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FOOD & DRINK
Wild mushroom tortellini magic at Wapping Wharf restaurant Tare
Gorgeous Iberian eatery Paco Tapas received its first star recently (image: Nick Hook)
Brown trout at Casamia (image: Dominika Scheibinger)
Best bib and tucker It’s been another brilliant 12 months for Bristol food. Melissa Blease catches up with some of those who’ve been blessed with the highest star-spangled approbation
T
he Michelin Guide – for which over 120 inspectors eat around 250 meals every year in over 40,000 restaurants and hotels scattered across three continents – is the indisputable upper-crust foodie bible, responsible for the star ratings and awards that can make (or break) the fortunes of the chefs working in the hottest kitchens in Europe. In last year’s announcements for the 2018-19 guide, Bristol’s food scene was elevated to stellar heights when both Bulrush and Paco Tapas were recipients of their first Michelin star. Meanwhile Casamia, Wilks and The Pony & Trap (which has held Michelin status for 11 years in Chew Magna) once more retained their onestar status, confirming Bristol as one of the UK’s foremost dining destinations. “With Casamia, we knew we had a Michelin inspector visiting us but we didn’t think it was going to happen,” says Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, looking back to when his restaurant was first awarded its star. “Jonray ran into the kitchen and let me read the ‘congratulations’ email; we were blown away. It was the pat on the back that we needed – we knew then that we were on the right track. We were struggling to pay bills and the response from the star really helped the business and transformed the restaurant, not only for that period of time but also for the future.” As for much younger project Paco Tapas... “When the announcement was made, I was like: WTF?” says Peter. “I couldn’t believe a tapas bar in Bristol had got a Michelin star! We thought; 66 THE BRISTOL MAGAZINE
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d’you know what, we might actually be getting this right! Paco is special, and challenges what a Michelin star restaurant has to be; it’s just incredible food and incredible produce.” Peter acknowledges that his awards have impacted on the food scene around him, too. “Michelin is so highly regarded around the world, and having the guide officially sanction the food scene in Bristol shows just how powerful that scene is. Showcasing what’s going on in the city brings Bristol into the category of food destination – people travel to dine here; it’s undoubtedly a big part of why they come.”
...Michelin connects you to a lovely network of other chefs and offers a platform like no other. It brings people who appreciate what you’re doing to your door in a way that no other accolade does...