Bath food review:Layout 4
19/12/12
15:25
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The Kilted Chef
7a Kingsmead Square, Bath, BA1 2AB. Tel: 01225 466688
REVIEW
WELCOME THE TARTAN ARMY
B
ath is well served for international cuisine, with restaurants representing Italian, French, Thai, Indian and even Peruvian styles of cooking – but now the city has its first Scottish restaurant, The Kilted Chef. In the kitchen is award-winning head chef Dougie Bonar, who brings from Edinburgh his passion for ingredients such as the best Scottish beef, fresh lobster, venison and that most Scottish of delicacies, haggis. He’s also a man of many talents, as we discovered during our first visit to the basement restaurant in Kingsmead Square which was formerly Mezzaluna, and before that the acclaimed Moody Goose. We hear that locals are already beating a path to Dougie’s door, partly because of his reputation and partly because word of mouth has spread the word that The Kilted Chef is offering something different. On the night we visited there was a couple on one table celebrating their wedding anniversary and requesting that the chef autograph their celebratory card. On the other side an enthusiastic pair were oohing and aahing their way through a seven course tasting menu and wine flight. It was clear that The Kilted Chef is already registering on the foodies’ radar, despite having only been open a couple of months. There were plenty of moments during our dinner that we did actually say ‘wow!’ as our plates arrived. A little amuse bouche of a piping hot cup of parsnip and sweet potato soup whet the appetite, along with tiny but densely flavoured smoked fish canapés. The warm bread rolls were homemade, and as the meal went on we learned that much of the fish served here is smoked by Dougie himself. He also makes his own haggis, although he also buys it from Edinburgh’s legendary Macsween, the kings of haggis making. A starter of risotto made with the finest smoked haddock and a soft poached egg, made John’s evening – it’s far superior to a similar dish I cook up at home, he pointed out, without malice. I enjoyed a little Somerset goat’s cheese, wrapped in a pancetta parcel, which was sweet and softly creamy, offset by a little blini with horseradish and a red pepper purée with a warm, spicy kick. For our main course we were tempted to try a whole lobster, smoked by the chef himself and served with citrus and fines 46 THEBATHMAGAZINE
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herbes butter, but we were in carnivorous mood, so John opted for a tender fillet steak served in a traditional Rossini style, quite rich but delicious. All main courses are served with vegetables and potatoes included on the large, white plates, which meant my simple courgette and asparagus were good companions to the venison with tiny haggis and black pudding fritters, and lifted by a piquant pink peppercorn sauce. This is food to treat yourself for a special occasion. Our bottle of wine was a very pleasing La Bastille Merlot at £18.50, from a very comprehensive list.
ATTENTION TO DETAIL: main picture, the interior at The Kilted Chef Top, haunch of Scottish venison Below, spun sugar is one of the little flourishes which pleases the eye
It was clear that The Kilted Chef is already ❝registering on the foodies’ radar despite having been open a couple of months ❞ The Kilted Chef offers diners a pre-theatre dinner deal, or a Sunday lunch option from £16.95 for two courses including coffee. The tasting menu, with wines, that our fellow diners were in raptures over, is £75. The a la carte menu, which we enjoyed, ranges from £6.55 to £11.50 for starters, £13.50 to £25.30 (for the lobster) for main courses – that includes the canapés and bread with homemade rosemary oil and unusual caramelised orange vinegar. I wanted to try one of Dougie’s desserts, as he has a selfconfessed sweet tooth and enjoys making elaborate puddings and even the petits four with the coffee are made by his fair hand. I asked Sue, who is the very knowledgable and friendly front-of-house manager, which would be the lightest pudding to try. She was right to recommend a made-in-the-moment sabayon with perfectly ripe mixed berries, served in a Martini glass with a 1960s beehive of beautifully spun sugar topping it off. It was a great combination of lightly creamy, tart fruit and candy brittle sweetness. John, not having a sweet tooth, was more than happy with a plate of homemade crackers, and five well kept cheeses. GMc We hit the high road home, replete and in good spirits. ■