The best of fine cooking grilling 2018

Page 1

THE BEST OF

Helpful Tips & Advice from the Pros

100+

Sizzling Recipes Fire Up Your Grill! Juicy Burgers & Steaks Saucy BBQ CHICKEN Smoky Ribs & Chops VEGETABLE

Mains & Sides AND

much more GRILLING 2018 Taunton Product #052127

www.finecooking.com

Miso-Marinated Grilled Beef, Chicken, and Vegetables, p. 37


©2018 Celebrity Cruises. All images of Celebrity EdgeSM are artistic renderings based on current development concepts, which are subject to change without notice. Celebrity Edge and Edge are trademarks of Celebrity Cruises. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador.

Explore the world without leaving your table.

Luminae at The Retreat—exclusive for Suite Class guests.

Introducing Celebrity Edge, a revolutionary new ship designed to expand every horizon. With globally inspired menus designed by a Michelin-starred chef, Celebrity Edge offers 29 distinct food and beverage experiences that stand apart from anything else at sea. Bookings now open. Availability limited. celebritycruises.com/edge | 1-800-CELEBRITY | Call your Travel Agent

Tuscan Restaurant—one of four main dining venues.


contents

THE BEST OF

GRILLING 2018, NO. 127

Grilling 20 32 42 52 p. 68

p. 23

p. 37

62 72 82

salads beef pork & lamb poultry seafood meatless mains sides

Charred Leeks with Caper-Herb Sauce, p. 85

www.finecooking.com 3

CAST IRON COOKING 2017

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

3


11

10

15

14 94 94 107

D E PA R T M E N T S 6 10

Welcome 10 Things You Didn’t Know You Could Smoke Add smoky flavor to everything from fruit to nuts.

12

90 Test Kitchen Tips, techniques, ingredients.

96

Credits

98

Nutrition

Easy Apps Serve these savory bites straight from the grill.

100 102

Recipe Index Last Bite Figs take on new toasty and sweet flavors after the heat hits their sugars and caramelizes them.

Pp 4

GRILLING 2018

Cover photography by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day.


Maille. Crafting Flavor Since 1747.


W E LC O M E

Sesame-Ginger Tofu and Shiitake Kebabs, p. 74

Cooking Outdoors warmer weather means that it’s time to take the cooking outside, and if you’re looking for knockout recipes, you’re in the right place. This special issue of Fine Cooking was designed to help you create delicious menus for the grill. Whether you prefer quick recipes—there are dozens here for steaks, chops, and chicken—or have time to invest in smoky ribs (p. 48) or jerk pork (p. 49), there’s something here for every occasion. We’ve also got company-worthy appetizers (pp. 12–16), spectacular meatless main courses (pp. 72–81), a guide to surprising ingredients you can smoke on the grill (pp. 10–11), and more. Happy grilling season! —The Fine Cooking Editors @finecooking @finecookingmag

6

GRILLING 2018



THE BEST OF

The Original Scoop

Pairs Best with America’s Favorite Scoop!

zeroll.com

(800) USA-5000

handle for smooth scooping and easy release. The choice of ice cream parlors and ice cream lovers since 1935!

Grilling Issue Editor Issue Art Directors Cover Art Director Issue Copy Editor Contributing Editor

Editorial Director Art Director Food Editor Senior Copy/ Production Editor Staff Photographer Senior Food Editor/Stylist Food Editor/ Test Kitchen Manager Administrative Assistant Test Kitchen Assistants

Sarah Opdahl Brittany Carlson Jodie Delohery Teresa Fernandes Diane Sinitsky Rebecca Freedman

Kathy Kingsley Teresa Fernandes Lisa Lahey Chris Hoelck Scott Phillips Ronne Day Diana Andrews Jessica Paoli Joan Velush William Stewart

Special Projects Senior Special Sarah Opdahl Projects Editor Associate Art Director Brittany Carlson FineCooking.com

Love fresh ingredients? This is for you... 200 Seasonally Inspired Recipes CookFresh Year Round celebrates simple seasonal eating with made-from-scratch recipes inspired by fresh ingredients at their peak. This boxed set of four petite books, each with 50 satisfying recipes, makes a great gift.

Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter! Cook Fresh Year-Round features 200 seasonal recipes in a boxed set of four petite books, one for each season.

Available at www.TauntonStore.com/cfyr

Taunton

Senior Web Producer Video Director Editors at Large Contributing Editors

Sarah Breckenridge Colin Russell Jennifer Armentrout Susie Middleton Abigail Johnson Dodge Rebecca Freedman Jill Silverman Hough (drinks) Kimberly Y. Masibay Nanette Maxim Tony Rosenfeld Joanne Smart Tanya Steel Molly Stevens

To contact us: Fine Cooking The Taunton Press 63 South Main St. PO Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 Email: fc@taunton.com Visit: finecooking.com Submit an article proposal: Write to Fine Cooking at the address above or Call: 800-309-0744 or Fax: 203-426-3434 Email: fc@taunton.com Subscribe/place an order: Visit finecooking.com/fcorder or call: 866-288-4208 9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri and 9am-7pm ET Sat Find out about Fine Cooking products: Visit finecooking.com/products Get help with online member services: Visit finecooking.com/customerservice Contact Fine Cooking customer service: Email us at customerservice@finecooking.com

Š The Taunton Press

Printed in the USA

8

GRILLING 2018


Publisher

Director Business Development, Partnership Marketing

John Boland 203-304-3769 jboland@finecooking.com Alina Light 203-304-3501 alight@finecooking.com

Midwest Account Director

Susan Welter 203-304-3894 swelter@finecooking.com

Northeast Account Director

Erin Rijo 203-304-3529 erijo@finecooking.com

West Coast Advertising Sales

Oak Media Group 323-493-2754 Cynthia Lapporte Cynthia@oakmedia group.com

Integrated Marketing Director

Robina Lewis

Marketing Manager

Bethany Sax

Member Audit Bureau of Circulation Single Copy Sales

To speak directly to a customer service professional: Call 866-288-4208 9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm ET Sat Sell Fine Cooking in your store: Call us toll-free at 866-452-5179, or email us at tradecs@taunton.com

La Baleine Coarse Sea Salt. Perfect for UXEV URDVWLQJ ¿ QLVKLQJ«DQG EULQJV RXW WKH WUXH WDVWH RI GHOLFLRXV JULOOHG IRRG ,W¶V QDWXUDOO\ FU\VWDOOL]HG E\ VXQ DQG VHD EUHH]HV LQ RXU H[FOXVLYH 0HGLWHUUDQHDQ SUHVHUYH SXUH 1R DGGLWLYHV

Advertise in Fine Cooking: Call 800-309-8940, or email us at fcads@taunton.com Mailing list: We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you would prefer that we not include your name, please visit: finecooking.com/privacy or call 866-288-4208 9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm ET Sat. The Taunton guarantee: If at any time you’re not completely satisfied with Fine Cooking, you can cancel your subscription and receive a full and immediate refund of the entire subscription price. No questions asked.

Copyright 2018 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc. Independent publishers since 1975 Founders, Paul & Jan Roman President & CEO CFO CTO SVP, Consumer Marketing VP, Controller VP, Human Resources SVP, Fine Cooking

SVP, Home & Construction

Professional Indoor ® Electric Grill Model 878

Delicious Grilled Taste, Year Round! " ! ! " " ! " ! " ! "

Dan McCarthy Mark Fernberg Brian Magnotta Paula Backer Robert Caldaroni Carol Marotti John Boland

Renee Jordan

Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online 4W\S E]]Re]`YW\U Â’ 4W\S 6][SPcWZRW\U BV`SORa Â’ 4W\S 5O`RS\W\U Â’ 4W\S 1]]YW\U taunton.com

Griddle Pan Accessory, sold separately

800-342-3255 chefschoice.com © 2018 Edgecraft Corporation

4 7 < 3 1 = = 9 7 < 5 1 = ;

9


THINGS

10

YOU DIDN’T KNOW YOU COULD

smoke

FOOD

WOOD

TEMP

SURFACE

TIME

SERVING SUGGESTIONS

PEACHES, halved, pitted

1 cup apple, hickory, or peach chips

200°F to 215°F

Grill grate

20 minutes cut side up, 10 minutes cut side down

In a salad or salsa; to accompany pork, duck, or ham; drizzled with caramel sauce over ice cream

CAPERS

½ cup apple or hickory chips

210°F to 225°F

Metal pie plate

30 minutes

As a garnish for bagels with cream cheese and smoked salmon; in deviled eggs; tossed with roasted vegetables

HARD-COOKED EGGS,

½ cup apple or maple chips

200°F to 215°F

Grill grate

20 minutes

In egg salad; for deviled eggs; in a Cobb or Niçoise salad

CHERRY OR GRAPE TOMATOES

½ cup apple chips

185°F to 200°F

Perforated grill pan

5 minutes

In a salad; in a Bloody Mary; in salsa; in gazpacho

POTATOES,

2 cups apple or hickory chips

210°F to 225°F

Grill grate

1 hour, then bake in a 325°F oven until tender

To accompany grilled meat or fish; in a potato salad; to make twice-baked potatoes; in soup

peeled, left whole

medium to large, whole, unpeeled, rubbed with butter and salt

Though most barbecue fans think of smoked meat, smoky flavor translates well to many things—cheese, shellfish, fruit, nuts, olives, capers. If you know how to smoke meat, you’ll find that the technique for smoking these ingredients is similar. Just follow the chart and instructions here to produce surprisingly delicious smoked snacks and accents to main dishes. WOOD Different types of wood add distinct flavors and varying levels of smokiness. Maple and alder are mild and sweet. Apple, cherry, and peach are also mild and sweet but with fruity notes. Hickory adds a stronger flavor, which is great with foods like capers and nuts. Adjust the amount of wood chips to control the level of smoke.

Besides the type of wood, another factor that affects the smokiness

10

GRILLING 2018

of the food is how many chips you use. Foods that absorb smoke more readily or that will smoke for a short time need fewer, while those with long cook times or barriers preventing absorption, like skins or shells, need more. Soak the chips for about 30 minutes and then drain before using. Otherwise, they will burn rather than smolder and smoke. TEMPERATURE Smoking is achieved over low, indirect heat. Just how low that heat should be depends on whether you want the food to cook (like scallops and oysters) or just soften slightly to absorb the smoke. If you’re smoking a melty ingredient like cheese, the temperature should be only hot enough to ignite the wood chips. This is called cold-smoking.


Add smoky flavor to everything from fruit to nuts. FOOD

WOOD

TEMP

SURFACE

TIME

SERVING SUGGESTIONS

OYSTERS, on the half shell

1 cup alder or apple chips

235°F to 250°F

Grill grate

18 minutes

As an hors d’oeuvre with butter and lemon; in oyster stew; in a cream cheese–based dip

HARD CHEESE, such as Monterey Jack, Cheddar, or Gruyère

1 cup apple or cherry chips

85°F to 100°F

Rack or perforated grill pan set over a pan of ice

1½ hours

On sandwiches; in macaroni and cheese; in a fondue; in cheese sauce for broccoli or cauliflower

OLIVES, green or black, unpitted

1 cup apple or maple chips

200°F to 215°F

Perforated grill pan

20 minutes

Stuffed with blue cheese or anchovies; in a martini; in puttanesca sauce; in tuna or chicken salad

SEA SCALLOPS, patted dry

1 cup cherry and ½ cup apple chips

285°F to 300°F

Grill grate

5 minutes per side

On bruschetta; in seafood salad; tossed with pasta; on a tomato or spinach salad; with a bacon beurre blanc

NUTS, such as pecans or walnuts, whole, shelled

1 cup hickory chips

210°F to 225°F

Metal pie plate

2 hours

On a cheese plate; tossed in vegetable dishes and salads; chopped to coat goat cheese for an hors d’oeuvre

For a charcoal grill, ignite a chimney starter full of lump charcoal and burn until the edges of the coals look ashy. Carefully spread the coals over half of the charcoal grate. (If you’re cold-smoking, ignite half a chimney. Use three coals and leave the rest in the chimney set on bricks.) Close the lid to let the coals burn down to the desired temperature, monitoring with a probe thermometer stuck through the air vent if your grill doesn’t have one built in. Scatter the wood chips on the coals. For a gas grill, ignite one of the burners and close the lid. Let the grill heat up to the desired temperature, adjusting the burner setting as needed, and then add the wood chips. If your grill has a built-in smoker box, use it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If

not, aftermarket smoker boxes are available, or you can wrap the soaked chips in a foil packet with lots of holes poked on top and place it directly on the lit burner, under the grate. SURFACE Once the chips are smoking, put the food on the section of the grill that doesn’t have coals or a lit burner under it. Items that are large enough not to fall through the grate can go directly on it. For smaller items, use a perforated grill pan to keep the food from falling through the grate while allowing smoke to circulate. For foods so small that they would fall through a perforated pan, use a metal pie plate. TIME Cover the grill and smoke according to the chart above. Try this method once, and you’ll see how easy it is.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

11


tomato and olive pizzettas with fennel seeds and aged goat cheese

12

GRILLING 2018


TA K E I T TO T H E G R I L L

fresh & fast

Easy Apps Serve these savory bites straight from the grill. It’s time to plan for a summer’s worth of memorable backyard barbecues. Want a surefire way to impress your guests? Turn on the grill right away and fill platters with tasty smoke-kissed appetizers. Try flavorful stuffed endives, take bruschetta to the next level with grilled toppings, or make an ultimate crowd pleaser, such as grilled sliders or mini-pizzas. Start up the grill early at your next cookout; you’ll be glad you did.

tomato and olive pizzettas with fennel seeds and aged goat cheese You can find pizza dough in the grocery store, or try your favorite pizzeria—most will sell their dough. Sambuca or Pernod makes a nice sweet contrast with the salty cheese, and it brings out the flavor of the fennel. Serves 6 to 8; yields 16 to 18 mini pizzas Flour for the work surface 1 lb. pizza dough Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. fennel seeds, coarsely chopped 1 1-inch-thick slice Bûcheron (about 6 oz.), cut into 36 thin wedges (if the cheese crumbles, let it warm to room temperature), or a log of fresh goat cheese, cut into thin rounds 14 pitted Kalamata olives, quartered 18 cherry or grape tomatoes, sliced into ¼-inch rounds, ends discarded Crushed red pepper flakes 1½ tsp. sambuca or Pernod

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire with the coals banked to one side to provide a cooler area on the grill.

On a well-floured surface, roll out the pizza dough with a rolling pin until it’s 1 8 inch thick. If the dough is very elastic and resists rolling, cover it with plastic and let it rest for about 5 minutes. You may have to repeat this step a few times until the dough is relaxed and willing to roll. Using a 3-inch ring cutter, cut the dough into 16 to 18 rounds. Discard the excess dough. Brush the top of the dough rounds with oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the fennel seeds, pressing gently to make sure they adhere. Transfer the rounds to a baking sheet, fennel side up. Working with half of the pizzettas at a time, grill them fennel side down (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill) for 1 minute. Check the pizzettas: If they have puffed up, flatten them with a metal spatula. Brush the floured sides (which are facing up) with oil. Grill until the bottom is nicely browned and crisp, about 1 more minute. Loosen

with a metal spatula, if necessary, and return the pizzettas, grilled side up, to the baking sheet. (If using a gas grill, turn the heat down to medium.) Working quickly, top each with 2 wedges of Bûcheron, 3 olive pieces, 3 tomato slices, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Use a small spoon to sprinkle each pizzetta with a few drops of sambuca or Pernod. Return the pizzettas to the mediumheat gas grill or to the cooler side of a charcoal grill. Continue grilling, covered, until the pizzettas are crisp and the cheese is melted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a platter and serve while you repeat with the remaining dough rounds. Make ahead: The pizzetta toppings can be prepared up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated. The dough can be rolled and cut up to 1 hour ahead and refrigerated, covered.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

13


GR F RE I LSLHI N&GFA GU ST I D E TO A P P E T I Z E R S

grilled onion and sage flatbread Serve this easy-to-make flatbread as a hearty appetizer or for lunch or dinner with a salad and soup. Serves 8 1 large red or yellow onion, trimmed, peeled, and sliced crosswise into ½-inch-thick rounds (6 slices) 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. pizza dough, at room temperature 12 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped

grilled tomatoes with burrata and parsley salad A toasted bread-and-parsley salad adds crunch and bright, fresh flavor to this riff on Caprese salad. Serve with simple grilled steak or pork chops for an easy summer meal. Serves 6 3 large just-ripe tomatoes 2 thin slices rustic bread 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 8 oz. burrata, torn into large pieces 2 Tbs. drained, chopped capers

Brush the tomatoes and bread all over with 2 Tbs. of the oil. Season with salt and pepper. Grill the tomatoes, cut side down, flipping once, until just charred, 6 to 8 minutes. Grill the bread, flipping once, until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Break the bread into small pieces over a medium bowl. Add the parsley, lemon juice, and remaining 1 Tbs. oil. Toss to combine. Top each tomato half with pieces of burrata. Divide the parsley among the tomatoes, and top with the capers. Serve immediately.

14

GRILLING 2018

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the onion slices with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the onion slices until grill marks form on one side, about 7 to 8 minutes. Flip the slices and continue to grill until tender, about 7 to 8 minutes more. Stack the onions on a large piece of foil, wrap the onions up, and let them sit for 10 minutes to soften further. Coarsely chop the onions. Generously coat a 9×13-inch rimmed baking sheet with oil. Oil your hands, then evenly press the pizza dough onto the sheet all the way to the corners. Using your knuckles, make dimpled depressions in the top of the dough. In a small bowl, mix 2 Tbs. of the oil with 1 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. water; brush the dough with the mixture. In a medium bowl, toss the sage and onion with 1 Tbs. of the oil. Top the dough with the onion mixture. Bake in the center of a 450°F oven until the flatbread is browned and the onions are slightly browned on the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, slice, and serve.


grilled endive with gorgonzola and pecans This appetizer hits all the right notes: charred yet fresh, with a hint of bitter tempered by sweet, and creamy with just the right amount of crunch. Make sure your grill is hot when you begin; endives contain a lot of moisture and will end up soft and wilted instead of crisp without the right amount of heat. Serves 4 3 Tbs. olive oil; more for the grill 4 large heads endive (about 1½ lb.) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup apple jelly 4 oz. Gorgonzola, crumbled (about 1 cup) 2 oz. coarsely chopped candied pecans (about ½ cup)

grilled vegetable bruschetta Grilled fennel makes this vegetable combination sing. When served over large slices of grilled bread, it’s a meal; serve it on smaller crostini for appetizer portions. Serves 6

Prepare a medium-high (350°F to 375°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Clean and lightly oil the grill grate. Cut the endives in half lengthwise, through the root end. Brush the endives on all sides with the oil, and sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Grill, cut side down, flipping once, until the endives are tender, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a platter cut side up and tent with foil. In a small saucepan, cook the apple jelly with 1 Tbs. water over low heat, whisking often, until smooth and syrupy, about 3 minutes. Scatter the Gorgonzola over the endives, drizzle with the apple glaze, and sprinkle with the pecans. Serve immediately.

4 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and quartered 1 head fennel, cut into 6 or 8 wedges 1 lb. small zucchini, halved lengthwise 6 Roma or 3 larger tomatoes, cored 6 large scallions, trimmed to leave 3 inches green ½ cup olive oil; more as needed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 slices crusty Italian bread, 1 inch thick 2 cloves garlic, halved 1 medium bunch fresh basil, leaves washed, dried, and sliced Juice of ½ lemon 1 3 cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Toss the vegetables with the oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill all the vegetables, turning occasionally, until tender and slightly charred. As the vegetables are done, transfer them to a cutting board, chop into chunks, and tip into a large bowl, including any juices. Lightly brush the bread with more olive oil and grill for a few minutes on each side. Rub with the cut garlic cloves. Add the basil to the bowl of chopped vegetables, squeeze in some lemon juice, drizzle on a few more tablespoons of olive oil, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss again and serve with the grilled garlic bread and grated cheese on the side for sprinkling.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

15


F R E S H & FA S T

grilled zucchini and goat cheese roll-ups Make these ahead, refrigerate them if you like, and broil them briefly before serving. Serve with a firstcourse green salad or as a side to grilled meat, or as part of an antipasto. Yields 8 to 10 roll-ups 3 small zucchini, cut into ¼-inch-thick lengthwise strips 3 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. olive oil 3 oz. goat cheese, at room temperature 1 8 tsp. kosher salt 1 Tbs. finely chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, well drained Heaping ½ tsp. fresh thyme, chopped 2 Tbs. freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

grilled sliders Mini burgers are a fun addition to the menu; serve them with a variety of cheese and toppings. Yields 12 mini burgers; serves 4 as a main course, or 6 to 12 as an appetizer 2 lb. 80% lean ground chuck, or 1½ lb. 80% lean ground chuck plus 8 oz. 90% lean ground sirloin Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil cooking spray ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 medium shallots, finely chopped 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce ½ tsp. granulated onion 1 package soft white party rolls Condiments of your choice

Place the ground beef in a medium bowl and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Using your hands, gently mix the seasonings with the meat. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray. Using a 2-inch biscuit cutter as your form, make 12 mini burgers. Make sure that you put a thumbprint indention in the center of each one. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 1 hour.

16

GRILLING 2018

Meanwhile, combine the butter, shallots, Worcestershire, and granulated onion in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate if it’s going to be longer than an hour before you grill, but you want this butter to be soft and at room temperature when using. Oil the grill racks. Heat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes. Split the party rolls in half and put them, cut side down, on the grill. Toast for about 2 minutes. As you take them off, smear them with the butter on the insides. Place on a platter and tent with foil. Place the burgers on the grill and grill for about 3 minutes. Turn and continue grilling for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to a platter. Add one burger to each roll and serve with your favorite condiments.

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Brush the zucchini strips with 3 Tbs. oil and grill for 2 minutes per side. In a bowl, combine the goat cheese, salt, sun-dried tomatoes, 1 tsp. oil, and thyme. Spread 1 heaping tsp. of the filling thinly over one side of each grilled zucchini strip (use a mini spatula or your fingers to spread). Roll up the zucchini (not too tightly; this is more like folding), and put them on a baking sheet lined with parchment or foil. Refrigerate if not using within an hour, but bring back to room temperature before broiling. Heat the broiler. Sprinkle with a little grated cheese and brown under the broiler, about 1 minute.


hrimp S

ROSEMARY

SKEWERS

THINK OUTSIDE T H E B OT T L E FIND THIS AND OTHER INNOVATIVE RECIPES USING OUR EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL ON COLAVITA.COM

a truste ami ran facebook.com/ColavitaOliveOil

pinterest.com/ColavitaEvoo

youtube.com/ColavitaOliveOil

@ColavitaEVOO


A DV E R T I S E M E N T

DINNER

ON THE DECK WITH After a busy weekday, it’s so nice to cook and enjoy easy, seasonal meals outdoors. Summer’s long evenings provide the perfect opportunity to linger in the backyard over a flavorful meal and a glass or two of excellent wine. Just fire up the grill for the fish, whip together a delicious topping, open a bottle of Edna Valley Vineyard’s Chardonnay, and supper is served.

GRILLED HALIBUT WITH BROWN BUTTER SHALLOT REMOULADE Serves 4 2 Tbs. unsalted butter ¼ cup minced shallot 1 large egg 4 tsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup canola or vegetable oil 3 Tbs. finely chopped cornichons 1 Tbs. chopped capers 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill 1 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon ¼ tsp. smoked paprika 1½ Tbs. olive oil; more for brushing the grill Four 1¼-inch-thick halibut steaks (about 8 oz. each) Microgreens, for garnish In a small skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the shallots, raise the heat to medium, and cook until the shallots are translucent and browned and the butter has a nutty aroma, about 3 minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg, lemon juice, ¾ tsp. salt, and a few grinds of black pepper in a bowl until well combined. Combine

the oils and drizzle them into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. The sauce should be shiny and thick. Fold in the shallots, cornichons, capers, herbs, and paprika, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Generously coat both sides of the halibut with the olive oil and season both sides with salt and pepper. Let the halibut sit at room temperature for 15 minutes while the grill heats. Grill the halibut steaks directly over the heat source (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), without touching, until they have good grill marks, about 4 minutes. Flip the steaks and grill until the second sides have good grill marks and the fish is done to your liking, another 2 to 4 minutes. (Check for doneness by slicing into one of the thicker pieces.) Drag a generous spoonful of the remoulade on each of four plates, place the fillets on top, and garnish with a few microgreens. Serve with the remaining remoulade. MAKE-AHEAD TIP

The remoulade can be made up to one day ahead and refrigerated in a covered container.

C H A R D O N N AY Edna Valley Vineyard is renowned for coaxing layered and complex flavors from their grapes. Acclaimed for their deep heritage working with Chardonnay, Edna Valley Vineyard’s Central Coast Chardonnay begins with bright aromas of lime blossom and quince. On the palate, layers of white peach and apricot intertwine with notes of pineapple and cinnamon. A lively acidity and creamy, luscious mouthfeel create a perfectly balanced expression of Chardonnay.



greek spinach salad with grilled flap steak and marinated feta, p. 22


salads 22

greek spinach salad with grilled flap steak and marinated feta

23

grilled peach and chicken salad with fresh mint vinaigrette

24

fattoush-ish bread salad

24

grilled shrimp salad with anchovy-yogurt dressing

25

grilled potato and escarole salad

26

grilled potato, salmon, and lentil salad with mustard cream sauce

31

thai watercress and steak salad


SALADS

greek spinach salad with grilled flap steak and marinated feta Grilled steak turns a Greek salad into a substantial dish, while marinating the feta in a mixture of spicy chile flakes, briny capers, bright lemon, and herbs adds a big punch of flavor. Serve with grilled pita or crusty bread rubbed with fresh garlic to round out the meal. (See the photo on p. 20.) Serves 4 5½ Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 3 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 1 tsp. dried 2 tsp. red-wine vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. beef flap meat, cut into pieces of even thickness, if necessary 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 Tbs. capers, rinsed and chopped 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme ¼ tsp. crushed red chile flakes 7 oz. feta (preferably Greek), cut into small cubes (about 1½ cups) 5 oz. baby spinach (about 5 lightly packed cups) 2 mini cucumbers, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise 1½ cups cherry tomatoes (preferably a mix of colors and shapes), halved ½ cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved

In a medium bowl, whisk 3 Tbs. of the oil with the garlic, oregano, vinegar, ¼ tsp. salt, and a few grinds pepper. Add the steaks and turn to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for up to 6 hours. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the remaining 2½ Tbs. oil, the parsley, capers, lemon juice, thyme, and chile flakes. Add the feta and stir gently to coat. Marinate at room temperature for up to 1 hour or in the refrigerator for up to 6 hours. Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Remove the steaks from the marinade and pat dry. Grill, turning every 2 minutes, until cooked to your liking, 6 to 8 minutes for medium (140°F). Transfer to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Thinly slice the steak against the grain, then season lightly with salt. Put the spinach, cucumbers, tomatoes, and olives in a large bowl. Drizzle all of the marinade from the feta over the salad, using a spatula to hold back the feta (it’s OK if a few pieces fall in). Season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Arrange on a serving platter or divide among 4 dinner plates. Scatter the steak and feta over the salad, and serve.

22

GRILLING 2018


grilled peach and chicken salad with fresh mint vinaigrette

pitting peaches Occasionally peaches can be stubborn to pit. When the peach is halved, it’s easiest to remove the pit by loosening one end of the peach with your finger or the tip of a knife. If the pit doesn’t come free, don’t force it. Instead, cut off a few sections from the half. You will then be able to wiggle the pit free.

Stone fruits are excellent candidates for the grill because they keep their shape even as their sugars caramelize in the heat. Nectarines would be just as nice as peaches, so use what’s looking best; a handful of sugar snap peas would add even more color and some crunch. It’s your choice whether to peel your peaches or leave the skins on; they will soften slightly on the grill. Serves 4 FOR THE SALAD 2 8-oz. boneless, skinless chicken breasts 4 tsp. olive oil; more for the grill Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 medium peaches (about 1 lb. total), cut in half and pits removed 1 small English cucumber, cut in half and thinly sliced 3 Tbs. finely chopped red onions (about ¼ onion) FOR THE VINAIGRETTE ¼ cup finely chopped fresh mint ¼ cup white-wine vinegar 1 to 2 Tbs. granulated sugar (depending on the sweetness of the peaches) 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil ¼ tsp. kosher salt 1 8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup fresh mint leaves, torn into small pieces 4 handfuls salad greens (optional) MAKE THE SALAD

Place the chicken breasts between two pieces of waxed paper or parchment and pound until they are about ½ inch thick. Rub all over with 2 tsp. of the oil, and season both sides generously with salt and pepper. Heat the grill to medium, brush with oil, and grill the chicken until it’s just cooked through but still juicy, 6 to 9 minutes total (check by cutting into a corner). Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Toss the peach halves in the remaining 2 tsp. oil. Place them cut side down on the grill, and cook until slightly softened and nice grill marks form, 2 to 3 minutes; turn over and cook for another 2 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board. When the chicken and peaches are cool enough to handle, cut the chicken on an angle into ¼-inch slices and cut the peaches into ¼-inch wedges or chunks. Place in a bowl with the cucumbers and onions. MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE

Put the mint, vinegar, sugar, lemon juice, oil, salt, and pepper in a food processor and process until smooth. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the chicken mixture and toss gently to coat. Cover and refrigerate the salad until chilled and the flavors have married, at least 30 minutes. Just before serving, toss with the torn mint leaves and serve alone or on a bed of fresh greens.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

23


SALADS

fattoush-ish bread salad Crumbled feta, red onion, fresh mint, olives, and pita give this bread salad a Mediterranean feel. Serves 6 to 8 ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. red-wine vinegar 1 tsp. minced garlic Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup thinly sliced red onion 8 oz. pita bread or other flatbread, such as naan 1¼ lb. ripe beefsteak tomatoes 1 lb. ripe tomatoes of your choice 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced (about 1 cup) 3 oz. feta, crumbled (about 1 cup) ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh mint ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 3 cup pitted black or green olives, quartered lengthwise

grilled shrimp salad with anchovy-yogurt dressing Greek yogurt adds a welcome acidity to this dish and complements the deep flavors of grilled shrimp and potatoes. Serves 4

2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh oregano Pinch of sumac (optional)

In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, garlic, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Add the onion and stir to combine. Heat a broiler or a gas or charcoal grill to medium high. Brush the pita with olive oil on both sides, and season lightly with salt. Broil or grill the bread, flipping once, until nicely toasted, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer the bread to a cutting board, then tear or cut into ¾- to 1-inch pieces. Cut the tomatoes into pieces from ¾ to 1 inch, and transfer to a large bowl. Toss the tomatoes with the dressing and a good pinch of salt, and let sit for 5 minutes. Toss the bread, cucumber, feta, mint, parsley, olives, and oregano with the tomatoes. Let sit, tossing occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve topped a sprinkling of sumac, if you like.

8 10-inch wooden skewers Vegetable oil for the grill ½ lb. fingerling potatoes, scrubbed Kosher salt ½ lb. green beans, trimmed ½ lb. wax beans, trimmed 1 lb. extra-jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per lb.), peeled and deveined ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. minced garlic 2 to 3 anchovy fillets ¾ cup whole-milk plain Greek yogurt 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1 3 cup chopped fresh parsley

Soak the skewers in water for at least 30 minutes. Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) grill fire. Brush clean and oil the grate. Put the potatoes in a large pot of cold salted water and bring to a boil; cook until just tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Boil the green and wax beans until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes, and drain in a colander. Meanwhile, toss the shrimp with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil and ¼ tsp. each salt and pepper, then thread 4 or 5 on two parallel skewers held about ½ inch apart;

24

GRILLING 2018

leave space between the shrimp for even grilling. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to grill. In a small skillet, heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil with the garlic and anchovies over medium-low heat, mashing the anchovies with a fork until they disintegrate. Continue to cook until the garlic is fragrant but not colored, and the oil starts to shimmer, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the yogurt, ¼ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Grill the skewered shrimp until just cooked through, 1½ to 2 minutes per side. Halve the potatoes lengthwise, and toss with the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil. Grill the potatoes, cut side down, until grill marks form, about 2 minutes. Mound the beans on a platter or divide among 4 dinner plates. Remove the shrimp from the skewers and arrange the shrimp and potatoes around the beans. Whisk the lemon juice into the yogurt dressing, thinning with up to 1 Tbs. water, if needed, to make it easier to drizzle. Drizzle the yogurt dressing over the salads and sprinkle with the parsley. Pass the remaining dressing at the table.


grilled potato and escarole salad Aromatic basil pesto ties together grilled potatoes, escarole, and red onion. Serve with barbecued chicken or grilled sausages, and it will be the only side you need. Red-skin potatoes look good in this salad, but you could use yellow potatoes instead. Serves 6 as a starter or side dish 2 lb. medium red potatoes, sliced ¼ inch thick Kosher salt 1 3 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed 1 3 cup red-wine vinegar 2 tsp. honey Freshly ground black pepper 1 large or 2 small heads escarole, cut into 6 wedges total 1 large red onion, cut crosswise into 6 slices ½ cup basil pesto (homemade or store-bought) 2 jarred or fresh roasted red bell peppers, cut into ¼-inch strips 3 Tbs. toasted pine nuts

Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 4-quart saucepan, and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook for 3 minutes; the potatoes will still be a little hard in the center. Drain and rinse with cold water until cool. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet to continue cooling and drying until you’re ready to grill; they can sit for up to 2 hours at room temperature or up to 8 hours covered in the refrigerator. In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, and honey. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss the escarole with 1 3 cup of the vinaigrette, then brush both sides of the onion with some of the vinaigrette. Let sit for 10 minutes. Pat the potatoes dry with paper towels, if necessary. Brush both sides with oil and season well with salt and a little pepper.

Prepare a mediumhigh (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Grill the escarole cut side down without flipping until nicely marked, 4 to 5 minutes. Grill the onion, flipping once, until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Grill the potatoes, flipping once, until tender and nicely marked, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to a medium bowl and toss with enough of the pesto to coat well. Arrange the potatoes, onion, escarole, and peppers on a platter or divide among plates. Dollop with some of the remaining pesto, and sprinkle with the pine nuts. Serve any remaining vinaigrette and pesto on the side.


SALADS

grilled potato, salmon, and lentil salad with mustard cream sauce Here is a main-dish salad with flavor that builds with every bite. The potatoes are soaked in wine and broth, and they balance the rich salmon beautifully. But it’s the dreamy, creamy dressing that will have you swooning. Enjoy the dish alfresco with a chilled glass of wine, and feel all your worries slip away. Serves 6 as a main course FOR THE LENTILS 3 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

sliced ½ inch thick Kosher salt

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 3 cup dry white wine

1 small bay leaf

1 3 cup lower-salt chicken broth

1 Tbs. olive oil ½ cup finely diced carrot ½ cup finely diced celery

1 Tbs. finely chopped shallot 12 oz. salmon fillet, preferably skin on

½ cup finely diced leek (white and light-green parts only)

2 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed

½ cup French green lentils (lentils du Puy)

1 oz. microgreens or baby greens, for garnish (optional)

2 cups lower-salt chicken broth or water Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE MUSTARD CREAM 1 cup crème fraîche 2 Tbs. Dijon mustard 2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard 1½ tsp. honey 1 tsp. red-wine vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE POTATOES AND SALMON 2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes,

26

GRILLING 2018

Freshly ground black pepper

COOK THE LENTILS

Bundle the parsley, thyme, and bay leaf in a square of cheesecloth secured with kitchen twine. Heat the olive oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, and leek, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the lentils, chicken broth, 1 tsp. salt, ½ tsp. pepper, and the herb bundle. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until the lentils are just tender, about 25 minutes.

Drain and then spread the lentils on a rimmed baking sheet to cool quickly. (The lentils may be cooked up to 2 days ahead; cover and refrigerate. Return to room temperature before serving.) MAKE THE MUSTARD CREAM

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche, both mustards, the honey, and vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. PARCOOK THE POTATOES

Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 4-quart saucepan, and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook for 5 minutes; the potatoes will still be a little hard in the center. Drain and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle the wine and chicken broth over the hot potatoes and sprinkle with the shallot. Let sit, turning once or twice, for at least 30 minutes and

up to 8 hours; cover and refrigerate if holding more than 2 hours. GRILL THE POTATOES AND THE SALMON

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the salmon generously with the 2 Tbs. oil, season lightly with salt and pepper, and grill, flipping once, until barely opaque in the center, 6 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, brush the potatoes with olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Grill, flipping once, until tender and nicely marked, 5 to 7 minutes. SERVE

Flake the salmon into large pieces. Spread half of the mustard sauce on a large platter or divide it among plates. Arrange the potatoes, salmon, and lentils on the sauce. Top with the microgreens, and serve with the remaining mustard cream on the side.


Fruit brings the flavor to the party Wow family and friends at your next cookout with irresistible recipes featuring DOLEÂŽ Canned Fruits and Juices. Whether you stir sweet, flavorful juices into refreshing drinks or take savory dishes to a new level with smoke-kissed, caramelized fruit, DOLE Canned Fruits and Juices are sure to please the crowd.

ZE

HAWAIIAN LUAU PUNCH

Pre

2

HAWAIIAN-STYLE BURGERS


BBQ PORK TENDERLOIN WITH SWEET HOT PINEAPPLE SALSA Prep time: 20 minutes Makes: 6 servings

HAWAIIAN LUAU PUNCH

2 tsp. paprika

Prep time: 5 minutes Makes: 24 servings

1 tsp. garlic powder

1 can (46 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Juice, chilled ¾ cup cranberry juice, chilled

1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 liter ginger ale, chilled

2 whole pork tenderloins (about 1½ lb.), silver skin trimmed

2 limes, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. olive oil

1 cup strawberries, thinly sliced

1 can (20 oz.) DOLE® Crushed Pineapple, drained

1 can (6 oz.) frozen limeade concentrate

1 orange, thinly sliced Combine the juices, limeade, and ginger ale in large punch bowl. Add lime, strawberry, and orange slices. Serve over ice.

1 cup prepared chunky applesauce ½ cup chopped sweet white onion 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

HAWAIIAN-STYLE BURGERS Prep time: 25 minutes Makes: 4 servings 1 lb. lean ground beef ¼ cup chopped red onion ¼ tsp. garlic salt 1 8 tsp. ground black pepper ¼ cup teriyaki baste and glaze 1 can (8 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Slices, drained 4 slices Swiss cheese 4 onion rolls Leaf lettuce (optional) Heat grill to medium-high. Combine ground beef, red onion, garlic salt, pepper, and 2 Tbs. teriyaki sauce in large bowl until well blended. Shape beef into 4 burgers, 4 inches round and ½ inch thick. Grill burgers and pineapple uncovered 5 minutes; turn. Brush with remaining teriyaki sauce; grill 5 minutes or until burgers are done. Top burgers with 1 slice cheese and grilled pineapple slices before removing from grill. Serve on onion rolls with lettuce, if desired.

1 to 2 Tbsp. jalapeño chiles, chopped Heat grill to medium. Mix paprika, garlic powder, salt, and pepper. Rub onto pork, then drizzle with oil. Grill 20 to 25 minutes, turning several times, until well browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part registers 155 to 160° F. Transfer to a clean platter; let stand 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare salsa: mix all remaining ingredients in medium serving bowl. Let stand until ready to serve. Carve pork into ½-inch slices; serve with salsa.


ALWAYS SUMMER PUNCH Prep time: 5 minutes Makes: 24 servings 1 can (46 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Juice, chilled 5 cups cran-raspberry juice cocktail 5 cups peach nectar 1 package (16 oz.) frozen DOLE Sliced Peaches 1 package (16 oz.) frozen DOLE Raspberries 1 cup peach schnapps 1 lime, thinly sliced Combine all ingredients in large punch bowl. Serve over ice.

GRILLED CHICKEN MANDARIN SALAD Prep time: 15 minutes

Makes: 3 servings

¾ cup bottled poppy-seed dressing, divided

3 boneless chicken breast halves 1 package (9 oz.) lettuce and radicchio salad blend 1 can (15 oz.) DOLE® Mandarin Oranges, drained 1 cup frozen DOLE Sliced Strawberries, partially thawed ¼ cup toasted almonds, slivered (optional)

Remove ¼ cup dressing for chicken. Grill or broil chicken 5 to 10 minutes on each side or until chicken is no longer pink in center, brushing occasionally with ¼ cup reserved dressing. Discard any remaining dressing. Cut chicken crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices. Line 3 individual plates with salad blend. Arrange chicken, mandarin oranges, and strawberries over salad. Sprinkle almonds over salad, if desired. Serve with remaining dressing.


PINEAPPLE BLUEBERRY SPARKLER Prep: 5 minutes

Makes: 1 serving

1 oz. frozen DOLE® Blueberries, partially thawed 3 oz. DOLE Pineapple Juice 3 oz. cranberry-raspberry flavored sparkling water Add blueberries and juice to glass. Muddle blueberries. Add sparkling water. Stir.

ZESTY PINEAPPLE SLAW Prep time: 20 minutes Makes: 10 servings 1 can (20 oz.) DOLE® Crushed Pineapple, drained 2 medium red apples, cored, chunked 1 package (14 oz.) coleslaw salad blend

¼ cup bottled poppy-seed dressing Combine pineapple, apples, coleslaw blend, and raisins in large bowl. Pour dressing over salad and toss well. Chill 30 minutes before serving.

1 cup DOLE Seedless Raisins

SUNNY MARGARITAS Prep: 5 minutes

Makes: 8 to 10 servings

1 can (46 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Juice, chilled 1 2-liter bottle lemon-lime soda, chilled 1 can (12 oz.) frozen pink lemonade concentrate, thawed 1 lemon, thinly sliced 2 limes, thinly sliced 1 cup tequila (optional) Kosher salt Combine pineapple juice, soda, lemonade, lemon slices, lime slices, and tequila (if using) in a large punch bowl. Serve in salt-rimmed glasses.


SALADS

thai watercress and steak salad A bright, tangy, fruity Thai dressing enhances the peppery bite of raw watercress. If you happen to have some leftover grilled steak, feel free to substitute it here. Serves 4 1 lb. skirt steak or flank steak 1 Tbs. canola or other neutral oil Kosher salt 2 Tbs. fish sauce 1½ Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. dark brown sugar ½ jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped ¾ cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes ¾ cup diced fresh pineapple ½ cup thinly sliced red onion

Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire or heat a grill pan on the stove over medium-high heat. Brush the steak with the oil and season all over with ¼ tsp. salt. Grill the steak, turning occasionally, until cooked to your liking, about 3 minutes per side for medium rare (125°F). Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes (if the steak is too hot, it will wilt the greens).

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, and jalapeño. Thinly slice the steak against the grain. In a large bowl, combine the steak, tomatoes, pineapple, and onion. Add the dressing and toss to combine. Just before serving, put the watercress on a platter, lightly salt, and toss. Top with the steak mixture and peanuts, and serve.

1 large bunch watercress (about 7 oz.), stemmed and torn into bite-size pieces ¼ cup chopped unsalted peanuts

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

31


grilled hamburgers, p. 34


beef 34

grilled hamburgers

34

grilled skirt steak with adobo butter

35

boneless barbecue short ribs

36

korean flank steak tacos

37

miso-marinated grilled beef, chicken, and vegetables

37

sake-marinated steak

38

marinated steak with grilled scallions

39

indonesian beef satay

40

red chile–coriander rib-eye steaks

41

argentine-style burger


BEEF

grilled hamburgers Classic and simple burgers make an ideal summer supper. Serve with favorite toppings. (See the photo on p. 32.) Serves 4 ¾ lb. ground chuck ¾ lb. ground sirloin 1 tsp. coarse salt ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. olive oil

Light a charcoal or gas grill: If using charcoal, arrange the coals in an even layer and light one side so that the fire will walk across the coals and will be hotter on one side than the other. If using gas, set one burner to medium high and the other to medium low. When the grill is hot, clean the grate by rubbing it with a grill brush and a wadded-up paper towel. Hand-shape ¾-inch-thick patties from half ground chuck and half ground sirloin; season well with salt and pepper. Brush with the oil. Grill directly over medium-hot coals, turning once; don’t flatten with a spatula. Grill 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium rare; 5 to 7 minutes per side for medium.

grilled skirt steak with adobo butter This spicy adobo butter is so good that it’s hard to believe it’s made in about a minute with just a few ingredients. Though any steak cut would benefit from it, skirt steak’s textured surface cradles the melted butter, delivering it with every bite. Serves 4 to 6 1 7-oz. can chipotles in adobo sauce 1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro Kosher salt 1½ lb. skirt steak, trimmed and halved crosswise 1 Tbs. canola or vegetable oil 2 limes, cut into wedges

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. In a blender or small food processor, purée the chiles with their sauce. In a small bowl and using a fork, mash the butter with 1 Tbs. of the purée, the cilantro, and ½ tsp. salt until combined.

34

GRILLING 2018

Rub the steak all over with the oil and another 1 Tbs. of the chipotle purée (freeze the rest for future use). Season all over with 1 tsp. salt. Grill the steak, flipping once, until cooked to your liking, 5 to 8 minutes for medium rare (130°F). Transfer to a platter, top with about half of the butter, tent with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Transfer the steak to a cutting board (do not clean the platter), and thinly slice it across the grain. Return the steak and any juice to the platter and serve topped with the remaining butter and the lime wedges on the side.


boneless barbecue short ribs This is a simple, tender grilled boneless short rib recipe. Be patient and attentive at the grill; you want the ribs nicely caramelized but you don’t want to overcook them. Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup packed light brown sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar ½ cup paprika (try ¼ cup smoked paprika and ¼ cup sweet paprika) 2½ Tbs. kosher salt 2½ Tbs. freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. granulated onion ½ tsp. cayenne 2 lb. boneless beef short ribs, connective tissue removed Vegetable oil, for the grill 1 cup Perfect Barbecue Sauce (at right) or your favorite thick barbecue sauce

In a medium bowl, blend together both sugars, the paprika, salt, pepper, granulated onion, and cayenne. Sprinkle the short rib pieces liberally with this mixture until coated on all sides. Let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes. Place the beef ribs on the grill, close the lid, and reduce the heat to medium. Turn the ribs every 3 to 5 minutes so that every side gets slightly caramelized, 15 to 20 minutes total. (If your short-rib pieces are small, it won’t take quite this long.) The ribs should yield easily to the touch, not unlike a medium-rare steak or the way the tip of your nose feels. Reduce the heat a little more and brush the ribs with the sauce. Cover the grill and let cook for a minute or two for the sauce to set up, and then continue to turn and brush until all sides of the ribs have been glazed. Remove to a platter and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, covered with foil. Serve.

perfect barbecue sauce The sauce is a great blend of sweet, tart, tang, and clingability. It’s great on ribs, brisket, smoked pork butt, and grilled chicken. Yields about 2 cups 1 large onion, chopped 1 cup sugar 1 cup ketchup ½ cup distilled white vinegar ¼ cup yellow mustard ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ cup Worcestershire sauce

Mix all the ingredients together in a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly and cook until thickened, about 25 minutes. Thin with water if it gets too thick. Serve on anything your heart desires. Pour into an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

35


BEEF

korean flank steak tacos Kimchi, the beloved Korean side dish made from fermented vegetables, is a little tangy, a little spicy, and a fantastic foil for steak in these vibrantly flavored tacos. Marinated cucumbers add crunch and bright clean flavor, too. For additional color, add fresh radish and diced tomatoes, if you like. Serves 4 2 Tbs. rice vinegar ¾ tsp. Asian (toasted) sesame oil 1 tsp. plus ½ tsp. granulated sugar Kosher salt ½ medium English cucumber, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced 1 Tbs. soy sauce 1 tsp. grated fresh ginger Freshly ground black pepper 1¼ lb. beef flank steak, cut with the grain into 3-inch-wide pieces Vegetable oil, for the grill 8 6-inch flour tortillas, warmed 1 cup prepared cabbage kimchi (see Note below), coarsely chopped Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving (optional)

Whisk the vinegar, sesame oil, ½ tsp. of the sugar, and ¼ tsp. salt in a medium bowl until the sugar and salt are mostly dissolved. Add the cucumber and toss to combine. Let sit at room temperature for 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the soy sauce, ginger, the remaining 1 tsp. sugar, and ¼ tsp. black pepper in a small bowl to combine. Brush the steak on both sides with the soy sauce mixture. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Oil the grill grate with vegetable oil and grill the steak, turning once, until medium rare (130°F), 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice the steak thinly against the grain. Serve in the tortillas with the cucumbers and kimchi. Top with the cilantro, if you like. Note: Look for jarred kimchi in the produce section of well-stocked supermarkets or in Asian markets.

36

GRILLING 2018


COVER RECIPE

miso-marinated grilled beef, chicken, and vegetables The savory flavor of miso works wonders in marinades, giving everything it touches depth of flavor. Serves 4 1 lime 1 cup sake or dry white wine 2 3 cup white miso 2 3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro; more for garnish ½ cup olive oil 4 Tbs. honey 2 scallions, finely sliced Kosher salt 1 lb. 1-inch-thick boneless beef strip steaks (2 to 3 steaks), trimmed and cut into 1½-inch cubes 1 lb. boneless chicken breast, cut into 1½-inch cubes 1 lb. assorted vegetables, such as mushroom caps, bell peppers, zucchini, and red onions, trimmed and cut into 1- to 1½-inch chunks

Finely grate the zest of the lime into a small bowl, then juice the lime into the bowl. Whisk in the sake, miso, cilantro, oil, honey, scallion, and ½ tsp. salt.

Thread the beef, chicken, and vegetables onto metal or soaked wooden skewers. Put the skewers in a nonreactive (stainless steel, glass, or plastic) container and pour the marinade over them, turning to coat on all sides. Marinate for at least 1 hour at room temperature. When ready to grill, heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high heat (400°F to 475°F). Remove the skewers from the marinade, shaking off the excess. Grill the skewers, basting with the marinade and turning occasionally, 20 minutes for the chicken, 16 to 20 minutes for the beef depending on preferred doneness, and until the vegetables are tender. Season to taste with more salt and garnish with more cilantro, if you like, before serving.

sake-marinated steak Beef lends itself to all types of marinades, but this complex, sakebased one adds sweet overtones to grilled steak. Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup sake (preferably junmai ginjo) 6 Tbs. shoyu (Japanese-style soy sauce) or regular soy sauce ¼ packed cup dark brown sugar 2 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbs. vegetable oil; more for grilling 1 tsp. Asian (toasted) sesame oil ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes; more to taste 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 boneless rib-eye steaks (about 2½ lb. total)

Combine the sake, shoyu, sugar, Worcestershire, oils, pepper flakes, and garlic in a 2-quart baking dish. Whisk until the sugar dissolves. Add the steak, turning several times to coat. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least eight hours or overnight. Remove the steak from the marinade and bring to room temperature. Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Brush the steak lightly with oil. Grill the steak, flipping once halfway through cooking, about 12 minutes total for medium-rare meat (135°F). Remove from the grill, tent with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice the steak into thin strips.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

37


BEEF

marinated steak with grilled scallions The intense flavor of this homemade marinade adds a special touch to steaks. The grilled scallions make a perfect accompaniment. Serves 4 4 1-inch-thick top loin (New York strip) steaks (8 to 10 oz. each), trimmed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 Tbs. canola oil 2 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce 4 tsp. chopped fresh thyme 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar 1 large clove garlic, minced 10 scallions, bulbs split in half lengthwise if large

Sprinkle the steaks with 1¼ tsp. salt and 2 tsp. pepper. In a medium bowl, mix 4 Tbs. of the oil with the soy sauce, 3 tsp. of the thyme, the Worcestershire, mustard, vinegar, and garlic. Put the steaks in a large bowl and coat them with the soy sauce mixture. Cover the bowl and marinate the steaks in the refrigerator, turning occasionally, for at least 4 hours and up to 1 day. For a gas grill, light the front burner to medium high and the back burner to medium low. For a charcoal grill, light a medium fire (about 300°F to 350°F) with two-thirds of the coals banked to one side. Clean and oil the grill grates. While the grill heats, set the steaks out at room temperature. Toss the scallions with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and ½ tsp. each salt and pepper. Set the steaks over the hotter part of the fire and the scallions over the cooler zone. Cook, covered, until the scallions brown, about 3 minutes, and the steaks have good grill marks and easily release from the grate, about 4 minutes. Flip both the scallions and steaks. Cook the steaks until they’re just firm to the touch, pink when you slice into a thicker part, and register 135°F on an instantread thermometer for medium rare, about 4 minutes. Grill the scallions until browned and softened, about 3 more minutes. Transfer the steaks to dinner plates, top with the remaining 1 tsp. thyme, and serve with the scallions.

38

GRILLING 2018


indonesian beef satay Beef satay is as tender as butter and beautifully charred, and the sauce is rich and spicy. In this version, cashews are substituted for the traditional peanuts in the sauce, giving it ultra-creamy texture and flavor. Satay is traditionally served as a snack or appetizer, but you can make it a meal, if you like. Serves 8 as an appetizer or 4 as a main course FOR THE STEAK 1½ lb. rump or sirloin steak 1 Tbs. finely grated lime zest 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice 2 Tbs. tamari 2 Tbs. fish sauce 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger 1 Tbs. honey 2 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. ground coriander

FOR GRILLING AND SERVING 32 6-inch skewers (soaked in water for 30 minutes if wooden) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil, as needed 2 Tbs. melted coconut oil or canola oil 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

½ tsp. ground cumin

Lime wedges

FOR THE CASHEW SAUCE

MARINATE THE STEAK

½ cup roasted unsalted cashews 1 3 cup coarsely chopped shallot (1 large) 1 medium lemongrass stalk (bottom 5 inches only), tough outer layers removed and stalk thinly sliced 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger 1 large clove garlic, chopped 1 small fresh red Thai chile, stemmed 1 Tbs. extra-virgin coconut or canola oil

Trim the steak, wrap in plastic, and freeze for 15 minutes. Slice across the grain into 1 8-inch-thick pieces about 1 inch wide and 4 to 5 inches long.

In a large bowl, combine the lime zest and juice, tamari, fish sauce, ginger, honey, garlic, coriander, and cumin; add the steak and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. MAKE THE CASHEW SAUCE

Pulse the cashews in a food processor until finely ground; transfer to a small bowl. Pulse the shallot, lemongrass, ginger, garlic, and chile until finely chopped. Heat the coconut oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot mixture and cook, stirring often, until starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the ground cashews, coconut milk, tamari, honey, fish sauce, and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil and then turn the heat down and simmer, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes.

Transfer to a blender. Add the lime juice and salt; blend until smooth. (You can refrigerate the sauce in an airtight container for up to 2 days.) GRILL THE SATAY

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling. Thread a slice of the marinated steak onto each skewer like a ribbon, stretching it out a bit but not until flat. Season with salt and pepper. Oil the grill grate. Grill the satay in batches, turning often and basting once or twice with coconut oil until the surface is slightly charred but the center is still slightly pink, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer to a platter, tent with foil, and keep warm while grilling the remaining skewers. Stir half of the cilantro into the sauce, and sprinkle the satay with the remaining. Serve with the lime wedges and the sauce.

1 3 cup well-shaken coconut milk 1 Tbs. tamari 1½ tsp. honey 1 tsp. fish sauce 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice ½ tsp. kosher salt

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

39


BEEF

red chile–coriander rib-eye steaks These steaks get two delicious layers of flavor: a quick and easy marinade, plus a slightly spicy, smoky spice rub. If you can’t find dried habaneros, then just skip them. Store the remaining rub in an airtight container and use on grilled hamburgers and for other grilled beef dishes. Serves 4 4 12- to 14-oz. rib-eye steaks FOR THE MARINADE 1 Tbs. kosher salt ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Juice and finely grated zest of 2 lemons Leaves from 5 sprigs fresh thyme 1 clove garlic, minced 1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar 1 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper FOR THE RED CHILE–CORIANDER RUB 5 dried habaneros (¼ oz.) (omit if not available) 5 dried pasilla or ancho chile peppers (2 oz.) 10 dried guajillo chile peppers (2 oz.)

COOK THE STEAKS

When ready to grill the steaks, heat a charcoal or gas grill on high. Remove the steaks from the bag or dish and lightly sprinkle both sides with the rub. Cook over a hot grill, searing on one side and then flipping once. Cook to the desired temperature, preferably medium rare, 130°F to 135°F on a digital thermometer. Let sit for a few minutes before serving.

2 Tbs. whole peppercorns 4 Tbs. kosher salt PREPARE THE STEAKS

In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients for the marinade and whisk

chimichurri sauce This sauce can be made up to two days in advance and refrigerated in a well-sealed container. Yields about 1 cup

1 3 cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh lime juice (from 1½ limes) 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped garlic (from 4 to 5 medium cloves) 1 tsp. coarsely chopped jalapeño (from ¼ medium chile) 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste

40

GRILLING 2018

Place the dried peppers in a hot, dry skillet and lightly toast over a low flame. Let cool and then remove the stems and seeds. Roughly chop the peppers. Put the peppers and the remaining ingredients in a small blender and process until the mixture is medium to finely chopped. If whole seeds or peppercorns remain, mash them by hand with a mortar and pestle and then add to the mixture.

1 Tbs. crushed red pepper flakes

1 Tbs. cumin seeds

1 cup packed fresh mint leaves (from 1 large bunch)

MAKE THE RUB

2 Tbs. smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón) 1 Tbs. coriander seeds

1 cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves (from 1 large bunch)

together to blend. Rub the steaks with the marinade and place in a plastic zip-top bag or nonreactive dish and refrigerate overnight.

Put the parsley, mint, olive oil, lime juice, garlic, jalapeño, cumin, and salt in a food processor. Process, stopping to scrape the bowl as often as needed, until puréed into a thick sauce. Add more salt to taste if needed and refrigerate until ready to use.


argentine-style burger A classic burger is pretty hard to beat, but sometimes you just want more. In which case, the burger here, seasoned with jalapeño, onions, and garlic, served in a pita, and topped with chimichurri sauce (instead of the classic ketchup), is a spirited alternative. Yields 4 burgers 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Lettuce leaves (optional)

burger with the tips of your middle three fingers. Sprinkle both sides with salt. Put a large skillet or griddle, preferably cast iron, over high heat and let it get very hot, about 2 minutes. (The pan is hot enough when a drop of water evaporates instantly.) Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and tilt the pan to spread it evenly. Arrange the burgers so there’s as much space as possible between them, reduce the heat to medium high, and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Turn and cook until the burger feels springy but not mushy when poked, about 3 minutes for medium rare (or longer if you’re concerned about undercooked meat). Cut the top inch or so off the pitas to open up the pockets wide enough to fit the burgers. Serve the burgers in the pita with red onion and lettuce, if using, and some of the chimichurri sauce.

Chimichurri Sauce (recipe at left)

ON THE GRILL

½ cup finely chopped yellow onion (from ½ medium-small onion) 2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (from 6 to 7 medium cloves) 1 Tbs. finely chopped jalapeño (from ¾ medium chile) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ lb. ground round (85% lean) 1½ tsp. ground cumin 1½ tsp. dried oregano ¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro 4 5- to 6-inch pita pockets Thin red onion slices (optional)

In a medium skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, jalapeño, and ¼ tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl, let cool for 10 minutes, and then add the ground beef, cumin, oregano, cilantro, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of pepper. Mix gently with your hands until just combined. Shape the meat into four burgers, ¾ inch thick and 4 inches across, working the meat as little as possible. Make a ¼-inch dent in the center of each

Charcoal: Prepare a medium-hot fire. Cook the burgers, uncovered, on one side for 5 minutes. Turn and cook until the burgers feel springy but not mushy when poked, another 4 to 5 minutes for medium rare. Gas: Heat the grill to high. When the interior temperature is about 500°F, cook the burgers for 3 minutes with the lid closed. Turn, close the lid, and cook until the burgers feel springy but not mushy when poked, another 3 to 4 minutes for medium rare.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

41


garlicky lemon-thyme-marinated lamb chops, p. 44


pork & lamb 44

garlicky lemon-thymemarinated lamb chops

44

lamburgers with blue cheese and basil mayonnaise

45

grilled chile-spiced pork tenderloin

46

spicy ground lamb kebabs with onions and peppers

47

mediterranean grilled pork chops

48

glazed spice-rubbed spareribs

49

jamaican jerk pork

50

pork loin with chipotleorange-bourbon glaze


PORK & LAMB

garlicky lemonthyme-marinated lamb chops The bright marinade for these lamb chops is always a surefire hit. Serve some lemon wedges on the side, if you like. (See the photo on p. 42.) Yields a scant 2 cups; enough for 4 servings 2 3 cup olive oil 2 3 cup fresh lemon juice; more wedges for serving ¼ cup pure maple syrup 1 3 cup finely chopped garlic (about 12 cloves) ¼ cup fresh thyme leaves, plus sprigs (optional) ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 lamb rib chops, trimmed

In a medium bowl, whisk the oil, lemon juice, and maple syrup. Add the garlic, thyme leaves (and a few sprigs, if you like), red pepper flakes, 1¼ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. black pepper, and stir to combine. Marinate the lamb chops in a zip-top bag for at least 1 hour at room temperature and up to 24 hours covered and refrigerated. When ready to grill, heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high heat (400°F to 475°F). Remove the lamb chops from the marinade, shaking off the excess. Grill the chops, turning once, until cooked through, about 6 minutes. Season with more salt to taste, and garnish with lemon wedges and thyme sprigs, if desired.

lamburgers with blue cheese and basil mayonnaise The deep flavor in these burgers comes from mixing a little onion powder, garlic powder, and smoked paprika into the ground lamb before grilling. Serves 4 2 oz. good-quality blue cheese, such as Maytag or Point Reyes, crumbled (about ½ cup) 1 3 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil ¼ cup mayonnaise 2 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1¼ lb. ground lamb 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. onion powder ½ tsp. smoked paprika 4 3 8-inch-thick slices red onion 4 hamburger rolls, lightly toasted

44

GRILLING 2018

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the cheese, basil, mayonnaise, and mustard. Season to taste with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, gently combine the lamb with the garlic and onion powders, paprika, 1 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. Form into 4 thin patties about 5½ inches wide. Grill the burgers and onion slices, flipping once, until the burgers are cooked to your liking (145°F for medium) and the onions are tender, 4 to 5 minutes for the burgers, 8 to 9 minutes for the onions. Spread the bun tops with the blue cheese mixture, and serve the burgers on the buns topped with the onions.


grilled chile-spiced pork tenderloin Butterflied and pounded thin, pork tenderloins can be cooked quickly over a hot grill. Serve sliced with some rice and beans or lime-accented coleslaw, or cut the meat into strips and use as a taco filling. Serves 4 to 6 2 Tbs. ground chile powder, such as ancho, California, or New Mexico 2 tsp. finely grated lime zest 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 Tbs. olive oil; more for the grill 1 Tbs. finely chopped jalapeño 2 cloves garlic, chopped ½ tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. dried oregano Kosher salt 2 pork tenderloins (2 to 2½ lb. total) Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving Lime wedges, for serving

In a small bowl, combine the chile powder, lime zest and juice, oil, jalapeño, garlic, cumin, oregano, and 1 tsp. salt to form a paste.

Butterfly the tenderloins by making a lengthwise slit down each, taking care not to cut all the way through to the opposite side. Open each tenderloin, cover with a sheet of plastic wrap, and gently pound the meat with a meat pounder to an even thickness of about ½ inch. Generously rub the chile paste all over, and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour (or refrigerate, wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 day). Meanwhile, prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Lightly oil the grate and grill the

tenderloins, flipping once, until just firm to the touch, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a warm platter, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice and serve with the cilantro and lime wedges.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

45


PORK & LAMB

spicy ground lamb kebabs with onions and peppers Reminiscent of the Turkish meatballs called köfte, ground lamb gets wrapped around a skewer (an easy step) and grilled to juicy perfection. Served on flatbread with grilled vegetables and a cool yogurt sauce, it makes a casual but fantastic meal. Serves 4 1 lb. ground lamb 3 Tbs. jarred sofrito (see Note) 3 medium cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp. dried oregano Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large sweet onion, unpeeled and cut into three thick slices 1 large red bell pepper, halved lengthwise and seeded 4 Tbs. olive oil ½ medium cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced

46

GRILLING 2018

4 round flatbreads or pocketless pitas, 5 to 6 inches across 1 cup homemade or purchased tzatziki sauce

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Have ready four 10- to 12-inch skewers. In a medium bowl, use your hands to combine the lamb, sofrito, garlic, oregano, 1½ tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. With damp hands, divide the lamb into four equal portions. Working with one portion at a time and rewetting your hands as necessary to prevent sticking, press the lamb

around skewers into sausage shapes about 5 inches long. Brush the onion and pepper on both sides with 2 Tbs. of the oil, and season with ½ tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. pepper. Grill, flipping once, until charred in spots and just tender, 8 to 9 minutes total. Brush the lamb on all sides with the remaining 2 Tbs. oil. Grill, flipping once, until slightly pink in the center (cut into one to check), about 5 minutes. Remove from the grill and tent with foil. Grill the flatbreads, flipping once, until lightly charred, about 1 minute. Remove the skin from the onion. Coarsely chop the onion and pepper, and toss with the cucumber. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove the lamb from the skewers and serve on the flatbreads with the vegetables and tzatziki. Note: Sofrito, a cooked mixture of aromatic vegetables and seasonings, is used in many Latin American dishes. Though you can make it yourself, you also can buy it jarred at many supermarkets for a handy weeknight shortcut.


mediterranean grilled pork chops The fragrant fennel-paprika rub and the briny cherry tomato salsa evoke the cuisines of Italy. Serves 6 6 boneless pork loin chops, about ¾ inch thick 1½ Tbs. canola or vegetable oil; more for the grill 1 recipe Fennel-Paprika Spice Rub (below) 1 recipe Cherry Tomato Salsa with Capers and Green Olives (below)

Build a hot charcoal fire or heat a gas grill with all burners on high for at least 10 minutes. While the grill heats, lightly coat both sides of the pork chops with the oil and rub with the spice rub. Clean the hot grate with a wire brush; oil the grate. Grill the pork chops (uncovered for charcoal; covered for gas) over direct heat on the hottest part of the grill, taking care not to crowd the meat. Cook until the meat forms impressive grill marks on one side, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and continue to grill (uncovered for charcoal; covered for gas) until the meat is just firm to touch and just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes, depending on their thickness. (Watch out for flare-ups.) Transfer to a serving platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve with the salsa spooned alongside or over the meat.

fennel-paprika spice rub Yields about 3½ Tbs. 2 tsp. dark brown sugar 2 tsp. crushed or chopped fennel seeds 1½ tsp. sweet paprika 1½ tsp. garlic powder 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. kosher salt

In a small bowl, mix the brown sugar, fennel seeds, paprika, garlic powder, pepper, and salt.

cherry tomato salsa with capers and green olives Yields 2½ cups 2 scant cups cherry (or grape) tomatoes, quartered ½ small red onion, cut into small dice (about ½ cup) ¼ cup coarsely chopped pimentostuffed green olives 2 Tbs. drained capers 2 Tbs. torn fresh basil leaves 1 large clove garlic, minced 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste

½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion, olives, capers, basil, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, and ¼ tsp. each kosher salt and pepper. Let stand while the meat grills. Before serving, adjust the lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

47


PORK & LAMB

glazed spice-rubbed spareribs Adding some smoked paprika to the cumin and fennel in the spice rub guarantees smoky results. These initially get cooked in the oven and then finished on the grill. Serves 6 to 8

COOK THE PORK

½ cup apple juice

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Crush the fennel, cumin, and peppercorns to a medium grind in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. Stir in the paprika. Set aside 1 tsp. of the spice mix. Season the ribs well all over with kosher salt, then rub the spice mix all over. Transfer to a large roasting pan, meaty side up. Pour in the apple juice, cover tightly with foil, and cook until very tender, about 2 hours; the ribs should sag if you hold the center up with a pair of tongs. Uncover, and let cool to room temperature in the pan. (If not serving right away, wrap in foil. Refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze up to 1 month.)

½ cup tomato paste

MAKE THE GLAZE

2 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce

Combine the apple juice, tomato paste, Worcestershire, sugar, mustard, oregano, garlic, and ½ tsp. salt in a medium saucepan. Cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

FOR THE RIBS 2 Tbs. fennel seeds 1 Tbs. cumin seeds 2 tsp. whole black peppercorns 2 Tbs. smoked paprika, preferably hot 6½ to 7 lb. pork spareribs (about 2 racks) Kosher salt ½ cup apple juice Flaky sea salt (optional) FOR THE GLAZE

1½ packed Tbs. dark brown sugar 1½ tsp. spicy brown mustard ½ tsp. dried oregano ½ tsp. finely chopped garlic Kosher salt

48

GRILLING 2018

(The glaze may be made up to 3 days ahead; let cool, cover, and refrigerate.) FINISH THE RIBS ON THE GRILL

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the ribs with a thin coating of the glaze. Grill, flipping every 5 minutes or so and basting with more glaze until the glaze browns, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes before cutting the ribs apart. Sprinkle the reserved 1 tsp. of spices over the ribs and finish with a little kosher or flaky sea salt.


jamaican jerk pork This juicy, flavorful pork takes time—a few hours to brine, overnight to marinate, and 7 to 8 hours to smoke. It’s mostly hands off and well worth it. In Jamaica, this is street food that’s eaten with rice and peas, grilled corn, or fried cornbread called festival. Serves 6 to 8 1 4- to 5-lb. bone-in pork butt or shoulder FOR THE BRINE ½ cup Jamaican dark rum, such as Appleton

1½ Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

3 Tbs. soy sauce

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 oz. kosher salt (3 Tbs. if using Diamond Crystal; 2 Tbs. if using Morton)

1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar 1½ Tbs. robust unsulfured molasses 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

1 Tbs. Jamaican dark rum, such as Appleton 2 tsp. robust unsulfured molasses FOR SMOKING 2 cups pimento or applewood chips

1 tsp. ground allspice ½ tsp. ground cinnamon FOR THE JERK MARINADE 4 medium cloves garlic, crushed 4 whole Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles, stemmed, seeds left intact 1 large yellow onion, quartered ½ cup fresh orange juice (from about 2 oranges) ½ cup white vinegar ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup soy sauce 3 Tbs. whole dried allspice berries or 2 Tbs. ground allspice 2 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves 5 8 oz. kosher salt (2 Tbs. if using Diamond Crystal; 4 tsp. if using Morton)

Remove the pork from the brine and pat dry. Discard the brine. Use a fork or the tip of a sharp knife to poke holes all over the pork. Return to the bag or bowl. Pour the remaining marinade over the pork, squeeze out any air, and seal 2 , or cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 8 and up to 24 hours.

BRINE THE PORK

COOK THE PORK

Place the pork in a large bowl or in a zip-top bag set inside the bowl. In a large measuring cup, combine all the brine ingredients with 3½ cups water. Stir until the salt and sugar dissolve. Pour the brine into the bag with the pork 1 , squeeze out any air, and seal, or cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 and up to 6 hours.

Prepare a grill for indirect cooking over medium-low heat (300°F to 325°F) following the directions below. Remove the pork from the marinade and place on the cool side of the grill, fat side up. Cover the grill and cook for 2 hours. Using a silicone brush, baste the pork with the reserved basting liquid every 30 minutes until it’s used up 3 . Continue cooking until tender when pierced with a fork and an instant-read thermometer registers 190°F in the center, another 5 to 6 hours, checking the temperature on the grill. Transfer the pork to a cutting board, and let rest until cool enough to handle. Remove the pork from the bone, cut into 2-inch chunks, and serve.

MARINATE THE PORK

In a blender, purée the garlic, chiles, onion, orange juice, vinegar, olive oil, soy sauce, allspice, thyme, salt, lime juice, brown sugar, ginger, pepper, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Stir the rum and molasses into 1 cup of the mixture and reserve for basting.

getting the jerk flavor

1 Soy sauce (not unusual in Caribbean cuisine due to a sizable Chinese population) and rum in the brine add deep savory and sweet flavors to the pork.

2 Marinating the meat in a bag that’s placed in a bowl keeps all sides of the pork in constant contact with the marinade.

3 Rum and molasses are added to the marinade for basting. The sugar in those ingredients caramelizes to create a dark crust.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

49


PORK & LAMB

pork loin with chipotleorange-bourbon glaze Probably one of the best-known bourbons, Woodford Reserve is the perfect culinary bourbon. It’s full bodied, with a balance of flavors ranging from caramel, butter, and spice to apple and orange notes; these flavors blend beautifully with the smokiness and heat in grilled dishes. Serves 6 5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 2 Tbs. Chipotle in Adobo Purée (opposite) Juice of 1 orange, rinds reserved Juice of 2 limes, rinds reserved 1 Tbs. kosher salt 2 Tbs. Homemade Sazón (below) ¼ cup olive oil 1 2¼- to 2½-lb. pork loin Chipotle-Orange-Bourbon Glaze (opposite)

Combine the first seven ingredients in a small bowl and whisk well to combine. Pat the pork dry with paper towels and place in a nonreactive dish. With bare hands or foodsafe gloves, rub the marinade all over the pork, working it in well.

Add the reserved rinds. Cover the meat with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours. Heat a grill to high. Grill the pork until you get a nice sear on all sides. Alternatively, sear the pork in a very hot cast-iron pan or skillet with a little olive oil. Position a rack in the center of a convection oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Once the meat has a nice sear, transfer from the grill or skillet to a small roasting pan, along with the reserved rinds, put the pan in the oven, and cook for 20 to 30 minutes, until the internal temperature is between 150°F and 155°F. Remove from the oven, tent with foil, and let rest before slicing. Slice the pork into servingsize pieces and drizzle with the Chipotle-Orange-Bourbon Glaze.

homemade sazón Sazón is a popular seasoning in Latin cooking and is available commercially at Latin markets or in the International section of your grocery store. Many Latin cooks use the version with achiote powder (from ground annatto seeds) to achieve the vibrant orange color in foods. This homemade Sazón brightens up foods and gives them more depth of flavor. Yields about 1 3 cup 1 Tbs. ground coriander 1 Tbs. ground cumin 1 Tbs. garlic powder 1 Tbs. achiote or ground annatto seeds 1 Tbs. kosher salt

In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix well. Store in a small, airtight container as you would any other spice or spice blend for up to 6 months.

50

GRILLING 2018


chipotle in adobo purée Place an entire can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce in a food processor or blender and process until puréed. Measure out 2-Tbs. and 3-Tbs. amounts and freeze in either small zip-top plastic bags or ice cube trays. This way, you will have prepared purée in your freezer next time a recipe calls for the ingredient. The frozen chipotle purée will last for at least 6 months. You may need to thaw the purée before adding it to certain recipes (such as a cold dish or sauce).

chipotle-orangebourbon glaze Yields about 3 cups 1 tsp. canola oil ½ onion, cut into ¼-inch dice 1 15-oz. can diced tomatoes 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbs. Chipotle in Adobo Purée (above), plus more as needed 2 cups ketchup 1 cup orange juice 1 Tbs. minced garlic 1 tsp. onion powder 1 tsp. garlic powder ¾ cup Kentucky bourbon (such as Woodford Reserve), divided 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 bay leaf Juice of 1 lemon Finely grated zest of 1 orange

In a medium saucepan, heat the canola oil until hot but not smoking. Add the onion and sweat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients including ½ cup bourbon. Stir well and bring to a rolling boil. Continue to boil, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes. Lower the heat and simmer until the mixture is reduced and thickened, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly and remove and discard the bay leaf. Blend the mixture with an immersion blender or in a high-speed blender, then add the remaining ¼ cup bourbon, if desired, for a more pronounced bourbon flavor. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator until ready to reheat and use. The sauce can be reduced further and used as a barbecue sauce for grilled pork chops and chicken.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

51


grilled peri-peri chicken, p. 54


poultry 54

grilled peri-peri chicken

54

japanese chicken kebabs ( yakitori)

55

greek-inspired grilled cornish game hens with honey-garlic butter

56

tuscan grain bowl with grilled chicken and broccolini

57

barbecued buttermilkmarinated chicken breasts

58

tequila-lime chicken thighs

59

penne with grilled chicken, portabellas, and scallions

60

grilled turkey burgers

61

grilled chicken wings


P O U LT RY

grilled peri-peri chicken Peri-peri sauce is a hot, spicy chile pepper–based condiment that originated in the Portuguese colonies of Africa. Available at most supermarkets, it gives the chicken a tangy not-too-hot flavor. Look for it near the hot sauces. (See the photo on p. 52.) Serves 4 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped ¼ cup peri-peri sauce 2 Tbs. vegetable oil 2 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest Kosher salt 4 skin-on boneless chicken breast halves (see p. 94)

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Combine the garlic, peri-peri sauce, oil, zest, and 1 tsp. salt in a medium bowl. Using a meat mallet, pound each chicken breast between two sheets of plastic wrap until uniform in thickness. Add the chicken to the peri-peri mixture, tossing to coat, and marinate for about 10 minutes. Starting skin side down, grill the chicken, flipping once, until cooked through (160°F), about 15 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for a few minutes. Slice the chicken, if you like, and serve.

japanese chicken kebabs (yakitori) This is a fantastic version of yakitori, which means “grilled bird” in Japanese. It pairs thighs with a sweet-and-savory soy-ginger marinade, which is also used as a basting sauce that caramelizes on the chicken as it cooks. Serves 4 1 3 cup tamari ¼ cup sake 3 Tbs. mirin 2 Tbs. coconut or dark brown sugar 2 Tbs. honey 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger 1½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1½-inch pieces (about 36) 36 small shiitake mushrooms, stemmed 12 medium scallions, white and light green parts cut crosswise into 1½-inch pieces (36 pieces) and dark green parts thinly sliced Vegetable oil, as needed 12 12-inch skewers (soaked in water for 30 minutes if wooden) 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds

Combine the tamari, sake, mirin, sugar, honey, and ginger in a 1-quart saucepan; bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and cool completely.

54

GRILLING 2018

In a medium bowl, toss the chicken with the marinade. Cover and let sit for 30 minutes. Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling. Remove the chicken from the marinade. Return the marinade to the saucepan, bring to a boil, and then turn the heat down to low and simmer until slightly thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. Alternately thread 3 pieces of chicken, 3 shiitake, and 3 pieces of scallion onto each skewer, leaving a little space between pieces. Oil the grill grate. Grill the skewers until grill marks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn, baste the cooked side with the sauce, and continue to grill, turning and basting, until the chicken is cooked through and the mushrooms are tender, 5 to 6 minutes more. Serve drizzled with the remaining sauce and sprinkled with the sesame seeds and sliced scallions.


greek-inspired grilled cornish game hens with honey-garlic butter Oregano, lemon, garlic, and red wine give these grilled birds a sun-kissed Mediterranean flavor. Serves 4 FOR THE SEASONING 1 Tbs. granulated garlic 1 Tbs. granulated onion 1½ tsp. dried oregano 1½ tsp. smoked paprika ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. kosher salt 2 game hens (about 2 lb. each), spatchcocked (see p. 92) 2 Tbs. olive oil; more for the grill FOR THE GLAZE 1 cup red wine 2 Tbs. tomato paste 2 Tbs. honey ¼ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper FOR THE BUTTER 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic 1 tsp. honey ¼ tsp. packed finely grated lemon zest ¼ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened FOR THE GARNISH Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Flaky salt (optional) SEASON THE BIRDS

In a small bowl, combine the granulated garlic and onion, oregano, paprika, cinnamon, and salt. Rub the game hens all over with the oil, then with the seasoning, using most of it on the meatier side of the birds. MAKE THE GLAZE

In a small saucepan, whisk the wine, tomato paste, honey, salt,

and pepper over high heat, and bring to a boil. Lower to a simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until reduced to about ½ cup, 10 to 20 minutes. Set aside. MAKE THE BUTTER

In a small bowl, combine the garlic, honey, lemon zest, salt, and pepper, and allow to sit for 5 minutes for the flavors to develop. Add the butter, and stir to combine. Set aside. GRILL AND GLAZE THE GAME HENS

Prepare a high (500°F to 600°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Oil the grate. Grill the game hens, breast sides down, until the skin has

nice grill marks; 10 to 15 minutes. Flip the birds over, brush with the glaze, and cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes on that side. Finish grilling the birds over indirect heat: For a gas grill, simply turn off all but one of the burners and adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a temperature of 350°F. For a charcoal grill, briefly remove the birds from the grill, then remove the grill grate. Use long-handled tongs to bank the hot coals to one side. Put the grate in place. Place an oven thermometer on the grate over the cooler area, close the lid, and let the coals burn down until the thermometer reads about 350°F.

Transfer the birds to the cooler side of the grill and continue cooking, breast side up, brushing with the glaze every couple of minutes until cooked through (160°F), 45 to 50 minutes. (It’s fine if you run out of glaze before the birds are cooked.) You may want to rotate the position of the birds so the same sides are not always closest to the heat. BUTTER, GARNISH, AND SERVE

Transfer the birds to a cutting board, breast side up, and spread with some of the butter. Tent with foil for 5 minutes. Cut into halves or quarters, garnish with the chopped parsley and salt, and pass the remaining butter at the table.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

55


P O U LT RY

tuscan grain bowl with grilled chicken and broccolini A quick pesto-like sauce brings this bowl together and adds summery flavor. Crisp garlic slivers are a fun crunchy element. Serves 1 ½ cup (¾ oz.) fresh basil, chopped 1½ Tbs. fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped 2 Tbs. pine nuts 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 1½ cups cooked pearled farro (cook according to package directions) 4 oz. chicken breast, grilled ¾ cup chopped roasted Broccolini ¾ cup chopped escarole ¼ cup halved cherry tomatoes 1½ Tbs. balsamic glaze 2 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced and sautéed until crisp Small fresh basil leaves

56

GRILLING 2018

Put the chopped basil, parsley, and pine nuts in a small food processor or mortar, and pulse or grind with a pestle until well combined. Add the olive oil and pulse to incorporate, adding more oil to thin, if needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mound the farro in a large bowl. Arrange the chicken, Broccolini, escarole, and tomatoes on top. Drizzle with the balsamic glaze and pesto, garnish with the garlic and basil leaves, and serve.

grain bowls Grain bowls are everywhere these days—and for good reason. They’re hearty, flavorful, colorful, and infinitely adaptable. Plus, with some planning and prep work on the weekend—cooking grains, meat, and vegetables, maybe whisking together a dressing— they come together in just minutes.


barbecued buttermilkmarinated chicken breasts Slather this tender chicken with barbecue sauce before it comes off the grill for a quick take on slow-cooked barbecued chicken. Serves 6 2 cups well-shaken buttermilk ½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves Olive oil, for grilling ½ cup homemade or good-quality store-bought barbecue sauce

In a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, cayenne, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper until combined. Put the chicken in a bowl, dish, or large zip-top bag. Cover with the marinade, turning the chicken to coat if necessary, and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Shake the excess marinade off the chicken and pat dry. Lightly coat the chicken all over with oil and season lightly with salt. Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and grill for another 3 to 4 minutes. Brush the top side with barbecue sauce, flip, and brush more on the second side. Grill until just cooked through (160°F), another 2 to 4 minutes. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

57


P O U LT RY

tequila-lime chicken thighs For a full, robust tequila flavor, be sure to let the chicken marinate for at least 8 hours. Serves 4 1 3 cup tequila, preferably reposado 1 3 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 large limes) ¼ cup agave syrup 3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tsp. chipotle chile powder 1 tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 2½ lb.), trimmed of excess fat

Peanut or vegetable oil, as needed 1 lime ¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro; more to taste

In a medium bowl, whisk the tequila, lime juice, agave, garlic, chile powder, cumin, oregano, 2½ tsp. salt, and black pepper to taste. Add the chicken, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 2 days. Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and shake off the excess liquid. Brush the chicken and the grill grate with the oil. Grill, flipping once, until charred in places and cooked through, about 8 minutes total. Remove the chicken from the grill, cover with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Squeeze half a lime over the chicken, garnish with the cilantro, and serve with the remaining lime, cut into wedges.

cooking with tequila Tequila is fun to cook with. When using it, think of the flavors you want to highlight or enhance in the food, and then choose a tequila that will do just that. If you want to add tequila to a salsa or vinaigrette, reach for a blanco—its pure, bright vegetal flavors will complement fresh herbs and citrus. For the tequila-lime chicken here, use a reposado for its woody, smoky personality, which complements the chipotle chile and the char of the grill.

58

GRILLING 2018


penne with grilled chicken, portabellas, and scallions Add the sliced portabellas and croutons at the last minute, and toss gently so the mushrooms don’t give a gray cast to the other elements in the dish. Save the portabella stems for grilling another time. Serves 4 5 portabella mushrooms (4 to 5 inches in diameter), wiped clean, stems removed 1½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts 16 thin scallions, trimmed 7 large ½-inch slices Italian or French bread (if you’re using a skinny loaf, cut on the diagonal for larger slices, or use more slices) About ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for brushing Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste ¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped ½ lb. penne rigate Freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese (optional)

Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or heat a gas grill for 20 minutes on high. Brush the mushrooms, chicken, scallions, and bread liberally with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, stir the parsley, garlic, and 3 Tbs. of the olive oil together. Grill the mushrooms until flattened and golden brown (10 to 15 minutes), the chicken until streaked golden brown and springy to the touch but still moist inside (15 to 20 minutes), the scallions until slightly blackened (about 5 minutes), and the bread until golden brown (about 5 minutes), turning everything as you grill. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a vigorous boil and add the pasta. Cook until al dente; drain, reserving about 1 cup of the pasta liquid for tossing with the pasta. Slice the grilled mushrooms and chicken thinly to about the same size as the penne; chop the scallions into ½-inch lengths. Crumble the toasted bread. Add the pasta, chicken, and scallions to the dressing in the bowl and toss. Add ¼ cup olive oil and about ½ cup of the reserved pasta water to moisten the pasta, using more or less water as needed. Finally, add the portabellas and the crumbled toasted bread. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with freshly grated cheese, if you like.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

59


P O U LT RY

grilled turkey burgers Serve with your favorite burger toppings. Serves 4 1½ lb. ground turkey, preferably including some dark meat (93% lean) Kosher salt Freshly ground pepper 1 Tbs. olive oil

60

GRILLING 2018

Heat a grill to medium. Hand-shape patties (no more than ¾ inch thick), season well with salt and pepper, and brush with oil. Grill over direct heat for 6 to 8 minutes on each side, or until nicely browned with the grill covered; move to indirect heat to finish if necessary. Check doneness with an instantread thermometer.


grilled chicken wings A spicy rub and a hot sauce coating give these wings extra kick. Serves 6 to 8 FOR THE SPICE RUB ¼ cup packed light brown sugar ¼ cup paprika 1 Tbs. chili powder 1 tsp. cayenne 1 tsp. kosher salt Freshly cracked black peppercorns FOR THE WINGS 3 lb. chicken wings, tips removed (see below) 3 Tbs. canola oil; more for the grill ½ cup unsalted butter 6 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup hot sauce (preferably Frank’s Red Hot Sauce) 1 Tbs. distilled white vinegar 1 8 tsp. celery seeds Blue cheese or ranch dressing, for serving Celery sticks, for serving MAKE THE SPICE RUB

Combine all the ingredients in a container with a tight-fitting lid. Shake to mix. The rub will keep for several weeks. GRILL THE WINGS

Put the wings in a large bowl and drizzle with the canola oil; toss until the wings are well coated. Sprinkle 2 Tbs. of the spice rub over the wings and toss to coat. Cover and put in the refrigerator overnight. About an hour before you’re ready to cook, remove the wings. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes, just long enough for the garlic flavor to infuse the butter. Pour in the hot sauce, vinegar, and celery seeds. Stir to combine and remove from the heat. Oil the grill racks. Heat a gas grill to high with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes or prepare a hot charcoal fire. Arrange the chicken wings on the grill, close the lid, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, turning frequently, until all sides are brown and have grill marks. Transfer the wings to the skillet with the hot sauce and place over low heat, tossing to completely coat the wings. Let the wings and the sauce meld for about 5 minutes. Transfer the wings to a platter, and pour any additional sauce over them. Serve with the dressing, celery sticks, and plenty of napkins.

removing wingtips Using a sharp chef’s knife, split the wings at the joints, saving the middle section and drumette for grilling. Discard the wingtips or save them for stock.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

61


grilled mussels with rouille, p. 64


seafood 64

grilled mussels with rouille

65

grilled whole wild salmon with preserved lemon and fennel

66

north african grilled shrimp

67

grilled tuna with charred corn and watermelon salsa

68

grilled salmon with aleppo-honey glaze, turnips, and kale

69

grilled swordfish with lemon, dill, and cucumber sauce

70

asian citrus-ginger-sesame marinated scallops

71

grilled mahimahi with pineapple barbecue sauce and grilled sweet onions


SEAFOOD

grilled mussels with rouille Grilled mussels are a natural match for rouille, a classic French sauce that’s often served with seafood. To prep the mussels for grilling, you’ll need to remove their beards. Don’t try to yank them straight out—wiggle them from side to side and they’ll release more easily. (See the photo on p. 62.) Serves 4 as an appetizer and 2 as an entrée ½ large jarred roasted red pepper (about 4½ oz.), drained and patted dry with a paper towel 2½-inch-thick slices firm white bread, crusts removed 1 large egg yolk 1 small clove garlic, chopped 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice Pinch of saffron threads Pinch of cayenne pepper 6 Tbs. canola oil 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 2 lb. fresh mussels, scrubbed

Prepare a gas grill or charcoal grill to medium high (400°F to 475°F). (If using charcoal, the coals should be covered with white ash, and you should be able to hold your hand just above the grate for no more than 2 to 3 seconds.) Combine the roasted red pepper, bread, egg yolk, garlic, lemon juice, saffron, and cayenne pepper in a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is smooth. With the motor running, slowly pour in the canola oil in a slow, steady stream until the mixture thickens. Transfer the rouille to a bowl. Whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil until totally incorporated and season to taste with salt. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. Place the mussels on the cooking grate, close the lid, and cook until the mussels have opened, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mussels to a large bowl, lifting them off the grill with tongs to keep as much liquid in the shells as possible. Discard any mussels that do not open. Serve with the rouille for dipping.

64

GRILLING 2018


grilled whole wild salmon with preserved lemon and fennel This showstopping main course is perfect for a summer cookout or celebration. The salmon comes off the grill juicy and tender, perfumed with the preserved lemon-fennel stuffing and deeply seasoned from the cumin-and-garlic-spiked spice paste rubbed into the skin and cavity. Serve with grilled zucchini and eggplant and warm flatbread. Serves 6 to 8 1 6- to 8-lb. whole wild salmon, dressed 1 medium preserved lemon, rinsed, pulp and peel separated, and seeded 1 3 cup chopped fresh cilantro 3 medium cloves garlic 1 Tbs. olive oil 2 tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. hot paprika Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 small fennel bulb, halved, cored, and cut into 1 8-inch-thick slices; fronds reserved for garnish 5 or 6 thick toothpicks or wooden skewers, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes Vegetable or canola oil, as needed All-purpose flour, as needed Fresh lemon slices, for garnish

Using kitchen shears, cut off the salmon’s top fins and the fins just behind the gills. Rinse the fish well inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. Using a sharp boning knife, cut deep diagonal slashes almost to the bone 3 inches apart on both sides of the fish. With a mini food processor or mortar and pestle, blend the preserved lemon pulp, cilantro, garlic, olive oil, cumin, paprika, 2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper to a smooth paste. Rub the paste into the salmon’s cavity and side slashes. Cut the preserved lemon peel into pieces and stuff them into the cavity along with the fennel slices. Poke the tip of a sharp paring knife through the belly flaps at even intervals, then weave the toothpicks through the holes to close the cavity. Let stand at room temperature while preparing the grill. Prepare a hot charcoal or gas grill fire for direct grilling. Clean and oil

the grill grates 3 times at 10-minute intervals, covering the grill between oilings. Adjust a gas grill to medium heat (325°F to 350°F); for a charcoal grill, wait until you can hold your hand about 6 inches above the grate for 4 seconds. Measure the thickness of the fish right behind its gills and calculate 10 minutes of grilling time per inch for medium rare. Thoroughly pat the salmon dry with paper towels, wiping any excess paste off the skin. Dust one side of the fish with flour and then brush liberally with oil. Oil the grill again and place the fish on the grill floured side down, with the belly facing you. Leave enough room behind it to roll the salmon over later. Cover and grill the fish for half of the calculated time. Wrap the tail fin with foil if it begins to scorch. Dust the top side of the fish with flour, and brush liberally with oil. Slide 2 large spatulas underneath the fish, gently loosening any places where the skin may have stuck, and roll it over onto the second side. Cover and continue to grill for the remaining time, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted horizontally into the thickest part of the fish without touching bone registers 125°F for medium rare, 135°F for medium, and 145°F for well done. Carefully slide the two spatulas under the fish at the head and tail ends and transfer to a platter. Tent loosely with foil and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Serve the salmon with the fennel stuffing.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

65


SEAFOOD

north african grilled shrimp This shrimp is a fun twist on shrimp cocktail with a tarator-style sauce. Serves 10 as a first course or 6 as a main course 2½ lb. 20- to 24-count shrimp, peeled and deveined ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for the grill 2 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves removed and coarsely chopped 2 cups pine nuts 3 slices whole-wheat bread, crusts removed and torn into pieces ½ cup fresh lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, peeled ¾ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 3 cup water 6 or 10 skewers (if using bamboo, soak in water for 30 minutes)

Place the shrimp in a single layer in a large shallow baking dish. Pour the olive oil over them, sprinkle with the sliced garlic, add the rosemary, and tuck them down among the shrimp. Cover and refrigerate for about 4 hours. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Place the pine nuts, bread, lemon juice, peeled garlic,

66

GRILLING 2018

salt, pepper, and water in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse 5 or 6 times to combine, then process for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and process for another 30 seconds or until smooth. Remove to another container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve. Remove the shrimp from the refrigerator. Thread about 5 shrimp onto each of 10 skewers for a first course, or about 8 shrimp onto each of 6 skewers for a main course. Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes. Place the shrimp on the grill and close the lid. Cook for about 2 minutes, turn, and cook for another 2 minutes. The shrimp should have a gentle C shape to them. Remove from the grill and either place the skewers on a platter or slide the shrimp off the skewers onto the platter. Serve hot or at room temperature, with the sauce.

Pine nuts are a great addition to salads, pesto, pasta dishes, and sauces like the version of tarator here. Pine nuts have a high oil content and can become rancid quickly. Taste a few before using; you’ll detect a bitter off-flavor when it’s time to toss them.


grilled tuna with charred corn and watermelon salsa This might look like typical salsa, but—surprise!— it’s made with watermelon. The fresh, sweet flavor of the melon and corn is balanced by minced chile and garlic. Serves 4 2 medium ears corn, husked 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice 2 tsp. minced jalapeño 1 small clove garlic, minced Kosher salt 1 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. olive oil Freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup small-diced seedless watermelon ¼ cup chopped red onion 2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions 2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil 4 tuna steaks (about 5 oz. each)

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until the kernels are charred in places and crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. Cut the kernels from the cob. In a medium bowl, combine the lime juice, jalapeño, garlic, and ¼ tsp. salt. Whisk in 2 tsp. of the oil, and season generously with black pepper. Stir in the corn, watermelon, onion, scallions, and basil; set aside. Brush the tuna with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, and season generously with salt. Grill until done to your liking, 2 to 3 minutes per side for rare to medium rare. Serve with the salsa.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

67


SEAFOOD

grilled salmon with aleppo-honey glaze, turnips, and kale Zesty ginger-spiked vegetables are the perfect foil to this richly glazed fish. Serves 4 FOR THE ALEPPO-HONEY GLAZE ¼ cup honey 3 Tbs. black bean paste or sauce 2 Tbs. Aleppo pepper, or 1 Tbs. each crushed red pepper flakes and sweet paprika 1½ Tbs. toban djan or other chili paste ¾ cup Sweety Drops (see p. 94) or coarsely chopped sweet Peppadew peppers 1 3 cup rice vinegar FOR THE TURNIPS AND GINGER 2½ cups dashi broth 1¼ cups mirin ¾ lb. turnips, peeled and thinly sliced, preferably on a mandoline 8 oz. peeled fresh ginger, cut into 1-inch pieces FOR THE SALMON AND KALE 4 6-oz. skinless center-cut salmon fillets 1½ Tbs. olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 oz. dinosaur kale, stems removed and leaves thinly sliced crosswise 2 slices bacon (about 2 oz.), cooked and chopped 4 scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish MAKE THE GLAZE

In a medium bowl, combine the honey, bean paste, Aleppo pepper, and toban djan. Purée the peppers and rice vinegar in a blender, and whisk into the honey mixture. COOK THE TURNIPS AND GINGER

Bring the dashi and mirin to a simmer in a large pot over medium heat. Add the turnips and ginger, and cook until the turnips are tender, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat, and let cool in the broth, about 15 min-

68

GRILLING 2018

utes. Remove and discard the ginger. Strain the turnips from the liquid and reserve. GRILL THE SALMON AND COOK THE KALE

Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the salmon lightly on both sides with ½ Tbs. of the oil and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Grill the fish, flipping once, until medium rare (140°F). Remove from the grill and brush

each fillet with 1 tsp. of the glaze. Reserving any remaining glaze. Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the kale and cook,

tossing until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the turnips and bacon, toss to combine, and season with salt and pepper. To serve, divide the vegetables among 4 plates. Top with the grilled fish, and sprinkle with the scallions. Pass the remaining glaze at the table.


grilled swordfish with lemon, dill, and cucumber sauce Delicate and light, this sauce has a loose texture that’s somewhere between a vinaigrette and a salad. It complements most any grilled fish, so feel free to substitute salmon, tuna, or halibut steaks for the swordfish. Serves 6; yields 2 cups sauce FOR THE SAUCE 1 medium English cucumber, peeled and finely diced to yield 2 cups 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. granulated sugar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbs. minced fresh dill 1 Tbs. minced shallot 2 tsp. minced fresh mint FOR THE SWORDFISH 1½ Tbs. olive oil; more for the grill 6 1¼-inch-thick swordfish steaks (6 to 8 oz. each) 1 tsp. kosher salt

MAKE THE SAUCE

Put the cucumber in a medium bowl. Add the lemon juice and the sugar, toss to combine, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the olive oil, dill, shallot, and mint, and add more salt and pepper if necessary. Let sit for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to marry. Taste for seasoning again just before serving and adjust if necessary. GRILL THE SWORDFISH

Clean and oil the grates on a gas grill and heat the grill to medium high, or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Meanwhile, generously coat both sides of the swordfish with

the oil and season both sides with salt. Let the fish sit at room temperature for 15 minutes (while the grill heats). Grill the swordfish steaks directly over the heat source (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), without touching, until they have good grill marks, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the steaks and grill until the second sides have good grill marks and the fish is done to your liking, another 2 to 4 minutes. (Check for doneness by slicing into one of the thicker pieces.) Serve immediately, topped with the cucumber sauce.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

69


SEAFOOD

marinating dos and don’ts Always marinate in a nonreactive vessel, such as a stainless-steel, glass,

or plastic container, or in a heavyduty zip-top plastic bag. Do not marinate in an aluminum container, which will react with acidic ingredients to change the color of the food and give it a metallic flavor. Marinate in a closed container in the refrigerator, making sure that none

of the marinade and raw meat juice can contaminate other foods. Use enough marinade to coat the food. Your food doesn’t need to be

asian citrus-ginger-sesame marinated scallops Most Asian-style marinades are heavy on soy sauce, but it’s used just as an accent in this bright, citrusy marinade. Confectioners’ sugar may seem an odd ingredient here, but it’s an ideal substitute for granulated sugar because it dissolves so easily. This marinade is great for steak, pork, chicken, fish (especially salmon), shellfish, vegetables (especially asparagus and zucchini), or pineapple. Yields about 1 1 3 cups, enough to marinate 1½ lb. food 1 medium orange, finely grated to yield ½ tsp. zest, squeezed to yield 1 3 cup juice 2 medium limes, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest, squeezed to yield ¼ cup juice; more wedges for serving 2 Tbs. Asian sesame oil 2 Tbs. canola oil; more for brushing on the scallops 2 Tbs. lower-sodium soy sauce 5 medium cloves garlic, grated on a rasp 2 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger (from a 2- to 3-inch piece) 1 Tbs. Sriracha or Asian chili garlic sauce 1 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar Fine sea salt 20 to 24 large sea scallops (1½ to 1¾ lb.), all about the same thickness, side muscle removed Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 40 to 48 skewers (optional; if using bamboo, soak in water for 30 minutes)

70

GRILLING 2018

Combine the orange zest and juice, lime zest and juice, sesame and canola oils, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, Sriracha, confectioners’ sugar, and ½ tsp. sea salt in a medium bowl. Add the scallops to the marinade and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Brush each scallop on all sides with canola oil and season with salt and pepper. If you like, thread two scallops each through doubled skewers. (This helps in the cooking and turning process.) Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes. Place the scallops over direct heat and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on one side, and then turn and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. The scallops should be barely opaque in the center and should feel firm to the touch but with some give. The marinade will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

swimming in marinade, but it should be well coated. Go for a short soak. Soak shellfish for about 15 minutes, fish for 20 to 30 minutes, and everything else for 30 minutes to 2 hours. Don’t overmarinate. If your food starts to turn a cloudy grayish-white, take it out of the marinade—the acid and enzymes in the marinade are “cooking” the food. Note that citrus and vinegar marinades are stronger and work more quickly than mayonnaise or buttermilk marinades. Turn the food as it marinates. Do this at least once to make sure all sides of the food are exposed to the marinade. Don’t wipe off the marinade. Just remove food from the marinade and let the excess drip off; what’s left will create a delicious exterior. Salt marinated food just before cooking. There’s not much salt in

these marinades because a salty marinade tends to dry out food. (The exception is a mayonnaise-based marinade, which is salty by nature.) Salting before grilling is important because it brings out the food’s natural flavor. Never use a marinade as a sauce

unless it has been boiled for 3 consecutive minutes to kill any bacteria from the raw food.


grilled mahimahi with pineapple barbecue sauce and grilled sweet onions Mahimahi is meaty but not oily or fishy and holds up to grilling. This barbecue sauce also partners well with pork or chicken. Serves 4 ¼ cup chopped pineapple 2 Tbs. seeded and minced jalapeño 2 Tbs. firmly packed light brown sugar 1 cup of your favorite barbecue sauce 4 6-oz. mahimahi fillets 2 large Vidalia or other sweet onions, cut ½ inch thick 2 Tbs. olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. peanut oil 2 Tbs. unsalted butter 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

Combine the pineapple, jalapeño, and brown sugar in a small saucepan over high heat and cook, stirring, until the pineapple begins to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Pour in the barbecue sauce and cook another 2 minutes. Pour the mixture into a blender or use a handheld blender to process until smooth. Let cool and set aside ¼ cup for basting on the grill. Place the mahimahi in a baking dish and pour the sauce over, completely coating the fish. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours. Light a charcoal fire or preheat your gas grill on high. Oil the grill’s cooking surface. Brush the onion slices with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the onions on the grill and cook for about 3 minutes per side. They should still be slightly firm but warm through. Remove from the grill and tent with aluminum foil. Remove the mahimahi from the sauce and pat dry. Brush each with the peanut oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on the grill and cook for about 4 minutes per side, basting with the barbecue sauce. Remove from the grill and tent with foil. Place the remaining barbecue sauce in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Stir in the butter, lime juice, and cilantro. Puddle some of the sauce on 4 serving plates. Top with the grilled fish and some onion rings and serve immediately.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

71


sesame-ginger tofu and shiitake kebabs, p. 74


meatless mains 74

sesame-ginger tofu and shiitake kebabs

75

crêpes with grilled asparagus in mornay sauce

76

grilled zucchini and cheese sandwiches

76

fire-roasted tomato and cabrales pizza

78

fusilli with charred corn and poblanos

79

chili-cheddar grits with grilled corn and tomatoes

80

cauliflower ”steaks”

81

grilled farmers’ market pasta


M E AT L E S S M A I N S

sesame-ginger tofu and shiitake kebabs Serve these kebabs with brown rice or somen noodles. (See the photo on p. 72.) Yields 8 kebabs; serves 4 1 14-oz. package water-packed extra-firm tofu, well drained ¼ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce 3 Tbs. rice wine (sake or Shaoxing) 3 Tbs. hoisin sauce 2 Tbs. peanut oil 2 Tbs. Asian sesame oil 2 Tbs. chopped fresh ginger 1 Tbs. honey 40 medium shiitake mushrooms (about 1 lb.), stems trimmed 2 bunches scallions (white and light-green parts only), cut into 1-inch lengths to yield 40 pieces 1 orange, preferably Cara Cara Nonstick cooking spray

In a shallow pan, soak eight 12-inch bamboo skewers in water while you work. Sandwich the tofu between paper towels and put on a plate. Set a small heavy pot or cutting board on the tofu to press out excess moisture. Let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Cut the tofu into 40 cubes by first slicing the tofu block in half horizontally and then cutting each half into 20 cubes. In a large bowl, whisk the soy sauce, rice wine, hoisin sauce, peanut oil, sesame oil, ginger, and honey. Add the tofu, mushrooms, and scallions. Marinate at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring frequently but gently. Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Trim the ends of the orange, cut it lengthwise into quarters, and then slice each quarter crosswise into 8 slices, to yield 32 slices total. Thread 5 scallion pieces, 5 shiitakes, 5 pieces of tofu, and 4 orange slices onto each skewer in an alternating pattern. Lightly oil and arrange the skewers on the grill. Grill until nicely browned on one side, 4 to 5 minutes. Gently turn the kebabs over and cook until golden brown on the other side, 4 to 5 minutes more. Meanwhile, pour the remaining marinade into a small (1-quart) saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until slightly reduced and the flavors meld, about 2 minutes. Arrange the kebabs on a serving platter or on individual plates. Drizzle with the sauce and serve.

74

GRILLING 2018


crêpes with grilled asparagus in mornay sauce This is a wonderfully retro dish that will remind you of how delicious a classic cheese sauce can be, not to mention how fun it is to cook crêpes. The recipe looks long, but you can make the sauce and the crêpes a day ahead, and then just grill the asparagus right before you assemble the dish. If you take this do-ahead approach, be sure to reheat the Mornay sauce (on the stove over low heat) and reheat the crêpes, either with a quick zap in the microwave or by wrapping them in foil and popping them in a 350°F oven for 10 minutes. Yields 12 crêpes; serves 6 FOR THE MORNAY SAUCE 2 Tbs. unsalted butter 2 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour 1¾ cups whole milk ¼ tsp. kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper ½ to ¾ cup grated Cheddar or Fontina cheese FOR THE CRÊPES 3 eggs 2 cups milk 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted; more for the pan 1½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. freshly ground white pepper FOR THE ASPARAGUS 5 dozen small to medium asparagus spears, fibrous ends trimmed and discarded 2 Tbs. olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ Tbs. finely chopped fresh chives, for garnish MAKE THE MORNAY SAUCE

In a medium saucepan, combine the butter and flour over medium-high heat and whisk to blend. Cook, whisking constantly, for about 1 minute. Let the mixture (called a roux) cool off the heat. Whisk in the milk, return the pan to medium-low heat, and bring to a simmer, whisking frequently to avoid lumps. Simmer until smooth and glossy and no taste of flour remains, 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Add the salt, several grinds of pepper, and then the cheese, stirring until melted. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Keep warm until ready to assemble the crêpes. MAKE THE CRÊPES

Put the eggs and milk in a blender and blend for about 5 seconds to mix well. Add the flour, butter, salt, and white pepper, and blend for another 20 seconds

to make a smooth batter. Let the batter rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature or ideally overnight in the fridge. COOK THE CRÊPES

Heat a nonstick or well-seasoned frying pan or crêpe pan with a bottom diameter of about 8 inches over medium-high heat. Brush with a thin coat of melted butter (you can use a folded paper towel for this). Pour ¼ cup of batter into the pan and immediately start to tilt and turn the pan so the batter spreads into an even circle. If there are a few empty spots, you can just spoon a few more drops of batter into them. Cook until the underside is nicely browned, about 2 minutes, then flip with your fingers or a small spatula or table knife. Cook the second side until done, another minute or so. The first side will always be prettier, so that’s your presentation side. Transfer to a plate and continue with the rest of the batter, allowing the pan to heat up if it has cooled. GRILL THE ASPARAGUS

Heat the grill (or a stovetop grill pan) to high. Toss the asparagus in the olive oil and season generously with salt and black pepper. Grill the asparagus until tender and slightly charred on the edges, turning once or twice, about 8 minutes, depending on their thickness. ASSEMBLE THE DISH

Place 5 asparagus spears in a crêpe and roll it up. Make another crêpe roll and cut it in half crosswise on a sharp bias. Spoon about 2 Tbs. of warm Mornay sauce onto the center of the plate, then place the whole rolled crêpe on top. Arrange the cut halves on the first crêpe so that you can see the asparagus inside. Drizzle the top of the crêpes with a bit more Mornay sauce; repeat with the rest of the crêpes, sprinkle with the chives, and serve right away.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

75


M E AT L E S S M A I N S

fire-roasted tomato and cabrales pizza Cabrales is a Spanish cheese that has the sharpest, tangiest bite of all the blues. The simple accompanying ingredients in this pizza allow it to sing out loud and proud. Serves 2 to 4 ¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1 ball store-bought or homemade pizza dough, at room temperature 2 Tbs. olive oil 1 cup Onion Marmalade (opposite) 1¼ cups Fire-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes (opposite) 4 oz. Cabrales or your favorite blue cheese, crumbled ¼ cup pecan pieces, toasted and chopped

grilled zucchini and cheese sandwiches Summer tomato and Cheddar on sourdough is a great sandwich on its own. But grilled planks of zucchini add a bit of char flavor to take it to the next level. Serves 4 2 medium zucchini (10 oz.), sliced lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick planks Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 thin slices sourdough bread 2 cups sharp Cheddar cheese, grated 2 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced 4 tsp. mayonnaise

Prepare a high (500°F to 600°F) gas grill fire, or heat a large grill pan. Season the zucchini with salt and pepper and grill, flipping once, until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the zucchini, and reduce the heat to medium high (400°F to 475°F). Assemble 4 sandwiches with the sourdough, Cheddar, tomatoes (seasoned lightly with salt), and the zucchini, layering the cheese under and over the vegetables. Spread about 1 tsp. mayonnaise on the outside of each sandwich. Grill, flipping halfway through, until the bread is toasted and the cheese is melted, about 2 minutes per side.

76

GRILLING 2018

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium. Spread the grits onto a work surface. Roll out and shape the dough, brush with the olive oil, and grill the first side of the crust until the bottom is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Use tongs to transfer it to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. Spread the entire surface with the onion marmalade. Top with the cherry tomatoes and sprinkle with the cheese. Transfer the pizza back onto the grate over indirect heat, close the lid, and grill until the bottom is golden brown and crispy, and the cheese is bubbly, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove the pizza from the grill, garnish with the nuts, and season with pepper. Slice and serve immediately.


onion marmalade Yields 1 cup, enough for 1 pizza 2 Tbs. olive oil 1 Tbs. unsalted butter (or salted and reduce the salt a bit) 3 large yellow onions, thinly sliced and roughly separated into rings 1 tsp. kosher salt

Heat the oil and butter together in a large, heavy sauté pan over low heat. When the butter bubbles, add the onion rings and salt and cook, covered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are all a deep golden color, about 20 more minutes. This will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

fire-roasted cherry tomatoes Yields 40 tomatoes 40 cherry tomatoes 1 tsp. olive oil or as needed to coat ½ cup kosher salt

Preheat a gas grill, build a charcoal fire, or preheat the oven to 275°F. Lightly coat the tomatoes with the oil. Cover a rimmed baking sheet with the salt in an 8-inch circle to form a “salt bed.” Place the tomatoes closely together bottom side down on the salt bed. Place the baking sheet on the grill on the cooking grate over low indirect heat or in the oven. Slowly roast until the tomatoes are shriveled and soft, about 2 hours. Remove from the grill or oven and let cool. They will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

77


M E AT L E S S M A I N S

fusilli with charred corn and poblanos Cilantro pesto acts as a sauce for this summery pasta in which the heat from the poblanos is balanced by sweet corn. Cutting the corn kernels from the cob in planks gives this simple side dish a cool appearance, but it’s delicious even if the planks don’t stay intact. Serves 4 to 6 2 packed cups fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems; more for serving ½ cup olive oil; more as needed 1 3 cup roasted salted pistachios, coarsely chopped 1 tsp. finely grated lime zest 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 medium clove garlic Kosher salt 2 large poblanos 4 large ears corn, husked 1 large red onion, trimmed and cut into 3 or 4 slices 12 oz. fusilli 11 3 cups crumbled queso fresco

78

GRILLING 2018

Combine the cilantro, oil, pistachios, lime zest and juice, garlic, and ¾ tsp. salt in a blender or food processor, and purée until smooth. (The pesto may be made up to 2 days ahead; cover and refrigerate if not using within a couple of hours. Bring to room temperature before tossing with the pasta.) Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Grill the poblanos, turning occasionally, until well charred and tender, 14 to 16 minutes. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until charred in places. Brush each onion slice with a little olive oil and grill, turning occasionally, until tender with some grill marks, about 8 minutes. Transfer the poblanos to a bowl, cover, and let sit until cool enough to handle, about

20 minutes. Transfer the onion and corn to a cutting board. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Rub off the poblano skins, remove the stems and seeds, and cut into ½- to ¾-inch pieces. Using a serrated knife, cut the kernels from the corn cobs, keeping them in planks as much as possible. Peel the onion slices, if necessary, and then coarsely chop. Cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain and return to the pot or transfer to a large bowl. Add the pesto, poblanos, onion, half of the corn, and half of the cheese, and toss well. Serve topped with the remaining corn, cheese, and some cilantro leaves.


chili-cheddar grits with grilled corn and tomatoes A good dose of chili powder adds smoky flavor to quickly made grits. Grilled corn and tomatoes, along with Cheddar, make this a rich main. An arugula salad with peaches and red onions would be a fresh counterpoint to this rich dish. Serves 4 3 medium ears fresh corn, shucked 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. medium plum tomatoes, halved Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup quick-cooking (not instant) grits 4 tsp. chili powder ½ cup thinly sliced scallions, plus 2 Tbs. greens reserved for garnish 4 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar, grated (about 1 cup)

Prepare a high gas or charcoal grill fire. Lightly rub the corn with 1 tsp. of the oil. In a medium bowl, toss the tomatoes with the remaining 2 tsp. oil and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Put the corn and tomatoes, cut side up, on the grill and cover. Grill, turning the corn occasionally (don’t turn the tomatoes), until the corn is browned in places and the tomato skins have darkened and the flesh has softened, 8 to 12 minutes. Set aside 4 tomato halves for garnish and put the remaining tomatoes in a food processor; pulse until smooth. When the corn is cool enough to handle, cut the kernels from the cobs. In a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan, bring 3½ cups of water and 1½ tsp. salt to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the grits, chili powder, and the tomato purée. Bring to a boil and stir in two-thirds of the corn kernels and the scallions. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, partially covered and stirring frequently, until the grits are tender and thick, about 5 minutes. Add the cheese and a few grinds of pepper; stir until the cheese melts. Coarsely chop the reserved tomatoes. Divide the grits among 4 soup bowls and top each with some tomatoes, some of the remaining corn, and the reserved scallions. Serve immediately.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

79


M E AT L E S S M A I N S

shell beans vinaigrette This side dish is good both warm and at room temperature. Use any bean that’s available to you, even black-eyed peas. And when you can’t get fresh, don’t hesitate to use frozen—but don’t use canned. The texture won’t be right. Serves 4 to 6 1 Tbs. olive oil 1 small sweet onion, such as Vidalia, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 bay leaf ¼ tsp. crushed red chile flakes 2 pints shelled purple hull or other peas (or two 10-oz. bags frozen crowder or field peas) 2 cups lower-sodium chicken broth Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup balsamic vinegar ¼ cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme leaves 3 or 4 medium fresh basil leaves, stacked, rolled like a cigar, and thinly sliced

cauliflower “steaks” Cauliflower may not be the first vegetable you think of to grill, but once you try this recipe, you’ll keep reaching for this healthful vegetable on summer nights. Serves 4 2 heads cauliflower, stalky parts and leaves pulled off Olive oil 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. curry powder Shell Beans Vinaigrette (at right)

Taking care to keep the core intact, slice each cauliflower lengthwise into four to six 1-inch-thick “steaks.” Reserve the remaining cauliflower (the rounded end slices) for another use. Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes.

80

GRILLING 2018

Brush the cauliflower steaks liberally with olive oil. Mix together the cumin, coriander, and curry powder, and sprinkle evenly over each. Carefully lay the cauliflower steaks on your grill, close the lid, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes per side, using a large spatula to turn. The steaks may try to come apart on you a little bit. Don’t worry; just try to shove the florets all back into place. Press the cauliflower near the core, and if it gives easily, it’s done. You want it to be a little soft but still fairly crisp. Remove each steak to an individual plate and garnish with some of the shell beans vinaigrette. Serve.

Place a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, and when it begins to shimmer, add the onion. Cook until soft and with just a tiny bit of color, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, bay leaf, and crushed red chile flakes. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Pour in the peas and broth and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook until the peas are tender but still maintain their shape, about 20 minutes. A lot of the liquid will have been absorbed, so watch carefully so that you don’t burn the peas on the bottom. Season with salt and pepper. Drain the peas if desired (most of the liquid will evaporate) and add to a large bowl. Whisk together the vinegar and olive oil. Pour this over the warm peas and toss to thoroughly combine. Add the herbs and toss again. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate. The peas can be served warm, at room temperature, or chilled.


grilled farmers’ market pasta A colorful mix of garden-fresh vegetables gets a simple treatment (a toss with garlic, basil, and cheese) to let their flavors shine. Serves 4 to 6 8 scallions, trimmed

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more as needed

2 orange, yellow, or red bell peppers, quartered lengthwise, stemmed, and seeded

1 cup thinly sliced fresh basil; more for serving

2 medium beefsteak tomatoes, cored 1 medium bulb fennel, trimmed and sliced lengthwise through the core about ¼ inch thick 1 medium yellow squash, trimmed and sliced lengthwise about ¼ inch thick 1 medium zucchini, trimmed and sliced lengthwise about ¼ inch thick 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped 8 oz. short pasta, such as farfalle or penne

6 oz. ricotta salata, crumbled or coarsely grated, or cubed mozzarella (about 2 cups)

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Put the vegetables in a large bowl. Toss with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill, flipping all but the tomatoes occasionally and removing the vegetables as they are done, until tender with grill marks, 10 to 25 minutes. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.

When just cool enough to handle, cut the fennel into ¼-inch dice. Cut the rest of the vegetables into bite-size pieces. (The skin of the tomato may come off, which is fine; discard it.) Put the garlic in the large bowl, then scrape the vegetables and any juice into the bowl. Cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain and add to the bowl. Add the lemon juice, basil, and half of the cheese, and toss well. If necessary, moisten with a good drizzle of olive oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and serve topped with the rest of the cheese and more basil, if you like.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

81


grilled antipasto of green and yellow zucchini with black olive–lemon vinaigrette, p. 84


sides 84

grilled antipasto of green and yellow zucchini with black olive–lemon vinaigrette

84

smoky spiced grilled okra

85

charred leeks with caperherb sauce

86

grilled chickpea flatbread

87

grilled corn on the cob

87

buttery balsamic corn with shiitake and grilled onion

88

couscous salad with grilled eggplant and cumin vinaigrette

89

grilled corn and orzo salad with basil

89

spicy black bean, jĂ­cama, and mango salad


SIDES

grilled antipasto of green and yellow zucchini with black olive–lemon vinaigrette A little goat cheese surprise lies in wait beneath the grilled squash in this dish (pictured on p. 82). It’s called an antipasto, but it’s really kind of a warm salad. If you see deep yellow zucchini, include it in the mix with the green. But skip (paler yellow) summer squash, which sheds a lot of moisture when cooked. Serves 6 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbs. chopped pitted Kalamata olives 1 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar 1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano 1 tsp. (packed) finely grated lemon zest ½ tsp. honey Kosher salt 1½ lb. green and yellow zucchini (about 3 medium-large), ends trimmed, sliced on the diagonal into 3 8-inch slices 3 to 4 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled ¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 2 Tbs. toasted pine nuts

Heat a gas grill to medium high. Scrape the grill grates clean. To make the dressing, combine 3 Tbs. of the olive oil with the olives, balsamic vinegar, oregano, lemon zest, honey, and 1 8 tsp. salt. Whisk well and set aside. Toss the squash slices with the remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil and ½ tsp. salt. Arrange the squash slices directly on the grill grate and close the lid. (The grill will be crowded.) Cook, checking the slices after 2 minutes, until the bottom of each slice is nicely browned in places, 3 to 4 minutes. (After 2 minutes, you can turn the slices on an angle to make crosshatch marks if you like.) Carefully turn each slice over as it browns, close the lid again, and cook until the other side is lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer all of the squash slices to a baking sheet or a few plates. Don’t stack or they’ll overcook. Choose a platter or plates and sprinkle the goat cheese over it (or them). Arrange the warm squash slices, slightly overlapping, over the goat cheese as you like. (Try pinwheelstyle for small plates.) Whisk the dressing and spoon over all. Scatter the parsley and pine nuts over. Serve warm.

84

GRILLING 2018

smoky spiced grilled okra These make a delicious side dish, or serve them as finger foods with cocktails. You can play with the spice combinations, adding more chili powder and cayenne to increase the heat quotient. The recipe makes more spice than you’ll need for one recipe; keep the extra in a small jar or zip-top bag. Serves 4 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. pimentón (sweet smoked paprika) ½ tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. freshly ground white pepper ½ tsp. cayenne ¼ tsp. garlic powder 1 lb. okra, rinsed and dried 2 Tbs. olive oil 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

Heat a grill to high. Put the salt, chili powder, pimentón, coriander, cumin, white pepper, cayenne, and garlic powder in a small bowl and stir to mix. Trim the tips of the okra stems but don’t cut into the pods. Whisk the oil and mustard together in a large bowl, add the okra, and toss to coat. Add 2 tsp. of the spice mixture and toss again to distribute thoroughly. Grill the okra, turning frequently, until they are slightly softened and nicely browned, 2 to 4 minutes. (Make sure you position the okra so they don’t slip between the grill grates. Use a grill basket if you have one.) Arrange on plates or a platter and serve right away.


charred leeks with caper-herb sauce Sweet grilled leeks topped with a tangy herb sauce are ideal as a first course or as a side to grilled steak. Because you cook the leeks intact, try to find ones that are about the same size. Serves 4 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons) 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt ¼ cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed ¼ cup chopped fresh basil ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 Tbs. capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped 2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped 1 8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 4 medium leeks Freshly ground black pepper

In a medium bowl, whisk the lemon zest and juice, mustard, and ¼ tsp. salt. In a slow, steady stream, whisk in the oil. Add the basil, parsley, capers, anchovies, and pepper flakes, and stir. Trim the dark-green tops from the leeks, leaving the white and light-green parts. Trim any scraggly roots but keep the root end intact. Halve the leeks lengthwise, then remove and discard any tough outer layers. Rinse the leeks well under cool running water.

Fill a wide pot (an 8-quart works well) with 3 inches of well-salted water. Bring to a boil, add the leeks, and cook until just tender when pierced with a knife, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill, or heat a large grill pan over medium-high heat. Brush the leeks lightly with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill, flipping once, until charred and tender, about 6 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and drizzle with some of the herb sauce. Serve warm or at room temperature with the remaining herb sauce and a sharp knife for cutting.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

85


SIDES

grilled chickpea flatbread Chickpeas keep this flatbread tender and moist; just make sure they’re well drained, or the dough will be too wet. Yields 6 flatbreads 1 Tbs. honey 18 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed 2¼ tsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. active dry yeast 2 Tbs. olive oil; more for the bowl and for brushing 2 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted 2 tsp. coriander seeds, toasted 1 small yellow onion 1¼ cups canned chickpeas, rinsed, drained, and coarsely mashed Melted butter for brushing

Dissolve the honey in 1½ cups lukewarm water. Using a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, mix the flour, 1½ tsp. of the salt, and the yeast on low speed for 2 minutes. With the mixer running, gradually add the honey water and the olive oil. Increase the speed to medium and mix until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl and is smooth yet slightly tacky to the touch, about 5 minutes. If the dough seems too wet, add more flour, 1 tsp. at a time. Return to low speed and mix for 2 minutes more. Let the dough rest in the bowl for 5 minutes and then turn the mixer to medium-high speed and mix for 3 minutes more, as the dough vigorously slaps against the side of the bowl. Lightly oil a large bowl. Transfer the dough to the bowl and turn the dough to coat it with the oil. Cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours. Using a mortar and pestle, coarsely grind the cumin, coriander, and the remaining ¾ tsp. salt. Set aside. Cut the onion in half crosswise. Heat a cast-iron griddle or a small cast-iron skillet over high heat until very hot. Put the onion halves cut side down on the hot surface and cook until just charred, 5 to 7 minutes. Cool slightly and then remove the skin and chop finely. Put the onion in a medium bowl and stir in the chickpeas and about two-thirds of the spice mixture. With lightly floured hands, gently deflate the dough. Add the chickpea mixture to the top of the dough, and using a plastic bowl

86

GRILLING 2018

scraper, reach down to the bottom of the bowl and gently fold the dough onto itself 4 times, rotating the bowl with each fold, to incorporate the mixture. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, stretch slightly to form into a log, and cut into 6 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball by gently stretching and tucking the dough underneath itself to form a “belly button” on the bottom. Gently roll in the palm of your hand to reshape into a uniform ball, then set each ball, belly button side down, on a well-floured baking sheet. Lightly brush each top with olive oil. Cover loosely with a towel or plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare a medium gas grill fire or an indirect charcoal fire with a hot zone and a cool zone (an oven thermometer placed over the hot zone should register about 450°F). Brush the grill grates with a stiff brush, then wipe with a lightly oiled paper towel. On a lightly floured surface, roll out or press and stretch each piece of dough with your fingertips until about ¼ inch thick and about 8 inches in diameter. Put the flatbreads on 2 lightly floured baking sheets and lightly brush the tops of the dough with melted butter, being careful not to get butter on the baking sheet. Put the flatbreads buttered side down on the grill (over the hot zone of the charcoal fire), cover, and cook until puffed and good grill marks form, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the flatbreads and turn the burners of a gas grill down to low (or move the breads to the cool zone of the charcoal grill), and brush the grill-marked side with more butter. Cover and finish cooking until the bottoms have good grill marks and the breads are cooked through, about 3 minutes more. Transfer the breads to a cutting board, brush with more of the butter, and dust with the remaining spice mixture. Cut into wedges and serve warm. Make ahead: This can be prepared ahead and refrigerated or frozen. After the dough has been shaped into uniform balls, put them in separate oiled zip-top plastic bags and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 1 month. Thaw frozen dough overnight in the refrigerator. Allow thawed or refrigerated dough to come to room temperature and double in size, about 1½ hours, before continuing as directed in the recipe.


grilled corn on the cob Grilling is a great alternative to boiling corn on the cob because it gives the corn a toasty flavor. With this method, the single layer of husk that’s left on the corn protects it from charring all over, which can overpower the sweetness of the corn and dry it out. Serves 4 4 ears fresh corn on the cob, husks intact

Prepare a medium to mediumhigh charcoal or gas grill fire (about 400°F). Meanwhile, remove all but the innermost layer of the corn husks. Gently bend back this remaining layer of husk without detaching it so that you can remove the silk. (Don’t worry about getting all the silk off—the

rest will cook off or soften on the grill.) Pull the husks back into place so that the corn is loosely covered. Put the corn on the grill and cover. Turn when the husk is nicely browned on one side, 2 to 3 minutes. Continue to cook and turn until the corn husk is toasted on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes total. Serve immediately.

buttery balsamic corn with shiitake and grilled onion While grilling the onion for this colorful side dish, throw some steak or fresh tuna on the grate as well—dinner, done. Serves 4 1 small red onion, trimmed and cut into 3 or 4 slices 1 tsp. olive oil; more as needed 2 Tbs. unsalted butter 7 to 8 oz. fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and coarsely chopped Kosher salt 2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 3 to 4 medium ears) 1 tsp. balsamic vinegar; more to taste

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Rub each onion slice with a little olive oil, and grill, turning occasionally, until tender with some grill marks, about 8 minutes. Remove from the grill and coarsely chop. In a 12-inch skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter and the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shiitake, and season well with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and almost tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the corn, onion, and the remaining 1 Tbs. butter, and cook, tossing occasionally, until the corn is tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the balsamic vinegar, season to taste with salt, pepper, and more vinegar, and serve.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

87


SIDES

couscous salad with grilled eggplant and cumin vinaigrette Steamed couscous is a little fluffier, but this method—simply drizzling couscous with hot water and letting it swell—is much quicker and perfectly fine when you’re dressing the couscous with vinaigrette. Look for firm, shiny eggplant. Be sure to cut it into nice, thick slices and be patient at the grill. You want rich, charcoalbrown grill marks. Serves 6 to 8 1 cup Israeli couscous Kosher salt 2 cups couscous ½ cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed 1 medium onion, thinly sliced Crushed red pepper flakes 1 small, ripe, fragrant tomato 2 medium cloves garlic, pounded to a smooth paste with a pinch of salt 2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. red-wine vinegar; more as needed 1½ tsp. cumin seed, toasted and coarsely ground ½ lb. globe eggplant, about 1 large or 2 small, cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices 1 3 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 3 cup fresh cilantro leaves ¼ cup roughly chopped fresh mint

Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or gas grill. Bring 1¼ cups water to a boil in a small pot. Add the Israeli couscous and ½ tsp. salt. Cover, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until tender, about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain well and set aside. Put the 2 cups couscous in a shallow baking dish (about 9 inches square). In a small pot, bring 1 cup water to a boil and add 1 tsp. salt. Pour the boiling water over the couscous, making sure all of the grains are moist, and immediately cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap. Let swell for about 12 minutes. Transfer the couscous to a large work bowl. Drizzle 1 Tbs. olive oil over the couscous and, using your fingers, lightly rub it into the couscous to break up any clumps and fluff the grains. Add the Israeli couscous to the bowl and fluff again with your fingers to combine. Set aside at room temperature. Warm a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add ¼ cup olive oil, the onion, and a

88

GRILLING 2018

generous pinch of red pepper flakes. Season with salt and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is caramelized and dark brown, 15 to 20 minutes. (You’ll need to stir the onion more frequently when it begins to darken so it browns evenly.) Transfer to a paper towel– lined plate to drain. To make the vinaigrette, cut the tomato in half. Put a box grater in a medium bowl (or in a bowl comfortable enough to grate in) and grate the cut side of the tomato halves against the largest holes. Discard the tomato skin. Add the garlic, vinegar, cumin, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the remaining ¼ cup olive oil. Taste and add a little more salt or vinegar if necessary. Brush both sides of the eggplant with olive oil and season with salt. Grill over a mediumhot fire until the eggplant is golden brown and marked from the grill; be patient and wait for 3 to 4 minutes before you move the eggplant so you end up with nice, charcoalbrown grill marks. Turn the eggplant and grill on the opposite side until the eggplant is soft and tender, about 4 more minutes.

Remove from the grill and set aside at room temperature. When cool enough to handle, cut the eggplant into ½-inch-wide strips or ½-inch squares. Add the caramelized onion to the bowl of couscous, drizzle with the vinaigrette, and lightly toss to combine. Taste and add more salt, vinegar, or olive oil if necessary. Add the eggplant and herbs and toss once more. Spoon the salad onto a platter or individual plates. Serve at room temperature.


grilled corn and orzo salad with basil Great at room temperature, this zesty pasta salad is perfect for a picnic, potluck, or buffet. It’s versatile, too—any small pasta works well, and you can swap out the basil for fresh parsley or cilantro, if you like. Serves 4 2 medium ears corn, shucked and silks removed 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for brushing Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup dried orzo ½ cup finely chopped fresh basil 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice ¼ tsp. hot sauce; more to taste

Prepare a medium-high (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the corn with oil and season with salt and pepper. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Grill the corn, turning often, until crisp-tender and charred in some spots, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the orzo according to package directions. Drain and transfer to a medium bowl. When the corn is cool enough to handle, cut the kernels off the cobs. Stir the kernels into the orzo, along with the basil, 3 Tbs. of oil, lime juice, ½ tsp. salt, and hot sauce. Season to taste with more salt and hot sauce. Serve warm or at room temperature. Make ahead: The salad can be made up to 2 hours ahead and kept at room temperature.

spicy black bean, jícama, and mango salad This simple side dish combines sweet, spicy, sour, and crunchy elements. It pairs beautifully with grilled chicken or fish. Serves 6 1 15-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed 1 cup diced jícama 1 cup diced mango 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro 1½ Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. Sriracha ½ tsp. Asian (toasted) sesame oil Kosher salt

In a medium bowl, combine the beans, jícama, mango, cilantro, lime juice, Sriracha, sesame oil, and ¾ tsp. salt. Toss, season to taste with more salt, and serve.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

89


test kitchen Ĺ? Ä‘ Ĺ? Ĺ? Ä‘ Ĺ?

Wait to grill until the red coals are covered with ash, then the fire is ready.

90

GRILLING 2018


TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE

Light the grill To light a gas grill: Follow the manufacturer’s directions for lighting. Be sure to give a gas grill plenty of preheating time so that the grill and the grates are really hot when you start cooking. Crank all the burners up to the highest setting to heat (you can always adjust one or more burners later). To light a charcoal grill: The easiest way to start a charcoal fire is with a chimney starter. Load the top of the metal canister with charcoal, stuff newspaper in the bottom, and light the paper with a match. Updraft spreads the fire from the paper to the charcoal, and in about 30 minutes, all your coals are glowing. Turn the starter over (beware: the handle will be hot) to dump the coals into the grill. Don’t begin grilling until the red coals are covered with a light ash, which indicates a hot fire. When the fire is medium hot, the coals will be more thickly covered and the ash will look yellowish.

TECHNIQUE

How to build a two-zone fire A two-zone fire, where one area is hotter than the other, is a good idea for almost every kind of grilling. With a two-zone fire, you can easily move food around if it’s cooking too quickly or too slowly. A two-zone fire lets you easily sear large pieces of meat and then let it finish cooking low and slow. To build a two-zone fire using a charcoal grill, bank most of the hot coals to one side of the grill or on the outer edges of the grill. This gives you the option of direct grilling (putting the food right over the coals) or indirect grilling (putting the food on the cooler side of the grill, farthest from the hot coals, and covering the grill to create an ovenlike atmosphere). You can create a similar effect on a gas grill by keeping one or more burners at medium-high heat and one at low heat.

When and why should you use direct heat or indirect heat? To some degree, your success as a griller hinges on your ability to use direct and indirect heat appropriately. Direct grilling means the food is set right over the fire. Indirect grilling means the food is set to the side of the fire, not directly over it. To understand when and why you should use each method, it helps to think about the different types of heat transfer occurring in a grill. First, there’s the very intense radiant heat emanating from the coals or gas flames. Second, the hot grill grates deliver heat by conduction. And finally, there’s convection, which is the hot air circulating around the food when the lid is down. DIRECT GRILLING uses intense radiant heat. When your food is right above the fire, the strong heat energy radiating off the coals or burners is doing most of the cooking. This type of heat is very effective at searing a steak, charring red peppers, and producing all the delicious caramelized flavors that come from high-heat cooking. Conduction also plays a role, as the blazing hot grates are what form those nice grill marks. The trouble with direct grilling is that it’s all too easy to burn the outside of your food before the inside is fully cooked. (If you’ve ever tried to grill, say, a large roast or even large pieces of bone-in chicken directly over a hot fire, you’ve experienced this.) Think of direct grilling in the same context as broiling or even sautéing: The proximity to the heat is perfect for browning meat, and it’s also ideal for cooking thin, tender items like shrimp or boneless chicken breasts. Or follow the advice of Jamie Purviance, the author of Weber’s Real Grilling: Use direct heat for anything that will cook through in less than 20 minutes: hamburgers, thin chops, pork tenderloin, and most vegetables.

INDIRECT GRILLING relies on convection. There are a few ways to set up a grill for indirect cooking, but in all cases, your food goes over an area of the grate without fire beneath it. When you close the lid and open the vents, cool air is sucked into the grill, forcing the hot air inside to circulate. This movement of hot air cooks the food more quickly and evenly. In effect, you’ve turned your grill into a convection oven, with the air vents acting as the fan. Indirect grilling is the way to go for large, tough, or fatty meats like whole chicken, spareribs, pork shoulder, or anything that would likely burn before it cooked through over direct heat. Fattier meats have fewer flare-ups when grilled indirectly; since the fat isn’t dripping onto flames, it won’t ignite. Of course, you can combine both methods for the best of both worlds (see How to Build a Two-Zone Fire at left). For example, you could start a very thick pork chop over the fire to develop grill marks and a nicely browned crust and then slide it over to an area with no heat to finish grilling indirectly, taking advantage of the milder, more even heat of convection.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

91


test kitchen

TECHNIQUE

How to spatchcock

With the bird breast side down, use poultry shears or a sharp kitchen knife to cut along each side of the backbone to remove it.

Turn the bird over and press down on the breasts with the heels of your hands to flatten it a little; you may hear the wishbone crack. If necessary, turn the legs so the meatier side is on the same plane as the breast.

INGREDIENT

Salmon Savvy Choosing which salmon to buy at the fish counter can be a little confusing. The first hurdle is understanding wild versus farmed. Wild salmon is exclusively from Alaska and the Pacific Northwest, while most farmed salmon is from the Atlantic. Wild salmon run from May through September or October. During that time, fresh wild salmon is more readily available, but wild salmon is available frozen year-round, as is farmed. All are good choices. With advances in both freezing technology and farming practices, the differences in flavor and texture can be virtually undetectable. For best quality, ask your fishmonger, or carefully read the label for information on origins. For more specific information on choosing salmon, visit seafoodwatch.org.

92

GRILLING 2018

TIP

Why do foods stick to the grill? Proteins in meat or fish are the biggest cause of sticking. When proteins are heated, they first unfold into strands and then start to coil up into new, tighter forms. Initially, these strands will bond with the grates. But as they continue to coagulate, the proteins bond more with themselves. So if you wait to flip, meat or fish will more or less naturally release from the grill. It also helps to keep the grill grates hot and clean and to oil the food well. Because sugary sauces can cause sticking due to sugars caramelizing and bonding to the grates, try to brush sweet sauces on at the end to avoid sticking.

TIP

When is it done? When using an instant-read thermometer to check the doneness of meat on the grill, keep in mind that temperatures go up 5 to 10 degrees as meat rests off the heat. Pull food off the grill a few degrees shy of the temperatures listed below. TYPE OF MEAT

IDEAL TEMPERATURE (IN °F)

Chicken and turkey

breast: 160° to 165° thigh: 170° to 175°

Beef and lamb

rare: 120° to 130° medium rare: 130° to 135° medium: 140° to 150° medium well: 155° to 165°

Veal

medium: 140° to 155°

Pork

medium: 140° medium well: 155° to 165°

Fish

medium rare: 120° medium: 135°


Get Ready to Grill

Both grilling and fine cutlery have been at the heart of Japanese culinary tradition for centuries. In this tradition, the artisans who make Shun fine cutlery produce blades of unparalleled quality. Each beautiful knife requires at least 100 handcrafted steps to complete and is made of only the finest premium materials. As you fire up the grill this season, choose Shun and choose the very best in high-performance cutlery.

Handcrafted in Japan shuncutlery.com

@shuncutlery


INGREDIENT

Sweety Drops Thanks to chef Marcus Samuelsson, we’ve learned about a flavorful little pepper: Sweety Drops. Samuelsson uses these Peruvian miniature peppers in his Grilled Salmon with Aleppo-Honey Glaze, Turnips, and Kale on p. 68. The tiny teardrop-

shaped peppers (sometimes called Inca Red Drops) have a sweet taste with a touch of heat, similar to Peppadews. Try them in salads, on pizza, in pastas, or as a topping for baked potatoes.

TECHNIQUE

Deboning a chicken breast If you want to cook boneless chicken breasts with their skin, as is done for the Grilled Peri-Peri Chicken on p. 54, you will most likely have to debone them yourself since chicken breasts are rarely sold this way. It’s not a difficult skill to learn, but remember to use a sharp knife with a thin blade to make the task easier.

1

Working skin side down with the narrower end of the breast facing you, start by sliding your knife between the breastbone and flesh.

4

Slide the blade under the rib bones, working toward the outer edge of the breast.

94

GRILLING 2018

2

Let the bones guide your knife, and continue cutting with short strokes until you reach the joint at the top of the breast.

5

Cut through the flesh and connective tissue, and separate the breast from the bones.

3

With the tip of the knife, cut around the shoulder joint where the wing was attached.

6

Flip the breast over skin side up to trim and smooth the skin.


THE THICKER THE PORK CHOP THE BETTER THE GRILLING WITH NEW THICKER & STRONGER

IF YOU CARE 100% Recycled Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil RECIPE

Sustainable. FSC and &RPSRVWDEOH &HUWL¿ HG Non-GMO. Non-Toxic. Gluten and Allergen Free. Totally Chlorine Free. Vegan. Vegetarian. Renewable Resources. All Natural.

‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡

1 pork chop 1/4 cup peach preserves 2 tbsp dijon mustard 1 tsp hot sauce 2 tsp whole black peppercorns FORYH RI JDUOLF ¿ QHO\ minced WVS UHG FKLOL SHSSHU À DNHV 1 tsp smoked paprika Salt and pepper for seasoning IF YOU CARE Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil

Peach Glazed Pork Makes 1 Serving 1. Mix together peach preserves, mustard, hot VDXFH SHSSHUFRUQV JDUOLF FKLOL SHSSHU À DNHV and smoked paprika. 2. Season 1 pork chop with salt and pepper and coat with the peach mixture. 3. Seal in aluminum foil packet. 4. Grill over high heat, turning, 18 minutes. 5. Garnish and serve.

ifyoucare.com F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

95


CREDITS Many of the recipes and photos in this issue have appeared previously in Fine Cooking. Listed here are the original authors and issue numbers. Unless otherwise noted, all photos are by Scott Phillips.

easy apps Tomato and Olive Pizzettas with Fennel Seeds and Aged Goat Cheese, Allison Ehri Krietler, #86 Grilled Tomatoes with Burrata and Parsley Salad, Liz Pearson, #148 Grilled Onion and Sage Flatbread, Judith Fertig, #124 Grilled Vegetable Bruschetta, Susie Middleton, #51 Grilled Endive with Gorgonzola and Pecans, Diana Edwards, #147 Grilled Sliders, from Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson, photo: Ben Fink Grilled Zucchini and Cheese Roll-Ups, Susie Middleton, #79

salads Greek Spinach Salad with Grilled Flap Steak and Marinated Feta, Jennifer Armentrout, #141 Grilled Peach and Chicken Salad with Fresh Mint Vinaigrette, from Fresh Food Nation by Martha Holmberg, photo: Kathryn Barnard Fattoush-ish Bread Salad, Susie Middleton, #148 Grilled Shrimp Salad with AnchovyYogurt Dressing, Ronne Day, #136 Grilled Potato and Escarole Salad; Grilled Potato, Salmon, and Lentil Salad with Mustard Cream Sauce, Ris Lacoste, #141 Thai Watercress and Steak Salad, Laura B. Russell, #140

beef Grilled Hamburgers, FC Staff, #41 Grilled Skirt Steak with Adobo Butter, Liz Pearson, #143 Boneless Barbecue Short Ribs, from Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson, photo: Ben Fink

Korean Flank Steak Tacos, Christine Gallary, #146 Miso-Marinated Beef, Chicken, and Vegetables, Lisa Lahey, #148 Sake-Marinated Steak, Diana Andrews, #147 Marinated Steak with Grilled Scallions, from Big Buy Cooking by Fine Cooking, photo: Maren Caruso Indonesian Beef Satay, Pete Evans, #130 Red Chile–Coriander Rib-Eye Steaks, from Southern Heat by Anthony Lamas and Gwen Pratesi, photo: Roger Pratesi Argentine-Style Burger; Chimichurri Sauce, Bob Sloan, #73

and Broccolini, Ronne Day, #142 Barbecued Buttermilk-Marinated Chicken Breasts, Elizabeth Karmel, #142 Tequila-Lime Chicken Thighs, Diana Andrews, #146 Penne with Grilled Chicken, Portabellas, and Scallions, Clifford Wright, #34 Grilled Turkey Burgers, FC Staff, #41 Grilled Chicken Wings, from Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson, photo: Ben Fink

Fire-Roasted Tomato and Cabrales Pizza, from Pizza on the Grill by Elizabeth Karmel and Bob Blumer, photo: Christopher Hirsheimer Fusilli with Charred Corn and Poblanos, Marge Perry and David Bonom, #147 Chili-Cheddar Grits with Grilled Corn and Tomatoes, Pam Anderson, #111 Cauliflower “Steaks,” from Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson, photo: Ben Fink Grilled Farmers’ Market Pasta, Marge Perry and David Bonom, #147

seafood

sides

Garlicky Lemon-Thyme-Marinated Lamb Chops, Ronne Day, #148 Lamburgers with Blue Cheese and Basil Mayonnaise, Jill Silverman Hough, #142 Grilled Chile-Spiced Pork Tenderloin, Bruce Aidells, #146 Spicy Ground Lamb Kebabs with Onions and Peppers, Diana Andrews, #147 Mediterranean Pork Chops with Cherry Tomato Salsa, Pam Anderson, #79 Glazed Spice-Rubbed Spareribs, Anjali Pathak, #148 Jamaican Jerk Pork, Angela Lawrence, #141 Pork Loin with Chipotle-Orange Bourbon Glaze, from Southern Heat by Anthony Lamas and Gwen Pratesi, photo: Roger Pratesi

Grilled Mussels with Rouille, David Bonom, CookFresh Summer 2015 Grilled Whole Wild Salmon with Preserved Lemon and Fennel, Ivy Manning, #129 North African Grilled Shrimp, from Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson, photo: Ben Fink Grilled Tuna with Charred Corn and Watermelon Salsa, Laraine Perri, #142 Grilled Salmon with Aleppo-Honey Glaze, Turnips, and Kale, Marcus Samuelsson, #147 Grilled Swordfish with Lemon, Dill, and Cucumber Sauce, Maria Helm Sinskey, #86 Asian Citrus-Ginger-Sesame Marinated Scallops, Elizabeth Karmel, #118 Grilled Mahimahi with Pineapple Barbecue Sauce and Grilled Sweet Onions, from Barbecue Nation by Fred Thompson, photo: Brian Hagiwara

Grilled Antipasto of Green and Yellow Zucchini with Black Olive–Lemon Vinaigrette, from Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton, photo: Alexandra Grablewski Smoky Spiced Grilled Okra, from Fresh Food Nation by Martha Holmberg, photo: Kathryn Barnard Charred Leeks with Caper-Herb Sauce, Mindy Fox, #146 Grilled Chickpea Flatbread, Mary Karlin, #105 Grilled Corn on the Cob, Maryellen Driscoll, #100 Buttery Balsamic Corn with Shiitake and Grilled Onion, Joanne Smart, #142 Couscous Salad with Grilled Eggplant and Cumin Vinaigrette, from Salad for Dinner by Tasha DeSerio, photo: Kate Sears Grilled Corn and Orzo Salad with Basil, Judith Fertig, #124 Spicy Black Bean, Jícama, and Mango Salad, Ronne Day, #147

poultry

meatless mains

Grilled Peri-Peri Chicken, Tami Ganales Weiser, #147 Japanese Chicken Kebabs, Pete Evans, #130 Greek-Inspired Grilled Cornish Game Hens with Honey-Garlic Butter, Ronne Day, #147 Tuscan Grain Bowl with Grilled Chicken

Sesame-Ginger Tofu and Shiitake Kebabs, Susie Middleton, #106 Crêpes with Grilled Asparagus in Mornay Sauce, from Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton, photo: Alexandra Grablewski Grilled Zucchini and Cheese Sandwiches, Liz Pearson, #142

pork & lamb

last bite Grilled Fresh Figs with Ice Cream and Honey, Tony Rosenfeld, #80

Look for these cookbooks at bookstores and at Taunton.com.

Some of the recipes and photos in this issue were excerpted from these books:

FRESH FOODNATION

Salad

“AN AMERICAN TREASURE WITH A LATIN BEAT” — BOBBY FLAY

FOR D I N N E R

Simple recipes for salads that make a meal

SOUTHERN HEAT LATIN STYLE New Southern Cooking

Simple, Seasonal Recipes from America’s Farmers

Martha Holmberg Martha Holmberg TASHA DE SERIO

Big Buy Cooking by Fine Cooking (The Taunton Press, 2010); photos © Maren Caruso; food stylist: Katie Christ.

96

Pizza on the Grill by Elizabeth Karmel and Bob Blumer (The Taunton Press, 2008); photos © Christopher Hirsheimer; food+prop styling by Melissa Hamilton.

GRILLING 2018

Barbecue Nation by Fred Thompson (The Taunton Press, 2007); photos © Brian Hagiwara; food stylist: Fred Thompson.

Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson (The Taunton Press, 2009); photos © Ben Fink; food styling by Fred Thompson.

Fresh Food Nation by Martha Holmberg (The Taunton Press, 2013); photos © Kathryn Barnard; food stylist: Callie Meyer.

ANTHONY LAMAS GWEN PRATESI

SUSIE MIDDLETON

AND

Salad for Dinner by Tasha DeSerio (The Taunton Press, 2012); photos © Kate Sears; food styling by William Smith.

Southern Heat by Anthony Lamas and Gwen Pratesi (The Taunton Press, 2015); photos © Roger Pratesi; food stylist: James Herrin.

Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton (The Taunton Press, 2014); photos © Alexandra Grablewski and Susie Middleton; food stylist: Mark Pederson.


AL

E N L

W

SE

A

N SO

5

Satisfy your taste for adventure Join Pete Evans on our newest journey as “Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking” visits Bologna, Parma, Livorno, Turin, Dijon, Paris, and beyond. Plus, our new co-host Curtis Stone takes the reins at five tasty U.S. feasts. Now airing on your local PBS station. For showtimes, recipes, and more, go to finecooking.tv

“Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking” is a production of WGBH Boston and distributed by American Public Television. © 2017 The Taunton Press

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

97


NUTRITION RECIPE

CALORIES (KCAL)

FAT CAL (KCAL)

PROTEIN (G)

CARB (G)

TOTAL FAT (G)

SAT FAT (G)

MONO FAT (G)

POLY FAT (G)

CHOL (MG)

SODIUM (MG)

FIBER (G)

EASY APPS, p. 12

Tomato & Olive Pizzettas w/ Aged Goat Cheese

280

130

9

26

15

4.5

6

1

15

670

1

Grilled Tomatoes with Burrata and Parsley Salad

330

190

13

19

21

9

5

1

40

500

2

Grilled Onion and Sage Flatbread

210

70

5

28

8

1

4.5

.5

0

660

1

Grilled Vegetable Bruschetta

100

70

1

7

8

1

6

1

0

730

2

Grilled Endive with Gorgonzola and Pecans

340

190

8

29

21

7

11

2.5

30

570

5

Grilled Sliders

360

190

18

26

21

9

8

1

75

410

1

45

90

2

1

3.5

1.5

1.5

0

5

190

0

Greek Spinach Salad w/ Grilled Steak & Marinated Feta

570

390

34

11

43

14

24

3.5

100

1190

3

Grilled Peach and Chicken Salad with Fresh Mint

280

110

25

18

12

2

8

1.5

65

420

4

Fattoush-ish Bread Salad

200

90

6

23

10

2.5

6

1

10

400

3

Grilled Shrimp Salad with Anchovy-Yogurt Dressing

390

180

30

23

20

4

11

3.5

185

550

4

Grilled Potato and Escarole Salad

400

200

8

38

25

3.5

10

3

5

420

7

Grilled Potato, Salmon & Lentil Salad w/Mustard Sauce

520

250

24

43

27

11

12

3

70

1160

6

Thai Watercress and Steak Salad

330

180

30

11

20

4

10

3

75

850

2

Grilled Hamburgers

230

100

33

0

11

3.5

5

1

90

380

0

Grilled Skirt Steak with Adobo Butter

260

160

26

2

17

7

7

1.5

90

390

0

Boneless Barbecue Short Ribs

460

140

23

62

16

6

6

2

60

1770

5

Korean Flank Steak Tacos

400

140

32

32

15

4.5

5

3

85

670

3

Miso-Marinated Grilled Beef, Chicken & Vegetables

370

130

44

12

14

4

7

1.5

110

360

2

Sake-Marinated Steak

410

230

38

4

26

11

12

1

95

330

0

Marinated Steak with Grilled Scallions

390

180

45

5

20

5

10

3

100

760

1

Indonesian Beef Satay

260

140

19

10

16

9

5

1.5

45

1020

1

Red Chile-Coriander Rib-Eye Steaks

830

460

70

15

52

16

25

3

220

2670

4

Argentine-Style Burger with Chimichurri Sauce

706

426

42

28

47

12

29

4

126

867

5

Garlicky Lemon-Thyme-Marinated Lamb Chops

390

200

47

3

22

9

10

1.5

135

170

0

Lamburgers with Blue Cheese and Basil Mayonnaise

510

260

35

28

29

11

10

8

85

1040

2

Grilled Chile-Spiced Pork Tenderloin

210

70

30

2

8

2

4.5

1

80

330

1

Spicy Ground Lamb Kebabs with Onions and Peppers

580

310

34

37

35

10

17

2.5

65

1290

7

Mediterranean Pork Chops

180

100

21

0

11

3

5

1.5

60

45

0

Glazed Spice-Rubbed Spareribs

630

390

48

12

43

16

18

6

170

580

2

Jamaican Jerk Pork

360

150

37

12

17

4.5

9

1.5

110

1850

2

Pork Loin with Chipotle-Orange-Bourbon Glaze

490

130

36

41

15

3

9

2

90

2130

3

230

100

29

2

11

2.5

3.5

3.5

80

250

0

Grilled Zucchini and Goat Cheese Roll-Ups SALADS, p. 20

BEEF, p. 32

PORK & LAMB, p. 42

POULTRY, p. 52

Grilled Peri-Peri Chicken

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingredients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on ¼ tsp. salt and 1 8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1 8 tsp. salt and 1 16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

98

GRILLING 2018


RECIPE

CALORIES (KCAL)

FAT CAL (KCAL)

PROTEIN (G)

CARB (G)

TOTAL FAT (G)

SAT FAT (G)

MONO FAT (G)

POLY FAT (G)

CHOL (MG)

SODIUM (MG)

FIBER (G)

Japanese Chicken Kebabs

340

90

25

32

10

2

4

2.5

105

1380

4

Greek-Inspired Cornish Game Hens w/Honey Butter

790

470

48

18

53

18

22

8

300

480

2

Tuscan Grain Bowl with Grilled Chicken and Broccolini

1020

410

57

103

46

6

24

10

95

410

15

Barbecued Buttermilk-Marinated Chicken Breasts

260

130

27

5

14

2

6

5

75

240

0

Tequila-Lime Chicken Thighs

440

200

49

6

23

6

10

5

260

370

0

Penne with Grilled Chicken, Portabellas, and Scallions

900

370

50

83

41

6

27

5

95

1150

8

Grilled Turkey Burgers

280

150

33

0

16

4

7

4

115

380

0

Grilled Chicken Wings

360

270

18

5

30

11

11

4.5

85

570

1

Grilled Mussels with Rouille

430

280

15

20

31

3.5

19

7

70

820

1

Grilled Whole Wild Salmon w/Lemon & Fennel

350

120

54

3

14

2.5

5

3.5

135

410

1

North African Grilled Shrimp

400

260

28

9

29

3

12

11

170

290

2

Grilled Tuna with Charred Corn and Watermelon Salsa

320

120

35

14

13

2.5

7

3

55

135

1

Grilled Salmon w/ Aleppo-Honey Glaze, Turnips & Kale

700

200

47

59

23

4

12

4

100

830

3

Grilled Swordfish with Lemon, Dill & Cucumber Sauce

360

180

40

2

21

4

12

3.5

65

390

0

Asian Citrus-Ginger-Sesame Marinated Scallops

110

30

14

6

3.5

0

1.5

1

25

850

0

Grilled Mahimahi w/Pineapple Barbecue Sauce

370

150

33

21

17

5

8

2.5

140

670

1

Sesame-Ginger Tofu and Shiitake Kebabs

230

90

13

29

10

1

6

2

0

200

5

Crêpes with Grilled Asparagus in Mornay Sauce

390

210

16

32

23

11

9

2

140

650

4

Grilled Zucchini and Cheese Sandwiches

630

230

29

72

26

12

6

4

60

1450

4

Fire-Roasted Tomato and Cabrales Pizza

550

290

15

52

33

9

16

3.5

30

1490

4

Fusilli with Charred Corn and Poblanos

600

250

20

70

28

6

17

4

20

440

7

Chili-Cheddar Grits with Grilled Corn and Tomatoes

420

140

15

59

16

7

6

1.5

30

800

6

Cauliflower “Steaks”

570

210

27

71

23

3

15

2.5

0

410

18

Grilled Farmers’ Market Pasta

330

130

13

40

14

5

7

1.5

10

690

5

Grilled Antipasto of Green and Yellow Zucchini

210

170

4

5

20

4.5

12

2.5

5

250

1

Smoky Spiced Grilled Okra

90

60

2

6

7

1

5

1

0

220

3

Charred Leeks with Caper-Herb Sauce

240

180

2

14

21

3

15

2.5

0

280

2

Grilled Chickpea Flatbread

460

80

13

82

9

2

4

1.5

5

490

6

Grilled Corn on the Cob

170

90

3

20

11

6

3

1

25

130

2

Buttery Balsamic Corn with Shiitake and Grilled Onion

160

70

4

21

8

4

2.5

1

15

150

3

Couscous Salad w/Grilled Eggplant & Vinaigrette

400

140

9

55

16

2

11

2

0

220

5

Grilled Corn and Orzo Salad with Basil

230

100

5

28

11

1.5

8

1.5

0

220

2

Spicy Black Bean, Jícama, and Mango Salad

90

5

4

17

.5

0

0

0

0

210

4

230

70

2

41

7

3.5

2.5

1

20

40

1

SEAFOOD, p. 62

MEATLESS MAINS, p. 72

SIDES, p. 82

LAST BITE, p. 102

Grilled Fresh Figs with Ice Cream and Honey

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

99


RECIPE INDEX Spicy Ground Lamb Kebabs with Onions and Peppers ........................46

Sesame-Ginger Tofu and Shiitake Kebabs ............................................74

Poultry

Salads

Barbecued Buttermilk-Marinated Chicken Breasts ...........................................57

Fattoush-ish Bread Salad .........................24 Greek Spinach Salad with Grilled Flap Steak and Marinated Feta ...............22

Greek-Inspired Cornish Game Hens with Honey-Garlic Butter ............. 55 p. 46

Cover Recipe Miso-Marinated Grilled Beef, Chicken, and Vegetables ..........................37

Beef Argentine-Style Burger with Chimichurri Sauce ...................................... 41 Boneless Barbecue Short Ribs ...............35 Grilled Hamburgers ................................... 34 Grilled Skirt Steak with Adobo Butter ............................................... 34 Grilled Sliders ................................................ 16 Indonesian Beef Satay.............................. 39 Korean Flank Steak Tacos........................ 36 Marinated Steak with Grilled Scallions........................................... 38 Miso-Marinated Grilled Beef, Chicken, and Vegetables ..........................37 Red Chile-Coriander Rib-Eye Steaks.............................................40 Sake-Marinated Steak................................37 Thai Watercress and Steak Salad .......... 31

Pork Glazed Spice-Rubbed Spareribs .......... 48 Grilled Chile-Spiced Pork Tenderloin ........................................... 45 Jamaican Jerk Pork .................................... 49 Mediterranean Pork Chops with Cherry Tomato Salsa ........................47 Pork Loin with Chipotle-Orange Bourbon Glaze ............................................ 50

Lamb Garlicky Lemon–ThymeMarinated Lamb Chops............................ 44 Lamburgers with Blue Cheese and Basil Mayonnaise................................ 44

100

GRILLING 2018

Grilled Chicken Wings ................................61 Grilled Peri-Peri Chicken .......................... 54 Grilled Turkey Burgers...............................60 Japanese Chicken Kebabs ...................... 54 Miso-Marinated Grilled Beef, Chicken, and Vegetables ..........................37 Penne with Grilled Chicken, Portabellas, and Scallions ....................... 59

Grilled Peach and Chicken Salad with Fresh Mint Vinaigrette ......................23 Grilled Potato and Escarole Salad .........25 Grilled Potato, Salmon, and Lentil Salad with Mustard Cream Sauce..........26 Grilled Shrimp Salad with Anchovy-Yogurt Dressing.........................24 Thai Watercress and Steak Salad .......... 31

Tequila-Lime Chicken Thighs................. 58 Tuscan Grain Bowl with Grilled Chicken and Broccolini ............................ 56

Side Dishes

Fish & Shellfish

Charred Leeks with CaperHerb Sauce ....................................................85

Asian Citrus-Ginger-Sesame Marinated Scallops .................................... 70 Grilled Mahimahi with Pineapple Barbecue Sauce and Grilled Sweet Onions................................................ 71 Grilled Mussels with Rouille.....................64 Grilled Salmon with Aleppo-Honey Glaze, Turnips, and Kale ........................... 68 Grilled Swordfish with Lemon, Dill, and Cucumber Sauce ....................... 69 Grilled Tuna with Charred Corn and Watermelon Salsa ............................. 67 Grilled Whole Wild Salmon with Preserved Lemon and Fennel ................ 65 North African Grilled Shrimp.................. 66

Vegetarian Mains Cauliflower “Steaks” ..................................80 Chili-Cheddar Grits with Grilled Corn and Tomatoes .................... 79 Crêpes with Grilled Asparagus in Mornay Sauce.......................................... 75 Fire-Roasted Tomato and Cabrales Pizza ............................................. 76 Fusilli with Charred Corn and Poblanos ............................................... 78 Grilled Farmers’ Market Pasta .................81 Grilled Zucchini and Cheese Sandwiches .................................................. 76

Buttery Balsamic Corn with Shiitake and Grilled Onion ........................87

Couscous Salad with Grilled Eggplant and Cumin Vinaigrette ........... 88 Grilled Antipasto of Green and Yellow Zucchini with Black Olive–Lemon Vinaigrette ............. 84 Grilled Chickpea Flatbread ..................... 86 Grilled Corn and Orzo Salad with Basil ............................................ 89 Grilled Corn on the Cob ............................87 Smoky Spiced Grilled Okra ..................... 84 Spicy Black Bean, Jícama, and Mango Salad......................................... 89

Appetizers Grilled Endive with Gorgonzola and Pecans ............................ 15 Grilled Onion and Sage Flatbread.......... 14 Grilled Sliders ................................................ 16 Grilled Tomatoes with Burrata and Parsley Salad ........................................ 14 Grilled Vegetable Bruschetta.................. 15 Grilled Zucchini and Cheese Roll-Ups .......................................... 16 Tomato and Olive Pizzettas with Fennel Seeds & Aged Goat Cheese ...... 13

Dessert Grilled Figs with Ice Cream and Honey ................................................... 102


Our redesigned site looks delicious And it’s packed with new and exclusive features for subscribers. Visit FineCooking.com

®

© 2017 The Taunton Press


LAST BITE

Fire Up Fruit Figs take on new toasty and sweet flavors after the heat hits their sugars and caramelizes them.

grilled fresh figs with ice cream and honey Grill these figs just as dinner is winding down. They take only a couple of minutes to prepare, and since they’re cooked over a low flame, you can use the last dying embers of a charcoal fire (or just switch on the gas grill). Serves 6 to 8 12 to 16 fresh Black Mission figs, stemmed and halved lengthwise 1 Tbs. canola oil 1 to 2 Tbs. aged balsamic vinegar 2 Tbs. granulated sugar 1½ tsp. chopped fresh thyme 1½ to 2 pints vanilla ice cream About ½ cup honey 5 large mint leaves, thinly sliced (optional)

102

GRILLING 2018

Heat a gas grill to medium low or prepare a low charcoal fire. Set the figs cut side down on a baking sheet and brush the rounded side with the oil. Flip and brush the cut sides of the figs with the balsamic vinegar. In a small bowl, toss the sugar with the thyme, then sprinkle over the figs. Set the figs on the grill, cut side facing up. Cover the grill and cook until the sugary tops start to bubble and brown and

the bottoms of the figs get light grill marks (without burning), 5 to 8 minutes. Serve immediately over scoops of ice cream, drizzled with the honey and sprinkled with the mint if using.


STAND IN COMFORT

WORLD’S MOST COMFORTABLE FLOOR MATS.

SHOWN:

NewLife® in Midnight

Enjoy grilling, baking or doing what you love while standing on the world’s most comfortable floor mats by GelPro. Our proprietary comfort technology provides maximum support and ultra-plush comfort while protecting your feet, legs and back from discomfort and fatigue. Proudly handcrafted in the USA, GelPro Comfort Floor Mats are non-toxic, easy-to-clean and available in over a thousand designer pattern, color and size options to complement your space.

GelPro.com

Made in the USA with Imported Fabric

SHOWN:

GelPro Elite™ Flora in Mossy Green/Nutty Brown

Select styles at

Select styles at


Inspired by Summer Store Finder, Recipes, and an exclusive coupon for Fine Cooking readers: EatGilberts.com


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.