AT LARGE
QUALITY TIME Luminor 1950
54 on Bath exterior. The Veuve Champagne Bar
Tourbillon GMT Ceramica - 48mm TEXT MATT MORLEY
Panerai continues to release variation upon variation of what is essentially one watch, yet watchmaking is nothing if not detail oriented and under the tutelage of Angelo Bonati, CEO since 1997, the company has become a master at creating narrative around its new models, loading them with desirability in the process. “Our watch comes from military history — it is not something you can change easily. If we play around with our DNA, we risk losing our customers and polluting our own brand”, said Bonati when Wanted met him in Geneva earlier this year. Sounding every bit the seasoned brand consultant, he went on to describe how many of the sector's greatest names also have an iconic model that forms the core of their annual collections: “Rolex is the same, Jaeger-LeCoultre has the Reverso, Audemars Piguet has the Royal Oak. All of these brands keep coming back to their most iconic watches, year after year, — it becomes part of their character. We too need that coherence.” So when we look at a watch like the new Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Ceramica, we already know that it is “one of the family”. The fun lies in discerning the points of differentiation from its siblings. First up, the synthetic black ceramic with its uniform matte black appearance has been developed by Panerai for its scratch resistance (up to five times greater than stainless steel) and ability to withstand both corrosive agents and high temperatures. The uncluttered black dial is classic Panerai Luminor through and through, from the minimalist hour markers and distinctive Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock to the “sandwich dial” technique that creates a subtle 3D effect around the hour markers.
WARM WELCOME 54 on Bath
At 3 o’clock the 24-hour indicator gives a second time zone, known as a GMT function, with AM and PM markers, but it is the tourbillon indicator at 9 o’clock that will trigger a rush of blood to the head of connoisseurs. This relates to an internal regulator mechanism with a balance that rotates on its own axis every 30 seconds to counteract the effects of gravity on the watch movement — typically several minutes of inaccuracy each year. This subdial therefore moves at twice the speed of the seconds hand, completing two rotations per minute. Flip the watch over and there is plenty more to admire in the in the 12-sided back case in PVD-coated titanium with a sapphire crystal window revealing the P.2005 in-house manufactured movement. This particular version of the movement, known as the P.2005/B has been blackened to create the required visual continuity with the rest of the case. A golden, arcshaped power reserve display of six days keeps the owner informed when it’s time to indulge in that oddly satisfying ritual of hand winding the movement again. In a typically confident twist, a natural untreated leather strap closed by an adjustable steel buckle coated in PVD creates a retro, slightly-weathered look to what is undoubtedly a prestigious piece of fine watchmaking.
TEXT MATTHEW MCCLURE
Tsogo Sun has continued its seemingly non-stop, against-all-economic odds takeover of the SA hospitality industry with its acquisition of the old Grace Hotel in Rosebank, Johannesburg. It officially opened to the public on 10 July, and the staff (from the desk managers down to the servers at breakfast) have been schooled in five star, world-class service and attentiveness, sometimes even appearing over-eager in their desire to cater to every whim. During our stay on a Friday night (we were in the only occupied room on the 8th floor), we noticed that the Veuve Champagne Bar opposite the Level Four restaurant was packed to capacity with work colleagues enjoying glasses of champagne. This clever, stylish space opened in advance of the hotel to encourage visitors not necessarily staying overnight to enjoy the hotel’s public areas, and it seems to be working a treat. Ryan Hitchcock’s photographs of scenic Johannesburg vistas decorate the rooms and public spaces, tying the hotel to its surroundings while the interior design by David Muirhead reflects the fine textures, bold patterns and confident use of colour that this local designer is renowned for. Muirhead’s interiors are unoffensive, but I did find that, decor-wise, there was little here to set 54 on Bath apart from the rest of Southern Sun’s hotel offerings. If you’re on the lookout for comfortable accommodation in the Rosebank node, a cool place to enjoy bubbly with friends or somewhere to book into for a weekend away from home, 54 on Bath is ideal.
54 on Bath, 54 Bath Avenue, Johannesburg, 011 344 8500
Case: 48mm, black ceramic Movement: Hand-wound mechanical with skeletonised bridges, Panerai P.2005/B calibre Features: Water- resistant to 10 bar (100 metres) Strap: personalised leather strap Price: R950 000 SA Distributor: Vendome Distributors ; 0800 600 035
65 AUGUST 2012
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