ModCloth's Susan Koger on fashion, entrepreneurship, and her dream closet
Issue No. 18 July 2012
the
matchbook girl... has perfected the art of the gallery wall. dreams of Eg yptian pyramids and Grecian sunsets. turns her passion into a business. has discovered the perfect purple blazer. champions her fellow female entrepreneurs. is never without her calling cards.
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July 2012
issue 18
staples 10 DATE BOOK 12 NOTE FROM KATE & JANE 14 EDITOR’S WISH LISTS
Breakfast in Bed The Silk Road Peaches & Cream
cover
116 DIRECTORY 117 WHAT’S IN YOUR BAG? susan koger
at her San Francisco home Photography by Cooper Carras
Elizabeth Taylor
118 JUST MARRIED 120 odds & Ends
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july contents
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history lesson
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20 10 THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT...
Jean Cocteau
38 PORTRAIT OF A LADY 40 Kindred spirit
Georgia O'Keeffe
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Unique Gifts . Personalization . Baby . Jewelry . Bags &Totes . Kitchen & Home . Men’s CONTENT S
Classic Gifting with a CULTURE Personal Flair
& LIVING 22 newsworthy
West Elm & 55 Downing Street
26 MAY WE SUGGEST
Book, Film and Music Reviews
30 gadget girl
May28th
32 Dear Matchbook 34 lunch box
La Tartine Gourmande
44 Beauty counter
Deborah Lippmann
48 in your words
Where in the world would you like to travel to?
50 how to...
Build an art collection
10% OFF
any one item in our store or online Coupon Expires June 30, 2012. Enter MATCH at online checkout.
716-565-9595 www.initialpresents.com
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july contents
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features
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60 Elegant Engravings
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Matchbook pays a visit to Dempsey & Carroll
72 Women Helping Women
Behind the scenes at the freshly launched Two Penny Blue
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86 International Inspiration
At home with textile designer Caitlin Wilson
102 Democratizing Fashion
Susan Koger, founder of fashion powerhouse ModCloth
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delighted to meet you
contributors
A Premiere Mineral Makeup Collection
It’s Easy to be Glamorous
THE FRENCH RIVIERA. mdmineralsonline.com
july
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9 The first Wimbledon tournament is held outside London
1981
29 10
Prince Charles marries Lady Diana
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1951
1955
Catcher in the Rye is first published
23 1904
Katharine Bates writes "America the Beautiful"
National Pi単a Colada Day
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The ice cream cone is invented in St. Louis, Missouri
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1893
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Idaho becomes the 43rd state
Novelist Emily Bronte is born in England
Disneyland opens in Anaheim, California
24 American archaeologist Hiram Bingham discovers Machu Picchu
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wednesday
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Independence Day Happy Fourth of July!
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1877
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The first adhesive postage stamps are offered for sale
tuesday
1890
1847
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monday
1911
sunday
Charlotte's Web author E. B. White is born
18 25 National Hot Fudge Sundae Day
date book
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1976
Women are first inducted into the U.S. Naval Academy in Annapolis, Maryland
saturday
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13 1930
French writer Jean Cocteau is born
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friday
The first World Cup matches take place in Uruguay
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1949
1889
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thursday
Actress Meryl Streep born in Summit, NJ
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note from katie + jane
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The first time we met our cover girl, Susan Koger, was at ModCloth’s San Francisco headquarters. We entered to find several darling girls and one dog in a conference room chatting away. Turning to our right we discovered on an enormous screen several Pittsburgh employees and their pups chatting back. At ModCloth teleconferences happen throughout the day, every inch of workspace is decorated to the nines, and four legged friends are always welcome. In other words, it’s a Matchbook girl paradise. Whether they’re dreaming up dresses, blazers, throw pillows, or recipes, all of the women in our July issue share a passion for entrepreneurship and creativity. As true twenty-first century women, they've also all used technology to boost these flourishing businesses. We can't help but be inspired and we hope you are too.
Editors' personal stationery by Sugar Paper
Happy reading, Matchbook girls. We hope your July is full of fireworks. katie + jane
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contributors
contributors
the matchbook team Katie Armour
Courtney Apple
Photographer Philadelphia, PA
Rima RIMACampbell CAMPBELL
Photographer Photographer New York, York, NY New NY
Jeanne chan COOPER CARRAS
co-founder editorial director
F.E. CASTL
Guest Editor Photographer Jane Lilly WarrenPhotogr San Francisco, CA co-founder Dallas, TX and N San Francisco, CA
creative director
Jamie Ericson
copy editor
Katie Evans
illustrator
Cooper Carras
Photographer San Francisco, CA
sarah Tolzmann
NATALIE GRASSO SHANNON DARROUGH Mackenzie Horan Amanda Elser
Writer Writer Wilmington, NC
New York, NY
associate Writer Writer Washington, D.C.
KRISTINA H designer
Illust Stockholm
Darien, CT
Amelia Moye
editorial intern rowen hahn
editorial intern
Meredith Bucher
design intern
KAYLEN RALPH
Erin Newkirk
Writer Minneapolis, MN
Writer Scott Wade
Columbia, MO
Writer Philadelphia, PA
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SHERRY SMITH
SCOTT W
Photographer Brantford, Ontario Photographer Canada
Writ Philadelph
Sarah Winchester
Boston, MA
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editor's wish list
The Silk Road jane lilly warren, creative director
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silken treasures
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1. A.L.C. Finley Shirt Dress, Net-A-Porter, $465 2. Dori Csengeri Earrings, Yoox, $224 3. Duo Pack Shampoo & Conditioner, Oil Of Morocco, $119 4. Ikat Clutch Pink, Sheherazade, $52 5. 25" Framed Vintage Silk Scarf, Design Darling, $100 5 6. Isabel Marant Summertime Brass and Silk Tassel Bracelet, Net-A-Porter, $112 7. Syrian Ottoman Tulips Ikat, Sheherazade, $600 8. Jil Sander Paisley-Print Silk Scarf, Net-A-Porter, $300
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1. Yellow Spotted Silk Pillow, Furbish, $45 2. Fuchsia Ikat Silk Pillow, Furbish, $45 3. Silk Elements Shea Butter, Sally Beauty, $4 4. Ripple Stripe Lampshade, Soane, price upon request 5. Mineral Powder Foundation, Oil Of Morocco, $59 6. Repetto Orange Silk Ballerina Flats, Ssense, $186 7. Erdem Rosie Floral-Print Camisole, Net-A-Porter, $285 8. Weston Calcite Printed Silk Journal, Net-A-Porter, $57 9. Emilio Pucci by Vanessa Friedman and Armando Chitolina, Books-A-Million, $126 10. Erdem Catrina matchbook 15 Floral-Print Shorts, Net-A-Porter, $247
editor's wish list
Breakfast in Bed katie armour, editorial director
dreaming of lazy mornings between the sheets
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1. Lilian Leopard-Print Washed-Silk Pajamas, Net-A-Porter, $455 2. Cashmere Throw in Confetti, Sue Fisher King, $1,550 3. Silk Eye Mask, Shopbop $26 4. Swiss Dot Standard Sham, West Elm, $24 5. Nito Rectangular Tray, Williams-Sonoma, $79 6. Teacup and Saucer, Nina Campbell, ÂŁ14 7. Bodum Eileen French Press, Zappos, $60 8. Crossword Note Cube, The New York Times Store, $8
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1. Python Frame, Barneys, $110 2. Metal Alarm Clock, Z Gallerie, $35 3. Star Stud, Minor Obsessions by Finn, $120 4. Large Bone Box, Sue Fisher King, $297 5. Robert Abbey Lamp, Lamps Plus, $252 6. Framed Hugo Guinness Print, John Derian, $480 7. The Unexpurgated Beaton: The Cecil Beaton Diaries as He Wrote Them, Barnes & Noble, $28 8. Quartz Votive Holder, Design Darling, $40 9. iPad Envelope, Gigi New York, $108 10. Byredo Gypsy Water, Barneys, $145 11. Sheepskin Rug, Room & Board, $99 matchbook 17
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peaches & cream Jeanne Chan, guest editor
all things summery and sweet
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1. Karen Walker Number One Sunglasses in Vanilla Wood, Shopbop, $250 2. DVF Edna Silk-Satin Dress, Net-A-Porter, $375 3. Dear Noteset, Sugar Paper, $20 4. Marc by Marc Jacobs Exploded Katie Bracelet, Piperlime, $128 5. Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick in Nectar, Nordstrom, $39 6. Miu Miu Bow Jewel Smoking Slippers, Saks Fifth Avenue, $650 7. Rebecca Minkoff Polka Dot Bag, Shopbop, $250 8. Juliska Flatware, Amazon, $155
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1. Herringbone Hammam Towel, Terrain, $98 2. Flawed Gold-Plated Bowl, Gretel Home, $64 3. Antique French Botanical Print, Etsy, $10 4. Verdant Cannister, Anthropologie, $78 5. Christian Louboutin book, Net-A-Porter, $150 6. Carven Cotton-blend Shorts, Net-A-Porter, $265 7. Provence l'Hiver Candle, Aedes, $58 8. Madur Grass Cushion Cover, Toast, 拢29 9. Lanc么me Ultra Shiny Lip Gloss in Peach Nectar, Nordstrom, $18
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10 t h i n g s
10 Things You Didn't Know About. . . Jean Maurice Eugène ClÊment Cocteau
(1889-1963) was a French novelist, poet, film director, actor, artist, and aesthete. He is perhaps best known for his book Les Enfants Terribles, for his films Beauty and the Beast and Orpheus, and his play La Machine Infernale. An integral member of Bohemian Paris, he counted Edith Piaf, Pablo Picasso, Edith Wharton, Marcel Proust, Marlene Dietrich, and Coco Chanel among his many close friends. Ever the consummate Renaissance man, Cocteau dabbled in nearly all genres of art and was a champion for modernism. Jean Cocteau died at the age of seventy-four. 20
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Cocteau collaborated In his version of “Beauty and the Beast” with Elsa Schiaparelli (1946), Belle cried tears on a surrealist inspired dinner jacket. It that turn into diamonds. consisted of a woman’s They were genuine face embroidered at stones supplied by the shoulder and down Cartier. the sleeve were her tresses created with 5 gold beads. On his left pinkie he 2 wore a pair of the After being stricken 9 Cartier’s Trinity rings. by the beauty of a Cocteau struggled with The iconic design is classmate at the age opiate addiction after comprised of three of twelve, Cocteau the death of a young entwined bands of later said that at that protege he had fallen white, rose, and yellow moment he experienced in love with. “Les gold. a revelation and felt a Enfants Terribles” was "desire to join those he written in a week while finds beautiful rather 6 he was withdrawing than worry about being When he moved from from the substance. liked by them." Paris to a country Cecil Beaton house in the village of Milly-la-Forêt, he hired photographed Cocteau 3 smoking opium, his legendary antiques During World War I, he eyes drooping, his dealer Madeleine served in the Red Cross hawk-like demeanor Castaing to decorate. as an ambulance driver. softened and distant. His leopard study is Never satisfied doing just among our all-time one thing, he donned 10 favorites. a Marine uniform Cocteau had his fatal and joined a group heart-attack, it is of Marines, although 7 claimed, upon hearing he was not a Marine Cocteau’s friend Coco that his dear friend himself. After Cocteau Chanel designed the Edith Piaf had died was nominated for a costumes for several that same day. medal, his commanding of his plays, including officer discovered the “Antigone” (1923) and deception. Cocteau was “Oedipus Rex” (1937). arrested and sent back to civilian life. When Jean was nine years old, his father committed suicide. Thankfully, his doting mother supported and encouraged her young son and his artistic pursuits.
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newsworthy
West Elm Inspired by South Africa
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West Elm's latest collection celebrates art and design by South African artisans and the Matchbook girls couldn't be more pleased with the result. The retailer's biggest collaboration to date, the South African collection includes everything from furniture to dinnerware created by sixteen different artisans. Many were inspired by the South African landscape as evidenced in the multitude of organic shapes and rich, nature-inspired hues. We especially fell for artist Shirley Fintz’s Delft-inspired elephant table lamp, Gemma Orkin's silk-screened floral pillows, and sunny Potter's Workshop plates.
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It’s amazing how varied the voices are there. There are influences from so many different backgrounds layered on the foundational African culture. I love the idea of those multiple points of inspiration coming together. It makes for a real melting pot point of view. - West Elm Creative Director Vanessa Holden
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1. Source Kudu Table Lamp, $119 2. John Vogel Mantis Lounger, $799 3. Gemma Orkin Floral Serving Bowl, $19 4. Potter's Workshop Dot Salad Plate, $8 5. Shirley Fintz Table Lamp, $199 6. Source Oryx Side Table, $249 7. Source Bench, $599 8. Wola Nani Pencil Cup, $12 9. Wola Nani Tray, $16 10. Mick Haigh Latte Bowls, $8
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newsworthy
Travel to 55 Downing Street
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There's a new flash sale site in town and we have been finding some serious gems. 55 Downing Street was launched by the folks behind Lamps Plus and it's full of affordable finds for the home. This week we're loving the kilim poufs and trellis rugs, but with new sales popping up throughout the week the inventory is everchanging. From bookends to sofas, the stylish goods are up to seventy percent off. Affordable and chic – now that we can get behind!
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1. Pear Trellis Rug, $200 2. Triple Gourd Clear Glass Table Lamp, $70 3. Kilim Pouf Ottoman, $160 4. Scalloped Mirror Coffee Table, $400
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newsworthy
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culture club
May We Suggest... o u r p i c k s i n b o o k s , m o v i e s a n d m u s i c t h i s j u ly
on our shelf
The Age of Miracles by Karen Thompson Walker (Random House, $26)
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Billed as the summer beach read, The Age of Miracles does not disappoint. Karen Thompson Walker’s much awaited debut sets off, like many 2012 stories, in apocalyptic tones as the earth begins to inextricably slow down its orbit. 11 year-old Julia doesn’t have the scientific background to make sense of the slowdown, but its reverberations within the background of the story add an aura of suspense as plates begin to shift, days become longer and everything around Julia seems to begin falling apart.
But enough about the slowdown, because the story is much quicker than all that. It is quick witted, quick plotted and, yes, a quick read. Despite the suspense (and danger) of the altered world, it is the seemingly mundane that sets the story in motion. The Age of Miracles is at its heart a wonderful and funny coming of age tale. Along with earthly troubles, Julia must confront issues ranging
from the typical (first love, the divorce of her parents) to the bizarre (Suburbia in general, her grandfather’s conspiracies). Walker’s work shares many sci-fi tropes with the late Ray Bradbury and like him, The Age of Miracles is loaded with a heavy heart. Through it all we are thrilled to find a story of hope in a time of uncertainty.
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culture club
Beautiful Ruins by Jess Walter (Harper $26)
Jess Walter’s acclaimed Beautiful Ruins is rollicking, brutal and yet, somehow a heartfelt sendup to our disturbed entertainment culture. Beginning with “Cleopatra” where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor became larger than the movie itself, the novel moves outward, encompassing everything from reality TV and horrible sitcom ideas to rabid producers. While the plot swerves around from Rome, Hollywood, Eugene, Oregon, and Edinburgh (just to name a few locales), Walter is always in command. In the midst of his sendup to Hollywood is a true, breathtaking love story that you won’t want to miss.
The Red House by Mark Haddon (Doubleday, $26)
The Infinite Tides by Christian Kiefer (Bloomsbury USA, $26)
In Mark Haddon’s noteworthy new work, an English country retreat is the breathtaking setting for the interweaving narratives of eight distinct family members. Middle-aged Richard works to reconcile with his estranged sister, her teenage kids, and find a way through the mess of his recent (unapproved) second marriage. Like any family vacation, what’s bubbling below the surface is always the true story. Backstabbing, old family grudges and teenage angst competes for space in this sprawling novel, which is a real tour de force. Holding to Tolstoy’s maxim on family, The Red House shows once again that all unhappy families truly are unhappy in their own way.
Astronaut Keith Corcoran thought the most difficult part of his journey to the International Space Station was the free walk in infinite space. Unfortunately, the hardest part was coming back down to earth, which for Corcoran means dealing with the news of his 16 year-old daughter’s death and the fact that his wife has decided to leave him as well. In part a meditation on Suburban loneliness and despair, Christian Kiefer’s The Infinite Tides is so much more, mixing maturity and a heavy dose of humor. As Corcoran wanders aimlessly, he becomes friends with his stargazing and very strange Ukrainian neighbor. These two lost men find a way to repair themselves ever so slowly. matchbook
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on the stereo
at the box office
Dirty Projectors, Swing Lo Magellan
Farewell, My Queen
Back with his long-term project, David Longstreth leads the Dirty Projectors to another excellent album, replete with cascades of gorgeous guitar riffs. Once again, the Dirty Projectors demonstrate great skill in soothing us with tones reminiscent of the past while still giving us enough edge to feed the creative impulse. Available July 10. Elton John, Classic Album Selection (1970-73)
Elton John has been knighted, seen his music take center stage on Broadway, penned some of the most recognizable songs the world over, and become a cultural icon. This limited edition box set is a collection of the Rocket Man’s albums, early masterpieces that include such tracks as Daniel, Crocodile Rock, and Tiny Dancer. Available July 2. 28
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In this fictionalized account of Marie Antoinette’s final days, as told through the eyes of a servant, the queen tries to hold the estate as well as her forbidden passion together, even as the angry proletariat approaches. In theaters July 13. Trishna
Based upon the Thomas Hardy novel “Tess of the D'Urbervilles,” Trishna reimagines the classic as taking place in modern India. When Trishna, who is of a working class background, meets and falls in love with a wealthy businessman, she finds herself straddling the caste system as well as torn between tradition and progression In theaters July 13.
etiquette
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tech smart
Gadget Girl
Ag n i T i l l a e , f o u n d e r o f M ay 28 t h
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Latvian-born designer and entrepreneur Agni Tilla is one busy creative. She founded her accessories brand, May28th, with the hopes of creating fun, unisex watches that don’t break the bank. The designs, which are inspired by travel and architecture, are bright and cheerful -- just like the Matchbook girl behind them. We caught up with Toronto-based Agni to find out how technology inspires her designs and keeps her on task.
On Agni’s Wish List
The idea of having a large format printer at home is very exciting (though I fear my house would turn into a non-stop print shop)!
imagePROGRAF Large Format Printer, Canon, $9,801 30
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The one thing missing in my kitchen is an espresso maker. I would choose brightest color possible.
DeLonghi Espresso Maker, Amazon, $299
tech smart
Agni’s Favorite Gadgets This is the one thing that is always in my purse. They are amazing for an emergency manicure or quick watch repairs. I'm looking forward to adding some patterned ones to my collection.
Swiss Army Knife, Victorinox, $24
I rarely have time to read, but when I do I spend several days and nights reading as many books as possible. Kobo is perfect for spontaneous readers like me. Kobo
Touch E-Reader, Kobo, $100 Pinterest is my top inspiration source. I browse on my MacBook Air while drinking my morning coffee. The Pinterest iPad app is really helpful when I’m looking for last minute dinner recipes.
Pinterest, Free
My son's relaxation ritual is listening to music, so a mobile speaker is essential when we’re traveling. I love the simple functionality and design of this Muji speaker. Mobile Speaker,
Muji, $38 I don't own a TV, but I do enjoy watching movies with my friends and family. This projector makes those nights extra special. BenQ
Projector, Amazon, $594
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etiquet te
Dear Matchbook, Happy July, Matchbook girls! May your month be filled with sparkly friends and festive fireworks. Thanks so much for your questions. Keep them coming! Write me at erin@redstamp.com
Q
Summer parties have been a blast with acquaintances coming out of the woodwork to celebrate summer.One downfall… that person you’ve met one hundred times, but fails to remember you/your name. How do you politely tell them to get over their own bad self?!
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I give people two chances to remember me. The third “meeting,” I come out with a straight-up, “Actually, we’ve met before. At Stella’s thirty-fifth and again at Leo and Julia’s barbecue. Great to see you again!” Not only does it make it hard for them to forget you ever again, it provides comfortable conversation. Chances are, they aren’t relishing in their inability to remember you, so be proud of your stellar social skills, but also be gracious with your greeting.
And if you are someone who meets a lot of people and/or struggles to recognize faces…fake it ‘til you make it. Walk around with a big smile at parties, make eye contact, nod at people who make eye contact with you. And switch up your standard hello. Instead of a “nice to meet you!” start greeting people with a “nice to see you!” You can ease into the conversation from there.
Calligraphy Name Tags, SparrowNestScript, $8 • Sharpie Fine Marker, The Consumer Link, $1 • Garden Party Invite, Paper & Ink Designs, $55 for 25 • Audrey Calendar, Sugar Paper, $52
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Really looking forward to our Fourth of July party, but annoyed that not everyone has RSVP’d. How do I elicit a response without stalking them? Unless they have a restraining order out on you, you are hardly stalking someone a} you know and b} you have graciously offered to entertain. Guests should respond to your kind invitation within a week. But things happen – invitations get lost, people move, spam filters are overzealous. If the party isn’t impromptu, I always give my invitees two weeks before the party to respond, and then I send out a reminder/request. Emails, text messages, and phone calls are my go-tos. If you don’t hear back after three attempts, then go ahead and write them off as a no-show. Keep in mind that they might show up, but parties have a way of working out where someone who has RSVP’d “yes” can’t make it last minute and vice versa. Just to be safe, I always round my numbers up to allow for one or two extras. It also gives me a chance to add a last minute forgotten or a fun new friend!
Erin Newkirk is the CEO and Co-Founder of Red Stamp, a company on a mission to make relationships stronger. Always a fan of making people feel good, she believes modern etiquette isn’t about fancy stationery and using the right fork, but kindness and authenticity. {Much to her husband and son’s dismay, this doesn’t mean they are off the hook for penning prompt thank you notes.} Download their free, award-winning app from the Apple iTunes App Store. And drop her a tweet at @ redstamp_erin or an email at erin@redstamp.com. She’d love to hear from you!
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lunch box
F rench
lessons
Text by
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Am el ia M oye
For this month’s Lunchbox feature we caught up with Béatrice Peltre, the popular food blogger and author of La Tartine Gourmande: Recipes for an Inspired Life. Her beautiful book is full of delicious French-inspired recipes perfect for summertime dining. Read on to discover the inspiration behind Bea’s magic in the kitchen and two recipes to try at home!
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lunch box We love your book and blog! What motivated you to write a cookbook?
I've always loved visual arts and design. I suppose this explains why I naturally became a food I had always wanted to stylist and photographer: write a cookbook, but for I had "it" inside me withthe longest time I didn't out knowing it, or not know what I had to do until I created my food to make it happen. For a blog. I really love to style few years, I maintained a and photograph food, website called beaskitch- and to create pictures en.com (now turned into that are going to touch La Tartine Gourmande) the viewers' sensibility. where I kept notes on You grew up in a small my favorite recipes. My French town of 600 peoblog’s success paved the ple. What about your way for what followed: upbringing inspires so many wonderful opyour cooking? portunities. I feel very grateful to have been Absolutely. I grew up in given the opportunity a country and within a to write (and style and family with an obvious photograph) my own f irst love for food. My parents cookbook. It was a long surrounded my brother process, but worth the and me with beautiwait. I am really proud ful foods. Homegrown of the result. I always felt produce and homemade "my recipes need to live foods too. "I feel well inside a book that I can when I eat well" is my go back to." I wanted to motto, so I really care share them with people about how and what we with the same approach eat. My father's parents to food than mine. were farmers, so I keep vivid memories of spendWe were so impressed to ing time on the farm learn you also do all (they had animals and your own food photoglarge vegetable gardens), raphy and styling! When eating the foods they did you become intergrew and made, helping ested in photography? my mother (and aunts I focus on natural and and grandmothers) in the beautiful foods. I believe garden during the sumthat we eat with our eyes mer to pick peas, beans, f irst. I've always loved to and fruit. We'd spend prepare plates f illed with afternoons making jams pretty foods. And then and preserves together.
I can still remember the aromas of those afternoons spent in the kitchen. My entire life is f illed with food-related memories. That's why I do what I do today. Growing up in France was like going to cooking school in many ways. Do you have a favorite recipe in the book?
I love them all! Each one has a story of why it's inside. But I can tell you that I receive a lot of great feedback about my desserts and vegetable tarts. The Alaskan salmon with its carrot sauce f lavored with ginger, lemongrass, and coconut milk is also a huge winner sure to impress and please. I could drink the sauce with a straw. What do you love most about cooking?
Sharing and making people happy with foods I prepared--my mother taught me that. And creating. I am fascinated by the process of starting with raw ingredients and transforming them into something beautiful to look at and delicious to eat. It' a balance of both--and that does not necessarily means complicated either by the way. Simple foods equal beautiful foods too. matchbook
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lunch box
Lemongrass and Blackberry Teacakes T hese are what my motherin-law would call the perfect kind of teacakes. As an Irish woman, she knows! T hey are studded with blackber ries and flavored with a hint of lemong rass, which gives them an unusual touch. Moist and divine! Feel free to substitute other ber ries of your choice for the blackber ries — raspber ries or red cur rants work well too. You can also use allpurpose flour in place of the rice flour, if that’s what you have handy. {Makes 4 teacakes (large muffin size)} You will need: 4 rigid mini brioche or large muffin molds DIRECTIONS: 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. for molds • Butter 4 rigid mini brioche or large muffin molds; set ¼ cup white rice flour aside. ½ cup almond meal, sifted • Melt the butter in a small pot and set aside. ½ cup confectioner's sugar, sifted • In a bowl, combine the rice flour, almond meal, confectioner's Pinch of sea salt sugar, sea salt, and baking powder. Mix in the vanilla seeds ¼ teaspoon baking powder and lemongrass. Make a hole in the middle of the dry 1 vanilla bean, split open and seeds ingredients and pour the egg whites into it. Mix together scraped out until smooth. Stir in the melted butter, then gently fold in 1 lemongrass stalk, finely chopped the blackberries. Divide the batter among the molds. 2 large egg whites, lightly beaten until • Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until the blade foamy of a sharp knife inserted in the middle comes out dry. 2/3 cup blackberries • Remove from the heat and let cool for a few minutes, then unmold the cakes onto a cooling rack. The cakes will keep for a few days wrapped in plastic in the fridge and can be slightly reheated in the oven or microwave.
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lunch box
Cold Honeydew and Cucumber Soup
You will need: 6 small skewers 1 pound 7 ounces honeydew melon flesh, diced 1 long English cucumber (10 ½ ounces), peeled, cut in half, seeded, and diced 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped Juice of 1 large orange or ¼ cup apple juice Juice of 1 lime 15 purple or African blue basil leaves Sea salt and pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling For the skewers: 3 balls of fresh mozzarella or 6 mini mozzarella balls ¼ honeydew melon ¼ watermelon, seeded ¼ cantaloupe melon Purple basil leaves 3 slices of prosciutto, cut in half lengthwise Pepper
I don’t often go out for lunch alone, but when I do, something special always happens. Like the day when I ate a cold melon soup in the restaurant Pères et Filles in the 6th ar rondissement of Paris. T he taste of the soup was so sweet and delicate that despite tr ying to eat slowly to prolong the moment, I gobbled my bowl down in less than a minute, keen to retur n to my kitchen to make my own version. T his cold soup is wonderful on a hot summer day. You can dress it up by adding ske wers of mozzarella, prosciutto, and different types of colorful melon, which is sure to impress your friends. Note that to get the best results, it’s preferable to choose the most frag rant and ripe fr uit you can find. {Ser ves 6} DIRECTIONS: • In the bowl of a food processor, combine the honeydew, cucumber, shallot, orange and lime juices, and basil leaves and pulse into a fine puree. Season with sea salt and pepper and stir in the oil. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for a few hours until chilled. • To prepare the skewers: Use a melon scoop to shape small balls of mozzarella, honeydew, watermelon, and cantaloupe. • On each skewer, alternate the following ingredients, adding a basil leaf between each: 2 balls of cantaloupe, 1 ball of watermelon, 1 ball of honeydew, and 2 balls of mozzarella wrapped in half a slice of prosciutto. Season with pepper. • To serve, ladle the soup into shallow bowls or small glasses and drizzle with oil. Serve with the skewers.
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PORTRAIT OF A L ADY
Desert Rose A By Amelia Moye
American painter Georgia O’Keeffe was born on a Wisconsin wheat farm. It was 1887 and her Irish father and Hungarian mother encouraged artistic pursuits in their young brood. Ever the individualist, Georgia later wrote that she knew she wanted to be an artist from a young age, but “I hadn’t a desire to make anything like the pictures I had seen.”
After refining her technique at various art schools across the country, O’Keeffe’s paintings were first exhibited in 1916 in New York City. The one-woman show took place at the 291 gallery belonging to legendary photographer Alfred Stieglitz and he displayed them without her permission. O’Keeffe, who was in Texas at the time, was unaware a mutual friend
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had passed along her work and was furious when she found out.
of color and often erotic undertones. Never one to follow the crowd, she painted everything from New York skyscrapers to animal skulls gleaming in the desert sun.
As fate would have it, the public fell for O’Keeffe’s groundbreaking abstracts and Stieglitz fell for In 1970 an exhibit was O’Keeffe. The two were held of O’Keeffe’s work at married in 1924, commenc- the Whitney Museum of ing one of the most famous love affairs in the history of art. Over the course of their relationship, Stieglitz took more than five hundred photographs of his wife – regarded by many as a love poem through a camera lens. After Steiglitz’s death in 1946, O’Keeffe moved to Abiquiú, New Mexico and immersed herself in her paintings. She would do anything for her art, often shivering under a blanket in the dark, cold desert to paint the sunrise. Her work came to be known for its bold use
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American Art in New York. She was eighty-three at the time and praised by critics as the doyenne of American painting. Despite her reclusive tendencies, the strongwilled O’Keeffe had proven that women could equal their male counterparts in any field. Upon her death in 1986, the world lost not only an artist, but a true pioneer.
Georgia prints 1. Petunias by Georgia
O'Keeffe, Art.com, $30 2. Pelvis with the Distance by Georgia O'Keeffe, Art. com, $50 3. Street by Georgia O'Keeffe, Art.com, $9 3
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Georgia O’Keeffe
kindred spirit
REIMAGINED FOR A NEW AG E 1
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classic staples for your closet
1. Perfect Ex-Boyfriend Shirt, Madewell, $60 2. Jules Smith Boho Ring, Shopbop, $95 3. Haute Hippie Cardigan, Net-A-Porter, $445 4. Typeset Trousers, Madewell, $98 5. Workwear Shirtdress, J.Crew, $118 6. Leather Bag in Platinum, Baggu, $160 7. Cole Haan Kimry Sandal, Zappos, $168 8. Braided Hat, Target, $20
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kindred spirit
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your best face forward
1. Clinique Superbalanced Powder Bronzer in Shade 02, Nordstrom, $35 2. Essie Nail Polish in Go Overboard, Nordstrom, $8 3. Clarins Sun Wrinkle Control Cream for Face SPF 50+, Nordstrom, $30 4. Bobbi Brown Lip Balm SPF 15, Nordstrom, $19 5. Smythson Emily Cosmetics Case, Barneys, $245 6. Le Labo Jasmin 17, Barneys, $145 7. Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Eye Pencil in Jet, Nordstrom, $24 8. Belye Nochi Eye Palette, M.D. Minerals, $85 9. Mason Pearson Detangling Comb, Barneys, $29 10. Rodin Olio Lusso, Barneys, $150 matchbook 41
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modern classics for your abode
1. Jonathan Adler Brass Floor Lamp, Lamps Plus, $509 2. Shield Mirror, Jayson Home, $3,995 3. Wall Paint in Pink Cloud, Benjamin Moore, from $25 per gallon 4. Succulent Garden, 1-800-Flowers, $20 5. Yellow Silk Ikat Pillow, Jayson Home, $275 6. Velvet Pillow, Burke Decor, $90 7. Nicholas Sofa, Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams, $2,845 8. Souk Rug, West Elm, from $199 9. Mist Herringbone Throw, Serena & Lily, $250 10. Jute Utility Basket, Terrain, $228 11. Privet House Coral Rope Pouf, Target, $80 42 matchbook
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odds and ends to spruce up any space
1. Cactus Napkin Ring, Barneys, $36 2. Kendra Scott Linden Earrings, Zappos, $60 3. Rose Garden Tea Towel, Terrain, $26 4. Bringing Nature Home: Floral Arrangements Inspired by Nature, Amazon, $29 5. Emerald Vase, Terrain, $328 6. Stieglitz Photographic Print, Art.com, $30 7. Quartz Bookends, Design Darling, $75 8. Turtle Shell Brass Tray, High Street Market, $78 9. Resin Champagne Bucket, Calypso St. Barth, $265 10. Leather Mouse Pad, Freshly Picked, $35 11. Marais Throw in Tangerine, Jayson Home, $195
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beaut y counter
ja z z and
nails
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Am a n da E lser
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There are few people in the world that are able to make a living out of both their passion and their hobby, but Deborah Lippmann did just that.She came to New York as an aspiring jazz singer and remains here today as the front woman of a nail empire. Always in the thick of things, you can often spot Deborah backstage at Fashion Week hand painting polka dots onto nails or onstage singing a number from her latest album. This is one woman who deserves her own spotlight.
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How did you go from jazz singer to nail aficionado?
I’m a jazz singer with a college degree in music. When I moved to New York to pursue singing jazz, which I still do today, I couldn’t make the kind of living that I wanted to and I was not successful at waiting tables. I had to pay the rent and wanted to live in a nice place, so I pursued my second love. I started working with celebrities on photo shoots, one thing led to another, and before I knew it my brand was born. I was already a manicurist when I moved to New York, but while in cosmetology school, I decided to specialize in nails. It was a great option because I could sit during the day and stand at night in heels, singing, so that was how it started.
on a daily basis. Giving manicures and pedicures is a very intimate and special experience for me – I feel blessed to be included in the inner sanctums of special happenings in people’s lives. It’s wonderful to be trusted and share a small piece of the biggest days of people’s lives – when they get married or win an award like a Grammy or an Oscar. It’s both exciting and thrilling for me as a huge fan of art to be an insider and part of a special moment – I love it.
ucts that I personally buy. As a consumer I’m super visual, but I also found that the name of a shade could make or break whether I bought a product or not. If the name didn’t match my perception of the shade, I would get confused and wouldn’t buy it. I decided to name my shades after song titles because I’m a jazz singer and so passionate about music, and I felt strongly that the names should evoke a feeling rather than a specif ic shade because we all see color differently. Whether you know the What was the hardest part song or not, the names about starting your own are just fun! business? The most exciting part?
When did you realize this was something you really loved to do?
Starting your own business is harder than I ever imagined. It’s also the most incredible journey I’ve taken. I’ve had to learn things that I never thought I’d have to learn and am happy that I have. Every day is a challenge, and every day is different.
I love holding hands with people and making them feel better about themselves. Our hands and feet are badly abused
When I was getting ready to launch my brand and f iguring out how to name the shades, I considered the prod-
You are always seen backstage painting nails during New York Fashion Week. What do you love most about it?
For Fashion Week, nails have evolved in such a huge way to the point where the manicure team is with the hair and makeup team, and we get an opportunity to see the fashion and where the look is going. Nails should be a f inishing touch. They shouldn’t be seen f irst and should never be stronger than the
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the matchbook girl's
Deborah Lippman Beauty Picks
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1. Glitter Nail Color in Candy Shop, Nordstrom, $18 2. Nail Color in Supermodel, Nordstrom, $16 3. The Stripper to Go Nail Lacquer Remover Finger Mitts, Nordstrom, $12 4. Nail Color in Daytripper, Nordstrom, $16 5. Nail Color in Fashion, Nordstrom, $16 6. Tools of the Trade Set, Nordstrom, $48 7. Smooth Operator Nail Buffer, Nordstrom, $12 8. Nail Color in P.Y.T., Nordstrom, $16 9. Addicted To Speed Ultra Quick Dry Topcoat, Nordstrom, $20 10. Rich Girl Hand Cream SPF 25, Nordstrom, $28 11. Nail Color in On the Beach, Nordstrom, $16 12. Nail Color in Boom Boom Pow, Nordstrom, $20
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makeup. It’s a f inishing touch that coordinates with everything. What is your favorite nail trend?
I think that mauve is going to be the new nude – sheer mauve, full coverage mauve, you name it and we’re going to see it. I did a beautiful dusty mauve shade for fall called Modern Love that is going to be a staple. The crème, fullcoverage formula is the perfect mix of feminine and edgy, and updates the shade in a way that brings mauve back to life.
The collaboration that we did with Sarah Jessica Parker will always be a lasting memory for me. It was the f irst time that a celebrity had a vision of a shade, and we worked together to create exactly what she wanted. We named the shade Sarah Smile, and it’s still a very popular, super-chic neutral.
I’ve had the privilege of working closely with incredibly talented artists and have collaborated with a number of them on nail lacquers. I worked with Cher to create her own lacquer called Believe, Mary J. Blige to create No More What has been one of Drama, Pat Benatar to your most memorable ce- create Hit Me With Your lebrity moments? Best Shot, and more. I recently worked with I made a shade for MaKate Winslet and Meryl riah Carey when she was Streep for the Golden going to perform at the Globes, and I work with Oscars with Whitney Lady Gaga often. It’s just Houston. I wanted to do an honor to be part of something special and such special moments in made her a nail color to each of my client’s lives. wear that night that really suited the occasion. If you could only choose She would have me mix one color to wear on your shades for various ocnails for the rest of your casions, and she kind of life, what would you pick? pushed me to start my company in a way.
That’s a tough one! They’re like my children because I create them all – I can’t choose a favorite. I would say that my favorite shade is usually the one that I’m wearing at the moment, because it expresses how I’m feeling at the time. What's next for Deborah Lippmann?
I am always working in the lab to create new textures and concepts, and I always push myself to go further season after season. I can’t spill exactly what’s coming next, but I can say that we’re going somewhere that we never have before! One of my many goals, for fall in particular, is to make mauve the new nude. That’s all I can say. It’s harder than you can imagine to keep this a secret! When can we expect your next jazz album?
I’ve been doing some performing and working on new music. I’m always thinking about the next album, but I don’t have exact timing just yet.
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chit chat
“Naples, Italy. For the color, history, architecture...and pizza!” @nikkirap
“Santa Fe....just relax and take in the surrounding beauty!” @TinaCarcione
“New Orleans! For the architecture.” @NEastStyle
“Marfa, Texas! It
in your words
@MatchbookMag: Matchbook girls, what city have you always longed to visit and why? #chitchat
@chevronsarah
romantic atmosphere with a distinct southern-hemisphere vibe. just so tempting.
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@KatieRides
@TwoBites22
“A Roman holiday would
be lovely! Culture. Food. Gregory Peck. Although my boyfriend might object.
“Santorini. Nothing would be better than watching the sunset with a glass of wine.”
@ CoffeeGirl217
@MaureenMoore
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“Buenos Aires - a classic, European
“Egypt: the history and pyramids.”
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has such a vibrant community of artists and I'd love to visit Donald Judd's foundation.
chit chat
“There's a good reason why there's a song called
“Saint Petersburg:
Baroque meets Anna Karenina. (+ ice skating + furs + sledding + tea...)
"London Calling" -that's the city I've always wanted to visit! Brisk weather, British accents (the girl can't help it), double decker buses, and of course Big Ben!
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@HeatherTaylor
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@CamilleBouchet
“I've always dreamed of
an Audrey Hepburn Roman Holiday :-) It's always seemed like such a romantic city. Though, I'd take any city in Italy, really.
“London. I've been enamored with its history, architecture and whimsical qualities, since I was a young girl. Someday!”
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@TaraHuntley
@_emdash
“I've always dreamed of Paris. The fashion,
“So many! But Sydney is
bike rides, patisseries and shopping. Then I read the book Paris my sweet and fell in love with every page :)
number one on my list currently. Maybe for a honeymoon? These fingers are crossed :)
@AmandaGrieve
@AshleyLovett
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“Prague! Furs, coffee, existentialism” @KatieMckee
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“Why, Monte Carlo, of
course! So excited to be going in two weeks... I cannot wait!
”
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How To. . . Build
An Art Collection
how to...
“Collectors are happy people.” Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Collecting Basics things to keep in mind when shopping for art Educate yourself. Visit galleries, museums, auctions, and art websites. Find out what you love (listen to your gut!) and don’t be afraid to ask questions about work that intrigues you. Think in themes. Perhaps you’d like to collect pieces of a specific medium (just photography), artist (only Bella Foster), or genre (abstract expressionism). Collecting based on a specific theme or interest will help keep your collection cohesive and keep you focused. Start small. Can’t afford an original? Buy a print. Frame an advertisement or editorial that was shot by one of your favorite photographers. Pull the trigger. You may not have a place for it yet, but you may someday. Don’t let an incredible limited edition pass you by. You’ll regret it, trust us.
Where to Shop gold mines of artistic treasures • Art galleries, museum shops, and auction houses • Art graduate school exhibitions • Art fairs and expos • Bookshops (we love to frame pages from art books!) • F lea markets, estate sales, and antique shops • Online (be sure to see our directory!)
Tip! Can’t afford custom framing? Buy a standard size frame larger than the artwork and simply have the frame shop cut a custom mat. Skipping the custom frame will save you a pretty penny and the finished presentation will still look fantastic. matchbook
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how to...
Female Art Collectors in History Isabella Claribel (1864– Stewart 1929) and Etta Gardner (1840 Cone (1870– 1924) 1949) The Cone sisters of Baltimore, Maryland amassed one of the greatest collections of modern French art in America. In addition to paintings by Matisse, Cézanne, and Gauguin, they also collected 18th-century French jewelry, Japanese prints, Middle Eastern textiles, African sculpture, and much more. Over 3,000 works from the collection are now housed in The Cone Wing at the Baltimore Museum of Art.
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The stylish founder of Boston’s famous Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum was a legendary American philanthropist, art collector, and patron of the arts. A friend of Henry James and John Singer Sargent, Isabella was known for her love of travel and eccentric fashions. She directed her architect to model her museum on the Renaissance palaces of Venice.
Peggy Guggenheim (1898 - 1979) Perhaps history’s most acclaimed female collector, the wealthy heiress and bohemian assembled an acclaimed art collection in Europe and America in the 1930s and '40s. She eventually settled in Italy, where she exhibited her collection in Venice. It remains on display there today as part of the Guggenheim Foundation founded by her uncle Solomon.
how to...
Gertrude Stein (1874 - 1946) The influential 20th century writer was a great patron of the arts. Born in Pennsylvania, she spent most of her life in France where she collected Post-Impressionist paintings. She and her brother Leo created a famous salon for artists and intellectuals to gather and exchange ideas.
Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney (1875 – 1942)
Flora Payne Whitney (1897 – 1986)
A Vanderbilt that mar- The daughter of Gerried into the Whittrude, Flora worked ney family, Gertrude closely with her mothfounded New York’s er to found the Whitfamous Whitney Mu- ney Museum. After her seum of American Art mother’s death, Flora in 1931. In addition to served as the museum’s being an art collector president and later and patron, she was a chairman. sculptress herself and even studied under Auguste Rodin in Paris.
Tip! Keep yourself in the loop. Get on gallery mailing lists so you're aware of openings and special events. Also consider buying an annual membership to your favorite local museums. It’s economical if you you visit often and you’re supporting a great cause.
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how to...
Start Collecting! a few of our favorites for every style
ITEMS: botanical no.5633 by Kari Herer, Keri Herer Photography, $30 • Pink Espadrilles by Anne Lively, Zatista, $120 • Taking Tea by Jenny Bowers, Wayne Pate, $75 • Feelings by Panni Malekzadeh, Artspace, $4,500 • Blue Ribbon by Lisa Golightly, Poster Cabaret, $30 • Triumph in Brussels by Duncan Hannah, Exhibition A, $100 54
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For the Traditionalist
how to...
For the Bohemian
“Each time you purchase a piece of art, you're investing in a piece of history and in another person's life.” Diane Overmyer
ITEMS: My Butt by Helena Wurzel, 20x200, $24 • Great Adventure by Leah Flores, Society6, $18 • Bamboo Forest by Bastienne Schmidt, Artspace, from $200 • Wild Flowers by Cassia Beck, Society6, $21 • Animal Locomotion: Plate 733 by Eadweard Muybridge, 20x200, $60 • To Belong, 2008 by Damien Hirst, Artspace, $3,250 •
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For the Modernist
“Buying art is the same thing as falling in love.” Nohra Haime
ITEMS: Bouquet Black by Wayne Pate, Wayne Pate, $75 • My Tour de France Minimal Poster by Chungkong, Society6, $18 • Salt Water Cure by Tina Crespo, Society6, $19 • Pink Zebra, Tiny Showcase, $20 • Approaching Shadow by Fan Ho, Artspace, $7,000 • Drawing of the Day by Daniel Horowitz #167, Stampa, $200 • Bahia Still Life by Billy Sullivan, Artspace, $250 56
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For the Fashionista
“I primarily buy art to show it off.” Charles Saatchi
ITEMS: Chelsea Hotel by Pamela Hanson, Artspace, $250 • Skates No. 2 by Ron Ulicny, Artspace, $450 • Boudoir Chandelier by Madeleine Paternot, ArtWeLove, from $50 • Mill Valley 9.5.08 by Lisa Wiseman, Saatchi Online, $450 matchbook
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Directory the Matchbook girl’s favorite online art sources 20x200 ArtWeLove Art.com Artspace Edition One Hundred Etsy
“Don't be surprised if you find me sitting in one of the rooms with a cup of coffee, staring at a wall. I'm just looking at a picture, and I'm closer to heaven than I'll ever be in my life.” Jack Warner
Exhibition A Minted Poster Cabaret Saatchi Online Society6 Stampa Tiny Showcase Wayne Pate Zatista
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Tip! These days you don’t have to have a million dollars to have big name artists in your collection. Sites like Exhibition A release limited edition prints from prominent contemporary artists such as Jessica Craig-Martin (we love her photographs!) and Damien Hirst for a fraction of what you might find them elsewhere.
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Further Reading books to educate and inspire
Get Inspired! our favorite museums and auction houses from coast to coast Auction Houses. Christie’s • Sotheby’s • Bonhams
The $12 Million Dollar Stuffed Shark: The Curious Economics of Contemporary Art, Amazon, $12 • Seven Days in the Art World, Amazon, $11 • The Art of Buying Art: An Insider's Guide to Collecting Contemporary Art, Amazon, $16 • The Girl with the Gallery, Amazon, $18
Museums. The Museum of Modern Art New York, San Francisco • The Metropolitan Museum of Art - New York • New Museum - New York • Whitney Museum of American Art New York • Guggenheim - New York • The Frick Collection - New York • de Young Museum - San Francisco • Legion of Honor - San Francisco • The J. Paul Getty Museum - Los Angeles • National Gallery of Art Washington, D.C. • The Renwick Gallery - Washington, D.C. • Philadelphia Museum of Art Philadelphia • Museum of Fine Arts - Boston • Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum - Boston • The Art Institute of Chicago - Chicago • The Museum of Fine Arts - Houston • High Museum of Art - Atlanta matchbook
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MATCHBOOK PAYS A VISIT TO DEMPSEY & CARROLL Written by Rowen Hahn • Photography by Rima Campbell
The Matchbook girl takes her paper collection very seriously and a trip to New York is never complete without a visit to Dempsey & Carroll. The famed stationer’s Upper East Side boutique is brimming with custom engraved designs from preppy monogrammed calling cards to the sleekest of letterhead. Since their founding in 1878, the company has established itself as one of the nation’s preeminent stationers. Collaborations with style icons such as Trina Turk and Simon Doonan prove they’re thoroughly modern to boot. We sat down to discuss the importance of personal style and the handwritten note.
the dempsey & car roll stor e fron t in 1942
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Dempsey & Carroll has been around since the nineteenth century. What can you tell us about the company’s early days?
Dempsey & Carroll was founded by John Dempsey, a talented engraver who worked for nearly every jeweler, stationer, and bookseller in New York City, and George Carroll, who had a strong business and advertising background. Mr. Dempsey was clearly the craftsman of the two, but Mr. Carroll’s contributions were certainly just as important. He realized that by writing books on social etiquette, the company could educate the public as well as advertise the brand and its products, becoming the authority on good taste and social decorum. These books and pamphlets were typeset, engraved and bound by Dempsey & Carroll, making the company a household name in New York City at the time. They sound lovely! Who wrote the books and where are they now?
The majority of these books were written in the early 1880s by Mr. Carroll. They include titles such as The Art of Correspondence, matchbook
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Wedding Etiquette, and The Art of Dinner Giving, and officially they were “souvenirs for our patrons.” Some are simply etiquette manuals containing fabulous examples of engraved monograms and family crests sprinkled throughout, while others read more like a literary compendium. We’ve collected many titles over the years and keep them on the premises of our flagship store on Lexington Avenue. Your boutique is one of our favorite shops in all of New York. When did the first store come about?
The first store and factory were located at 46 East 14th Street in Union Square between University Place and Broadway. By February 1889, Dempsey & Carroll had moved around the corner and acquired the entire building at 36 East 14th Street to accommodate their quickly expanding enterprise. Over the years, we’ve moved a number of times, but we’ve always been a New York City-based company. We’re especially taken with your custom calling
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cards. How were they traditionally used?
Calling cards have been around for centuries, but they reached the height of their popularity during the Gilded Age of the late 19th century. They were used to announce that someone had called upon the house. In other words, you would present your card to the butler, who would take it to the lady of the house if she was home, or it could be left
behind to let her know you’d stopped by. Different corners of the card might be turned down to indicate the intention of the visit, such as expressing condolences or congratulations. Did all the early cards look similar?
In terms of style, there were very rigid specifications as to the design. For example, different sizes were used to indicate whether the card
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belonged to a man or a woman or whether he or she was married. They almost never had any information other than the name and were typically white cards engraved with black ink in a script typestyle. How do you work with clients today to ensure the cards reflect their personal taste?
There are several factors that help to shape the look of a calling card: the size of the card, paper color, typestyle, and ink color are among the most prominent. A traditional typestyle in a subtle ink color like gray is perfect for a classic look, while other customers might want to get creative and do something unexpected like gray paper or a vertical orientation. But then it’s also fun when you mix the traditional and creative, pairing a classic color combination of black ink on ecru stock with a modern sans-serif typestyle, or doing a traditional, intricate monogram in neon orange. Should your use dictate the design?
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also dictate its appearance. If you’re using it for professional contacts in an industry full of traditionalists, it would be wise to keep your card simple and classic. But if you work in a creative field, the combination of bright pink ink on blue paper could be totally appropriate and would make a memorable impression. Can you tell us a bit about the engraving process?
Engraving is a process in which metal or another hard surface is carved and then used as a die or plate for printing onto paper. Words and images are cut in reverse into the die or plate with a sharp object, and then the plate is then placed into the engraving press. It is quickly inked and wiped of excess before each impression, leaving ink in the recessed areas of the letters.
sion area, called a “bruise.” The bruise and the tactile feel of raised matte ink on the front of the paper are the signatures of genuine engraving.
When paper is fed by hand into the press, approximately three thousand pounds of pressure are applied, forcing parts of the soft, cotWhat special touches ton paper into the recessed do you recommend for the person looking to areas. The ink that was in make a particularly these areas now adheres to the paper. If you look at the luxurious statement back of a card or sheet, the with their cards? paper will reveal the impres- Opting for a thicker card
stock is the easiest way to make a major impression. The experience is such a tactile one – you physically hand them something that represents you, and as soon as that card hits their fingertips, they stop mid-sentence and say, “Oh, wow.” They can feel how special it is. We love that. What information do you recommend one put
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on their calling card?
The concept of less is more definitely applies here. If you try to cram every personal detail into a small space, it just looks crowed, not polished. Simply using your name and an email or phone number (whichever you use more) makes for a sleek, handsome card. Or better yet, stick with just a name and write your phone number or email on the back. It’s a very personal touch, showing the recipient that you don’t give this information out to just anyone.
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What clever uses have you seen for calling cards today?
The twist of old-meetsnew is very charming – a conservative looking card adorned with simply a twitter handle, for example. It shows people, yes, I know all about tradition and etiquette, but I’m not a technophobe either. I happily embrace both. Sometimes taking a witty approach to designing your calling card is exactly the type of thing that gets you noticed. And, after all, that’s what these cards are for: making a lasting impression.
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C alling C ar d S ale ! M ar k your calen dar ! I n August Dempsey & Carroll's calling cards , regularly priced at $245, are on sale for $170. Choose from all five paper colors and any ink color and typeface .
How's a
M atchbook girl to decide?
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY Sarah Winchester WRITTEN BY MACKENZIE HORAN
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Erin Gates founded her popul ar design blog Elements of St yle in 2007, the same year Marie Whitney traveled to Africa for the first time. Fast forward to 2012 and the two have l aunched Two Penny Blue, a collection of tailored bl azers intended to fl at ter women of all ages and to benefit young girls in Africa by donating a school uniform with every sale. Here Erin and Marie dish on owning a small business, wearing their own wares, and the importance of giving back.
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“We have a fresh perspective and we’re not afraid to break the rules a bit.” marie
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“Don’t be afraid to dream big and take risks. If you succeed you’ll be happy, and if you fail you’ll be smarter.” marie
Tell us a little about your respective backgrounds and how you crossed paths.
perspective and we’re not sion so she didn’t hesiafraid to break the rules tate. We share the same aesthetic, the same sense a bit. of humor, and the same work ethic. It makes for a Erin: I started my blog Elements of Style and my very productive and insanely fun work environdesign f irm about f ive ment. years ago after working in a few different f ields Erin: As a creative con(interiors, fashion, art, and event planning). I’ve sultant, I’m helping been consistently amazed shape the brand’s identity, product design, fabric, by all the opportuniand f it (which we spent ties available to a young woman running her own over a year and a half perfecting, much to the business. The world redismay of our patternally is your oyster if you just try — which is some- makers!). We work really times the scariest part. I well together bouncing owe everything I have to ideas off each other, which makes for a really my blog (which incidenamazing f inal product tally is how Marie and I in which every stitch has met!). been pondered over and How cool that you con- over. nected through blogging! What respective roles do you play in the business?
Marie: As founder and creative director, I wear a lot of different hats: sketching designs, choosMarie: My background ing fabrics and trim, is in business and policy, planning photo shoots, which have been incred- editing photos for the ible assets in launching website, accounting and Two Penny Blue. Howev- marketing. Since we’re er, with no formal train- a small company we do ing in fashion, it’s been whatever needs to get quite an adventure learn- done. I approached Erin ing the ropes! Although about becoming the style it has made the process director and she was more challenging, it’s thrilled. Her plate is very also been an advantage full but she loved the because we have a fresh idea and the social mis-
I love that you emphasize how much fun you have at work. How did you come up with the name Two Penny Blue?
Marie: The name is a historical reference to the Two Penny Blue stamp, one of the world’s f irst adhesive postage stamps. The stamp was released in the United Kingdom in May 1840, beautifully designed and nobly conceived. It was a portrait of Queen Victoria at age f ifteen and it celebrated women in power, education, and democracy. matchbook
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It’s a beautiful piece of history and perfectly captures the mission of our company. The name also pays homage to my mom, Penny, who started her own business at age eighteen and has always inspired me with her big heart and entrepreneurial spirit. Your collection will focus on women’s blazers (a must for all Matchbook girls!). Why that piece in particular?
Marie: I thought it would be great to focus on one piece and really do it well. Jackets and blazers were a perfect choice. They’re timeless, sophisticated, and work on women of all ages and body types. How is your aesthetic represented in each piece from the collection?
Erin: I’d say the line is ref lective of the woman we see as our ideal buyer: preppy but with an edge, professional but wellrounded, creative but business-minded, and a whole lot of fun! We want the pieces to be lifelong classics that are anything but boring. Each jacket has its own subtle personality and can be dressed up or down dematchbook
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pending on the lifestyle it that women would reach comes to be part of ! for season after season. Marie: The collection is comprised of classic silhouettes that have been updated to ref lect a modern aesthetic. For me, it’s that unexpected twist that makes a piece feel fresh and fun. We took a menswear-inspired tuxedo and tailored the waist, sleeve, and shoulder to cut an undeniably feminine and subtly sexy silhouette. We wanted to create modern classics
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I can sense my wishlist expanding by the second! What was the process of designing each blazer like?
Marie: We scoured the globe for the f inest fabrics we could f ind, from hand-dyed silks in India to pima sateen from Italy. We spent two years perfecting the f it with a development team in New York’s garment district that has worked
“We want the pieces to be lifelong cl assics that are any thing but boring.” erin
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with incredible brands like Alice + Olivia and Theory. The entire line is made in New York City in small quantities with a big emphasis on high quality and attention to detail. You’ve decided to donate a percentage of all proceeds to funding uniforms for a girls’ school in Africa. That’s amazing! How did you land on that cause?
Marie: I traveled to Africa in 2007 and worked with some amazing schools and non-prof it organizations. It was an extraordinary experience and I saw f irsthand how education transforms lives. I love fashion, but nothing drives me more than the desire to empower women and children in need. Although
school is often free, each year millions of girls are denied the chance to attend school because they can’t afford a school uniform. With an education, African girls are three times less likely to contract HIV/AIDS and can earn up to twentyf ive percent more. For every blazer purchased we donate a new school uniform to a girl in need. This small gesture provides them with dignity, hope, and a chance at a better life. Erin: As a product of an all-girls school that really changed my life, I felt a passion for helping educate women as well. We thought that it gave more weight and purpose to the brand other than just making pretty jackets. We hope that people feel like they are giving
"I love fashion but nothing drives me more than the desire to empower women and children in need." marie
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back while also getting something gorgeous for themselves! You both have an incredible sense of purpose. What’s the best bit of advice you’ve received along the way?
Erin: When in doubt, ask. I think that by admitting what we didn’t know, we ended up making great strides and learning a ton. The fashion world is incredibly intimidating, but if you just admit what you don’t know and ask each vendor and advisor for their best advice, you’ll f ind that most are more than willing to help you out. Marie: Don’t be afraid to dream big and take risks. If you succeed you’ll be happy, and if you fail you’ll be smarter. So go for it! That’s awesome advice. What’s one item from your debut collection that you can’t live without?
Marie: I live in the Cambridge blazer – it is a modern take on the classic British school boy blazer. The cut is incredibly f lattering and the colors are just beautiful. I wear it with everything from black cigarette pants for a work meeting to jeans and a tank for a 84
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casual weekend look.
SO incredible on the body we were shocked! Erin: I’m personally nuts I think it’s a unique cut about our cropped jackand so f lattering on so et. At f irst when we saw many shapes and ages. It the muslin of it on the speaks to never judging a hanger in our production book by its cover because off ices we both thought everyone who has seen it it was a miss. Then we on us has been bananas tried it on and it looked about it!
the MATCHBOOK GIRL’s two penny blue PICKS
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I NT E R NAT I O NAL INS P I R AT I O N
Mackenzie Horan P H OTOGR A P H Y B Y Courtney Apple WR I TTE N B Y
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AITLIN WILSON AND HER BUSINESS STUDENT HUSBAND LIVED IN LONDON, DUBAI, AND HONG KONG BEFORE SETTLING IN PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA. CAITLIN FILLS HER DAYS AS AN INTERIOR DECORATOR, TEXTILE DESIGNER, AND THE VOICE BEHIND ONE OF OUR FAVORITE BLOGS. DID WE MENTION SHE’S ALSO A NEW MOTHER OF TWO? WE CAUGHT UP WITH THIS MULTITASKING WONDER WOMAN FOR A TOUR OF HER PHILADELPHIA HOMEAND THE 411 ON HOW SHE DOES IT ALL... matchbook
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First of all, congratulations on your new little one! Penn is absolutely adorable. How does Olivia like being a big sister?
Thank you! She is so in love with him. She repeats everything I say. “Hello, little buddy!” “You’re so cute... Yes, you are, yes, you are!” It’s so sweet. I love hearing her little “conversations” with him. Some of the best moments I’ve had have been in the last few months as I experience being a mother of two. The combination of funny toddler talk and newborn cuddles is heavenly. That’s so sweet. I’m very impressed that you work from home raising your family, running your interior decorating business, and creating your textile collection. How do you stay on top of it all?
office throughout the day Middle East. I fell in love and often feed Penn on the with the beautiful chevron It’s hard to stay on top of couch while I answer emails. and trellis patterns that I anything these days but I try saw on mosques, in buildmy best to be really orgaings, and on rugs all over Quite the multi-tasknized and keep a running Dubai. Hong Kong was er! Let’s talk a little list of to dos. I work well full of incredible florals about your textile under pressure so I usually designs, which you sell and geometric patterns — as fabric as well as have a million things goI would walk down Holpillows. What was your ing on at once, partially by lywood Road and stare at inspiration for launchchoice. My assistant Mari fretwork on antiques and ing the collection? has been amazing during tapestries. The Fleur ChiMy inspiration came from this transition to two kids. noise pattern was inspired my travels in Asia and the I come in and out of the by some beautiful gold floral 90
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“I WORK WELL UNDER PRESSURE SO I USUALLY HAVE A MILLION THINGS GOING ON AT ONCE, PARTIALLY BY CHOICE.”
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screens I found! Right now I’m working on a handful of new patterns and colorways for the fall collection. We can’t wait to see! You’re originally from the San Francisco Bay area but have lived in London, Dubai, and Hong Kong with your husband. What did you love most about each city?
Living abroad was such an incredible experience that I feel so blessed to have had. I love the tradition and charm, the sophistication that comes with being a Londoner. Dubai was next and the place we lived the longest — I really miss it there. I loved the food, the shopping, and the melting pot of cultures you find there. And I loved the energy of Hong Kong, bustling and busy and everyone in a hurry to get somewhere. My style is probably most influenced by Asia. The patterns and motifs are timeless! Speaking of your style, we’re smitten with your home! The gallery wall in your foyer is amazing. How would you describe your aesthetic?
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without being too serious. I like classic silhouettes but always add a bright color or bold pattern — better yet, both! I am a gold fiend so in my foyer I added some handmade art, prints, photos, and antlers into the mix of all the gold gilded frames to give it some quirkiness. It’s the perfect mix! Your blog is an excellent resource for decorating on a budget. What advice would you give Matchbook girls looking to redecorate without breaking the bank?
Thank you so much! I would say to save on furniture and accessories and splurge on fabric and pillows. They make such a statement in an otherwise normal space. Get creative with what you have. Paint an old piece of furniture, reupholster your parents’ old wingback, or reinvent an old classic piece from their attic. And look everywhere for good accessories — you can find them in the darndest of places!
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“I LIKE CLASSIC SILHOUETTES BUT ALWAYS ADD A BRIGHT COLOR OR BOLD PATTERN — BETTER YET, BOTH!”
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CAITLIN’S PHILADELPHIA FAVORITES Classic Lighting for El Vez Fabric Row
for Mexican food
on 4th Street for fabrics and trim
JAck B. Fabrics
for upholstery chenilles and velvets
Parc Restaurant
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beautiful chandeliers
for a French café feel
editor’s wishlist
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DEMOCRATIZIN G FA S H I O N
written by MACKENZIE HORAN photography by COOPER CARRAS
Susan Koger founded a vintage clothing website the summer between graduating high school in South Florida and starting college at Carnegie Mellon. Ten years later, ModCloth is a fashion powerhouse, casting a spotlight on independent designers and changing the way women shop online. We caught up with Susan in her San Francisco home where we chatted about female entrepreneurship, vintage shopping, and a charming little pug named Winston. 102
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You launched ModCloth in 2002 with your now husband Eric. Did you always have an entrepreneurial instinct?
ModCloth really started as a hobby business. I was preparing for a move to Pittsburgh and didn’t own a single coat. Once I started thrifting for winter wear, I realized how much great vintage stuff was out there. Eric is definitely the born entrepreneur, the one who really encouraged me to start the website. My birth as an entrepreneur probably wasn’t until the first sale. After that I was bit by the bug — once items sold out, I got to go out and shop for more! It must have been crazy juggling a college courseload and an online business.
I used to leave the library to pick up calls from customers! The customer care line was my cell phone number and I packed orders out of my dorm room. It was great to have those first few years to learn about the industry and our customers. By the time I was approaching graduation in 2006, we were getting 70,000 visitors a month! Since then ModCloth has expanded to include offices in Los Angeles and San Francisco, where you live. What respective roles do you and Eric play in the company?
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I’m Chief Creative Officer and he’s the Chief Executive Officer. It was really important to us when we started that between the two of us we could do everything. I could handle the customers and the merchandise and he dealt with the engineering aspect. These days I work with our buying and merchandising teams, working hands-on
with the product and walking trade shows to see what’s new. Eric concentrates on the operational side of the business – everything from fulfilling orders to hiring new people. He focuses a lot on the culture of the company as well. Speaking of company culture, we hear ModCloth employees are allowed to bring their dogs to work!
Yes! We call them Mod dogs. It definitely makes for a more interesting place to work! We got our pug Winston in 2004 and he’s kind of been our official company mascot. There’s a little logo of him at the bottom of every page on the website. That’s amazing! Tell me a little about the Make The Cut competition you did
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on the site recently.
Make The Cut is a really exciting contest where we opened up an inspiration board and asked our community to put up sketches of their designs. The community voted on the designs and the top ninety went on our Facebook page, where people could “like” the designs they wanted to see on the site. The top seven designs are going in production with the designers’ names on the tag so they can really see their vision come to life. The first collection has launched and the items are now available on the site! It’s awesome to work with people who have great ideas but no means of production – definitely something we want to keep doing more! What a cool concept. Would you say the ModCloth aesthetic is pretty vintage-inspired?
Absolutely. I’m all about going out there and finding independent designers who are doing incredible things. I’m drawn to vintage because I’ve never wanted to look like everyone else. But really everything is vintage-inspired – a fit-and-flare dress from the 50s, leggings from the 80s... Speaking of which, your own closet is brimming with vintage finds. What
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are some of your favorite scores over the years?
I found a bright red Dior wool coat for $15 at the Goodwill in Pittsburgh. It was one of those moments that made all the times I’d gone thrifting and left empty-handed worth it. I’ve worn it to fashion events and had the chicest women asking me where I bought it! And then my grandmother is one of my biggest style inspirations and worked in a department store in the 60s and 70s. She had this amazing leopard fur coat that I always coveted and she gave it to me for Christmas a few years ago! That’s so sweet! She must be so proud of you. You and Eric were named #2 and #3 respectively on Inc. magazine’s list of America’s coolest entrepreneurs under thirty in 2009. What does being a female entrepreneur mean to you?
At first it wasn’t something I thought a lot about. We were pretty isolated from the entrepreneurial community living in Pittsburgh. But now I’m really passionate about talking to kids in high school and college who are thinking about their next career move. I want them to know that entrepreneurship is an option! It’s not an easy one and you have to have the right personality type and be willing to put a lot on the 110
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“ I u sed to l ea v e the l i b rar y to pick u p ca l l s from c u stomers ! T he c u stomer care l ine was m y ce l l phone n u m b er and I packed orders o u t of m y dorm room . ”
R ESOU R CES F O R ENT R E P R ENEU R IA L W OMEN Ladies Who Launch Women 2.0 Astia
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line. But it’s incredibly rewarding to work for yourself and see your vision come together. We definitely need more founders out there!
Make The Cut. The ModClothgirl is very creative, welcomes different perspectives, and recognizes fashion as a big part of who she is and how she presents herIn terms of your vision, self. And I’m always incredwhere would you like to ibly taken by how smart our see ModCloth ten years customers are! We like to from now? think we’re democratizing I think we’ll continue to em- fashion – we’re very passionpower our customers and get ate about giving our customthem engaged in our com- ers a voice in what we do. munity through things like
What advice would you offer aspiring entrepreneurial types?
The most important thing is to do what you love. Even if you’re not entrepreneurial and want to pursue a more traditional path, you have to find something you’re passionate about. The hours are too long and you’re working too hard to do something you don’t absolutely love! matchbook
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THE MATCH B OO K G I R L ’ S
MODC L OTH P IC K S LACE ON THE LAKE HAT $23
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ADDRESS YOUR FANS LAPTOP SLEEVE $44
TOO MUCH FUN IN BUBBLES DRESS $80
SLIDE INTO SUMMER SANDAL $33
TALLY HOME DOORMAT $27
WHOOPSIE DAISY EARRINGS $13
COASTAL CALL BAG $65
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QUITE A HULL BAG $55
MAINE COURSE OVEN MITT $18
DIAL ‘P’ FOR ‘PRINCESS’ PHONE $55
CAT EYE CUTIE SUNGLASSES $12
SPECIAL EDITION DIANA MINI CAMERA $110
SWEATER $75
BRUNCH WITH BUDS DRESS $110
PARIS IN COLOR BY NICHOLE ROBERTSON $20
SAIL BOW FLAT $33
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directory
m.
May28th facebook twitter website Modcloth facebook twitter website
c.
Beautiful Ruins by Jess Walter The Infinite Tides by Christian Kiefer
on the stereo Elton John, Classic Album Selection (1970-73)
Caitlin Wilson Design facebook twitter website
Dirty Projectors, Swing Lo Magellan
d.
at the box office Farewell, My Queen
Deborah Lippmann facebook twitter website
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Dempsey & Carroll facebook twitter website
two penny blue facebook twitter website
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on our shelf The Age of Miracles by Karen Thompson Walker
The Red House by Mark Haddon
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may we suggest...
t.
Trishna
what's in your bag?
Elizabeth Taylor illustrator kristina hultkrantz imagines the fabulous finds inside elizabeth taylor's bag. Adore this american icon as much as we do? The print is available in Kristina's etsy shop!
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just married
Sarah & Chris Heckle The Location... The Mansion at Oak Hill in Carmel, Indiana We met... in college. Mutual friends introduced us on Valentine’s Day. The proposal... was at Chris’ apartment after a weekend spent with family. It was very sweet! My dress... was the first I tried on. None of the others compared! It was Essence of Australia. It felt very "us" because... we love antiquing together, and our décor was full of vintage and antique touches. We honeymooned in... Punta Cana, Dominican Republic. Soft, white beaches and clear, blue water – just beautiful! Photography by Sara Ackermann
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just married
Tracy & Alex Georgiou The Location... City Hall, New York City We met... outside a fashion show at London Fashion Week. The proposal... was practiced over lunch with Sir Roger Moore playing my father. My dress... beautiful B – Baleciaga It felt very "us" because... it was a normal day in our lives (on a slightly bigger scale) – dinner at Gitane, dancing the night away at the Jane. We honeymooned in... not yet! Relaxing, beach suggestions welcome. :) Photography by Stephen K. Schuster matchbook
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odds and ends
share their latest obsessions... “The last thing I need is to start
collecting miniature chairs, but this little Eames elephant would make me smile so...” -katie Eames Elephant
Miniature Chair, MoMA Store, $225 “Can you imagine
the heads that would turn if you wore this on your next jaunt to the shore? Absolute perfection." -Katie Dolce
& Gabbana Bikini Top and Bottom, Net-APorter, from $255
“Nautical
rope gone glam and I like it.” -katie
Crystal Collar Necklace, Calypso St. Barth, $295
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“a perfect pop
of color for the desktop!” -Jane Jenny
Mini Ball Lamp in Pink- Set of Two, Furbish Studio, $210
odds and ends
“I love this watch's simple black leather strap. Such a classic." -katie Cooper
Watch, Kate Spade, $195 “Neat cards of Cecily Brown's paintings. Yes, please.” -katie Cecily
Brown Card Set, Gagosian Gallery, $15
“classic uniform
for a summer's day.” -Jane J.Crew Linen
Henley Tunic, NetA-Porter, $80
"a staple for any jewelry box." -jane
Kenneth Jay Lane Gold Twist Cabochon Stud Earrings, Shopbop, $50
"The prettiest gardening tools I ever did see." -jane
William Morris Watering Can and Gardening Tools, The Morgan Library and Museum shop, from $38 matchbook
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See you next month!
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pinterest and instagram!