Petkeeper’s Monthly What a Chain Pet Store will Never Tell You
VOL. 1 No. 1 May 7, 2014
Freshwater Fish Edition May 7, 2014 Next Month’s Edition: Small Animals
Things that chain pet stores won’t tell you about your favorite freshwater fish. Equipment suggestions, fish care advice, and more. Make better food for your fish. New to the hobby? Do you know about the nitrogen cycle yet?
Table of Contents 1. 2.
Why won’t a chain petstore tell you?
Goldfish
4. Common Misconceptions 5. What else you should know...
6.
Betta Splendens
10.
Plecostomus
8. Common Misconceptions 9. What else you should know...
14.
12. Common Misconceptions 13. What else you should know...
Oscar Cichlids
19.
Make your Own Fish Food
. 0 2
16. Common Misconceptions 17. What else you should know...
Nitrogen Cycle Basics
Functional
Fashionable www.fluvalaquatics.com
Why Won’t a Chain Pet Store Tell You? Once you start delving into research about fish, or any kind of pet that you would like to keep, you will quickly find that there is a lot of misinformation in chain pet stores, or that you might even see misinformation promoted at certain chain pet stores. But why? There are a few different reasons. The first reason is that the employee that you question may simply not know the correct answer. Even managers at chain stores probably do not know the best answers to serious pet related questions (unless they have owned that animal and done the proper rsearch themselves). Even in small, family owned pet stores, it is impossibly for every person to know everything about every animal. That’s why it’s the owners responsibility to do their reasearch and know how to take care of an animal before they buy it. So if you have picked up this magazine and are reading this now... congratulations! You are already doing research that will benefit your future pets! The second, and more unacceptable reason that misinformation runs rampant at chain stores, is that they simply want you to buy that animal, and buy food and housing that may or may not be appropriate for it, so that they can make more money. This is a sad, but true, reailty. They probably won’t tell you that the fish you purchase can’t live together. If those are the fish you want, they will sell them to you, rather than dissuade you from spending your money. And if those fish happen to die, or devour each other... well, if a buyer never discovers what is going wrong, they may well just keep buying more and more fish.
Cherry Shrimp
Black Moor
Petkeepers Monthly . 1
What a chain pet store will never tell you about...
Goldfish
4. Petkeepers Monthly
Common Misconceptions: Healthy, well-kept goldfish can actually live up to twenty years. Even longer life spans have been recorded and are more common than you might expect. However, they will not live nearly this long when placed in a tiny bowl. The life span of a fish in a bowl is where this misconception really comes from. If you plan on keeping a goldfish properly, you must consider whether you are willing to devote the time and care to a pet that could potentially live so long.
Moors, Ranchu, Orandas, or general Fan/Veil-Tails), don’t get quite as large. The rule of thumb most responsible and serious aquarists use is 20 gallons for the first fancy goldfish, and 10 more gallons for every goldfish added. If a goldfish is placed in a small bowl or tiny tank, they will not grow as large because their organs will continue to grow even though their external body stops growing. This is abusive and will eventually kill them, if the ammonia build up in the small enclosure doesn’t first.
2.) Goldfish don’t get very big. They don’t need an aquarium.
3.) Goldfish are stupid; they only have a three-second memory span.
Single-tail goldfish (Commons, Comets, and Shubunkins) are not fish that are suited to live in an indoor aquarium. They are pond fish, and if properly cared for will often reach the length of a foot or more. The goldfish you find in pet stores are small because they are very young. Fancy-tail goldfish, or double-tails (like Black
Goldfish may not react in the same way a domestic dog or cat might, but they are intelligent. When not kept in stressful conditions, they learn to recognize their owners quickly and will soon beg like puppies for food. When they are used to their owners hands being in the tank during maintenance, they will sometimes rub against them, sit on them, and nibble on fingers.
1.) Goldfish only live for a few years.
What else you should know... Many people have started out either their fishkeeping hobby or their petkeeping in general with a goldfish in a fish bowl. It has become so common that the image no longer seems out of place. To most, the idea of a goldfish in a large aquarium is preposterous. However, they should never be kept in anything less than the largest aquarium you can manage. In fact, almost nothing is suited to live in the infamous fish bowl (no, not even a betta fish). As one of the most commonly kept ornamental fish, Goldfish are sadly are also the most commonly abused because of misinformation and the marketing behind them at most pet stores. Two of the main reasons that bowls are not suitable for goldfish are size, and ammonia. As mentioned under “Common Misconceptions�, goldfish grow larger than most people realize. They are also extremely messy fish if their waste production is taken into consideration. Fish urine and feces, like that of all other animals, contains ammonia. Frequent water changes are what keep the level of ammonia at a minimum in a properly sized and cycled tank (see pg. ** For information about the nitrogen cycle.) Because goldfish produce so much ammonia with their waste, the levels within a fish bowl become toxic in a very short amount of time. It can burn their gills and skin, make it impossible
for them to breath, and leads to multiple health problems and inevitable death. Tank maintenance is a must with goldfish. Your tank maintenance kit should include a gravel vacuum (used to siphon debris, left over food, and fish feces from the bottom of the tank), a large bucket used only for tank cleaning (you must not use soap in this bucket, as the residue could harm your fish), and an algae-scraping pad. Your tank will need a weekly water change of around 30%, or a bi-weekly change of around 25%. Gravel-vacuuming weekly is highly recommended, again because of how messy goldfish are. Cleaning the glass of algae is easy; just scrape it off with either a purposemade pad, or a tank-only cloth. Algae will not harm your fish, but because of all the nutrients going into the water it can grow quickly in a goldfish tank and quickly obscure your view. Generally, all you need to do to change your pet’s water is remove the desired amount of water from the tank (which can be used to water your house plants or lawn), and add conditioned tap water of approximately the same temperature back to the tank. Also, your goldfish must have a filter... the myth that goldfish are fine without one is also incorrect.
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What a chain pet store will never tell you about...
Betta Splendens
8. Petkeepers Monthly
Common Misconceptions: 1.) Bettas don’t need a heater. This is completely untrue. Betta Splendens are fish that originate from a tropical climate, therefore it is important for their water to be heated. Because of their hardy nature, a betta might be able to survive in cold water, but their color will be brighter and they will become much more active and interesting to watch in water that is properly heated. Cold water may also compromise the immune system of a betta.
2.) Betta Fish can live in less than a gallon of water. Like Goldfish, many people assume that bettas can be kept in a tiny bowl. While your betta is more likely to survive longer in a bowl than a goldfish, it is still a cruel practice that will not allow the fish to live to its full potential. 3 gallons is the smallest size recommended to house a Betta. 5 gallons is
the preferable size, because it is easier to keep the peramiters of the water stable in a larger tank.
3.) Bettas can’t be kept with other fish. Some fish keepers avoid bettas because they believe them to be boring, as they think they can only be kept in a tank all to themselves. The personality of each fish may differ, but most male bettas can be kept in larger tanks with species of fish that are non aggressive and are not bright enough to provoke the betta. Female bettas can even be kept in groups of the same species! Together in groups of 5 or more, the aggression between the females is spread out so that no one fish is constantly bullied. (NOTE: Do not attempt to keep a male and a female betta together. They must only be placed together to breed and then separated, otherwise they will fight and possibly harm or kill each other.)
What else you should know... Bettas are among the most wellknown fish in the hobby because they are available in a wide range of colors and fin types. They have been selectively bred to enhance certain characteristics for centuries. Initially they were bred to enhance their aggression so they could be fought as a form of entertainment and gambling, and then bred for color and variation in fin forms as aquarium fish. The first thing to consider is the container. A single male betta (or several females) can be kept in a community aquarium with peaceful fish that will not nip its fins. Care should be taken when choosing tankmates to avoid any that will pick on or otherwise stress the betta. Consideration must also be given to the form of its tankmates. As an example, I do not recommend keeping male bettas with fancy guppies, as the betta will frequently interpret the male guppy’s finnage as the fins of another male betta and attack the guppy. Temperatures in your betta’s tank should be in the upper 70s, ideally about 78° to 80° for general maintenance and a bit warmer for spawning. One of the issues many betta keepers face is their lack of activity when kept in the typical bowl or vase at room temperature. Because fish are cold-blooded animals, they are less active in
cooler water. A betta maintained at 78° to 80° will be much more active than one maintained at 70°, so choose a heater that you can adjust or that automatically hovers around these temperatures. There are a number of pellet and flake foods marketed specifically for bettas, and many of these can serve as the basic diet for your fish. Bloodworms in both the freeze-dried and frozen forms are also marketed as a diet for bettas, but these should be regarded as a supplemental or treat food and should not form the bulk of the diet. For general maintenance, bettas should be fed once or twice a day. All the food should be eaten within one minute. If there is food remaining after this time, it should be removed. Live foods are also beneficial and offer a great way to supplement the diet. You can find a variety at most pet stores, or collect mosquito larvae. The idea that bettas will feed on a plant’s roots was a myth that was sold to unsuspecting keepers along with the vases while they were in vogue. Let’s put that idea to rest right now: Bettas are carnivorous! If kept in a vase with a plant and not fed, they will starve to death. Just as with any other fish, feeding the proper diet is essential to their health and well being.
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What a chain pet store will never tell you about...
Plecostomus
12. Petkeepers Monthly
Common Misconceptions: 1.) You have to have a “Sucker Fish” in every tank to keep it clean. Although most plecostomus will feed on excess algae in an aquarium, they do not necessarily keep your tank any cleaner. The large amount of feces they produce negates most of any kind of cleaning benefit they might provide. Also, very small tanks are not suited for the life of a pleco. The common pleco grows too large for anything less than a 75-gallon tank. If you have a smaller tank and are seeking a fish that will look nice as a bottom feeder, consider Cory catfish instead, or one of the smaller species of plecostomus. The best way to keep your tank clean is frequent water changes, avoiding over feeding, and wiping the glass down with an algae scraper or cloth.
2.) Plecos don’t need to be fed. Many people purchasing common plecos don’t believe that they need to feed them. It is a common
mistake that they only need algae growing on the aquarium glass and that they will consume waste from the bottom of the tank. While they will munch on algae and left over fish food, they will not eat fish waste (most creatures will not), and they require A LOT of food. There is a wide variety of food produced specifically for algae eating plecos, and there are many fresh vegetables you can provide for them as well.
3.) Plecostomus only eat algae. Some varieties of pleco don’t eat algae at all. Most are omnivorous, with some requiring a higher protein diet than others. Some are specifically carnivorous. If a Pleco is not being fed enough, or not being fed the correct diet, it may turn on other fish in the tank, feeding on their slime coats or even completely devouring smaller fish. Most types of Plecostomus will leave your other fish alone, even if they are carnivores, as long as they are given enough of their own food, but this may not always be the case.
What else you should know... The plecostomus is one of the most sought-after and misunderstood aquarium fish available today. Many people will purchase a pleco believing it will act as a kind of janitor, cleaning up unwanted wastes and algae from their aquariums. It is true that plecos will sometimes eat excess food from the bottom of the tank and eat certain types of algae. They will not eat fish waste, however, and plecos produce more waste than almost any other aquarium fish. The true joys of owning a plecostomus are in its exotic, prehistoric looks and astounding size. Even in an aquarium, some plecos can reach up to 20 inches long. These fish are attractively spotted with a tall, prominent dorsal fin that catches the eye when on display. When purchasing a pleco, keep its adult size in mind. Most pet stores will sell them as juveniles and keep them in small tanks. Do not be confused. While smaller tanks will work fine when you purchase a plecostomus, you will need a 75-gallon tank or larger as it grows and matures. Your pleco will love to eat. Unfortunately, what goes in must come out. Since it will produce such a large amount of feces, you should place it in a tank with a strong filtration system. The tank should also be well aerated since the pleco naturally lives in
swift moving bodies of water. The species usually sold as a common plecostomus is vegetarian by nature and will enjoy sharing its tank with an assortment of broadleaved plants. Don’t get attached to the plants, though. An adult pleco will make very short work of them. Plecos also enjoy places to hide. Rocks, caves and driftwood are nice additions that will give the fish some cover. Use your imagination. A small, broken flowerpot turned upside down or a piece of PVC works just as well. Driftwood is a particularly good choice for plecos, since they love to chew on them. Do not use artificial driftwood unless you want a really disappointed pleco. The plecostomus is an easy fish to care for. However, despite a widely held misconception, the pleco is not a self-sufficient aquarium fish. It requires a varied diet high in plant foods like algae. You can even feed them romance lettuce, zucchini, cucumber, spinach or peas. Every now and then, plecos enjoy eating some meaty foods; so don’t be shy about giving it the occasional brine shrimp or bloodworm. If your pleco suddenly becomes aggressive toward other fish in the tank, it could be that its dietary needs are not being met. They have even been known to start feeding on the slime coat of other fish.
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What a chain pet store will never tell you about...
Oscar Cichlids
16. Petkeepers Monthly
Common Misconceptions: 1.) Oscars are piscivores (eat mainly fish). This is an understandable assumption given their structure and size, but it’s not true. Gut studies indicate that only 19% of the non-plant contents in wild Oscars’ stomachs were fish. If a fish happens to be near and the Oscar can nab it, he will (any large fish will, even ones considered to be herbivores). But that is not their preferred prey, insects are.
2.) Oscars make good beginner’s fish. Although Oscars are generally quite hardy fish, they are not appropriate for beginning fish keepers because of their sheer size and the amount of care required to accomodate such size. Most beginners are not willing to purchase a 75 gallon tank right off the bat, along with the size of filter needed to keep the water free of debris,
and are not used to performing large and frequent water changes. Even a hardy fish will succumb to disease and then death without the proper care.
3.) Oscars won’t outgrow their tank. This is one myth that is said about all fish by misinformed people. Generally, chain pet stores will not tell you this is untrue because the employees either don’t know, or the company wants you to buy the fish anyway, or a combination of these two things. Thus, this misconception is equally untrue about Oscars. Oscars are fast growing fish, and they will do that growing no matter what size tank they are in. Being housed in a tank that is too small leads to deformities and an eventual untimely death. There are smaller, equally interesting cichlid species to consider if you can not afford to house an Oscar right away.
What else you should know... Oscars (Astronotus ocellatus) were first introduced to the hobby in the early 30’s. It seems quite a few of the fish we consider to be common were first imported in this time period. When originally imported, these fish were not called Oscars. The common names given them were velvet cichlid and peacock eye cichlids. They got the name velvet cichlid due tot he fact that their scales are small and sometimes give the appearance of the fish being covered in velvet. They originate in the Amazon basin where they populate still or very slow moving waters. Feedomg on insects, crustaceans, and occasionally fish. They reach sizes of 10 to 14 inches! As large heavy-bodied fish, Oscars require a lot of space. The minimum size tank for a single Oscar should be 55 gallons. Some people recommend a 75 for one fish. These are big fish, and require big tanks, and the bigger the better. When it comes to water parameters, Oscars are relatively easy to care for. They can survive in a wide range, but do best with conditions that are as close to natural as possible. pH should be between 6.5 and 7, medium hardness, up to 10 DKH or so, and a temperature between 78-82 degrees Fahrenheit. As mentioned, Oscars are messy fish, and they require good filtration to remain healthy. However, because they come from slow moving water, they do not appreciate the equivalent of a raging river in their tanks. On a tank with a single Oscar, a good canister filter such as a Magnum 350, or one of
the larger Eheims in conjunction with a large HOB type like an Emperor 400 should function well. Whatever you use, good mechanical and biological filtration are an absolute must for an Oscar tank. You can not cut corners here. An oft-quoted rule of thumb is 10 times the water volume in water flow. That is a good starting point, but as with all such rules, it is only a guideline. Water changes are another aspect of fishkeeping that can’t be neglected if you want a healthy Oscar. No matter how well your tank is filtered, the filters are not going to keep the water free of the dissolved solids that water changes remove. While this is true of any aquarium, it is especially so in an Oscar tank. At the minimum you should do 50% once a week, with thorough gravel vacuuming. Oscars need a varied diet to do well. Earthworms, crickets, chopped shrimp, krill, crayfish all should supplement a good quality pellet food. Add to that brine shrimp, bloodworms and black worms for juvenile fish up to about 4 inches or so. Notice the lack of feeder fish on that list? Feeder fish can often carry diseases that will harm your beloved pet. Good diet and proper maintenance will prevent most problems in any tank, but as with any fish you will have to be aware that there are diseases your fish can contract. One disease that is a common problem with Oscars is Hold In the Head disease. It is uncertain what causes this disease, but it could be a lack of clean water, a poor diet, parasites, or the addition of carbon to the water.
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Make Your Own Fish Food! Sometimes the food that is available just doesn’t suit your individual pet’s needs. Or sometimes you just want to change it up a little. Either way, these two recipes will give you some ideas of what you can feed your aquatic friends. Although they will gladly eat algae and left over fish food, snails need extra calcium to keep their shells from becoming weak. Snail jello is
a great way to make sure your snails are getting the nutrition they need to stay healthy. Flake food for goldfish is alright, but if you have a goldfish that is prone to bloating and swim bladder issues, she may need a better alternative. This goldfish food recipe will stay in gel form and will sink instead of floating, so your fish doesn’t swallow any air while eating it.
Snail Jello
Goldie Food
ingredients: 1.) 4oz jar of baby food (I chose squash and green beens for my batches as they had the highest calcium content) 2.) 1 1/2 packs of Knox gelatin (plain unflavoured) 3.) 10-12 tums crushed into powder (berry flavor recommended) 4.)Some crushed fish food flakes. You can use fish flakes or algae wafers.
directions: 1.) Powder the tums, and fish food. 2.) Microwave baby food for about a minute, or heat the baby food on the stove until bubbling. 3.) Stir the 1 1/2 packs of gelatin into heated baby food until well blended. 4.) Stir in tums and other food until well blended. 5.) Pour into container (ice cube tray will work) and freeze.
ingredients: 1.) 2.) 3.) 4.) 5.) 6.) 7.) 8.)
12oz Package Frozen Peas and Carrots 12oz Package Frozen Broccoli 7.5oz Canned Pumpkin 6oz Can Salmon in Water 10mg Acidophilus Tablet 1 tsp Garlic Powder 3 Tbsp Paprika 4 Packets Non-Flavored Gelatin
directions: 1.) Cook peas, carrots, and broccoli according to instructions. 2.) Process Salmon in food processor to mushy consistency. 3.) Grind Acidophilus Tablet into powder. 4.) Process peas, carrots, and broccoli in food processor. 5.) Mix vegetables, salmon, pumpkin, and powders until well blended. 6.) Mix gelatin in 1 cup of cold water. Let sit for 5 min, then microwave for 3 min. 7.) Combine all ingredients and refrigerate.
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20. Petkeepers Monthly
Nitrogen Cycle Basics Cycling a Fish Tank What is Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle? The term “cycle” about the fish tanks usually refers to an aquarium nitrogen cycle. It is the biological process of ammonia (NH3) being converted to nitrite (NO2), and then the nitrite is converted to nitrate (NO3). Ammonia —–> Nitrite —–> Nitrate Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle is extremely important in fish keeping hobby, and fishless cycle is the best way to do it because you won’t be killing any fish in the process. All this information may seem boring to some, but it is extrememly important, as fish cannot survive long in a tank that has not completed this cycle.
Why do we need nitrogen cycle in an aquarium? Most living organisms generate ammonia as waste. Fish are no exception. Fish not only produce ammonia through their gills constantly, but also through their waste (poop), which will produce more ammonia as the waste breaks down. Ammonia poisoning is one of the leading causes of death for new fish, because the fish tanks they were in had never gone through an aquarium nitrogen cycle. In a well established fish tank, there are enough natural occurring bacteria to break down ammonia into nitrite, and there is also enough a different species of bacteria to break down nitrite into nitrate. Both ammonia and nitrite are toxic, and they are harmful even at the very slightest concentration, which is why they must stay at 0 in any fish tank. Nitrate on the other hand is harmless at low concentration, but it will weaken fish’s immune system when there is very high concentration. Most of the beneficial bacteria colonize only in the surface areas, such as the substrate, decorations, etc. However, the filter media has the most surface areas in a fish tank, and it is where majority of the good bacteria grow on. The process of “growing” enough
good bacteria in the fish tank is what we refer to as “cycle a fish tank”, or “aquarium cycling”.
What do I need in order to fishless cycle an aquarium? In order to cycle a fish tank, you need the following: 1. A fish tank of proper size, 2. An aquarium filter, 3. A heater if you will have tropical fish or if you want the cycle process to go faster, 4. One or two air stones, connected to a working air pump, 5. Water conditioner, 6. A liquid water test kit (I will explain it later) and 7. A constant source of ammonia (I will explain it later) I recommend you get a minimum size of a 5-gallon tank even for a single Betta. However, a 10-gallon is better because it is only around $13~14 (a 5-gallon tank is around $11), which means it doubles in size for slightly more cost. Also, more water means more stable water chemistry and temperature.
Steps of doing fishless cycling 1.)
The procedure of doing a fishless cycle is really straight forward. Start with having your fish tank set up and running, especially the filter, because it is where most of the good bacteria will grow on. You need to put only a few drops of pure ammonia into the fish tank water. Use the test kit to check the concentration. You can do with 2~3ppm (part per million) if you plan to add only a few fish at a time. If you plan to add full stock at once, 5~6ppm ammonia concentration is needed. A little note to everyone who might be thinking “how should I get the ammonia concentration mentioned above?” We are not doing some kind of medical procedure here, nor running a lab. In a fishless cycle, we risk nothing. There is no need to get the absolute precision on ammonia
concentration during a fishless cycle. All you need to do is to start small, drop only a few drops of pure ammonia into the tank, then take a measurement. If it measured at 1ppm, and you want 5ppm, then do another 4x dose. It is that simple. No need to be scared of adding too little or a little too much. As long as it is not over 8ppm or higher, the fishless cycle will proceed without interference. At higher than 8ppm ammonia, the fishless cycle might be stalled due to it is too toxic even for the bacteria. If somehow you overdosed a lot ammonia by accident, and the reading is off the scale, all you need to do is to do a partial water change to lower the ammonia concentration back to 5~6ppm. No worry there. After adding ammonia, all you can do is to wait. You need check the water with the test kit at least once a day to make sure there is always ammonia in the water. It is very important to know that ammonia can be released into the atmosphere slowly. You might see a drop in ammonia concentration without the nitrogen cycle reaching the next stage — the appearance of nitrite! My advice at this point is to be patient! It can take weeks before there is any nitrite at all. 2.) Once nitrite appears, it means the fishless cycle has entered the second stage. The group of bacteria (those feed on nitrite) will start to grow as well, as they would not start to increase in number until the nitrite appear. At this point in fishless cycle, what you should do is to continue adding ammonia on daily basis to keep ammonia concentration at your desired level, while keep testing the water twice a day (once in the morning, once in the evening) to see the changes in ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. 3.) Once the nitrate starts to appear, you should keep constant watch on the PH as well. The process of forming nitrate is acidic, and the water buffer will be slowly gone. As nitrate increases, PH might drop. In my case, the PH of my water suddenly dropped from 8.0 to
5.0, because my water is quite soft with next to no buffer, PH crashed easily. It is important to know that the bacteria’s growth will slow down or even be stalled at too low PH. Partial water change to keep nitrate in check is needed at this stage. You also need to continue to add a few drops of ammonia every day to make sure the source of ammonia never stops. Do not let ammonia drop to 0 for more than a few hours. Keep doing the above until the day your tank is able to digest all the ammonia you add daily, with no trace of both ammonia and nitrite. That is, if you add 2~3ppm OR 5~6ppm ammonia in the morning, by the time you test the water in the evening, both ammonia and nitrite are 0ppm. Then, the fishless cycle is completed! Congratulations! You may now safely add fish after some more partial water changes to keep the nitrate low. Nitrate concentration is generally safe under 40ppm, however, if you want to stay on the safer side, you can keep it under 20ppm since aiming for lower is always better. The advantages of fishless cycle over cycle with fish is quite obvious.
First, you will not risk losing any fish to ammonia poisoning. Second, you have the option to fully stock your tank at once instead of adding fish only a few at a time after you have finishedfishless cycling.
Tips to speed up the fishless cycle The whole fishless cycling process can take up to 6~8 weeks. There are certain tips will speed up the process. 1. Get a jump start by transferring live bacteria from existing colonies. If you can get something from an existing well established fish tank to transfer some bacteria to your tank, you will have a jump start on your fishless cycling. Ask a friend with an established tank for something such as a part of the filter media from his/her filter, or some substrate, or a decoration. However, the best thing is to get a part of the filter media from an established filter, because that is where most bacteria are as was mentioned above. If you do that, make sure to keep the decoration,
substrate, or filter media wet (Use tank water, or treated water, NOT tap water.) the whole time during the transferring process, or the bacteria will die. Note: Old tank water has no use for transferring the bacteria. No need to get that, as it is pointless. It is also important that the old tank you get your bacteria source from must be disease free! 2. Turn up the heat If you have a heater, turn the temperature to the high 80F range. The bacteria growth will speed up in warmer water, thus shorten the time needed for the fishless cycle. 3. More oxygen. If you have the air pump and air stone ready, turn it up! More oxygen will aid the growth of the bacteria. This step is particularly important if you did step 2 to turn up the heat. Warmer water holds less air, so you will need more oxygen in the water in order to speed up the nitrogen cycle. If you are looking for an air pump, I
Petkeepers Monthly . 21
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