abundant land. The explorer Vasco da Gama was made the first Count of Vidigueira in 1519. Bairro Industrial, 7960-305 Vidigueira ,, +351 284 437 240, Adegavidigueira.com.pt. Closed lunchtime 38.2080, -7.7995 Ye 15 RESTAURANTE CAFÉ O BOMBEIRO, CASTRO VERDE This is a restaurant in the fire station but, as these are run voluntarily, they are often the centres of the community. This is a lively restaurant with many tables crammed close, and a welcoming atmosphere. They do excellent lunches with hearty portions of traditional dishes. This is the place to get a basket of the real crusty Alentejana bread. Rua da Seara Nova 4, 7780-163 Castro ,, Verde +351 286 327 168 37.7035, -8.0845 sY
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16 RESTAURANTE O MOINHO, ALMODÔVAR A rustic restaurant, decorated with old farming tools. Wooden chairs and chequered tablecloths. The menu is based on dishes of the day, all regional dishes with homely variations. The grilled Alentejo pork abanicos or secretos, with chips, rice and salad, is a good choice, or try the stewed wild boar. Try the paio sausages to start. Great desserts and local Alentejo wines. Rua do Arco 38B, 7700-055 Almodôvar ,, +351 286 400 156, Restaurantemoinho.pt 37.5118, -8.0595 sYe
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17 RESTAURANTE O BRASILEIRO, MÉRTOLA Despite its name, this restaurant focuses on local produce to cook regional dishes. The menu is seasonal and includes wild asparagus with migas and pork ribs, wild partridge (perdiz açorda) and slow-cooked wild boar stew. For pudding try sopa dourada or the torrão real. The wines are local and excellent. Cerro de São Luís, 7750-296 Mértola ,, +351 286 612 660 37.6432, -7.6581 sYe
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wilder campsites 18 ALQUEVA RURAL CAMPING, PEDROGÃO As the Guadiana river continues its course south after the Alqueva dam, there is this farm with a camping and caravan park. Baby goats gambol under rare Miranda do Douro donkeys. Horses and llamas, black pigs, rabbits, ducks and peacocks all bring a happy energy to this small but vital farm. You can visit just to see the animals or stay the night,
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South Alentejo: Beja
waking up to a cockerel calling dawn across the hills. Don’t forget to visit Solomon’s Throne, a natural seat in some of the giant rocks that litter the farmland. SE of Pedrogão, off the N258. 7960 ,, Pedrogão do Alentejo +351 213 552 070, Dosdin.pt 38.1173, -7.6352 sgh*d 19 CAMPING BARRAGEM MONTE DA ROCHA This is a jolly and basic campsite but it does have amazing sunsets over the reservoir, stunning Elysian views and swimming access to the water. Situated off the N261-4, W of the reservoir. ,, Barragem Monte da Rocha, Ourique +351 962 064 323 37.7173, -8.3021 s1gd
luxury havens 20 MONTE DA CORTE LIGEIRA An exquisite and luxurious guesthouse on an ancient Alentejo farm. Encircled by 250ha with cork oak montados, you can fish in several dams on the estate, hunt, taste the local wines, take a pony ride or a refreshing dip in the pool. 7800-631 Cabeça Gorda, Beja ,, +351 284 947 216 37.9024, -7.8268 esgY 21 HERDADE DOS GROUS A magnificent county estate hotel with olive groves, cork oak forests and vineyards. They make wine, olive oil and keep seven horses for guests. There is very little they don’t do – there is even a lake in the grounds. Take IP2/E802 N from Albernoa; 2km after ,, crossing the river, follow signs L for Turismo Rural. 7800-601 Albernoa, Beja +351 284 960 000, Herdade-dos-grous.com 37.8790, -7.9410 z1sYg 22 MONTE GOIS COUNTRY HOUSE & SPA Hidden in the Serra do Mú is this exquisite retreat. A typical Alentejo house has been renovated with plenty of hammocks, daybeds, a pool, colourful gardens and a spa. They serve glorious breakfasts with fruits, cakes, hams and cheeses, honeys and local breads. This is a zen environment. Come to be in touch with nature. From Almodôvar head S for 13km, turn R ,, just before Fonte Ferrenhas de Cima, follow dirt track keeping L for 3km. Monte Gois 212, 7700 Almodôvar +351 967 064 146, Montegois.com 37.4323, -8.0940 1sg*Ye