Discover the Caribbean
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IN THE ISSUE:
fe a t u re s
ISLAND JOURNEYS 8 Discover the Caribbean’s incredible diversity.
UP FRONT 6 A Napa wine, a speedy sedan, a concert in Cabos and more.
TECH TOYS 44 Innovators redefine the standard with new and notable designs.
FILM REVIEW 48 Natalie Portman goes to the dark side in Black Swan.
THE VINCY EXPERIENCE Bask in the luxury of St.Vincent and the Grenadines.
ISLAND FLAVOURS Savour the taste of paradise.
CARIBBEAN CALENDAR Festivals and events you won’t want to miss.
BULL REVIEW Power and performance drive the Aston Martin DBS.
IMAGE + FASHION Colognes, creams and cleansers made for men.
MOUNTAIN HIGH The best slopes, scenes and screenings in B.C.
WINE + SPIRITS Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro: unapologetically decadent.
ON THE SHELF Hot new fiction to wile away a chilly winter afternoon.
Cover photo by Chris Garrett/GettyImages
Photo Credits on page 50. THE BAY STREET BULL | 3
BAY STREET PUBLISHING
Vol. 7, No. 4
EDITOR Catherine Roberts ART DIRECTOR Mark Tzerelshtein CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Cara Smusiak TRAVEL EDITOR Sean Litteljohn CONTRIBUTORS Ulku Erucar Mike Dojc Marc Phillips COLLINGWOOD REGION, MANAGER Julie Card PHOTOGRAPHER Ruslan Sarkisian DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING SALES Bill Percy firstname.lastname@example.org HOSPITALITY DEVELOPMENT Mark Waxer ADVERTISING GRAPHIC DESIGNER Christophe Boilley COMMUNICATIONS FACILITATOR David Rees
The Bay Street Bull is published six times yearly and distributed in Toronto’s financial and business districts. Distribution method: hand-delivered, inserted, mailed and retail. Editorial + subscription + retail advertising enquiries to 305 Evans Ave., Etobicoke, Ont., M8Z 1K2. email@example.com WWW.THEBAYSTREETBULL.CA
Photo: Ruslan Sarkisian
VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER Fred Sanders
elcome to the Caribbean. Home to more than 30 countries and thousands of islands, islets, reefs and cays, the Caribbean is known for magnificent beaches and constant great weather, making it among the top destinations for leisure and business travel. Each island is a gem in its own right, with unique cultural experiences and adventures just waiting to be enjoyed. Whether you seek diving, sailing, boating, golfing, tennis or deep-sea fishing, the Caribbean has it all. Foodies will also want to check out our shortlist of the region’s most popular markets, which entice locals and tourists with the freshest seafood, tropical fruits and spices. And if you’re looking for professional and organized events, we have a guide to some of the dozens of festivals, regattas and tournaments featured throughout these islands in the months to come. On a very different note, if superb skiing is what you’re seeking in a winter vacation, check out the ski mecca of Western Canada: British Columbia. Among the top ski areas in B.C., the Kootenays in the Rockies— known as the Powder Highway—sees more than 12 metres of snow in a season and offers some of the best skiing anywhere. Travel Editor Sean Litteljohn gives us an intimate view of Retallack, a resort in the heart of the Kootenays that offers some of the best terrain around, including open bowls, glades and tree skiing. Whether you’re looking for groomed trails at a range of skill levels, or want to explore the pristine backcountry with cat-skiing or heli-skiing, it’s all available in this powder paradise. If you’re considering hitting the slopes in Whistler, you’ll want to check out our Wine + Spirits section, which offers a glimpse of the laidback luxury at the Village’s Bearfoot Bistro. Boasting an extensive wine cellar, an exquisite menu from one of Canada’s top chefs, and such delights as sabring demonstrations, cooking classes and a chilly vodka bar, the bistro is a lot more than fine dining—it’s an experience. Just in time for the holidays, Mike Dojc offers up a sampling of the latest gadgets from innovative designers in Tech Toys. There’s Porche’s hybrid super car, a stationary bike that doubles as a beautiful piece of industrial art, a turntable guaranteed to be music to your ears, haute couture headphones and a whole lot more. We always enjoy hearing what you think about the magazine. If you’d like to send us a letter about this issue, or have an idea you think we should explore in the magazine, please address your letter to The Publisher, The Bay Street Bull, 305 Evans Avenue, Etobicoke, Ontario, M8Z 1K2, or e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Fred Sanders, Publisher 4 | THE BAY STREET BULL
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Selling price and payment include freight/PDI, EHF tires and ﬁlters, A/C tax, and OMVIC fee, and exclude taxes. *Selling price is $58,020 on a new 2010 Acura ZDX (Model YB1H2AJN). Price includes $1,895 freight and PDI, EHF tires ($29), EHF ﬁlters ($1), air conditioning tax ($100) and OMVIC fee ($5). License, insurance, registration, and taxes (including HST and tax for fuel conservation, if applicable) are extra. †$12,000 cash incentive is available only on the 2010 Acura ZDX (Model YB1H2AJN) and will be deducted from the negotiated price before taxes and cannot be combined with special lease and ﬁnance offers. License, insurance, registration, and taxes (including HST and tax for fuel conservation, if applicable) are extra. Offer only valid for Ontario residents at Ontario Acura dealers. Retailer may sell for less. Retailer order/trade may be necessary. Vehicle is for illustration purposes only. Offer subject to change without notice. See your Acura retailer for full details.
The Brabus Leave it to Mercedes-Benz to come up with the fastest, most powerful sedan on earth. Based on the twin-turbo, 12-cylinder Mercedes-Benz S600, the new Brabus SV12 R Biturbo 800 packs an enormous 800 horsepower engine and 1,047 lb.-ft. of torque, catapulting it from 0 to 100 in 3.9 seconds, and hitting a top speed of 350 kilometres per hour. To keep the car stable at those insane speeds, the company says they had to limit the torque and use upgraded brakes and bigger wheels and tires. mercedes-benz.com
Sotheby’s Auction New York’s leading auction houses expect to sell more than $1 billion worth of art during this year’s autumn sales. A $30-million untitled Mark Rothko painting, dated 1955 and considered to be one of his most monumental works, will headline Sotheby’s Contemporary Art Sale in November. But the big event will be the sale of Francis Bacon’s Figure in Movement (1985)—a painting that Bacon gave to his personal physician, Dr. Paul Brass— as it marks its first appearance to market. While Andy Warhol’s Coca-Cola (1962) and Dolly Parton (1985, left) are among the most controversial on offer, they’re guaranteed to ignite bidding wars. sothebys.com
Capella Pedregal Capella Pedregal, Los Cabos’ newest luxury hotel, will transform its boutique property into an intimate concert venue on Dec. 11. The lineup includes John Legend, The Roots and Joss Stone, who will perform on a “floating” stage suspended over one of the resort’s pools, affording an almost-360degree view of the bands. The best way to secure a seat is to book one of the hotel packages, which start at $1,100 per night per room (based on double occupancy) for a three-night stay, and includes two concerts tickets. capellacabo.com
Behind the Wheel
In Behind The Wheel, veteran French journalist Robert Puyal presents portraits of 80 automotive aficionados whose passion for speed, design and engineering have shaped the car industry. Organized by decade, the book begins with pioneers such as Louis Renault, Jean Bugatti and Henry Ford—who broke the 100-mile-per-hour barrier in 1904 with his 19-litre, four-cylinder Ford 999. It also features Juan Manuel Fangio, an Argentine mechanic who started out competing in dangerous amateur road races before being discovered and sent to Europe, where he won five Formula 1 world championships. Hollywood icons such as Steve McQueen, James Dean and Paul Newman are expected, but contemporary car lovers such as Horacio Pagani, who designs his own supercars, famed Ferrari collector Nick Mason of Pink Floyd, and director Quentin Tarantino, who gives muscle cars so much screen time, are nice inclusions. flammarion.com
6 | THE BAY STREET BULL
Legendary for its critically acclaimed estate wines, Far Niente was founded in 1885 by John Benson, an original fortyniner of the California gold rush and uncle of artist Winslow Homer. Named the after the Italian phrase “Dolce Far Niente,” meaning “sweet to do nothing,” Far Niente was one of the first gravityflow wineries in Napa Valley region. (Gravity-flow wineries use multiple levels in the winery to move must and wine without pumping.) The winery prospered until Prohibition took hold in 1919, and it didn’t reopen until 1982, after it was purchased and renovated by Oklahoman Gil Nickel. A physicist with a background in agriculture, Nickel set out to create a roster of award-wining wines. A favourite Far Niente vintage is the 2007 Chardonnay. Considered a classic, this is a full-bodied, intense, elegant wine, offers up lemon blossom and poached-pear aromas, a long fruity finish and has a light gold colour. Best enjoyed now through 2012. farniente.com
Life didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t begin in Barbados; it was just perfected here. From a day on the golf course to a night on the town, let us teach you how to master the art of ďŹ ne living at VisitBarbados.org
Journeys Discover the culture and charm of the Caribbean BY MARC PHILLIPS
8 | THE BAY STREET BULL
unshine, adventure, history and luxury—the Caribbean has it all. Despite the obvious similarities between the more than 7,000 islands that make up the Caribbean (location, history and language come to mind) there are distinct differences in the way that each has fused colonial European culture with African and indigenous cultures. Each country has developed its own identity, and the region has built an economy on sharing the diverse cultures and environs with the world. For winter-weary Canadians, the greatest appeal of the islands is its beaches. While it’s almost impossible to go wrong when choosing among the area’s many sun-and-sand destinations, there are a few things to consider. The eastern shores of most islands are battered by the Atlantic Ocean, resulting in a rugged coastline and huge waves—a surfer’s dream. But the leeward coasts, favoured by swimmers, divers and snorkellers are touched by the calm Caribbean Sea. Seven Mile Beach in Negril, Jamaica, for instance, has been popular since the 1960s when it was discovered by hippies. While Barbuda’s Pink Beach is a 13-kilometre strip of pink sand located in an
isolated part of the island. Golden sand and calm waters can be found on Luquillo in Puerto Rico. Certified as a Blue Flag Beach, it adheres to strict environmental standards, guarantees good water quality and provides facilities to disabled travellers. Those interested in hiking will find well-kept, paved trails at nearly all the national parks and reserves. For a spectacular trek, try the six-hour hike to Blue Mountain Peak in Jamaica. Covering 45 km and reaching 2,256 metres, this mountain range offers some the best hiking, not only on the island, but in the entire Caribbean. For those looking to fit a few rounds of golf into the itinerary, there are plenty of quality courses to choose form. While golf has been popular on the islands for more than 100 years, the year-round sunshine and a new hybrid grass (which eliminated the difficulty of maintaining greens in the tropics) have fuelled the recent rise in the number of new golf courses. Vacation packages are widely available, and larger islands have a selection of celebrity-designed fairways. The best greens have panoramic views of the sea and natural water hazards such as creeks, streams and gullies. Some notable mentions are Sandy Lane in Barbados, Tryall Club in Jamaica and Tierra del Sol in Aruba.
Located between the windy Atlantic Ocean and the mild Caribbean Sea, and featuring a rugged coastline and deep bays, Antigua is a yachter’s paradise. Its centuries-long sailing history can be traced back to the colonial era, when it was the centre of British marine power in the region. The annual Antigua Sailing Week, in spring, is considered one of the world’s top five regattas. For five days, sailors from around the world and boats of every kind come to test their skills. Ondeck Ocean Racing, a local Antiguan company, is offering a large roster of bareboat and charter fleets for this year’s races. Ondeck also offers individuals a chance to become a member of a crew for a day on a Beneteau 40.7 or a Farr 40 yacht. Several resorts have learn-to-sail programs, such as the RYA Start Sailing Course from Sunsail Club Colonna. The British and U.S. Virgin Islands both have well-developed marine facilities, while the Grenadines, known for its quiet charm, has superb sailing conditions. The Tobago Cays, a collection of tiny isles surround by coral reefs, is a popular day-trip destination from other Grenadine islands. THE BAY STREET BULL | 9
s r e h t O
i l s
Tourism in the region depends largely on resort-based vacations, but visitors will be rewarded by venturing out on their own to explore the region’s national parks, reserves and wildlife centres. Covered by rainforest, the ASA Wright Nature Centre in Trinidad provides a habitat to a host of endemic and exotic birds such as the white-bearded manakin and at least 13 species of humming birds. In the Dominican Republic, Lago Enriquillo, the Caribbean’s largest lake, has a population of about 5,000 American crocodiles, which can be spotted basking in the mudbanks on the isle of Cabritos. While nature is front and centre in the Caribbean, each island’s architecture is a lesson in its history. The architectural legacy of the Dutch, English and French and be found in the plantation homes and in simple urban dwellings on many islands. Pre-Columbian architecture, however, is limited to ceremonial plazas and best seen in Puerto Rico. Enclosed by walls, Old San Juan has more than 800 historic buildings. Founded in 1521, Old San Juan has been restored with beautiful 17th- and 18th-century pastel-painted buildings lining narrow, cobblestone roads. During their rule, the Spanish built massive fortresses, churches and houses throughout the Caribbean. Recently, there have been major changes in the cityscapes of island countries as contemporary architecture has taken root. But no country has the amalgam of architectural styles as Cuba. There are the Neo Mudéjar-style palaces of 19th-century, the 1920s Art Deco style found in many interiors, and the colonial atmosphere of the Baroque and Neoclassical buildings that surround the Plaza de Armas—the perfect spot for relaxing at a café. Wherever you travel in the Caribbean, one thing is for certain: there’s plenty of opportunity to explore the culture and characteristics that make these islands so special.
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THE VINCY Experience White sand, blue water and cobblestone roads BY ULKU ERUCAR
collection of 32 islands and cays in the secluded Southern Caribbean, St. Vincent and the Grenadines boasts the best of what the authentic Caribbean is renowned for. Nature provides pristine white and black sand beaches, tranquil waters for exceptional diving, sailing and snorkelling, and verdant topography perfect for soft adventure activities. Then there are the private island retreats for destination weddings and honeymoons, historic sites that unveil a colourful culture, and vibrant carnivals and regattas to round out the experience. The Grenadines stretch for 72 kilometres south from St. Vincent and include eight inhabited islands: Young Island, Bequia, Union, Mayreau, Mustique, Canouan, Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent. Tobago Cays is a horseshoeshaped reef that shields five deserted islets and is renowned as a sailing and snorkelling Mecca. Wherever you decide to go, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no shortage of luxury on these islands.
12 | THE BAY STREET BULL
Buccament Bay Resort is due to open in January 2011 and set to redefine tourism on the island, creating massive sustainability and growth into the economy and its community. The resort will be managed and maintained to the highest standard by a five-star hotel management team, Harlequin Hotels & Resorts. Built to the highest specification and providing state-of-the-art facilities, the resort will also offer The Harlequin Sports Academy, which will include the Liverpool Football Club Soccer School, Pat Cash Tennis Academy,
Harlequin Fitness Centre and Diving & Water Sports Centre. The Alaia Spa, created and operated by ESPA, and the Little Harlequins Kids Club are also available. Several bars and restaurants will offer guests a choice of cuisine ranging from fine dining to casual eating. Soon to come is the world-famous Trader Vic’s and the Harlequin Performing Arts Academy. Located only a three-minute water taxi ride from St. Vincent, Young Island Resort features 29 beachfront and hillside cottages, each with a private terrace overlooking the pristine ocean, dotted throughout its 14 hectares of lush land. Couples can celebrate their new beginnings by relaxing on the white sand beach or in a hammock, or by embracing adventure with a sailing or diving trip. Following a sunsoaked day, the on-site, hillside Spa Kalina is the perfect place to refresh and rejuvenate before dinner. Couples can dine in the privacy of their cottage or opt for a beachfront, thatched kiosk. Locally grown fruits and vegetables are in abundance, as well as the catch of the day, poultry and meats. Each meal also comes with the resort’s secret recipe: your choice of six types of bread—white, coconut, banana, raisin, cinnamon and wheat. THE BAY STREET BULL | 13
Firefly Plantation Bequia was previously known as Spring On Bequia but re-opened in November 2008 under the new name. Set within a 225-year-old working, organic plantation with spectacular views of the ocean and bay below, the grounds encompass nearly 12 hectares of lush coconut groves and banana and fruit orchards, and the restaurant is considered one of the best on the island. Menus reflect what is in season and ripe that day, fish is locally caught by traditional practices (endangered species are kept off the menu), and even the house wine is organic. Bequia Beach Hotel is Bequia’s largest boutique hotel, featuring 12 suites, 11 classic rooms and six villas. Beachfront suites are scheduled to open at the end of 2010. The hotel now also boasts an on-site spa and a gym. Best known for being completely unplugged, Petit St. Vincent promises total privacy and barely a trace of the world from which guests escaped—no televisions, phones, casinos, not even room keys. With only 22 cottages spread over 45 hectares and a ratio of two staff for every guest, your every need is met with a wave of a flag—literally. Hoist a red flag, and you will not be disturbed. Hoist a yellow flag, and a staff member will soon be at your service. Cottages were made with natural stone found on the island, terra cotta floors and peaked hardwood ceilings. The natural colors and materials were chosen to blend with the surroundings. The comfortable, airy cottages are naturally airconditioned with the ever-present ocean breeze and a little help from ceiling fans and louvered windows. Each cottage has a living room, wooden sundeck, separate bedroom, bathroom and dressing room. Just a 10-minute boat ride from Union Island, Palm Island Resort is a 54-hectare private island escape that is famous for its white sand beaches that stretch the entire length on the western coastline. The resort boasts 43 guest rooms, including 24 beachfront stone cottages that are dwarfed by the coconut palms and charmingly styled with their island setting in mind. Of special note are the Island Lofts, which sit above the water on 1.5-metre stilts. Newlyweds can can enjoy Euro-Caribbean cuisine with freshly caught seafood and locally grown vegetables. Nature-lovers can take in the panoramic walking trails where indigenous iguanas and interesting birdlife abound, while water-lovers can enjoy windsurfing, snorkelling, kayaking and Hobie-style catamarans. Cotton House Resort in Mustique is a contemporary property, elegantly set on five hectares of tropical gardens. Completely refurbished in 2004, all 19 accommodations with individual characteristics are gracefully decorated. Guests can enjoy an array of activities, from horseback riding to sailing.
La Soufriere Volcano: Over 1,234 metres high, this active volcano dominates the northern end of St. Vincent and offers an excellent full-day hike. While a tour can be selfguided, a guide is recommended, particularly for those planning to descend into the crater. The trek is a little over 11 kilometres (half of which is uphill) and is best suited to individuals who can enjoy the physical rigors of such a hike. Darkview Falls: Located in St. Vincent, this is one of the more accessible waterfalls, and it’s a magical site set within bamboo groves, its own bamboo bridge and swimming hole. 14 | THE BAY STREET BULL
Diving: The diverse underwater world of St. Vincent and the Grenadines offers something for divers of all levels, from the resort-course graduate anxious to get up-close-and-personal with marine critters, to the experienced diver aspiring for his or her next photographic trophy. Divers will enjoy a wide range of sites—including wall, reef, wreck and “muck” dives—and can take their pick from a selection of dive operators offering numerous options for exploring the region’s underwater treasures. Sailing: Plot your course through tranquil atolls sprinkled across nearly 65 kilometres of turquoise water, exploring islets populated by palms, seabirds and turtles. St. Vincent and the Grenadines is an idyllic locale for sailing enthusiasts, from seasoned salty dogs to amateur sailors eager to tack to the wind. Drop anchor at a remote sandbar for a picnic lunch, or moor at one of nine inhabited islands. Hiking: The main island of St. Vincent offers a myriad of land-based adventure options. Outdoor enthusiasts might quest for a rare glimpse of the Vincy parrot at Vermont Nature Trails, hike to the 12-metre Trinity Falls deep in the Vincentian jungle, or climb the imposing La Soufrière volcano. Weddings and Honeymoons: St. Vincent and the Grenadines is an escapist’s haven for destination weddings and castaway honeymoons. From exclusive private-island resorts to villas to boutique properties, couples can choose the perfect hideaway of their dreams, complete with romantic seclusion and opulent pampering.
Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary: Located in Bequia, the largest of St. Vincent and the Grenadines’ islands, former seaman Orton King helps save endangered hawksbill turtles from extinction. His project involves monitoring beaches and nests, protecting mother turtles and eggs from poachers, and housing hatchlings in the sanctuary during the vulnerable years of life. Witness first-hand the importance of caring for wildlife, and play with King’s 13-year-old pet turtle, Busybody, who begs for a little scratch with a flap of a fin. Trinity Falls: Further up the leeward coast of St. Vincent, with its secluded coves, fishing villages and spectacular backdrops of high mountains and gentle streams, another natural wonder awaits. An hour’s hike through lush rainforest fauna leads to Trinity Falls, a 12-metre waterfall that descends via three cascades into a circular pool, then drops another three metres into a second pool that’s perfect for swimming. Finding the Elusive St. Vincent Parrot: In the early morning (the best time of day for bird watching), trek just under five kilometres inland from Kingstown, St. Vincent, to the start of the Vermont Nature Trails. On arrival, join the Parrot Lookout Trail that passes through the St. Vincent Parrot Reserve. The reserve was established in 1987 to protect the endangered St. Vincent parrot, of which there are only about 500 left in the wild. The hike takes approximately two hours and offers an opportunity to see the rare whistling warbler, brightly colored hooded tanagers and hummingbirds. Botanical Gardens: Visit the famous and oldest botanical gardens in the Western Hemisphere. The gardens, located to the north of Kingstown, were founded in 1762 as a commercial breeding ground for plants brought from other parts of the world. THE BAY STREET BULL | 15
ISLAND s r u o v a l F T
he Caribbean owes much of its varied cuisine to the diverse groups of people who settled there and combined the ingredients they found with those they brought. Each island’s cuisine differs according to its ethnic mix. The French bought pastries, rich sauces and frog’s legs. The British influence, particularly strong in Barbados, is found in hearty dishes, such as pudding and souse. Yet despite their differences, they have much in common, including seafood, stews and fruits. Colourful, bustling markets are a great place to see and taste local dishes. Here are a few of the best markets to visit. PUBLIC MARKET (ANTIGUA): The most colorful sight of St. John’s is the Saturday morning market, when many people come into the capital to hawk everything from birds and luscious fruits to beautiful flowers and handicrafts. The sights, sounds and smells of Antigua are at their photographic best here from 8 a.m. to noon. The public market is located in the southern end of St. John’s on Market Street where it intersects with All Saints and Valley roads.
The Caribbean you’re From the lush greenery of St.Vincent to the beautiful white sands of the Grenadines, our unspoilt islands are the Caribbean you’re looking for. For more information, please visit www.discoversvg.com or call 416-630-9292.
S t . V i n c e n t , Yo u n g I s l a n d , B e q u i a , M u s t i q u e , C a n o u a n , M a y r e a u ,
OISTINS (BARBADOS): Oistins is the country’s main fishing port, and it’s home to a busy market. Visitors can watch boats unloading their haul at the end of the day. Every Friday, visitors can also join hundreds of Bajans who flock to Oistins for the Fish-Fry, an opportunity to taste the very best fried and grilled fish, fish cakes, sweet potatoes and macaroni pie. There are numerous vendors to choose from, lots of ample seating and great music to enjoy. SPICE MARKET (MARTINIQUE): There are three main markets in Fort de France—the Vegetable market, the Fish Market and the Big Market. Both the Vegetable Market and the Fish Market are exciting places to visit even if you’re not looking for food, for they both offer insight into the local culture and cuisine. The Big Market, however, is the most popular of all Martinique markets; it is located in the downtown area and is also known as the Spice Market. Under a canopy of gleaming glass and metal, visitors find a huge array of spice stalls offering everything from peppers to vanilla and even a medley of rums. All around the outside, fresh fruits and vegetables are sold as well. All three of the Martinique markets are open daily from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. CASTRIES (ST. LUCIA): A variety of unique shopping experiences can be found in and around St. Lucia’s capital, Castries. The 100-year-old Castries Market is a must-see for visitors to the island. There you’ll find local vendors selling crafts, spices and local foods, as well as fishermen unloading their daily catch.
To b a g o C a y s , U n i o n I s l a n d , P a l m I s l a n d a n d P e t i t S t . V i n c e n t
Photo Credit: www.insandoutsofsvg.com
r a d n e l a C Events and festivals of the Islands
18 | THE BAY STREET BULL
arnival is the most famous of all Caribbean celebrations. This elaborate spectacle, found on almost every island, began with African slaves who parodied their masters’ pre-Lenten masquerade balls. Some carnivals are traditionally held before Lent, while others take place in July (Cuba), August (Grenada) and December (Montserrat). The most elaborate of all Caribbean carnivals is, however, in Trinidad. Beginning two days before Ash Wednesday, Trinidad’s exuberant festival blends music, costumes, parades and massive parties—and it has spawned similar festivals around the globe. Each year on Carnival Monday, festivities begin under a cloak of darkness at 4 a.m. Fuelled by the energetic rhythms of soca, revellers take to the streets for the pre-dawn party of J’Ouvert. This opening day ritual is a celebration of the darker elements of human nature, where inhibitions are abandoned. Bathed in chocolate, mud, oil and paint, revellers depict devils, demons, monsters and imps. The best place to witness this nocturnal event is in the isolated mountain village of Paramin, just north of the capital city, Port-of-Spain. Once a year, Paramin sheds its rural languor and erupts into an inferno of blue-painted ‘jab jabs,’ or devils, who dance and demand money from onlookers.
Caribbean Event Calendar • DECEMBER 2010 The Martinique Jazz Festival (Nov. 27 - Dec. 5) is the Caribbean’s longest-running jazz festival. Among the international artists scheduled to perform are Gilles Rosine and Bwakoré from Martinique, Danny Sánchez of Puerto Rico, Guadeloupe’s Christian Laviso Trio with guest David Murray from the U.S., Cuba's Harold López-Nussa and Haiti’s Mushy Widmaier. Dec. 1st - 5th Bahamas International Film Festival Dec. 3rd - 5th Run Barbados: 5k, 10k, half-Marathon and Marathon events Dec. 17th – Jan. 3rd St. Kitts Carnival
• JANUARY 2011 The New Year’s Sailing Regatta in Bahamas (Jan. 1st - 2nd) begins off the coast of Nassau’s Montagu Bay. Some 30 to 40 ships compete in three classes. The event is a spectacle for visitors, and is followed with great enthusiasm by the residents.
Come daytime, the J’Ouvert partiers have been replaced with massive costumed bands that flood the streets with riotous colours. As thousands take to the streets to “jump up,” the sound of soca, blaring from speakers piled high on trucks, is heard everywhere. The excitement is at a fever pitch, but Carnival Monday is only a warm-up for Carnival Tuesday, which begins at 8 a.m. Today, musical competitions make up a large part of the carnival—and groups and individuals compete to win. Calypso Monarch is one of the island’s greatest honours, and along with the title comes an enormous trophy and about $83,000. Last year’s winner, Kurt Allen, won with his provocative tune, “Too Bright,” beating out eight-time winner and favourite, Chalkdust. Carnival bands compete as well. Assembled mostly by teams of volunteers, the bands are accompanied by groups of dancers as they make their way through the streets. Each band is led by a King and Queen who wear extremely large and elaborate costumes that often require extensions and wheels to assist the masqueraders as they make their way through the streets. Each year on Dimanche Gras (Carnival Sunday), a competition is held to award the titles of Carnival
Jan. 10th - 16th Barbados Annual Jazz Festival Jan. 16th - 19th San Sebastian Street Festival (San Juan)
• FEBRUARY 2011 For the five days leading up to Ash Wednesday, all cars are banished from the centre or Portof-Spain in Trinidad for Carnival (Feb. 15th 16th). Trinidad hosts the biggest and best carnival in the Caribbean, with exciting street parties and celebrations. Jan. 31st – Mar. 5th Aruba Caribbean Carnival Feb. 10th - 20th Havana International Book Fair (Cuba) Feb. 15th - 16th Dominica and Martinique Carnivals
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Caribbean Event Calendar • MARCH 2011 At the exclusive Royal Westmoreland resort in Barbados lies a championship golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. The annual Royal Westmoreland Corporate Cup (Mar. 20th - 27th) is a popular tournament that is open to a maximum of 20 teams of four players. It’s a great opportunity for businesses to entertain clients and to build relationships. Mar. 12th - 14th Grenada Easter Regatta Mar. 13th - 20th Montserrat St. Patrick’s Celebration Mar. 18th - 24th Bermuda International Film Festival Mar. 25th - 28th Moonsplash Music Festival (Anguilla)
• APRIL 2011 Heading into its 16th season, the St. Barth Film Festival (Apr. 12th - 17th) showcases the talent and diversity of Caribbean cinema, as well as a selection of international films that touch on Caribbean culture. Visitors can even catch a screening on the beach. Apr. 12th - May 2nd U.S. Virgin Islands Carnival Apr. 15th - May 3rd St. Martin/St. Maarten Carnival Apr. 24th – Apr. 30th Antigua Sailing Week
• MAY 2011 Held at Pigeon Island, the St. Lucia Jazz Festival (Apr. 30th - May 8th) is one of the top five jazz festivals in the world. This year will be extra special as it celebrates its 20th year. May 26th - 30th Aruba Soul Beach Music Festival
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King and Queen. Not to belittle the talents of the calypso and soca singers, but it is in these magnificent designs where the true creativity of carnival is found. And after such splendid display, who could fault the judges for naming Rosemarie Kuru Jagessar and Curtis Eustace last year’s queen and king. Festival or no festival, music is everywhere in the Caribbean, pouring out of bars, buses and rum shops. And like the islands themselves, the musical genres found throughout the Caribbean varies. The lilting tunes of calypso lyrics may sound a bit laid-back in comparison to those pulsing beats, but they uncover a biting social commentary, humour and some very mischievous double entendres. Reggae, also heavy on social commentary, evolved from a slowing of the ska beat in the 1970s, and its best-known exponent, Bob Marley, gained international fame with a string of albums he recorded with his band, Bob Marley and the Wailers. While everyone can hum along to a Bob Marley classic, the lesser-known styles such as zouk or merengue are as much apart of the fabric of the islands as reggae. Zouk is the music of the French islands, particularly Martinique and Guadeloupe, that became popular in the mid-1980s. Soca, which originated in Trinidad and Tobago in the 1970s, is a faster syncopated version of calypso, and it has replaced calypso at most Caribbean carnivals. The late Ras Shorty I was a soca pioneer. Steel Pan, said to be the only ‘new instrument of the 20th century,’ was invented in Trinidad by using the top panels of crude oil barrels that were shaped to form notes. Played by musicians known as pannists, steel pan has a unique metallic sound. Merengue hails from the Dominican Republic and is as much as a dance style and a musical genre. Fast and lively, its Latin-style, two-step beat is easy to learn and fun. While reggae crooners have been eclipsed by the faster dancehall music much loved by the young, the rich and multi-layered musical tradition of the islands is alive and pumping, and carnival is perhaps the best time to enjoy it.
Swaying Palms, Invigorating Adventures and Heartwarming Smiles
Blend lazy relaxation with island excitement Here in Antigua and Barbuda, we’re famous for hundreds of pink and white silky sand beaches. Find your own private cove for two or a lively spot for family fun. But our islands offer more than just sand and surf! Explore bustling city streets filled with welcoming faces. Enjoy galleries and museums, exotic dining, sporting activities and bird watching. Relax in your favourite style of accommodation – whether a quaint B&B, boutique hotel, all-inclusive resort or luxury villa. A customized vacation experience awaits you – just a 4 1/2-hour non-stop flight from Toronto. For insider info on island highlights and things to do, simply contact us: Antigua and Barbuda Tourism Office 60 St. Clair Avenue East, Suite 601 Toronto, Ontario M4T 1N5 416-961-3085 email@example.com www.antigua-barbuda.ca
ASTON MARTIN DBS Power & Performance In a world where innovation is often hampered by compromise, sports cars that marry performance with elegance are few and far between. So when, after a 34-year hiatus, the Aston Martin DBS made its film debut in the 2006 James Bond movie, Casino Royale, car lovers were thrilled. Nicknamed Casino Ice for its grey colour, the heart of the DBS is its hand-built, V12, 6.0-litre engine that can produce 510 horsepower of breathtaking energy. Like all truly great racecars, DBS is lightweight and well balanced. To produce its light, rigid structure, DBS uses an all-alloy VH (Vertical Horizontal) architecture. Since 85 percent of the car’s weight is positioned within its wheelbase, the engine has been mounted in the mid-front, while the transaxle has been placed in the mid-rear to ensure a near-perfect weight distribution. Crafted from aluminum and carbon fibre, every surface, curve and line has a function. From the deep spoilers and flared wheel arches to the vents and scoops, athleticism reigns. Celebrating the enormous success of the DBS, a new special edition comes in Carbon Black. The bespoke metallic black paint, according to Aston Martin, is “especially formulated with a subtle metallic twist to create a deep, rich patina,” and requires 50 man-hours of hand-painting to apply. Everything that can’t be painted black—carpeting, upholstery and the headliner—is Obsidian Black, save for the silver grille mesh and silver seat stitching. Even those gorgeous, 10-spoke, diamondturned, 20-inch wheels are black. — MARC PHILLIPS
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Weight: 1,695 kg Fuel Capacity: 78 litres Maximum Power: 510 hp at 6,500 rpm Maximum Speed: 302 km/h Acceleration 0-100: 4.3 seconds
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MANLY Things Cologne, creams and cleansers for men
BLEU de CHANEL Provocative and sensual, Bleu de Chanel blends citrus and woods with spicy pink pepper, ginger and frankincense to create a fresh, clean fragrance that is purely masculine, yet still subtle. As intriguing as the man who wears it.
LAB SERIES Body wash and skin creams aren’t just for the ladies. Lab Series products are packed with electrolytes to hydrate and repair men’s thicker skin— just what every Canuck needs to make it through a cold, Canadian winter. FIGUIER Scent is a powerful thing, and this candle heightens the senses. Paying homage to the fig tree, Diptyque’s Figuier Verte combines warm woody notes with cool leafy freshness.
TRUEFITT & HILL Noted for a distinct layering of scents, Truefitt & Hill’s 1805 Cologne and Aftershave Balm are fresh, clean and masculine. Top notes bergamot, mandarin and cardamom flirt with lavender, geranium and sage, and rest on a sandalwood, cedar and musk base. KIEHL’S FACIAL FUEL Give your face a lift with Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Healthy Bronze, an energizing moisturizer that awakens dull, fatigued skin with a subtle glow. The vitamin-enriched formula includes gingko bilboa extract to help naturally boost radiance. 24 | THE BAY STREET BULL
ART of SHAVING Travelling light doesn’t have to mean foregoing a perfect shave. Art of Shaving’s Carry-On Kit packs the essentials in sizes that will keep border agents from confiscating your luxe goods on your next flight.
Powder—it’s every skier’s and snowboarder’s dream, and British Columbia sees as much as 13 metres of the premium white stuff every winter. Combining luxury resorts, fantastic ski trails, more cat- and heli-skiing operations than anywhere else in the world, and a vibrant après-ski scene, B.C. is a true winter wonderland. >>
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RETALLACK THE JEWEL OF THE KOOTENAYS BY SEAN LITTELJOHN ptimistic prospectors flocked to the Kootenays in the late-19th century, lured by one of the largest silver booms in history. But the promise of riches slipped away with the last of the silver, and towns such as Retallack turned to dust, leaving nothing but ghosts. Years later, a band of brothers set out to mine the precious commodity above ground and, in the process, brought Retallack back to life, this time as a ski resort bearing the same name, complete with a main lodge that sits on the exact spot of the former ghost town. Retallack Lodge is what serious skiers and snowboarders dream about at night. Imagine a place where up to 2.4 metres of champagne powder can fall over the course of 72 hours, where clients have private access to 3,800 hectares of incredible terrain—open bowls, glades, tree skiing and some of the steepest and deepest skiing in the world. Bountiful, quality snow is what helps set Retallack apart from the pack. The property sits smack dab in the middle between the Kootenay and Slocan Lake weather systems, providing a minimum of 12 metres of virgin powder each season. “This is the most consistent snow on earth. It’s no coincidence that there are 22 cat- or heli-skiing operations in a three-hour radius from here,” says general manager and owner Phil Pinfold. While Retallack prefers their guests be advanced skiers and boarders, it’s an excellent place to hone your skills and advance to a higher level in an atmosphere of safety. “Skier safety is paramount, we go above and beyond what is expected of us,” says Pinfold. To ensure tight standards are
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Pinfold’s Pursuit How does a North Toronto boy working with the Bay Street crowd end up throwing it all away for a bunch of white powder? Simple: he gets to do what he loves—ski. Phil Pinfold has taken everything he learned in the Toronto rat race and applied it to running a very successful snowcat operation in the Kootenay Mountains. From an early age, Phil was an avid snowboarder, shredding hills at the Caledon Ski Club with his get-out-of-my-way riding style, and even competing at the national level in snowboard racing. So it shouldn’t have been a surprise when Phil left his job as a junior ad exec at Downtown Partners and decided to pursue a degree in Resort Management at Selkirk
College in Nelson, B.C. His friends shook their heads, but that never stopped Phil—he has always been his own person. Eight years later, at the age of 33, he is now general manager and co-owner of Retallack, where he gets to ski and ride daily. He’s had the thrill of turning the once-obscure cat-skiing operation into one of the hottest ski destinations in the world. The fiery Scotsman is at ease with Bay Streeters and skibums alike, and he makes quite an impression with his thick lumberjack’s mustache and rugby-player build. But don’t take my word for it. Half the fun of Retallack is the feeling of brotherhood and appreciation for ski and snowboard culture and just hanging out with the people who make this their livelihood. Buy Phil a beer and listen as his stories unravel—you won’t regret it. 28 | THE BAY STREET BULL
maintained, Retallack employs guides and leaves nothing to chance. “We study advanced snow science, routinely check our gear and machines and give our clients industry-leading safety briefings,” says Pinfold, himself an accomplished backcountry skier and former semi-pro snowboarder. While safety in the mountain is never taken lightly, this is balanced by the funloving and relaxed attitude back at the lodge. “We offer a really legitimate backcountry experience and relaxed vibe,” Pinfold explains. “We get a lot of former ski bums who used to hang out in the Sierras back in the 1970s. Now that they are successful businessmen and women, they want that same care-free feeling but with luxury accommodation, five-star meals and an on-site masseuse.” Former ski bums and top pros have also become investors and part owners in the successful operation. In 2007, Seth Morrison and Tanner Hall joined the Retallack family. Morrison hails from Colorado and has won the prestigious Powder Magazine Awards Readers Poll three times, while Tanner,
a native of Montana, has established himself as one of the greatest skiers of his generation, holding the title of most medals won at the ESPN Winter X Games. Both can be seen dominating the Retallack terrain in the 2007 ski film, Believe. The resort also plays host to some serious competitions. In 2010 Retallack hosted the Red Bull “Cold Rush” event, a one-of-a-kind, peer-judged competition that featured 16 of the world’s best athletes in three categories—big mountain, jumps and pillow lines—in an attempt to find the “Best Freeskier in the World.” It’s also not uncommon to find filming, photo shoots for magazines and ads, or extensive product testing at Retallack. Some of the companies involved with the resort include, Orage, which has developed a jacket built to withstand hardcore tree-skiing and retain warmth for extended sessions, as well as Oakley, Atomic, K2 and Armada (co-founded by Tanner Hall). Retallack is one of the greenest operations in the backcountry skiing and boarding industry—not to mention
among the most eco-friendly accommodations available anywhere in Canada. It was the first cat- or heli-skiing operation to be awarded four green keys from the Hotel Association of Canada’s Green Key Eco-Rating program, meaning it’s been judged a national industry leader committed to protecting the environment. And as a member of Helicat Canada, the resort adheres to stringent environmental and wildlife standards. Premium powder is the focal point, but Retallack also has a slew of first-class amenities. There’s a hot tub, sauna, a fully licensed bar, gourmet meals and après-ski massage therapy. If you need to finish a last minute proposal or tweak a document while you’re there, a fully functioning media centre has everything you’ll need, and Wi-Fi is available throughout the lodge. Even the snow-cats are deluxe; you can’t help feeling excited as you sit in their plush racing seats while enjoying the full audio and video capabilities and watching your favorite ski or snowboard movie or listening to music to get you pumped-up en route to the powder.
When you’re ready to “drop-in,” you’ll be accompanied by highly trained guides (two for every 12 skiers) who can also provide ski tips and individual attention, if desired. As if that wasn’t enough, on the way to the next run, your gear is getting warm and toasty, courtesy of the high-powered on-board drying system. Back at the lodge, you can recount your day, view video footage and “put back a few beers” with Pinfold and the guides, or listen to the “snow-poetry” of snow-cat driver and legend, “Karl the Gnarl,” one of the most enthusiastic and fun-loving employees ever. The stories are legendary—and envy inducing. “It had snowed eight feet of virgin Kootenay powder in three days,” Pinfold tells me. “It was kind of like the movie The Shining, where everybody was trapped in the lodge. Luckily, instead of going crazy, we just rode unlimited powder for two days straight. It was just pro-skier Seth Morrison, a crew from Oakley and one very happy cat full of clients.” It just doesn’t get any better than that.
Summer at Retallack During the summer months, Retallack is once again at the forefront of the outdoor recreation industry and will be offering mountain biking next summer. The trail system, designed by mountain biking icons Riley McIntosh and Paddy Kaye, who are best known for their extensive work with The Red Bull Rampage Tour, will offer more than 1,800 metres of descents through the Selkirk wilderness, accessed by comfortable 4x4 vans. Mountain biking is a popular crossover sport for avid skiers and snowboarders, so it makes perfect sense that Retallack would be the first backcountry ski resort to offer this service. “We are always pushing to offer our clients new and exciting avenues to experience mountain culture,” says general manager and owner, Phil Pinfold. The lodge will be open in 2011 from July 1 to late October, with a true mountain biking experience running $500 per day. THE BAY STREET BULL | 29
Photo by Henry Georgi
Island Lake Catskiing ŚĂƐ ďĞĞŶ ƉƌŽǀŝĚŝŶŐ ĞǆĐĞƉƟŽŶĂů ďĂĐŬĐŽƵŶƚƌǇ ƐŬŝ ĞǆƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞƐ ĨŽƌ ŽǀĞƌ ϮϬ ǇĞĂƌƐ͘ dŚĞ ŵĂŐŶŝĮĐĞŶƚ ƉĞĂŬƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ZŽĐŬǇ DŽƵŶƚĂŝŶƐ ƚŽǁĞƌ ŽǀĞƌ ϳ͕ϬϬϬ ĂĐƌĞƐ ŽĨ ďŽǁůƐ͕ ǀĂůůĞǇƐ ĂŶĚ ŐůĂĚĞĚ ƚƌĞĞƐ͘ dŚĞ ůƵǆƵƌŝŽƵƐ ůŽĚŐĞƐ͕ ĮŶĞ ĚŝŶŝŶŐ͕ ϯ͕ϬϬϬ ďŽƩůĞ ǁŝŶĞ ůŝďƌĂƌǇ ĂŶĚ ĨƵůů ƐƉĂ ƉƵƚ /ƐůĂŶĚ >ĂŬĞ ŝŶ Ă ůĞĂŐƵĞ ŽĨ ŝƚƐ ŽǁŶ͘ /ƚ͛Ɛ ƟŵĞ ǇŽƵ ĞǆƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞĚ ƚŚĞ ůĞŐĞŶĚ͘ >ŽĐĂƚĞĚ ϯ ŚŽƵƌƐ ĨƌŽŵ ĂůŐĂƌǇ ŶĞĂƌ &ĞƌŶŝĞ ͘ ͘
ǁǁǁ͘ŝƐůĂŶĚůĂŬĞĐĂƚƐŬŝŝŶŐ͘ĐŽŵ dŽůů &ƌĞĞ͗ ϭͲϴϴϴͲϰϮϮͲϴϳϱϰ
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POWDER DISCOVER B.C.’S BEST SKI DESTINATIONS BY SEAN LITTELJOHN
1. REVELSTOKE MOUNTAIN RESORT, REVELSTOKE, B.C. What was once only accessible by helicopter and snowcat is open to all thanks to Revelstoke Mountain Resort. Home to North America’s highest lift-serviced vertical— at 1,713 metres—Revelstoke has 1,227 hectares of fall line skiing and snowboarding. It is also the only resort world-wide to offer lift, cat, heli and backcountry access from it’s village base. With the addition of the alpine-style Nelsen Lodge and luxury real estate opportunities from Sotheby’s, Revelstoke is a truly worldclass destination.
2. WHITEWATER SKI RESORT, NELSON, B.C. Known for it’s dependable, dry snowfall usually totalling more than 13 metres a season, Whitewater is loved for it’s epic winters, laid-back locals and short lift lines. Sitting in the cradle of the Kootenays on the Selkirk Mountains, the resort offers endless terrain of steeps, deeps, chutes, bowls, glades, groomed cruisers and gentle rollers. With the addition of the new Glory Ridge chair, an extra 300 hectares and eight runs of new terrain will be available on the backside of Whitewater. THE BAY STREET BULL | 35
3. RED MOUNTAIN RESORT, ROSSLAND, B.C. Named among the Top Ten Resorts of North America by Forbes magazine, Red Mountain is fast becoming a popular ski destination. Only a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Spokane International Airport and a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Kelowna, Red is more accessible than other interior mountains. There are 88 runs spread across two stellar mountains of trees, steeps and powder, and Red’s Silverlode and Paradise areas offer plenty of wideopen groomed runs for beginners and intermediate skiers and boarders.
4. WHISTLER-BLACKCOMB, WHISTLER, B.C. By far the best-known ski destination in B.C., the mighty Whistler-Blackcomb is hard to compete with. The resort encompasses 3,307 hectares of skiable terrain, 200-plus trails on Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, and four villages. Still enjoying the high of the 2010 Winter Olympics and the second snowiest season on record (15 metres), Whistler expects a La Niña-induced record snowfall this season and even more visitors due to the successful games and greatly improved Sea to Sky Highway.
5. KICKING HORSE MOUNTAIN RESORT, GOLDEN, B.C. Having some of the lightest, driest and deepest snow in the country, Kicking Horse Resort has been aptly named “The Champagne Powder Capital of Canada.” But that’s not all they have to boast about. With the fourth-highest vertical descent in North America (1,260 metres), more than 1,120 hectares of skiable terrain with runs for every skill level, heli-skiing options, and a village full of other activities and amenities, Kicking Horse is one of the most exceptional ski resorts in B.C.
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6. FERNIE ALPINE RESORT, FERNIE, B.C. Located deep in the Rockies, Fernie boasts an authentic ski-town atmosphere and the most bowls in North America, with a variety of terrain for all levels of skiers. Just over an hour’s drive from Cranbrook or a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Calgary, Fernie sees an average of 9 metres of snowfall each season. The resort offers more than 1,000 hectares of ski terrain and 112 trails (including the five-kilometre Falling Star run), plus a rail park for snowboarders.
7. POWDER KING MOUNTAIN RESORT, PINE PASS, B.C. Nestled in the centre of Pine Pass in Northern B.C., Powder King Mountain Resort is a skier’s dream. The resort receives an amazing annual accumulation of 13 metres of pristine powder. While the on-site hotel offers modest, hostel-style rooms, luxe accommodations are available in nearby Mackenzie and Chetwynd. And with 24 runs spread across terrain ranging from breathtaking drops for the adventurous, to gentle groomers for beginners, it’s well worth the visit.
8. BIG WHITE SKI RESORT, KELOWNA, B.C. Located in the beautiful Okanagan Valley, Big White is known for sunny weather, dry powder and mild temperatures. The skies dust about 7 metres of powder on the mountain each year, providing perfect conditions for 1,026 hectares of skiable terrain. The largest completely ski-in, ski-out resort in Canada, Big White boasts 118 runs, a slalom hill, the award-winning Telus Terrain Park, and 15 hectares of night-skiing terrain. With deep powder bowls and wide-open glades, Big White promises a unique experience.
9. CYPRESS MOUNTAIN, WEST VANCOUVER, B.C. Host to several 2010 Olympic Winter Games events, Cypress Mountain is not to be missed. With 53 ski runs ranging from beginner to expert spread over 240 hectares of skiable terrain, the resort offers unmatched family skiing and riding. Add to that 6 metres of annual snowfall, better snowmaking and lighting, slope improvements, and a 610-metre vertical rise (the highest on the North Shore), and you have fantastic skiing just minutes from West Vancouver, and less than an hour from downtown Vancouver.
10. MT SEYMOUR RESORTS, VANCOUVER, B.C. Offering some of the most scenic views of Vancouver, the Islands and the Valley (especially at night), Mt Seymour Resorts is a great urban spot to carve turns, catch air or hike a pristine, snowy trail. The resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 80 hectares of terrain feature 39 trails (including 12 equipped with night lighting) ranging in difficulty from novice to advanced/expert, plenty of off-piste skiing, and four terrain parks. With 10 metres of snowfall each season, Mount Seymour is a familyfriendly winter wonderland. ď&#x201A;˘
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WINTER Fest Rev up your après-ski experience
BY MIKE DOJC his is the time of winter when the brash, full-bodied, Bourdeauxstyle reds Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz are most ripe to being uncorked. At the third annual Big Reds at Big White (Dec. 11) you can savour the newest releases from the Okanagan Valley’s vineyards while nibbling on aperitifs served up by Big White’s on-mountain chefs: Chris Thomas from 6 Degrees, Vincent Denis from Santé Grille, and Bryce Broadhurst from the Kettle Valley Steak House. More than 30 wineries will be on hand and pouring, including Sumac Ridge Estate, Mt. Boucherie and Tinhorn Creek. Big White is also offering a ‘Ski Free with Big Reds’ package available Dec. 8 through 12 with a two-night minimum stay. The packages start at $119 per person per night based on double occupancy and include lodging, free lift ticket and ticket to Big Reds. Packages are also available starting at $117 per person per night based on quad occupancy in a four-bedroom condo or vacation home. Another culinary calendar event for skiers who moonlight as oenophiles is the Winter Festival of Wine (Jan. 15-23). Sun Peaks resort is once again teaming up with the Okanagan Wine Festival Society to indulge visitors in a wide variety of seminars, progressive tastings
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and exquisite dining. Highlights this year include: the ever-popular Medal Winners Tastings, which is designed to accentuate flavours by using a combination of ultra premium wines and gourmet tapas; the Sun Peaks WestJet Progressive Wine Tasting, the flagship of the festival which lets you sample offerings from 20 wineries while listening live bands; and Worshipping Icewines, where you’ll get to sample grape varieties used to make the luscious specialty. Ski, sip and stay getaway packages start at $450 per person and include three events of your choosing.
WHISTLER Film Festival Variously dubbed “TIFF West” or “Sundance North,” the Whistler Film Festival (Dec. 1-5) boasts a flurry of outdoor screenings on a giant, inflatable screen and a reputation for marvelous slope-side parties. This burgeoning film fest, screening approximately 45 features and 35 shorts, is set to call action on its 10th edition. Awards up for grabs include Best Documentary, Best Short, People’s Choice and the prestigious Boros Award for the Best Canadian Feature. Honours are selected by an illustrious jury that in past years has been helmed by such renowned auteurs as Ivan Reitman, Atom Egoyan, Donald Sutherland, Norman Jewison and Robert Lantos.
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Fine dining in the mountains
BY MARC PHILLIPS
hen Whistler announced on its website that it was opening early—six days early to be exact—skiers and boarders flew into a frenzy. This was just the sign they were hoping for. La Niña was living up to the expectation of a mild and snowy B.C. ski season, gifting the West Coast with a number of snowfalls and low freezing levels to keep the snow from melting. But you don’t have to be a skilled skier or snowboarder to enjoy Whistler. Part of the Whistler (or any great ski resort, for that matter) experience is mingling, shopping, dining
and indulgence. Nestled at the bottom of the mountain, The Village is a pedestrian-only area with all the amenities within easy walking distance. There are spectacular mountain views, West Coast architecture and a quaint alpine atmosphere with a vibrant après-ski scene. When it comes to fine dinning, few can rival Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro. The simple label of ‘restaurant’ somehow seems inadequate as the Bistro consists of a formal dinning room, a champagne and wine bar, a vodka ice room, a wine cellar and (occasionally) a cooking school.
The dining room is described by its owner, André Saint-Jacques, as “a whimsical, energetic, and intimate place.” And he’s right. The tables are adorned with hand-painted Bopla plates and Riedel crystal stemware. The high-back leather chairs that frame the tables give off a medieval air. From the centre of the dinning room, a staircase descends into the temperature- and humidity-controlled cellar, home to more than 20,000 bottles consisting of over 2,100 different labels. Cruising the impressive wine cellar, it’s easy to see why the bistro has been the recipient of the Wine Spectators Grand Award of Excellence on numerous occasions. The cellar can host up to 30 people for a tasting. The wine list boasts an incredibly diverse selection of wine from around the world, including trophies like the 1964 Domaine De La Romanée-Conti for $20,000, or the 1914 Möet & Chandon Brut Impérial. But what truly sets the cellar apart is the incredible selection of champagne. According to Saint-Jacques, the Bearfoot Bistro sells more champagne than any other restaurant in Canada. You can learn all about how to sabre a champagne bottle from the owner; he just happens to be the Guinness World Record holder for sabring champagne (21 bottles in under a minute).
The Belvedere Ice Room The Belvedere Ice Room is Canada’s first subzero vodka room. Dreamt up by Bearfoot Bistro owner André Saint-Jacques, this sleek space opened just in time for the 2010 Winter Olympics. Since then, guests have been enjoying a range of 50 vodkas from around the world. Donning Canadian Goose-down parkas and fur-lined toques provided by the establishment, connoisseurs keep warm as they sample and sip their vodka in an arctic ambiance, where the temperature is a chilly -18 degrees Celsius and the bar is a block of ice. The menu features suitably chilled plates of gravad lax, oysters and caviar. A Quebec City-native, and a true showman, Saint-Jacques loves to provide exclusive dining experiences that wow guests. He may be noted more for his once-annual Masquerave party which, until cancelled a few years ago, made headlines for the number of people covered in everything from sushi to melted chocolate, but Saint-Jacques has a superb knowledge of wine and spirits, and he is every bit an oenophile. He teaches the art of champagne sabring in the bistro’s award-winning wine cellar, and he imports probably the largest quantity of Moët & Chandon of any Canadian restaurateur. Like Saint-Jacques, the Belvedere Ice Room is unapologetically decadent, so be prepared to shell out $250 for 28 grams of Russian caviar to go with that vodka. THE BAY STREET BULL | 41
The Chef. Bearfoot Bistro executive chef Melissa Craig is carving a name for herself in a world traditionally dominated by men. Melissa Craig has never been afraid of being first. At 20, she became the first female to win the National Apprentice Competition. At 28, she beat out some the best chefs in the country in a three-day competition to take the title of Canada’s Best Chef 2007. (She wasn’t even supposed to compete; she was the replacement for famed Vancouver chef Pino Posteraro of Cioppino’s Italian restaurant.) And last year, at 29, as the executive chef of Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro, she played a big part in making the restaurant the best in Whistler as chosen by Vancouver Magazine. Born in Chilliwack, B.C., Craig loved
to watch cooking shows and read cooking magazines. After high school, she studied culinary arts at Vancouver Island’s Malaspina University College and apprenticed at the island’s renowned Sooke Harbour. After a stint on the King Pacific Lodges, a luxury fishing resort in northern B.C., she headed to Australia for a year to work as a sous chef. Upon her return, Craig was hired at the Bearfoot Bistro, where she has been ever since. Now, as the executive chef, she’s able to travel around the world learning new techniques. She spent two weeks in Paris working under Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton. “I think I was the only female to ever step foot in that kitchen,” says Craig. One of her most memorable trips to date was the near-impossible-to-get-a-table-at El Bulli in Spain. The eatery’s famed chef, Ferran Adian, is known as the king of the molecular gastronomy movement. Since then, Craig has introduced new equipment to her kitchen and taken more risks with her dishes. Quiet, reserved, at times even nervous, this reluctant culinary star won’t disappoint. 42 | THE BAY STREET BULL
The Champagne Bar stands as one of the most stylish places in Whistler. A custommade pewter bar features a rail of ice that cools and illuminates your champagne flute from below. A massive river rock fireplace adds a sense of serenity. Under the command of award-winning executive chef, Melissa Craig, the Bearfoot Bistro has risen to the place to eat in Whistler. Often thought of as “too young, too female and too skinny” to helm a kitchen, Craig commanded the attention of critics when she won the 2007 Gold Metal Plates, the most prestigious culinary championship in the country, making her Canada’s top chef. It was her king crab dish paired with a 2006 Tantalus Vineyards Riesling that swung the judges. She presented the panel with the tender flesh of the claw inside a small cone of bamboo leaf, and she garnished the dish with tobiko (flying fish roe) and soy sauce pop rocks. The claw cone was accompanied by a golden-crusted, flavoured crab croquette atop a mango-basil purée, and a demitasse of king crab soup made with coconut milk and flavoured with hints of lemongrass and chili. Craig describes her menus as “modern Canadian cuisine with a unique blend of West Coast and international ingredients.” Her perennial favourites are the Vancouver Island black cod, the Canadian wild Arctic caribou chop, and the raisin ganache spiced bread. Patrons can choose from three- or five-course tasting menus. Current menu offerings include Balsamic Roasted Pemberton Vegetables, a starter with wild greens, goat cheese and celery root purée, and Sunshine Coast Sturgeon, a main featuring tiroler bacon, winter squash and parsley root. If Craig’s food leaves you not only satisfied but also curious, you can join her for a cooking class at the restaurant. With a group of eight or more, Craig will guide you through the three-hour process of creating a first-class, gourmet meal from appetizer to dessert. All the ingredients are provided and you have complete access to the Bearfoot Bistro’s gourmet kitchen. The cost includes the menu price ($45-$95) plus the $500 chef’s fee. A visit to Whistler’s premiere restaurant is unlike any other eatery. From the wine cellar tasting, the sabring how-to and the chic champagne bar, to the fine dining experience and cooking lessons with executive chef Melissa Craig, the Bearfoot Bistro is a luxurious and thoroughly delightful experience you’ll never forget.
THE INNOVATORS>> Revolutionizing the standard BY MIKE DOJC
ew technological sensations shake the very foundation of the status quo, chucking old standbys to the curb and replacing them with the irresistible allure of the new and notable. Larry Page and Sergey Brin did just that with Google. Before the YouTube acquisition, Android operating system, and R&D dreams of a driverless automobile, Google was once merely a brilliant search engine with a Spartan aesthetic and a kitschy predilection for a re-doodled logo to reflect holidays and events. As they stretched their technological tentacles into e-mail, maps, operating systems, cloud computing and various other areas, they grew pretty proficient at the fine art of mousetrap remodelling, a trait shared with the serial innovators.
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BOOKARC With three million units flying off the shelves within 80 days of its release, the iPad is the fastest adopted non-phone gadget, eclipsing the DVD player’s initial sales almost tenfold to clinch the title. There are scads of ways to enjoy this trendy device on the go, but the solid yet sleek BookArc provides the perfect tabletop perch for your iPad when you’re at home or the office. Fashioned from a swooping piece of heavy-gauge steel, the BookArc’s silicone inserts hold your iPad in four viewing positions. “Work mode” slants your iPad in portrait or landscape, while “storage mode” props your iPad fully upright, once again, either in widescreen or vertical vantage point. You can display photos, watch movies, or present to a meeting in landscape position and charge your iPad while comfortably working on it due to the elegant design. It can even dock while in a case, which will keep sauce splatter at bay when using your iPad to follow a recipe in the kitchen. And when you need to send a long e-mail or update a spreadsheet, just pair this stand with an Apple Wireless Keyboard and you have an instant workstation. twelvesouth.com PORSCHE 918 SPYDER PLUG-IN HYBRID This plug-in hybrid convertible super car appears to be an amalgam culled from science fiction, promising spectacular checkered-flag-winning performance without any of the associated carbon emissions guilt. But this is no driving contradiction. High performance electric motors mounted on the front and rear, backstopped by a 3.4-litre V-8, can generate 500 hp and accelerate from standstill to 100 kilometres per hour in less than 3.2 seconds. On the environmental side, it coaxes an astonishing 33 km per litre and can run for more than 25 km on the lithium-ion battery pack alone. Porsche invited 400 prospective buyers to an airport hangar at Pebble Beach’s Cours D’Elegance to give the concept Spyder a whirl. Details on the production model will be forthcoming in early 2011, but the price tag is expected to be north of $600,000, with the car set for introduction in 2013. porsche.com
SHARPIE LIQUID PENCIL We’ve come a long way from etching stick figures on cave walls. While breakthroughs in writing utensils don’t usually get much credit for accelerating advances in science and technology, the pencil (derived from the Latin word peniculus, which is also the diminutive for the male appendage) was undoubtedly a fire starter. Early styluses—thin metal rods that left light but readable markings—did the trick, but the advent of the lead and, later, graphite pencils catapulted papyrus scribbling to new heights in terms of clarity and legibility. While widespread adoption of the ballpoint pen would eventually crimp usage, Sharpie’s rewriting of the eraser-backed standby’s DNA aims to give pencils their mojo back. The Liquid Pencil combines the best of both worlds: the smoothness and break-free tip of a pen married with the erasing ease of a good old No. 2. After putting pencil to paper the liquid graphite is erasable for three days. sharpie.com MPOWER EMERGENCY ILLUMINATOR There are the plastic flashlights you stow away in your kitchen cupboard in case of a blown fuse or power outage, and then there’s the mPower Emergency Illuminator. Designed by the engineering whizzes at Porsche Design Studios, this modern torch is a stunner with an equally fetching practical side that includes a novel fail-safe. Two standard CR123 three-volt batteries power the 180-lumen LED light beam, and these primary batteries can be replaced after years of continued use, but the mPower is also equipped with a reserve lithium battery that has a shelf life of 20-plus years. If the primary batteries run out of juice, simply twist the reserve battery cap until you hear a snap, indicating the battery’s suspended electrolyte has punctured the electrode cavity, giving you two more hours of light. A 2010 Consumer Electronics Show Personal Electronics Design and Engineering Award honoree, the mPower also features a convenient USB plug to recharge your cell or other gadgets handy to have operational in a pinch. mpowertech.com DENON 100 TURNTABLE Founded in 1910 as part of Nippon Chikuonki Shokai, Denon’s debut product was Japan’s first gramophone. The audio specialist’s record players really hit their stride in 1970 when they introduced a precision high-torque AC motor for low speeds, with magnetic pulse detection along the circumference of the record platter. This reduced rumble and added more rotation stability, offering a marked improvement over mechanisms that employed idler wheels or belt drives. Denon’s direct-drive turntable soon became a major player in the broadcast radio business, as well as a listening room showpiece. Leverage a century of finely tuned turntable technology to faithfully reproduce the rich tones embedded in the vinyl grooves of your favourite records. denon100.com
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HOROLOGICAL MACHINE NO. 4 THUNDERBOLT Six-figure wrist wear taking design cues from macho industries such as aeronautics and Formula 1 racing is nothing new, but the influence is usually subtle. Maximilian Büsser and Friends has taken the A-10 Thunderbolt (a.k.a. the Warthog) and crafted a luxe timepiece ($158,000) that looks poised to takeoff and strafe the sky. The titanium and sapphire timepiece is highlighted by two jet engine turbines, one that tells the time, and another with a gauge that displays the power reserve—the running time before the next wind is needed. mbandf.com HATTERAS GT60 Clearly built with the ultimate billfish expedition in mind, the GT60 is a smooth-riding tournament class vessel. While the dashing silhouette cut by the striking bow and comely deckhouse of this 17.7-metre sea skimmer are reminiscent of the original 18-metre yacht, the GT model ups the ante on galley and mezzanine styling and jacks up the performance. A single integrated fuel tank and resin-infusion technology in the fiberglass hull cuts the yacht’s heft by more than a tonne. Be the first to the fish for a change and still be able to make port without stopping: every model in the GT series clocks a minimum top speed of 76 km/h fully loaded, and cruises at about 67 km/h with a range exceeding 740 km. hatterasyachts.com
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CICLOTTE Exercise equipment usually looks gauche in a living room. Bowflexes and weight benches should be confined to the subterranean realm, but Luca Schieppati’s functional re-imagining of his concept bike (exhibited in the Milan Design Museum), has turned spin class into art class. The circular carbon and steel frame is a stunning example of industrial design, and the touchscreen is seamlessly integrated to preserve the sleek, modern silhouette. As ergonomically marvelous as it is aesthetically beautiful, the stationary bike’s seat and horn-shaped handlebars adjust both vertically and horizontally for pedalling tailored to your body shape. The rotating mechanism is a dual satellite epiclycloid with four gears, which causes the flywheel to turn four times for every pedal rotation, and the bike has 12 levels of resistance. ciclotte.com
ULTRASONE EDITION 10 These haute couture open-backed sound cradles out of Germany take their design cues from the flitting wings of butterflies and crib extravagant notes straight out of Lady Gaga’s playbook. The headband and zebrano wood-accented ear cups are outfitted with ultra supple Ethiopian sheepskin leather padding, assuring a lavish listening experience for hours at a time. In keeping with its exotic sonic flare, the outer ear cans feature galvanic Ruthenium plating. The SLogic Natural Surround delivers vivid three-dimensional sound, which resonates in your outer ear before gently dipping into the recesses of the auditory canal for an extraordinarily spacious tonal experience, even at low volume. edition-10.com
BLACKBERRY TORCH Boldly bringing the vertical slider touchscreen back into mobile vogue was a blatant attempt to rekindle waning BlackBerry lust, but it worked. The device formerly nicknamed “crackberry” is contending with steadily mounting competition and the creeping perception that they’ve become stodgy—but the Torch, equipped with the new BlackBerry 6 OS, is anything but. After sloughing the often-criticized Surepress touchscreen in favor of a more mainstream touchscreen interface with support for taps and pinch zooming gestures, the Torch is a bit of a reverse mullet—it’s a touchy feely party in the front, and all business in the back with BlackBerry’s top tier keyboard and robust innards that maintain the Fort Knox-calibre security and e-mail encryption corporations count on. They’ve also pumped up the megapixel count to five on the camera/camcorder (which also features an LED flash), and web browsing is noticeably buffed up as well. Powered by the Webkit rendering engine, web pages pop up looking like they should—and with a lot more gusto. blackberry.com APPLE TV 2010 Apple has trimmed its hobbyhorse computer-to-television media streamer, making the sleek, matte black box 80 percent more compact than the previous incarnation—and at $119, it also comes in at half the price. Apple’s streaming sideline is also a whole lot juicier; just plug it in and connect Apple TV to your television set via an HDMI cord, and your digital library is a couple of remote clicks away. Built-in 802.11n Wi-Fi lets you effortlessly play content stowed on your iPad, iPhone, laptop or iPod Touch, as well as YouTube, net radio, Flickr, Mobile Me and more. But tapping into the Net and your household’s existing digital is old hat. The main attraction is movie and TV episode rentals from the iTunes store, streamed in 720p HD with Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound. Apple TV also makes Netflix’s vast library accessible to subscribers. While PlayStation 3 and Xbox 360 owners already enjoy access to streaming Netflix, Apple TV brings non-gamers into the fold at a fraction of the cost. apple.com THE BAY STREET BULL | 47
BLACK 48 | THE BAY STREET BULL
arren Aronofsky is the master of delving into the subconscious. Driven to reveal those all-consuming forces (or demons) that lie beneath the surface of his characters, he has produced a nice body of work since his 1998 directorial debut, Pi, the black-and-white American psychological thriller, for which he took top directing honours at the Sundance Film Festival. His most successful flick to date has been The Wrestler (2008), starring Mickey Rourke, who plays a grappler past his prime unable to step out of the spotlight. But the reviews of Black Swan, Aronofsky’s latest film, have started to flutter in, and the Oscar buzz is building. Opening in theatres on Dec.1, Black Swan, which debuted at the prestigious Venice International Film Festival in September, takes us into the very insular and very competitive world of ballet. Starring Natalie Portman as Nina Sayers, a ballerina chosen for the coveted lead in the New York City Ballet’s avant garde production of Swan Lake, the film follows the mental decline of the young ingénue, who, in an attempt to embody the dark and light forces of her role, loses her grip on reality and spirals into a world of paranoia, delusion and freakish fantasies. Using reflective surfaces (mostly mirrors), hand-held camera shots, Clint Mansell’s stirring score, and visceral sound effects to capture the physical demands of ballet, the film leaves you transfixed both in fascination and fear as you pay witness to the spiritual cost of Nina’s metamorphosis.
Our Kind of Traitor by John le Carré The Cold War may have ended and George Smiley, John le Carré’s most memorable character, may have retired, but that hasn’t heralded the prolific writer’s demise. Instead, le Carré has soldiered on, crafting thrillers teased from crooked corporations and squabbling intelligence agencies—surprising, since the 1950s, the period in which he came of age, has provided the context for his two best-selling novels, The Spy Who Came in from the Cold (1963) and Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy (1974). But le Carré is a skilled storyteller. In his latest novel, Our Kind of Traitor (Penguin), Perry Makepiece, an Oxford don and a top-notch tennis player, and his girlfriend, Gail Perkins, a quick-witted, young lawyer-on-therise, are vacationing in Antigua. When the resort’s tennis pro urges Perry to play against Dima, a local Russian émigré, the on-court match blossoms into an off-court social invitation where it soon emerges that Dima isn’t just a rich man with several dubious ties to Caribbean banks—he’s the money launderer for the Russian mob. And he wants to cut a deal with British Intelligence. Clearly enthralled by the secret world of operatives and high finance, Perry and Gail find themselves entangled in a cast of spies. As the drama heads towards its climax, readers will revel in le Carré’s sparkling dialogue of deceit and despair, aware—at all times—that the spymaster is back in top form.
FALL OF GIANTS by Ken Follett (Dutton) follows five families across the globe as their fates intertwine with the implosions of the British, Austro-Hungarian and Russian empires during World War I. The thousand-pluspage tome delivers all the elements that Follett fans love: historical accuracy, compelling characters and heartstopping action.
SQUIRREL SEEKS CHIPMUNK by David Sedaris (Little, Brown & Co.) is a collection of short animal tales for the “jaded inhabitants of the modern era.” Channelling the humanlike thoughts of the furryhoofed sort, Sedaris and illustrator Ian Falconer make us laugh at our self-centred, pitying selves while imparting a lesson or two.
MINI SHOPAHOLIC by Sophie Kinsella (Random House) finds Becky’s daughter, Minnie, hitting the terrible twos and loving those luxury brands. When the financial crisis hits the Brandon family, hubby Luke scrambles for new business and Becky vows to stop shopping—that is, until she’s worn everything in her closet at least three times.
ROOM by Emma Donoghue (HarperCollins) is written from the perspective of five-year-old Jack who, with his mother, has been held hostage for years in a garden shed. When they escape, the two of them must adjust to life outside, with its bright lights, noise and people. A touching story of love and determination.
FREEDOM by Jonathan Franzen (HarperCollins) captures the comedy and tragedy of the cost of too much freedom and the compromises made in middle age, as hands-on, Whole Foods-loving parents Patty and Walter Berglund struggle to learn how to live in our increasingly complex and confusing world.
BAD BLOOD by John Sandford (Putnam) has the new sheriff, Lee Coakley, and detective Virgil Flowers mystified as to why a nice kid like Bobby Tripp would kill. When Tripp’s body is found hanging in his jail cell, the Minnesota sleuths hit the back roads and uncover a religious cult-like community involving scores of rural families.
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Page 10: (top) Golden Sands Villas golf course, Puerto Rico. 12-13: Palm Island, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 14: (top) Bequia Beach Hotel; (bottom) Darkview Falls, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 18: Carnival, Trinidad & Tobago. 19: (top) Carnival,Trinidad and Tobago; (bottom) Carnival dancer, Barbados. 20: Carnival, Haiti. 25: Photo by Blake Jorgensen. 26-29: Photos courtesy of Retallack. 38-39: Photos courtesy of Sun Peaks Resort. 40-42: Photos courtesy of Bearfoot Bistro. 48: Natalie Portman, photo by Niko Tavernise.
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