Marinalife Winter 2023

Luxury Reimagined

Walking a beach where the only footprints in the sand, are your own. Enjoying a refreshing drink from an island bar only accessible by boat. Waking up each morning with the flexibility to sail anywhere you wish. These experiences redefine luxury -- and are the hallmark of any yacht charter vacation.

This year, we invite you to discover unbridled freedom and authentic travel experiences with The Moorings. Unforgettable moments await.

Tomasz Banaczek

Dear Fellow Boaters:

Happy New Year from the entire Marinalife team! We’re eager to kick off 2023 with three exciting announcements for the boating community.

First of all, it’s time to celebrate winners in the 2022 Best Marina Contest. Let’s raise a glass to Brunswick Landing Marina for taking the top prize in the Best Large Marina category and Chicks Marina for garnering first place as the Best Small Marina. To learn which other marinas are honored, please turn to page 12.

Marinalife would also like to extend our congratulations to the winners and runners up in our annual Photography Contest. Our judges reviewed more than 300 entries and gave accolades to seven outstanding images that reflect our love of life on the water. Check out the award-winning photos and read their back stories on page 14.

reservations, finances and customer services. Boaters will enjoy a smoother marina experience with guaranteed slips, less paperwork to complete and enhanced performance at participating marinas. To see Marinalife Manager 2.0 in action, contact getintouch@marinalife.com

In addition to jumpstarting 2023 with exciting news, this issue of Marinalife is also packed with ideas that will help you gear up for the next boating season. If you’re scoping out dreamy cruising destinations, the Lesser Antilles, Croatia and the west side of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula are ripe for adventure. For those who are contemplating the Great Loop, a couple who completed the journey offer tips to plan a successful trip.

If you’re snow-weary at home and longing for warm waters, the Caribbean Special Section will stir your senses with the sounds of reggae and calypso music, stunning images of Bahamian islands only reached by boat, and the flavors of a Jamaican rum that brings James Bond to the pages of Marinalife.

Safe travels and happy boating,

Marinalife is also pleased to launch the newly upgraded version of Marinalife Manager 2.0, our software service that benefits the entire maritime industry. Marinas can simplify and streamline their operations by using it to better manage docks, Susan Elnicki Wade, Marinalife Editor-in-Chief

Marina Updates

Construction Is Underway at Hawks Cay

Hawks Cay Resort in Duck Key, FL, is excited to announce that upgrades are underway. Construction recently began on new dock pilings and a new dockside store. The facility improvements should have minimal impact on its boaters. Recently added to the Hawks Cay experience is the Better Than Most SCUBA program. Divers of all levels can enjoy two tank reef scuba trips in the Florida Keys. For more, visit hawkscay.com/experience/ scuba-diving

Suntex Marinas Expands to the Florida Panhandle

This past fall, premier marina owner and operator, Suntex Marinas, announced its latest acquisition of Legendary Marina in Destin, FL. The spacious property along the panhandle is one of the largest dry storage facilities in the United States with more than 180,000 square feet, accommodating up to 780 vessels. Amenities include in-and-out water services, fuel, ships store and more. Enjoy the close proximity to Destin’s 24 miles of gorgeous beaches. Visit suntex.com

WHAT’s new WITH

WINTER 2023

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

Oasis Marinas Welcomes More New Properties

The mid-Atlantic-based marina management company continues to grow, coining its eighth property in Florida, Four Fish Marina in Jensen Beach. Located on the Indian River, the marina offers 30 slips accommodating vessels up to 90 feet. Amenities include dry storage, a fuel dock, and lovely cottages and accommodations

at Four Fish Inn & Marina. Recent additions to the Oasis family also include Cape Charles Yacht Center in Cape Charles, VA, and Port Conneaut Marina in Conneaut, OH. Stay tuned for updates at oasismarinas.com

Upcoming Boat Shows

St. Petersburg Power & Sailboat Show

St. Petersburg, FL

January 19-22, 2023

Seattle Boat Show Seattle, WA

February 3-11, 2023

Miami International Boat Show Miami, FL

February 15-19, 2023

Palm Beach International Boat Show

West Palm Beach, FL

March 23-26, 2023

Hawks Cay lagoon

Legendary Marina

2022 BEST MARINA CONTEST

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

GA 1st PLACE

BRUNSWICK LANDING MARINA IN

BRUNSWICK,

In the heart of historic downtown Brunswick, this getaway offers first-class service and amenities in a charming southern destination. The spacious marina boasts 445+ dry and wet slips and marine services by highly skilled technicians. The property is ideal for all seasons as it’s constructed in former U.S. Navy Hurricane Hole with concrete floating docks protected from storms by land on three sides. The boatyard offers year-round service including repairs, detailing, bottom paint, custom woodworking and more. Over the years the marina has evolved into a party hub for cruisers with daily social activities plus free wine and beer three times a week.

IN HILTON HEAD, SC As the largest deep-water marina on Hilton Head Island, Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina is a secluded paradise in the center of South Carolina’s Lowcountry. The marina boasts 190 wet slips on floating docks accommodating boats ranging from 15 to 150’ and offers an overnight dock with fuel and pump out at the slip. Shelter Cove Marina promenade is packed with seven waterfront restaurants and jewelry, clothing and gift shops. The property also offers seasonal entertainment, as well as shuttle service to the neighboring Palmetto Dunes Resort amenities. On-site activities include fishing, eco- and dolphin tours, water sport charters, kayak rentals and more.

2nd PLACE

provisioning, a sportfishing charter fleet and on-site restaurant, North 43 Bistro. The 2021 expansion of linear dockage by SF Marine now allows yachts up to 200’ with increased depth capabilities.

— SHELTER COVE HARBOUR & MARINA

2nd PLACE CHAMPLIN’S MARINA & RESORT

IN BLOCK ISLAND, RI Situated on the Great Salt Pond, this resort offers a laid-back vibe along Block Island’s western shore. Even though it falls in our best small marina category, Champlin’s is one of New England’s largest marina resorts. Owned and operated by TPG Marinas, the facility offers 100 wet slips and floating docks and accommodates vessels up to 225’ with 15’ drafts. The charming hotel boasts 42 nautical-themed guest rooms with waterfront views and on-site eateries. In addition to last year’s full guest room renovation, Champlin’s plans to update its electric service and pool and offer new fuel pumps on the dock this year.

1st PLACE

CHICKS MARINA IN

KENNEBUNKPORT, ME

Chicks is no stranger to Marinalife’s Best Marina Contest and retains the crown as reigning first place champ for the third year in a row! Tucked away in the idyllic southern coast of Maine, Chicks is known as one of New England’s cleanest marinas as it strives to continuously upgrade facilities to ensure safety and efficiency. The marina offers seasonal and transient dockage, custom boat care services and indoor, heated winter storage. The property has about 50 slips and is the only marina in Kennebunkport to offer 91 Octane gasoline and ultra-low sulfur diesel fuel.

3rd PLACE — JEKYLL HARBOR MARINA IN JEKYLL ISLAND,

GA In a secluded cut along Jekyll Island’s Golden Isles, this full-service marina offers 50 interior wet slips for annual storage, accommodating vessels up to 150’. Amenities include dry storage, fuel dock, marina store, a fish-cleaning station and complimentary bike and golf cart rentals. Dine at Zachary’s Restaurant & Bar on-site, relax in the pool and hot tub, or grill out at the picnic areas. Explore the island’s 10 miles of beaches and attractions such as golf courses, bike paths and the Georgia Sea Turtle Center a few miles from the marina.

Heidi Kim

2022 PHOTO CONTEST

BY SUSAN ELNICKI WADE

WE ARE PLEASED TO ANNOUNCE the winners of Marinalife’s 2022 Photo Contest. Choosing three finalists and five runners-up was no easy task after reviewing more than 300 images from around the globe. The top eight shots caught our eye, because they exemplify what we love about boating — the breathtaking beauty of aquatic creatures, the exhilarating challenges of boat races, the serenity of marinas at sunset and the majestic charm of coastal towns. Many thanks to everyone who participated in the contest by sending memorable pictures of life on the water. For the first time in the history of the contest, aerial drone shots and black and white images were submitted, bringing spectacular new perspectives to our maritime activities.

WINNERS

Whale Spotting on Long Island ⊳ by Joanna Steidle

A massive humpback whale had wandered about 20 feet offshore, gracefully dipping down to feed upon a school of menhaden fish swimming off Two Mile Hollow Beach in East Hampton, NY. Joanna’s hands slightly trembled with excitement, but she waited for her target to rise back up to the water’s surface. When the whale emerged from the waves, she quickly switched her drone from video to camera and started snapping shots. Holding steady to capture the right moment paid off for this Long Island native, who started racing drones in 2015 and was certified as a commercial remote pilot in 2017. Since then, she’s built an extensive collection of aerial photos of sharks, rays and other aquatic creatures in the region. For her, drones offer a different bird’s eye perspective and new dimensions to places you think you already know. “I like to make people think, stare and wonder.” With this stunning whale photo, she certainly succeeded. For more, go to joannasteidle.com

A Spectacular Sailboat Regatta

by Dieter Vollmer

⊲

Sometimes when you least expect it, the opportunity for a great shot presents itself, so it’s wise to keep your camera handy. That’s what Dieter Vollmer learned while vacationing on the Italian Riviera. He put sunbathing on pause when he heard that the Vele d’Epoca in Imperia, Italy, was taking place offshore. This annual regatta of vintage sailboats from around the Mediterranean sounded interesting to the vocational education teacher and amateur photographer from Cologne, Germany. He grabbed his camera and snagged a ticket for an escort boat that was taking spectators out to the regatta. When he arrived at the race, Dieter was awed by the

his small escort boat, he hung on for dear life while

to convert the sailboat photo to black and white to give it a

boats.

⊳ Night Lights in Ocean City by Moses Cohen

During the pandemic, some people bingewatched TV shows or taught themselves how to bake bread. Moses Cohen used his COVID down-time to learn about drone photography. After building a career at a healthcare agency, he was ready to take on a new skill. He bought a few drones and got his license in 2020, then began shooting photos for real estate clients. His business began to blossom in the Delmarva area, and Moses attended the White Marlin Open, one of his favorite fishing tournaments along the Atlantic. The weather and wind were especially rough one day, so most of the boats remained at the Sunset Marina in Ocean City, MD. That evening, he sent up his drone and captured this striking image of the vessels lined up along the docks. The colorful lights make this a stand-out shot, but Moses used no filters on the picture. Those are the brilliant hues that the captains chose for their boats.

gorgeous historic sailboats, but as the waves swelled and rocked

shooting photos as quickly as possible. Back home, he decided

dramatic effect and old-fashioned feel to match the vintage

PHOTO CONTEST RUNNERS-UP

MARINALIFE also extends congratulations to the five runners up in the 2022 Photo Contest. Their images showcase the whimsical nature of sea creatures, the rugged beauty of seascapes, and the magical play of light on the sky and water.

Returning from Alice Kelly Billfish Tournament by Terri Chabot

Battle of the Buoy in Depoe Bay by Lisa Smith

A Magical Sunset in Florida by Mark Krancer

Cruising around Los Cabos by Eduardo Arteago

Golden Hour at the Marina by Nicholas Heinemann

GALLEY GADGETS & ESSENTIALS

CULINARY ESSENTIALS

TURBOFRY AIR FRYER

Chefman

When it comes to cooking, air fryers are the latest craze. This trendy appliance will show you why. The portable, 2-quart TurboFry makes cooking while traveling easier than ever, and its multipurpose use and compatibility reduces clutter on your vessel. ($49.99) chefman.com/collections/air-fryers-1

ELITE COLLECTION MINI FOOD PROCESSOR

Cuisinart

Mini food processors are ideal for the galley, as you can avoid the challenging task of chopping while rockin’ away onboard. Lightweight and durable, the 4-cup chopper/grinder is made with a SmartPower blade and lock system allowing for safe and easy storage. ($59.95) cuisinart.com/shopping/appliances/ food_processors/ch-4dc/

INDUCTION NON-STICK COOKWARE SET Magma

This company is known for high-quality products designed for travel durability, and the award-winning portable cookware set has been voted among boaters as a favorite to use onboard. The 10-piece set is made of mirror-polished stainless steel and reliable non-stick coating. ($329.99) magmaproducts.com/ products/nesting-non-stick-cookware-10-piece

FUSION SOLAR OVEN GoSun

Specifically designed for land or sea adventures, the Fusion is the first solar oven that can also cook without the sun. The portable hybrid item is both solar and electric and only needs a little bit of sunshine or can be powered by 12-volts from a car, RV or boat. ($369) gosun.co/products/fusion

Magma Products

Magma Cookware Set

GALLEY GADGETS

RECHARGEABLE PORTABLE BLENDER

BlendJet

This next-generation portable blender is a gamechanger when it comes to galley necessities. Perfect for travel, the BlendJet powers through anything in 20 seconds flat including frozen fruit, veggies, ice and more. The battery lasts for 15+ blends and includes a rapid-charging, waterproof USB port. ($49.95) blendjet.com

BRILLIANCE STAINSHIELD FOOD STORAGE CONTAINER SET

Rubbermaid

Reliable, durable tubs you can easily stack and stow are essential when it comes to galley food storage, and this set has it all. Shatter-resistant, airtight and perfect for on the go, the Brilliance modular containers will stop the sea from making your food soggy or stale. (Prices vary) rubbermaid.com/ brilliance.html

TEAK DISH CUP, SPICE & PAPER TOWEL RACK

SeaTeak

For easy storage in any size galley, this all-in-one rack will keep your space tidy and organized. Made from kiln-dried, fully aged teak wood, this top-quality piece has a spice rack, paper towel rack and holds up to four plates. ($110.66) defender.com/product. jsp?id=101154

DESIGN COLLECTION CUTLERY FOR BOATS

Victoria Yachting

Grace your galley with this gorgeous upscale cutlery made specifically for boating. The modern stainlesssteel set is designed to withstand seawater with scratch and water-resistance, and it’s also dishwasher-friendly. Fill out the online form for custom products. (Prices vary) victoria-yachting.com/ boat-linen/cutlery-design

BlendJet

Rubbermaid

EXPLORE

NEW SMYRNA BEACH

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

Where fields of sugarcane and crops once thrived is now a sweet escape to sandy shorelines and serene destinations along Florida’s East Coast.

The quaint beach town of New Smyrna is situated south of the Ponce Inlet where the Indian River meets the Atlantic. The Timucua Indians once dwelled on these lands and built the 50-foot high Turtle Mound out of oyster shells, which is now a fascinating historic site. After colonization by a mix of immigrant groups, Scottish physician Dr. Andrew Turnbull named the region New Smyrna as an ode to his wife’s Greek heritage.

Just upstream where Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon claimed the inlet, visitors can climb the 175-foot Ponce Inlet Lighthouse & Museum for a gorgeous birds-eye view of the

area. Guiding sailors since 1887, it’s the tallest lighthouse in Florida and one of the tallest in the entire United States.

Just south of the Ponce Inlet shoreline, stroll the boardwalk along Smyrna Dunes Park to find picnic pavilions, dog-friendly beaches and a fishing pier. Head south down the coast to a surfers’ paradise along the endless strip of oceanfront.

In addition to sand, surf and fish, explore New Smyrna’s many attractions. For a blend of historic sites, parks, shopping and dining, check out the Canal Street Historic District. Stop by the New Smyrna Beach Museum of History, Mary S. Harrell Black Heritage Museum and green spaces such as Pettis Park, Old Fort Park and Manatee All Children’s Playground at Riverside Park.

Alexa Zizzi

A few miles away, visit the historic Sugar Mill Ruins, once part of the 19th century Cruger-dePeyster Plantation, and explore the Coquina Sugar Factory ruins that span the 17-acre site.

For watersports and marine wildlife galore, book a boat tour through local rentals such as New Smyrna Dolphin and Manatee Adventure Tour, Sea Dogs Dive Center, Ponce Inlet Watersports, Turtle Mound River Tours and Sand Dollar Boat Rentals.

Across the north causeway, the lively scene along Flagler Avenue boasts dining, shopping and beachy activities. The popular boulevard hosts wine walks, festivals and a vibrant nightlife. ml

marinalife.com/NewSmyrnaBeach

WHERE TO DOCK

New Smyrna Marina 386-427-4514

Adjacent to Chicken Island, this full-service marina offers 31 transient slips and amenities including in-slip fueling, a fish cleaning station and a heated swimming pool. Be sure to check out the gorgeous villa rentals and event venue.

New Smyrna Beach City Marina 386-409-2042

Situated near the Canal Street Historic District, this marina welcomes transients on a first-come, first-served basis, accommodating vessels up to 28 feet.

River Deck Marina 386-428-7827

Just south of New Smyrna Beach City Marina near the River Deck Tiki Bar & Restaurant, this facility offers daily wet slips and overnight storage. Boat and pontoon rentals are available, as well as a marina store and bait shop on-site.

WHERE TO DINE

The Breakers Restaurant 386-428-2019

At the tip of Flagler Avenue, The Breakers is located directly on the beach, serving fresh seafood with a side of oceanfront views. Try a mouth-watering burger or fresh mahi while sipping on icy cocktails.

Third Wave Café & Wine Bar 386-402-7864

Also located along Flagler Avenue, this enchanted garden setting offers a mix of global and Southern coastal traditions. Wood-fired pizza and fresh seafood are served alfresco under trees wrapped in twinkling lights.

The Garlic & Blu Bar 386-424-6660

Another gorgeous setting under light-strung trees, this Italian restaurant lets you step into what feels like the Tuscan countryside. Menus offer an incredible wine selection and spins on pastas, steaks and seafood.

The Mermaid Café 386-410-4033

For a tasty breakfast or lunch, this adorable little cottage along Flagler Avenue is a waffle bar and home of New Orleans-style beignets. Feast on chicken and waffles, omelets, salads and more at this family-owned café.

Yellow Dog Eats 386-410-4824

On the other side of the North Causeway across Indian River, this restaurant offers everything from delicious southern BBQ and pulled pork to tacos and seafood nachos to vegetarian and vegan options.

The Breakers Restaurant on Flagler Avenue

BaldyGull/Flickr

Alexa Zizzi

ISLE OF HOPE MARINA

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

OF downtown Savannah’s Historic District, an escape to southern charm awaits. The elegant name matches the peaceful vibe at Isle of Hope Marina.

JUST MINUTES OUTSIDE

Drive’s waterfront road where live oaks and Spanish moss drape alongside ancient ruins.

Owned and operated by TPG Marinas, this facility boasts 4,000 linear feet of floating docks accommodating vessels up to 200’, as well as 60 dry storage spaces for small, trailered boats. Amenities include a seasonal swimming pool, boaters’ lounge, event space and fuel, as well as bicycle and car rentals.

A scenic backdrop of historic homes and southern foliage surround the marina that is adjacent to the Wormsloe Historic Site. Take a stroll down Bluff

Venture downtown and around the local area for upscale golf courses,

shopping, dining and more. Less than two miles from the marina, choose from a selection of restaurant options including Driftaway Café, Castaways, Sandfly Bar-B-Q, Rocky’s NY Deli, The 5 Spot Sandfly and Tequila Town Mexican Restaurant.

For arts and culture, check out the historic district’s sites such as the Savannah History Museum and the Georgia State Railroad Museum. Just steps away, Telfair Square’s art hub features Telfair Museums’ three sites: Jepson Center, Telfair Academy and Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters.

Lined with 18th and 19th century architecture, historic monuments and lush

“We operate with very high standards that ensure a consistent and structured service to our boaters, whether staying with us during high or low season.”

greenery, Savannah’s parks and squares are enjoyable spaces in the area. Visit stately federal-style homes, churches, parks, museums and more at Calhoun, Chatham, Chippewa, Lafayette and Madison Squares, to name a few.

For one of the most fun local attractions, a Savannah Bananas baseball game at Grayson Stadium is well worth the visit. This lively game with acrobatic dancing players makes baseball exciting.

Recent upgrades to Isle of Hope Marina feature Marker 46A, the gorgeous 2,200-square-foot pavilion event space overlooking the water. Don’t miss the Isle of Hope Art & Music Festival held here each fall, hosting talented local artists.

TPG Marinas recently acquired the property and looks forward to continuing improvements and providing exceptional customer service.

“Your boat will be in great hands with

a highly experienced team in a safe, secure marine environment,” says General Manager Chris Hodges. “We operate with very high standards that ensure a consistent and structured service to our boaters, whether staying with us during high or low season.” ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/IsleOfHopeMarina

D Wright

Madison Square

Lafayette Square

Milind Balaji

Stephen Rahn

River Street

Everyone knows Australia's Great Barrier Reef is the world's largest, but few know that the second biggest is the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System that stretches from Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula southward to Honduras, most of it lying off the coast of Belize.

The nearly 200-mile-long Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System (BBRRS) includes more than 400 cayes, as well as three of the four largest atolls in the northern hemisphere: Glover's Reef Atoll, Lighthouse Reef Atoll and Turneffe Atoll.

The raw beauty of this part of the Caribbean can't be overstated. It's a place where nature rules, and the goal is to keep it that way. In 1996, BBRRS was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site to recognize its importance as a marine habitat and global natural resource.

For boaters, scuba divers, snorkelers and nature-lovers,

Belize offers a recreational treasure trove. Its reefs, atolls and coastline are studded with shipwrecks and teem with hundreds of species of fish and marine wildlife such as manatees, whale sharks, sea turtles and marine crocodiles. It also supports major bird colonies such as Half Moon Caye’s red-footed booby colony, Man O’ War Caye’s brown booby habitat and the common noddy colony on Glover's Reef.

Naturally, fishing is a popular sport in these parts. Dedicated anglers should check out the comprehensive Fishing in Belize website (ourbelizevacation.com/fishing-in-belize), where you find info on locations, regulations, local species, seasons and other details.

To help put together an unforgettable Belize itinerary, here's a look at five picturesque points both on and off the country's coast, tracking from north to south, that are tailor made for a western Caribbean jaunt.

Secret Beach, Belize

ROAMING THE REEFS off the Coast of Belize

BY DICK KERN

Starting Point: Ambergris Caye

Belize’s largest island, Ambergris Caye, is 25 miles long and about a mile wide. Near the southern end, you find San Pedro Town, where most of the island’s marinas, hotels and restaurants are located. Snorkelers flock to nearby Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a five-square-mile underwater park with four different zones that include The Reef, Seagrass Beds, Mangroves and Shark Ray Alley.

Just north of San Pedro Town is Secret Beach, a prime white-sand destination for tourists and locals that also features cenotes, sinkholes and caves. For onshore accommodations, check out Alaia Belize, an Autograph Collection Hotel featuring a rooftop pool and lounge, as well as upscale drinking and dining options.

While the waters around Ambergris Caye and other sites on BBRRS are relatively calm, navigation by sight with a bow watch is recommended due to abundant skinny water and coral reefs. The good news is numerous mooring buoys are available to keep

Meritt Thomas/Unsplash

Wouter Naert/Unsplash

Coral reef fish

boat anchors from damaging the reef. The outer reefs are more dangerous and less charted; many areas are simply labeled “numerous coral heads or patch reefs.”

Tip: Get a copy of Captain Freya Rauscher’s Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast.

Stop 1: Lighthouse Reef

Estimated mileage: 35 NM

Located about 50 miles southeast of Belize City, Lighthouse Reef (LHR) forms a shallow sandy lagoon with a depth that runs between 2 and 6 meters. The big draw is the infamous Blue Hole, a giant marine sinkhole about 1,000 feet across and 400 feet deep that was made famous

by Jacques Cousteau, who declared it one of the world’s top five scuba diving sites. In all, 60+ dive sites are within the vicinity of Lighthouse Reef, including several shipwrecks.

To the southeast of the Blue Hole, you find Half Moon Caye Natural Monument, a small island that’s been a designated bird sanctuary since 1924 and a marine protected area since 1981. The main attraction is the unique flora and fauna. The orange-flowered ziricote tree provides a habitat that supports one of the only red-footed booby colonies in the western Caribbean. In turn, the booby colony supports the forest’s stability by providing guano as fertilizer. It’s also a habitat for the endemic leaf-toed gecko and anole

lizard, and the southeastern part of the island is a prime sea turtle nesting ground from May to November.

A handful of “eco-resorts” on LHR, primarily on Long Caye, offer accommodations ranging from rustic to really rustic. For lunch or dinner, try the Itza Resort, where you can dine on a “thatch-covered open-air deck with sweeping views of the Caribbean Ocean and nearby Half Moon Caye.” Call ahead.

Stop 2: South Water Caye

Estimated mileage: 42 NM

The main island in the 118,000-acre South Water Caye Marine Reserve (SWCMR),

Coral reef starfish

Belize Blue Hole

Half Moon Beach at Lighthouse Reef

Falco Ermert/Flickr.

Constanza S Mora/ Unsplash

Wikimedia Commons

South Water Caye is just one of several small cays in the area offering unsurpassed snorkeling, diving, beaches and laid-back charm. Man O’ War Caye, Tobacco Caye, Coco Plum Caye, Thatch Caye and the Pelican Cays are nearby and easily accessible.

Considered one of the most biodiverse marine areas in Belize, SWCMR consists of “pristine reefs, mangroves, palm-fringed islands, turquoise waters and seagrass beds that provide a home to tropical reef fish, rays, seabirds, manatees and crocodiles,” according to the website Anywhere Belize.

South Water Caye is known for its dense, red mangroves that populate coral outcrops and the rare diamond-shaped reefs known as “faro” reefs. If the beach is more your speed, the island’s southern portion is well known for sandy shorelines, especially Pelican Beach.

For landlubbers, Blue Marlin Beach Resort and Pelican Beach Resorts are located at either end of South Water Caye, both offering snorkeling, kayaking, bird watching or just plain island-style relaxation, complete with Belizean cocktails and cuisine.

Stop 3: Glover's Reef

Estimated mileage: 13 NM

The 86,000-acre Glover’s Reef Marine Reserve is a popular destination for diving, snorkeling, kayaking, fly fishing and sailing. Since the atoll is only 18 miles long and 6 miles wide, you can easily explore it all in a day. Don’t miss the Caiman Trench, the deepest ocean drop in the world, plunging 15,000 feet. Prized for its amazing biodiversity, the waters of the atoll’s lagoon are home to three species of sea turtles, eight species of sharks and rays, hundreds of species of fish, and vast vistas and varieties of coral.

After a day of nautical adventure, you can relax and recharge at one of the area’s “off the grid” retreats, such as Isla Marisol Resort or Off the Wall Dive Center & Resort, both five-star PADI properties offering instruction, guided trips, snorkeling, fishing, kayaking, accommodations, libations and all mod cons to adventurers and aquatic aficionados. If you prefer something less strenuous, Off the Wall owners Jim and

invite visitors to kick back and spend time “walking barefoot on the pearly white sand beaches, searching for shells, or cooling off in the warm waters of the lagoon.”

Kendra

Tip: Bluewater Sailing website notes that “the channel into Glover’s Reef is easily followed in good light. The entrance on the south end of the atoll is wide and calm, and a wonderful anchorage lies just inside this southern entrance through the reef. The reefs are healthy and teeming with fish of many species. Spear fishing is allowed on the southern edge of the reef, while the reefs in the conservation zone offer spectacular viewing.”

Stop 4: Placencia

Estimated mileage: 32 NM

Placencia Peninsula’s narrow, 16-mile strand offers silvery sand beaches on the Caribbean side and mangrove-fringed lagoons on the western side that are inhabited by manatees, marine turtles and saltwater crocodiles. At its southern tip you find the town of Placencia, a tranquil

San Pedro Beach, Ambergris Caye Wikimedia Commons

Schofield

place to spend time exploring.

As the gateway to the southern part of the BBRRS, Placencia is a popular destination for sensational snorkeling and dramatic diving. The town of around 1,800 permanent residents has several marinas where you can restock and recharge, as well as more than a dozen options if you want to lay your head on dry land for a night or two — everything from modest B&B-style accommodations to high-end resort properties. Hungry after a day on the reefs? Try Muna Rooftop Restaurant & Bar at The Ellysian or Mare by Coppola at the Turtle Inn for upscale Belizean cuisine and super-fresh seafood.

Side trip: A few miles up the road from Placencia is Seine Bight, a small village that’s home to the Garifuna, a West Indian native population who’ve occupied various parts of the Caribbean for 400+ years, eventually founding Seine Bight nearly 200 years ago. The villagers still practice indigenous drumming, singing and dancing, and traditional dress is worn for the dances, including unique masks and headdresses. Check out Sam’s Disco, where there’s dancing to punta and reggae, or Wamasa, a nightclub with live entertainment on weekends. Garifuna artisans are also renowned for their intricate carvings of indigenous animals and other fine crafts. ml

Glen Murphy/Wikimedia Commons

Brain coral

LET’S RAISE A GLASS

TO

Rum, Reggae & Spies!

BY SUSAN ELNICKI WADE

IN MY QUEST FOR THE BEST CARIBBEAN RUM, I’ve sampled a few. From Appleton to Ron Zacapa rum, my tastebuds have celebrated the luscious flavors borne from fermenting sugarcane into smooth amber elixirs.

In the pursuit of rum perfection, I’ve noticed that a well-designed label can give clues about what awaits inside the bottle. Many simply present the distiller’s name and location where a rum derives its unique flavors. But it’s hard to resist the image of a crusty old captain, pirate ship or sassy sea wench when pouring a hefty splash into a tumbler.

Curious rum aficionados like myself are always eager to hear the back story behind the libation in our hand. Like a slice of pineapple or lime wedged upon the rim of a glass, the history of a rum’s journey from the Caribbean to our lips can make a cocktail taste even sweeter.

I recently stumbled upon the extraordinary tale that intertwines Jamaican rum, worldclass musicians and James Bond. To fully appreciate this unique saga, follow my lead and shake up a GoldenEye Cocktail (see recipe on p. 33) to sip while the story unfolds.

Ian Fleming

THE SPY WHO LOVED JAMAICA

Our story begins in 1939, when a London journalist named Ian Fleming joined the British Navy Intelligence Service. His unit specialized in military espionage and covert plans to thwart German aggression in Europe and the Caribbean.

During World War II, Fleming was engaged in Operation GoldenEye, and in 1942 he was sent to investigate suspicions about Nazi submarines in the Caribbean. During this deployment, he became enamored with Jamaica and vowed to live there some day.

When the war was over, Fleming returned to Jamaica and bought 15 acres of plush land that was once used as a donkey racetrack. In 1945, he built a house not far from the banana port town of Oracabessa Bay, and the seaside property became Fleming’s tropical sanctuary where he could focus on writing and the discrete task of taking previously tight-held secrets into a public, fictional genre.

He named the estate GoldenEye as a tribute to his Navy service and began working on a book that evolved around the dashing spy and Special Agent 007, James Bond. This protagonist would emerge as the amalgamation of agents he’d met during his maritime service.

As an avid birdwatcher, Fleming took the name for his lead character from American ornithologist James Bond, an expert on Caribbean birds, who wrote the definitive field guide, Birds of the West Indies.

Fleming’s first spy novel, Casino Royale, was published in 1952. This book and all 13 in the James Bond series were written in his bedroom at GoldenEye. Three of them — Dr. No, Live and Let Die, and The Man with the Golden Gun — take place in Jamaica.

Photos courtesy of GoldenEye Fleming: Wikimedia Commons

Ian Fleming Villa

STIR IT UP

Not only did the breezy island life at GoldenEye inspire Fleming’s novels, but so did his fetching neighbor, Blanche Blackwell. She was the muse who helped spark his creative drive. The Blackwell family had lived in Jamaica since 1625, exporting bananas and coconuts and crafting a distinctive brand of rum.

Blanche’s son Chris Blackwell grew up between England and Jamaica, and in his childhood spent a good amount of time with Fleming. In 1954, after Blackwell got booted from an elite British school for rebellious behavior, he came back to the island to get involved in the family rum business. Contrary to plan, he followed his instincts and made a career

Fleming Villa memorabilia

Chris Blackwell

Photos courtesy of GoldenEye

View from The Fleming Villa

choice that would dramatically alter the global music scene.

For a while, he kicked around working as the aide-de-camp to the governor and as a waterskiing instructor. But after hearing the blind pianist Lance Heywood play at the Half Moon Resort, Blackwell recorded the musician, and in 1959 he launched a music studio called Island Records. In sync with his unconventional style, it became known for discovering and nurturing innovative performers who had been shrugged off or overlooked by bigger record labels.

Island Records introduced the world outside of the Caribbean to Bob Marley and the Wailers and Jamaican reggae music, showcasing island culture and universal struggles of indigenous people. It launched British bands such as Traffic, Bad Company, Emerson, Lake & Palmer, Roxy Music, King Crimson and Fairport Convention. It also cultivated artists such as Cat Stevens, Brian Eno, Grace Jones, Marianne Faithfull, Tom Waits and the Irish band, U2.

Throughout his success in the music industry, Blackwell remained in contact with Fleming and his projects. When the first Bond movie, Dr. No, was filmed in Jamaica in 1962, Blackwell was hired as a location scout and consulted on the soundtrack. Sir Sean Connery, whom Blackwell had met during the filming of Dr. No, remained a friend until his passing in 2020. Using a family recipe, Blackwell launched his boutique rum in 2008 that is distributed around the globe.

Live and Let Die was filmed in 1973 on the Blackwell Estate, which now includes The Fleming Villa. Scenes from the movie were shot near GoldenEye, Blackwell’s luxury hotel in Jamaica. The latest Bond flick, No Time to Die, returns to the exquisite Jamaican backdrop of GoldenEye, and the production team was treated to a supply of Blackwell Rum for inspiration while filming. ml

TO

CELEBRATE

GOLDENEYE COCKTAIL

INGREDIENTS:

1 part Blackwell Rum 1 part pineapple juice Lime or pineapple wedge

INSTRUCTIONS: Shake together and strain into a chilled cocktail glass Garnish with lime or pineapple wedge

TOASTY TODDY

INGREDIENTS:

3 parts Blackwell Rum 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1 ½ parts fresh lemon juice 6 parts boiling water

60 YEARS OF JAMES BOND, a special bottle of Blackwell Rum has been released, along with a new memoir by Chris Blackwell, The Islander: My Life in Music and Beyond. If you’re cruising around Jamaica this winter, cue up some Bob Marley tunes, open a bottle of Blackwell’s 007 Rum, and shake it (don’t stir) with pineapple juice and ice to create the GoldenEye Cocktail. And if you’re nestled in at home in a colder climate and dreaming about the Caribbean, we suggest watching a Bond flick and warming up with the Toasted Toddy. To view

INSTRUCTIONS: Add all ingredients to a mug, except for the water Pour in the boiling water Stir well to blend Photos courtesy of GoldenEye; Bond: Flikr

NOVELTY BOATS

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

Discover the latest and greatest amphibious creations

Just when we think we’ve seen it all, 21st century technological innovations continue to amaze us. As new discoveries arise in the maritime world, we witness the power of human creativity and desire to go to uncharted territories to achieve the unknown.

From the first person to build a wooden watercraft to travel across sea, to modern innovations of powerful cars and vessels, inventors like Nikola Tesla and Elon Musk would be thrilled by what some of the world’s most creative water-lovers have birthed. Some are repurposed boats turned into inanimate objects, some are floating automobiles, and others are designed for high-speed performance — all are a sight to see. Check out the following novelty boats and unique designs from across the globe.

NOVELTY CREATIONS

Hot Tub Boat

Purchasing a hot tub for your home is ultimate luxury living, but have you ever considered a hot tub for the boat? How about an all-in-one hot tub boat? This amazing invention is like none other, as you can cruise around at a gentle speed of 5 mph and lounge in hot bubbles powered-by a 24-volt electric motor. The throttle is submerged in the tub, so even the captain never gets cold.

Top photo: Hydro Attack Queenstown; bottom, Hot Tub Boat: Cameron Zegers Photography

Shipwright Adam Karpenske was inspired to create Hot Tub Boats from his time seeking warmth while living on a houseboat in the cold, wet winters of Seattle. His business launched in 2012, and guests can visit Hot Tub Rentals Seattle to explore Lake Union while relaxing in warm bubbly style. hottubboats.com

Pirate Ship Houseboat — SurrendertheBooty Houseboat rentals are popular among travelers, and liveaboards are dream vessels for many boaters. But when it comes to purchasing houseboats, how about a giant pirate ship-turned-houseboat for sale? Located along Virginia waters, retired firefighter Dan Corder’s Pirate Ship Houseboat, Surrender the Booty, is on the market for only $49,000.

He found the abandoned ship at Lewisetta, VA, marina and revived it with a twist — a pirate makeover. Corder is no stranger to repurposing old boats into oddities, as this is his 33rd pirate boat to date. The houseboat comes with a fully equipped galley and decorations of a full “skeleton crew” (human-sized skeletons dressed in pirate garb) and of course, a classic parrot or two.

Cruisin’ Tikis Tiki Bar Boat

You may have noticed a tiki-decorated boat cruising along a city harbor packed with a bachelorette or birthday party booze cruise, but you’ve probably never seen a tiki boat quite like this one. The circular-shaped barge fits up to six passengers and a captain and looks like a lively bar on a floating island. Book a cruise at one of the many locations across the United States. cruisintikis.com

CruisinTikis.com

UNIQUE PERFORMANCE VESSELS

WaterCar

Did you ever imagine you would see the day when cars drive on water? Well, get a load of the incredible amphibious vehicle, WaterCar. Established in 1999 out of Fountain Valley, CA, WaterCars were built for speed on both land and sea. The latest Humvee-style model, the H1-Panther, is the fifth and most advanced model to date. WaterCar CEO Jim Riley says, “Since 1999, we’ve built a few prototypes, a Camaro-style amphibious vehicle, and then the 2010 Python — which set the Guinness World Record for the fastest amphibious vehicle.”

“We were still looking for a high-speed reliable and easily maintained commercial model. The first Panther was released in 2013, becoming the highest-selling, high-speed amphibious vehicle in history. It was a fast and fun vehicle, in many ways a sports car on the water,” says Riley.

In 2020, after a lot of inquiries, the company decided to investigate building a more utility-type 4x4 all-terrain vehicle that could withstand brutal conditions from the roughest roads to the most challenging water conditions, thus the H1-Panter was born. The Chevroletpowered gas engine allows highway speed on land and 35 knots on the water. The base price is $465,000. watercar.com

Seabreacher

The suspenseful music from the movie Jaws might play in your head when watching the Seabreacher zoom by, but have no fear — it’s just a unique vessel that looks like a hungry shark. Based out of New Zealand, this company’s watercraft design is a twist of marine mammals mixed with a fighter jet, and customers can choose from a selection of customizations. Models include Shark style X, Killer Whale Y and Dolphin Z. seabreacher.com

Jet Capsule

This innovative, compact yacht looks like a mini spaceship floating on water. Made with a cutting-edge hydro propulsion system, the Jet Capsule is a small oval shaped, enclosed contraption, but is large enough to fit a group of people who can sleep aboard in comfort. It’s equipped with single or dual engines ranging from 370 to 740 horsepower and interior designs are fully customizable.

The Italy-based company was established in 2012 with a mission to bring the same level of luxury in the best road limousines and modern aircrafts to the water. jetcapsule.it

HISTORIC NOVELTY STORIES

Josh Pyke’s Guitar Boat

One of the most interesting novelty boats to date, the Guitar Boat, was built for musician Josh Pyke’s 2008 music video “Make You Happy.” Soon after the instrument-shaped watercraft cruised down Sydney Harbour in the video shoot, it became quite the mystery as it seemed to disappear, and the musician himself led a campaign to find it. Legend says the

Hydro Attack Queenstown

Courtesy of WaterCar

boat was sold to a charity auction on eBay, and Josh Pyke never sailed it again.

Moby,The Whale-Shaped Boat

Meet Moby, the 62-ton whale-shaped boat with a grinning face bow and tail stern pointing to the sky. Built by Tom McClean, an adventurer who set records for solo rowing and yachting voyages across the Atlantic, the 65-foot long whale craft has been docked for quite some time along the shores of Scotland at Loch Nevis near Fort William. Moby once had big plans to set sail across the Atlantic back in the 1990s, and McClean

resurrected this dream in 2016 with plans to cruise the boat from Scotland to New York. Moby hasn’t made this trip yet, but we hope one day to see McClean achieve his quest to conquer the Atlantic in a whale-shaped ship.

Christian Bohlin’s Duck Boat

In May of 2011, Swedish shipbuilder Christian Bohlin sailed a giant duckshaped ship across Stockholm Harbor, turning heads along the way. The unique waterfowl design is quite eye-catching with its giant green head and yellow beak above a brown body/cabin lined with heart-shaped windows. On the outside, the captain steers from the open upper deck behind the duck’s head. Inside, you find a kitchenette, two sleeping cots and a sauna.

Theodore Tugboat TOO

Based on the Canadian hit children’s television series Theodore Tugboat, this life-size replica was built in Dayspring, Nova Scotia, in 2000. It voyaged along the eastern seaboard to Tampa Bay and then north to the Great Lakes. Theodore TOO was often docked in Halifax, Nova Scotia, where its main focus was maritime philanthropy. It became the ambassador of the U.S. National Safe Boating Council

and mascot to the U.S. Coast Guard in tall ship events. In 2021, the tugboat left Halifax Harbour to further its philanthropic role in the maritime industry by becoming an ambassador for Swim Drink Fish and the Great Lakes Guide.

Wooden F50 Ferrari Boat

Because the main mode of transportation in Venice, Italy, is cruising the canals via boat rather than roads via car, it’s no wonder craftsman Livio De Marchi invented a wooden Ferrari boat to get around. Made out of pine, the Ferrari F50 weighs 2,000 lbs. and is just as suave as the automobile. In the past, Marchi has designed a few wooden car boats including a Mercedes and a Volkswagen Beetle, which are now located in the United States.

NautiLimo

This Barbie pink Caddy boat was once a novelty smash hit along the Florida Keys. Created and operated by Captain Joe Fox, this Cadillac-style nautical stretch limo boat would take groups of up to six on sunset and sightseeing cruises, snorkeling trips and a cruise to Robbie’s Marina to feed the tarpons. The company was popular for hosting weddings, bachelorettes and birthdays. Unfortunately as of 2022, this experience closed, and at 85+ years old, Captain Joe sold his boats. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/NoveltyBoats

Simon Stone

Courtesy of Daniel Boud

William/Flickr

REGGAE

REGGAE VS CALYPSO MUSIC

WHICH TYPE OF TUNES WILL MAKE YOUR BOATING PLAYLIST?

BY LIYANA IDO

HISTORY & MUSICAL ROOTS

Created in the late 1960s, reggae is intimately linked with the culture of Jamaica and Rastafari. Reggae was influenced by Rastafari ritual drumming and provided an avenue for this genre to enter some countries. Upbeat ska music developed from American R&B, mento, and calypso, and became popular among young Jamaicans seeking a musical identity after the country gained independence in 1962. Eventually, ska and its slower, more romantic descendant rocksteady gave way to reggae.

In the 1600s, enslaved Africans in Trinidad, stripped of their cultures and languages, developed calypso to mock their masters and communicate with each other in French Creole. Modern calypso began in the early 1800s as a combination of disparate genres, such as French Creole belair, and became closely linked with Trinidadian enslaved people’s adoption of Carnival.

Beaufort, NC Main: Dori Arrington.; Location: Cape Lookout National Seashore, Angi English; History: Dori Arrington; Boating: Robert Magina; Activities: Dori Arrington. Fernandina Beach, Main: Deremer Studios LLC; Location: Amelia Island Horseback Rider, Patrick Farrell; History: Plaza Historic State Park, Florida DEP ; Boating: Skybeing; Activities: Fort Clinch State Park, Scott Barnett.

FAMOUS MUSICIANS

True to the genre’s origins, three big names in reggae are all Jamaican. Bob Marley is the most iconic reggae artist, known globally as a symbol of Jamaican culture and Rastafari. He used his stardom to advocate for democratic social reform, cannabis reform, and Pan-Africanism. Burning Spear is one of the longeststanding roots reggae artists, emerging in the 1970s and still touring today. His music often has spiritual and black pride messages. Yellowman rose to fame in the 1980s as a musician, songwriter and DJ on the island, and became the first dancehall artist to be signed to a major American label.

Attila the Hun and Roaring Lion left Trinidad for the United States in the 1930s, both becoming pioneers of spreading calypso beyond its birthplace. Attila pivoted to a career in politics, while Roaring Lion composed songs such as “Ugly Woman” that are still performed today. Lord Invader, one of America’s most successful calypsonians, arrived in New York soon after, ultimately winning the rights to his hit “Rum and Coca-Cola” in court and touring the United States, Britain and Europe.

GOES WELL WITH

The laid-back island vibe and steel drum beat of reggae lends itself well to lounging on the beach, relaxing with cannabis, and sipping on a cold Jamaican Red Stripe. If you like non-alcoholic refreshments, try sorrel tea, an iced Jamaican tea brewed with dried hibiscus flowers and spices.

Calypso has an energetic, upbeat beat that’s hard not to groove to. It pairs perfectly with cocktail parties and dance floors – and of course cocktails. Grab some Trinidadian rum (Angostura is popular) and try your hand at a batch of spiced rum punch.

GOING GLOBAL

In 1968, the first bona fide reggae records “Nanny Goat” and “No More Heartaches” were released. Toots and the Maytals also put out their single “Do the Reggay,” the first popular song to use the word “reggae.” Global artists couldn’t resist reggae’s unique beats, with Johnny Nash and the Beatles releasing reggae-influenced tracks the same year. Reggae’s distinct funk allows it to be timeless and recognizable, no matter the era.

In the 1920s and ‘30s, calypso became a trusted way of spreading news in Trinidad, with politicians and journalists debating the lyrics. Double entendre was used to make statements about topics like the colonial government while dodging aggressive censorship efforts by the United States. Famous calypsonians began recording in America in the late ‘30s, but pop artist Harry Belafonte’s 1956 album “Calypso” made it a worldwide craze.

CALYPSO

DINGHIES

Small Boats with a Big Value

BY BOB ARRINGTON

Few items carried aboard your boat, embody the freedom of the cruising lifestyle more than your dinghy, or “tender” if you prefer. These often abused and rarely waxed little boats are a valuable part of cruising adventures. They allow you to moor or anchor out, enjoying the peace and quiet of a secluded anchorage, yet still take advantage of amenities on shore.

They take you on excursions through back water, narrow channels, and mangrove forests, too small or shallow for your primary vessel. And if you have a fourlegged friend on board, you know not only the importance of getting them to shore, but oh how they love a dinghy ride.

They can even make stays at a marina more enjoyable. For instance, Dolphin Marina in Harpswell, ME, provides guests aboard boats in the marina with charts showing a half a dozen dinghy trips you can take around the islands of Casco Bay to scenic coves and remote islands that would be impossible to get the big boat into. And if you plan to cruise to the

Bahamas, Caribbean or remote destinations, you need dependable transportation to shore.

The most important feature of a dinghy is that it must be easy to use. If it requires too much effort to launch and operate, you will be reluctant to anchor out as often as you might like. Ease of use is determined by several factors, such as whether you must inflate the dinghy, mount the engine, or need three people and a crane to lower it into the water. Many of these choices are determined by the size and configuration of your boat, but regardless of your boat’s size or your budget, you can create a setup that’s easy to use.

The choices for how and where to carry a dinghy fall into a few basic categories. If you do not have the option of a cranestyle lifting device, you may be limited by the size and weight of your dinghy, but that does not mean you are relegated to the equivalent of a rubber toy boat. Efficient davit systems can be mounted on mediumsize swim platforms. These accommodate a

variety of dinghy styles, both rigid and inflatable, and allow you to keep the engine mounted to the dinghy.

Also, hydraulic lift systems can carry a tender off your stern, but your transom must be capable of carrying the device, and your boat should be heavy enough to stay balanced with that much weight aft of center. If your boat meets those requirements, the hydraulic lifts are about as easy to use as it gets.

Another option some cruisers choose is to tow a dinghy. While I’ll admit to having done this in protected waters, it’s generally not a safe practice. There are too many documented cases of towing components fouling up props and leaving boaters stranded. If you travel to the islands, you will see many cruisers towing dinghies, but please use extreme caution if you choose to do this. Learn where and how to safely attach the dinghy to your boat, and if there is any threat of rough seas, retrieve the dinghy immediately and secure it to the mother ship.

Dori Arrington

Dinghies come in a variety of hull styles and materials, including plankreinforced fabric bottoms, high-pressure inflatable bottoms, and rigid hulls of fiberglass or aluminum. In general, soft-bottom styles are limited to what they can do and endure, even with a high-pressure floor with a keel.

If you intend to transport serious loads of supplies and people, a rigid hull is a must. Its durability is also important if you are cruising in the tropics, where you are as likely to land on a beach as tie up at a dock. Rigid bottoms can be part of a fully rigid boat, but more often they are connected to an inflatable top tube and called “rigid inflatable boats,” or RIBs. These have become the ubiquitous tender of choice for most cruisers. You get durability and stability from the rigid hull, and buoyancy and lightweight from the inflatable top tubes. The top tubes are much gentler on the sides and finish of your boat when tied to it.

RIB’s hull bottoms have been primarily fiberglass, but aluminum hulls are gaining market share with even lighter weight then fiberglass and more durable for beach landings. The inflatable tubes come in a range of materials, including PVC, coated neoprene and Hypalon, which are widely considered the best material for the inflatable parts of a dinghy.

A well-built dinghy will provide many years of service, but it won’t last forever. A sign of a good-quality RIB dinghy is the

ease with which it can be serviced and even re-tubed when necessary.

An example of a feature that could affect serviceability is the fuel tank’s type and location. Separate fuel tanks carried in dedicated compartments are easier to inspect or replace but have limited carrying capacity; built-in fuel tanks may carry more fuel and be better balanced, but may also be difficult or impossible to repair without completely un-assembling the dinghy.

It used to be your only choice of power for a dinghy was a gasoline powered outboard engine, however innovative

companies have been actively introducing clean burning propane powered internal combustion engines, and most recently electric motors with impressive power and range.

When shopping, it’s best to purchase from a dealer that in addition to sales, performs complete service on the dinghy and engine. A high-quality dealer will be willing to visit your boat to determine if a particular model can be carried, launched and retrieved safely. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/Dinghies

blueorangestudio

Dori Arrington

DISCOVER LAKE TEXOMA, TX

BY CLAIRE RUPPERT

About 90 minutes north of Dallas awaits a destination with so many nooks and coves to explore that boaters are often awestruck by the hidden gems for cruising in the Lone Star State. Aptly named for its location on the border of Texas and Oklahoma, Lake Texoma was created in 1944 by damming the Red River and constructing the Denison Dam.

Sandy beaches (such as Island View Beach on Preston Peninsula), ample fishing opportunities and endless water activities are only some of the attractions that bring 6 to 9 million visitors to Lake Texoma annually.

The lake is also bordered by two state parks and is part of the Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge, which offers a rustic dimension to your lake vacation. Campsites, hiking and

horseback tours are widespread waterfront activities.

What else makes this lake special? Lake Texoma is one of a few freshwater ecosystems with a self-sustaining population of striped bass, earning the lake the title of Striper Capitol of the World. Beside striped bass, anglers can also catch blue and channel catfish, a variety of bass (white, largemouth, spotted and smallmouth), black and white crappies, and bluegills. More than 50 largemouth bass competitions are held each year at Lake Texoma.

If fishing doesn’t float your boat, you can find plenty of other activities at Lake Texoma. In Eisenhower State Park, guided boat tours give guests the chance to explore the lake and observe wildlife, as well as join other park ranger-lead activities.

Lori Elfers

Boat rentals, from kayaks and jet skis to pontoons, are available. Water Wings of Texoma offers hydro boarding lessons.

Many activities in towns surrounding the lake are popular with locals and visitors alike. Lake Texoma State Park has two 18-hole golf courses. In Kingston, OK, choose between two popular golf courses, and treat yourself to great dining options and the Texoma Casino. On the Texas side of the lake, you can feed petting zoo animals and flamingos in Gainesville at the Frank Buck Zoo. Two wineries and distilleries in the nearby towns of Denison and Sherman let visitors sample Texas craft beverages. ml

WHERE TO DOCK

Eisenhower Yacht Club 903-463-3999

Eisenhower Yacht club is a familyowned and operated, full-service marina in Eisenhower State Park that offers boat rentals and has slips up to 55 feet.

Catfish Bay Marina 580-564-2307

This full-service marina on the Oklahoma side of the lake is home to the largest floating fuel dock on the lake and a sizable convenience store. The marina offers covered boat slips as well as boat rentals and claims the best striper guides on the lake.

Marina Del Rey 580-564-7212

Complete with campsites and Belly Flop Restaurant, Marina Del Rey is in Kingston, OK. The marina supplies only non-ethanol fuel, and the Barbay Pub hosts live music.

WHERE TO DINE

Caney Creek Beer Garden & Resort 580-564-3223

If you’re looking for casual meals, Caney Creek Beer Garden is the spot. With a full bar, live music on weekends, a pool table and a kitchen that serves three meals a day, you might just never leave.

Sneaky Tiki Restaurant & Brewery 580-931-9960

Part of the Lake Texoma Lodge Resort, Sneaky Tiki is a tropical themed steakhouse and live music venue. The menu, featuring steaks and fresh seafood, is famous for Royal Red shrimp that taste like lobster. Outdoor and poolside seating is sheltered under thatched umbrellas, giving your lake getaway a beachy vibe.

The Lakeview Steakhouse 903-786-2968

Overlooking the lake, The Lakeview Steakhouse is Tanglewood Resort’s fine dining room that is open to the public. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner with a focus on steak, pasta and seafood. A wine list and craft cocktails pair nicely with your meal.

The Point Restaurant 903-464-0989

Located on the peninsula at Grandpappy Point Resort & Marina, the views from The Point Restaurant almost rival the food. Re-opened in 2019, The Point (2.0) has a variable menu. American classics and grilled food with a side of fried pickles satiates some diners, while others opt for a farm-to-table cut of prime rib or steak, as well as Sunday brunch.

Fishing on Lake Texoma

Sandra Kent

Denison Dam

robertemaurer

PonderFoto / Getty Images

Frank Buck Zoo

Rob

Albright

Eisenhower State Park Virgo Moon

There’s Nothing “Lesser” about the Antilles

ARTICLE AND PHOTOS BY KIA KOROPP

CRUISING THE CARIBBEAN is a unique and distinct destination with steel drums and polka sticks, rum punch and coconuts, lobster barbecues and beach bonfires, and ready-made friends at every anchorage. Having already spent 10 years cruising the Pacific, Indian and Southern Atlantic Oceans, our diverse experiences brought us to the Lesser Antilles.

Sailing into the Caribbean was entirely different for us, as it felt like entering a cruiser’s candy land, where everything was as stimulating and enticing as candy tossed out at a Christmas parade. For us, the Lesser Antilles was like a prettily packaged, sugarcoated apple, dipped in strong local rum.

We focused the season on the Lesser Antilles, having learned that a longer time in a designated area was preferable to a quicker run through twice the destinations. Our entry point into the Caribbean from the eastern Atlantic was Antigua. As the epicenter of the super yacht industry, the

Saltwhistle Bay, Mayreau

island was as juxtaposed as you could get to our past cruising grounds. Super yachts were lined-up by the dozens, sparkling and shiny and locked-up tight. You could hop across the decks of tightly packed boats to join an endless stream of dusk-to-dawn parties, should you choose.

We passed on the parties and engaged in Antiqua’s other side and discovered a beautiful, relaxed island that ran on long-gone days of the slowly churning cogs of island life. We dove in the morning, relaxed in the afternoon and socialized on the beach in the evening. The highlight of Antiqua

John holding up the evening meal, caught fresh for the barbecue

“Land Ho!” Arrival into Antigua after the Atlantic transit was to see the richness and variety of the marine ecosystem. Soft corals were vibrant and plentiful, hard corals young but healthy, and the marine life diverse and abundant. For all the talk of bleached reefs, diving in Antigua was an exciting example that reefs can revive themselves, given time and care.

From Antigua we entered Barbuda and spent a few weeks in the relative isolation of Antiqua’s sister island. Rather than the lush mountainous landscape of Antigua, Barbuda is a large low-lying atoll with fine white sand and miniature pink shell beaches with strong winds that blow across her shores and provide perfect wind-sport conditions. Isolated from the local population, our days were filled in the company of other cruisers. Kitesurfing, windsurfing and waterskiing afternoons flowed into early evening potluck meals that flowed into late night beach bonfires.

Superyachts crowd the marina in English Harbour, Antigua

Barbuda was exactly the Caribbean scene I’d envisioned. Several other boats were travelling with children, and it was our first time in 10 years in which we — a cruising family — were the norm. Rather than dragging our kids around, they were dragging us around to their numerous social engagements. They had playdates and sleepovers, snorkeling excursions and fishing trips, and numerous activities that involved being towed behind dinghies at high speed.

Barbuda was a kid’s all-inclusive free-for-all holiday with an edge of the semi-feral where homemade forts contained rusty machetes, discarded lighters and all sort of cast-off debris. No kids camp could ever complete with the freedom of play and exploration of nature offered here. Barbuda could have been home for the season. I haven’t seen my kids happier, busier, more manic and more exhausted in a long time. I haven’t felt less hassled, less in demand and more relaxed either. But it was time to up-anchor and get moving before our chain turned to rust.

Our route would take us from Antigua to Barbuda back to Antigua before sailing north to St. Maarten to get south to St. Vincent. Our track has never been a linear one, and well-laid plans are often tossed out at a whim. This time, our schedule was abandoned for the social extravaganza awaiting us in St. Maarten, where all the businesses were fully operational, and the pubs were drawing in crowds with silly happy hour prices. We were pulled into the fray by fellow cruisers who lie in wait for new victims to arrive, having already been pulled in themselves.

We filled our time outside the bars in excursions to the French side for carafes of chilled wine and window-shopping, trips to the airstrip to experience jumbo jets landing inches above our head, and rum cocktail in hand playing on beautiful white sand beaches with a pack of wild kids running amok for the afternoon. All of this to end up at a pub each evening sipping cold bottles of $1 beer. If Barbuda was the kid-version, St. Maarten was the adult-version of the Caribbean, where easy

Cruising friends, SV Korra, for the morning ritual of exploring local dive sites, English Harbour, Antigua

Sundowners around the evening bonfire, Spanish Point, Barbuda

The kids getting a windsurfing lesson at Coco Point, Barbuda

friendships were made and solidified over flowing amber liquid and the clock ticked toward each new happy hour.

From St. Maarten we headed south to the Grenadines, choosing it for the larger cruising area it offered. We spent the next three months in the pearl of the southern Caribbean, enjoying easy sailing between the 32 islands that lay within a 30-mile radius. The islands vary from the highprized aquamarine blues of the Tobago Cays to the dramatic volcanic black hues of St. Vincent.

We indulged in upmarket luxuries, ate at centuries-old plantation houses and sipped high-end cocktails from swings on a floating bar in Bequia, enjoyed the quiet isolation and beach bonfires on Mayreau, and explored the geographic and cultural richness of St. Vincent, where we trekked through dense forests to see magnificent waterfalls, hunted down Amerindian artifacts and watched pilot whales hunted down and dragged in from the sea.

By the end of June, it was time to settle down for hurricane season. We entered Carriacou and spent the next month enjoying the quaint anchorages of Grenada’s sister island. While the number of boats in Tyrell Bay was a shock after the relative isolation of SVG, we were also excited to re-enter a cruising hub.

Carriacou and Grenada are considered far enough south to be safe from hurricanes, and it is the main destination for cruisers staying in the southern Caribbean during the summer months.

As a well-established area for cruisers, many activities are organized to keep all ages entertained, ranging from exercise groups, kids camps, music venues, weekly

markets, and happy hour at a rotation of bars around the southern bays. It takes about a week to adjust to the continuous activity, two weeks before you fall into a set routine, and three weeks before you recognize it is time to slow down. Love it or hate it, Grenada is a cruiser’s home away from home.

When it comes to the Lesser Antilles,

Celebrating with fellow cruising friends at Bar One, Bequia

Amerindian petroglyphs in Buccament Bay, St. Vincent

there’s nothing “lesser” about this collection of smaller, more remote southern Caribbean islands. Reflecting on our past year, I now consider the region a place of endless entertainment for kids and adults alike. The islands are beautiful, the locals are welcoming, the wind constant and the water warm. It is fun, easy and entertaining in the worst and best of times. Most of all, I got to share with my kids the same waters that I grew up on and gave them a sample of the Caribbean I knew — complete with playful days in the sun and the slow pace of the island lifestyle. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/LesserAntilles

A pilot whale being dragged up on the beach after slaughter, West Coast St. Vincent

Braca and Ayla getting a lesson in grinding chocolate during the annual Chocolate Festival, Grenada

CHARTERING THE ANCIENT Canal du Midi

The scenic Canal du Midi in southern France is a must for boaters! Cruising this 300-year-old waterway, you will savor the slow easy French pace, passing medieval villages, country farms and vineyards in the heart of the Languedoc wine region. Le Boat, the largest charter boat operation in Europe, offers surprisingly affordable, entrylevel charters to this canal (and hundreds of other waterways). This historic passage is easy to navigate, scenic, fun and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Boating at a mellow 5 kilometers an hour aboard your vessel of 30-45 feet, the big excitement is passing through the lock system every few kilometers and arriving in ancient villages as your daily destination on your personal private cruise ship.

Don’t expect a luxury yacht holiday, however, because you are the crew and captain, you will be driving the boat or donning gloves to handle the dock lines in each “écluse” (lock). But it’s entertaining and affords a sense of freedom by chartering your own boat and navigating these centuries-old canals. Le Boat provides itineraries of how far you should voyage each day, but it’s truly up to you.

Our weeklong voyage started in Castelnaudary, a small, pretty village. Le Boat’s base in Castelnaudary is in the Grand Basin with a lovely view of the cathedral and village across the waterway, just a short walk over an old stone bridge to town. We could also see the majestic Pyrenees Mountains to our southwest along the French-Spanish border.

BY HEATHER BURKE

PHOTOS BY GREG BURKE

Bicycling along the Canal du Midi on scenic old towpaths from Carcassonne to Trebes

ARTICLE

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Fleur De Lis: iStock / ChrisGorgio

Cruising the ancient Canal du Midi that connects the Atlantic to the Mediterranean

Our first night, after our swift check in and orientation aboard our 40’ Horizon, we strolled to town, enjoyed local Languedoc wine and dinner at the Maison du Cassoulet sampling the specialty dish of slow-cooked white beans, tender pork and duck. Traditional “cassoulet” was a staple historically, especially in meager winters. Wow is it yummy and filling!

While returning over the old stone bridge back to our boat within the fleet, twinkling lights of the village reflected in the canal. We were excited to embark the next morning after a quiet comfy night’s sleep in the berth of our Horizon — Le Boat’s most modern vessel, equipped with a head, shower and full galley kitchen.

Before bed, I read about the fascinating history of the Canal du Midi. It was initially commissioned in 1516 by King Francis who hired Leonardo DaVinci to survey and create the route. Canal construction didn’t commence until 1667 and was completed in 1694, connecting 240 kilometers from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean with aqueducts, bridges and 91 locks to overcome the 620 feet height change in water level.

Designed as a trade route to shorten the otherwise long passage around the Iberian Peninsula, it’s also called the “Canal des Deux Mers” or canal of two seas. This vital trade

CANAL DU MIDI'S historic passage is easy to navigate, scenic, fun and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

La Cité of Carcassonne, a splendid castle with 52 spiraling turrets and imposing rampart walls

route for two centuries is now a meandering waterway for pleasure boaters as well as bicyclists riding the tow paths paralleling the canal.

On the first morning, our first lock was the most dramatic, departing Castelnaudary via a series of four locks that descend 9.5 meters in consecutive rushes of water. Captain Greg (my husband) and I established our duties: he’d drive into the narrow stone chamber (thankful for bow thrusters) while I secured lines to the lock shore, ready to adjust as the water floods out.

We traveled in tandem with two other boats, a Swiss family and a German couple. All were experienced boaters, so we developed an efficient rhythm of entering the locks sequentially, tying up, descending and exiting in order.

We cruised 15 locks by noon, then tied to a canal bank for the daily lunchtime lock closure of 12-1:00 p.m. We’d provisioned in Castelnaudary for the perfect picnic of flaky croissants, local ham and cheese, and a glass of Languedoc rosé on our boat’s top sun deck.

When the “Eclusier” (lock operator) returned to open the lock for us, we cruised the canal again with the occasional excitement of encountering oncoming boats in the narrow canal. Some boat captains were better at steering than others.

Our first day, we clocked 19 locks, 26 kilometers from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. We chose to stay overnight in Villesèque, a lovely anchorage with a few other boats tied to the shores. There was no marina, but we could walk to the tiny village over a charming stone bridge to see the church and the Sully elm tree planted in the square, among the last elms still alive in France.

We toasted to our first boat day with wine and cheese on our top deck, and invited over our boat neighbors, a delightful South African couple who proved Le Boat’s international appeal. He’d never boated before, but Le Boat states that you need no prior boating experience.

On Day 2 we cruised under sunny early October skies, loving the canopy of iconic Plane trees that drape some of the river. Unfortunately, much of the 40,000 Plane trees along the 240- kilometer stretch are diseased. Over 25% have the blight and are systematically being cut and burned, a huge undertaking. In parts of the river, trees are being removed, and replanting different species is underway, but it will take time to reestablish the majestic trees.

We arrived midday at the marina of Carcassonne and docked our boat well-positioned for exploring the city, with views of the waterfront park and tour boats coming and going across the Aude River.

Carcassonne exceeded my expectations, and I know now why it’s the second most visited tourist attraction in France (#1 is the Eiffel Tower). La Cité is a massive, fortified castle with 52 spiraling turrets and imposing double walls of rampart circling 3 kilometers perched above a medieval village.

We immediately rode our bikes, provided by our Le Boat charter, up to the fairytale citadel. You can also ride le Petite Train for 7 Euro. Crossing the castle drawbridge, we stepped in to La Cité and the 13th century. Be sure to pay to enter and appreciate the scale of the ramparts and the view of Carcassonne’s lower city and the Pyrenees to the west. Then stroll the maze of medieval cobblestone streets filled with shops and cafés. Lunch at Comte Roger was a chic culinary treat. A real luxury would be to stay at the five-star Hôtel de la Cité for an elegant evening in the illuminated castle.

Back in Carcassonne’s village, we found the grand pedestrian plazas marked by statues and fountains, boutiques, bakeries and casual bistros. It’s a fun city to explore on foot, with provisions aplenty for boaters.

Captain Greg driving from the sun deck helm of the boat under centuries-old stone bridges

Awaiting the flood into the lock while tying the boat and tending lines

Water cascading 9.5 meters upon the opening of this series of four locks

French pastries are the perfect boaters’ breakfast from boulangeries along the voyage

Turrets, chateau and vineyards cling to riverbanks along Castelnaudary

A delightful riverfront bistro for lunch in Trebes, reached by boat or bike

A SIP OR TWO AT LOCAL

The next morning, after fresh pain au chocolat, we hopped on our bikes to cycle to wineries. Greg guided us with his iPhone’s Komoot app, which maps out recommended hiking and biking routes. Château Auzais (est. 1872) was a wonderful tour and tasting. Our guide described the Occitanie wine’s bouquet as the convergence of Atlantic winds melding with the Mediterranean, as we sipped our favorite wine aptly named “La Cité des Ventes.”

Château de Pennautier was another fantastic estate. The gorgeous 1620 castle was home to the financier of the Canal du Midi construction — the same architect who designed Versailles. The château’s authentic furniture is gorgeous. Reserve an interior castle tour or just stroll the beautiful gardens. From here, we visited the sister winery and restaurant for a lovely lunch and wine tasting of Pennautier’s whites, rosés and reds.

We planned to boat the next day to Trèbes from Carcassonne but biked instead. The tow paths along the canal are ideal, in fact you can cycle faster than you can boat. We waved to fellow charter boats as we breezed by vineyards, farms, locks and bridges. Our return into Carcassonne

VINEYARDS

provided stunning views of two UNESCO World Heritage Sites at once — La Cité Castle and Canal du Midi.

Our return trip from Carcassonne to Castelnaudary only took a day through 24 locks and 30 kilometers with our now well-orchestrated rhythm of navigating locks. Our timing was good for the opening of most locks, and we traveled solo, as mid-October is end of the season the lock keeper told me. Summer is very busy on the canal, with boats in a queue for their turn in locks, and busier marinas.

As for the voyage, I recommend you plan one-way (for an upcharge) for the adventure of all new places along your voyage. The round trip had us retracing our passage, viewing previous scenery. We prefer the excitement of not knowing what’s around the next river bend and discovering new villages.

Also ascending the locks, going upriver, is more difficult. Captain Greg would let me off on a dock before the lock, I’d walk ahead and retrieve his tossed lines to secure the boat, we’d adjust during the rush of cascading water, then I’d board our boat when it came to the top of the full lock.

We felt a tremendous sense of accomplishment, having completed our week with success (i.e. no one fell in, no damage to boat). Our final day was leisurely aboard the boat, walking Castelnaudary’s village to a delightful bakery, to the cathedral and up the hill to the windmill, a wonderful 17th century Moulin with splendid views of Black Mountain and the French countryside. We biked along the canal, then relaxed on our boat’s sun deck viewing the Spanish peaks where we planned to ski in winter.

Our check out was quick but thorough. Le Boat’s fleet varies in age, so I was happy we’d opted for the newer spacious Horizon model. Funny, other couples posed for selfies by our boat preferring our more sophisticated-looking vessel for their posts. Some of the older boats are a bit banged up from lock passages, a testament to the “no license or experience required” policy of Le Boat.

We’re already browsing Le Boat’s itineraries: Italy, Germany, Scotland, Ireland, England, the Netherlands or Canada for our next charter adventure. ml

Vineyard tour at Château Auzais (est. 1872) where vintners bottle legendary Occitanie wine

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/CanalDuMidi

Bay St. Louis to Biloxi, MS

BY ELLEN HONEY

Pass Christian Harbor

GENTLE GULF BREEZES

carry the echoes of long-ago battles won and lost, the soulful tunes of travelers on Mississippi Blues Trail, and the enticing aromas from the multicultural flavors of coastal cuisine. The rich history of the Mississippi Coast is best experienced by spending time in the small communities dotting the 62 miles of shoreline.

Day 1: Bay St. Louis

Bay St. Louis to Pass Christian — 5 NM

This quaint seaside city overlooking its namesake bay has blossomed into an eclectic artist community whose residents might include descendants of Native Americans, rapacious pirates or Confederate generals.

Old Town is perfect for strolling. Start at the Mockingbird Café housed in an 1868 building boasting a rare three-sided gallery. They serve breakfast, brunch and lunch daily. The Belfast Breakfast drink—a cold brew blended with Jameson and Irish cream topped with whipped cream and cinnamon—may be a jump start or a sudden end to the day!

Blues Hall, built in 1894, is one of the stops on the acclaimed Mississippi Blues Trail. Lucky visitors might catch an open mic evening held on a stage that hosted noted gospel, jazz and R&B artists such as Etta James, Irma Thomas and Professor Longhair.

A stop at the Daiquiri Shak for one (or two) frozen drinks with names like 190 Octane might provide the courage to join other brave souls in the marsh mist for a Ghost Boat Tour by TheMysticGhostRide Company. Both the boat tour and the Ghost Cemetery Walking Pub Crawl are filled with eerie legends of the Bay told like never before

Where to Dock: Bay St. Louis Municipal Harbor

On the eastern side of Bay St. Louis lies the sleepy summer town of Pass Christian. Spend a few hours sunbathing on the softest, cleanest beach sand along the shoreline or biking the Pass Christian Scenic Drive Historic District. Majestic live oaks and historic dwellings, charming cottages and elegant mansions line the two-mile drive. Beach cottage eatery Sea Level serves burgers, dogs, seafood tacos and 45 snowball flavors at umbrellashaded picnic tables

Where to Dock: Pass Christian Harbor (slips on east and west side of the harbor)

Day 2: Gulfport

Pass Christian to Gulfport — 9 NM

Just a mild wind eastward is the tiny community of Long Beach whose colorful past includes pirate Captain Cleytus Pitcher who supposedly buried treasure near the border of Pass Christian in the early 1800s. According to local legend, his alcohol-fueled crew burned down his tree house with Pitcher still in it. Besides still-unearthed pirate riches, culinary treasures are discovered at Parrish’s Restaurant & Lounge. Menu choices from bouillabaisse to Wagyu tomahawk steaks and house made dessert creations are served against a spectacular sunset background.

Gulfport, the state’s second largest city and a working seaport since 1902, is now a world-class maritime terminal. A lively

downtown amid ancient live oak trees and dignified old homes with sagging porch swings offers plenty of snacking, sipping and shopping options.

Irresistible aromas lure you into Coast Roast Coffee & Tea for a rich brew from beans perfected in their 100-year-old roasters. For steaks, short ribs and seafood, head over to Rack House Steaks & Spirits. Bar-side are 30 wines by the glass and more than 100 bourbons, ryes, whiskeys and scotches. Many restaurants serve the state’s signature dessert: Mississippi Mud Pie, a gooey chocolate glaze over melted marshmallows on a crusty brownie base.

Fishbone Alley, a funky little side lane, backs up to a cluster of pubs. Local artists adorn the alley walls with colorful murals celebrating Gulfport’s thriving arts scene. To work off some of those earlier treats, wrestle with a one-arm bandit on Casino Row and stay for one of the many shows.

Where to Dock: Gulfport Municipal Marina/Bert Jones Yacht Harbor

Day 3: Biloxi

Gulfport to Biloxi — 11 NM

Much of the city’s return to its prehurricane(s) glitz and glamour is due to the gaming houses that range from backwater barges to deluxe resortentertainment complexes. The Casino Hopper Trolley stops at blackjack tables, city attractions, restaurants and beaches.

Kick off your morning with Crawfish

Yacht club near Bay St. Louis

Steve Brown/Flickr

Wikimedia Commons

Pass Christian Pineville Presbyterian Church

Étouffée-N-Grits with a biscuit and homemade strawberry jam at Fill-Up with Billups before heading out to the many museums.

The ceramics of George E. Ohr, self-proclaimed “mad potter of Biloxi,” and other innovative ceramic artists are displayed at the Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art. The small but colorfully engaging Mardi Gras Museum is housed in an historic antebellum building. The Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum’s extraordinary photographs chronicle the first Native American settlements through generations of immigrants, all part of the region’s melting pot culture.

For a genuine waterman experience

and a real shrimping expedition, The Biloxi Shrimping Trip highlights the fascinating world of sea creatures including catching, cooking and eating local shrimp.

Atlantic bottlenose dolphins like to race boats 12 miles south to the six barrier islands notoriously used by pirates, privateers and smugglers throughout most of their history. Hidden booty has been unearthed as recently as the 1980s. Cat, Horn, Petit Bois and Ship Islands are included in the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Cat Island contains bayous and marshes, home to several species of birds and alligators. USA Today named Ship Island "the hidden gem of Mississippi” for

its spectacular beaches. All facilities, including the storied Civil War era Fort Massachusetts, are open to boaters.

The largest, Horn Island, was a creative source and favorite subject of famed Gulf artist Walter Anderson. It’s worth an overnight on the hook to listen to the song of the cicadas and reflect on the enduring mystique of the Mississippi Coast.

Where to Dock: Biloxi Small Craft Harbor or Point Cadet Marina ml

Biloxi Beach

Wikimedia Commons

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/MississippiCoastline

Wikimedia Commons

Jones Park in Gulfport

Wikimedia Commons

Biloxi skyline

Gulfport Mississippi Aquarium

Isla de Tris Ship Monument

Discover Why Ciudad del Carmen Is Called THE PEARL OF THE GULF

BY CLAIRE RUPPERT

On the west side of the Yucatan Peninsula, Ciudad del Carmen was a fishing village on Isla del Carmen long before oil was discovered off the coast in the 1970s. Thanks to the growing petroleum industry, abundant fishing grounds and a bridge built to connect the island to the mainland, Ciudad del Carmen is now a seafood hotspot and thriving beach destination.

The town only takes up a small portion of the barrier island that separates the Gulf of Mexico from the country’s largest coastal lagoon, Laguna de Términos. The lagoon is an official Ramsar site that visitors can tour by boat in hopes of seeing the hundreds of elusive creatures that make their home in this beautiful habitat.

On the opposite side of the island, white sand paves the way into the surf of the Gulf of Mexico. Playa Norte is one of the popular beaches on the island. Restaurants featuring fresh seafood and nightlife run parallel to the northern coast providing guests with the tropical beach town feel. Plenty of quieter beaches line the shore too, if you’re willing to take a short drive or a paddle.

Town Center awaits on the west coast of Isla del Carmen, presenting vestiges of colorful colonial European architecture. An old hospital was restored and is now the home of the island’s history museum, which details the region’s pre-Columbian history through the Spanish Inquisition.

Visitors who need a beach break can find other activities on

Cvmontuy

Ciudad del Carmen and further afield. Plaza Zentralia is a shopping center with a variety of restaurants next to the airport, which also acts as an activity hub with plenty of bars in the immediate area and fantastic dining experiences lining the roads between the airport and town center. The botanical gardens and zoo are other great options for half or full-day entertainment that highlight the

biodiversity of the surrounding area. Visitors can end the night at the casino or the bars in town.

History buffs and day-trippers might enjoy seeing what the rest of the state has to offer. The capital city of Campeche has a UNESCO world heritage site just 200 km up the coast. The region is also home to well-preserved remains of ancient Mayan temples. ml

WHERE TO DOCK

Marina Bucanero +52-938-118-0554

Marina Bucanero on the lagoon side of Ciudad del Carmen is a charming marina and hotel.

WHERE TO DINE

OV Vaquero Restaurante Y Taqueria +52-938-286-1155

Located near the center of town, OV Vaquero serves an excellent taco, but the menu also includes a full spread of high-quality starters, soups, salads and desserts.

La Pigua Ciudad del Carmen +52-938- 112-0808

Near Playa Norte, La Pigua is a local franchise in Campeche serving Mexican, Caribbean and local seafood. Prices are reasonable, and the coconut shrimp is hailed as the signature dish.

Cocteleria Cajun +52-938-382-1421

Located at the southwestern end of the island, Cocteleria Cajun is known for fresh seafood and comfortable atmosphere. A popular place among locals, visitors to Ciudad del Carmen agree that this spot should not be missed.

Mosto Beer House +52-938- 111-1992

On the southern side of the island, Mosto Beer House serves a variety of international beers, and the pizza is a crowd pleaser. The cozy wood-fronted bar also attracts visitors and adds to the atmosphere.

Mr. Pampas Do Brasil +52-938-129-9654

This lively Brazilian steakhouse is near the center of the island and boasts an extensive menu of local dishes, fresh meats, a fresh salad bar and a kids room for family meals.

Isla Aguada

Carlos

Aranda

Waone Interesni Kazki pxhere

Kenya Avilés González

Pavilion in Ignacio Zaragoza plaza

Carlos Valenzuela

THE TOP QUESTIONS ASKED ABOUT DOING THE GREAT LOOP

BY KATE CARNEY

MY HUSBAND, TIM, AND I spent most of 2021 and part of 2022 completing the Great Loop on our 31-foot Camano trawler, Sweet Day. One of the most unexpected and best parts of the trip was the opportunity to share our experience with friends and family. Guests stayed overnight, family members joined us for a day cruise, and generous friends brought over meals when we passed through their hometowns. For those who couldn’t experience Sweet Day physically, we shared our journey through our blog and Instagram, and caught up with stories when we got together off the boat.

Boaters who are familiar with liveaboard life know there is no shortage of questions that curious people ask about a nautical lifestyle. Those who are exploring this way of life may feel like there is no end to the questions you could ask.

Below is a compilation of the most common questions we posed to us about our year doing the Great Loop and living full-time on Sweet Day Hopefully the responses will get you ready for your adventures on this incomparable waterway.

WHAT IS THE GREAT LOOP?

The Great Loop is a 6,000+ mile “loop” around the eastern U.S. and Canadian waterways. The journey takes about a year, if done consecutively, and covers 15+ states and two countries, depending on your route. A few hundred “loopers” complete the journey each year, some doing it all at once, and others covering segments year by year. Loopers plan their journey traveling by seasons to avoid hurricanes in the South and tough winters up North. The America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association (AGLCA) is the resource for all things related to the Loop, and we highly encourage checking them out when planning your trip. (greatloop.org)

WHAT DOES THE FLAG MEAN ON THE BOW OF YOUR BOAT?

If you are currently looping for the first time, it is traditional to fly a white AGLCA burgee or “flag.” Once you complete the loop, it is customary to replace your white burgee with a gold AGLCA burgee to indicate to other boaters that you already completed the full loop. Those who have done the loop more than once fly a platinum

We flew the white AGLCA burgee throughout the trip to indicate we were doing the Great Loop for the first time. After crossing our wake, we switched it out for the gold AGLCA burgee.

Photos courtesy of Kate Carney

burgee. All burgees can be ordered from the AGLCA website. It’s a great way to easily spot and meet other loopers.

HOW DO YOU MEET OTHER LOOPERS?

Since many of us on the loop travel the same segments of the trip at the same time, it is common to see loopers at a dock, anchorage or cruising by. The AGLCA burgee makes it easy to spot cruisers on the journey, and a lot of loopers also use the Nebo app, which shows where other loopers are physically located, so you can message each other. Sometimes we travel a few days with the same boats; others you may see one day and then meet up again a few weeks later.

DID YOU GET STUCK IN BAD WEATHER?

Having a flexible schedule and keeping a close eye on the weather kept us mostly out of uncomfortable waters. We used services such as Windy, AccuWeather, and NOAA

to anticipate wind speeds and wave heights. We tried to only cruise when waves were under three feet, although twice we found ourselves in five+ foot waves (once on the Chesapeake heading to Annapolis and another heading to Presque Isle, MI, on Lake Huron), because our final destination happened to be closer than trying to find an alternative place of refuge. We also encountered strong wind while at anchor and tied up to docks, especially when the wind was going against the tide outside Savannah. By staying vigilant about our lines and anchor holding, we luckily were never in any danger. They say the boat can handle more than the captain, and thankfully the only thing we ever lost due to weather was a few hours of sleep.

DID YOU SLEEP ON THE BOAT EVERY NIGHT?

Our trawler had a v-berth with enough room for us to sleep comfortably. Often when we were near friends and family, they would offer

for us to stay on land. Sometimes we took them up on it, but we preferred to stay on Sweet Day. Just like a land house, Sweet Day had all our comforts of home (because it was our home), and anytime we didn’t have to pack a bag was a plus.

WHAT DO YOU DO ABOUT FOOD?

We ate about 75% of our meals on the boat using our tiny kitchen equipped with a small oven, three-burner stove, microwave, fridge and some pantry space. We ate out if we found a must-see place or were exhausted from a long day and not in the mood to cook. But often we were not close to a restaurant and had to be creative with what was in our pantry. We went to a grocery store two to three times a week by bike and would get enough fresh food for about three dinners (and snacks for lunches) but were limited by what we could carry and store in our boat. Because we didn’t have space for a ton of food, and sometimes our meals were whatever

Sweet Day was home, and we could do almost anything as well as on land — including watching the Super Bowl.

we had on board, so we wasted a lot less food than when living on land.

WHAT WERE YOUR FAVORITE PARTS OF THE TRIP?

We get this question all the time, and it’s still challenging to answer. Each part of the trip (inland rivers, Gulf of Mexico, Intracoastal Waterway, Chesapeake Bay, Delaware and Hudson Rivers, Erie Canal, Great Lakes) posed their unique challenges, breathtaking scenery, regional cuisine and character. The loop has too many special places to mark our favorites as each place we stopped shaped our journey, whether it was having a conversation with a dock hand to enjoying a locally made beer, to attending a community BBQ. Our country’s waterways are beautiful and a critical part of our infrastructure, and the life that is built around them is always worth experiencing.

DID YOU EVER GET SICK OF EACH OTHER?

Mostly no, but sometimes we were very aware we were living together on a 31-foot boat. We learned communication is key and ultimately felt very fortunate to be on this journey together. Before the trip, we heard

about the “80/80 Marriage,” which is the concept that spouses should not try to ensure each is doing their fair share (or 50/50), but each should aim to do 80%. This mindset helped a lot. At night lying in bed, I may say, “I forgot to turn off the water pump. Tim, can you do an 80 for me and get up and turn it off?” Or Tim would comment, “Kate, you really pulled an 80 on cooking dinner and doing the dishes.” We couldn’t imagine doing this trip with anyone else.

WHO WAS THE CAPTAIN?

We consider us both the captain. While we both have our strengths, each of us was involved in almost every aspect of the boat. We both drove, troubleshot boat problems, navigated, planned routes, grocery shopped, cleaned and so on. From a safety standpoint, it was important both of us could take on responsibilities should something happen to the other. This was our journey, and it was vital to us that we both were involved in decisions and operations that made this adventure possible. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/GreatLoop-QA

The Nebo app is popular among loopers to easily see and communicate with other boaters in real time

We tended to eat mostly on the boat and enjoyed a local drink or snack when stopped.

Scan to start your adventure

America’s Great Loop

tries + Count +2 2+ t •

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CRUISERS’ ASSOCIATION

Ready to start your own adventure?

Join our group of likeminded boaters exploring the 6,000mile waterway known as the Great Loop. There is no more unique way to explore the U.S. and Canada than from the water! Whether you’re brand new to the idea of the Great Loop, actively planning your trip, or ready to drop the dock lines and head out, we offer something for you!

Visit us at www.greatloop.org or call 877-GR8-LOOP

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100+ Locks • 5,250+ Miles... ... all aboard your own boat!

Membership in America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association

includes:

• Access to hundreds of harbor hosts to assist you with local knowledge around the route

• Participation in our discussion forum that offers a deep-dive into Great Loop-related questions and topics

• Webinars exclusively for members

• Discounts on dockage, fuel, equipment....

• Monthly digital magazines and newsletters

• Access to our distinctive AGLCA burgee

• Members-only events

• And so much more!

Explore the Great Loop route on our website at www.GreatLoop.org!

Lee Andrea

General Manager

Miami Beach Marina, Suntex Marinas

What is the most fun part of your job?

Serving at the helm of Miami Beach Marina (MBM), the most exciting part of my job is meeting and greeting our current and new patrons, and creating customized and memorable experiences for our guests during every visit.

If you weren’t working at the marina, what job would suit you best?

My employment interests are generally in the hospitality industry. My line of work before Miami Beach Marina was in the golf industry, and this environment gave me the opportunity to introduce my trademark culture of service excellence.

Where is your favorite place to visit by boat?

It is always a memorable and breathtaking experience doing a tour of the Miami skyline at night, replete with the river view and many restaurants.

What is your first memory of being on a boat?

My first and perhaps most memorable moment on a boat was right here at MBM. I enjoyed a steak and lobster dinner with the owner of the Boston Celtics on his boat.

Describe yourself in three words. Compassionate. Resilient. Resourceful.

What book do you believe every boater should read?

I strongly recommend what has been branded the boater’s bible: Boating Skills and Seamanship, published by the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary. This industryleading book serves as an authoritative reference and educational guide on seamanship. One of its goals is to share recommendations on fundamental

practices that benefit both novices and experienced boaters.

What is the most interesting or oddest watercraft you’ve seen cruise into the marina?

The most interesting vessel I have seen at MBM was shaped like a Lamborghini.

What is the number one attraction you recommend for first-time visitors to the area?

A cruise of Fisher and Star Islands.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/LeeAndrea

Miami Beach Marina

BITTER END YACHT CLUB

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

ONLY ACCESSIBLE BY BOAT, Bitter

End Yacht Club’s family-owned destination has been in business for 50 years. As you cruise Virgin Gorda’s gorgeous coastal stretch along the British Virgin Islands, the yacht club is situated on a secluded island and feels like a tiny nautical town.

The property was decimated by Hurricane Irma in 2017 and took four years to rebuild, finally reopening in 2021. With help from the community, the marina worked meticulously to maintain the legacy and history of the yacht club. By chance, some signage and maritime artifacts were salvaged from the storm and now appear in art galleries in the property’s clubhouse.

The full-service facility offers deep-draft dockage for up to 26 vessels, accommodating yachts up to 240’. The marina also offers 72 mooring balls and catamaran slips to accommodate wide beams. A few charming cottages are available on-site for lodging,

with plans to build more in the future.

Amenities include a fuel dock, complimentary Wi-Fi, free launch service from all shoreside activities and a second floor mariner’s lounge and library where guests

can play cards, read books and enjoy familyfriendly activities. Recently opened this winter, The Quarterdeck lounge boasts a selection of curated rums from across the globe and a 180-degree view of the Caribbean.

Sailors can be found socializing at The Buoy Room, the on-site restaurant offering cocktails and shared small plates of Caribbean cuisine. The Reef Sampler beach bar, a sunken vessel that was the workforce of the club fleet for many years, is now transformed into a bar perched on Marina Beach. Recently revived this winter, the formal yacht club dining room, The Clubhouse, was founded in 1969 and was the first restaurant bar in the BVI’s North Sound.

The marina provides any provision or dry good you could imagine from fresh oven-baked pizzas to The Market’s pastas, produce and fish straight off the boat. For on-site retail, The Reeftique has become a

premier BVI destination and fashion boutique with unique apparel, accessories, jewelry and gifts.

In tandem with Reeftique and help from the community, the marina launched Bitter End Foundation right after the hurricane, hosting fundraisers, events, auctions and environmental initiatives over the years. A percentage of retail profits continue to fund the foundation to help the community.

Watersports are the heart and soul of the marina, which offers everything from sailing and windsurfing lessons to regattas and other activities. The outdoor space along Marina Beach is a lively hub for games such as cornhole and giant Jenga, as well as Boston Whaler boat rentals.

and have a sense of adventure,” says President Kerri Jaffe.

The marina hosts activities such as party games, tug-of-war, hermit crab races and live local Caribbean music. Many regattas are held through the year, along with other events during the festive season, such as the lighted boat parade and exclusive dining experiences.

The third generation of the Hokin family currently owns the marina and maintains the longtime spirit and dedication to the community with what they now call “Bitter End 2.0.”

Many guests feel that Bitter End is their home away from home. “We feel less like a resort hotel and more like a global community of kindred spirits with people who love and are called to the sea, are active

“It was a commitment to our global maritime community, many who are multi-generational,” says Jaffe. “Something really unique and special about Bitter End is the families — the grandfathers, the fathers and the grandchildren who have been introduced over the last 50 years and come back every year, and some even return more than once a year.” ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/BitterEndYC

“We feel less like a resort hotel and more like a global community of kindred spirits with people who love and are called to the sea, are active and have a sense of adventure.”

Nevertheless, She

Eight trailblazing women who circumnavigated the globe

Tosail around the world is an ultimate endurance test and a dream that has for centuries tempted explorers, adventurers and those who love sailing. Ferdinand Magellan was the first maritime globe trotter, and he gets all the credit — even though he didn’t finish the journey.

During a skirmish with natives in the Philippines, he was shot by a poisoned arrow and left by his crew to die. His navigator Juan Sebastián Elcano then captained the Victoria, a 31-foot, 85-ton ship with a crew of 45 men back to Spain in September of 1522, three years after Magellan led his flotilla of five ships westward across the Atlantic Ocean in search of a new route to the Spice Islands.

In September of 2022, Ellen Magellan set off down the Trinity River in East Texas in the Evelyn Mae, a 22-foot, carbon fiber rowboat outfitted with two cabins and a solar power generator, on her way to the Gulf of Mexico in the first leg of an audacious, seven-year attempt to row a boat solo around the world. At the age of 27, Ellen seeks to raise awareness of the state of the ocean and promote the notion that it’s okay for women to travel alone and experience life-changing experiences.

Will Magellan complete her journey? Who knows. But, inspired by her passion, Marinalife presents the stories of eight trailblazing women who circumnavigated the globe via boat in their own ways, taking on a challenge historically reserved mainly for men.

Nejron

Persevered

JEANNE BARET of France became the first woman to circumnavigate the globe, albeit without knowing it. Jeanne disguised herself as a man to illegally accompany her botanist lover as part of a French Navy scientific voyage looking for exotic plants. Women weren’t allowed on Navy boats. In Brazil, it is believed she discovered a new exotic flowering vine and named it Bougainvillea in honor of Louis de Bougainville, who headed the around-the-world expedition. Her identity was eventually discovered in Tahiti where some historians claim she was sexually assaulted by her crewmates. Baret and her lover Philibert Commerson were later left behind in Mauritius in the Indian Ocean as the expedition continued. On Mauritius, they befriended the governor, an avid botanist, and studied the flora of the region. When Commerson died, Baret married a Frenchman and together they returned unceremoniously to France three years after Baret’s journey began, thus completing the around the world journey. Bougainville later arranged for Jeanne to receive a Navy pension in recognition of her contributions on the exhibition.

BY JAMES R. BARNETT

NELLIE BLY was an American investigative journalist widely known for going undercover to report the terrible conditions of a New York City insane asylum. In 1888, she began what would be a 72-day trip around the world via steamship, horse and railroad to emulate Jules Verne’s popular fictional character Phileas Fogg in Around the World in Eighty Days. She was the first person to turn the fiction into fact. New York World Publisher Joseph Pulitzer initially was against it, believing only a man could make such a trip. He eventually acquiesced and published daily updates on her journey. The entire nation followed along as Nellie raced not only time, but also another woman. Elizabeth Bisland, representing Cosmopolitan Magazine, finished her circumnavigation four days after Nellie triumphantly arrived in New York. Bly was honored with a U.S. postage stamp in 2002.

1975-78 1989

KRYSTYNA

CHOJNOWSKA-LISKIEWICZ, an experienced Polish sailor and ship construction engineer, became the first woman to sail around the world solo. Krystyna was selected for the challenge in a competition held by Poland’s Sailing Association to promote Polish sailing during the United Nation’s International Women’s Year. Her husband, also a shipbuilder, customdesigned the Mazurek, a 9.5-meters long by 3-meters wide boat for Krystyna. During her voyage, Krystyna was stopped and suspected of drug trafficking, overcame storms, and battled not only kidney stones, but New Zealand sailor Naomi James, who

TRACY EDWARDS was expelled from school in Britain at the age of 15 and began traveling the world. She worked on charter yachts in Greece and learned how to sail, eventually taking part in the prestigious Whitbread Round the World Race as a cook in 1985. Four years later, Edwards skippered the first all-female crew in the Whitbread Race. Edwards’ Maiden, a restored second-hand racing yacht, went on to win two of the six legs of the race and finished second overall. The media covering the race was often derogatory. One sailing journalist described the Maiden as a “tin full of tarts.” Nevertheless, Tracy and her crew garnered worldwide praise, and she was awarded Britain’s Yachtsman of the Year Trophy and the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (MBE). Today, she works with charities around the world to break down barriers preventing girls from getting an education.

Wikimedia Commons

Tracy Edwards and The Maiden Crew and RJA Stewardesses with Beefeater Trophy

Wikimedia Commons

2005 2009 2019

DAME ELLEN MACARTHUR, a British sailor, broke the world record for the fastest solo circumnavigation of the globe in 2005 on her first attempt. Her time of 71 days, 14 hours, 18 minutes and 33 seconds beat the previous record by more than a day. Shortly after her return to England amid a flotilla of boats and cheering crowds, MacArthur became the youngest woman in modern history to be made Dame Commander of the British Empire (DBE). In 2009, she announced her retirement from competitive sailing and subsequently launched a foundation promoting the concept of the “circular economy” — rethinking how to design, make, and use the things people need, from food to clothing, to transform our economy into one where waste is eliminated, resources are circulated, and nature is regenerated.

LAURA DEKKER, a New Zealandborn Dutch sailor became at age 16 the youngest person to circumnavigate the globe single handedly. Because her parents were divorced, Dutch courts stepped in to prevent her departure earlier at age 15 because national law prohibited a captain of a boat younger than 16 to sail a boat longer than 7 meters in Dutch waters. Dekker, who was born to parents living on a boat off the coast of New Zealand, first sailed solo at the age of six and soon thereafter began dreaming of sailing around the world. When she finally won the right to sail, she launched from St. Maarten in her 38’ boat Guppy. In 2018, she founded the Laura Dekker World Sailing Foundation to provide programs for young people to develop life skills such as teamwork, self-confidence, responsibility and leadership.

British sailor JEANNE SOCRATES became the oldest woman at age 77 to single-handedly sail around the world, non-stop and without outside assistance. It was her third attempt. When she departed Victoria, British Columbia, aboard her 38’ boat Nereida, she was still recovering from a broken neck and broken ribs from a fall in a previous attempt. Socrates accomplished the feat in 11 months, sailing around all five great capes (Cape Horn, Cape of Good Hope, Cape Leeuwin, South East Cape of Tasmania and the South Cape of Stewart Island) and dodging three cyclones. In honor of her feat, the Greater Victoria Harbour Authority in Victoria named the inner harbor commercial dock the Jean Socrates Dock. Socrates is still sailing today. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/WomenCircumnavigators

BEST Waterfront Resorts IN THE SOUTH

BY ELLEN HONEY

The Breakers Palm Beach, FL

Photo courtesy of The Breakers Palm Beach

The South is well-known for the hospitality of its people, the freshness of the seafood and the flavors of down-home cooking. What more could you ask for during a getaway? Well, it turns out, a lot! Resorts offer opportunities to do it all or do absolutely nothing in spectacular settings. Check out the following vacation options, which range from ultramodern island getaways to dignified historic grand dames.

SANDERLING RESORT | Duck, NC

On the beachfront where the Atlantic joins Currituck Sound, this Outer Banks resort offers nonstop motion or endless relaxation in peaceful waterside surroundings. Fly a kite beachside, hit a golf or tennis ball, go hang-gliding or roam with wild horses. Water lovers can take surf lessons, plunge into the Atlantic or lounge by the tranquility pool sipping on a drink from the Sandbar. The award-winning Spa at Sanderling offers coastal and seasonal treatments with views of tranquil Currituck Sound.

For refined dining, try Kimball’s Kitchen, (reopens on Memorial Day) and for all-day service, The Lifesaving Station is located in the 1874 Caffey’s Inlet Lifesaving Station. Although the closest marina is about 30 minutes away in Nags Head, this resort is too scenic to be excluded and OBX First Watch provides transport service to the resort. sanderling-resort.com

Where to Dock: Pirate's Cove Marina or Safe Harbor Outer Banks

SEA PINES RESORT | Hilton Head, SC

Unlimited land and sea recreation awaits on these 5,000 pristine oceanfront acres. Spend a morning touring the 605-acre forest preserve, explore the grounds on horseback or bicycle, or grab a kayak and join playful dolphins lounging along the beach.

The soothing rhythms of nature surround accommodations ranging from the romantic seaside hideaway Inn & Club at Harbour Town to the luxurious vacation homes for families. The Quarterdeck has a rooftop oyster bar with perfect sunset views overlooking Calibogue Sound. seapines.com

Where to Dock: Harbour Town Yacht Basin or Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina

THE SANCTUARY | Kiawah Island, SC

Designed to feel like a casually elegant seaside mansion, The Sanctuary’s live oak framed entrance gives the resort a centuries old ambiance. In addition to the golf course, spa and pools overlooking the coastal Carolina landscape, guests enjoy miles of wide beach that glow pink at sunset.

Eateries across the island offer a diverse range of culinary items true to coastal Carolina roots. It’s Lowcountry cooking all day at Jasmine Porch. Shrimp & Grits (buttered local shrimp, organic grits and tasso ham cloaked in sweet pepper, onion and tomato gravy) is irresistible. kiawahresort.com

Where to Dock: Bohicket Marina & Market (local) or Safe Harbor Charleston City (transient)

MONTAGE PALMETTO BLUFF | Bluffton, SC

A classic Southern escape nestled along the scenic May River, the Montage is set within an active 20,000-acre community between Hilton Head Island and Savannah. The collection of spacious cottages, suites and village homes honor the region’s rich heritage as does the Lowcountry-inspired fare served with traditional Southern hospitality. Salute the morning at Buzz with fresh brewed coffee and house-made pastries. The dinner menu at River House celebrates both land and water with steak, seafood and game offerings.

The resort encompasses an extensive nature preserve, plus golfing, fishing, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding. Spa Montage uses local elements to provide authentic coastal plains wellness treatments inspired by nature. montagehotels.com

Where to Dock: TPG Isle of Hope Marina

Palmetto Bluff

JEKYLL ISLAND CLUB RESORT | Jekyll

Island, GA

Centered on 5,700 virtually undisturbed acres, this award-winning resort offers the historic charms of the Jekyll Island Club and adjacent Island Cottages, or the modern appeal of the beachfront Jekyll Ocean Club. Throughout the property are a multitude of land and water activities, a variety of dining options, a sun-warmed pool with fire pit as well as direct access to the National Historic Landmark District and complimentary shuttle to the ocean beaches. From the pool deck of the Jekyll Ocean Club, follow the footpath over the dunes for a day on the sand.

The verandas surrounding the famed clubhouse dating back to 1888 were designed to provide spectacular views. Bring a Pat Conroy novel and nestle into one of the porch’s rocking chairs overlooking the croquet lawn and riverfront. jekyllclub.com

Where to Dock: Jekyll Harbor Marina

Jekyll Island Club Resort

Jack Kennard/Flickr

O’Brien

O’Brien

O’Brien

Montage Palmetto Bluff

THE BREAKERS | Palm Beach, FL

Recognized as one of America’s most iconic resorts, this Italian Renaissance-style hotel is situated on 140 acres of oceanfront property. Still in the hands of founder Henry M. Flagler’s heirs, this legendary property remains independent of chain affiliation.

The Breakers Mediterranean-style architecture is inspired by Italian villas of the 15th century (i.e. the Villa Medici in Rome) The palm-lined drive leads to a sea-side palace with a lobby influenced by the Great Hall of the Palazzo Carrega in Genoa. Steeped in the glamour of a bygone era, yet wholly current, there are two golf courses, 10 tennis courts, a Forbes five-star spa and an alfresco shopping plaza. The private poolside cabanas have flat-screens and concierge service.

Restaurants range from casual beachfront to stylishly sophisticated. The Circle’s arched windows offer glimpses of the Atlantic and a soaring 30-foot, hand-painted ceiling. Sunday mornings, seasoned travelers and locals come to The Circle for an artfully crafted buffet brunch experience. thebreakers.com

Where to Dock: Town of Palm Beach Marina or Palm Harbor Marina

Photos courtesy of The Breakers Palm Beach

Bottom photo: Courtesy of Little Palm Island Resort & Spa

THE VINOY RENAISSANCE RESORT & GOLF CLUB | St. Petersburg, FL

Currently undergoing yet another reimagination project, the grandest of all the 1920s Boom Era hotels remains pink, proud and preserved. A wide range of celebrities and notables have graced The Vinoy veranda at one time or another.

The hotel’s history is fascinating. In 1942, it was leased to the U.S. Army Air Force and subsequently the U.S. Maritime Service as a training center and housing for military cooks and bakers. By the 1970s, The Vinoy had declined into a low-rent boarding house, commanding $7 per night, far less than the extravagant nightly rate of $20 in 1925. Ironically, in 1990 as the painstaking restoration of this local treasure began, the hotel revealed a treasure of its own. Workers discovered a vault containing 1,400 silver pieces stamped “The Vinoy” and wrapped in newspapers dated 1934. Most amenities including golf, tennis, spa, pools and dining areas are open during the latest upgrades. vinoyclub.com

Where to Dock: The Vinoy Marina

LITTLE PALM ISLAND RESORT & SPA | Little Torch Key, FL

This secluded adults-only retreat features British West Indies-style thatched roof bungalows. A private island with crushed seashell paths winding through lush foliage and exotic wildlife, it is accessible only by boat or seaplane. All amenities, including an indoor-outdoor spa, deliver exotic charm reminiscent of a Balinese hideaway. A menu worthy of paradise is served in the plush dining room or at idyllic beachside tables.

Away from the island seclusion, find deep sea fishing, natural reef snorkeling or kayaking through the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge. Visit the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, an amazing ecosystem for world-class diving, swimming, snorkeling and fishing. littlepalmisland.com

Where to Dock: Little Palm Island docks

SOUTH SHORE HARBOUR RESORT & CONFERENCE CENTER | League City, TX

This tropically inspired getaway sits halfway between Houston and Galveston on Clear Lake, the country’s third largest boating destination. Kemah Boardwalk and its 60-acre theme park with chic shopping and waterfront dining options is just moments away.

Soak in the sunshine at the 185-foot oasis pool at the private cabanas and outdoor lounge. Swim right up to the bar for a poolside lunch. Evening time, dine al fresco at Opus Steakhouse and Bistro. sshr.com

Where to Dock: South Shore Harbour Marina l

view this article online, visit marinalife.com/SouthernWaterfrontResorts

Little Palm Island Resort & Spa

To

The Vinoy Renaissance Resort & Golf Club

Top photo: Wikimedia Commons

Life Rafts

An Offshore Necessity

BY BOB ARRINGTON

When

is

a

small boat

safer than a big boat? When your big boat is sinking or on fire, and the small boat is your life raft. Recreational boaters too often head out in a mild state of denial that their outing could end in their need to be rescued. Day boaters on inland waters may get away with this, but boaters offshore should carefully think about what it would mean if they had to abandon their boat in an emergency.

Many boaters think only boats crossing oceans or commercial vessels that are required to, carry life rafts. The truth is anyone cruising offshore, even on daily trips, should bring a life raft aboard. Fortunately, life raft manufacturers have made this easy by making rafts suited for any size boat and budget.

In selecting a life raft, first determine what type best fits your needs. It also helps to know a bit about the international certification organizations that certify life rafts. Beside commercial vessels, offshore sailors were the primary customers of rafts, so organizations catering to their needs helped establish testing criteria.

All good quality life rafts meet the approval of one or more authorities that test or certify those vessels. Regardless of which type is chosen, the life raft status and servicing certificate must indicate the standard of approval with which it complies. In addition to the certifying bodies listed below, the U.S. Coast Guard also issues life raft approvals but do so mostly to the Safety of Life At Sea (SOLAS) standard. The primary international organizations are:

• SOLAS (International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea): These rafts meet stringent standards for important features and durability. They can be stored in fiberglass canisters and have a complete set of provisions. They are built and tested to the International Maritime Organization’s SOLAS Lifesaving Appliances Code. SOLAS life rafts may also be packed and carried in a soft valise, provided the storage complies with appropriate standards.

Panmaule from Getty Images Pro

• ISAF (Inter national Sailing Federation): This organization covers standards for offshore yachting. The life raft specifications are included in ISAF Offshore Special Regulations.

• ISO (Inter national Standards Organization): An international body that issues a variety of industry standards that vary based on the type of life raft and its intended use. For example, ISO compliant life rafts must be capable of withstanding exposure for 30 days afloat in all sea conditions. They must survive being dropped into the water from a height of 18 meters, with the life raft and all equipment still operating satisfactorily. A floating life raft must be able to withstand repeated jumps on it from a height of at least 4.5 meters above its floor, both with and without the canopy inflated.

To help determine what type of raft suits your needs consider the following: For coastal and near coastal cruising, think about an ISO certified life raft where rescue would take place in under 24 hours. For offshore and transoceanic, consider an ISO certified life raft where rescue could be over 24 hours.

The differences between these rafts, among other things will be, the number of air-inflated tubes making up the raft sides, durability of the overhead canopy, whether the raft has an inflatable floor that insulates occupants from cold seawater, and the contents of the survival items packed in the raft. Certifying organizations along with raft manufactures divide rafts into categories, based in part on the distance in miles the primary vessel is used from shore.

Types of emergency survival packs include ISO Pack I, ISO Pack II, SOLAS B Pack, Offshore Pack (Type E), and Coastal Pack. The most complete stocked survival pack is SOLAS A. This pack is meant for vessels operating 50 or more miles from shore, so it includes more water and food provisions. A recreational boater

botulinum21 from Getty Images

would only select the SOLAS A, because it weighs and costs significantly more than the other packs. Boaters also need to consider the number of persons most likely to be onboard, including pets, and size the raft accordingly.

It’s also important to know that life rafts do not come packed with any type of search and rescue transponders, like EPIRBs, PLBs or VHF radios. This type of equipment would be included in a ditch-bag that the boater would take into the life raft.

Carry or mount? It’s up to you. After selecting the type of raft to suit your needs, the next very important consideration is where on board the boat the raft is carried or mounted. If the raft is in a soft valise, keep it in a dry, well-protected, yet easily accessible location.

Rafts packed in hard cases with fixed mounts need more consideration when selecting a location, which must allow the raft to float free from your boat in the event of it sinking. Frequently people think this means on top of the boat’s hardtop or a similar upper location. While this may indeed allow the raft to float free, it could also make manually launching the raft difficult, if you needed to abandon a boat that was not immediately sinking.

Think in the case of an onboard fire, where someone needs to launch the raft manually. The raft also must be located where it’s easy to reach and deploy overboard. Medium sized rafts in hard

cases could easily weigh 100 pounds or more. Try not to locate the raft where someone would have to lift it and throw it overboard. The ideal location is nested in an outer railing of an upper deck, where it can either float free of a sinking boat or fall free into the water when manually released.

Rafts mounted in hard cases are held to the boat by a hydrostatic release device. If the boat were to sink, when the water pressure reaches a point, typically around eight to 15 feet of water, the device cuts through a cord that holds the raft to the boat. The buoyancy of the container causes the raft to float free from its cradle to the surface.

The life raft is still held to the boat by a breakaway line called a painter, which is attached to a weak link that can break once the raft has inflated. It is very important that the hydrostatic release and weak link are correctly installed. If the painter is not attached to the weak link correctly, the raft may not inflate or release from the sinking vessel.

Most hydrostatic releases have a two-year life, requiring they be replaced at expiration. This is independent from the life raft’s service interval, which varies from one to five years depending on the raft type and brand.

Servicing the raft involves unpacking and inflating the raft, as well as replacing emergency food and water supplies packed into it. Most service/repack facilities allow you to be present when they inflate your raft, and it’s a great idea to coordinate this with them. It’s helpful to be familiar with your raft and its contents in a calm controlled stetting.

Several things on your boat you hope to never use: fire extinguishers, first-aid kits, thru-hull plugs, person overboard devices and your life raft. But having these on board gives you peace of mind, that you and your family would be safe in the event of an emergency. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/LifeRafts

CROATIA

A BOATER'S PARADISE ... and so much more

BY APRIL WINSHIP

If you are looking for history, then exploring one of the many Croatian UNESCO World Heritage Sites will quench your passion for the past.

Transport yourself back to the 4th century AD with a stroll through the remnants of a Roman emperor’s palace. Wander through one of the best-preserved Roman coliseums in the world, and you can almost hear gladiators’ swords clashing against wooden shields.

Croatia’s story is woven together with charming medieval hill towns where regal bell towers seem to pierce the heavens. Climb the ancient tower’s stone steps spiraling to the top and be rewarded with breathtaking vistas. Look straight down past the windows with a line of colorful laundry fluttering in the breeze and on to the delightfully twisty cobblestone streets just wide enough for a donkey cart to pass. Now, centuries later these lanes are lined with enticing artisan shops, gelato stands, and tucked into every bend, a little sidewalk café begging to be discovered.

Ruins of castles and fortresses dot not only the coastline but many of the islands. Standing guard, their thick limestone walls once provided safe haven to the residents within, and now only serve as a testament of a more turbulent time. Walk along the massive stone fortifications and peer down into the moat, and one can almost feel the thunder of horse hooves as knights ride across the drawbridge.

Surround yourself in the art of the ages by stepping inside Croatia’s sacred churches and splendid cathedrals, the architecture spanning the Gothic, Romanesque and Baroque periods.

“WOW!” WAS ALL I COULD COME UP WITH when my neighbor asked, “So, how was Croatia?”

I simply ran out of adjectives to express the beauty and allure of this country. With its unique combination of history, culture, cuisine, friendly locals, rugged mountains, long coastline and crystalline blue waters, not to mention hosting a world-class boating scene, it’s easy to see how Croatia is becoming a popular destination with something to excite everyone.

Dorin

Although it is possible to stay in a Hilton-style hotel or rent a Mediterranean villa by the sea, you have other options. We chose to immerse ourselves in the medieval world by staying in the heart of the old town centers in family-run studio apartments. Sleeping under a roof that dated back 600 years enriched our Croatia experience while also supporting a local family business. These cozy apartments are refurbished to modern standards and are as comfortable as any four-star hotel.

If you’re a nature lover, Croatia boasts eight national parks. One can hike a lake rim and descent onto a series of wooden boardwalks

meandering among turquoise waterfalls giving a unique on-the-water view of Mother Nature’s power or try backpacking through an island forest. However, you do not have to go to a national park to be enveloped in nature, as Croatia is a wonderland anywhere you turn.

If you’re into adrenaline sports, Croatia can provide all you need from bungee jumping to zip lining. For those leaning toward adventure with less heart stopping action, cycling, paddleboarding, sea kayaking or snorkeling are popular choices. My favorite jaunt was an all-day off-road dune buggy ride with a final stop at a local winery for a tour and tasting.

Looking across the ancient town of Dubrovnik known as the "Pearl of the Adriatic"

Roman Arena in Pula

Looking up the steep, narrow

Photos by April Winship

Waiters sampling the wine on the Island of Korcula

Enjoying a beer and coffee while admiring the medieval wall surrounding Dubrovnik

cobblestone steps in Dubrovnik

Croatia has a long history in winemaking, and wine tourism is becoming increasingly popular. Croatia cuisine reflects the flavors of central Europe, Italy and the Mediterranean. The coast of the Adriatic Sea is famous for its fish and seafood dishes while the inland menu features hearty meat platters. Sharing a border with Italy, it’s not unusual to be enticed with handmade pasta or even pizza.

Wrapped around all these sensory experiences is the Croatian people. Perhaps it’s due to the mild Mediterranean climate that the locals exude, a version of a “malo po malo” or “little by little” attitude that entices us fast-paced city dwellers to slow down and take in life. Pausing for a wine spritzer or cappuccino at a sidewalk café could last hours, and it’s not only quite all right…it’s expected. As a local told us; “There’s no such thing as coffee to-go in Croatia.”

CRUISING CROATIA’S DRAMATIC SHORELINE

This small country is touted as the number one sailing destination in Europe, and with good reason. Rivaling the West Coast of the United States in length, Croatia’s

shores are lined with protected ports and marinas that support a wide range of options for visiting the more than 1,200 islands. So, it’s no wonder that each year many visitors opt to explore Croatia by water.

If your taste leans toward a traditional cruise line, you will find an ample supply of lavish cruise ships capable of hosting more than 3,000 guests making overnight stops at the most popular ports of call.

For those seeking a more intimate experience, it’s increasingly popular to book a cabin on a 20 to 40 passenger luxury yacht. Croatia specializes in these small ship cruise lines, because they can explore tiny islands with hidden coves and access regions of the coast larger ships can’t navigate. Becoming your mobile boutique hotel, these opulent yachts boast the finest service, cuisine, spacious teak sundecks and even jacuzzis to enjoy your final nightcap.

Looking to be captured by the romance of exploring the Adriatic under sail? Then your hot ticket may be booking a cabin on one of the smaller eight to 16 passenger schooners known as gulets. Handcrafted of mahogany, pine and teak, these motor-sailing gulets offer a marvelous

blend of modern-day comforts with charms of tradition. Potentially a little more laidback, swimming, sunbathing and just plain relaxing become a favorite pastime of the guests.

If you’re a bit more on the adventurous side, contact one of the many charter boat companies servicing Croatia to reserve your own sailboat or powerboat. Both are available as bareboat or skippered charters. Many choose a local captain to handle the boat and play guide, allowing you to kickback and gain a sense of the culture, all the while discovering his favorite anchorages, villages and local restaurants you would have missed along the way. You just might end the cruise with a new best friend.

If you’re land trekking and want a quick taste of boating life in the Adriatic, wander down to the harbor and book a day cruise from a variety of island tours or dinner cruises offered on small excursion boats.

After a full day of exploring, we often found ourselves joining the locals sitting on the rocky shoreline and hoisting our drinks to yet another magnificent Adriatic sunset. ml

Vineyards of the Lumbarda region on the island of Korcula

A WINE LOVER’S

SECRET PILGRIMAGE

Ever tasted Grk wine? If not, don’t feel bad. Most people, including wine connoisseurs, have never heard of, much less tasted, Grk “Gerk” wine. This Holy Grail of wines is one of the more elusive vinos in the world that ironically enjoys an almost cult-like following in Croatia.

Among wine specialists, there is no consensus whether this peculiar three letter name comes from the wine’s taste (to locals, Grk translates to bitter) or the origins of the first grapes brought to this area by the Greeks, which is also Grk in Croatian.

Around the 3rd century BC, ancient Greeks settled just off the coast of what is now mainland Croatia to a small island called Korčula bringing their precious vines. The southern slopes provided what Grk likes the most: excellent sandy soil and temperature stability under the influence of the surrounding sea. Vines enjoy sunny days, and locals swear that the grapes also benefit from the added reflection of the sun both off the water and the rocky hillsides behind.

These factors seem to be the sweet spot for cultivating this rare variety; however, the precious microclimate only exists in less than 100 acres of coastal land, which is the entirety of all the Grk planted in the world. Cultivation on other islands or in other parts of the country and the world have failed for the most part, making this one of the rarest grapes and categorized as “almost endangered” by the State Institute for Nature Protection.

To make matters worse, Grk is among the 1% of grape varieties in the world that cannot self-pollinate. Because Grk has only female flowers, it is always planted with the male grape vine nearby to enable

pollination. This additional complication also hampers the desire to upscale commercial production.

Limited in production, it’s rare to see Grk wine served or sold outside Korčula. So, the best chance to savor this wine is to visit the handful of family wineries producing Grk. During summer when Korčula welcomes a massive influx of tourists, almost the entire production of Grk wine can be consumed within a season.

MEET ME AT THE WINERY

Time to start my Grk quest. I took the two-hour ferry ride to the island of Korčula, and a short bus ride left me within walking distance of three family wineries. Confession: I had planned to visit all three wineries, but after I got settled into my wine sampling accompanied by a delectable charcuterie board, I began easing into island time and whiling away the afternoon at just one winery.

A tour of the production was accomplished practically from my seat overlooking the vineyards. I did walk over to view the wine cellar, which had enough room to house only eight wine barrels. These are tiny boutique wineries, and the labor of love that goes into making this wine is evident. I asked the owner if they bottled their

wine to sell or import off the island. Looking at me quizzically, he replied that it was for sale only for individuals that came to visit the winery, and they sold out each year.

But was it good? As more of a full-bodied red wine lover, I didn’t know what to expect when he poured this pale golden wine. It was fabulous. It displayed an astounding depth and complexity I usually do not associate with white wine. The taste and texture were dry with hints of pine, citrus and saltiness leaving a subtle touch of tartness or bitterness at the finish.

I left the winery feeling my quest was accomplished. I smiled knowing that the bottle of Grk swaying in my backpack wasn’t going to make it back to the United States in my carry-on luggage, so I’d just have to enjoy it here. Now I have one more reason to return.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/CruisingCroatia

The author sampling Grk wine

SEWAGE

brown sludge dripped off the brim of my hat as I peered out from behind sunglasses spotted with a decidedly unpleasant substance. It was the stuff of pump out nightmares, the result of an ill-fitting connector, a sanitation system severely neglected by the boat’s previous owners and a rather poor decision on my husband’s part to try to fix it himself. “Here honey, hold this down while I go below to bang on things to see if I can get it working.” Following numerous showers and excessive disinfectant efforts, I was able to find the humor in the situation and eventually forgive my husband.

Boaters do not often like to talk about it, but sewage happens. Managing our sewage situation, also known as blackwater, is a part of boating. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the amount of bacterial pollution from one weekend boater’s discharge of untreated sewage is equal to the amount from the treated sewage of 10,000 people during the same period. Properly managing our sewage situation is a part of boating, and it is the law.

Under federal law, it is illegal to dump untreated sewage into navigable U.S. waters, including waters within three miles of shore and inland waters such as rivers, lakes and estuaries. In addition, the EPA has designated at-risk areas as No-Discharge Zones (NDZs), forbidding any discharge, treated or not, in a body of water.

Top photo: Getty Images, top right: Courtesy of Rick Obst

happens

HOW TO GET AHEAD OF A PUMP OUT PROBLEM

by teri miller

To facilitate compliance, all boats in U.S. waters with permanently installed toilets must have a Marine Sanitation Device (MSD) aboard. There are three basic Coast Guard approved MSDs. Type I MSDs involve sewage treatment to meet bacterial content standards prior to discharge. Type II MSDs meet a higher standard of limited bacterial content prior to discharge. Most recreational boats have a variation of Type III MSDs, which store blackwater in tanks for shore-based disposal or discharge beyond the threemile offshore limit.

Type III MSDs require boat operators to manage when and where they will need to empty their blackwater holding tank. Unfortunately, mismanagement of blackwater discharge can be found throughout the boating community and the impact can be startling. Some examples:

› Untreated effluent from boats is not only environmentally harmful, but also a health hazard for other boaters.

› Improperly discharged blackwater can introduce excessive nutrients to a waterway, triggering devastating algal blooms.

› Organic matter and decaying algal blooms settle to the sea floor depleting oxygen levels and harming shellfish and other aquatic species.

› Chemicals added to toilets and holding tanks are toxic to marine life if released unchecked.

› Discharged feces can contain disease-causing organisms, which pose a risk to other boaters, swimmers or those who errantly consume contaminated shellfish.

Blackwater management is an important contributor to the health of our marine environment. Responsible blackwater management starts with knowing and caring for your Marine Sanitation Device. Blackwater systems require routine maintenance such as regular inspection of fittings, hoses and pump mechanisms. (This will also reduce the likelihood of you experiencing your own pump out nightmare like mine.)

a few good tips:

› Use rapid-dissolving toilet paper specifically designed for your MSD.

› Be mindful of products used to clean toilets or treat water as some chemicals cause seals to deteriorate over time.

› Periodically, after you have emptied the holding tank at a pump out station, flush the holding tank with fresh water and pump out a second time. Many recreational boats with a Type III MSD

(holding tank) also have a “Y” valve allowing direct overboard discharge when beyond the three-mile limit. Federal law requires this valve to be secured in a closed position while in inland or coastal waterways. To secure the closure, a non-releasable wire tie may be used or the valve handle removed to prevent accidental discharge.

Responsible blackwater management also involves pump out diligence. In the past, most pump out facilities were located solely at the fuel dock of a marina. While this is still a viable option at some marinas, you can now find more convenient situations.

Thanks in part to the Clean Marina initiative, increased government funding

and new technology, pump out options have increased. Pump out services are often accessible in the slip or portable and brought out to your slip. Some marinas and mooring field hosts offer pump out services by boat. When making slip reservations, ask about pump out services and plan accordingly. Some marinas prefer to have their staff handle the pump out for you, while others may let you do it yourself. Take advantage of pump out availability as often as you can. Frequently pumping out helps keep your tank cleaner and reduces the risk of overflow.

According to the California State Water Resources Control Board, “Discharge from a single boat over one weekend contributes the equivalent bacterial pollution as treated sewage from 10,000 people.” One boater discharging inadequately treated blackwater can cause significant environmental damage … but likewise one boater exercising responsible blackwater management can prevent significant environmental damage. Be the better boater. ml

Clean Marina award winner, Mitchell Creek Marina in Dale Hollow Lake, TN

Top

photo: Courtesy of Oregon Sea Grant; Bottom photo: Lee Roberts via U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

The Caribbean

iStockphoto.com/Vodandy; iStockphoto.com/Mario De Moya F; iStockphoto.com/wanderluster; iStockphoto.com/Katya Dahdah; iStockphoto.com/cdwheatley; iStockphoto.com/ultramarinfoto

Dive into

relaxation

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Calendar of Events WINTER 2023 CARIBBEAN

BY LIYANA IDO

the lead of migrating whales you might be lucky enough to spot, and experience all the Caribbean has to offer on and off the water. Carnival is in full swing all winter in almost every nation in the Caribbean. We highlighted a few, each with its own local cultural spin. You’ll find something for everyone below, from music festivals and foodie events to regattas and horse races.

ONGOING EVENTS

Whale Watching in Turks and Caicos

Turks and Caicos

January-February

As humpback whales migrate to their winter breeding ground in the Dominican Republic, the waters of Turks and Caicos are the perfect place to catch a glimpse. Join a whale watching tour, where you cruise to the Columbus Passage for the best views.

Where to Dock: Blue Haven Marina

‘Tis the season to cruise south for the winter! Follow

Aruba Tourism Authority

Aruba 64th Carnival

CARNIVAL

Aruba Carnival

Aruba

January 7-February 19

Aruba Carnival kicks off in November, but most events and parades happen in the winter. Travel to Oranjestad for the opening torch parade on January 7 and the lighting parade on February 11, dubbed “Aruba’s favorite evening carnival parade.” Enjoy extravagant costumes, electrifying jump-ups and children’s parades, all culminating in the Burning of King Momo at the end of the season.

Where to Dock: Veradero Arbua Marina & Boatyard

Trinidad Carnival

Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago February 16-22

The highlights of Trinidad and Tobago’s Carnival lead up to Ash Wednesday. Carnival Monday opens with J’ouvert in the wee hours, and for the next two days, masqueraders dance through the streets in vibrant costumes and body paint to the sounds of calypso. Nodding to their French Creole roots, performers and attendees celebrate Mardi Gras on Carnival Tuesday.

Where to Dock: CrewsInn Hotel & Yachting Center

Curaçao Carnival

Willemstad

Through February 22

The southern Caribbean island of Curaçao offers an opportunity to experience Carnival starting in the new year. Visitors can expect music festivals with local tumba music and calypso, as well as several parades. Two popular ones are the “Gran Marcha” Parade and Grand Farewell Carnival Parade. While you’re there, explore the island’s secluded beaches, national parks and historical art and architecture.

Where to Dock: Seru Boca Marina

JANUARY

Cayman Cookout

George Town, Cayman Islands January 9-15

The Cayman Cookout is back for the first time since 2020! Come see the world’s most talented chefs and wine and spirits experts at the Grand Cayman Ritz-Carlton for a week of curated culinary events. Foodies relish in top-notch global cuisine, explorers join events across the island, and beverage enthusiasts are in for a treat as the cookout expands its mixology offerings this year.

Where to Dock: The Barcadere Marina

Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico January 19-22

Puerto Rico’s largest festival consumes the streets of Old San Juan with live music, dancing and parades. People wearing huge papier-mâché heads of folk characters are the stars of the show. Look forward to local artisans each day and lively concerts and parties every night.

Where to Dock: San Juan Bay Marina

Rebel Salute St. Ann, Jamaica

January 20-21

For almost three decades, this familyfriendly music festival has brought reggae lovers together to experience the tunes of local and international roots reggae artists. From dusk ‘til dawn, artists perform while food vendors serve local flavors and artisans display indigenous jewelry and craft items in an arts village. Adult attendees are welcome to partake in and learn about cannabis from renowned experts in the “Herb Curb.”

Pineapple Cup, Montego Bay Race

Montego Bay, Jamaica January 21-28

One of the oldest offshore races on the calendar, this course takes competitors from Miami to Cuba through the Northwest Providence Channel, then down a sleigh ride toward the finish line at Montego Bay. Competitors enjoy free dockage and other perks at the Montego Bay Yacht Club, and spectators can join celebratory events.

Where to Dock: Montego Bay Yacht Club

Lisa Bat

Grenada Sailing Week

Bequia Music Festival

Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines

January 25-29

Dock at the second largest island in the Grenadines, known as a mecca to the Caribbean cruising yacht community, for an unforgettable mash-up of musicians. Most artists come from elsewhere in the Caribbean, making for an intimate festival with diverse tunes. When you’re not grooving, explore the lush green hills and white sand beaches of Bequia.

Where to Dock: Bequia Marina

Grenada Sailing

Grenada

Week

January 29-February 3

Chaired by a Grenadian and created by sailing enthusiasts who didn’t want the keelboat regatta to end, this week of racing welcomes contestants from 20+ countries. The first race kicks off at Grenada’s sister island Carriacou and ends in Grenada, and the second set takes place in Grenada. Spectators can look forward to performances from talented local bands and plenty of local Mount Gay Rum from Grenada.

Where to Dock: Prickly Bay Marin or Port Louis Marina

FEBRUARY

Caribbean Multihull Challenge

St. Maarten

February 3-5

Hosted by the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, this race takes contestants through Anguilla and French St. Martin and ends in Dutch St. Maarten. Contestants sail catamarans and tri-hulls — new and classic — through this scenic route. Everyone else enjoys events at the club or joins the non-competitive Cruising Multihull Rally. Participants cruise to Anguilla for beach games, fine dining and a beach bar on Day 1, and Anse Marcel for more dining and partying on Day 2.

Where to Dock: Sint Maarten Yacht Club (private) or Palapa Marina (transient)

Valentine’s Day Jump Up

Christiansted, St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

February 17

Boaters cruising the Caribbean won’t want to miss the Valentine’s Day rendition of this Carnival-esque celebration. Steel drummers and other musicians, local food vendors, and artisans fill the Christiansted

streets and boardwalk in the evening. The most iconic part is when Moko Jumbies, a Virgin Islands tradition said to ward off evil, dance in the streets in their eccentric costumes.

Where to Dock: Green Cay Marina at Tamarind Reef Resort

BVI Wreck Week

British Virgin Islands

February 12-18

Cruise to the British Virgin Islands to celebrate maritime treasures, underwater wrecks and art reefs. Divers get to explore the wrecks with local operators, but events galore are held for landlubbers. Locals share tales of Blackbeard’s time in BVI, and the local boat-building history (Tortola Sloops was created here), alongside welcome and farewell parties on the beach.

Where to Dock: Nanny Cay Resort & Marina

Dominican Independence Day

Samaná, Dominican Republic

February 27

Celebrate Dominican Republic’s independence from Haiti in 1844 in this picturesque beach town on Samaná Bay. Parades and parties run along the Malecón promenade and its businesses. Nature lovers are fascinated by the local Whale Museum and views of humpback whales, who

Wikimedia Commons

San Sebastián

Caribbean festival food Raul Baz/unsplash

come to the Bay for mating seasons. Those seeking relaxation should cruise to Cayo Levantado, a tiny island with gorgeous beaches.

Where to Dock: Ocean World Marina

MARCH

Superyacht Challenge Antigua

Antigua & Barbuda March 6-11

Boaters have a blast watching a small, exclusive fleet of spectacular superyachts race 12-30 mile courses along the stunning south coast of Antigua for five days. Only 12-15 yachts in excess of 80 feet are expected to enter and enjoy the amenities at Nelson’s Dockyard. Owners, guests and crew enjoy exploring the fleet and partaking in laid back social events. superyachtchallengeantigua.com

Where to Dock: Nelson’s Dockyard Marina Moonsplash Anguilla March 10-12

Avid concert goers won’t want to miss the oldest independent music festival in the Caribbean under the stars! Bankie Banx, the reggae artist known as “Anguillan Bob Dylan,” owns the Dune Preserve venue and has performed at the festival himself. Other

Sandy Lane Barbados Gold Cup

Garrison Savannah, Barbados

March 4

Make your way to Garrison Savannah, the home of horse racing in Barbados, for one of the most prestigious events in the Eastern Caribbean equestrian scene. Top local, regional and international jockeys race on a 1,800 meter turf course. And no trip to Barbados is complete without a rum factory tour at the Mount Gay Vistors Centre!

big names such as John Mayer, Nas, Toots and the Maytals, and Inner Circle have been in previous lineups.

Corales Puntacana Championship

Punta Cana, Dominican Republic March 20-26

At this PGA Tour event, golf aficionados can see 120 players compete to earn points for the Fed Ex Cup. The Puntacana Resort & Club, host of the event, boasts an exclusive 18-hole course with natural cliffs and

majestic carolina quarries. While here, book a resort on the Coconut Coast, lay out on Punta Cana’s pristine white beaches, or go zip-lining, windsurfing, or sailing.

Where to Dock: Marina Cap Cana

St. Thomas International Regatta

St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands March 24-26

Round out your winter in the Caribbean with the “Crown Jewel of Caribbean Racing.” Join the shoreside fun with happy hours, dinners and live music at the St. Thomas Yacht Club every night of the race. History buffs should check out Blackbeard’s Castle and Fort Christian, and all visitors should dip into St. Thomas’s popular snorkeling spots.

Where to Dock: St. Thomas Yacht Club (private) or Sapphire Beach Marina (transient)

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/2023CaribbeanEvents

Paul Kehrer/Flickr

Corales Puntacana Resort & Club Championship

Dominican Day Parade

Grenada Sailing Week

Parade of San Sebastián Festival, Puerto Rico

Wikimedia Commons Lisa Bat Wikimedia Commons

10 CARIBBEAN ISLANDS YOU MAY NOT HAVE HEARD OF

Jamaica is synonymous with jerk.

St. Thomas tops the cruise ship stops. Even the little Grenadine island of Mustique has made headlines as a second home for the rich and famous, from the UK’s Princess Margaret to Mick Jagger, Tommy Hilfiger and Bryan Adams. However, with some 7,000 islands, islets and cays making up the 2,000-mile-long Caribbean, you find a treasure trove of off-thebeaten-track destinations that may not ring a bell but are definitely ready for a visit.

BUT NEED TO VISIT NOW

BY CAROL BAREUTHER

CULEBRA

Dance to the sound of the surf on one of the world’s most beautiful beaches. Flamenco Beach, a 1.5-mile crescent of white sand on the 11-square-mile island’s Northshore is a spectacular work of natural art. The shallow reefprotected bay is ideal for swimming, the treelined shore hosts tent camping and the adjacent Culebra National Wildlife Refuge is a seabird lover’s paradise. One funky quirk is the old rusting Sherman tanks. Culebra, like its sibling island of Vieques, was once used for weapons testing by the U.S. Navy. The one town, Dewey, is folksy friendly with guest houses, and bars and restaurants that come alive with music after sunset. It’s a 10-minute flight or 45-minute ferry from Puerto Rico’s mainland town of Fajardo. discoverpuertorico.com

WATER ISLAND

Called the “fourth” U.S. Virgin Island, after St. Thomas, St. Croix and St. John, this three-fourths of a square mile isle became an official Virgin in 1996 when the U.S. government transferred it to territorial control. Take a 10-minute ferry ride to Phillips Landing where a short walk or drive in a rental golf cart over the hill ends at the arc-shaped Honeymoon Beach. A swim and lunch at Heidi’s Honeymoon Grill or Dinghy’s Beach Bar make it a memorable day trip from St. Thomas. The sunset here is spectacular and featured in a scene with Brad Pitt and Cate Blanchett in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. History buffs can venture farther afield in this residential community to see the ruins of World War II-built Fort Segarra. visitusvi.com

ANEGADA

Conch out on this 15-square-mile sandbar-like isle. Nicknamed the “drowned island,” this farthest east of the British Virgin Islands is an hour’s ferry ride or 15-minute flight from the territory’s main hub in Tortola. From here, there’s nothing across the Atlantic Ocean until the Cape Verde Islands and Africa beyond. Top to-dos are strolling miles of white sand beaches and snorkeling or scuba diving on marine life-filled Horseshoe Reef, the fourth largest barrier reef in the world. Conch Island sits on the reef at the island’s far end. Eons of fishermen cleaning conch and discarding the shells have created this manmade octopus-shaped atoll with ocean-filled pools between the tenacles of shells. Conch and lobster star on the menus of Anegada’s handful of beachfront bars and restaurants. Try stewed conch, conch ceviche and conch fritters. bvitourism.com/the-islands/anegada

Discover Puerto Rico

Courtesy of Caribbean Travel Organization

ST. EUSTATIUS

Experience the thrill of the Quill on this Netherlands Antilles island that sits northwest of St. Kitts-Nevis and southeast of Saba. The Quill, a dormant volcano nearly 2,000 feet above sea level, is the second highest mountain in the Netherlands and towers over this 12-square-mile island called Statia for short. Explore several hiking trails, with the most popular being the 2.8-mile round-trip Quill Trail to the crater’s rim. From here, follow the Panorama Point Trail for a picture postcard view. Or take the steep step-marked Crater Trail into the cone and experience the lush rainforest. Trail maps are available from the St. Eustatius Tourism Development Foundation. Black sand beaches, historic ruins and forts, and quaint lodgings and restaurants make for a delightfully laid-back stay. A 20-minute flight from St. Maarten lands at Statia’s F.D. Roosevelt International Airport. statia-tourism.com

Cees Timmers

The Quill in St. Eustatius

BARBUDA

Celebrities and celebrated sea birds are among Antigua’s sister island’s claims to fame. The UK’s Princess Diana vacationed at the exclusive K-Club in the ‘90s, and today actor Robert Di Niro, with Australian billionaire James Packer, is bringing the hurricane-hit property back to life as Nobu Barbuda. The upscale resort sits on the pink-white sands of the renamed Princess Diana Beach. North in the Codrington Lagoon is the largest colony of frigate birds in the Western Hemisphere. Numbers reach nearly 100,000, and it’s a magnificent sight to these three-foot-tall birds, especially the males with their bright red gullets, while on a guided boat tour. It’s a 30-minute flight in a seven-seater plane to the small airstrip on Barbuda, or 90-minutes one-way by ferry. visitantiguabarbuda.com

▼ CANOUAN

MARIE-GALANTE

It’s a sweet treat to visit this 60-square-mile island, owned by France and located 15 miles southeast of Guadeloupe. For one, the name itself “La galette” means pancake, due to the land’s flat terrain and circular shape. Secondly, instead of hiring a taxi, take an ox cart ride to the beach. Like yesteryear, these continue to transport cut cane stalks today. A mile from the town of Grand Bourg is the two-century-old castle-like Château Murat, where a museum shows the history of sugar and rum. Third, sample this sugar in a spirited Ti Punch, preferably at sunset on the porch at Chez Henri’s in Saint-Louis. A hydrofoil ferry makes the trip in 50 minutes from Guadeloupe, while a puddle-jumper flight is only 15 minutes. Brush up on your French before visiting. guadeloupe-islands.com

Nature and nurture combine on this three-square-mile island, which is part of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Residents, who not long ago were outnumbered by the turtles that gave the island its ancient Amerindian name, only received residential electricity and running water in the early 1990s. Now, with the recent opening of the five-star Mandarin Oriental Canouan, with its private jet strip, mega-million-dollar marina, and butler-equipped luxury villas and suites, it is billionaires who may soon exceed the island’s shelled critter population. Go natural for a swim off Charlestown Bay Beach or get nurtured with signature spa treatments at the Mandarin. discoversvg.com/island/canouan

Lucio Sassi

Canouan

LA DÉSIRADE

Have a whale of a time in this three-in-one French archipelago 15 miles east of Guadeloupe. Full-day sightseeing trips launch from Port de la Désirade en route to the uninhabited duo of Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas 10 miles south. These are part of the Petite Terre Islands National Nature Reserve. Humpback whales swim from February to May, and sperm whales are year-round. Back on La Désirade, white sand beaches rimmed by coral reefs create great snorkeling. Fifi Beach is a don’t-miss with its palm-lined shore equipped with picnic tables and nearby sea-filled lagoon. The only way to get here is a 45-minute ferry ride from the town of SaintFrançois, Guadeloupe. Parler français is a plus! guadeloupe-islands.com

Aurelien Brusini

TOBAGO

Relive a Swiss Family Robinson fantasy on Trinidad’s sister island. Situated 19 miles to the east, which translates to 25 minutes by plane or 3 hours by ferry from Trinidad’s capital of Port of Spain, Tobago is where Disney filmed its 1960s shipwrecked family classic. Visit Pigeon Point Beach, with its iconic thatch-roofed jetty and nearby glass bottom boat tours, to see where the Robinson’s two sons, Fritz and Ernst, filmed raft scenes. Inland, waterfall storylines were shot at the Craig Hall Waterfall, where today concrete steps lead to seats with a full view of the falls. Richmond Bay, to the east, served as the movie’s main set. The beach remains, but the west coast’s white sands in Englishman’s Bay, Castara, and Parlatuvier are better for swimming and Swiss Family daydreaming. visittobago.gov.tt

CARRIACOU

Beaches and boats are big draws to Grenada’s 13-square-mile sister, located 90 minutes by ferry or 20 minutes by air to the north. Anse La Roche is an idyllic stretch of soft sand protected by cliffs that offers a secluded beauty both for people and the sea turtles that nest here. Water taxis leave from Hillsborough to Sandy Island, where the reef off the beach is a snorkeler’s dream. The Carriacou Regatta Festival happens in early August, featuring hand-crafted Carriacou sloops, which were cargo workhorses of an earlier era and range from 30’ to 40’-plus in length with a half dozen crew to race. Onshore, locals and visitors alike can participate in the festival’s donkey racing, greasy pole competitions, and beach parties complete with food and drink. puregrenada.com

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/UnknownCaribbean

Courtesy of Caribbean Travel Organization

Courtesy of Grenada Tourism Authority

Welcome to Palm Coast, Florida! Conveniently located along the ICW (mile marker 803), Hammock Beach Marina is your luxury retreat! Transient & Annual dockage available. Access the Hammock Beach Resort and enjoy accommodations and amenities in a unique private club setting. Relax at our spa or take in a round of golf. Walk the beach or have fun at one of our many pools. Welcoming all vessels, including catamarans!

CHARTERING THE Caribbean

An inside look at this popular boating style

BY ALEXA ZIZZI The Moorings

Charter vacations have grown in popularity over the years. Like other industries, it took a hit during COVID but has since skyrocketed in sales. In fact, the global yacht charter market is expected to rise from $6.50 billion in 2019 to $10.82 billion in 2027, according to a 2022 report from international market research publisher, Fortune Business Insights.

From bachelorette parties and milestone celebrations to fishing trips and relaxing getaways, chartering is a convenient way to make vacations a breeze. Whether you want a crewed charter to enjoy boating without manning a boat, or a bareboat charter to rent and return, the recent industry boom has allowed companies to increase services and streamline easy bookings and processes.

“There is rising marine tourism, aquatic recreational activities, and preference to chartering than ownership of motor and luxury yachts due to increasing ownership costs associated with yachts in markets such as Europe and North America,”

notes a report from Transparency Market Research. The charter industry’s revenue is also estimated to rise by boosting services such as cabin, skippered and crewed chartering.

“The yacht charter market is witnessing a growing trend of innovative interior design such as the use of exotic leather … and upholstery in the yacht. Sailing and motor yachts are becoming increasingly equipped with modern woodwork, lighting, and furniture,” Transparency Market Research also reports.

Travel with the local expects on a crewed charter and let loose while enjoying watersports and activities you can’t experience while captaining a vessel, or move at your own speed with the feeling of freedom while bareboating. Your charter company will work with you to not only accommodate all travel needs, but to also plan your trip based on the best weather conditions, routes, local knowledge and anything you want to make of the journey.

CHARTERING TIPS FROM OUR BOATERS

While tracking trends in the boating world, Marinalife also noticed an uptick in interest for chartering a Caribbean vacation. To help understand what’s behind this shift, we conducted an exclusive membership survey and came up with interesting insights that we’d like to share with our readers.

We chose our top 12 Caribbean destinations most frequented by our readers and asked about their favorite locations, what they love about chartering, and what season is best. We also inquired about helpful tips from their experiences.

We found that the U.S. Virgin Islands was the top destination by 74% of the respondents. Coming in second is the Bahamas at 43%. And British Virgin Islands (BVI) remains as one of the favorite charter destinations.

When it comes to the best season for chartering, winter was voted number one

by 56%, followed by spring (48%), then summer (35%), with fall coming in last at 26%. The Caribbean winter season is known for dry, sunny clear skies and mild temperatures — a perfect time for snowbirds to plan a charter escape.

When readers were asked about what they enjoy most about chartering, the most common answer was, “freedom.”

Boater Jim DelVecchio notes his favorite part of the experience is the freedom of bareboating. He suggests to book early to snag the best boats available.

Richard Fisher, who also notes “freedom” as his favorite benefit of bareboating, gave a few tips for chartering the British Virgin Islands: “Know what you are doing, study the geography (nautical charts), relax and enjoy. Winds in the BVI tend to be brisk to potential gale force, especially in the winter.” He adds, “Get a catamaran — the absolute best platform for enjoying the BVI!”

Another boater Westray Paisley strongly recommends planning ahead. His number one tip: “Book early and do your port of call research.”

Paisley cruised the British Virgin Islands with a group of eight in 2015, starting in Road Town, located in the BVI capital of Tortola. He says his group quickly learned that for the smoothest experience, you must have a flexible plan and take your time to enjoy all the gorgeous ports.

“We bareboated the whole trip, and it was very easy, because you are never out of sight of land. We arrived by the ferry from St. Thomas where our booked 54 Leopard power cat was waiting for us from The Moorings charter company,” says Paisley.

“Bareboat is the best for us, since we are all longtime boaters and enjoy the challenge and flexibility to do what we want, when we want. While the 54 Leopard has four staterooms, having a captain would have made it very tight,” he adds.

Have you chartered in the Caribbean? If so, we want to hear about your experience. Share your stories at editorial@marinalife.com

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/CaribbeanSurvey

CARIBBEAN CHARTER COMPANIES

The following charter companies (including their areas of operation) are among some of the region’s top-rated services:

Carefree Yacht Charters carefreecharters.com BVI, USVI

Dream Yacht Charter dreamyachtcharter.com Antigua, Belize, BVI, Cuba, Grenada, Guadeloupe, Martinique, St. Martin, USVI

Horizon Yacht Charters horizonyachtcharters.com Bahamas, BVI, St. Vincent & The Grenadines, USVI

IYC iyc.com/caribbean Antigua, Aruba, Barbados, BVI, Cayman Islands, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominica, Grenada, St. Barts, St. Martin, St. Vincent & The Grenadines, Turks & Caicos, USVI

MarineMax Vacations marinemax.com/vacations BVI

Navigare Yachting navigare-yachting.com Bahamas, BVI USVI

Nicholson Yacht Charters & Services nicholsoncharters.com Antigua, Bahamas, BVI, Cayman Islands, Cuba, Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Maarten, St. Vincent & The Grenadines, USVI

Ritzy Charters ritzycharters.com Anguilla, Bahamas, Belize, BVI, The Grenadines, St. Martin, St. Barts

SailCaribe sailcaribe.com BVI, USVI

Sunsail sunsail.com Antigua, Bahamas, Belize, BVI, Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Martin, Martinique

The Moorings moorings.com Antigua, BVI, Grenada, Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Martin, St. Thomas

Waypoints Yacht Charters waypoints.com BVI, USVI

Wes Paisley and friends in BVI

BY CAROL BAREUTHER

SO CLOSE TO THE UNITED STATES, yet the Bahamas are worlds away with a tropical paradise vibe. This must-visit popularity comes not only from proximity but also a plentiful number of islands to visit, each with distinct personalities. You find everything from upscale resorts to laidback beach bars and pristine nature preserves.

While four islands have international airports, and more than 50 have smaller airports and airstrips, some reachable solely by boat. This means the only way to travel to these destinations is by ferry, water taxi or private boat. Here’s a sampling of seven boat-only Bahamas islands to visit.

Stocking Island

GREEN TURTLE CAY, ABACOS

Sea turtles abound on this namesake three-mile-long barrier island considered part of the Abaco “Out Islands.” Fly from the United States into airports on Treasure Cay or Marsh Harbour. From Treasure, it’s a 20-minute ferry ride to the cay. A couple of marinas, such as at the Green Turtle Club and Bluff House Beach Resort, make it easy to arrive by private boat. The best place to see endangered green sea turtles is Coco Bay Beach. This calm shallow bay to the north is the perfect place to swim and snorkel next to these gentle giants. Reach the bay either on shore by walking or golf cart, or by boat.

Green Turtle Cay is full of civilization too. To the south is the historic town of New Plymouth, founded in the 18th century by British Loyalists during the American Revolution. Walk past the quaint New England-style homes to sight-see at the Loyalists Memorial Sculpture Garden and Albert Lowe Museum, which is housed in a Victorian-era family home and traces the island’s history from its origins. Restaurants, shops, galleries, banks, churches, hardware and grocery stores are on the island. greenturtleclub.com, bluffhouse.com

Where to Dock: Green Turtle

LITTLE HARBOUR CAY, BERRY ISLANDS

Smack in the middle of this 30-square mile chain of 100-plus islands and cays, it is relatives of Chester Darville who first settled here nearly a century ago. Today, Darville owns the cay’s sole business, Flo’s Conch Bar & Restaurant. He brought his father’s dream to life by taking the family back to their home when he opened Flo’s in 1993. Darville’s mother, Flo, served as head chef until her death, building a reputation for the best conch fritters. Today, conch fritters, conch salad, cracked conch and conch burgers are on the menu along with Danville’s special rum punch.

Beyond Flo’s, expect good snorkeling on the nearby reef beyond the small dock and anchorage and sport fishing near and offshore. Located 40 miles north of Nassau, the closest airport is 9 miles south in Little Whale Cay, with no ferry service. This makes Little Harbour remote to reach by boat. Perhaps that’s why some of Darville’s customers have included Brad Pitt, Penelope Cruz and Sylvester Stallone. flosconchbar.com

Where to Dock: Great Harbour Cay Marina or Chub Cay Resort & Marina

ROSE ISLAND, OFF NASSAU

Find a best-of-both-world experience on this 12-mile-long island located three miles east of Nassau. Away from the hustle and bustle of the Bahamas’ capital city, Rose is full of peace and quiet. Back to nature after past lives as a pineapple plantation and private residence until 2005, the now roadless, nearly resident-less island is ripe for a day trip. “While on Rose, guests can partake in snorkeling, exploring and of course swimming with the world-famous pigs,” says Deb Saunders, sales and marketing at Sandy Toes, which operates full-day private excursions to Sandy Toes Beach on Rose.

“We make our own water and power to leave the smallest footprint, so Rose Island may retain its beauty for many years to come,” Saunders adds. Rose is popular with private boats to cruise over from Nassau. First Beach, on Rose’s west end, is closest at a little over 4 miles east of Nassau Harbor. MacTaggart’s Beach, to the east, is farther and delightfully secluded as a result. sandytoesbahamas.com

Where to Dock: Palm Cay Marina or Hurricane Hole Superyacht Marina

Club

Resort & Marina or Bluff House Beach Resort & Marina

Compass Cay

Courtesy of Compass Cay Marina

Rose Island

Courtesy of Sandy Toes 2018

Courtesy of Chat ‘N’ Chill

Chat ‘N’ Chill, Stocking Island

Courtesy of Sandy Toes 2018

COMPASS CAY, EXUMAS

Baby sharks and bigger ones too are the star attraction in the naturally protected harbor of the Compass Cay Marina. “Visitors come from all over the world to have a close interaction with these docile nurse sharks,” says Trevon Rolle, assistant manager. “Aside from these precious creatures, enjoy several hiking trails, a large maze of mangroves leading out from the marina that’s great for kayaking and paddle boarding, a beautiful sandy crescent beach on the eastern shore with gazebos, and a natural formation at the island’s northeast tip called Rachel’s Bubble Bath, which is a natural swimming pool.”

Fly from Fort Lauderdale or Miami to Staniel Cay and take a water taxi to Compass. Or cruise from the Exuma Banks and Exuma Sound through buoy-marked channels, where the draft is six-feet in low and nine-feet in high tide. Marina docks accommodate yachts up to 200 feet and are

equipped with reverse osmosis water and 30-, 50- and 100-amp electricity. The marina store sells beverages and food items. The closest fuel is Staniel Cay five miles south. compasscaymarina.com

Where to Dock: Compass Cay Marina

Courtesy of Chat ‘N’ Chill

off on a trolling trip for snapper and grouper. Or snorkel at the nearby underwater Thunderball cave, socalled for the same-named James Bond spy flick filmed here. Or cruise to Staniel Cay Yacht Club for lunch. Staniel is the closest airstrip to Fowl, and the resort offers guests a sevenminute ferry ride. Or, BYOB (bring your own boat) and tie off at Fowl Cay’s north dock. fowlcay.com

Where to Dock: Staniel Cay Yacht Club

STOCKING ISLAND, EXUMAS

Shaped like — you guessed it — a long narrow stocking, the one-mile distance from the Government Dock in Georgetown, Great Exuma, across a protected harbor, makes this an easy dinghy trip. You can explore several beaches on this three-mile-long island, from Starfish and Powder beaches to the northwest and northeast, respectively, to Sand Dollar beach at the southern tip. Right in the middle, and nearest to Georgetown, on a small beach sits the Chat ‘N’ Chill beach bar and grill.

FOWL CAY, EXUMAS

Once used as a nature-made corral where nearby communities raised chickens (hence the namesake fowl), this 50-acre island has been a private luxury destination for two decades. Its vibe is Robinson Crusoe meets the Ritz. Six secluded yet spectacular one-, two- and three-bedroom rental villas start around $20,000 per week in season. That combines with resort amenities such as a restaurant, pool, tennis courts, housekeeping services and watersports equipment. Best of all, an 18-foot powerboat with unlimited gas is included in every villa hire.

Fowl is a perfect homeport to cast

“Try our fresh conch salad and experience a Bahamian tradition,” invites owner Kwanza Bowe. “Watch as conch is taken straight from the sea, cracked and broken out of its natural shell right before your eyes. The conch man then skins the conch, washes it, chops it up, and prepares it with locally grown onions, tomatoes, sweet peppers, goat peppers and Bahamian sea salt for your conch salad.” An easy walk from this eatery is gorgeous sand dunes. Beyond, on the island’s Atlantic side are stromatolites. These are fossilized bacteria dating over 1 million years old and found only on Stocking Island and in Australia. “We also recommend visiting the Jacques Cousteau Mystery Cave,” Bowe adds. “This is reached by a two-minute boat ride from the Chat ‘N’ Chill. The cave’s

Stocking Island

mouth teems with fish and is an excellent snorkeling spot.” chatnchill.com/explore-stocking-island

Where to Dock: St. Francis Resort & Marina

CONCEPTION ISLAND

Take a visit to the wildlife side. Christopher Columbus first sited it in 1492, but no humans have lived on this 4.5-square-mile island for over a century. The Bahamas National Trust established a national park here in 1964. Pink sand beaches, lush mangrove ecosystems and spectacular sandstone cliffs make this one of the prettiest islands in the Bahamas. Imperiled long-tail tropicbirds, ospreys, sooty terns and oystercatchers nest on the island, while surrounding waters are nurseries for conch, crawfish, sharks and fish. Green turtles are a common sight in the creek off the southwest shore. Discover ruins of several early 20th century structures made of limestone, shells and mortar, but no amenities or facilities are ashore. So, bring food and water to explore on land. The best anchorage is in West Bay, and a couple of moorings, marked by large red buoys, are nearby. The closest island is Rum Cay, 20 miles south, which has a small airport. bnt.bs/explore/conceptionisland-national-park

Where to Dock: Conception Island National Park

Green Turtle Cay

Courtesy of Green Turtle Club Resort

Courtesy of Flo's Conch Shack

Flo's Conch Shack

Caribbean Dreaming

Marinalife’s winter reads that take you to warmer places

BY AIMEE STERN

Baby it’s cold outside, and what’s better than curling up on your comfy couch with a warm blanket, a glass of amber liquid and a roaring fire.

The perfect companion?

A book that transports you to shimmering sun above turquoise water as a sultry breeze wafts over you. Start planning your next vacation with our Caribbean Dreaming book suggestions.

Crichton

Pirate Latitudes by Michael

The bestselling author takes us on a wild adventure set in the New World when Jamaica was still a British colony. Swashbuckling is an understatement to describe the plot of this book. Pirate Latitude’s hero is a privateer hired by Jamaica’s governor as they scramble to take a galleon full of jewels before it is shipped off to Spain. Captain Charles Hunter races time as he competes against the notorious pirates to find the galleon. Theft and betrayal are the least of it.

Caribbean by James A. Michener

The master storyteller takes us through 700 years of Caribbean history from its beginnings to modern times. Caribbean spans the life of Bakmu, a peaceful member of the Arawak people whose prowess in games still

gets him eaten by cannibals. The book also covers the explorers Christopher Columbus, John Hawkins, and Sir Francis Drake, the rise of the Rastafarians, and Cuba under Fidel Castro. Michener’s patented blend of fiction and history provides a sweeping view of the islands and why we dream of them when we are not there.

A Sail of Two Idiots by Renee Petrillo

We’ve all had moments where our imagination ditches life as we know it and sends us on a boat out to sea for good. Renee and Michael set sail without much boating experience and learn how to navigate

Dmitry Travnikov/Getty Images

the hard way. They sailed on a catamaran from Miami to Grenada eventually dropping anchor on an island that intrigued them. A Sail of Two Idiots offers boating lessons wrapped in a “get your cake and eat it too” humor.

Island People by Joshua Jelly-Schapiro

Starting with Christopher Columbus, who set foot in the Caribbean while mistaking it for Asia, the author argues that the region has repeatedly been defined by a series of misconceptions and false assumptions. Jelly-Shapiro examines local politics, languages, religions, music and culture showcasing how its people contributed to the making of the modern Caribbean. The voyage takes us to Haiti, Barbados, Trinidad, Cuba, Jamaica, Puerto Rico and multiple islands in between.

An Embarrassment of Mangoes

by Ann Vanderhoof

Who hasn’t dreamt about lying on the deck of a boat cruising the Caribbean, the only decision to make what color drink to have? Canadians Ann Vanderhoof and her husband, Steve, did just that in the mid-1990s, quitting

their jobs and setting sail on a 42-foot sailboat called Receta (recipe). Their two-year adventure spanned 16 countries and 47 islands from the Bahamas to Trinidad and carries us to secluded beaches, local markets and specialties that just may convince you it’s time to do the same.

Island Dreams Caribbean

by Joan Tapper and Nik Wheeler

Dive into a book of photos and commentary surrounded by the seductive landscapes and dazzling blues of the Caribbean Sea. With Joan Tapper’s words and Nik Wheeler’s photography, this book offers

something for everyone in their choices of places to visit and places to live. Featuring large islands such as Cuba, Jamaica and Puerto Rico and smaller ones like Antigua and Martinique, the pair serves up a relaxed lifestyle: quaint harbors, winding streets, quirky bars, open-air markets, and local art. Enjoy more than 200 spectacular color photos.

Love for Sail by Connie Barrera

Join Barrera as she makes her first ocean passage as captain of Diamantista, her new charter yacht. Connie’s friend Paul Russo cannot come on her maiden voyage, so she relies on a pick-up crew and trouble begins the moment her ship leaves port. Love for Sail is the first book

in the Connie Barrera romantic thriller series.

National Geographic Traveler:

The Caribbean, Third Edition by Emma Stanford and Nick Hanna National Geographic travel guides are requisite reading for boaters in need of an island fix and this book does not disappoint. While many travel books are filled with logistical specifics like where to stay, what it costs and must-see locations, this one takes you to islands with gorgeous photos and detailed descriptions of their history. Island exploration spans Dominica, St. Lucia and Barbados, as well as a number of lesser known, small paradises.

Our Man in Havana

by Graham Greene

What happens when an unsuccessful vacuum-cleaner salesman gets recruited by the secret service to gather intelligence on nuclear facilities during the Cold War? Greene’s classic novel is the tale of James Wormold, an everyman who files fake reports about spies and nuclear weapons. But when his reports start to turn into truth, they come back to haunt him.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/CaribbeanBooks

LIFE WITH THE LOCALS IN Antig

ARTICLE AND PHOTOS BY ALEXA ZIZZI

Catamaran crew reeling in a big one

Little Ffryes Beach

Thinking back to my trip planning last year, I did not expect to find myself treading through calm Caribbean waters — but there I was, in the heat of summer, unexpectedly thriving on a tropical island.

In the middle of a slow July workday at home in Baltimore, my friend Rebecca offered me the trip of a lifetime. She casually asked, “Do you want to come with me to Antigua… with a free place to stay?” With no hesitation I replied, “Absolutely!”

In just a few weeks, we ventured to the tiny island in the Lesser Antilles along the eastern Caribbean, where we would stay with her aunt, a native Antiguan, and get the true local experience.

Spending a week embracing authentic island neighborhoods, lifestyle, history and culture from a native tour guide made this trip unmatched to any other. Aunt Elaine — aka Iola (her island name) — welcomed us to stay in her charming home in Saint John’s that she’s owned for more than 25 years.

The first night was especially memorable as Aunt Elaine hosted a party with family and friends. We mingled with locals, played card games with the kids and feasted on seasoned rice, a traditional Antiguan dish simmering with delicious rice, beans and juicy pork on the bone.

I quickly learned what it means to be on “island time” as cell phones are rarely used, everyone is running a little late and locals show up at their friend’s houses to check in on them. The people are extremely warm and welcoming. It was nice to see such a tight-knit community, as Aunt Elaine’s friends and family would often stop by her house in the morning just to say hi. Her front porch

The author, Aunt Elaine and friends at Dickenson Bay

offered peaceful mornings, as we would sip coffee, chat with the neighbors and bird-watch unique colorful species.

Throughout the trip, our group spent most of the time at Dickenson Bay located just a few miles from the house. Along the endless strip of beachfront, we found water activities, souvenir stands, bars, restaurants and the luxurious Sandals Grande Resort. We swam in the clear, calm waters, jet-skied the Bay and even treated ourselves to beach massages.

We sipped piña coladas and ate fresh calamari at Salt Plage at Siboney Beach Club, where guests take a dinghy out to an isolated tiki barge or enjoy a short swim across the water. Just a few steps before the Sandals resort, we indulged in a lovely dinner at Ana’s on the Beach restaurant.

To properly tour more of the island, we rented a car and felt like locals driving

around, beach hopping, sightseeing and jamming to Caribbean tunes. Before Antigua became an independent nation in 1981, it was once a British colony, so the rules of the road are to drive on the left side like in Europe. Let’s just say adjusting to that was … an adventure.

With 365 beaches across the island, we were fortunate to explore a few. We ventured to Half Moon Bay, where the waves were stunning but the water was a bit too rough to swim; Long Bay, where we relaxed at Pineapple Beach Club; and Little Ffryes Beach, where I enjoyed a refreshing swim in lightly drizzling rain.

A SMALL ISLAND WITH BIG HISTORY

A few days were dedicated to an historic sightseeing quest, when we visited Nelson’s Dockyard along the English Harbour,

reminiscent of a Pirates of the Caribbean scene. We then ventured over to Falmouth Harbour for a steak and sushi dinner at The Club House restaurant at Antigua Yacht Club.

Another evening we caught a sunset over Devil’s Bridge, a gorgeous natural limestone formation yet a place with a sad history of the country’s oppression, as slaves would escape their plantations and come here to jump off the cliff rather than returning to slavery. This spot was stunning but left me with an unsettling feeling.

My favorite moment was catching the sunset at Shirley Heights, the highest lookout point on the island’s southern tip. As I stood there embracing the breathtaking view above the open water of the English Harbour, it felt like I was on top of the world. What was once an important military lookout and gun battery is now an historic site and venue that transforms into the town’s hottest party scene on select nights.

Perched almost 500 feet above sea level, stone walls line what is now a dance floor and outdoor dining area, and the former guardhouse is now home to Shirley Heights Lookout Restaurant & Bar. We stayed for the Sunday night reggae party where I feasted on the most delicious jerk chicken, then bought a pair of maracas for $5 and danced the night away.

The best adventure was the following day on the circumnavigation tour aboard the Wadadli Cats catamaran. The crew served island BBQ and rum punches from the open bar as we cruised alongside millionaire mansions and saw hillsidehomes of stars such as Cameron Diaz and Eric Clapton. We were even lucky enough to witness the crew catch a huge Spanish mackerel while everyone onboard cheered and celebrated as they reeled it in.

The boat anchored at sandy beaches for quick swims in a few secluded coves. This

Cooking jerk chicken at Shirley Heights

Shirley Heights

Shirley Heights reggae party

Spanish mackerel caught by catamaran crew

Wadadli Cats catamaran at Dickenson Bay

Little Ffryes Beach

included an amazing stop where we snorkeled the protected coral reef and swam alongside sea turtles. The sweet snorkel guide, Alex, passed me a live conch shell while underwater, gracing me with a true mermaid moment.

Among all of my Antigua adventures, from exploring the historical sites to snorkeling in the deep blue sea, I must say that kicking it with Aunt Elaine, meeting new people and learning from the locals was by far my favorite part of the trip.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/LifeInAntigua

A RIDE THROUGH THE

Rainforest

On our route south from Saint John’s to English Harbour, we took a detour and drove through the rainforest. We traveled on steep roads through villages lined with colorful homes as we cautiously dodged street-side goats, donkeys and various wild animals. We had so much fun exploring, but the trip took a turn for the worst when Aunt Elaine was appalled by what she saw. And I’m not talking about the donkeys.

“I remember taking school trips through here when the trees were so lush and full of life, and now you can see completely through them,” she says. “Soon, there will be no rainforest left at all!” She was truly heartbroken by the deforestation and how different the rainforest looked since she had last visited the southern side of the island many years ago.

The rainforest survived British invasion when they razed most of the tropical forests to plant sugarcane in the 1600s, and it has been a thriving ecosystem for the country ever since. Now, portions of the fields lay fallow along the rugged roads due to deforestation negatively impacting the farms over time.

The island also faced extreme agriculture devastation from Hurricane Irma in 2017 when crops, livestock, bees and machinery were destroyed and 1,407 people were

displaced. This damage poses huge threats to the region’s wildlife, as it is home to more than 200 animal species and 1,100 species of vascular plants.

Thanks to local restoration efforts, local nonprofits such as Wallings Nature Reserve provides the region with a community-managed national park and conservation organization. Their mission is to practice sustainable development and engage the local community in the fight against climate change.

“Aside from the danger posed by the annual hurricane season, Antigua and Barbuda face unique environmental challenges due to its modest size and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Growing weather pattern variability, rising sea levels, erosion of coastal lands and the encroachment of saline water into freshwater aquifers threaten the country’s ecosystems and biodiversity,” according to Learning for Nature, a United Nations program.

Wallings Nature Reserve spearheads numerous initiatives to restore and protect the local habitat, such as the Caribbean Tree Planting Initiative, in partnership with the Sandals Foundation who worked to replenish 10,000 native trees last summer. To learn more, visit wallingsnaturereserve.org

Marinalife just made saving money while cruising a lot easier.

The Marinalife Discount Directory is now exclusively available in an easy, online format that allows you to search for costsavings with a simple click from your phone or mobile device. To get started, scan the QR code below with your phone or visit our web site marinalife.com/discounts to search for discounts wherever you travel!

When booking on Snag-A-Slip, add your Membership Number to your online account before checking out. With great benefits comes easy, convenient and affordable boating.

Photo by GoldenEye

EXPERIENCE THE SUNTEX DIFFERENCE!

Suntex Marinas are so much more than a place to park a boat. Suntex adds the valuable personal touch that is delivered by our highly-responsive staff, and through the premium services and amenities that enhance the customer experience. Our rigorous standards to maintain the marinas in top condition are also why Suntex Marinas’ customer satisfaction ratings are among the highest in the hospitality industry.

To learn more about our growing network of more than 50 marinas with an unwavering commitment to world-class guest services and experiences, visit SUNTEX.COM/MARINALIFE