Marinalife Summer 2022 by Marinalife, LLC

marinalife.com SUMMER 2022

Let’s Make This

Summer

Sizzle! SECLUDED BEACHES ON THE ATLANTIC COAST

LONG ISLAND DOCK & DINES

CHESAPEAKE MUSIC EVENTS & FESTIVALS

Vacation Excellence From award-winning yachts to spectacular service, The Moorings is the world’s premier choice for yacht charter vacations. With unsurpassed dedication to excellence at sea, this is where your next great vacation begins.

MOORINGS.COM | 800 669 6529

“A totally pain-free sailing experience.” “The best boats available… luxurious and seaworthy.” “Each individual need was met above and beyond expectations.” “Your customer service was the best I have ever experienced.” “A top-notch experience from start to finish.”

Set your course for

THE CHOPTANK A N NA POL IS, M D

110 COMPROMISE ST, ANNAPOLIS, MD | THECHOPTANKRESTAURANT.COM | @CHOPTANKNAP

The

View W

hat is it that makes us passionately crave the water view? Why are we willing to spend hundreds of thousands more for a home on the water versus the identical home without that view?

have something that I feel is truly special. Something that touches us deep inside because not only is it pretty, it’s the water and everything the water brings to us that is absolutely incredible.

As summer starts to warm up I watch my waterfront view overlooking the West River, off the Chesapeake Bay, majestically change with so many vibrant colors and wildlife. I can’t help but wonder what it is that touches our soul and causes us to pause and take it all in. Yes it’s pretty, but I feel it’s something much more than just pretty.

It’s the early morning sunrise with fishing boats heading out for the day’s catch and the sunshine and warm summer afternoons filled with energy and excitement. It’s watching osprey fish with incredible aerial acrobatics while keeping a watchful eye on their young, or the great blue heron stalking its prey in the shallows. It’s those evening sunsets with the sky so brilliantly lit. The Bay is like an everchanging canvas of art constantly providing us with a brand new picture.

There are many beautiful views such as mountains, valleys, and rolling country hills. However here on the Chesapeake Bay we

Here on the Chesapeake Bay, we get to see all the different seasons unfold in front of us. So I ask, what is it about living on the water that makes your stress just fall away and brings that unique level of peace?

in all the beauty that is right outside your door. If my team and I can help you with that, by all means, please reach out to us. I would also just love to hear from you and hear what it is that takes your breath away by living on the water.

If you love boating and being on the water, have you considered building a custom home or remodeling your current home on the water? Our clients come to us because they have been told that we fully understand the passion and love of living on the water. At Creative Spaces Remodeling, a design/build firm, we specialize in waterfront homes, custom homes and major remodels.

“John August” Johnson at john@remodelthebay.com or 410-867-0407

My suggestion is to make sure your home is designed to allow you to embrace and partake

Summer 2022

CONTENTS >

ON THE COVER Young people having fun during a party on a private boat. Photo by jacoblund

IN EVERY ISSUE Editors’ Log 12 / What’s New 14 / Nauti Shopper 22 / Smart Boater 40 / Port Personalities 61 / Captain’s Tips 84

50 32 BEST SECLUDED BEACHES ON THE EAST COAST

50 WOMEN’S BOATING CLUBS & GROUPS

68 ECO-FRIENDLY BOATING Lake Erie: A restoration saga.

76 SPECTACULAR SPANS

A tour of America’s great bridges.

88 DOCK & DINE ON LONG ISLAND SOUND (Part 2) The New York side of the Sound.

SPECIAL SECTION: THE CHESAPEAKE BAY 98 Chesapeake Bay Calendar of Events

Enjoy summer happenings all around the region.

102 What’s New on the Chesapeake Bay

Updates straight from the docks.

Greg Burke

26 Cruise Itinerary Cartagena, Colombia: A worthy destination

44 Cruising with Members Adventures from Detroit to Port Huron

56 Weekend Warrior Lewes, DE, to Penn’s Landing, Philadelphia, PA

106 Chesapeake Seafood Houses

Meet newcomers to the Bay’s waterfront bar & restaurant scene.

112 Virginia’s Historic Triangle

Cruise to places that founded America.

122 The Sounds of Summer

Waterside music festivals and concert series along the Chesapeake Bay.

134 What’s Brewing in Baltimore?

A destination guide to craft beers in the neighborhood.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marinalife, LLC, 921 E. Fort Avenue, Suite 225, Baltimore, MD 21230

m arinalife.com

95-137

Marinalife magazine, Vol. 17, Iss. 3 is published quarterly by Marinalife, LLC, 921 E. Fort Avenue, Suite 225, Baltimore, MD 21230, 410-752-0505. Annual subscription price $24.99; for subscription (please add $10 for Canadian addresses and $20 for all other international addresses), renewal or change of address, call 410-752-0505 or visit marinalife.com. Periodical Postage paid at the Baltimore, MD, post office and at additional mailing offices. ISSN #2152-2200

Leo Rivas/unsplash

Sun Sea Horse

18 Destination Jamestown, RI 25 Marina Spotlight Steelpointe Harbor Marina 36 Destination Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario 39 This or That C&D Canal vs. Cape Cod Canal 62 Destination Camden, ME 67 Marina Spotlight Danfords Hotel, Marina & Spa 72 History The “Fishy Side” of Ocean City, MD 128 Food & Drink Cappy’s Crabs & the Chesapeake Feast

146 Cast Off

Dive into

relaxation

Chart a course for waypoint N24° 45’ 48’ W80° 54’ 40’ and refuel, reload and relax in an island paradise known for some of the best ﬁshing and diving the world has to offer. Laid back luxury is a way of life at Hawks Cay Marina. Drop your anchor, tie up and indulge in the incomparable amenities and culinary excellence of our world-class resort while docked within reach of the only living coral reef in the continental U.S. Hawks Cay Marina features 85 boat slips, accommodation for vessels up to 110 feet in length, one spectacular resort, ﬁve pools, the Key’s only saltwater lagoon, award-winning restaurants and a full-service spa.

HAWKSCAY.COM | (888) 395-5539

DOCK. DINE. STAY.

Play!

40-ACRES OF FUN

The largest deep-water marina in the Florida Keys, The Perry Hotel & Marina is more than just a marina — it’s a world-class destination. Featuring the award-winning Perry Hotel, two waterfront pools, three dockside restaurants, an entire village of experiences right at your fingertips, and 5-star service, we guarantee an unforgettable Key West getaway.

7005 SHRIMP ROAD | KEY WEST, FLORIDA 33040 PERRYKEYWEST.COM | 855.421.0551

Dear Fellow Boaters:

My brother recently texted photos of himself grinning and holding a whopper coho salmon that he’d caught in Lake Erie. “Tasted better than the salmon I hooked in Alaska,” he bragged. I gagged as I remembered childhood trips to Lake Erie, when our parents were so worried about its polluted waters that we were not allowed to eat the fish we landed or take a swim without getting tossed in a hot shower as soon as we were home. That Great Lake is totally different than when we were kids, my big bro insisted. Conservation efforts cleaned up the waters, and Erie has become a great boating and fishing destination. People change; places do, too. You gotta keep an open mind and dispel old myths. With those thoughts, the underlying theme for Marinalife’s 2022 summer issue emerged. This boating season was about rejecting preconceived notions and dismissing ideas that would prevent boaters from exploring delightful locations that were once considered off limits. Marinalife travel writers met the challenge by visiting waterfront towns that had been neglected or abandoned by

CHECK OUT NEW SOFTWARE that connects boaters to marinas!

shifts in industry but are now experiencmarinalife.com/Manager ing a revival, such as Penn’s Landing in Philadelphia or Detroit’s riverside rebirth. The already charming fishing village of Camden, ME, has been energized by a boat-builder who had the vision and resources to add amenities and upgrades that are bringing the community back to the water. Perhaps the most daring of all was a boater who rejected rumors about Cartangena, Colombia, and discovered a vibrant metropolis that became a favorite cruising spot for her husband and young children. And in our special Chesapeake Bay section, we introduce you to waterfront seafood houses that are popping up in centuries-old, restored buildings. So, as we plan our summer itineraries, let’s get out of our comfort zones and explore hidden gems that might not make the top 10 lists — at least not yet. We wish you safe travels and happy boating,

Joy McPeters, Marinalife Founder

Susan Elnicki Wade, Editor in Chief

TI E U P.

WIND DOWN. Only a block from the quintessential charm of downtown Nantucket, come ashore and embrace life on island time at Nantucket Boat Basin and our harborside cottages.

SUMMER ON NANTUCKET AWAITS Reserve your slip today at nantucketboatbasin.com or call (844) 213- 6500. To extend your escape on land, visit thecottagesnantucket.com and book your stay at The Cottages at Nantucket Boat Basin.

marinalife.com

Marinalife magazine, published four times a year, is focused on the cruising lifestyle. The magazine includes articles on where to cruise, new marina destinations, upcoming events, boating stories and a directory of the many great discounts available to Cruising Club members.

PLAN YOUR TRIP AND

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Susan Elnicki Wade swade@marinalife.com FOUNDER & PUBLISHER EMERITUS

Joy McPeters ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Alexa Zizzi EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Liyana Ido Claire Ruppert CONTRIBUTORS

Bob Arrington Carol Bareuther James R. Barnett Heather Burke Kate Carney Lisa Carruthers Ellen Honey Richard Kern Kia Koropp Teri Miller April Winship MAGAZINE PRODUCTION

Mid-Atlantic Custom Media jmann@midatlanticmedia.com Ebony Brown, Art Director Rachel Levitan, Designer Jay Sevidal, Designer MARINALIFE SALES

sales@marinalife.com QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS

info@marinalife.com MARINALIFE, LLC 921 E. Fort Avenue, Suite 225 Baltimore, MD 21230 Tel: 410-752-0505

Adventure starts with marinalife.com S U M M ER 2 0 2 2

Marina Updates Nantucket Boat Basin

WHAT’s new

WITH

SUMMER 2022 BY ALEXA ZIZZI

Kingman Yacht Center Hosts Summer Events & Cruises Plan your trip to Kingman Yacht Center in Cataumet, MA, this summer and catch family-friendly events. From craft nights and boat-in movies to themed parties and poker runs, this is the ultimate summer destination. July and August cruises include the KYC Kruise to Provincetown, KYC Kruise to Block Island and Newport, the New Bedford Harbor Dinner Cruise and Cuttyhunk Fireworks Cruise. For more info, visit kingmanyachtcenter.com/calendar

Oasis Marinas Lands First Property in Tennessee The marina management company is proud to announce its newest property, Watauga Lakeshore Resort & Marina in Hampton, TN, the first Oasis location in the state. The full-service facility offers moorings, a fuel dock, marina store, 14

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Watauga Lakeshore Resort & Marina

The Best Marina Contest Is Back! The highly anticipated contest of the year is officially open for submissions. Vote for your favorite marinas of 2022 in two categories: Best Large Marina (over 100 slips) and Best Small Marina (under 200 slips). Submit your selections by October 1, 2022. Visit marinalife.com/ 2022BestMarinaContest

2022 Photo Contest Is Open for Submissions Send your best summertime shot to Marinalife’s third annual photo contest. We welcome snapshots that capture moments of maritime merriment from photographers of

Annapolis Green connects local businesses, government agencies and families with Maryland nonprofits and provides access to environmental education and opportunities. If you’re cruising along the Bay this summer, catch events such as the Waterbird Survey at Jug Bay Wetlands Sanctuary on the Patuxent River and Pollinator/ Preserve Wednesdays at Jug Bay’s newest property, Emory Waters Nature Preserve. Go to annapolisgreen.com

all skill levels. Enter by September 9, 2022. For details, visit marinalife.com/ 2022PhotoContest

pxhere.com

Nantucket Boat Basin can’t wait to show visitors its recent renovations. The original 1968 steel bulkhead was replaced on Old South Wharf from the Cottages to the Anglers Club. New finger piers and pilings just got installed. The space between Slip 14 and the Cottages was also updated with new seating and planters. To top it off, the men’s bathroom and two private bathrooms were fully renovated. For details, go to nantucketboatbasin.com

Annapolis Group Protects the Chesapeake Bay

lakeshore-resort.com

New Upgrades on the Island of Nantucket

boater’s lounge and upscale amenities. Rent ski or pontoon boats and fish in the clean waters of Watauga Lake. Visit oasismarinas.com

Upcoming Boat Shows Newport International Boat Show Newport, RI September 15-18 TrawlerFest Baltimore Baltimore, MD September 27-October 1 United States Powerboat Show Annapolis, MD October 6-9 United States Sailboat Show Annapolis, MD October 13-17

AS FAITHFULLY AS THE TIDES

Ocean Reef is more than a club, it’s family; a family that holds tradition, privacy and belonging at its core. That’s why generations of Members continue to connect and to enjoy the countless amenities all within this private club community. OceanReefClubLiving.com

welcome

Hyannis Marina is your gateway to the beautiful clear waters of Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard. With over 180 slips we accommodate everything from small motorboats to deep draft sailboats and megayachts up to 200 feet in length. Slip into the heart of Cape Cod, then walk to nearby beaches, restaurants, town and much more. • 15’+ MLW approach & dockside depth • Exclusive harborside pool & cabana bar • 2 full menu restaurants onsite • Private showers & bathrooms • Courtesy & rental cars

• High speed fuel, volume discounts • Municipal & Private Airport within 3 miles • Ships store • Parts Service Department • Dockside TV & WiFi • Close to town, beaches and shopping

www.hyannismarina.com 1 Willow St., Hyannis MA 508-790-4000 ext. 146 16

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Greg Burke

SPONSORED CONTENT

LYMAN-MORSE

Breathes New Energy into a Coastal New England Town BY SUSAN ELNICKI WADE

he buzz of construction at the docks of Camden, ME, is finished, and it’s been replaced with an air of excitement among residents and visitors who watched a beautiful new development emerge along the waterfront. The rebirth of Camden’s harbor started in 2015 when Lyman-Morse bought Wayfarer Marine. Based in nearby Thomaston, Lyman-Morse has run a successful boat-building business since the 1970s. More than 120 vessels have been constructed in the yard, located in the same site where Malabar schooners, Friendship sloops and other fine vessels have been built for nearly two centuries. Lyman-Morse has expanded beyond custom sailing and motor yachts, now offering high-quality refits, and other services. Lyman-Morse’s boatyard and nine-acre facility enjoy a long maritime tradition on Camden’s shoreline, ranging

from building schooners in the 19th century to U.S. minesweepers and troop transports in World War II, and servicing vessels from high-end yachts to recreational boats. The location of this acquisition is idyllic. Nestled in a lovely cove on Penobscot Bay, Camden has been a bastion of seafaring activity and a worldwide nautical travel destination for centuries. The scenery is dramatic, with forested mountains that meet the ocean and offshore islands that are an explorer’s paradise. The 1830s Curtis Island Lighthouse near the harbor keeps watch over the town’s quaint homes, shops, restaurants, opera house and galleries. Inspired by the area’s natural beauty, the new development’s designers also understood Camden’s historic role in the region and wanted to carry that forward in modern form. They studied vintage photos, matched the style and created 33,000 square feet of new buildings for

marine services and mixed-use commercial space. Lyman-Morse’s Camden boatyard attracts maritime professionals and boaters with essential services for carpentry, mechanics, electronics, rigging and more, and brings the general public back to the working waterfront with amenities such as restaurants, a distillery, a few overnight accommodations, and a boardwalk big enough for a morning stroll or brisk dog walk. Added bonus: Sensitivity to the environment was not overlooked in construction. Engineers took a sustainable approach when they elevated all structures above the flood plain, installed LED lights and upgraded all systems to today’s energy-efficient levels. To learn more about Lyman-Morse’s Camden Development or plan your visit, go to lymanmorse.com or contact the dockmasters at reservations@lymanmorse.com S U M M ER 2 02 2

Wikimedia Commons

DESTINATION > JAMESTOWN, RI

David Wilson on Flickr

Beavertail Light from the water

This.Usually.Works on Flickr

Jamestown Cafe

Jamestown Windmill

Visit the scenic and historic island of

Jamestown, RI BY LISA CARRUTHERS

ocated on Conanicut Island, Gould Island and Dutch Island, Jamestown welcomes boaters to Narragansett Bay. Its southernmost point is on Gould Island and marked by Beavertail Lighthouse and State Park. The northernmost point is marked by Conanicut Island Lighthouse. Conanicut Island is the second largest island on Narragansett Bay near the western mainland in Kingston, and Newport lies to the east on Aquidneck Island.

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Hop on the Jamestown Newport Ferry to get the lay of the land and sea. Jamestown was settled early in colonial history and was named for James, Duke of York, who became King James II in 1685. By 1710, many of Jamestown’s current roads were already in place, and a lot of its early architecture is well preserved. Soak up some local history at the Jamestown Fire Memorial Museum, Beavertail Lighthouse Museum and Park, Jamestown Windmill, Watson Farm, Conanicut Island Sanctuary,

Fort Wetherill State Park, and the Jamestown Settlement museum. The main town, shops and restaurants are located on the eastern shore of Conanicut Island. But even from the western side, Dutch Harbor and other attractions are easily accessed with a one-mile walk. ml To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/JamestownRI

WHERE TO DOCK

WHERE TO DINE

Conanicut Marina

Slice of Heaven

401-423-5820 This full-service marina has a ships store/chandlery, gift shop, extensive dockage and a large mooring field. It’s located in the heart of town overlooking Newport and the Pell Bridge, so bring your fishing poles for the kids.

401-423-9866 This family-owned café and bakery with an outdoor patio is an ideal spot for breakfast and lunch, especially if you’re looking for tasty gluten-free and vegetarian options.

J22 Tap & Table Dutch Harbor Boat Yard 401-423-0630 Located on the west passage of Narragansett Bay, this small, local marina has good moorings, launch service and facilities. At times, the harbor can be rolly from a SW wind up the West Passage. The holding ground is excellent for anchoring, but the dinghy dock is by seasonal permit only.

Safe Harbor Jamestown Boatyard 401-423-0600 Jamestown Boatyard is renowned for excellent workmanship on all types of boats. It also has a large mooring field and is in a beautiful location on the East Passage.

401-423-3709 This lively, year-round restaurant specializes in classic American cuisine and local seafood dishes such as New England clam chowder, lobster tail and seared yellowfin tuna while accommodating meat eaters with wings, burgers and steak tacos.

Village Hearth Bakery & Café 401-423-9282 Take a seat inside this rustic eatery or outside on the patio to enjoy wood-fired bread, pizzas and pastries with a cool beer or wine. To start your day with a smile, order a cup of the eco-friendly coffee.

Bay Voyage Restaurant 401-560-7979 Inside the Wyndham Bay Voyage Inn, this casual dining establishment presents a seasonal menu of American cuisine standards and seafood with fresh ingredients and a stellar view of Narragansett Bay.

Wikimedia Commons

Beavertail State Park

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Beavertail Lighthouse

Wikimedia Commons

Conanicut Friends Meetinghouse

S U M M ER 2 0 2 2

SEPTEMBER 15–18, 2022

Newport for new products Official U.S. Debuts of 2023 Boats & Boating Products

P H O T O B Y O N N E VA N D E R WA L

NEWPORT INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW

NAUTI SHOPPER > BY ALEXA ZIZZI

JSLOPhoto

I SEE IT. WHAT IS IT? Identify your new discoveries with these apps and guides

RESOURCEFUL APPS FISHVERIFY

fishverify.com

Available on Google Play, the Apple App Store and Galaxy Store This fish finder app lets anglers discover saltwater and freshwater catches with the snap of a picture. Take a live shot or import photos and the AI technology works its magic. Learn about marine habitats and check weather conditions including winds, tides, water temperature and barometric pressure. (Free download; premium subscription is $29.99/ year) fishverify.com

SHELL MUSEUM: IDENTIFY SHELLS Available on Google Play and the Apple App Store Take photos of your shoreline discoveries and this innovative app helps you figure out what they are and the sea creature that built it. Thanks to the Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum in Sanibel, FL, beachcombers can now identify most common shells found across Florida beaches in seconds. ($1.99 download) shellmuseum.org

FishVerify App

22 m amarinalife.com r inalife.com

Reef.org

Available on Google Play and the Apple App Store This navigation and social boating app offers satellite, terrain and NOAA map features, depth and contours, trip planning, voyage tracking and a captain’s log for itineraries. Find points of interest such as fuel docks, anchorages, marinas and restaurants. The social boating features helps you connect with the boating community. (Free download) argonav.io

Barnes and Noble

ARGO: BOATING NAVIGATION

SPECIES GUIDEBOOKS REEF FISH IDENTIFICATION — FLORIDA, CARIBBEAN, BAHAMAS By Paul Humann and Ned Deloach Whether you’re a southern angler or marine wildlife documenter, you’ll love combing through 1,000 photographs of more than 683 species in this book. Designed as a reference guide, this new 4th edition identifies fish and aquatic creatures throughout the waterways of Florida, the Caribbean and Bahamas. ($44.95) reef.org/products/reef-fish-identificationflorida-caribbean-and-bahamas-4th-edition

KAUFMAN FIELD GUIDE TO BIRDS OF NORTH AMERICA by Kenn Kaufman Kaufman Field Guides This guide has been a leading birdlife guidebook for decades. Vibrant photos, detailed descriptions and range maps illustrate a lively key for bird-watching excursions. The book is compact, easily portable and studies most species in North America. (Prices vary) kaufmanfieldguides.com/birds.html

THE TRACKER’S HANDBOOK: HOW TO IDENTIFY AND TRAIL ANY ANIMAL By Len McDougall Whether you’re hunting for dinner, hiking or being an avid nature lover, this guide makes animal tracking easy. Discover North American species such as the American Elk and Whitetail Deer. Identify footprints, habitats and range. This book isn’t just for hunters; it’s for explorers of all kinds. ($34.56) barnesandnoble.com/w/the-trackershandbook-len-mcdougall/1118940778

JUNIOR EXPLORER SKY GUIDE APP Available on Google Play and the Apple App Store Point a smartphone to the sky and suddenly you appear in your own planetarium with this stargazing app. Sky Guide locates your position and follows the stars in real time while superimposing constellations and figures interactively. Find planets in rotation, discover where Pisces is currently rising or catch the next meteor shower. ($1.99 download) apps.apple.com/us/app/sky-guide/ id576588894

OCEAN ANIMALS COLLECTION SERIES

Argo Navigation App

National Geographic Kids Children will become overnight marine biologists with this fun learning series. Young readers can spot sea otters, manatees, turtles and much more. Teach your kids about aquatic habitats with photography and unique fun facts on each species. ($17.99) barnesandnoble.com/w/ocean-animalscollection-national-geographickids/1123056379

OUTDOOR SCIENCE LAB SmartLab Toys This outdoor set brings out kids’ inner scientific explorer. Examining bugs, plants, dirt, weather and more. Activities include testing various samples and tracking findings in a science log. Kids can enjoy after-dark exploration with the UV night scope. ($45) shopsweetthreads.com/products/smartlabtoys-outdoor-science-lab-bugs-dirt-plants

Pexels/Yaroslav Shuraev

Sky Guide App

Outdoor Science Lab

S U M M ER 2 02 2

MARINA SPOTLIGHT >

BRIDGEPORT, CT

Steelpointe Harbor Marina BY ALEXA ZIZZI

PERCHED ON A PENINSULA in the heart of Bridgeport, Steelpointe Harbor sits along the tranquil shores of Long Island Sound. The 2.8 million square-foot waterfront development boasts a newly constructed harborwalk lined with dining, shopping, luxury residences, and a state-of-the-art marina and service facility. All types of vessels up to 300’ (including wide berths for catamarans) can dock at Steelpointe Harbor Marina while steering clear of bridge passes to Long Island Sound via a 35’ channel. Built in 2019, the new marina features top-of-theline concrete floating docks in a protected harbor with deep channel access. The full-service marina offers 200+ slips, storage and haul-out. Amenities include complimentary Wi-Fi, 30, 50 and 100 amp electric, a fuel dock and boater’s lounge. Repairs, painting and refurbishing services are available at Bridgeport Boatworks located across the harbor.

Walk right off your boat to enjoy a delicious dinner on-site at the awardwinning BOCA Oyster Bar that serves fresh Atlantic and Pacific oysters and traditional New England cuisine. Experience outdoor waterside dining and live music throughout the season. “Enjoying a sunset dinner on the patio at BOCA while watching the ferry cruise in and out of the harbor is a must-do,” says Dockmaster Robert De Nigris. “We’re committed to providing you with everything you need from dockage, repairs and fuel to local restaurants, shopping and entertainment — so you will not be disappointed here.” Venture into town across the bridge for local provisions, retail, attractions and venues such as Hartford Healthcare Amphitheater and Total Mortgage Arena, home of the New York Islanders hockey team. For traditional Italian cuisine, check out Ralph-n-Rich’s famous “Sunday Sauce”

or Trattoria ‘A Vucchella’s wood oven pizza. Just a few miles from the marina, you can enjoy lovely parks and greenery such as the state’s largest zoo, Connecticut’s Beardsley Park Zoo, to the north and Seaside Park’s beaches to the south. Be sure to catch popular events and festivals such as the Steelpointe Yacht & Charter Show in June and the Sound on Sound Music Festival in September with headlining acts including Stevie Nicks, Dave Matthews Band, The Lumineers and Brandi Carlile. The marina plans to add more amenities such as airport and event shuttle service, as well as developing 420 units in a new residential area. Stay tuned for updates at bldsteelpointe.com ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/ SteelpointeHarborMarina

S U M M ER 2 02 2

CRUISING ITINERARY > DETROIT TO PORT HURON

OUR ADVENTURES the Great Lakes from Detroit waterfront

BY KATE CARNEY

y husband Tim and I spent 2021 traveling 8,000 miles

around the Great Loop. Like many, we wanted to cruise in Canada, but we didn’t get the green light for entry in time. We were initially bummed, but our mood quickly shifted as we discovered some of our favorite stops on the stretch that kept us in U.S. waters, including our journey between Lake Erie and Lake Huron.

marinalife.com

Wikimedia Commons

BETWEEN Detroit to Port Huron Stop 1: Belle Isle Estimated Mileage: 2 NM Belle Isle is the largest city-owned island park in America, located on the Detroit River between the United States and Canada. The island’s only marina is the Detroit Yacht Club, which has a limited number of transient slips for reciprocal

members, so it’s best to explore while keeping your boat at Milliken Marina. Roughly 1,000 acres, Belle Isle is home to an aquarium, maritime museum, botanical garden, beach, picnic areas and playgrounds that provide a plethora of options to explore. You won’t find great spots to grab a bite to eat, so we recommend stopping at Atwater Brewery on the way back to the marina. S U M M ER 2 0 2 2

Stop 2: Harrison Township, Lake St. Clair Estimated Mileage: 24 NM Often referred to as the Great Lake’s smaller cousin, Lake St. Clair is large enough to easily keep your distance from freighters yet small enough to explore in a day. By boat, you can visit several of the lake’s swimming spots in Anchor and Bouvier Bays (or “Munchies” Bay as the 28

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locals say), popular for their clear water and hard bottoms. After an afternoon of swimming, cruise through the Clinton River and tie up at one of several restaurants catering to a lively boater scene for a drink and meal. Crews Inn is one of our favorites for their fun atmosphere and great food. Lake St. Clair Metropark Marina is a popular spot for transients. The marina is located in the park, so after docking, enjoy the expansive park’s beaches, trails, picnic areas and swimming pool.

Stop 3: Port Huron, MI Estimated Mileage: 44 NM Port Huron is home to the start of one of the longest fresh-water races in the world called the Port Huron to Mackinac Sailing Race, and the port is a charming and boater-friendly destination. Ideal for its central location and friendly members, Port Huron Yacht Club is a great place for tying up, sipping a

Mike Boening Photography/Flickr

Port Huron

Author sampling Detroit-style pizza

Ford Model T

drink at the clubhouse and avoiding the drawbridges on the Black River. Another popular spot is about a mile farther down the river at the 95-slip River Street Marina. Port Huron is home to the Island Loop Route National Water Trail, a 10-mile loop through the Black River, Lake Huron and St. Clair River. Your dinghy is a must through the Black River and for exploring the town and clear waters by boat.

Walk a mile along the Blue Water River Walk that runs along the St. Clair River. Be sure to leave enough time to watch the freighters go by and delve into the area’s history that is shared along the route. Continue a couple of miles farther to Lighthouse Park, where you can enjoy an afternoon at the beach and swim in Lake Huron’s crystal clear water. During a stroll downtown, check out the Knowlton’s Ice Museum of North America to discover the history of local ice harvesting that took place along the Great Lakes. When you’ve done enough activities to work up an appetite, Casey’s is the place for delicious breadsticks and pizza. For a

more upscale option, you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu at The Vintage Tavern. Maria’s Downtown Café offers a hearty breakfast, and Raven Café or Exquisite Corpse Coffee House are great options for a cup of coffee. Kate Carney is a writer and Great Gold Looper who traveled 8,000 miles on Sweet Day, a 31-foot Camano trawler. Learn more about her and her husband’s adventures on lifeonsweetday.com

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/DetroitToPortHuron

S U M M ER 2 02 2

EXPERIENCE BOATING AS IT SHOULD BE, LONG-TERM OR TRANSIENT

AT MAYPORT

AT GOLDEN ISLES (Pictured)

AT LITTLE CREEK

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Brand New Wet Slips 8166 Shore Drive, Norfolk, VA VHF Channel 16 . (757)500-5684

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O R A N G E

B E A C H

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Haven or Heaven Enjoy the experience.

Outstanding On Site Services and Local Attractions

• Exceptional Marina Staff • Upscale Dock Store • 2 Restaurants On Site • Courtesy Cars & Ample Parking - Dockside & Upstairs 'RFNDJH WR · • Saunders Marine Center • Covered Grilling & Picnic Areas • 24 Hour Security • Laundry Center • 6 Bay Fuel Dock • Private Shower & Restrooms • Free Wi-Fi & Cable TV

MOBILE BIG GAME FISHING CLUB

2016 - Best Large Marina 1st Place 2018 - Best Large Marina 2nd Place

2017 - Best Large Marina 1st Place 2019 - Best Large Marina 1st Place

Relax. Every need is met at our beautifully secluded, secure location with coveredd and open slips availabale. Enjoy on site

waterfront dining and shopping as your yacht gets all the attention it needs with on site service and repair. Located just minutes from the Gulf of Mexico at Perdidio Pass and the Intracoastal Waterway

27075 Marina Road • Orange Beach, AL • 251.981.4207 • OrangeBeachMarina.com 30

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Experience Remarkable Our remarkable Lake Erie marinas are ready to serve you! Reserve your slip today!

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Visit portlorainmarina.com Call 440-822-3160

Visit batteryparkmarina.com Call 419-625-6142 701 E. Water Street Sandusky, OH 44870

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Visit northcoastharbormarina.com Call 216-485-2030 1020 E. 9th Street Cleveland, OH 44114

Find a Heavenly Hideaway

SECLUDED ATLANTIC BEACHES Some of the best summer getaways require only the bare essentials: a few towels, sunscreen, and a cooler of cold drinks and snacks. If venturing away from the crowds, unplugged and ready to unwind, is what you’re dreaming about, Marinalife has found idyllic places for you. The following beaches will help you reconnect with nature and discover your happy place in the sun.

BY ELLEN HONEY

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venku.com

on these

DAMARISCOVE ISLAND

Leo Rivas on unsplash

DAMARISCOVE ISLAND, ME As the first island to be inhabited by European fishermen in the 1600’s, Damariscove Island lies six miles from Boothbay Harbor. Because of nesting birds and a fragile ecosystem, the northern half of the 210-acre hourglass-shaped island is restricted. On the southern portion, trails wind along the water’s edge through coastal tundra. The freshwater pond, salt marsh and a cobble beach are perfect for picnicking. At the head of the harbor, a small museum showcases Damariscove’s rich history. A stone pier on the working waterfront welcomes local fishermen. Tie-ups are not permitted here, but the tiny, protected harbor has two courtesy moorings.

BOSTON HARBOR ISLANDS

BOSTON HARBOR ISLANDS, MA Many of the three dozen islands spread over 50 square miles of the greater Boston Harbor basin were populated in the 1800s and later deserted during urban migration. Partial foundations and stone walls remain as relics of long-gone days. S U M M ER 2 0 2 2

Each spot of land has its own appeal. Anchor off Great Brewster Island and trek to the top of 100 foot bluffs for a view of lighthouses across the harbor. The rugged New England coastline and tidal pools of Grape Island, and gorgeous wildflowers on Rainsford Island make brag-worthy photos. Four islands within the park offer moorings, but reserve a spot well in advance. Spectacle Island has a lifeguarded beach as well as breathtaking views from the top of North Drumlin. Graceful granite archways of Civil War era Fort Warren greet visitors to Georges Island. Peddocks Island is appealing for being off the beaten path. Once home to Native Americans, militiamen and prisoners of war, it was used for shooting scenes for the film Shutter Island.

INES P D N A L IS E IR F

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FIRE ISLAND, NY

ASSATEAGUE

When cruising the Great South Bay, be sure to visit Fire Island, a thin slice of land off the south shore of Long Island. A home for diverse plants, animals and people for centuries, it has pristine beaches, ancient maritime forests, high dunes and frequent glimpses of wildlife. Activities on this car-free beach haven include hiking the 40-acre maritime Sunken Forest at Sailors Haven, climbing 182 steps to the top of the Fire Island Lighthouse and soaking up nature on Fire Island National Seashore. Take care not to disturb the piping plover, an endangered migratory shorebird that burrows its nests in the sand of the park beaches. Anchor offshore and wade in, or tie up to the floating dock at Talisman (Barrett Beach). Sailors Haven and Watch Hill Marina are in the park itself.

ASSATEAGUE, MD

SANDBRIDGE BEACH

©iStockphotos.com/Tim Penningto

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The 37 miles of Assateague Island on the Atlantic coastline is part of a barrier island chain extending from Maine to Texas. Assateague Island National Seashore has inviting miles of sandy beaches, salt marshes, maritime forests and an inviting atmosphere, but the real draw is the wild ponies roaming free along the beaches. The animals are thought to be descendants of horses brought to several remote islands in the late 17th century by mainland owners trying to avoid fencing laws and taxation of livestock. Assateague’s horses are tough enough to survive the scorching heat, exuberant mosquitoes, temperamental weather and poor-quality food on this remote, windswept barrier island. They are truly wild and best admired from afar.

SANDBRIDGE BEACH, VA Just a few minutes south of Virginia Beach’s festive three-mile boardwalk is secluded Sandbridge Beach. A spectacular hideaway of pristine sand dunes and dancing sea oats, it’s perfect for unwinding with nature. The beach sits near Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge, home to sea turtles and various bird species, and False Cape State Park. Both have protected areas but welcome kayakers, hikers and fishermen.

MASONBORO ISLAND RESERVE, NC 34

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Just south of the vibrant coastal town of Wrightsville Beach, one of the great hidden gems of the southeast is Masonboro

MORRIS ISLAND, SC Morris Island’s secluded 840 acres embody the unique ecosystem of the Lowcountry. Located at the mouth of Charleston Harbor and accessible only by boat, the island is actively protected by naturalists and historians, but is constantly under threat of development. Some deep drop offs in the channels between sandbars make for great shore fishing around the area. Weekend partiers prefer the northern end, while the southern part has hiking trails, peaceful beaches and prime views of the historic Morris Island Lighthouse. Morris Island has a violent history. In the 1700s, marauding pirates used it as a hideout. And some of the most heroic and consequential battles of the Civil War took place here. Of all the ghost tales told here, it’s been said that some are whispered by the ghosts themselves.

CUMBERLAND ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE, GA Georgia’s largest and southernmost barrier island is located six miles east of St. Marys. Primal maritime forests, wide marshes and unspoiled beaches hum with the tales of previous residents. Indigenous tribes, missionaries, slaves and affluent tycoons have all passed through here. Over 9,800 acres of Cumberland Island is designated wilderness. You’ll find more than 50 miles of trails for hiking and birdwatching, as well as 18 miles of beach for swimming and beachcombing. Rent a bike and pedal around the island with a stop at Dungeness Ruins, the remnants of steel magnate Thomas Carnegie’s mansion. The island is only accessible by boat. As the only commercial establishment on the island, Greyfield Inn offers access to 18 miles of beachfront and dockage to its guests.

marinas.com

NC HAMMOCKS BEACH STATE PARK,

MORRIS ISLAND, SC

CUMBERLAND ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/SecludedBeaches

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silver77 ©iStockphotos.com/Wil

Hammocks Beach State Park, known locally as Bear Island, is an untouched beach area accessible only by boat. Try visiting in the late spring or early fall to avoid sweltering heat and overzealous mosquitoes. The park rents kayaks, canoes, and paddle boards for exploring the Bear Island Water Trail or just meandering marshy waterways. There are no marked hiking paths, but wander through beautiful maritime forests, secret tide pools and endless mudflats. It’s a great place for shell hunters, bird watchers and dolphin lovers.

thedyrt.com

HAMMOCKS BEACH STATE PARK, NC

MASONBORO ISLAND RESERVE

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Island, an essentially pristine barrier island and estuarine system. Masonboro Sound’s nutrient-rich waters are an important nursery area for fish including flounder, pompano, menhaden and bluefish. The beaches along the north and south sound side of the island are the best landing spots for boats. Trails lead crossisland to the beach where visitors can trek along miles of undisturbed ocean shoreline. Inland on the dunes, grassy flats, marsh grass and eelgrass beds, use care that the vegetation and the habitat of nesting loggerhead and green sea turtles are not disturbed.

Sue Thompson/Flickr

DESTINATION > NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ONTARIO

Discover the Charm of

Niagara-on-the-Lake BY RICHARD KERN

ucked into the southwest corner of Lake Ontario, Niagara-onthe-Lake is often referred to as the most picturesque little town in Canada. Granted, it may not be as well known as nearby Niagara Falls, but what it lacks in popularity it more than makes up for in beauty and charm. NOTL, as the locals call it, has a long, distinguished history: first as the site of the indigenous village of Onghiara, then later as a settlement for British Loyalists after the American Revolution. In 1792, Newark, as it was then known, became the first capital of the new colony of Upper Canada, where the legislature met for five sessions until the capital was moved to York (later renamed Toronto). The thriving town was burned to the ground by Americans during the War of 1812, but locals refused to abandon the 36

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strategic location, rebuilding and turning it into a bustling commercial center by the mid-1800s with a busy shipbuilding industry, shops, warehouses and stately brick mansions. NOTL’s historic charm is what keeps visitors coming back year after year to stroll the quaint streets, enjoy fine hotels and cozy B&Bs, dine in top-flight restaurants and travel back to a leisurely era. Historic stops include the Old Court House Theatre (1847); St. Vincent de Paul (Ontario’s oldest Catholic Church); St. Mark’s Church (Ontario’s second oldest Anglican Church); McFarland House (oldest building in town, now a museum and tea room); and Niagara Golf Club (oldest continuously operating golf course in North America). Another big draw is the world-famous Shaw Festival, featuring the works of

noted playwright George Bernard Shaw, his contemporaries and plays about the era when he lived (1856–1950). The festival is held every year from April to December, using four NOTL theaters (the Festival, Jackie Maxwell Studio, Royal George and Court House Theatre) and offering more than 750 performances each season. The region’s wineries are also worth a visit, with more than two dozen in the immediate area. The Strewn Winery, located west of Historic Old Town along Four Mile Creek, operates the Wine Country Cooking School, hosts hands-on classes between March and November, and teaches how to prepare recipes with local and seasonal ingredients. ml To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/Niagara-on-the-Lake

Mark/Flickr Mark/Flickr

Miguel/Flickr

Shaw Cafe & Wine Bar

Prince of Wales Hotel

WHERE TO DOCK

WHERE TO DINE

Niagara-on-the-Lake Sailing Club

Cannery Restaurant

905-468-3966 Located on the Niagara River, it’s steps from NOTL’s Historic Old Town. It offers 191 slips, a clubhouse and fuel dock, and has reciprocal arrangements with several New York and Canadian yacht clubs.

905-468-2123 This romantic spot in the Pillar and Post Hotel uses local ingredients to elevate its menu of steaks, chops and seafood, pairing each dish with wines sourced from regional and international vineyards. Try the squash & Granny Smith apple soup or the New York Cajun striploin.

Port Dalhousie Pier Marina

HobNob at the Charles

905-646-5515 Technically in St. Catharines, next door to NOTL, this marina has more than 400 slips equipped with 30-amp shore power and security gates, and accommodates boats up to 100 feet with up to a 14-foot draft. Fees include security, water, Wi-Fi and unlimited pump-out.

905-468-4588 Executive Chef Beil Wang showcases his culinary skills at the Charles Hotel’s signature eatery, emphasizing what he calls “laid back, yet exquisite indulgence” in dishes. The setting is a beautifully restored 1832 manor house that overlooks Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Club.

St. Catharines Marina

Noble

905-935-5522 Located near the entrance of the Welland Canal, this 40-year-old marina can host 185 boats up to 70 feet long with a draw of 5 feet. Facilities include fuel dock, full retail store, snack bar and boat repair services, as well as waterfront camping.

905-468-3246 The Prince of Wales Hotel houses this French-inspired, fine-dining spot. Entrees like the hand-cut pappardelle pasta with pancetta, cream, chardonnay, parmesan, fried duck egg and black truffle salsa are what make it a four-diamond restaurant year after year.

Olde Angel Inn Smuggler’s Cove Boat Club 905-468-3331 Smuggler’s Cove Boat Club is located 1.5 km upstream from NOTL on the Niagara River. It has 60 slips, two mooring fields, club house, BBQ deck and fuel dock. SCBC has reciprocal agreements with many clubs along Lake Ontario on the Canadian and American sides.

905-468-3411 The Olde Angel Inn is one of the oldest pubs in Ontario, built in 1789 as the Harmonious Coach House. You can still see the exposed hand-hewn beams and thick plank floors laid down when it was rebuilt in 1815 after a fire. Expect to find hearty, English-style food and drink, and an ample serving of history.

Treadwell Cuisine 905-934-9797 Since 2006, Treadwell has focused on local, farm-to-table cuisine, showcasing the region’s top artisan producers. Enjoy inventive dishes such as chilled pea and mint soup and honey and roasted duck breast, along with an extensive list of local wines. S U M M ER 2 0 2 2

YOUR MAINE MARINA

For over 50 years, Chicks Marina has been the name synonymous with the Kennebunkport River

207-967-2782 | manager@chicksmarina.com 75 Ocean Avenue, Kennebunkport, ME 04046

THIS OR THAT >

CAPE COD CANAL VS. C&D CANAL

FROM NEW ENGLAND TO THE CHESAPEAKE, WHICH HISTORIC WATERWAY WILL YOU CHOOSE TO EXPLORE? BY ALEXA ZIZZI

CAPE COD CANAL

LOCATION

Cape Cod Canal Main: Imcndbl; Location: Bridge Mk Feeney; History: Wikimedia Commons; Boating: Sandwich Marina, Brad Lowman; What To Do: Buzzards Bay Coalition. C & D Canal Main:u.s. Army Corps Of Engineers; Location: Jeremiah Ewing; History: The Flying Inn; Boating: Skybeing; Whattodo:Skybeing

The 17.5 mile-long artificial waterway joins Cape Cod Bay in the northeast with Buzzards Bay in the southwest. The Sagamore, Bourne and Railroad Bridges span the canal allowing for 135 ft. clearance above mean high tide. Large vessels and cargo ships up to 825 ft. navigate a different route.

C&D CANAL

The Chesapeake & Delaware (C&D) Canal flows 14 miles connecting the Delaware River to the Chesapeake Bay and Port of Baltimore. Extending 450 feet wide, the waterway is one of the busiest industrial canals in America. Its construction created a 300-mile shortcut around the Delmarva Peninsula on the route between Wilmington or Philadelphia on the Delaware River and Baltimore on the Chesapeake Bay.

HISTORY The original plan for the canal began in 1909, but it wasn’t until 1914 that it first opened as a private tollway. Soon after, it was expanded and the main bridges were built. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers took over operations with the Rivers and Harbors Act of 1935, creating the bustling industrial, commercial and toll-free canal it is today.

The birth of the C&D Canal began with settler Augustine Herman’s vision to connect Delaware and Maryland’s two bodies of water during the 17th century. What began as only 66 feet wide and 10 feet deep was largely expanded through the 1920s and 1930s. The canal’s five vehicle bridges and one railroad bridge are now operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

BOATING ATTRACTIONS On each end of the canal, you can find transient marinas such as Taylor Point Marina to the west and Sandwich Marina to the east. Hy-Line Cruises offers the canal’s only historic sightseeing tour. Cape Cod Canal Cruises sails from Onset, MA, and tours the bridges, Massachusetts Maritime Academy, Scusset Beach State Reservation and sites along Cape Cod Bay.

Embark on sunset cruises, craft beer and wine tastings and sightseeing tours with Chesapeake City Water Tours. Transient dockage along or near the canal includes Summit North Marina and Bohemia Bay Yacht Harbor on the west end, Chesapeake Inn Restaurant & Marina, and Schaefers Canal House & Marina.

ACTIVITIES AT THE CANAL The Cape Cod Canal Bikeway runs along both sides and is easily accessible from Buzzards Bay Recreation Area on the mainland side or Tidal Flats Recreation Area along the cape. Near the middle of the canal, observe native wildlife at Herring Run Recreation Area and whales and dolphins in the canal. Check out summer events including the Falmouth Road Race in August and youth sailing programs at Onset Bay Center.

Linking the charming towns of Delaware City and Chesapeake City, the canal offers a tranquil escape with scenic nature preserves, cozy B&B’s, museums and bike trails along the canal. Visit Chesapeake City’s gardens, historic sites, and the C&D Canal Museum.

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SMART BOATER >

The Price of Fun Insider advice about avoiding pain at the pump

cdwheatley

BY BOB ARRINGTON

orld events over the last two years have created a record high interest in recreational boating, but unfortunately they also generated record high fuel prices. To help you understand exactly how various boats burn fuel differently and how to run your boat at its most efficient, we’re turning to Steve Zimmerman, founder of Zimmerman Marine, a highly respected boat yard and boat builder with six locations in the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast. Steve is knowledgeable in all aspects of boat maintenance and design that effect fuel consumption. I had the opportunity to ask Steve recently to dispel some commonly held misconceptions about fuel use in popular styles of recreational boats.

BOB: When boaters talk about fuel consumption, they mostly speak in terms of gallons per hour, not miles per gallon. What’s the difference? STEVE: Many boaters focus on gallons per hour

(GPH); however, in determining how much fuel you use to cover a distance on your boat, we have to bring speed into the equation. For example, if someone asked which is more efficient, a boat burning 11 GPH or a boat burning 22 GPH? The answer is it’s impossible to say without calculating miles per gallon (MPG). 40

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If the boat burning 11 GPH is traveling at 10 knots (nautical miles per hour), we divide 11 GPH by 10 knots to see it is getting 0.9 nautical miles per gallon (nMPG). If the boat burning 22 GPH is traveling at 22 knots, 22 divided by 22 equals 1.0 nMPG. So, in this example, we see that although the difference is minor, the boat burning double the gallons per hour achieves better mileage.

BOB: If people are considering a new boat, are some designs more fuel efficient than others? STEVE: All boat hulls require a certain amount of

energy to move through water. The more easily they move through the water, the less energy is required. The primary factors that influence how easily the hull can be moved include hull shape, length, total weight and drag. Hull shapes are sorted into three basic categories: full displacement, semi-displacement and planing. To determine which offers the best fuel economy, we introduce the most important variable of all: speed.

BOB: So, the faster a boat goes, the more fuel it burns? STEVE: Usually that’s true, but not always. Different hull forms respond differently to the demand for speed.

HOW DO DIFFERENT HULL TYPES VARY IN FUEL USE? The most common hull forms used in recreational boats are:

• FULL DISPLACEMENT Let’s look at some actual numbers from a full-displacement trawler in the 40- to 50-foot range. At a speed of 7.5 knots, if it’s using 3 GPH, that equals 2.5 nMPG? If we push for a little more speed, the fuel burn changes, at 9 knots, burning 11 GPH, it’s down to 0.8 nMPG. Notice that by going just 1.5 knots slower, it’s using 300% less fuel.

Emily Norton

• SEMI-DISPLACEMENT

Aneese

As speed increases, boats move through the water in three basic ways. At slow speeds the boat sits fully in the water, riding between a wave at the bow and a wave at the stern. Full displacement boats live in this zone. As soon as speed increases, fuel burn rises sharply. Semi-displacement and planing hulls can apply more horsepower and begin to climb up onto the bow wave. In this phase the bow rides awkwardly high, and fuel economy plummets. By applying even more power, these hulls ride more on top of the water. The bow comes down, speed increases, and fuel burn levels off. All get

better fuel economy at the slower speeds, but the penalty for higher speeds varies substantially between hull types.

BOB: Generally speaking, going slower saves fuel? STEVE: For all cruising powerboats, when it comes to fuel economy, speed trumps all other factors—but only at slow speeds. At full-displacement speeds going a knot or two slower can double or triple your fuel economy. Among the things that influence fuel economy on planing hulls are the condition and cleanliness of the props and rudders, alignment of shafts, health of bearings and a fouled bottom. Once you are on plane, increases in speed matter far less, but the importance of a clean underbody and running gear matters far more. Don’t be misled by GPH, taking the extra step to calculate MPG, which ultimately determines overall fuel use. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/FuelMangement

Now let’s look at a semi-displacement boat of similar size. If this boat is going 8.5 knots and using 3.4 GPH, it’s getting 2.2 nMPG. If we increase to 10.5 knots, using 14.2 GPH, we’re down to 0.74 nMPG. Once again, going just 2 knots slower increases fuel economy 300%. If we push this boat into higher speeds though, the fuel burn differs significantly. At 15 knots, fuel use goes up dramatically to 23.5 GPH, and our efficiency is down to 0.64 nMPG. At 20 knots, using 35.0 GPH, we’re down to 0.57 nMPG. When more of the boat’s hull is on top of the water, the penalty for increases in speed diminishes dramatically and economy levels off. As speed increases, fuel economy will gradually decline in small increments.

• PLANING Finally, let’s look at a boat designed for speed, a lightweight planing hull. When going slowly at 7.5 knots, burning 2.6 GPH, that equals 2.9 nMPG. When we increase to 11.0 knots, burning 9.2 GPH, that lowers the fuel rate to 1.2 nMPG. At a top speed of 25.0 knots, burning 27.5 GPH, that gives only a small decrease in fuel burn to 0.9 nMPG. Notice that at the slow displacement speeds, a slight increase in speed causes a large decrease in fuel economy. But once the boat is out of the water at planing speeds, a significant increase in speed had a smaller effect on fuel consumption. It should also be pointed out that weight matters, but it matters considerably less at displacement speeds. A full displacement trawler can pack on the cruising weight without much of a penalty. The other hull types won’t pay a penalty at lower speeds, but at higher speeds the additional weight will take its toll. S U M M ER 2 0 2 2

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• Keeps Fuel System Free From Bacteria and Sludge • Improves Fuel Economy and Range • Extra Lubricity Improver Reduces Maintenance • Specially Formulated Fuel Additives Available

Visit www.ValvTect.com or Call (800) 728-8258 for Marina Locations Near You.

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$1999 PER YEAR

HILTON HEAD ISLAND, SC

SHELTER COVE MARINA Dock. Shop. Dine. Play.

Located in the middle of Hilton Head Island across from Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort and just off the Intracoastal Waterway, Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina offers easy access to great shopping & restaurants plus bikes, watersports, golf, tennis & pickleball. The Ship’s Store offers a large selection of apparel, accessories, convenience items & fishing tackle. • Floating docks / vessels up to 150' • Electrical: 30, 50, 100 amp • 9' MLW, well marked channel • Monitor channel 16/71 • 70' transient dock at the slip fuel & pump out services on fuel dock for convenience • Pump-out boat • Restrooms, showers, laundry • Grocery store nearby • Full service yacht maintenance • Wi-Fi internet access & cable available • Seasonal resort shuttle

SHELTERCOVEHILTONHEAD.COM • 1 SHELTER COVE LN, HILTON HEAD ISLAND, SC 29928 • 844-264-0981

CRUISING WITH MEMBERS > KIA KOROPP

Ātea resting peacefully in one of the remote bays of Tayrona National Park

Cruising Cartagena: A Worthy Destination ARTICLE AND PHOTOS BY KIA KOROPP

ROUTE PLANNING CAN SOMETIMES be more about what you choose to miss rather than what you include. Time in country can be surprisingly short for many cruisers, as seasonal weather requires you to plot a destination and move toward it on a relatively strict timeframe. Often you leave little room for detours and deviations. If a country isn’t on your track, it is left in your wake forever. 44

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The problem is, unplanned destinations often crop up and fitting them in can become a priority. Colombia was never a name on our cruising destinations list until we arrived in the Southern Caribbean, but the closer we got to South America the more frequently the name Cartagena cropped up. At the time our focus was on transiting the Panama Canal and cruising the remote Pacific Islands, so detouring to a big city didn’t appeal. However, we were going from low-key islands in the Atlantic to low-key islands in the Pacific, so an injection of high-speed would be a nice change of pace. With a large, sheltered bay, busy metropolitan city, UNESCO World Heritage Site and the vivacious Latin culture, Colombia was our unexpected add-on.

View of Cartagena from Mount Popa, the city’s highest hilltop

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View of the old city walls and modern high-rises of Bocagrande with Club de Pesca Marina in the foreground

As the date for our transit to Colombia neared, rumors started to spread concern. We heard reports of strong winds, poor anchorages and crime off the north coast of Colombia as reasons to avoid the country. The winds that funnel around the coast create a wind acceleration zone, resulting in high winds and steep seas. Would we be driving our boat Ātea into a chaotic washing machine? Colombia has a history of violent crime. Would we lose everything not padlocked to the deck or hidden on our bodies? Everyone spoke of rough anchorages and the need to stay in marinas. Could our budget survive? The more we heard of Colombia, however, the more the sense of adventure outweighed calls for caution. As sailors, how could we not be drawn to a city steeped in piracy, conquest and gold? As travelers, how could we not fall under the spell of a vibrant city thriving behind old, fortified walls? Plus, we’d get a break from our lazy sun-drenched Caribbean beach days to drink “aquadentes” under the twinkling lights strung above Cartagena’s rooftop bars and dance until dawn in the city’s famous salsa clubs. We re-drew the 46

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Kia and John enjoying a rooftop cocktail bar overlooking the old walled city

travel plan for the season and decided to sail for Cartagena. THE OLD AMID THE NEW Cartagena’s dramatic high-rise skyline rose up on the horizon as we closed our two-day passage from Bonaire to Colombia, giving our first indication of the different pace that lay ahead of us. As we entered through the eastern entrance

to Bocagrande, our echo-sounder bounced from 10 to 3 meters, registering an underwater breakwater that was built in the mid-1700s to close off the northern entrance to the bay and force access to Cartagena by sea past the heavily fortified southern entrance. Old military forts that once protected the Spanish from foreign invaders now stood idle, welcoming inbound traffic from

all over the world. Today, Cartagena is Colombia’s main container port and processes around 1,600 vessels each year, including container ships, cruise ships, bulk carriers and cruising yachts. The cannons that point seaward are no longer a threat to foreign interest. Sailing past these 500-year-old fortifications is a reminder that much of Cartagena’s past is deeply woven into its present. Old forts stand beside modern skyscrapers that line the shoreline of Playa de Bocagrande, Cartagena’s version of Miami Beach. Empty turrets stand next to busy modern housing complexes and sections of fortress break way to streets and pedestrian walkways. La Ciudad Amurallada, Cartagena’s historic walled city, is the most well-preserved and complete fortification in South America. As in the past, horse and cart roll down old cobblestone streets; however, they are now interrupted by lengthy traffic jams. Perfectly preserved colonial architecture has been repurposed into swanky cafés, upmarket restaurants, local residences and boutique shops. The 11 kilometers of old city wall are a unique feature, as you can circumnavigate the city by walking on top of them. The old, exposed brick covered in beautifully painted graffiti and covered in brightly blooming jacaranda is a perfect example of how the past has been woven into the present, creating one of the most beautiful cities in the world. We enjoyed every minute of our time in Cartagena. We wandered through San Felipe de Barajas Castle and learned about the constant pirate assaults and colonial invasions, then strolled through the convent and chapel of La Candelaria de la Popa, a beautiful church that sits atop the city’s highest hilltop, Mount Popa. We walked throughout the old walled city a dozen times, seeing popular landmarks from statues of Simón Bolivar and India Catalina that stand in central plazas next to gold museums, theater houses, slave quarters and bull rings held within beautiful colonial buildings. We found a dozen or so Spanish colonial-style churches and cathedrals spread throughout the city. When we were done sightseeing, we

View of the city on approach to Cartagena

Horse and cart waiting for passengers in the old walled city

San Pedro Claver Church with a fruit-wielding palenquera in the foreground

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The family relaxing in a quaint street side café Ātea sailing into one of the bays on Colombia’s north coast

soaked up the colorful Colombian environment. We relaxed in street side cafés, listened to buskers strumming local tunes, window-shopped outside upmarket designer boutiques, ate scrumptious local chow in hole-in-the-wall restaurants and gazed at the provocative murals and graffiti that are displayed throughout the city. While ambling through backstreets and staring at magnificent street art, I remembered the list of reasons not to come to Cartagena, and crime topped the list. When everything around me left me buzzing with delight, I wondered what the negative comments were about. LITTLE REASON FOR CONCERN After gaining first-hand experience, we saw that many of the streets considered too dangerous 20 years ago are now popular hangout spots filled with funky cafes and swanky bars, trendy artisan shops and local art galleries. Rough turned bohemian, and the historically volatile neighborhoods had transformed into a hip, artistic quarter that drew international visitors by the thousands. While I was wary of pickpockets, I had no cause for concern regarding serious crime. Poor anchorages and restrictions to marinas were also mentioned, but we stayed just outside the Club Nautico de 48

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Cartagena marina with our anchor buried deep in the mud. The only rough movement we experienced was created by daily tour boats rushing past us and stirring up significant chop. If you do Cartagena right as a busy tourist, daytime discomfort is irrelevant. By the time you return to your slip, tour boats are tucked in their berths and the peaceful quiet of a flat, calm anchorage surrounded by a city full of sparkling lights presents a view no fancy hotel could match. Regarding caution with strong winds, the place of greatest intensity is the water

between Punta Gallinas and Cabo Augusta. Approach the area with a good forecast, but it requires nothing more than standard good seamanship. The winds can be strong, and the swell can be large, but with a proper forecast you need not avoid the north coast of Colombia. We enjoyed remote, peaceful bays of the Tayrona National Park and the bustle of our anchorage in Cartagena’s busy port, but planned our movement between them with a quick weather check. With time and prudence, entry into the country doesn’t warrant precautions out of the norm.

Ayla walking one of the beautiful secluded beaches in Tayrona National Park, Ātea lying peacefully on anchor in the background

After experiencing Colombia firsthand, we start a new rumor — Cartagena is a fantastic cruising destination. The winds are manageable, safe anchorages are plentiful and serious crime is a carryover from a bygone era. Take your time, check your weather, trust your anchor and go have big city fun. I came to Cartagena uncertain about what lay ahead, but in a matter of days I’d fallen for its charm. I could stay in the area for weeks, months, even years. Given a sturdy A/C unit, I could stay indefinitely. The people are friendly, the topography varied, the cruising options abundant. The city is a living history, blending the old and the new, the past and the present. It is radiant, vibrant and absorbing. Adding Colombia to our itinerary was a fantastic diversion, and if it lays as a detour from your route, do yourself a favor: rewrite the plan. Make sure you don’t look back and see it left behind in your wake. A dog-leg isn’t a detour when it holds all that Cartagena offers. It is the destination.

A perfect example of the integration of Cartagena’s past and present

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/CartagenaColombia

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WOMEN TAKE TO THE WATER In Boating Groups & Clubs BY CAROL M. BAREUTHER

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It’s 5:30 p.m. on a Friday. Do you

know where your wife, mother, daughter or sister is? She might be at the Chicago Yacht Club, launching off in a learn-to-sail lesson in the summer series that’s part of the Women on the Water Program. Or, if she’s in the Florida Keys, you could find her relaxing ashore after a day casting about in a Ladies, Let’s Go Fishing! tournament. Or maybe she’s cruising the Intracoastal Waterway in North Myrtle Beach on a pontoon boat with friends, all members of Freedom Boat Club’s Sisters group.

Ladies Let’s Go Fishing, Aqua Breeze Charters

NWSA sailors

Nationwide nowadays, many groups and clubs are oriented specifically toward female boaters. Some are exclusively for women, others are clubs within co-ed clubs, and still others are part of centuryold all-inclusive organizations that now offer opportunities for the ladies. “A boater is a boater; it’s anyone who loves being on the water. Still, for many years and often today, boating is viewed as a man’s sport. That’s changing as more opportunities become available for women to get out on the water,” says Mary Paige Abbott, the past Chief Commander of the U.S. Power Squadrons, rebranded as America’s Boating Club with 30,000 members — 30% of them women. The century-plus-old organization opened its membership to females in 1982.

Women making waves in boating isn’t new. New York-born Hélène de Pourtalès was the first female to win a medal sailing in the 1900 Olympics. Helen Lerner, who with her husband Michael and friend Ernest Hemingway founded the Bahamas Marlin & Tuna Club in 1936, recorded a women’s first record catch of a swordfish off Nova Scotia. In 1977, Betty Cook landed a first-place finish in the powerboat world championships held in Key West. These examples are extraordinary but only exceptions to the rule that boating is a male-dominated sport. Today, the tide is turning. Take sport fishing for example. About 36% of

Chicago Yacht Club

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WHY WOMEN? Why not? That’s what led Betty Bauman to start Ladies, Let’s Go Fishing! in 1997. Since then, this organization of which Bauman is founder and chief executive officer, hosts weekend seminar series dubbed the No-Yelling School of Fishing, as well as tournaments throughout Florida and abroad. To date, Bauman has empowered more than 9,000 women to sportfish. “I attended ICAST (International Convention of Allied Sportfishing Trades, the world’s largest sportfishing trade show) when I had a public relations agency. The American Sportfishing Association’s director asked in a speech why weren’t more women in fishing? After all, as he pointed out, the sport wasn’t reaching some 50% of the potential market. I thought to myself, women don’t want to feel uncomfortable or get yelled out. So, I came up with a way to teach women the basics. How to tie knots, how rods and reels work, and how to make value assessments when fishing, not just following what their husbands yell at them

A SAMPLING OF WAYS FOR WOMEN TO GET ON THE WATER CHICAGO YACHT CLUB’S WOMEN ON THE WATER chicagoyachtclub.org/adult-sailing/ women-on-the-water FREEDOM BOAT CLUB SISTERS PROGRAM freedomboatclub.com/learning-center/ what-is-a-freedom-boat-club-diva.html

LADIES LET’S GO FISHING ladiesletsgofishing.com NATIONAL WOMEN’S SAILING ASSOCIATION womensailing.org WOMEN ON THE WATER LONG ISLAND SOUND womenonthewaterlis.com

HOUSTON YACHT CLUB WOMEN’S SAILING ASSOCIATION houstonyachtclub.com/ women-s-sailing-assoc

NWSA

Americans who went fishing last year were women, an all-time participation high, according to the 2021 Special Report on Fishing by the Recreational Boating & Fishing Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to increasing involvement in recreational angling and boating.

to do or going down in the galley to make sandwiches,” says Bauman. Women learn differently from men, and that’s the benefit of learning boating skills with and from other women. Just ask Debbie Huntsman, the past president of the National Women’s Sailing Association (NWSA). “My husband and I were taking a learn to sail class years ago. I saw another boat in the distance and asked the instructor, who was a man, what I needed to do to be sure we didn’t have a collision. He answered that it was just like going down the aisle at the

supermarket with a shopping cart; you just know not to hit another cart. That didn’t do it for me,” Huntsman tells. The 1990-founded NWSA is a group of national and international women sailors. It supports its members via everything from a library of instructional videos taught by women, for women, to its annual conference, which features hands-on workshops and on-the-water coaching. “I think women tend to be more meticulous in their learning. They want to know all the moving parts and why they move. They want to do it right and do it perfectly whether men are onboard or not. That’s what I see,” says Karen Berry, VP of operations at Freedom Boat Club (FBC) of the Grand Strand, in Myrtle Beach, SC. FBC offers free boating training and safety education to all members, including those in the 2017-founded Freedom Boating Diva program, which Berry helped to launch. The group is now called the Freedom Boat Club Sisters group, and 40% of the clubs nationwide now have a Sister component. Members enjoy time on the water together, training activities, social events and boatloads of camaraderie.

CAMARADERIE & NETWORKING NWSA

More so than a one-and-done class, many women-centric boating groups and clubs 52

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Ladies Let’s Go Fishing, Costa Morada

feature ongoing and year-round events. A good example is Women on the Water, a club within a club run by the Chicago Yacht Club’s (CYC) Women’s Committee. The group’s Friday night learn-to-sail series in Sonar 23s only takes place during the summer. The rest of the year, the women (an eclectic group of boating-oriented 20-somethings to 70-plus-year-olds, singles and marrieds, professionals and retirees) meet monthly for educational programs, networking events and happy hours. “We’ve done everything from a sunset powerboat tour to admire the architecture of the Chicago skyline to a cooking class taught by the club’s pastry chef. During the pandemic, we continued to meet

Houston Yacht Club WSA

virtually. We had the female president of the U.S. Naval War College speak. We met some of the crew of the Maiden Factor, which is sailing the world to promote women’s sailing, and we had one of our own speak — Maggie Shea, who raced in the 2020 Olympics. The fact that our events fill up and sell out almost immediately tells you there’s a need for this,” says Nancy Berberian, head of the CYC’s Women’s Committee. Similarly, the nearly four-decade-old Women’s Sailing Association (WSA) at the Houston Yacht Club hosts a residential women’s sailing camp. The Windward Bound Camp, one of the first of its kind in the nation, organizes racing,

educational and social events throughout the year. “Our sailing socials allow time on the water with other women in a noncompetitive environment. Yearly, we organize a ‘Sail to High.’ Yes, we wear lovely hats and gloves on the sailboat and dock at someone’s home for tea and trimmings,” says Jane Heron, WSA president. More recently, Women on the Water of Long Island Sound (WOWLIS) was born, made up currently of more than 250 women from 14 yacht clubs in Connecticut and New York who love to sail, race, learn and socialize. “It started as a Supper Series, as a way to connect women across our venues,” says Cathleen Blood at WOWLIS. “Now, there is regularly held one-design racing on Ideal 18s, team and fleet racing events, chalk talks and clinics, summer regattas, frostbiting in the spring, and an annual winter meeting to plan for the year ahead. To participate in most of these events, you must be a member of one of the yacht clubs. In this way, it’s all about getting clubs to commit to training and get more women on the water. There’s a real advantage. Say there’s a race I want to sail. I’m never stuck for crew. I have a pool of over 200 women, whether I know them or not, I can ask. We’re all united by a shared love of sailing.” To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/WomenOnTheWater

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LEG

R OU

Y HARB AC

RINA

Welcome

Downtown Fort Myers, FL

735 Casa Loma Blvd.

561-735-7955

BoyntonHarborMarina.com

VALVTECT FUEL & MARINE DIESEL FULLY-STOCKED SHIP STORE DOCKSIDE SERVICE 54

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Floating Docks Daily, Monthly, Annual Slips Live Aboard Facilities High-Speed Internet Heated Pool Showers & Restrooms Hotel & Suites Shops & Restaurants Nearby Length to 100’+ 7’ Draft

Tel: 239.461.0775

legacyharbourmarina.com

Centrally located at mile marker 357 on the Intracoastal Waterway, the Grande Dunes Marina is one of the finest marinas on the ICW. With 126 wet slips and 1,200 linear feet of lay-along floating docks, the marina offers a protected harbor for vessels up to 120 feet or more.

A M E N I T I E S Gas & Diesel Water/WiFi • Pumpout Dock • Grocer y Nearby

Ship’s Store Restrooms / Showers • Laundr y • Restaurants Nearby

•

BOOK NOW WITH 843.315.7777 8201 Marina Parkway Myrtle Beach, SC 29572 grandedunesmarina.com 33° 45' 54.756'' N | 78° 48' 47.232'' W

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WEEKEND WARRIOR > DELAWARE BAY

Lewes, DE, Penn’s

Henlopen State Park

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to Landing, PA BY ELLEN HONEY

TUCKED AWAY BETWEEN the Chesapeake Bay and

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Atlantic Ocean lies a 782-mile estuary called the Delaware Bay. It’s often overlooked by boaters dashing off to the beaches, but if you’re looking for charming towns and historic waterways, the Bay is a pleasant cruising destination. The marshy wetlands along its lower shores provide an ideal environment for growing oysters and offer sanctuary to migratory birds, horseshoe crabs and other aquatic life.

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Quiet and dignified, charming and friendly, Lewes is a secluded town full of history and treasures awaiting discovery. Ramble along the picturesque village streets lined with boutiques and waterfront eateries. Olive & Oats is a local favorite for breakfast and lunch. The baked oatmeal and creamy Spanish-style hot chocolate jump-start the day. Unique salads and sandwiches top the lunch menu. Regardless of the time of day, finish with one (and one to go!) of their infamous derby bars. From appetizers to entrees, the Pig and Publican menu items reflect global influences. The bar features craft beers with a Belgian slant from local and international breweries. Nestled in the heart of town, nine historic buildings of the Lewes Historical Society tell the story of Lewes through the centuries, emphasizing its relationship to the sea. Explore the buildings during the Walk Through Lewes’ Early Past weekend tours. The city manages two docking options. The Marina at Canalfront Park accommodates boats from 12 to 120 feet on floating 58

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docks; 1812 City Park has 200 feet of floating dock. Where to Dock: The Marina at Canalfront Park

Day 2: CAPE MAY, NJ Lewes to Cape May — 14 NM America’s “Oldest Seaside Resort” has mastered the art of aging gracefully. The entire city is a National Historic Landmark with roughly 600 beautifully preserved Victorian buildings, and it’s as fresh and appealing as ever. The town covers three square miles,

Where to Dock: South Jersey Marina

Day 3: DELAWARE CITY, DE Cape May to Delaware City — 49 NM A full-service marina and boatyard, Delaware City Marina has floating dock

Cape May Beach Avenue from the sea

Beach House: John B. McCreary

Day 1: LEWES, DE

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34 Gurney Street

dotted with quaint Victorian B&Bs encompassed by wide verandas adorned with rocking chairs, and the neighborhood is easily walkable. The historic district and evening ghost tour use trolleys. A promenade parallels Beach Avenue along 2.5 miles of inviting sand. Beachcombers on Sunset Beach search for Cape May diamonds, or small pieces of quartz crystal that can be polished and cut to resemble the real thing. Spend the day bird watching, touring historical sites or shopping at the three blocks of boutiques at the outdoor walking mall. Whale watchers are pleased to discover these majestic creatures can typically be spotted year-round. The Cape May area hosts several wineries including Willow Creek Winery & Farm. The 50-acre vineyard, surrounded by ocean and bay, enjoys a unique microclimate reminiscent of Bordeaux. For more French influence, head to Provence where classic and modern dishes are served with a whimsical flair. It’s housed in a handsomely renovated 1854 mansion evocative of a French provincial chateau. Or wind through the foliage-lined slate path to 410 Bank Street Restaurant set in a historic 1840 carriage house. Lazily turning ceiling fans suffuse the fragrance of French New Orleans cuisine with a dash of Caribbean zest.

slips, a ship store and gift shop. The marina is the focal point for this quaint, historic, working seaport, just three feet above sea level and protected by a sea wall. Delaware City covers 1.6 square miles with several buildings representing historic architectural designs: the Federal style of the 1820s, Delaware’s Italianate “Peach House” buildings of the 1850s, and the catalog mail-order homes of the 1920s. In July, Delaware City Day honors its “small town America culture” with a parade, fireworks and entertainment. The Reggae Roots Music Festival celebrates Caribbean tunes on the waterfront in August. Most dining choices revolve around fresh seafood. Wiso’s Crabs is a seafood market with steamed crabs to go. In season, Kathy’s Crab House & Family Restaurant serves American classics with a focus on Chesapeake Bay blue crabs. Head to Crabby Dick’s for seafood dishes and sweet-spot homemade desserts. Why resist stepping next door for an old-fashioned

Delialah Elizabeth Burns

Penn’s Landing

scoop or two at the Ice Cream Parlor? A half-mile ferry ride takes visitors to Pea Patch Island and Fort Delaware. A granite and brick Union fortress originally built to protect the ports of Wilmington and Philadelphia, the fort once housed Confederate prisoners of war. Active during the Spanish-American War, the fort was again lightly manned during World War I and at the outset of World

War II. During its entire history, Fort Delaware has never fired a shot in anger. Away from the fort, remote marshes of Pea Patch Island provide an outstanding habitat for one of the largest wading bird nesting areas on the East Coast. Nine different species of herons, egrets and ibis summer here. Where to Dock: Delaware City Marina

Day 4: PHILADELPHIA, PA Penn’s Landing outdoor eatery

Delaware City to Penn’s Landing — 31 NM Running the length of Center City’s waterfront, Penn’s Landing always has something fun happening from festivals, concerts and parks to restaurants, yoga and skating. Beyond the hip glitz of the waterfront development lies the workingclass city of Philadelphia, rich with history and fabulous cuisine from around the world and, of course, the mighty Philly cheesesteak. You find a week’s worth of must-dos in the city including Independence Hall, The Constitution Center, Liberty Bell, Philadelphia Museum of Art and The Franklin Institute. Or skip the history and shop the day away on Market or Chestnut Streets, eat your way around Reading Terminal Market, and then head to the ballpark to see the Phillies play.

Matt Stanley

Where to Dock: Pier 3 and Pier 5 marinas at Penn’s Landing To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/DelawareBay

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Crocker’s Boatyard, Inc Shaw’s Cove • 860-443-6304

56 Howard St., New London, CT 06320 www.crockersboatyardinc.com

Transient Dockage Rate starting at $2.50/foot

Floating Docks • Slips for Transients up to 150’ 24’ x 44’ Inground Pool • Marine Supplies, Ice, Laundry Pumpout • Gas & Diesel • 35 & 75 Ton Travelift • Fiberglass Repairs • Mechanical and Hull Repairs Winter Storage - Inside & Outside Short Ride to Casinos • Restaurants within walking distance

Family Owned - 5 Generations

NAVIGATE TO A GREAT CAREER OPPORTUNITY Exciting, well paying jobs available in the boating industry

For more information on career and scholarship opportunities visit:

www.MassBoatingCareers.com

Industry growth through Collaboration, Communication & Education Mass Boating Careers is owned and operated by the Massachusetts Marine Trades Educational Trust.

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PORT PERSONALITIES >

TOM RYAN Marina Director Provincetown Marina Provincetown, MA What prepared you for a job in the marina industry? After working in the boating industry for 20+ years and staying in several marinas while owning and working on vessels, I feel like I can anticipate the needs of boat owners, and I am well-equipped to accommodate them. Tell us about your experience captaining the Roseway for the World Ocean School. My experience was life changing. Being in charge of an historic schooner vessel like Roseway taught me patience. Making a positive daily impact on the kids at World Ocean School was some of the most rewarding work I’ve ever been a part of in my life.

Dori Arrington

Where do you like to send people for an authentic dining experience when they arrive at your marina for the first time? I like to send people to the Lobster Pot. It’s a Provincetown institution that’s been

in operation since 1943. From its iconic neon sign to the lobster rolls — it can’t be beat! Where is your favorite place to relax on your day off? I would definitely say Long Point Beach is a favorite. The shuttle from MacMillan Pier drops you right in the sand. You plop your chair down and relax while watching boats exit and enter the harbor. Name your top three favorite boating songs on your playlist. “Chan Chan” by Buena Vista Social Club, because it’s just a relaxing song and it reminds me of my early days in Key West, “Second Hand News” by Fleetwood Mac — this song, to me, screams summer! But if you’re out boating here in Ptown, you can’t go wrong with “Old Cape Cod” by Patti Page.

If you could walk in anyone’s shoes for a day, who would it be? Ernest Shackleton, the great Antarctic explorer of the early 1900s. Having the courage and resolve to lead his team from certain death to safety was a remarkable and inspiring story. What is your favorite part of the day at the marina? “The Golden Hour” – when all our guests are situated and relaxing means we’ve done our job! What is the one thing that everyone should do or see in Provincetown? This artistic town is known for its nightlife, so catching one of the many shows that are offered here is a must-see! Also, if you miss them on your way in, WHALES! The best way to see them is by jumping on one of the whale watch boats that head out daily to the feeding grounds on Stellwagen Marine Sanctuary.

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DESTINATION > CAMDEN, ME

Camden, ME BY HEATHER BURKE, PHOTOS BY GREG BURKE

rue boaters say the real Maine coast doesn’t start until you reach Penobscot Bay. This is “Down East” from Kennebunkport and Portland. The dramatic stretch of coastline from Camden to Mount Desert Island sparkles with granite shores, dotted with archipelagos of pine-tree covered islands and mountains cascading into the sea. This region offers some of the best cruising ground in the world. Camden is a magical little seaside town in the heart of Maine’s mid-coast. It’s historic but hip. “Where the Mountains Meet the Sea” is their moniker, as Camden Hills and 780-foot Mount Battie stretch down toward the bustling waterfront where this 1769 New England village sits, creating a postcard scene. Camden is super foot-traffic friendly, starting at Harbor Park and the beautiful brick Public Library that graces the top of the bay by the Town Docks. Enjoy a picnic 62

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on the sprawling park lawn; there’s often a craft festival or free concert at the outdoor amphitheater. From the waterfront, stroll the quaint sidewalks leading to cafés, boutiques, craft stores and art galleries, pubs, and surprisingly trendy restaurants. You can hike, bike or drive the toll road up Mount Battie in Camden Hill State Park, which encompasses 5,500 acres and 30 miles of trails. Your reward is spectacular panoramic views of the harbor and Penobscot Bay below. Eaton Point, at the eastern entrance to the harbor, is home to a new LymanMorse yacht facility. Camden remains a working harbor with lobster fishermen, boat builders, ferries and tall-masted schooners taking folks out for scenic sails. Camden hosts festivals throughout the summer season of jazz, film and its trademark Windjammers. In winter, the U.S. National Tobogganing Championships are held at Camden’s namesake

Snow Bowl – our country’s only ski area with views of the Atlantic. Camden is an ideal boater’s gateway with all the services and shops you need in walking distance from the waterfront. Excursions from this protected harbor are countless and legendary. A quick cruise brings you to quiet Lasell Island for a sunset anchorage. Farther on you reach Maine’s Maritime Academy home in beautiful Castine, and the rustic islands o f North Haven, Vinalhaven and Deer Isle. Ultimately you can cruise north and east through beautiful Merchants Row, or the more protected Eggemoggin Reach, to Mount Desert Island, home to famed Acadia National Park, Northeast, Southwest and Bar Harbors. ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/CamdenME

The author on Mt. Battie

Mt. Battie Summit Fort

WHERE TO DOCK

Northeast Harbor Camden Mt. Battie Summit Fort

Bald Head Island Harbor

Camden Public Landing Town Docks 207-691-4314 Contact the harbormaster for overnight slips, limited but in town, and moorings throughout the harbor.

Lyman-Morse at Wayfarer Marine 207-236-7108 Across the harbor on Camden’s east shores, this revamped marina is a half-mile walk to town, with new docks and a marina facility, home of Lyman-Morse Boatyard and 30 slips plus moorings.

WHERE TO DINE 40 Paper 207-230-0111 Relish artful cuisine locally sourced from farmers, fishermen and “foragers.” In an historic wool mill in downtown Camden, it’s comfy but chic. Savor octopus, lamb, mussels, salmon and more with fresh produce and creative sides. Save room for dessert made from scratch. Owls Head State Park Lighthouse

Peter Otts on the Water 207-236-4032 Get your chowder and Maine lobster fix from Chef Peter. This classic setting overlooking the harbor is a Camden staple you “ott” not miss. Open for lunch or dinner.

Franny’s Bistro 207-230-8199 With a neighborhood feel, Franny’s serves up lobster fritters, crab cakes, shrimp dumplings and land-lubber faves, too. A fun menu in a cozy setting.

Bagel Café 207-236–2661 For fresh-brewed morning coffee and daily “boiled then baked” bagels or breakfast sammies served all day.

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Unique Equity Memberships for Purchase with Slips up to 310'! Discover the hidden “jewel” of South Beach! w? o n K u o Did Y

Sunset Harbour YA C H T C LU B

Sunset Harbour Yacht Club is Miami Beach’s only private yacht club that sells equity memberships with berths in perpetuity.

Art Basel International Art Show Annual Miami International Boat Show Le Gorce Golf Course, The Forge and Nobu Restaurant Ocean Drive and South Beach 1 mile away with Bal Harbour Shops Located In Sunset Harbour Shops with 17 restaurants, 10 retail shops, 4 salons, 6 fitness/spa just across the street

Sunset Harbour Yacht Club | South Beach, FL | 305 398 6800 | www.sunsetharbouryc.com 1928 Sunset Harbour Drive, Miami Beach, Florida 33139

D A N F O R D ’S

MARINA SPOTLIGHT > PORT JEFFERSON, NY

Danfords Hotel, Marina & Spa BY ALEXA ZIZZI LOOKING OUT ONTO LONG ISLAND’S Gold Coast, Danfords Hotel, Marina & Spa is a hidden treasure found along the North Shore in a cove off Long Island Sound. The convenient location lies in the heart of Port Jefferson’s historic shipbuilding hub and is the only resort marina along the island’s North Shore. The boutique hotel offers 86 luxurious nautical-themed guestrooms with white colonial-style waterfront balconies and upscale amenities. With a gorgeous ballroom and grounds lined with trees and flowers, it’s an ideal venue for weddings, private parties, business conferences — or simply a tranquil escape. The spacious property boasts more than 100 slips and 730 feet of linear dockage, as well as a 14-slip yacht dock accommodating vessels up to 120-300 feet. Floating docks make up most of the marina with several fixed linear options available. The full-service fuel dock offers

two gas and diesel pumps and another private diesel pump at the yacht dock. Marina guests can enjoy newly renovated showers, access to laundry drop service and free Wi-Fi. Treat yourself to a relaxing session at the hotel’s Butterfly Salon & Aesthetic Spa open Wednesday to Saturday. Connected to the marina, Wave Seafood & Steak restaurant serves juicy NY strips and everything from the land and sea in an elegant setting. The Wave Lounge bar is open late during summer for guests to unwind in the evenings. As soon as you leave the parking lot, you’re just steps away from downtown Port Jefferson’s historic village where you can find entertainment, shops and dining nestled along the water’s edge. Check out Port Jefferson Village Center and Harborfront Park for social activities, historic exhibits, and outdoor movies and concerts. Take the kids to the Long Island Explorium and Bayles Boat Shop to learn about wooden boat building and restoration.

Seasonal members can enjoy a privategated entrance with direct access to lower floating docks from the parking lot. New shower facilities and electrical system upgrades are soon to come. “In 2022, we’ve re-recruited our top dockhands from the past five years to bring our marina guests the best and most experienced team we’ve ever put together,” says James Dunn, dockmaster and marina general manager. “I have to say, this quaint, seafaring Long Island town makes a wonderful boating experience.” Be sure to catch the weekly farmers’ market through the summer, Harvest Fest in the fall or the internationally recognized Charles Dickens Festival in the winter. This year, Danford’s Marina began a three-year renovation plan that will culminate in 2024. Stay tuned for updates at danfords.com ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/DanfordsMarina

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ECO-FRIENDLY BOATING >

LAKE ERIE Once branded a dying body of water, now the ultimate “fixer upper” BY TERI MILLER

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upper” usually refers to a property that requires restoration to meet its full potential. Many of our cruising grounds could easily be referred to as “fixer uppers,” as enumerable rivers, lakes and coastlines need serious restoration. The impact of human activity on an ecosystem can be devastating. Restoration efforts can offset and redeem bodies of water once written off as beyond hope. One such transformative example is the story of Lake Erie. Once considered an almost dead body of water, it has become a thriving boating and fishing destination. The Lake Erie drainage basin borders Canada and four U.S. states: Ohio, Pennsylvania, Michigan and New York. The shores of Lake Erie are intensively developed with industry, agriculture, urbanization and sewage treatment plants. The plight of Lake Erie may be demonstrated in a quote from Dr. Seuss. Written in 1971, The Lorax highlighted environmental neglect and pollution. It included this line, “They’ll walk on their fins and get woefully weary in search of some water that isn’t so smeary. I hear things are just as bad up in Lake Erie.” This Great Lake had a well-known pollution problem. Those who attempted to enjoy its waters recreationally were careful to not ingest the water, only swam in shallow areas treated with bleach, rinsed off immediately after contact and never ate fish from the lake.

Mike Toler/Pixabay

In real estate, the term “fixer

Lake Erie Lighthouse

Mike Elnicki catching coho salmon on Lake Erie

Since the 1800s, a lack of governmental oversight led to unchecked dumping of chemical pollutants, waste and pesticides into the lake and its surrounding tributaries. Floating mats of algae, oil slicks and rancid debris made much of the waterway unsafe for swimming or fishing. Lake Erie’s contributing rivers were so congested with oily industrial waste that river fires were common. In 1969, sparks from a nearby train track ignited a fire on Ohio’s Cuyahoga River. While one of the river’s smaller fires (extinguished in under 30 minutes), it ignited a national awareness of the

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SMOKE ON THE WATER

Presque Isle Waterworks Lighthouse

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INCREMENTAL & MONUMENTAL CHANGE

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Land’s End

Presque Isle State Park, Leslie Beach

Lake Erie shores and islands are prime boating destinations. Marinas with transient dockage are plentiful and land-based adventures abound. Whether looking to explore new towns, hike nature trails or fish, boaters will find Lake Erie to be accommodating. Today, Lake Erie boasts some of the best fishing in the Great Lakes. Recent studies show anglers favoring Lake Erie to other Great Lakes by over 10%, making it a popular fishing destination. One of the more sought-after fish is the walleye, and the lake is now home to more than 100 million of them. Steelhead, a migratory rainbow trout, attracts anglers from across America, and small mouth bass are a staple game fish. But is it safe to eat what you catch here? While all Lake Erie fish are safe to eat, not all are safe to consume in unlimited quantity. Residual toxins from Lake Erie’s more polluted days remain. Anglers seeking to make a meal are mindful of recommended consumption based on the species and size. Lake Erie has seen great restoration strides but is not without ongoing concerns. Algal blooms continue to plague the waters and require monitoring and advisement for water safety. Invasive species, such as the zebra mussel, are another battle for environmentalist. Introduced to the Great Lakes through the ballast of trans-Atlantic ships, the zebra mussel has no natural predator. The good news is that the zebra mussels provide a natural filtration process that may help clean water. The bad news is

that without a natural predator, these fast-reproducing mussels are clogging up pipes and water intakes. Water treatment facilities, and power plants are dealing with potential outages and expensive maintenance. Lake Erie’s ongoing restoration involves working across state and international boundaries and using multiple and varied organizations as well as those who live around the lake. The agricultural industry surrounding Lake Erie is tasked with restricting phosphorus use. Residents in urban areas avoid using products with phosphorus ingredients. Because these efforts are voluntary, educational and public awareness campaigns, they are vital to support restrictive practices and promote responsible use. Funding and grants are used to research reducing harmful farm runoff with minimal impact on the industry, monitor algal blooms and tract sources as well as upgrading water treatment technology. Restoration projects can be long, frustrating and discouraging. Lake Erie’s story is one to give us hope as we wade through the ongoing efforts for other “fixer-upper “restoration projects on our nation’s waterways. Oh, and about that Dr. Seuss quote… 14 years after publication, Dr. Seuss removed the reference to Lake Erie from The Lorax in a nod to the success of Lake Erie’s efforts.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/LakeErieRestoration

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pollution problem. Time magazine covered the fire in an article along with photos and statistics. Readers were stunned. Reports of billions of gallons of inadequately treated waste from industries, farmlands and residential areas spurred public outcry. The U.S. government responded by passing the Clean Water Act of 1972. Passage of this act enabled localities surrounding Lake Erie to regulate industrial and wastewater discharge and released funding to update waste management infrastructures in communities. Lake Erie saw an immediate positive impact from these actions, yet the issue of toxic algae blooms remained. Lake Eire is bordered by extensive farmland, golf courses and suburban communities. The result is a significant amount of fertilizer, particularly phosphorus, entering the lake through runoff. Phosphorus creates a nutrient overload, increasing toxic algal blooms. These blooms deplete oxygen levels, carry harmful cyanotoxins and kill fish. A turning point for Lake Erie came in 1972 with the establishment of the Great Lakes Water Quality Agreement between Canada and the United States. This binational effort specifically targeted phosphorus reduction. New laws reduced use of phosphorus in detergents and encouraged regulated agricultural use. New sewage treatment plants were upgraded and expanded. By 1980, the result of these changes become evident, beaches were re-opened and once depleted fisheries roared back to life.

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CRUISING THROUGH HISTORY >

The Fishy Side of

Ocean 72

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With its sandy beaches and boardwalk attractions, Ocean City is the quintessential family summer

vacation destination. It’s also a popular spot for sport fishermen and boaters traveling up and down the East Coast. But it wasn’t always that way.

Ocean City was established on a barrier island

called Assateague that extended 60 miles from the

Indian River Inlet in Delaware to Chincoteague, VA. The section of the island belonging to the State of

Maryland had no outlet to the sea, and early visitors came to bathe in the surf and take in the fresh ocean

breezes. These travelers arrived by ferry boat from the mainland until 1876 when a wooden trestle train bridge was built.

City, MD BY JAMES R. BARNETT

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WORLD-CLASS OC 2022 FISHING TOURNAMENTS OCEAN CITY TUNA TOURNAMENT July 8-10, octunatournament.com Entering its 35th year, this has become the world’s largest tuna tournament with more than 100 participating boats and a record payout that eclipsed $1 million in 2021. WHITE MARLIN OPEN August 8-12, whitemarlinopen.com First held in 1974, the WMO is inarguably the highlight of the Ocean City fishing tournament calendar. Now the biggest and richest billfish tournament in the world, the WMO drew 444 boats and 3,500+ contestants last year. POOR GIRLS OPEN August 17-20, poorgirlsopen.com Launched in 1994, this is the largest ladies-only billfish release tournament benefitting breast cancer research. Despite its charitable overtones, the tournament is all about the fishing, and hundreds of boats and hundreds of competitors take it very seriously.

Vintage shot of OC marlin

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A FIERCE STORM CARVES OUT A NEW INLET

In August of 1933, a hurricane came ashore in Norfolk, VA, and tracked up the the Chesapeake Bay, bringing up to 10 inches of rain per day and flooding the back bays to the west of Ocean City. Oceanside, wind and waves destroyed homes, hotels and businesses on the boardwalk. When the storm subsided, the railroad bridge and fish camps had been washed away, replaced by an inlet 50 feet wide and eight feet deep that formed when built-up water driven by high tides rushed east over the barrier island from the swollen back bays to the ocean. Mother Nature did what governments wouldn’t do, and it changed Ocean City forever. It didn’t take long for officials to take advantage of this event and enlarge the inlet to ensure its permanence. As a result, a commercial harbor, marinas and docks

Austin Kirk on Flickr

In its younger days, Ocean City was half resort town and half fishing village. The fishing was “pound fishing,” a style I’d wager few people today have ever seen. It was practiced originally by Native Americans and became popular in the 19th century along the East Coast from Maritime Canada to the Carolinas. Pound fisherman used wide nets attached to wooden poles to catch fish. They drove these tall poles into the ocean floor about a half mile from shore, creating permanent structures called pounds. When fish entered the open end of a pound, they were then corralled by the nets and couldn’t escape. With no passage into the Atlantic, crews of Ocean City fishermen needed to launch 40-foot boats from the beach directly into the ocean and row out to the pounds. To harvest the fish, the crew would remove the ends of the nets from the poles and pull them up by hand. The fish were brought back to shore, carted across the island, packed in barrels of ice and shipped via railroad to fish markets in Baltimore, Philadelphia and New York. It was laborious work, and for years local businessmen petitioned state and federal agencies to create a manmade inlet to connect the bay directly to more fertile fishing grounds farther off the coast.

THE ORANGE CRUSH: A COCKTAIL BORN ON THE OC DOCKS

fish and attract more attention to Ocean City, local fishermen launched the White Marlin Open in 1974. Fifty-seven boats entered that first year. By contrast, the 2021 Open drew 444 boats, more than 3,500 contestants – including NBA superstar Michael Jordan – and awarded $9.2 million dollars in prize money making Ocean City the undisputed “White Marlin Capital of the World.” Ocean City today counts eight marinas, 20 fishing tournaments and numerous charter boats. According to the city council, boating and sportfishing are significant economic drivers bringing tens of millions of dollars annually to the local economy. So, whether you’re a hardcore sport fisherman, casual angler or a boater who simply enjoys a cocktail dockside at sunset, there’s something for everyone “Goin’ downy O, Hon!” as native Marylanders like to say about a visit to their beloved Ocean City. To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/FishyOceanCityMD

Courtesy of James R. Barnett

began sprouting up around the inlet and across the bay on the mainland. Most fishing was commercial in those immediate post-hurricane years, but a few captains realized the recreational fishing potential in the shoals and fertile canyons offshore that were teaming with billfish and other species. During World War II, a lack of fuel and the presence of German U-Boats in the Atlantic virtually shut down offshore fishing. Things picked up after the war, and by the late 1950s and 1960s more and more fishermen were coming to Ocean City. But it was the white marlin that really put Ocean City on the sport fishing map. A challenging fish known for its beauty, the white marlin wows anglers with its speed and jumping antics. These fish travel in packs and are prevalent in Maryland waters in late summer and early fall. Sport fishermen have been chasing white marlins off the coast of Maryland since 1934 when President Franklin Roosevelt visited and caught two of the feisty billfish. To celebrate this exceptional

The Orange Crush is a staple cocktail in most Maryland bars. It’s basically a screwdriver with a shot of triple sec and a splash of lemon-lime soda. The secret to a good one, though, is freshsqueezed orange juice. And there’s no place better to try one than the Harborside Bar & Grill in Ocean City where the cocktail is said to have originated on a slow night in 1995 when a couple of bartenders were bored and playing around with a bottle of orange-flavored vodka. Harborside is a wooden establishment whose backside opens onto the commercial harbor in West Ocean City. Gritty is the word that comes to mind. As you would expect, the sign out front boldly announces the home of the Orange Crush, as do newspaper articles framed on the walls and t-shirts for sale. Inside, people pound crabs and watch the Orioles play baseball. Ceiling fans whirl, and it smells of Old Bay and French fries. White lights strung across the ceiling add a festive touch. It doesn’t get more Maryland than that. To try your first Orange Crush, visit Harborside Bar & Grill, in Ocean City, MD, 410-213-1846, weocharborside.com

Author drinking an Orange Crush

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SPECTA

SPA A Tour of America’s Great Bridges

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CULAR

ANS BY RICHARD KERN

They come in all shapes and sizes, lengths and locations, ages and angles. For boaters, America’s coastal

bridges are a fairly common sight, one that

often goes unappreciated and undervalued, especially when most of us only get to

see them up close from underneath —

a unique perspective not often enjoyed by the general public.

Here are the stories of nine

of our country’s famous bridges that span America’s frequently traveled waterways, along with fascinating facts that you can share as you sail under or drive over them.

Jenna Lee

CHESAPEAKE BAY BRIDGE

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Steven Oldak

BROOKLYN BRIDGE BAY BRIDGE MARINA

Perhaps the world’s most recognized span, this 139-year-old granddaddy of bridges took about 13 years to construct, linking Manhattan to Brooklyn and comprising the East River’s first fixed crossing. As the longest suspension bridge in the world when it opened in 1883, its main span measures 1,595 feet and deck rises 127 feet above the river’s surface. Its building was a true family affair, designed by John Roebling who died unexpectedly after an injury he sustained in the early stages of the bridge’s construction. He was succeeded by his son, Washington who suffered a paralyzing case of caisson disease. Unable to supervise construction in person, he directed the work from his nearby apartment using a telescope overlooking the site, while his wife Emily delivered handwritten instruction notes to the engineers. Located between Piers 4 & 5 in Brooklyn Bridge Park on the East River is the new ONE°15 Brooklyn Marina with 100 slips for vessels up to 300+ feet. Estuary, the marina’s flagship restaurant, features new American cuisine, and the park is home to numerous restaurants, shops and cafes. 78

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Bay Bridge Marina

BROOKLYN BRIDGE

CHESAPEAKE BAY BRIDGE (AKA THE BAY BRIDGE)

Soaring above Chesapeake Bay, this dual-span bridge connects Maryland’s densely populated Western Shore with the more rural Eastern Shore, running between Annapolis and Stevensville. The original two-way span opened in 1952; a parallel span was added in 1973 to alleviate congestion. It was only marginally successful. Especially in summer, the bridge is often referred to as “the world’s tallest traffic jam,” packed bumper-to-bumper nearly 200 feet above the Bay. Because of its height, narrow spans, low guardrails and frequent high

winds, the Bay Bridge is cited by some as one of the scariest crossings in America. But to west-bound travels, the sun setting over its tall towers and curved steel girders is a spectacular sight. Located at the eastern base of the bridge on Kent Island is Bay Bridge Marina, which accommodates boats up to 70 feet. Sandy Point State Park Marina awaits on the west side for day use and fueling. Several other marinas are nearby.

CHESAPEAKE BAY BRIDGE-TUNNEL (CBBT)

Hailed as one of the great engineering marvels in the world when it opened in

Evan Todd/Pixabay

CHESAPEAKE BAY BRIDGE The older bridge was constructed in the early 1900s as part of the Key West Extension of Henry Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway. After the Keys section of the railroad was damaged by the Labor Day Hurricane of 1935, Flagler sold it to the U.S. government, which converted it to automobile use. Unsupported sections were added in 1935 to widen it for vehicular traffic, and the railroad tracks were recycled, painted white and used as guardrails. Near the center, the bridge rises, providing a 65-foot clearance for boat passage in Moser Channel on the ICW. The remainder of the bridge is considerably closer to the water’s surface. Several marinas are on the Marathon end of the bridge.

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE unsplash

FLORIDA KEYS SEVEN MILE BRIDGE 1964, the original CBBT required the construction of four artificial islands, two miles of causeway, nearly six miles of approach roads, two-mile-long tunnels, four high-level bridges and 12 miles of trestle. It crosses the Chesapeake Bay between Cape Charles on the Delmarva Peninsula and Virginia Beach on the mainland. The CBBT crosses two key East Coast shipping lanes. High-level bridges were initially proposed to span these channels, but the U.S. Navy objected to a bridge over one of the channels, because a collapse could cut off the Norfolk Naval Station from the Atlantic.

Cape Charles Yacht Center and Cape Charles Harbor Marina on the west side of the Delmarva Peninsula put you in the middle of the quaint shoreside town of Cape Charles and its charming shops, restaurants and accommodations.

FLORIDA KEYS SEVEN MILE BRIDGE

Among the world’s longest bridges when it was built, Seven Mile Bridge connects Knight’s Key in the Middle Keys to Little Duck Key in the Lower Keys. Actually two bridges, the newer span is open to vehicular traffic; the older is only for pedestrians and cyclists.

Named one of the Wonders of the Modern World by American Society of Civil Engineers, the 1.7-mile bridge was the world’s longest and tallest suspension bridge when it opened in 1937. Originally designed by engineer Joseph Strauss in 1917, the final design was conceived by Leon Moisseiff, engineer of New York City’s Manhattan Bridge. The relatively unknown residential architect Irving Morrow designed many of the bridge’s Art Deco features, but his most famous contribution was its unique color, international orange. Others preferred that it was painted aluminum, dull gray, and the U.S. Navy suggested black and yellow stripes to ensure visibility by passing ships. The water under the bridge is often turbulent, given the clash of the silt-heavy S U M M ER 2 0 2 2

Michael Melone

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GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE Bay waters and the cold Pacific Ocean currents. Consequently, recreational and commercial traffic are carefully monitored and regulated. Looking to dock and dine nearby? Try the north end of the bridge. Le Garage at Schoonmaker Point Marina in Sausalito serves innovative French cuisine, and at the casual eatery, Fish, place an order at the counter and sit at one of the picnic tables overlooking Clipper Yacht Harbor. The engineering marvel often called “Mighty Mac” is the longest suspension bridge with two towers between anchorages in the Western Hemisphere, with a shoreline-to-shoreline length of five miles. Opened in 1957, it took three and a half years to build, because Michigan’s harsh winters limited construction to the summer months. Engineers faced daunting challenges. The Great Lakes freeze during the winter, causing large icebergs to place enormous stress on the bridge’s base. The total length of wire in the main cables is an amazing 42,000 miles, enough to wrap around the Earth nearly twice. Painting the bridge takes seven years; when workers finish, they immediately start again. Locals note that the current in the Straits of Mackinac frequently changes direction, and when combined with wind-blown waves, churn from passing freighters and rebound off the bridge pilings, boating under and near the bridge can be challenging. 80

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MACKINAC BRIDGE

MACKINAC BRIDGE St. Ignace on the Upper Peninsula has a full-service public marina with 136 slips and is close to shops, cafes and restaurants, like the Mackinac Grille & Patio Bar.

SUNSHINE SKYWAY BRIDGE

One of Florida’s most iconic sights, the current Sunshine Skyway Bridge opened

in 1987 and is the second bridge of that name on this site. The striking cablestayed span connects the St. Petersburg peninsula to Terra Ceia, just north of Bradenton. The original bridge opened in 1954. A similar structure was built parallel and to the west of it in 1969 to make it a four-lane bridge. In 1980, the freighter MV Summit

SUNSHINE SKYWAY BRIDGE

TACOMA NARROWS BRIDGE

Venture collided with one of the bridge’s supports during a storm, causing the southbound span to collapse and sending vehicles into Tampa Bay. After the disaster, the northbound span was converted to carry one lane in either direction until the current bridge opened. If you’re headed into Tampa Bay, Terra Ceia Preserve State Park is on your starboard side, a 2,000-acre mangrove forest and wetlands offering kayaking, fishing and nine miles of hiking trails. At the St. Pete end of the bridge, check out O’Neill’s Marina near Maximo Park.

iStockphotos.com/Ingus Kruklitis

George Stewart

TACOMA NARROWS BRIDGE

The name Tacoma Narrows Bridge has been given to three different incarnations of this span connecting the city of Tacoma with the Kitsap Peninsula to the west. The original bridge opened in 1940 and spectacularly collapsed just four months later due to design flaws that resulted in what was termed “aeroelastic flutter.” It was replaced by the second Tacoma Narrows Bridge in 1950, which is still used for westbound traffic. A third parallel span opened in 2007 to carry eastbound traffic. The collapse of the original bridge — nicknamed Galloping Gertie — had a major impact on the field of bridge aerodynamics, which influenced the design of all the world’s long-span bridges built since 1940. The newsreel footage of the collapse can still be viewed on YouTube today. Just south of the bridge you find Narrows Marina with transient docks that offer 375

linear feet of three-hour complimentary guest side ties and 13 overnight moorage slips. The Narrows Brewing Company and Boathouse 19 restaurant are steps away.

VERRAZZANO-NARROWS BRIDGE

This massive suspension bridge connecting Brooklyn and Staten Island opened in 1964 after decades of on-again off-again planning and five years of construction. Each tower is made up of more than a million tons of metal, one million bolts and three million rivets. The four main suspension cables are 36 inches in diameter, and each is composed of 26,108 wires totaling 142,520 miles in length. Due to thermal expansion of the steel cables, the upper roadway’s height is 12 feet lower in summer than in winter. The double-decker bridge carries 13 lanes of traffic, seven on the upper level and six on the lower level. Both the upper and lower roadways are supported by trusses that stiffen the bridge against vertical, torsional and lateral pressure — thanks to lessons learned from the Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse in 1940. Fort Wadsworth, at the Staten Island end of the bridge, is one of the oldest military installations in America, built in the early 1800s to protect the Narrows. In 1994, the U.S. Navy turned Fort Wadsworth over to the National Park Service. To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/Bridges

VERRAZZANO-NARROWS BRIDGE

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Floating Docks 25 & 70 Ton Travel Lifts Fuel & Pump Out Full Service Yacht Yard Pool, Fitness Center & Sauna Coming soon!

Come for the sunset, stay for the season!

337 Pier One Road Suite 102 Stevensville, MD 21666

410.643.3162 baybridgemarina.com

Dock at the Soul of the Shore! Cambridge, MD Full-Service Marina Gas & Diesel Fuel Restaurant Carry Out & Delivery 410.228.4031 cambridgeyachtbasin.com

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CAPTAIN’S TIPS >

Solo Boating Reasons It’s not Worth the Risk BY BOB ARRINGTON

From the social gathering

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of fellow boaters at yacht clubs and marinas to enjoying the pleasure of friends and family aboard a boat for an outing, boating is better as a shared experience. Yet I have encountered over the years, several boaters who choose to own and operate a boat by themself.

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In boating parlance, “short-handed” means you’re operating a boat with fewer crew than is ideal. “Single handed” takes that one step further by running the boat by yourself. Beginning in the early 19th century, a small group of intrepid boaters began challenging themselves with (mostly sailing) solo journeys at sea. The concept continues to this day in extreme solo sailing competitions taking place around the world, which require entrants to follow strict guidelines in safety protocols and equipment. The vessels are almost always monitored and tracked by shore-based individuals. This is unfortunately not always the case with less trained individuals operating recreational boats alone. Too frequently, these boats are not set up for single-handed operation, and they are used in congested, popular boating areas. This article focuses on the single-handed operation of medium to large cruising boats traveling long distances, not small runabouts. This is not addressing lone boaters out on the river or bay in their center-console fishing for the afternoon or an individual moving a large boat a short distance from the slip to get fuel and back. Make no mistake, the single-handed operation of any boat comes with added risk, and the prudent solo boater takes extra safety precautions when out alone on the water. When operating a small boat by yourself in local waters, always file a float plan letting someone know where you’re going and when you expect to return, and always wear a life jacket. Take advantage of modern communication technology by wearing a device that alerts other boaters or emergency personnel if you fall overboard or need assistance, and always use a kill device that disables your engine if you fall overboard. Many cite the difficulty of docking a large boat by themselves, as being the biggest issue with single-handed operation, but frankly this should be the least of your concerns. With lines and fenders pre-positioned and the help of dock staff or a slip neighbor, docking can be quite manageable. Add the use of external control stations, or better yet using a wireless remote controller, and this should be the easiest aspect of running a boat by yourself. Especially when single handed, never attempt to dock in high winds or strong currents. Having covered thousands of miles and countless hours at the helm of cruising boats, I can speak from personal

experience that regardless of how well you’re prepared or how capable you are, when out on the water you must expect the unexpected. It could be a blocked thru hull causing an engine to overheat, an engine belt breaking, a critical hose clamp failing, a fuel filter clogging, or accidentally picking something up and fouling the running gear. The list of things that draw your attention away from the helm goes on and on. Handling any of these alone on a boat becomes difficult and potentially dangerous. Even if we set the unexpected aside for a moment, everyone has to eat, drink and relieve themselves. Yes you can prepare snacks or a meal ahead of time, yes some boats have day-heads at or near the helm, but these are still distractions from operating the boat. Just staying alert for hours when single-handing presents enough of a challenge. Also consider the thorny legal issue of single-handing a boat. The International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea (COLREGS) is an agreement between member countries, making up what boaters commonly refer to as “rules-of-the-road.” Any citizen of a country agreeing to these rules is legally bound by them. This is plainly stated in Rule 1(a): “These Rules shall apply to all vessels upon the high seas and in all waters connected therewith navigable by seagoing vessels.” Rule 5 presents your next problem — single-handing a boat. Rule 5 states: “Every vessel must at all times keep a proper look-out by sight, hearing, and all available means to judge if risk of collision exists.” Under normal circumstances, when everything is running smoothly, it is challenging to maintain the “at all times” part of this rule, let alone when something on the boat needs your attention. Granted, single-handed skippers seem to find a way to manage these issues more than they should and most get away with it, but if an accident occurs at sea, solo boaters

When operating a small boat by yourself in local waters, always file a float plan letting someone know where you’re going and when you expect to return.

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open themselves up to significant liability. If a vessel’s master is found to have violated one or more of the COLREGS, they may be found liable for all costs of rescue efforts. This could also include property damages, loss of income, salvage costs and environmental cleanup costs. In the event of a death, even criminal gross negligence charges are not out of the realm. Anyone considering single-handed operation should also be aware they may not be covered by their insurance when doing so. According to Scott Stusek of Gowrie Insurance in Annapolis, skippers operating boats single-handed will likely have violated at least one provision of their policy. All insurance companies have an implied warranty that the vessel is seaworthy. In tested legal cases, seaworthy is defined as the vessel being reasonably fit to perform the services and encounter the ordinary perils of the voyage contemplated, which means the vessel is operated by a suitable crew for the voyage intended. Further on insurance, in a paper written by Steven Wight from the Law Offices of Wright, Constable & Skeen, Wight states, “Whether a boat owner knows it or not, there are two occasions upon which he will warrant to his marine insurer that his vessel and all of its appurtenances are in tight seaworthy condition. No words need to be spoken and nothing needs to be written for these warranties to be conveyed. The warranties of seaworthiness are implied into every hull insurance policy by longstanding principles of marine insurance law. It is important for boat owners to understand these warranties, the manner in which 86

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they are conveyed and the moments they attach, since the penalty for breaching a warranty of seaworthiness is loss of coverage and avoidance of insurance claims.” Wight explains, “Two of the times the warranties are implied are the moment the insured accepts the policy and the second is the moment the insured pulls away from

Anyone considering single-handed operation should also be aware they may not be covered by their insurance when doing so. the dock.” If a boater gets underway single-handed, the insurance company may be within its right to say the owner violated the warranty of seamanship by operating the vessel contrary to International Maritime Regulations. That is a big risk to take. It’s important to reiterate, your policy may not specifically preclude the practice of operating single-handed, but it doesn’t mean you would be covered in an accident. In one instance, a couple owned a boat and had secured insurance with both names on the policy. One day one of them chose to move the boat solo while the other traveled to the destination by land. An electrical fire broke out on the boat, and the owner operating single-handed couldn’t maintain the helm and fight the fire. The boat ended up a total loss.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/SoloBoating

Creativa Images

Based on the owner’s negligence to maintain a seaworthy vessel, the insurance company didn’t deny the claim; they instead refused coverage based on “had we known” you were going to do this, we would not have written the policy. In U.S. courts, the absolute warranty of seaworthiness extends to the appropriate number of crew for the voyage intended. In another recent sad case, a singlehanded skipper suffered a heart attack while operating his trawler in the Bahamas. His boat was found grounded on a desolate stretch of shoreline days later with the engines in gear. Many cruising trawlers have enough fuel to operate for days. What if this unfortunate boater had not been in a confined chain of islands, but rather in the open ocean? His boat motoring along for days with no one at the helm would have been a hazard to other vessels around it. Having interviewed several owners single-handing their boats, most report taking extraordinary steps to minimize time away from the helm. They prepare meals ahead of time and do everything they can to operate safely — but when pressed, they also acknowledge they are taking added risks. They all claim they are being careful but being careful in this situation is OK … right up until it’s not, and you’re not the only one you’re putting at risk. A record number of recreational and commercial vessels are using our waterways and plying the open seas today. When out boating, regardless of where you are or what time of day it is, you will likely encounter other boats while underway. If you want to single-hand your boat over long distances, stop and think about the consequences. A lone boater is adding not only risk for themself but putting all boats around them at increased risk as well. Find a friend or hire a mate to help move the boat. Not only will you be safer, but you may even find it’s more enjoyable. ml

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Dock & Dine on

LONG ISLAND SOUND See if the New York side of the Sound measures up to its Connecticut counterpart

(PART 2)

BY LISA CARRUTHERS

IN MARINALIFE’S SPRING ISSUE, we explored the wonderful restaurant offerings along the Connecticut shore of Long Island Sound (LIS). Of course, the Sound has correspondingly delicious and tempting culinary delights along the New York side as well. In this issue, we will explore them as we make our way from the eastern end of LIS where it joins with The Race and Block Island Sound to its western end approaching New York City. The following destinations offer a sampling of the many fabulous restaurants on Long Island. We also hope they introduce you to the quaint and historic maritime villages that also abound.

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East to West on the Long Island, New York Shore At the Eastern end of Long Island Sound to the south lies Gardiners Bay between the two forks of Eastern Long Island. Many great restaurant options await you here, including Claudio’s in Greenport, Il Capuccino in Sag Harbor, and Inlet Seafood in Montauk.

PORT JEFFERSON Wave Seafood Kitchen Located at Danfords Hotel, Marina & Spa, the eatery serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can find this charming spot on the waterfront near historic Port Jefferson Village and enjoy the delicious results of its “farm to table” concept. danfords.com/things-to-do/ wave-seafood-kitchen-menu

Joey Z’s This is where the locals go in Port Jeff Village. The menu is extensive and eclectic, from Mediterranean to Greek

and seafood to waffles and even fondue. Come for breakfast, lunch and dinner to enjoy indoor and outdoor dining. joeyzsportjeff.com

Tommy’s Place Visit this great family dining spot located just a five-minute walk from the Port Jeff Ferry. Find your favorite among 30+ beers on tap including local craft brews. Guests like the energetic American tavern vibe with some twists on the usual pub fare and seafood. tommys.place

Gourmet Burger Bistro This casual dining eatery is known for good upscale burgers and toppings, plus a creative menu that includes mushroom caps on pretzel roll and specialty drinks. gourmetburgerbistro.com

PJ Lobster House Visit this Port Jeff institution since 1995 that offers fresh and varied dishes. PJ’s supports local commercial fishermen and diggers to provide top quality fish and seafood. Large dining room and sports bar feature plasma

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Danfords Hotel, Marina & Spa

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TVs with a casual and friendly vibe. It’s very popular; reservations suggested. pjlobsterhouse.com

STONY BROOK Mirabelle Tavern The historic Three Village Inn’s elegant eatery offers refined French cuisine in a casual and comfortable setting. Savor French bistro classics with American comfort foods, as well as fresh-meets-French, farm-to-table prix fixe. lessings.com/corporate/ restaurants/venue/mirabellerestaurant-and-tavern

NORTHPORT The Whales Tale Located at Brittania Yachting Center, The Whales Tale reflects the eclectic nautical vibe of the Northport area. They offer craft beers and local seafood such as fish tacos, soft shell 90

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crab and other uniquely prepared dishes. Laid back indoor and outdoor seating available. thewhalestalenorthport.com

The Ritz Cafe Stroll into this unassuming little bar near the waterfront to discover continental fare and a bargain prix fixe brunch (try the crab benedict and a Bloody Mary). Savor the seafood, steaks and pasta, as well as comfort foods for the kids. Choose indoor or patio dining. ritzcafenorthport.com

Bistro 44 Treat yourself to New American cuisine with an elegant, modern and chic ambiance. The classy setting with 1850s woodwork and heated patio offers pre-theater dining steps away from Long Island’s only year-round Broadway music hall, The John W Engeman Theater. bistro44.net

Tim’s Shipwreck Diner Homemade blintzes, pancakes and burgers star at this vintage railroad car diner for breakfast and lunch. Family run for over 50 years, their friendly service and homemade classic food are featured with a nod to updates like cold brew coffee and stuffed crab. sirved.com/restaurant/northportnew_york-usa/tims-shipwreckdiner/616620/menus

HUNTINGTON Il Posto di Joey This classic northern Italian eatery with Tuscan-style decor offers a waterfront view, patio dining and late-night dancing. Run by an Italian family that values old world charm and fine dining that showcases seafood. Great location for lunch and dinner groups. ilpostodijoey.com

Steven Oldak

Long Island Sound

Spoil yourself at this high-end restaurant with surf, turf and brunch at a place with a refined interior and heated deck overlooking the harbor. Business casual attire. Reservations needed. restaurantprime.com

OYSTER BAY Wall’s Wharf Panoramic views of the sound draw fans to this upscale seafood venue in Bayville with beachfront seating. For years, the historical centerpiece in the town has served seafood from the local catch, sushi, baked stuffed clams, and homemade soups to the locals and visitors. Spectacular views. wallswharf.com

MANHASSET BAY

mrregan

Prime Louie’s Grill & Liquors

Marina and historic Port Washington. The kitchen favors seafood and contemporary American cuisine. An outdoor tiki bar features food, tropical cocktails, live music and dancing. The new boat-side service sends a waiter to your boat who serves you on board. lamottas.net

pita pizzas, plus big windows with waterfront views. Sample a unique selection of Mediterranean hot and cold appetizers, salads, dips, entrees and pastries. Freshly prepared sandwiches and wraps are popular. ayhansmarketplace.com

Bosphorus Cafe Grill Louie’s Grill & Liquors Have fun at this iconic seafood spot dating to 1905 with deck seating and bay view, plus an oyster bar, large selection of seafood, weekly bands, mahogany bar, and Saturday and Sunday brunch. Plenty of boat parking (cars, too). louiessince1905.com

La Motta’s Dockside Restaurant

Ayhan’s Mediterranean Marketplace

Festive locale on the water with beautiful views of Manhasset Bay

Take a seat at the roomy gourmet deli featuring breakfast, sandwiches and

This Mediterranean restaurant specializes in authentic Turkish cuisine and seafood offerings such as Branzino, sea bass served fileted or grilled. Bosphorus is a short walk from Manhasset Bay. bosphoruscafegrill.com

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/LongIslandDockDine-Part2

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CHESAPEAKE BAY >

Calendar of Events BY LIYANA IDO

Summer is here, and it’s time to soak up the

sun, visit beaches, learn about boating history and relish the small-town charm around the Chesapeake Bay. Read on for hidden gems and tried-and-true events along the Bay, all the way from Havre de Grace to Cape Charles. Whether you’re a fan of watersports, arts and crafts, street festivals, or coastal cuisine, you’ll find lots of great places to explore.

JULY Yorktown Market Days, Fun in the Sun Market Yorktown, VA July 16 - Fun in the Sun Market; August 6 - National Farmers Market Week Experience a coastal Hampton Roads market on the York River. Check out local produce, meats, seafood, gourmet dog treats, art and more every Saturday this summer, and stop by one of the dates above for a themed, family-friendly extended market. Where to Dock: Riverwalk Landing

marinalife.com

Needpix.com

CHESAPEAKE BAY

Spirit of America

Chesapeake Stand Up Challenge

Havre de Grace, MD July 2

Annapolis, MD July 9

Enjoy this beautiful town through a mid-century Americana lens at the Independence Day festival. You won’t want to miss the Patriotic Pooch contest, 50s throwback entertainers and best of all, derby races on Pennington Avenue.

Sponsored by the Eastport Yacht Club, this open water race has something for all levels. Experienced paddlers can fight it out in the seven-mile challenge, and recreational paddlers will enjoy the 3.5-mile challenge or one-mile Just for Fun race.

Where to Dock: Tidewater Marina

Sea Glass & Beach Crafts Market at Annmarie Solomons, MD July 2

Where to Dock: Eastport Yacht Center

Pxhere

Kick off the holiday weekend at the Annmarie Sculpture Garden & Arts Center’s annual beach-themed market. Browse all things crafty and sea glass at over 50 booths! Where to Dock: Solomons Harbor Marina

Kent County Waterman’s Day Rock Hall, MD July 3 For the first time since 2019, stop by and celebrate watermen who dedicate their lives to working on the Chesapeake! Enjoy a day of family fun, including anchor tosses and a raffle, culminating in the infamous boat docking.

Easton, MD July 7-10 Calling all car, truck and train enthusiasts! This multi-day show is packed with steam and gas engines; antique tractors, trucks and cars; live steam train models; and even a horse pull.

Plein Air Easton Art Festival Easton, MD July 17-24 Plein air painters express their craft from life instead of the studio, so you’ll see artists from across the country painting all around town. Also attend lectures and workshops, and buy art and other goods downtown all week. Where to Dock: Easton Point Marina

Where to Dock: Easton Point Marina

Maryland GovPics/Flickr

Where to Dock: Haven Harbour Marina Resorts

Tuckahoe Steam & Gas Association’s 49th Annual Show

Antique truck

Farmers’ market

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AUGUST Annual Chesapeake Bay Balloon Festival Cordova, MD August 5-7 Wikimedia Commons

Embrace the Eastern Shore summer lifestyle at this family-friendly festival. Feel the adrenaline rush of hot air balloon rides and keep the thrill going on the mechanical bull and bouncy house on land. Drum Point Lighthouse at Calvert Marine Museum

14th Annual Hampton Heat Hampton, VA July 23 Dock at the transient slips in downtown Hampton, then join the landlubbers at Langley Speedway, one of NASCAR’s best weekly tracks, for the annual Hampton Heat races. Where to Dock: Bluewater Yachting Center

Southern Maryland Boat Club Bash on the Bay Leonardtown, MD July 29-31 Since the Calvert Marine Museum opened an exhibit on the golden era of powerboat racing in 2013, this vintage boat club has put on several races a year. Make your way to the historic Leonardtown Wharf to see vintage powerboats in action.

Where to Dock: Easton Point Marina Association Maryland’s Great Chesapeake Invasive Count. Where to Dock: Podickory Point Marina

Annapolis Yacht Club Two Bridge Fiasco Race Annapolis, MD July 31 Cruise to the southern Chesapeake to witness this pursuit style race starting between the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Severn River Bridge. Look out for all types of boats in the competition, and even a foiler or two if you’re lucky. Where to Dock: Annapolis Yacht Club

A Day of Celebration & Remembrance of Harriet Tubman Cambridge, MD August 6 Celebrate Harriet Tubman’s life, bicentennial and antislavery activism on the Underground Railroad just miles from where she lived as a child. Join the commemorative parade through the streets of Cambridge and enjoy local vendors and entertainment at the festival. Where to Dock: Cambridge Yacht Basin

Where to Dock: Combs Creek Marina

Snakehead Summer Slam Things are sure to heat up at the fourth of five tournaments in the 2022 Snakehead Championship Series at Anglers Sport Center. Anglers in kayak shoreline and boating divisions will be up for all kinds of prizes, including one from the Coastal Conservation 1 00

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Harriet Tubman Mural

Chesapeake Bay Program

July 30 Annapolis, MD

Pixabay

Dragon Boat Race

Pirates & Wenches Weekend Rock Hall, MD August 12-14 Presented by Main Street Rock Hall, you can dock at a local bayfront marina for an immersive, family-friendly weekend. The whole family will love the marketplace on Main Street, pirate and mermaid performers, and costume contests, with no shortage of grub and grog. Where to Dock: Haven Harbour Marina Resorts

Solomons Dragon Boat Festival 2022 Solomons Island August 13 Cruise to scenic Solomons Island to watch 30 dragon boat teams compete for glory on the Patuxent River and explore the local vendor village. Arrive the week before and you might catch a Dotting of the Eye Ceremony or even a flash mob. Where to Dock: Solomons Harbor Marina

Leo Wardrup Memorial Cape Charles Cup Regatta Cape Charles, VA August 20-21 Make your way to Virginia’s Eastern Shore for two days of racing on the Chesapeake. While you’re there,

lounge on the Cape Charles town beach, stroll around the retail district and check out Victorian homes in the historic district.

2nd Annual Portsmouth Paddle Battle

Where to Dock: Cape Charles Yacht Center & Marine Services

Whether you kayak or paddleboard as a novice or a pro, or enjoy waterfront live music, food and drink, there’s a place for you in the Paddle Battle on the Elizabeth River. Proceeds will support the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum and Lightship Portsmouth Museum.

7th Annual Coastal Craft Beer Festival Virginia Beach, VA August 27 Spend your Saturday at the waterfront Neptune’s Park, tasting your way through 60+ beers, ciders and seltzers from 30 breweries. Learn about all Virginia breweries have to offer or branch out with some regional or national craft brews. Where to Dock: Rudee’s Inlet Station Marina

SEPTEMBER The Waterfront Festival Havre de Grace, MD September 9-10 Cruise to the northern Bay to round out your summer with this annual festival, kicking off with a lighted boat parade. Enjoy fun for the whole family with fresh crab and seafood, beer gardens, live music, hot air balloons and a youth fishing derby! Where to Dock: Tidewater Marina

Portsmouth, VA September 10

Where to Dock: Tidewater Yacht Marina

TrawlerFest Baltimore Baltimore, MD September 27-October 1 Close out your summer season with PassageMaker’s annual boat show held at Harbor East Marina in the heart of downtown Baltimore. The show hosts impressive in-water selections of new and pre-owned long-rang cruisers, coastal cruisers and of course, tons of trawlers. Free seminars and educational demonstrations are held throughout the weekend. Where to Dock: Harbor East Marina

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/2022ChesapeakeEvents

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Virginia Humanities

CHESAPEAKE BAY

Oyster aquaculture

WHAT’S NEW

on the

Chesapeake Bay BY ALEXA ZIZZI

BAY HEALTH UPDATES & PROGRESS Chesapeake oyster lovers have a reason to cheer this summer as the region’s oyster population reached its highest level in 35 years. The Chesapeake Bay Foundation (CBF) recently chose 10 sites for large-scale oyster reef restoration in Maryland and Virginia, aiming to improve tributaries by 2025. Even though the male blue crab population was down last year, causing prices to go up, the female crab population increased. According to the 2021 Bay Barometer, “Between 2020 and 2021, 1 02

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the abundance of adult female blue crabs in the Bay increased from 141 million to 158 million,” reports CBF. This jump gives a boost to the Bay’s wildlife habitats. To celebrate the success of reef restoration initiatives and the return of a healthy wildlife population, CBF will host the Maryland Rod & Reef Slam in October. This unique fishing tournament awards the biggest catch like traditional tournaments, but also focuses on finding as many species as you can. Prizes go to anglers with the most different species first, then for how long the fish measure.

A BRIGHT FUTURE AHEAD FOR THE BAY To have a healthy aquaculture requires maintaining a pollution-free ecosystem. CBF pioneers marine cleanup partnerships between state and local governments and conservation groups, and it’s crucial to implementing clean water coalitions. This past winter, Congress signed the Infrastructure Investment and Jobs Act through the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) containing a $238 million increase over five years for CBF. Funding was also granted through the EPA for the Clean Water State Revolving

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

Fund, which will contribute to upgrading sewage treatment facilities to reduce the Bay’s polluted runoff. For more info or to get involved, visit cbf.org

Cruise to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum (CBMM) this season to experience fun in historic St. Michaels, MD. Events include an Independence Day celebration of fireworks and entertainment with Big Band Night in July and Watermen’s Appreciation Day on August 14 featuring live music and a “watermen’s rodeo” you don’t want to miss. Go to cbmm.org

CBMM’S WORKSHOPS & EVENTS • “Apprentice for a Day”

shipyard programs

• Mixed-level yoga classes • Artist workshops • Boater safety courses • Kayak paddle programs • Log canoe cruises • Community ecology cruises

Alexa Zizzi

MARITIME MUSEUM HOSTS SUMMER HAPPENINGS

Living Classrooms, Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Park

LIVING CLASSROOMS HOSTS 34TH ANNUAL MARITIME MAGIC

This nonprofit offers interactive educational classes — or as they call it “learning by doing” — to local students of diverse backgrounds and economic means. With two locations serving both the Baltimore and Washington, DC, areas, the organization hosts seasonal maritime youth programs that benefit communities. On September 30, Living Classrooms in Baltimore will celebrate its 34th Maritime Magic event with food, drinks, live music

and seafaring history at the Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Park. Located directly between Harbor East and Fells Point, this site is the former location of the Chesapeake Marine Railway and Dry Dock Company, the first African American-owned shipyard in the country. livingclassrooms.org ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/ChesapeakeNews

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CHESAPEAKE BAY

Chesapeake

Seafood Houses Meet newcomers to the Bay’s waterfront dock-and-dine scene BY SUSAN ELNICKI WADE AUTHOR OF CRAB DECKS & TIKI BARS OF THE CHESAPEAKE BAY

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Bowleys on the Bay

IF THE PANDEMIC HAMPERED YOUR TRAVELS and you

haven’t cruised the Chesapeake Bay for a while, then welcome back to its sunny shores. While you were away, the oyster and rockfish populations blossomed, and blue crabs grew plump in the shallow marshlands. During the past few years, quite a few new restaurants have opened and tapped into the cornucopia of fine local seafood. Some innovative chefs grace plates with creative flavors and ingredients, while others take a traditional path with family recipes handed down for generations by watermen’s wives. Many concoct ways to consume invasive species, such as the blue catfish and northern snakehead, but eateries that nail up a sign declaring “Steamed Maryland Crabs!” attract the most attention. To help you rediscover the bounty of the Bay, Marinalife has handpicked 10 terrific crab shacks and seafood houses for you to explore.

THE CHOPTANK Baltimore, MD In the heart of the historic Fells Point district, The Choptank has risen from the foundation of the 200-year-old Broadway Market. Its menu reads like a culinary voyage around the Chesapeake Bay with steamed crabs, just-shucked oysters, tender mussels, crab soup and fried chicken. On the spacious outdoor deck, sample 20 draft beers while live bands play tunes, and the stars twinkle above the urban skyline. thechoptankbaltimore.com

Maryland

Where to Dock: The Sagamore Pendry Hotel & Dock

BOWLEYS ON THE BAY BAR & RESTAURANT

WATERSHED Baltimore, MD

For a tropical getaway without long-distance travel, Bowleys on the Bay has created a resort destination groove on Frog Mortar Creek in Baltimore County. Push your toes into the sand on 300 feet of beach surrounded by palm trees while sipping a rummy cocktail and listening to a steel drum band. You can watch boats glide into Long Beach Marina or see planes take flight at Martin State Airport as you nibble on fresh local seafood, hearty sandwiches, and meat dishes. bowleysonthebay.com

It’s hard to say what Baltimore loves more — seafood or sports. But if you’d like to indulge in both, head over to Watershed in the Federal Hill neighborhood, which is in easy walking distance from Orioles Park and the Ravens’ M&T Bank Stadium. A menu laced with classic dishes

Where to Dock: Long Beach Marina

Bowleys on the Bay

Atlas Restaurant Group

Middle River, MD

Choptank

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Where to Dock: Inner Harbor Marina

LATITUDE 38 WATERFRONT DINING Annapolis, MD Where the Severn River flows into the Chesapeake Bay, you can order local seafood with a view of boats cruising into Ego Alley, the showplace for vessels visiting Maryland’s state

Choptank

capital. With the new Upper Deck Bar and plenty of event space, this waterfront eatery accommodates groups of all sizes. Take your pick of regional favorites from crab cakes and peel-and-eat shrimp to herb-crusted rockfish and oysters Rockefeller. Chicken, beef and bourbon meat loaf ensure carnivores won’t go hungry. latitude38waterfront.com Where to Dock: Annapolis Town Dock

MARKER FIVE Tilghman, MD

Needpix.com

Every visit to the Bay’s Eastern Shore holds the promise of exceptional seafood along unforgettable waterfronts. From Marker Five’s outdoor patio, you can watch watermen chug along Knapp’s Narrows and marvel as the Tilghman Island Drawbridge rises to let boats pass through. Eagles soar overhead while you peruse the menu of classic Chesapeake fare. It’s almost impossible to resist starters such as Maryland crab soup or smoked corn and crab fritters, and your first bite of pulled pork, buttermilk fried chicken biscuit or pan-fried monkfish will delight your tastebuds. markerfive.com Where to Dock: Knapp’s Narrows Marina & Inn 1 08

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Virginia

PORTSIDE GRILL ON URBANNA CREEK Urbanna, VA Located in the heart of Virginia’s oyster-growing region, this familyowned and pet-friendly restaurant specializes in taking local seafood from the water to the table. At Urbanna’s only waterfront eatery, you can tie up along the bulkhead and kick back on the patio for casual dining with a spectacular view. Crab tots and fresh oysters will whet your appetite for a Southern style meal of crab cakes, shrimp and grits, and chicken stuffed with Smithfield ham and goat cheese. portsidegrillurbanna.com Where to Dock: Regatta Point Yachting Center

DELTAVILLE TAP & RAW BAR Deltaville, VA In a charming cove along Jackson Creek where the Piankatank River flows into the Bay, you’ll find a seafood eatery with an energetic vibe, live music and a nice sampling of craft brews and cocktails. The expansive view from the back deck matches the

Top and oppostite page photos: Atlas Restaurant Group

harvested from the Chesapeake waters entices you to pick a dozen steamed crabs or slurp fresh local oysters while watching games on big-screen TVs. Located in the newly remodeled Cross Street Market, you can belly up to the long wooden bar on the main floor and wash down a platter of Old Bay wings with a cold Natty Boh. Or step up to the roof deck to watch the bustle below on South Charles Street with an orange crush in hand. A casual vibe and live music create an upbeat place to hang out with friends. watershedbaltimore.com

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Susan Elnicki Wade

Atlas Restaurant Group

extensive list of dishes on the menu. Highlights include hush puppies packed with crab and corn, Jonah crab claws, shucked oysters, and Lowcountry boils with crawfish, shrimp and other local catch. Try to leave room for dessert favorites: deluxe peanut butter pie or raspberry cheesecake. dvlrawbar.com Where to Dock: Deltaville Yachting Center

THE SURRY SEAFOOD COMPANY Surry, VA A leisurely cruise up the James River to Gray’s Creek will deliver you to a seafood-centric destination where you can dock, dine and decompress. Surry’s chefs present delicacies from the local waters such as golden fried oysters, bacon-wrapped salmon and flounder stuffed with crab imperial. If

the serene view of the grassy marshlands makes you want to linger longer, spacious hotel suites are available above the restaurant. Boater bonuses: 45 new floating docks, fuel, ship store and bathhouse. surryseafoodco.com

Waikiki wings. Enjoy the restaurant’s upbeat atmosphere and stellar sunsets at the marina. eatatlongboards.com

Where to Dock: The Marina at Smithfield Station

Norfolk, VA

LONGBOARDS AT EAST BEACH Norfolk, VA The green bamboo shoots on the menu’s border give a clue that this restaurant is blessed with a touch of tiki. While seafood standards remain popular — she-crab soup, cod fish and chips, and Old Bay wings — Longboards also takes you on a culinary journey to Polynesia to taste Hawaiian-inspired dishes such as Singapore shrimp with veggies and

Where to Dock: Morningstar Marinas at Little Creek

STRIPERS WATERSIDE The bustle of Norfolk’s recently renovated Waterside District is attracting newcomers from along the Atlantic seaboard. Among the new eateries is Stripers, a seafood haven from the Outer Banks that features 30 beers on tap and a panoramic view of the Elizabeth River. Take a seat on the patio and savor dishes made from scratch, from clams and cod to mussels and shrimp. After a hearty meal, explore the area’s attractions and nightlife. striperswaterside.com Where to Dock: Ocean Yacht Marina or Tidewater Yacht Marina ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/ChesapeakeSeafoodHouses Bowleys on the Bay

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Cruise to Virginia’s Historic Triangle Yorktown, Williamsburg & Jamestown BY CAROL M. BAREUTHER

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magine you were Rip Van Winkle in reverse. You’ve nodded off for 400 years rather than 20. Now, you wake up to find yourself on the deck of a wooden sailing ship off the coast of Virginia. “Your first thought would be to look for a source of freshwater,” tells Steve Ormsby, administrator of The Watermen’s Museum in Yorktown. “Then, it would have been protection, up a river, and at the same time finding deep water where you could tie up to the trees and row ashore. Your fellow passengers would have been tradesmen, merchants and craftsmen, skills needed to establish a settlement but not live in the wilderness. Still, you wouldn’t have gone hungry at first. Captain John Smith wrote in his journal that the oysters he found were the size of dinner plates.” Fast forward to the historic triangle of Yorktown, Williamsburg and Jamestown, which is among America’s first settlements and easy to reach by water. It’s a beautiful sail or motor from the Atlantic Ocean across the Chesapeake Bay to the James or York Rivers. Once here, explore ashore and offshore, too. Here’s a sampling of five top stops.

Photos courtesy of York County, VA

Windmill at the Watermen’s Museum in Yorktown

VISIT THE WATERMAN’S MUSEUM

Located on the Yorktown waterfront, upriver from the Riverwalk Landing marina, dining and shopping area, this nonprofit museum is a treasure trove of nautical history. Exhibits narrate how local watermen helped defeat the British in the Revolutionary War’s Battle of Yorktown with their local knowledge to help pilot the ships, as well as the local watermen’s way of life as commercial fishermen. “One of the focal points at the museum is the Windmill. Built in 1711, it was used to grind corn, but after that it stood as a waymark for ships sailing the York River,”

Schooner Alliance

says Ormsby. In April, the museum re-opened for the season with six new 10-foot by 10-foot kiosks in the Windmill Lot. These interactive displays feature ropemaking, pottery, candle making, boatbuilding and woodwork, sail making, and blacksmithing. The museum also runs an award-winning summer camp, with a pirate-themed environmental camp for kids in grades K to 5, and hands-on camps for those in grades 3 to 8 focused on boatbuilding, an archaeological beach dig and maritime trades. watermens.org

SET SAIL ON THE SCHOONER ALLIANCE

Cast off from Yorktown’s Riverwalk Landing Pier on this 105-foot gaff-rigged schooner. There are three two-hour sightseeing cruises daily. Along the way, see the historic Victory Monument and Battlefield, working watermen plying their trade as they did years ago, and perhaps a modern naval ship or school of dolphins. The Alliance’s sails are set traditionally with block and S U M M ER 2 02 2

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tackle, and passengers are welcome to help. The crew provides narration and sea stories along the way. sailyorktown.com/schooner-alliance.html

TAKE A WALK ON THE RIVERWALK SIDE

You’ll find many historical markers along Yorktown’s Riverwalk Landing, a mile-long pedestrian path from the Battlefield to the American Revolution Museum, making this an educational and entertaining stroll. “Many of the markers involve the water, specifically the Battle of Yorktown and the Middle Passage,” says Gail Whittaker, public information officer for York County, VA. “If you’re lucky, you might see an opening of the Coleman Bridge that crosses the river and joins Yorktown with Gloucester County. It is the largest double-swing-span bridge in the United States and the second largest in the world! The Naval Weapons Station Yorktown is just upriver from our waterfront. It’s awesome to see the bridge swing open as one of our marvelous Navy ships glides by.” visityorktown.org/ 153/Riverwalk-Landing Yorktown Beach

CELEBRATE THE 4TH OF JULY European settlers planted roots in the Yorktown, Williamsburg and Jamestown over a century before the signing of the Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1776 up north in Philadelphia. Yet, it’s the wealth of national history and its preservation that makes this area one of the best places to celebrate this summer holiday.

Independence Day Celebration Riverwalk Landing & Historic Yorktown 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Early birds start the day with a 5K walk or 8K run. The patriotic parade follows with the best viewing spots along Water and Main Streets. Bring your flags to wave and toe-tap to the Fifes & Drums corps beat. At 1 p.m., a hot dog eating contest is hosted by Toby’s Dog House in Jamestown, with a satellite location in Yorktown’s Water Street. Patriotic concerts start after dark, culminating in a firework display over the York River. Watch from the Yorktown Waterfront & Victory Monument at 803 Main Street or anchor out and see the sparklers reflected in the water.

July 4th Celebration

Visit Williamsburg

Colonial Williamsburg 9:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Immerse yourself in all things independence during a day-long of activities. Stand at the Capitol West Balcony to hear Thomas Jefferson read the Declaration of Independence. A special military muster in Market Square, concert of celebration at the Play House Stage, historical reflections re-enacted throughout the day, free ice cream, and live music on the Lawn of the Art Museums culminate in the Lights of Freedom Fireworks Display at 9:20 p.m. The best places for viewing are the East Lawn of the Art Museum, the Palace Green and Market Square.

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Regional Marinas Riverwalk Landing Piers Yorktown, VA The heart of Yorktown’s waterfront is within walking distance of historic sights, shops and dining. There are no individual slips here, but all piers are dedicated to transient and temporary stay boaters. Facilities include shore power in 30, 50 and 100 amp, pump-out and private key coded boater restrooms with showers. No fuel is available. The busiest times are May-June and September-October. To reserve docking, email dockmaster@yorkcounty.gov or call 757-890-3370.

York River Yacht Haven Gloucester Point, VA This Suntex Marinas property is located at the mouth of Sarah Creek, opposite Yorktown, in a 14-acre rural storm-protected area. The full-service facility boasts 280 slips accommodating boats up to 160’. Transients can enjoy amenities including fuel, laundry services, free Wi-Fi and a freshwater pool.

Kingsmill Marina Williamsburg, VA Along the James River, the marina at Kingsmill Resort offers a tranquil getaway with activities on-site. Enjoy everything from lush golf courses to upscale amenities and lodging at Cottages on the James or The Estate at Kingsmill’s private mansion. The marina offers annual slip leases for vessels up to 80’ depending on beam width.

You might not find oysters the size of dinner plates, but you can fill your dish with fresh seafood in Colonial Williamsburg. Try Berret’s Seafood Restaurant & Taphouse Grill, located in Merchant’s Square. There’s she-crab soup for starters, seasonal specialties like lemon pepper-crusted grouper fillet and seared sea scallops, and signature entrees such as The Original Blue Plate: sauteed backfin crabcake, baked oysters Rockefeller and grilled shrimp. The oyster bar features shucked Victory Point York River Oysters on the half shell. berrets.com

Courtesy of York County, VA

SHUCK INTO A SEAFOOD SUPPER

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SETTLE BACK IN JAMESTOWN

Jamestown Yorktown Foundation

There is likely nowhere better for colonial history buffs to spend a day indoors and outdoors than in the living history museum that is this settlement. Films and exhibits portray the lives of Virginia’s Native Americans, the first English settlers, and the initial arrival of West Africans, all three here in the early 17th century. The most fun is to climb on board replicas of the three ships on which the first English settlers arrived at Jamestown in 1607 — the Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery — and imagine you’re onboard. historicjamestowne.org ml

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/VirginiaHistoricTriangle JS Ships navigation tools

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SUNSHINE

INSPIRED.

Visit a place where the adventures are as vast as the sea — Hampton. Soak up the sun and the fun at Buckroe Beach, climb aboard the Hampton Queen for a tour of Chesapeake Bay, or charter a boat to visit the Atlantic Ocean. Savor the moment, and the flavors, with waterfront dining and fresh, delicious seafood. Take a leisurely stroll along the world’s greatest natural harbor, or grab your fishing gear and cast a line from the Buckroe Beach and Fort Monroe fishing piers.

PLAN YOUR TRIP. 800.800.2202 VisitHampton.com

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Marinalife Summer 2022

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e Sounds of Summer

Chesapeake Seafood Houses

Virginia’s Historic Triangle

Chesapeake Bay Calendar of Events

What’s New on the Chesapeake Bay