2 0/20 europe - November 2014
Tailored vision. Available to everyone. Discover the secret behind Hoya’s V+ advanced freeform lens series. With the introduction of an indoor, single vision and additional progressive lens design, Hoya’s V+ range of lenses is now complete, making perfect vision available to everyone. Hoya V+ lenses stand for: • Unsurpassed binocular performance • Tailored to personal wearing conditions • Tailored solutions for every individual Discover more about Hoya’s V+ range on www.hoyaluxid.com
Brand profile Blackfin In detail Invu Interview Yohji Yamamoto Trends Eyebrows
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SUMMARY
What’s on in Europe
Brand Profile BLACKFIN
URBAN SPORT Interview BOLLÉ/Tony Parker
In Detail INVU Shows & Fairs
Interview YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Editorial So Quirkly
Trends Eyebrows
News
European Lenses & Technology
EDITOR’S COMMENT
BEYOND ITSELF Stefano Ampollini •
Editor in chief
•
s.ampollini@fgeditore.it
• We’ve reached the end of this first year of the new 20/20 Europe and the changes have been deep and radical, as you could appreciate. At the beginning we thought there was a need: to report the evolution of eyewear market through a new language and a new style. Technical contents and a modern, attractive and fashionable magazine could live together. We realized that most of the brands had been exactly looking for a tool like this to reveal the results of their efforts in research of new materials and redesign of new forms. In the meantime we go ahead and we want to offer our advertisers a new opportunity to communicate by 20/20 Europe. All our readers can free download the new App and view all the issues of the magazine and videos integrated with our articles. I think this is the best way to celebrate the growth of our editorial presence in eyewear market, just when 20/20 USA has passed the milestone of 40 years. Congratulations to our “big brother”! In this issue we tell you how one of the most technical sectors, the sport, has approached fashion and urban style. Also the sport get beyond itself. Just like us!
MIDO - International Optics, Optometry and Ophthalmology Exhibition - mido.com
Eyewear Show Milan | Feb 28 | Mar 1-2 | 2015
what ’s on in europe
Etro and Marchon signed an exclusive licensing agreement to design, manufacture and distribute the sun and ophthalmic collections Etro Eyewear, available from September 2015
MARCHON
Global licensing agreement with Etro The partnership aims to further increase the already significant position of Etro in the accessories world. "It's a significant debut that represent for us a new challenge, and that gives us new energy. It comes from the need of completeness: the creation of an eyewear line is a further step in our creative and stylistic path, which contributes to the strengthening of our brand identity and heritage" stated Jacopo Etro, Creative Director of the Etro Accessories collections. Claudio Gottardi, Marchon Eyewear President and CEO, commented: "The global licensing agreement with Etro represents Marchon’s strategic goals to expanding our portfolio with compelling European luxury brands. The team at our Italian Design and Product Development Center will work in collaboration with Etro’s designers to interpret and translate the strong identity of the Fashion House, including the iconic Paisley motif, in order to conceive sophisticated eyewear collections featuring the high quality of, “Made in Italy”, manufacturing". The Etro Eyewear collection (shown here, Etro Eyewear illustrated by Ivo Bisignano), 100% made in Italy, will be available from September 2015 in Etro boutiques, in the most renowned department stores, selected optical and special stores worldwide. 8
what ’s on in europe
EVOLUN
ØRGREEN
A temple for every personality
The summit of snow goggles
Evolun presented new innovative frames always with its concept of glasses with interchangeable temples at Silmo. The brand expanded the collection with 6 news models. 034 is a model with metal front that meets the current trends for women in search of originality. 1000 has a modern and feminine front in Grilamid, and a metal bar on the top of the front gives it dynamism and all its character. 012 (shown here) has a front in Grilamid and metal combined, perfect for women looking for originality and with a strong personality. 201 with its two-tone metal front, is thought for teenagers, a first for the brand Evolun. 618 has a nylor front with open-work lug and it is made for men looking for dynamism and elegance. All models are available in 5 colors. For this season Evolun takes also the strong animal theme regrouping 6 printed models in limited edition and a Gold Pack for the very fashion addicts.
This Winter 2014, Ørgreen is launching new additions to its Ski Goggle Collection at selected stores worldwide: the TAMOK goggle, named after Norway's pristine Tamok Valley, an adventure lover's paradise near the Arctic Circle. Each TAMOK goggle comes complete with three different lens colors to equip customers for all kinds of winter condition. All unisex goggles are packed with technical prowess. The frames are produced in Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU), a material which stays flexible at even very low temperatures. They come with a triple-layer moisture wicking face foam which gives a super snug fit for handling high attitude extremes. Add to that dual anti-fog coated lenses with 100% UV (UVA & UVB) protection and a silicone lined strap for a secure helmet fit. All Ørgreen goggles also come with a therma-formed goggle case and a micro fiber goggle bag for storage and protection.
SIMON CHIM
GLASSING
Waterside Labs launches Chimmm for Google Glass
The 1/2 Naked sunglasses collection by Glassing leaves part of its roughness and becomes more refined. The wood effect is combined with grilamid polished and painted by hand. The opaque or slightly mirrored lenses complete these new models with discreet elegance. The brand is currently distributed in more than 1,300 selected optical stores in the world and in some luxury boutiques. Glassing has also two flagship stores in Italy, one in Milan and one in Portofino, where the innovative style of the brand is expressed overall from the interior design to the idea to create unique glasses, custom-made in collaboration with the customers, perfect for their faces and according to their personal style.
Exclusive distributor Waterside Labs gave European customers a sneak preview of this new collection at SILMO 2014. Bob Forgan, Waterside Labs and Vision Technologies Europe Managing Director said: ‘The launch of our new Chimmm for Google Glass 2015 frame and sunglass collections by the innovative Hong Kong fashion designer Simon Chim attracted a great deal of attention in Paris as it showed the importance of combining technology with fashion”. At the show Waterside Labs, under its Vision Technologies Europe brand, showcased an exclusive range of products including its Smart frames for Google Glass and Smart GOLD lens design. Chimmm for Google Glass collection will be available from early 2015.
Discreetly elegant
9
what ’s on in europe
HENRY JULLIEN Classy with elegance
At the last Silmo show Henry Jullien presented the Crystal collection: high-end models for the modern, active women, fashion-conscious without being obsessed with the brand, and yet attracted by the creative know-how combined with a certain technicity. Crystal collection is made by two versions for the front: one acetate and one metal. Both use the same acetate temples, fitted with a superbly efficient and invisible sprung hinge. The temples are each decorated with three Swarovski crystals maintaining presence while remaining elegant, not ostentatious, just classy.
MERCEDES-BENZ STYLE
Modern luxury in the new collection Mercedes-Benz Style and Rodenstock have come up with a new eyewear collection for autumn 2014. Full-rim frames and retro shapes distinguish the five models of sunglasses as well as the new models of the correction spectacles collection. The highlight is the innovative, screw-free "double-action-spring hinge". This perfected hinge provides a spring effect on the one hand, and a snap effect on the other hand, which noticeably prevents wear even after being worn for a long time. The sunglasses feature matt surfaces, extremely light materials, high-quality patterns in combination with a great diversity of nuances and lens colours. The slightly modified pilot shape and the frame colours, which are found again in the mirror coated lenses, complete the luxurious design. The MBS 1040 is new in a classical pilot shape made of metal. The MBS 5029 – extremely light, decorative spectacles in a Carré shape – are available in four classical colours just like all the frames in the new collection.
LULUCASTAGNETTE Rock Attitude
The little Lulu mascot has grown wings and has dressed up both the front and temples with studs. Once again, Opal is delighted with Lulu's spot-on shapes and harmonious colour combinations. A slim, refined model that is very flattering. Little girls will feel they are growing wings! Opal designs and distributes the branded collections Arrow, Catimini, Cars, Disney Princess, Elevenparis, Hello Kitty, LuluCastagnette, New York Yankees, Spider-Man, Tartine et Chocolat, Titeuf, Winnie the Pooh and its own brands Lapö, O plus, Owlet, Pola by Opal and Proximo. 10
whAt ’s on in euroPe
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR Perfection is a detail
Hoff mann Natural Eyewear is made for people who live their individuality. On these frames there is no logo because the eyewear is unobtrusive and should accentuate personality. The design speaks for itself, for character and diversity, for style. Nature provides both the inspiration and the materials for Hoff mann Natural Eyewear. The quality and the unique character of fi ne woods, natural horn and slate are preserved in every frame. The skilled hands and experienced eyes of the Hoff mann Natural Eyewear craft speople create every frame as an individual piece, all made in Germany. Years of experience since 1978 have inspired continuous development. Thanks to its sustainability, wood is the perfect material to work with. The horn instead comes from Asian water buffalo, after the natural demise of the animal.
SPINE
Eyewear with backbone Spine solves complex problems through intelligent engineering. Form follows function, aesthetics are dictated by technology and the solutions their relationship offers. Science takes centre stage: inspired by the interaction between vertebrae, Spine solves age-old hinge limitations. Unemcumbered by traditional parts and manufacturing processes, the brand strive to out-think the competition. Spine hinges grip all day long, morphing to fit any face shape, head size, all with the lightest of touch. Temples open and close smoothly, gradually, without fl icking and traditional “dead” points. There are no screws loose here because there are no screws used in Spine working mechanics. Accidental impacts are glanced off as Spine move in all directions, absorbing and dissipating shocks thus greatly reducing breakage. Each tip is precision laser engraved with the Spine signature pattern, taken from the negative space between the vertebrae: not merely a design detail, because, this also improves grip and reduces slipping.
ROLF
History mixed with design quality The new Evolved collection – 5 years of ROLF Spectacles – encapsulates with the accustomed design quality and elaborate fi nishing. The know-how of the last five years has gone into the new collection which reflects continuous development, motion and growth. The result are ultralight, delicate glasses with clear lines and a design which highlights the precise fi nal sanding and different wood types. The collection boasts 17 new designs in five wood, four special and four stone types. The Foursome 102 is a fi ne example for the new collection. The noble and sleek frame reminds of the English classic car from the late Fift ies. The smoked eucalyptus frame sheds radiance with its shiny surface and wavy texture. 12
BrAnD ProfiLe
BLACKFIN by Nicoletta Tobia
A 43-YEAR-OLD
START-UP We spoke to Nicola Del Din, C.E.O. of Pramaor, at the recent SILMO in Paris. He shared a number of insights into the immediate future of Blackfin, and the secrets of a success story built on tenacity and humility
Keeping in mind the positive trend you announced at MIDO back in March, in broad terms, how would you assess the past year? Nicola Del Din: Things are going so well that [he jokes] I’m beginning to worry. By June we had seen a rise of 45% in orders compared to the previous year, and taking an average from the beginning of the year, we are now 61% up on sales. September saw a genuine boom; we had 2.3 times the orders that we received in the same month last year. It is clear that the path we have chosen – that of excellence without compromise – is the right one. We are a manufacturer that learned to be a distributor, and then even a storyteller. And we are still learning. If we have only reached about 80% of what we might learn in terms of production, in terms of communication know-how, we are only at about 3-4% of where we want to be. What we have to do, and we already know how to do it, is create glasses that are technically at the level of an Aston Martin, and market them the way Apple does when it launches a new iPhone! It isn’t easy, by any means, but as long as you make the effort, you give yourself a chance. And as far as we can tell, our chances are real. All the cards are in place, and we’re confident we can play a very good game.
Nicola Del Din, C.E.O. of Pramaor
14
BrAnD ProfiLe
What do you think is the secret to this success? NDD: Our approach is never to tell ourselves that we have made it. Rather, we’re always just setting out. That’s why I like to describe us as a 43-year-old start-up! We have over 40 years’ manufacturing experience behind us, but we are all young, and we have a young mind-set, tied into an international outlook. This drives us to be much more precise and efficient in terms of the organisational aspects and technicalities of running a company, and pay more attention to standards of service. The key to it all is blending instinct, creativity, an Italian “spark”, with a North-European set-up, and this “micro-multinational” mentality of ours. Is that what you mean by “Neomadeinitaly”? NDD: Current regulations will certify everything except Italian craftsmanship. I’ll go further: sad to say but I think that in 95% of cases, the “made in Italy” label effectively certifies that a product was not entirely made in Italy. Our country deserves better. So we have chosen to use this new term, which serves to represent a new way of working in Italy. It assumes that, at the very least, a pair of glasses has been manufactured entirely in Italy, but it also has implications for the ethics of production, with a focus on workers, and the environment. It is more of a long-term strategy that leads you to act correctly and morally, to adopt a more international mentality.
The new Blackfin Zero EDGE Magnetic, presented at Silmo 2014
There are developments in terms of products, but also in terms of who comes up with them... NDD: We will be strengthening our creative team by collaborating with a designer with whom we have a great understanding, and who works with other companies in this sector. Our own Corrado Rosson is a brilliant designer with a strong technical background. The other designer has a more artistic background, so they complement each other perfectly. This partnership will mean we can bring out a greater number of designs, create “concept frames” and develop products at a more purely creative level. For example, we could even create single pieces for trade events that take our philosophy to its logical extremes and lead the way for future designs, show us the way forward, as it were.
Your particular expertise is working with titanium. What does this material allow you to do, from a technical and a stylistic point of view? And what new developments are you working on? NDD: First of all, titanium means biocompatibility, extreme lightness and flexibility. On the creative front, it allows us to experiment with more imposing forms with minimum weight. I often refer to our titanium Blackfin frames – in the most positive sense – as “super high-tech acetate glasses” because we achieve similar volumes to acetate frames but with a highly technical, precious material. Plus, they capture a current market trend, which is moving towards the use of metal. In terms of innovation, we are focusing on colour, with a view to broadening the range of colour options across our designs.
Given the value that Blackfin places in marketing, what do you have in the pipeline for the coming months? NDD: We are working on a new, multi-phase campaign that will have greater impact than anything we’ve done before. In addition to a shoot in Sardinia, which will tell a powerful, emotional story, we are planning a further day in the studio to produce a more traditional set of fashion images that provide a perfect view of the frames, albeit maintaining the same “mood”. But that’s not all. The photographer will also document the production process. Not with technical photographs, however; what needs to come across is the passion that each individual brings to their work on the product, which comes from years of experience, and which means they have a future ahead of them they can feel sure of. Essentially, we want to tell a positive, Italian story, accompanied by a marketing campaign that will develop over time and explain to ever greater effect what we mean by “neomadeinitaly”. The final, though by no means least important, part of this process will be our stand at MIDO, which we have been working towards for a year and a half. It will be a true designer item in its own right, on the floor of the trade fair, and help raise Blackfin to ever more iconic status...
Every Blackfin frame is entirely designed and produced by them in Italy 15
URBAN SPORT
Sports glasses may still be typified by precise technical specifications, but these days they have a decidedly urban feel which sees them adopted for daily, city-based use
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Nike Vision Rudy Project Adidas Eyewear Vuarnet rh+ Invu
urban sport
NOT JUST SPORT by Alessandra Albarello
From fashion to luxury goods, from design to wearable technology. Sport is pushing into new territory to reach its ultimate destination: the future
O
nce upon a time, an athlete would be the first choice to provide definitive endorsement of sports eyewear. He could vouch for the reliability of the sport accessories and equipment he wore, testing it in the field, as it were. Times change. The concept of sport has evolved, spreading into hybridised, cross-discipline activities and opening up its target market to new enthusiasts. Consider, for a moment, that the Winter Olympics has only recently embraced terms such as ‘freestyle‘ and ‘slopestyle’, as it has found itself needing to adapt to the evolution of sporting activities and become more open to the present reality. Eyewear, too, can now be hybrid, cross-discipline kit that borrows structural and aesthetic elements from other contexts. Sports glasses may still be typified by precise technical specifications, but these days they have a decidedly urban feel, which sees them adopted, at times, for daily, city-based use – for cycling,
for example, or riding a scooter. Research by manufacturers designed to improve performance has also been fundamental in stimulating the evolution of materials and technical solutions. These, in turn, have been adopted for other categories of eyewear, which have certainly benefited from this osmotic transferral of information in terms of their intrinsic value – vitally important for convincing today’s ever more informed and demanding consumers to part with their money. What’s more, the fashion industry has frequently grasped the appeal and practical potential of sporting styles, appropriating forms, materials (just think of neoprene, for example) and identifiable details. In this sense, it takes its inspiration from trends that have arisen spontaneously on the street, principally among today’s true trendsetters: young people. These models can then be converted into collections targeted at higher-end consumers.
18
focus
1950s-inspired sunglasses from the Moncler Lunettes Featuring Pharrell Williams collection
RESEARCH BY MANUFACTURERS DESIGNED TO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE HAS BEEN FUNDAMENTAL IN STIMULATING THE EVOLUTION OF MATERIALS AND TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS
Chanel, for example, has expanded from its traditional domain of fashion and luxury goods into the world of sport. This is thanks, not least, to the fact that the typical Chanel addict is unable to pass up the famous double ‘C’, not even on the pistes, but it is also because accessories such as a Chanel ski goggles really can make the difference, wherever you happen to be. As such, Chanel have come up with a design that is at once glamorous and timeless, yet technically advanced. It is available in a limited range of essential colours (just black, silver and white), while there is also a rimless version with a single, mirrored lens – available in different colours – and an elasticated fabric headband bearing the label’s emblem. Staying in the world of fashion, we might consider Prada something of a forerunner in this trend. A passion for the transoceanic battles of Luna Rossa Challenge, competitor in the 35th America’s Cup with skipper Max Sirena, provided the inspiration for the 1997 collection Prada Linea Rossa. It managed to remain anchored in the world of regattas and races while targeting consumers who could appreciate its understated style without necessarily being sports participants themselves. Even Mykita, one of the hot brands of the moment, has crossed the border between fashion and sport, introducing a new plastic material, Mylon, which won the iF Design award in the "materials" category, while the collection as a whole was conferred the prestigious Red Dot Design Award in the ‘products’ category.
Ski goggles by Chanel
The new Götti ski goggles featuring a mirrored, anti-fog lens
LUXURY, FASHION AND SPORT It is no accident, therefore, that Moncler, while managing to maintain the purely technical and functional traditions for which its down jackets are known, has crossed over into the world of luxury clothing, and has even bypassed the traditional confines of season and geography, expanding its target market with products for all times of the year. To affirm its brand identity in the eyewear market, the first Moncler Lunettes collection, which was presented at MIDO 2013, took as its starting point the company’s own origins and traditions (the 1950s, the earliest mountaineering exploits, the colours of the French flag). It would go on to free itself from any preconceptions that might surround it, with an unexpected collaboration with cult singer and producer Pharrell Williams. It is not unknown for a fashion label to take this path in the opposite direction.
Moncler Grenoble F/W 2014-2015 19
urban sport
Mallory and Bennett designs by Mykita, produced in Mylon with removable side clips and bridge
THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS FREQUENTLY GRASPED THE APPEAL AND PRACTICAL POTENTIAL OF SPORTING STYLES, APPROPRIATING FORMS, MATERIALS AND IDENTIFIABLE DETAILS
Sunglasses from the Prada Linea Rossa range, featuring rubberised temples for increased stability
FROM TECHNOLOGY TO ‘WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY’ We already mentioned that research in the field of sports eyewear has been of fundamental importance, given that it has had significant repercussions for collections beyond this category. These have employed innovative technical solutions to fulfil both the vision of designers and the demands of consumers, with aesthetically attractive designs that manage to be light, functional, practical and durable. Among the designers who have recently been seduced by the charms of the piste, we might pick out Sven Götti, founder of Swiss brand, Götti. It has developed its first line of true ski goggles – trendy and colourful as we might expect – which will take their place alongside its more elegant collections. However, when it comes to sports eyewear, few companies have captured the public’s imagination as well as Oakley. It plans the future from its mysterious, futuristic base at Foothill Ranch in California, with apparent disregard for limitations. Amongst other offerings, it developed the first goggles to incorporate blue-tooth technology.
The limited-edition Scuderia Ferrari Carbon Blade symbolise the collaboration between Oakley and the Ferrari racing team
It has recently returned to its roots by reissuing a number of its most iconic designs, and has focused its energies on enabling its customers to personalise certain models of glasses directly, through its website. Oakley also enjoys a high profile collaboration with Ferrari that began earlier in 2014 and will see it develop designs in tandem with the racing team’s own engineers. Recon Instruments, on the other hand, has staked everything on research into wearable technology. Already a partner of such leading companies as Smith Optics and the aforementioned Oakley, it has perfected a pair of sunglasses they call Recon Jet, and Snow2, a device with a display providing information that can help enhance performance, which can be inserted into a pair of ski or mountaineering goggles. In case we hadn’t realised it already, the road to the future also passes through the world of sport.
Wearable technology in the form of Recon Jet smart goggles 20
interview
Bollé
The collaboration between Bollé and the French basketball star has been recently awarded with the Silmo d’Or in the category Sport Equipment by Stefano Ampollini
Bollé Sport Protective, in collaboration with basketball champion and MVP Tony Parker, has developed the first full line of athletic eyewear for kids. Strongly supported by Tony Parker, Bollé Sport Protective program offers young people full protection and extreme visual accuracy: optimal optical quality of the lenses, anti-scratch and antifog coating, high resistance to frontal impact, lateral shock protection, and 100% UVA and UVB fi ltration
So they studied everything before the Olympic Games? TP: Yes, it was a fast process. They studied and realized the glasses, then they did all the approvals needed. My team and mostly my insurance were very severe about that, they weren’t going to insure me if the glasses weren’t 100% ready.
Coverage protective glasses cost to the public 99 euro without prescription, 149 euro with corrective lenses
How did your collaboration with Bollé start? Tony Parker: It started just before 2012 Olympics. I did hurt my eye in a club with a piece of glass, I almost lost it. I called Bollé and asked them if they could build a pair of glasses that could be good for the forthcoming Olympics. They worked very hard and I played with their glasses in London. After the Olympics they asked me if I would be interested to help kids with eye problems, to show them that you can compete at the high level even if you don’t see very well. It was perfect because I do a lot of basketball camps with kids in the EU and in the US also.
Were you involved also in the design process? TP: No, not too much in the design. It was more about the experience when I was playing: if they were sliding or moving a lot, if there was fog inside and things like that. Two years later your collaboration with Bollé is still active… TP: Yes. It took almost two years to complete the project and launch it on the market. I was pretty surprised when we won the award even if the glasses weren’t available yet. It was pretty impressive. What about the future? Would you like to be more involved in the project? TP: I’ll be more involved as much as Bollé wants. I love working with them and, whatever we can do together to help kids, I’m all for it. 22
25-27 November 2014 - DUBAI WORLD TRADE CENTRE
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urBAn sPort
S WISS E YE WE AR GROUP
by Isabel Pereira
"The market for polarized eyewear continues to grow every year and consumers who have experienced the benefits of a polarized lens will never purchase non-polarized sunglasses again", according to Jerry Dreifuss, CEO of Swiss Eyewear Group (SEG). Founded in Zurich in June 2013, SEG management has decades of eyewear experience and is betting on innovative designs, technology and brands such as INVU, Marc Stone and Rip Curl
W
hat kind of market needs have Swiss Eyewear Group detected that made you create an ultra-polarized sunglass collection? Jerry Dreifuss: When we did a market analysis we found that many brands just had included a few polarized styles in their sunglass portfolio, making it difficult for consumers to be sure if they are purchasing polarized sunglasses. INVU – ultra polarized makes it easy for the customer by having one brand where all lenses are 100% polarized. Furthermore, when looking at the market we realized that other polarized sunglasses are generally positioned at a relatively high retail price point. With INVU – ultra polarized we have created a high quality global brand that is truly positioned in the impulse segment offering at the same time outstanding value for the customer. How would you define your target audience? JD: INVU is the brand for young and young-at-heart customers who are looking for a brand that offers outstanding performance and state-of-the-art designs at an affordable price. Our collections are segmented into a contemporary male and female fashion collection and an active collection for outdoor sports activities as well as a youth collection that includes the very latest fashion trends. A strong kids collection offering the same outstanding ultra-polarized lens with frames manufactured in child friendly materials rounds out the offering for the entire family.
Jerry Dreifuss, CEO of Swiss Eyewear Group
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in DetAiL
What would you say is the commercial potential of INVU to opticians? JD: Creating in-store traffic and building a highly satisfied customer base is the key for every successful optical retailer. Particularly in these economically challenging times it is very important for opticians to have a product supply that fits all of their customer’s budgets. With that in mind INVU offers the ideal platform for opticians to create in-store traffic and attract new customers. A larger and more satisfied customer base is the key to building solid, long-term relationships with customers who will also purchase high value additional services from the opticians in the future such as contact lenses or prescription frames with progressive lenses.
One model of INVU active collection for outdoor sports
When it comes to the design and lens technology, in what aspects is INVU different from Polaroid (since most of the main team of INVU came from Polaroid)? JD: Polaroid produces lenses at their “in-house” manufacturing plant in Glasgow. Swiss Eyewear Group on the other hand has the opportunity to work with the best global lens manufacturers and have them produce the ultrapolarized lens at the highest standards. Our “Swiss” standard and quality control process clearly specifies all aspects of the lens for exceptional lens performance such as polarizer efficiency, UV A, B and C absorption, optical performance, hard coating and cosmetic quality as well as shatter resistance. Outstanding lens clarity and contrast enhancement are further unique characteristics of the INVU ultra polarized lens. On the design side our collections have been created with a fresh and up to date styling with clear collection handwriting and particular attention to details such as special trims and color combinations.
Do you think "strong colours" and "graphic designs on the temples" is what the public is needing on their faces? JD: Th is really depends on the target group. For the younger target group we are currently seeing a trend towards adding a distinctive, fun element into the sunglasses with the addition of stronger colors and graphic designs. When we do this in our INVU collections, it is the job of our designers to achieve this in an harmonic way with graphic patterns that complement the frame shapes and stronger colors that blend in with the sunglass front color, as well as the lens color and/ or mirror flash coating. But there is also a large target group that is looking for more subtle and calm colors on their faces and is interested in making a more discrete fashion statement, for example with a contrasting back-spray on the front or the inside temple. Our INVU collections offer a large range of sunglasses to meet the style needs of both groups. Since INVU is made for woman, man, outdoor and kids and is also positioned in a "affordable price" segment, what kind of brand concept are we talking about? JD: The very core of the INVU concept is to make the unique visual experience of the ultra polarized lens available and affordable to everyone. INVU is the only fully polarized global sunglass brand that offers all its product range in the impulse segment of Euro 45 – 65. Having a coherent, well designed and highly commercial collection is a “qualifier” to be a player in the international eyewear industry. The “differentiator” that Swiss Eyewear Group brings to the table is that we are combining these designs with the unique ultra polarized lens technology at an affordable price and are supporting the collections with an exceptional marketing concept.
ULTRA POLARIZED THE ULTIMATE VISION & PROTECTION
IN_Campaign Poster A2_youth_2014.indd 1
INVU OFFERS THE IDEAL PLATFORM FOR OPTICIANS TO CREATE IN-STORE TRAFFIC AND ATTRACT NEW CUSTOMERS
04.06.14 16:16
INVU is segmented into a contemporary male and female fashion collection and an active collection for outdoor sports activities as well as a youth and a kids collection
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urBAn sPort
THE MANAGEMENT AND DESIGN TEAMS FROM SWISS EYEWEAR GROUP HAVE WORKED IN THE POLARIZED IMPULSE SEGMENT FOR MANY YEARS AND HAVE EXTENSIVE KNOWHOW WHEN IT COMES TO DESIGNING AND PRODUCING THE HIGHEST QUALITY POLARIZING SUNGLASSES AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE
RIP CURL (above) and MARC STONE (below) are two of the new brands in the Swiss Eyewear Group portfolio that will also feature the ultra polarized lens
You are already distributing INVU in more than 50 countries. So, what’s next? JD: Our fi rst and foremost priority is to further strengthen the INVU brand and have INVU ultra polarized by Swiss Eyewear Group become the number one polarizing impulse brand for optical retailers worldwide. We also want to continue to be highly innovative with respect to design and technology. Currently, the prestigious design school (ECAL) in Lausanne, Switzerland, is developing several sunglass models together with our Design Team. Furthermore, we are creating new products that incorporate the world’s smallest UV sensor together with Bitsplitters, a spin-off from the ETH (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology) that patented the UV sensor technology. These are just two examples of our visionary cooperation with cutting edge partners that we want to continue and expand upon as we move forward. Last but not least with the Marc Stone label, a world renowned international designer, and Rip Curl, the global lifestyle brand, we are introducing two very strong new brands to our portfolio that we will offer to distributors and retailers worldwide. Both of these new collections will feature the ultra polarized lens from Swiss Eyewear Group.
How can you maintain a retail price as low as yours and still have so much to offer to INVU consumers and opticians, namely communication or marketing campaigns? JD: When we founded Swiss Eyewear Group we made the commitment to always offer the best value for our retailers and customers and we will continue to stay one hundred percent true to this promise. It is clear that with such a commitment we need to operate Swiss Eyewear Group at “benchmarking” cost efficiency levels. Thanks to the decades of eyewear industry experience of all of our employees and our extensive network of excellent suppliers and distributors, we have been successful in achieving the necessary cost efficiency. When it comes to marketing we are not making any compromises. We are currently investing a high double digit percentage of our revenue into marketing and will continue to do so. Our aim is to become the number one global polarizing impulse brand and in order to do that we will continue to strive for marketing excellence, be it in consumer communication, point of sales design or with the most attractive and innovative tools so consumers can experience the benefits of the ultra polarizing lens technology.
A strong kids collection offers the same outstanding ultra polarized lens with frames manufactured in child friendly materials
WE ARE CURRENTLY INVESTING A HIGH DOUBLE DIGIT PERCENTAGE OF OUR REVENUE INTO MARKETING AND WILL CONTINUE TO DO SO 26
in detail
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SPORT MONCLER LUNETTES
VUARNET
Designed with urban use in mind
Elegant, sporty aviator frame
Moncler Lunettes presented at Silmo a range of 12 new spectacles and 16 new sunglasses, produced entirely in Italy. Titanium supports the acetate front, thereby creating a point of contact between the old style silhouette and cutting-edge technology. There is just one exception: this acetate-only frame created to emphasize the physical nature of the volumes. Designed with urban use in mind, all Moncler Lunettes glasses can withstand the stresses and strains of a high altitude environment, just like the down jackets, for which transversal usage is always combined with fully fledged functionality of the garments.
The Glacier model, first produced in 1957, evoke the aviator glasses that inspired it, as worn by pilots in the 1930s. Initially designed to be worn in the mountains, they rapidly became a part of city life too. The sporty aviator glasses, combining ultra-light metal and Mazzucchelli acetate, feature side shields in shiny pierced leather, a grey interior and metal arms in brushed silver. The side shields and leather cord are detachable, to be more adaptable to the urban landscape. They are available with SKILYNX mineral lenses and also with new POLARLYNX polarizing mineral lenses.
vuarnet.com
moncler.com
OAKLEY
NIKE VISION
A slice of originality to the street look
A sport inspired line of sunglasses
Celebrating the 30th anniversary of Oakley performance eyewear, the Heritage Collection brings back vintage rarities for a limited time: Oakley Eyeshades, Razor Blades and Frogskins will be offered with commemorative highlights and collectible extras. Frogskins is Oakley’s very first dual-lens design. With the Heritage Collection edition, customers will get a collectors pin and sticker, plus a custom Microclear bag. This retro eyewear brings a slice of originality to the street look. The shape is carved right out of sunglass history, and the frame is crafted with contrast earstems that carry one of Oakley’s earliest logos.
Nike and Marchon Eyewear have partnered to engineer the line of sunglasses Nike Lifestyle Suns, featuring patented Nike Max Optics that provide clear, nearly distortion-free vision for a better field of view, including in the periphery. The frames come in six flattering styles and eye-popping colors. Lenses are tinted in hues ranging from classic grey or bronze to fl ash lime or red mirror. The Mavrk style features Nike Max Optics, also for prescription, custom sport wrap shield design, keynote nose bridge, fl ash lenses option, unique snap hinge breaks open to flash branded detail.
oakley.com
marchon.com
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showcase
SOULS ADIDAS EYEWEAR
DEMETZ
High technology and lens innovation
Optical glasses turn into sports sunglasses
The daroga eyewear is made from a robust SPX material that is particularly temperature resistant, flexible and light, while the ribbed temple ends keep the glasses in place without slipping. The scratch-resistant LST Polycarbonate 8-base decentered filters, ensure 100% UV protection even in strong sunlight. The range features a patented hinge mechanism, Quick-Release HingeTM, that ensures that the temples release from the frame instead of breaking if they do get knocked off. In addition, for wearers of glasses and contact lenses, the daroga can be fitted with direct glazing.
The 2F Fusion Faces multisport glasses for skiing, cycling, sea, etc feature 1 solar face and 1 optical face. The interchangeable solar face inserts onto the optical surface and allows to transform optical glasses into sports innovative sunglasses. The model is sold with one pair of lenses: grey or brown polarized (cat 3). Anti-fog lenses optional insert the solar face: yellow or orange (Cat 1), vermilion "golf" (cat 2), brown (cat 3 or 4), grey or brown polarized mirror (cat 3), yellow to grey (cat 1-3), grey or brown polarized + photochromic (cat 2-3).
demetz.fr
adidas.com/eyewear
RH+
RUDY PROJECT
A new collection for city cyclists
Technically cool lifestyle glasses
Technical content and refined design: these are the main features of the new Urban line by rh+. The collection developed by Allison, which includes both glasses and sunglasses, was created by a technical team with a great deal of experience in developing and producing high performance sports eyewear who worked alongside a group of designers with an equal amount of experience in the fashion sector. The frames are made from Hilex, an exclusive ultra-light and flexible material, and Titanio Memory Form. The See HD and See Safe in NXT lenses are Optical Class 1, an official made-in-Europe quality standard.
Lifestyle glasses with a great sporty look which can also be worn when relaxing away from the field of play. Spinhawk use Multilaser Rp Optics sun lenses, developed with a special process in which surface of the lens is given an extremely thin "mirror" treatment; this reduces visual stress and offers total UV protection. They may also be fitted with both the ImpactRx prescription lenses, top-level customized corrective lenses from the Rudy Project range (photochromic and shatterproof, guaranteeing maximum visual clarity and safety), and the Hi Index +1.6, static ophthalmic lenses which are extremely light, thin and resistant.
zerorh.com
rudyproject.com
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shows
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fairs
VISION EXPO WEST: THE PLACE TO BE Preliminary attendance reports indicate the event attracted over 12,500 attendees. More than 450 brands were showcased and attendees were introduced to more than 400 hours of Continuing Education. The annual New Product Showcase unveiled the next generation of frames, sunwear, optical technologies and designer trends
I
nternational Vision Expo & Conference concluded on September 20th at the Sands Expo & Convention Center in Las Vegas, following four days of product launches and a robust education program, proving that the event is the right choice for who want to learn and to buy, at the same time. Preliminary reports indicate the event attracted over 12,500 attendees. More than 450 brands were showcased in an exhibit hall spanning the length of three football fields, and attendees were introduced to more than 400 hours of new and popular Continuing Education developed by a conference advisory board representing the breadth of the field. The annual New Product Showcase, one of the event’s biggest attractions, unveiled the next generation of frames, sunwear, optical technologies and designer trends. This year’s winners: Amphibia Sports, LLC, Avantek Eyewear by Hoya, and Specs of Wood represented attendees top picks for 2014, and helped to spur interest in the variety of innovations found throughout the exhibit hall. To enhance the education experience, this year Vision Expo launched an interactive education format called crowd sourced learning to rave reviews. Crowd sourced sessions put the attendees in control of driving the content they want and need the speakers to cover. By pairing dynamic and diverse speakers with the technology to deliver this new learning platform, the Conference delivered memorable programs that
TO ENHANCE THE EDUCATION EXPERIENCE, THIS YEAR VISION EXPO LAUNCHED AN INTERACTIVE EDUCATION FORMAT CALLED CROWD SOURCED LEARNING TO RAVE REVIEWS
will set the bar for learning in the future. Moreover, the investment in these tools reinforced the influence new technology is having across all aspects of the Vision Expo Experience. “Vision Expo is at the forefront of providing education that directly addresses the questions that eyecare professionals’ are receiving from their patients and customers,” said Tom Loughran, group vice president, Reed Exhibitions. “This year’s new Wearable Technology track is an example of how our education program is evolving based on ongoing attendee feedback that tells us they come to Vision Expo to see new products and the latest technology that is resonating with informed consumers, and that is shaping the future of the profession.”
International Vision Expo West will return to the Sands Expo & Convention Center September 16th-19th, 2015 (Exhibits: September 17th -19th; Continuing Education: September 16th -19th).
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SILMO 2014: CREATIVE ENERGY The international optics and eyewear trade fair in Paris drew to a close in a positive atmosphere. Business volume was strong, despite an economic climate characterised by many international geopolitical tensions along with the regulatory uncertainty affecting the industry in France
symposium enhanced by a number of technical workshops which were greatly appreciated and well attended by opticians. During the fair, SILMO’s President Philippe Lafont and MIDO’s President Cirillo Marcolin have announced a very important cooperation to put the European optics and eyewear industry under the microscope. In order to make it easier to define the industry's expectations and market realities and provide it with a relevant economic development tool, the sector's two leading events worldwide, SILMO and MIDO, have decided to ask the GfK Institute to conduct a 6-monthly survey. This will act as a barometer to measure the economic performance of the European optics and eyewear industry. The 1st report is due in March 2015. Last but not least, for the 21th consecutive edition the jury, chaired by Pablo Reinoso, has assigned the SILMO d’OR awards (see the box below), celebrating creativity and innovation across 8 categories, plus a Jury's Special Award.
SILMO AND MIDO ANNOUNCED A SURVEY TO MEASURE THE ECONOMIC PERFORMANCE OF THE EUROPEAN INDUSTRY Next year's Silmo is scheduled for September 25th – 28th at the Paris Villepinte Exhibition Centre
The Silmo d’Or 2014 winners
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he strike by Air France pilots certainly penalised both French and international visitors, meaning that the number of professionals attending remained very stable, at 33,301 (56% from abroad, 44% from France). The 2014 gathering proved once again that SILMO PARIS is among the keynote events to launch new brands (very high numbers this year), discover new companies from all over the world (more than 150 out of a total of 900 exhibitors) and capture the latest trends courtesy of various forecasting tools (Happy Color, Fashion Style, Mo by Silmo etc.). It also offers an opportunity to appreciate the creative energy displayed by exhibitors, who take advantage of this international springboard to unveil innovative products and attractive collections. Another important component of the exhibition was health and training for opticians, delivered via the SILMO ACADEMY. Over the 2-days event, participants debated and exchanged views on the subject of eye strain. This has become an extremely well-coordinated 31
category
winner
VISION
BBGR • "Sirus Plus"
MATERIAL/ EQUIPMENT
INTERACTIF VISUEL SYSTEME • "Deep Lights by Activisu"
LOW VISION
TELORION • "Telorion Zoom"
CHILDREN
CAROLINE ABRAM • "5+5=10" de Tête à Lunettes
OPTIC FRAME
LUCAS DE STAËL • “Stratus”
SUNGLASS
MASUNAGA X KENZO TAKADA • “Campanule K18”
SPORT EQUIPMENT
BOLLÉ SPORT PROTECTIVE • “Coverage” collection Enfant
FRAME TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION
MORGENROT EYEWEAR • “Morgenrot SC3”
JURY'S SPECIAL AWARD
PIERO MASSARO • “PM415”
interview
Yohji Yamamoto
DRAMATIC, AVANT GARDE AND INTELLIGENT
by Carolina Saporiti
Since 1972, Yohji Yamamoto has been spreading his revolutionary, ever widening sphere of influence. This year he has launched his eyewear collection, which takes inspiration from the catwalk. The result is an intriguing collection of spectacles and sunglasses that are challenging and glamorous. Once again the Japanese designer explores shapes and materials with his famous rebellious spirit. We spoke with Sam Craig, Creative Director of Brando Eyewear to get the inside track
What are the common interests with the fashion collection? SC: “I want to achieve anti-fashion through fashion. That’s why I’m always heading in my own direction, in parallel to fashion” says Yohji Yamamoto. There is a playful androgyny. This is about the strong woman, her sexuality coming not through her adornments, but her abandonment of care. Her lack of interest in other’s perceptions of her. The more she hides her femininity, the more she is absorbed in her work, the more it emerges from the very heart of her existence. People’s tendencies consistently return to being conservative, or how would waves of newness emerge, what would they smash against? Although the term avant-garde has become somewhat overused and ostensibly cheap, Yohji still believes in its spirit; the voice of opposition to traditional values.
Sam Craig
Creative Director of Brando
What are the sources of inspiration for the Yohji Yamamoto collection? SC: When film director Wim Wenders bought his first piece of Yamamoto’s clothing, he was fascinated as it felt new and old at the same time, he felt protected by it. This quote has been a constant source of inspiration for the collection. Frames fit like they’re already yours, they look new, but feel anything but. They galvanize you, but don’t take you over. They are a statement without shouting. The frames live as part of you, inspired by Yamamoto’s desire to change raw materials from new, to something other worldly.
The new Yohji Yamamoto eyewear collection was born this year. Why and when did the designer decide to create it? Sam Craig: Born from a history of disruption, anti-fashion and renowned for running in parallel to faddish trends, Yohji Yamamoto turns his eternal gaze to eyewear. Rebellion pulses through the veins of his collection; this is a reaction to overdesigned, outwardly showy products. This is inner beauty expressed in both form and fit. I want to protect this collection from fashion, not to run against the grain, but to exist on a separate track. His eyewear collection is a continuation of this work with his mastery of design showcased here, in his latest exploration of the world bespectacled.
Can you describe how the collection is designed and where the frames are born? SC: The design process is a pure collaboration between 32
interview
the Brando and the Yamamoto design teams. The frame research, conception and design begins in Tokyo, drawing from the latest YY collections and the Brando design team complete the design process in London, where they are based in the heart of Old Street. I meet with the YY team all over the world. Happily our travels seems to unwittingly intertwine. One moment we’re meeting in Tokyo exploring the latest fabrics, the next in Paris watching them critiqued by the media eye. At these times we share our dreams. It is at moments like this that we talk about colour. It was one of these moments Yohji asked me, “What colour is this?” pointing to his dark trousers, “Black?” I asked, “No, this is green on green on green on green on green, which is deeper than black”. These are the snippets that inspire. A simple phrase or notion can set off an explosion of ideas.
All Yohji Yamamoto frames are meticulously hand-crafted with artisan producers in France. Who is your target? Is it the same as the core Yohji Yamamoto customer? SC: This collection is for those who appreciate timelessness, are dedicated to trying something new, to those who put design first and to the strong willed. This is luxury eyewear without showiness, this is anti-bling, there are no embellishments here as every detail has been designed to enhance style; not substance. Which are your distribution and sales channels? How do you choose opticians and partners? SC: We work with only the best of the best independent opticians, those who do not conform to the norm, those who have exceptional spaces in all the right places. The environment of the practice is all important, second to none is the service they offer and, of course, their passion for original eyewear is the very heartbeat of our industry.
THE FRAME CONCEPTION BEGINS IN TOKYO, DRAWING FROM THE LATEST YY COLLECTIONS AND THE BRANDO DESIGN TEAM COMPLETE THE DESIGN PROCESS IN LONDON
What can you tell 20/20’s readers about your next collection? SC: As Yohji Yamamoto says: “With my eyes turned to the past I walk backwards into the future”.
Your collection is predominantly made up of black/dark frames. Why? Is this a key theme or should we expect a change in the next collection? SC: The collection’s palette has been developed exclusively with Mazzucchelli and reflects Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing: dark, sombre shades that look black at first glance, but with further examination reveal multiple layers of dark colours that together create a richness in colour that black alone cannot supply. Future collections will further explore this ethos. Do you only use acetate? Why? Aren’t there other materials that attract you? SC: Acetate is the main material used in the collection, and is combined with intricate, delicate metal work. Deconstruction arises from cutting acetate front shapes in an unusual manner and reuniting them with interesting metal details. Acetate permits contoured shapes to be hand sculpted and refined and allows the collection to explore forms in every dimension and elevation. How many models are in the collection? What are the main features and properties? SC: 17 optical styles and 13 sunglasses make up the YY collection. All are available in 4 exclusive colours making up a collection of 120 pieces. Aside from using bespoke developed acetates, monochrome lenses have been developed with Christian Dalloz to perfectly match the bespoke acetates, creating a style that is as distinct as it is desirable. 33
So Quirkly Photography Chiara Romagnoli Style Micole Basile @ W-M management Hair and Make up Franco Chessa @ W-M management Model Luisa Engel @ Monster Management Production Luigi Bruzzone Thanks to Walter Mondavilli via Giovenale 7 - Milano www.ariaditalia.com
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Sunglasses Miu Miu Coat and top Longchamp Pants Byblos
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editorial
Spectacles Tom Ford Eyewear Sweatshirt Gentucca Bini exclusively for yoox.com Shirt I'M Isola Marras
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editorial
Sunglasses Lanvin Coat and skirt Asos Crew-neck Aimo Richly Hat Flapper
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editorial
Clip on Dsquared2 Eyewear Faux fur coat Annarita N T-shirt Gianluca Capannolo
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editorial
Spectacles Salvatore Ferragamo Sweater Jucca Dress Asos Hat Federica Moretti Pumps Longchamp
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editorial
Eyewear Christian Lacroix Sweatshirt I'M Isola Marras
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editorial
Shades Sonia Rykiel Coat and envelope clutch bag Drome Dress Gianluca Capannolo
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trends
by Alessandra Albarello
Prabal Gurung, S/S 2015 42
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E
In every season, in every fashion show, they are redrawn on the faces of the models, or else left in their natural form (more or less), free to express intelligence and a spirit of nonconformity. Consider the eyebrows of young model Cara Delevingne, for example, or those of Charlotte Casiraghi. When designing a pair of glasses, the brow is the area that best lends itself to decoration, to interpretation, the area on which the greatest creativity can be lavished, playing with form and asymmetry. And so it becomes a third eye, or a piece of studded Swarovski jewellery; it melts into baroque swirls, or is broken up by parallel lines. It even becomes the warp into which a strip of African fabric is woven.
ven if they don’t say so in public, designers of glasses c a n f requent ly become obsessed with the line of the eyebrows. For some consumers it marks the elusive border that a pair of glasses simply has to cross if it is to have any appeal and, therefore, be worth purchasing. On the other hand, the eyebrows are a “graphic mark” that is essential in giving definition to the eyes and lending intensity to a facial expression, but also in transmitting one’s personality. It is no coincidence that they became the iconic feature of the face of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, herself an icon and symbol of a unique and original style, a strong, combative spirit and, not least, an unconventional femininity.
Prabal Gurung, S/S 2015
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trends
NEW DIRECTIONS When designing a pair of glasses, the eyebrows is the area that best lends itself to decoration, to interpretation. The area on which the greatest creativity can be lavished, playing with form and asymmetry by Alessandra Albarello
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A-Morir The tortoiseshell version of Donita is being produced in a limited edition of only 20 pieces. The acetate frame is illuminated by a precious, hand-made, rose gold plated “eyebrow” hand set with topaz Swarovski crystals. An exclusive design by the legendary New York designer Kerin Rose Gold who, with the irony and originality of her styles, continues her conquest of the worlds of fashion and music.
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Lanvin To celebrate the label's 125th anniversary, Alber Elbaz, Creative Director of Lanvin, has dipped into the rich archive of Jeanne’s designs, to create a seductive, essential collection. This celebratory vision of the brand is completed by a range of accessories like the handbags with chains transferred into the design of glasses as a structural element.
trends
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Ralph Vaessen Craftmanship is elevated to the level of art and expressed in unique accessories, such as these glasses hand-made in Germany. Nothing is left to chance in the Tess frame, with a sophisticated combination of natural horn and coloured wood. Dutch designer Ralph Vaessen has always aimed at transforming glasses into luxury objects. With success.
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Imany by Alain Mikli Nostalgia for Mother Africa can manifest itself in many ways, even in a pair of sunglasses. French model and singer Imany (real name Nadia Mladjao) who is originally from the Comoros Islands, has lent her beautiful features and her name to a special collection designed by Alain Mikli. Africa becomes a symbol, a coloured strip of ethnic fabric “woven” into the metal and acetate frame.
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Anne & Valentin The Opla frame, inspired by Pop Art, plays with graphic motifs like stripes, colour combinations and important volumes, creating an interesting alternation of solids and voids. In particular, the shape of the temples is unique for its unexpected geometric effect. Once again this French label, born in the 80s, seduce and stupefy with its unusual designs.
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Ozona This design is called Omero (Homer), because of its “third eye” on the bridge. Sandro Gonnella has been designing his “sartorial” eyewear in Perugia, in Umbria, since 2006. His bespoke frames are governed by the principles of quality and attention to detail, as well as the exploration of rare materials such as bone and citrine quartz. His logo is a red coral sphere.
Luca Pagni Baroque swirls have been created by master artisans using laser cutting techniques to embellish the precious 24 carat gold-plated Profumo di Donna Karat Edition style. Luca Pagni’s collection is fascinated by the asymmetric beauty of nature, while the names of the styles are a homage to italian cinema. His glasses are designed in Milan and “made in Veneto”.
ill.i Optics This collection, launched on last September and distributed exclusively by Allison, was born in Los Angeles from the collaboration between visionary musician and businessman will.i.am and designer George Gorrow. The eclectic will.i.am turns his hand effortlessly from music to fashion and cinema. Vintage in inspiration, his eyewear collection has enough “hiphop” to feel contemporary.
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ADLENS Adlens InterfaceTM adjustable computer eyewear combats digital eye strain
OKO BY OKO PARIS OKO by OKO does the job with the BIZ! A casual elegance totally assumed
Due to the rise of digital technology, 81% of Americans now use a television, 61% a laptop and 62% a smartphone on a daily basis. Th is has led to an increase in what is known as ‘digital eye strain’, which nearly 70% of American adults report experiencing*. With new products hitting the shelves every day, the market for digital devices continues to grow – this inevitably means more time spent looking at screens and digital content. In fact, 28% of American adults are spending over ten hours in front of digital devices every day. It’s not surprising to hear that so many people now experience digital eye strain! So what can be done? Adlens®, which specializes in adjustable eyewear, has recently developed a new product which works to reduce digital eye strain, and also limits the eye fatigue people experience with near vision focus. Adlens Interface computer eyewear utilizes a tint which helps fi lter out harsh artificial light, and also features Alvarez Lens Technology – meaning they are instantly adjustable for 90% of people without astigmatism who require vision correction (from -6D to +3D), assisting with detail and clarity for near, intermediate and distance vision. Arriving online and in stores soon in classic black or modern crystal frames, Adlens Interface is an ideal way for users to protect their eyes from the increasing strain associated with digital devices. * The Vision Council reports on digital eye strain, 2012 & 2013
BIZ 7 for her… BIZ 8 for him… BIZ everywhere, BIZ for everyone, for all types of faces with these designer frames whose main key word is style! Businessmen and businesswomen fond of elegance and style, here are frames with character and affordable for all! The brand remains faithful to its values of quality, comfort and innovation in the choice of its materials using for this line, traditional acetate and also for some colors M49 Mazzucchelli Bio-Acetate. The control tracking of the product quality, material, color and manufacturing processes explain the choice of the “Made in France” associated with more Research & Development in the creation steps. These two new models convey values of elegance, refinement and f luidity in their lines and succeed in maintaining a light and thin balance in their shapes. For woman, the BIZ 7 offers a model based on a ‘butterf ly’ and glamor shape, when for man, with the BIZ 8, we’re more on a dynamic mood between casual and elegance. Satiny on one side, sanded on the other, the BIZ 8 has a massive and male aspect by staying in the refinement register with reworked side-pieces made thinner for better adjusting at optical mounting. On the logo side, only creation and no ostentation with a distinctive sign at bottom of ear stems (double square & rectangular piercing) recognizable and emblematic of the brand.
adlens.com
oko-eyewear.com
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L G R
L.G.R. New designs inspired by timeless aesthetics and sophisticated shapes
MARC STONE Marc Stone by Swiss Eyewear Group: Minimalistic designs handcrafted using state-of-the-art materials
L.G.R originates from a voyage made to Africa by the founder of the company, Luca Gnecchi Ruscone. On SPEKTRE a trip in 2005, Luca visited one of the Met-ro 2: a reinterpretation of optical one ofstores last in Asmara, Eritrea owned by hisiconic grandfather who once season's best sellers and frames lived in Africa from 1930 to 1970. There he discovered a box of Sunglasses, colonial period sunglasses, which had been Spektre Milan based, made in Italy and imported from Italy has 50 years earlier. by established in 2009, now set itselfFascinated as one of the the elegant design of the frames, Luca brought the most requested niche brands on the world market. remaining pieces back Italy.icons The such new of special Worn by celebrities andtostyle as his Selena discovery was spread, instantly requests poured in Gomez, Justin Bieber, and Izabel Goulart, Anna Dello for these Subsequently tracked Russo andunique Chiarasunglasses. Ferragni, and sold in thehe world most down the boutiques manufacturers and reopened same and exclusive like Colette, Harveythe Nichols laboratory,has which in 1968. Then he began a Intermix, nowclosed presented its new collection. small the authentic in respect to For theproduction upcomingof SpringSummerframes, 2015 collection, the traditional methods of their original make Spektre decidedartisan to include a reinterpretation of one of using only high hasthe worked last season's bestquality sellers materials. and iconicL.G.R frames, Met-ro. with top2 opticians worldwide, has remained Met-ro in fact, still stands forand its original meaning an exclusive well distributed brand. Afterfor these (METallo + ROtondo = Metro, standing Round significant L.G.R continues to work hard on Metal), but events, with a few, slight modifications: its shape improving every aspect the brand, anda as a result it evolved from round to aof drop-like, with first quality has become weItalian respected forMazzucchelli its quality, service, style, acetate rim by finest and frame andstainless elegance. in steel combined with silicone cushion nose For this season the new collection features 5 new(they pads and Divel lens. Their super light structure designsonly in optical and sun, are inspired by weigh 34 grams), theirwhich 74 phases of production timeless and sophisticated with the aesthetics finest materials and the madeshapes. in ItalyL.G.R quality, eyewear is entirely handmade in Italychic where each to make these sunglasses a guaranteed accessory frame is built from for start to finish using traditional complete any look, men and for women. methods of production order deliver a product Available from January in 2015, thetosunglasses will be that achieves with passion and authenticity. sold at a priceexcellence, of 179 euros.
The Marc Stone brand is a highly valued Swiss fashion label which has a presence in all the major fashion centres around the globe. Having the design team of Marc Stone join forces with the Swiss Eyewear design team the result is a stunning and revolutionary eyewear collection that remains true to the minimalist spirit of the Marc Stone label. Premiered in September at Silmo, the collection combines the classic aesthetics of high-fashion with the subtle street inf luence of the Marc Stone designer collections. Highlights include stunning wood finishes on acetate frames and highly wearable panto shaped frames with retro inspired clip-ons as well as contemporary stainless steel metal frames with discrete side shields and slightly heavier rims for an extra kick. The majority of the collection is crafted in acetate, featuring a high quality f lex hinge for extra comfort. The design team combined acetate with the high quality Swiss TR 90 material, as well as designed in stainless steel the metal part of the collection. The intriguing combination of materials and design elements sets the Marc Stone Eyewear Collection apart from others in the market. Last but not least the entire collection features the unique ultra polarized lens from the Swiss Eyewear Group. Launched through the global distribution network of the Swiss Eyewear Group, the collection will be promoted using an effective marketing and point of purchase concept for the optical retailers.
spektresunglasses.com lgrworld.com
swisseyeweargroup.com
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ADvertoriAL
MODO
SARTORIAL, INDEPENDENT AND GIVING desiGned in neW yorK, Milan and stocKholM, Modo coMBines a selection of Brands Beyond the oBVious and Products of uncoMProMisinG craftsManshiP, With an eleMent of surPrise in the details OUR PHILOSOPHY AND COLLECTIONS • Modo
M
odo’s brand essence is Sartorial, Independent and Giving. Modo is Sartorial by designing, engineering and handcrafting products with unique details under an artisanal approach. It is Independent by following its own spirit, without having to respond to the logics of large groups. And it is Giving because we donate one frame to people in need for every Modo frame purchased. Modo’s Paper-Thin Titanium collection is the innovative output of blending a beta titanium chassis with TR90 nylon eye-rims. The result is Light (at 6.8 grams), Flexible (the beta-titanium chassis is only 0.6mm thick, or thin, shall we say) and Colourful. Retroinspired shapes combine in a surprising spontaneity with the technologically advanced materials and construction. "Modo Paper-Thin Titanium combines the expression of an acetate with the functionality of beta-Titanium.
Paper-Thin Titanium
6.8 grams flexible colorful
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advertorial
As an influential buyer put it, this is the right product at the right time, fitting perfectly in the transition between plastic and metal, retro and modern” said Giovanni Lo Faro, Managing Director of Modo. Our Sculpted Titanium frames were inspired by the world of architecture, with a solid block titanium front carved by the bridge, and flexible beta-titanium temples which ensure fit and comfort. Minimalistic colours are broken off with complementary backing and temple tip colors. Modo’s Super-Thin Acetate collection is an example of applying our satorial approach to a plastic frame. The line’s signature metal on metal hinge is both a functional and design element, executed with the highest level of micro-engineering. The rounded metal hinges are replicated with precision in the plastic temples by hand polishing edges for a perfect connection. The final effect is one of lightness, precision temple movement and sophistication, apparent in the metal contrasted with deep and beautiful colors aligned with the brands rich history.
• Eco
E
co’s brand message is “Look Good, Feel Good, Do Good”. Look Good: being eco-friendly does not mean giving up style. Eco is created by Modo, a company driven by design since it was founded 24 years ago. Feel Good: by buying frames made of 95% recycled materials you are reducing your impact on the environment to only 5%. Do good: hrough the “One Frame One Tree” program, Eco plants a tree for each frame purchased by its customers. By partnering with NGO Trees for the Future, ECO has so far planted over 900,000 trees in Cameroon, Africa. The 1 million goal is getting closer each day! Eco Born Recycled is the first and only eyewear collection made of 95% high-quality recycled acetate and stainless steel. Eco’s recycled content is certified by UL Environment, a leading independent agency, after thorough periodic checks. Eco Born Biobased is an injected product made out of castor oil - a sustainable, renewable non-food oil.
BORN RECYCLED
LITORIA CAERULEA
GOTHENBURG
CREATED BY MODO · NEW YORK · MILAN · STOCKHOLM · MODO.COM
ABOUT MODO Modo was born in 1990 in Soho, New York under the entrepreneurial spirit of its founder, Alessandro Lanaro. Modo has evolved into a company that designs, manufactures and distributes a successful portfolio of house brands, designer brands and contemporary lifestyle brands – all under the common denominator of design and innovation. Our brands include Modo, Eco, Derek Lam, Jason Wu and 7 For All Mankind. Today, Modo is a global company with offices in New York, Milan, Stockholm and Hong Kong.
MODO WAS BORN IN 1990 IN SOHO, NEW YORK UNDER THE ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT OF ITS FOUNDER, ALESSANDRO LANARO 51
view from the us
Then… Now…
ANEW James J. Spina • VP Editor in Chief 20/20 USA
Dear 20/20 Europe, Just a gentle reminder that stateside 20/20 is celebrating its 40t h a nniversa r y a nd I’m hoping some of our 20/20 brand pride rubs off on you as we begin our march onward i n t h is opt i-quest of i n for mat ion a nd com mu n ic at ion leadership. I’m also thrilled to share an anniversary of sorts as I am now finishing up on my own personal anniversary of 40 years in publishing having started as a copy boy for Women’s Wea r Da i ly a nd W back i n 1974. As was t r ue then and equally so now, the trick to all of this magazine “stuff ” is enlightened publishing partnered with energized editorial and my hope is the intensity of such afinely conceived union brings you the creative spark needed to refresh YOUR quest... now... and... anew. And...here’s a flair of encouragement to keep you fueled. Our own 20/20 just got inducted into the prestigious Accessories Council Hall of Fame which we truly feel justifies our ongoing claim that eyewear (and sunwear!) is the Ultimate Accessory. It has always been a personal brand mandate here at 20/20 that eyewear is both a NEED and a WANT. Of course, any truly devoted optical professional must be committed to the premise of better vision for all of their patients but in that same drive to commitment it is hoped that the wants and desires of a consumer to look and feel good about themselves is an equalpart of the delivered opti-equation. And it is part of OUR vision and publishing concern to make that a sensible and understandable part of each and every Opti-pro’s plan as they strive to deliver bot h ser v ice a nd produc t s to t hei r pat ient /c ustomers. Ma ke sure THAT message is pa ra mount to our bra nd ’s
vision, our reader’s vision and the consummate commitment of all partnered here. And let’s see it stronger than ever as 20/20 gears up for a season of “seeing” anew.
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54 - CONTINUING EDUCATION One Size Can't Fit All But, How Personal Can/Should You Get? A course supported by an educational grant from SEIKO Optical Products of America
60 - ADVERTORIAL 100% Natural Vision with the Best Rodenstock Progressive Lens of All Times Rodenstock presents Impression Freesign 3
62 - ADVERTORIAL OPEN 30, The Future in Your Eyes From Safilens research, the new monthly contact lenses, in silicone hydrogel
64 - INNOVATIONS News & Products An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market: Carl Zeiss Vision Sunlens, OptoTech, Luneau Technology, Hoya
european lenses
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ONE SIZE
CAN'T
MARK MATTISONSHUPNICK, ABOM
FIT ALL
He is currently director of education for Jobson Medical Information LLC, has more than 40 years of experience as an optician, was senior staff member of SOLA International and is a frequent lecturer and trainer.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES Understand the most contemporary methods of personalizing progressive lenses since patients and their vision needs are as varied as fingerprints.
But, How Personal Can/Should You Get? by Mark Mattison-Shupnick, ABOM
This course is supported by an educational grant from SEIKO Optical Products of America.
T
hink of three different people that are presbyopic, in three different jobs in or outside the home, which you know well. Now, think of their favorite sports and pastimes, work environment, their size (PD, height, arm length),
posture and tell me about a single progressive that works perfectly for all. Tough to answer, I know, because you’re saying, “…to fit someone perfectly for their sport or work as well as their size, posture, requires different lenses and frames.” For example, she plays golf and that’s very different than when she’s in court or
Learn about the unique customizable features of SEIKO Superior and the benefits for the patient and ECP.
doing research for her next case in her law library office…”. The other two? He’s a detective, lots of driving and street work but also office and reports, would love to be fishing instead; she’s a freelance writer, works from home but needs those breaks and a walk for new inspiration. Each has very varied visual demands and
Learn the questions to ask patients and the observations that can be made in the office to determine how and when to effectively customize a patients eyewear.
while so many ECPs want a one lens solution, it no longer makes professional sense to give everyone the same exact lens. Moreover, it doesn’t work. The answer is to customize the eyewear for each patient, using a sensible balance of the methods of customization that you think would make a valued difference. Having a lens that provides all the forms of customization is the answer.
fitting height. Finally, reading distance can be specified so that the near inset is correct. Why would I want to specify these values and add more complications to the ordering process? This has happened to most of us. The patient moves to a larger “B” measurement frame with a higher fitting height. The lab returns a free-form lens with a longer corridor. Why? The corridor has been adjusted automatically to use the available “B” of the frame for the fitting height ordered. This delivers a certain minimum near size vertically. The patient then reports that the reading area is now “farther down in the glasses” and noticeably different; they’re not completely happy. If they don’t need the somewhat wider intermediate of a longer corridor, you end up trying to adjust the frame to get the reading area subjectively higher. SEIKO Superior allows you to produce a specific reading height separate from fitting height.
INTRODUCING NEW SEIKO SUPERIOR PROGRESSIVE LENSES In In this product spotlight, we’ll discuss how SEIKO combines some brand new customization options as well as the contemporary ones that you’ve begun to use, in a new progressive lens brand called SEIKO Superior. Choosing the final form of the SEIKO Superior lens is a simple process of identifying overall patient needs to determine one of the three designs weighted for Near-priority, Far-priority or Balanced vision. Then, new for this lens, choose the corridor length considering the patient’s previous lens and the new frame and fitting height. In this new lens, the actual reading height can be specified separately from the traditional frame 54
continuing education
Choosing the position of the reading position horizontally in the lens is actually complex. In most optimized lenses today, the inset varies by base curve (variable inset). For best results the way a patient normally holds reading material i.e., how long their arms are, their most comfortable arm position (perhaps it’s affected by desk and chair height, or whether they read on a tablet, smartphone or laptop) and the distance from their eyes to the reading material itself should be considered. However, it is not common practice for opticians to specify near PD for progressives. Ever wonder why we get patients who tell us that distance is great but reading requires a slight but different head turn to read clearly. The distance PD, near PD and the distance to the reading material affects the amount of convergence required. The prismatic effects of the distance prescription further affect the amount of convergence required as well as the dominant eye. Head position for the dominant eye will often position it to look directly at reading material while the other eye is required to turn more. If you’ve had these height and reading problems, SEIKO Superior offers you a solution because you are in control of corridor length and reading inset. Specify tilt, vertex and faceform and the rest of the lens will be customized from center to edge for the prescription required. And, if you don’t need to specify each parameter (the patient’s fit is equivalent to the averages) or want to use the SEIKO default averages, the lab will automatically do that instead. Ordering is seamless. Nice huh, let’s look at each of these new opportunities for precision fitting in more detail.
For example, today’s mobile lifestyle changes ‘normal’ reading position and posture. If one asks, “Tell me about your work, where do you do your most reading, show me how you hold the book (tablet and/or smartphone) and the first two reasons that you wear prescription glasses”, it’s easy to suggest a Near-priority (N), Far-priority (F) or Balanced (B) progressive lens platform.
Use Near for indoor/office environments where there’s a need for clear, stable, prolonged near vision. Presbyopes who use their eyewear mainly for distance/outdoor work where a clearer and wider periphery enhances the field of view (truck driver, myopes where reading is less in demand) would notice a difference with distance vision optimized. For new presbyopes and people whose demands vary widely, use a balanced design lens. Personalizing lenses can improve vision straight ahead but more importantly it improves vision over the entire lens. That’s important for astigmatic and high-powered prescriptions. I also find it successful for the patient that didn’t wear glasses until presbyopia and complains about the blur in their new lenses. It always gets a response from patients that they see ‘better’. In fact in the survey, of those that did dispense personalized progressives, 75% reported that they were extremely or very satisfied with the results both for the patient as well as the office. That means that with the right lens choice and the f lexibility to order lenses with patient differences, there are more opportunities to get it right.
Questions for patients and observations to identify No technical questions here since patients want your experienced and knowledgeable recommendation. Besides asking patients how they will use their glasses, ask them what they don’t like about their current eyewear. Probe their answers with more questions until you discover when they like their glasses the least. If a weighted design helps, that will be new information for patients and they’ll be more satisfied with their new eyewear. When moving amongst the frame displays, watch the patient’s posture as they look at frames from a distance and then close up. Now’s the time to ask about which kinds of vision they spend more time at or which they find more taxing. Your successes at choosing the basic design platform increases personalized lens use because success and patient satisfaction helps make the decision which lens becomes your first choice.
USE WEIGHTED DESIGNS In a recent Premium Lenses Jobson MarketPulse Survey (Feb 2014) only 36% of the respondents reported using personalized progressive lenses. That means that most progressives are still ‘general purpose’ progressives i.e., designed for zone size and fitting values for the average patient. More of a one kind fits all approach. That makes it easy for the office to order lenses but can’t really differentiate your office from others. It isn’t necessarily the best lens to suggest for the patient. Matching the patient to a weighted design lens provides a further tool to get the lenses right. 55
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EASY READING
Questions for patients and observations to identify
Reading satisfaction in progressives is the result of the right Add power as well as the correct positioning of the reading zone, vertically and horizontally. Vertically, the distance from the fitting cross to reading is called corridor length. Horizontally it’s called inset. How long a corridor and, what should the inset be? Depends…Two caveats first. The reading Add should be correct for the reading distance that the patient will most often use. The doctor and the patient determine the preferred reading distance during the refraction portion of the exam. The doctor positions the reading card on the near point rod at anywhere from usually 12 to 18 inches. Obviously, reading distance varies when sitting reading a book or magazine, shopping and when multitasking, like reading a tablet while watching TV. Younger presbyopes may read higher in the corridor using their reserve of accommodation while presbyopes with +2.25 or +2.50 adds use the full Add reading position. Why then is SEIKO Superior an opportunity? Both the corridor length and inset can be specified.
When observing the patient when reading with their habitual glasses, do they lift their chin excessively? Do they look comfortable? Has anyone ever asked them these questions? If the answer is yes, no and no, you’re doing things that no other optician has observed and it teaches whether to specify corridor length. Practice it – getting it wrong is the cost of education but patients are usually very resilient when you’re really trying to solve a problem. Ask, “If I could make reading better, what would it be…? Take control and meet the patient’s expectations for reading (vertically).
Horizontal Requirements
Vertical Requirements The reading zone is located using the frame’s “B” size and fitting height (pupil center). Considering minimum fitting height for lenses i.e., ensuring 3 or 4mm of vertical reading availability, we choose lenses that fit frames, often without thinking about changes to corridor length as we switch patients from one size to another. Most optimized digital lenses make a variety of corridor lengths available. However, if not specified and recorded, from eyeglass to eyeglass, the corridor length supplied can vary like our larger “B” size frame example at the beginning of this paper. SEIKO Superior provides 11 corridor lengths in increments of 1mm starting with a 8mm length and minimum fitting height of 12mm (8mm, 12mm) all the way to 18mm length and 22mm minimum fitting height. That teaches you that for reading there is a 4mm reading depth. Want more reading? Use a shorter corridor length. Want to mimic the habitual glasses (the patient’s current eyewear), consider that the reading is 4mm in depth and subtract that from the habitual glasses fitting height. The result is the targeted corridor length for the new glasses being ordered. The patient didn’t have enough corridor width, lengthen the corridor a 2-3mm’s and corridor’s widen.
Don't’ stop at corridor length. Horizontally, the most comfortable point to place the lens’ reading power is the result of a variety of factors. First, what is their distance PD and near PD, therefore the inset or convergence required? Next, what is the distance from the eye to the reading material (patient size, arm’s length, arm’s resting position, etc.) that would further modify convergence required? The closer, the more convergence or greater inset required. Also, the distance Rx modifies convergence because of its prismatic effect. As the wearer converges i.e., myopes converge less (induced BI prism) and hyperopes more (induced BO prism). Lastly, head posture and the dominant eye affect the patients posture reading. There is a head rotation for many patients that points the dominant eye at the object and requires the other eye to rotate more. Try it. It’s why some patients are happy with one lens fro reading and then describe a small amount of turn for the other that makes things clearer. Therefore, having the flexibility to adjust inset can help. The question is, “Should you specify the inset?” Yes, when you think it will make a difference or the patient complains that reading was never completely comfortable, they are very tall or short or they have to move their head slightly right or left to read clearly with one of their eyes. The SEIKO Superior variable inset calculation algorithm adjusts the location of the reading portion in the lens for specified reading distances of 14 to 99cm (6 to 39 inches). Otherwise, an average reading distance of 35cm is the default or about 14inches. That may be right for a variety of patients
Should you specify the corridor length? Yes, if it will make a defined difference based on the questions asked of the patient and your observations of them. 56
continuing education
Questions for patients and observations to identify
today since they are holding smartphones and tablets closer since the type font is newsprint size or smaller. SEIKO Superior optimizes the near zone inset in 0.1 mm steps within a range of 0.0 - 5.0 mm. In addition, the left and right inset of the near zone may be set individually.
Teaching patients about better vision with new lenses can be difficult since they have thought all along that you’ve delivered the best for the money spent. However, technology drives interest and helps to validate the expense of new products. Optimizing progressive lenses for lens tilt expands the clarity of the periphery and stabilizes the ability to deliver the best lens regardless of frame chosen. Giving priority to the size of the zones of progressives allows a direct solution to the way that your patient wants to wear their lenses. It removes a compromise and a learning to wear problem that one size fits all delivers. Ask, “If these lenses were clearer overall, especially for the kind of vision we identify as your priorities, wouldn’t that be better?” Or, “Tell me what areas of the lens could be clearer that would make you more comfortable?”
Questions for patients and observations to identify What was the habitual horizontal reading position and satisfaction? Ask, “If you could have made it better…”. Remember that the initial Add value is the result of the refraction and that needs to be for the correct reading distance i.e., where the patient will read for the majority of time. As a result, the doctor needs to actively participate in this decision. In instances where I have had to send the patient back to the doctor for an Add power change, the reason was that the reading rod was set at a nominal 16 inches or left the same from the previous patient.
OPTIMIZED OR CUSTOMIZED CORRECTED Optimizing (using the manufacturer’s average fitting values) or customizing (using your own tilt measurements) the lens’ power and peripheral design is the norm today however many are not using these tools to the best advantage. Therefore, an understanding of the benefits can make communicating them easier for the patient to understand and therefore buy. SEIKO calls its optimization process an advanced Multi-Polar Aspheric Compensation, to enhance the Superior lens from its other lenses. It considers a threedimensional map of the eye and the lens, calculates values of the orientation of the eye and its varied axes of rotation and provides proper eye to lens alignment in all directions. In this way, patients can expect the following vision benefits.
SAY
BENEFIT TOTALLY CLEAR ABOVE 180°
Widest Distance Field of Vision Expanded Peripheral Vision
"You'll notice that more of your right to left vision is clearer." (B) "Designed with a wider clear area for far vision, outdoors, for work or play." (F)
CONTROL OF CYLINDER IN ALL MERIDIANS
Reduced Oblique Astigmatism
"Older lenses had more side blur caused more head movement, clearer lenses overall provide more comfortable panoramic vision."
READING AND DISTANCE PRESCRIPTION IN THE AS-WORN POSITION
Eye Rotation, Vertex Distance & Tilt used Changes lens power to deliver the correct prescription over the majority of the lens Works for different ear/nose/frame tilts for improved performance For difficult Rx's
"For virtually all the ways that a frame fits, Superior lenses will provide your correct prescription." "A sophisticated lens for comfortable expanded peripheral vision, even in high cylinders and high-Add prescriptions."
TILT COMPENSATION
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euroPeAn Lenses
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teChnoLoGY
NO PROBLEM PLUS Almost all plus lenses are delivered with concave back surfaces. That was required for the more compromised designs of best form lenses. In addition, the lenses were pretty steep and thick. However, with advanced calculation software, high plus Superior lenses, especially with high. Adds can now be delivered up to 25% f latter in profile, even when compare to other SEIKO internal free-form designs. SEIKO produces Superior using f latter bases and when appropriate convex back curves. This is possible since the back lens designs are optimized to deliver thinner lenses and better peripheral optics.
Competitive Free-Form Lens
4 • First choose the basic design – Balance (B), Near (N) or Far (F) given your patient's priority based on observation and answers to your questions.
It looks like this, pretty straight forward.
SEIKO Superior
Default or Average Values?
SPH: +3.00 ADD: +3.00
Default means simplified. These are the average fitting values that lens designer’s use when calculating design surfaces of lenses. I never liked the word ‘default’ but it means to revert to a pre-selected number. Why should you let the lab use the average values? First, the patient is average in the way that they wear their lenses i.e., the patient’s measurements are equivalent to the manufacturers. Or, your office does not yet have the tools, training or practice to take personalized lens measurements for customized lenses. The default values for SEIKO Superior are: Design = Balanced (B), Corridor length - match fitting height to the longest corridor that will fit, Tilt, 10 degrees, Reading distance, 35cm (about 14 inches), Inset, 2.0mm (that’s the average difference of far and near corneal reflex PD’s). Obviously, your office can customize some and use the defaults for others, depends… Not every patient wants the best or can spend for it, regardless of the cost. However, getting good at personalized measurements is important for the future, yours and the office’s. More lens options for better vision rely on constructing the lens based on the actual way that patients wear their lenses. As a result, good measuring skills enhance your value, improves the office efficiency as well
ORDERING? THINK LIKE A LENS DESIGNER Like designing lenses, placing the order is simple if you create a process. 1 • First choose the basic design – Balance (B), Near (N) or Far (F) given your patient's priority based on observation and answers to your questions.
2 • Next, choose corridor length. What was the previous corridor length? Th ink fitting height minus a 4mm reading height = corridor length. What is the new fitting height less 4mm? Are they the same, longer or shorter and what will be the patient experience? Will you be able to say that the mid-range in this new lens will be more helpful since the reading is a little further down or I know that you've loved how easy it was to access the reading, "I'll make sure that it is the same place again…" Are there any other corridor length considerations?
as helps differentiate the office from others.
CONCLUSION To fit patients perfectly for their sport or work as well as their size, posture, requires different lenses and frames. SEIKO Superior is an “ultra-personalized lens” that features 3 options for the basic design (Balanced, Near-priority and Far-priority), 11 options for the corridor length, 51 options for the near zone inset and 21 options for the frame pantoscopic tilt. It is available in a wide variety of materials and coatings with add powers from +0.50 to +4.00 (8 & 9mm corridors to +3.00). With that in mind, it’s easy to understand how one size can’t fit all.
3 • Then, measure lens/frame tilt. Be sure to practice measuring tilt on colleagues fi rst. If you have a digital measuring device, use that. If not… Ask the patient to stand and turn to look at something more than 20 feet away, say out a window or across the office. Stand next to them and place your hand on their arm or shoulder, as you talk to them. Th is most often gets them comfortable and distracts them from trying to hold the posture they think you want. Ask them to hold that head position while you place the fl at of the SEIKO tilt-measuring device against the front of the right or left top and bottom eyewire. Read and record the tilt value.
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advertorial
RODENSTOCK
100% NATURAL VISION WITH THE BEST RODENSTOCK PROGRESSIVE LENS OF ALL TIMES
RODENSTOCK PRESENTS IMPRESSION FREESIGN® 3
D
ue to its patented f lexible design technology, the revolutionary Impression FreeSign® 3 progressive lens provides unrestricted vision and can be perfectly matched to the personal lifestyle of the wearer. Impression FreeSign® 3 has benefits to offer that take progressive spectacles wearers into a new dimension: maximum vision zone, high image stability and the highest spontaneous compatibility. Aberrations are pushed into irrelevant areas for the wearer so that they do not adversely affect natural perception. Impression FreeSign® 3 is unique because of the great design f lexibility with which the individual habits of the wearer are accommodated. Thanks to Rodenstock's patented Eye Lens Technology, Impression FreeSign® 3 progressive lenses are calculated on the basis of the latest physiological findings. The optician has the possibility to offer a demanding customer an individual solution or the choice of one of three prefabricated design types: Allround, Active or Expert. With Impression FreeSign® 3 the spectacles wearers feel more relaxed, energized and efficient – completely new freedom for natural vision!
CONSULTING EXPERIENCE FROM EXPERTS With Impression FreeSign® 3, Rodenstock is making more than just an outstanding quality product available to the optician. With it, the company also supports the expertise of the retail channel and directs attention to the consulting service. Rodenstock provides two consulting tools specifically for the new product to support
sales conversations. By using the Windows-based FreeSign® 3 Consulting Module in Rodenstock Consulting, the expert can analyse his customer's lifestyle together with him based on imagery on the screen and determine the perfect progressive lens design for that customer from the results. The new Virtual Consulting app
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for the iPad can be also used for this purpose. With this app, the optician finds out quickly and easily which of the three predefined designs best meet the visual requirements of his customer. The consulting becomes a visual experience, because Virtual Consulting simulates the view through an Impression FreeSign® 3 progressive lens in a way that is as true to nature as possible. The customer can then make a direct comparison to a conventional progressive lens. The second generation of the Rodenstock EyeConsulting+ 2.0 app provides optimum support for the refraction of the customer with special attention being paid to far and near refraction.
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Find out more by visiting www.opti.de
Save the dates for opti 2015 now!
The future never waits! So be sure to keep up with it. Get in on the trends and topics that the entire optical industry will be focussed on in 2015. Save the dates now and maximeyes your preparation!
9. – 11.1. 2015
Contact: MONACOFIERE P (+39) 02 36537854 visitatori@monacofiere.com www.monacofiere.com
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SAFILENS
OPEN 30
the future in your eyes OUTLINE OF THE TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS ADOPTED FOR THE SIDE EFFECTS CAUSED BY CONTACT LENSES
FROM SAFILENS RESEARCH, THE NEW MONTHLY CONTACT LENSES, IN SILICONE HYDROGEL. THE COMBINED EFFECT OF HYALURONIC ACID AND THE POLYSACCHARIDE TSP®, FOR LONG-LASTING, COMPLETELY NATURAL WELLBEING
side effects
technical solutions MATERIAL: FILCON V BIO-SILICONE HYDROGEL (PATENTED)
01 High oxygen permeability, Dk/t 65. 02 Low modulus of elasticity, 0.40. 03 Top quality surface morphology (Ultra smooth). 04 Non-ionic - UV filter.
I
n the last decade, thanks to the application of new Biomaterials, contact lenses have made great progress in terms of the quality of their use. However, such phenomena as dry eyes, dehydration, increased tear-film osmolarity and the presence of deposits, have extremely important clinical implications. The number of these side effects is disturbing: each year, 10-15% of wearers stop using contact lenses as a result of complications, and this percentage increases to over 40% for those who have difficulty while using lenses. Thus, over 50% of wearers need t he “Physiologica l Comfort”, that is, a state of complete visual-ocular wellbeing, to be improved. The goal of OPEN, a Safilens research project which has lasted 3 years, was to produce a new contact lens with minimal side effects. This system is not limited simply to developing material; every aspect of the CL – Anterior Segment interaction is ta ken into consideration to find an innovative solution to the most common causes of “rejection”. All of this, with absolute respect for the physiology of the eye.
STRUCTURE: LOW THICKNESS, ASPHERIC DESIGN, NEW EDGE PROFILE
05 Peripheral, tangential Pumping Effect, with direct tear oxygenation. 06 Smart Bevel Edge profile, anti-conjunctival indentation, and maximum comfort. ACTIVE INGREDIENT: PATENTED FUSION TECHNOLOGY
07 Release of HA + TSP tear substitute (hydrating, lubricating, mucomimetic, protective and cell regeneration effect). 08 Stability of the tear film. CARE SYSTEM: RELOAD SINGLE SOLUTION
09 The highest concentration of FUSION copolymer active ingredient. 10 Use of pharmaceutical grade Hyaluronic Acid which comes from the fermentation of Bacillus Subtilis, and which does not use any raw materials of animal origin, or any organic solvents. The patented, water-based production process guarantees safety, stability and results, and has an extremely low risk of unwanted effects as a result of the very low endo- and exotoxin content. 11 New disinfection and biocompatibility tests. Bacteriostatic effect of TSP. SONICATION: SONIC WAVE GENERATOR
12 Daily removal of deposits. 13 Recovery of the FUSION saturation … like a new lens for 30 days.
62
advertorial
OFFICIAL UK PARTNERS
SAT - MON 9 2015 FEBRUARY 2015 7, 8, 7 9 February EXCEL LONDON Excel London
REGISTER NOW AT:
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EUROPE’S HOT NEW OPTICAL SHOW 63
Event Partners
european lenses
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technology
Carl Zeiss Vision Sunlens The Spring/Summer 2016 Trends Collection
Behind every sun lens manufactured by Carl Zeiss Vision Sunlens, there is technology but also research in fashion, design and social trends, to offer to the market a creative and high performance product. That is why Carl Zeiss Vision Sunlens presents every year the Spring Summer Trends, a dedicated service for designers and spectacle frame manufacturers. The 2016 collection presents a combination of colorful selection of CR-39 solid gradient and double gradient lenses combined with elegant and delicate mirrors. The new trends of “You are here” are revealed through a map in a space where we can fantasize and discover 3 realities. We can get lost in the “Soft Science Fiction” world with silvery mirrors and pastels lenses that recalls hi-tech organic future, the plastic rubberized materials and mutating shapes of our futuristic imaginary. Then, we jump into the “Industrial Modernism” space where materiality and functionality are the protagonists. The effect of steel, wood, stone is represented with metallic mirrors, monochromatic lenses and mineral tints. In the end, we escape to the magic island of “Tropicalia” where we dream about the exotic images of the ‘50s Tiki pop culture. This playful environment with juicy colored cocktails and Hollywood jungle fantasies is interpreted with vibrant mirrors and iridescent orange, yellow and green lenses.
OptoTech The new OAC-25 coating system
Also in the wintertime eyes need to be protected from harmful UV-rays. This rule not only aims at people wearing sunglasses without correction, but also at spectacle wearers who want fashionable sunglasses with prescription lenses. To take account of this rapidly growing trend, OptoTech developed, with the OAC-25 coating system, a compact and attractively priced coating machine, whose coating processes and design are tailored to the needs of this product segment. The machine is capable of not only producing AR coatings in premium quality, but is also able to additionally refine the lenses with super-hydrophobic coatings (DURACOTE plus) or flash mirror color coatings (DURAFLEX). For the first time ever, this machine allows for the application of highly individualized color coatings matching to the respective spectacle frame (Digital Coating). Even a single pair of sunglasses can be coated at a competitive price by using this machine. This development allows maximum individuality in the design variety of products providing an advantage in this fast growing market segment.
64
innovations
An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market
HOYA Three new V+ designs to target different lifestyles
Following the introductions of Hoyalux iD LifeStyle V+ and Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+, HOYA expands this advanced freeform lens series with Hoyalux iD WorkStyle V+ (indoor), Nulux iDentity V+ (single vision) and Hoyalux iD LifeStyle V+ X-Act (progressive). What all HOYA V+ designs have in common is that they are characterized by great attention to binocular vision. As part of its InnoVision platform HOYA has developed a patented binocular performance measurement program. This so-called Binocular Eye Model considers all elements that are important for a perfect binocular performance and verifies each V+ design under real life circumstances before going into production. On top of that, Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ and Hoyalux iD WorkStyle V+ feature HOYA’s patented Binocular Harmonization Technology. This technology considers the prescription for the left and right eye as individual components to calculate the optimal binocular lens design, ensuring that the power distribution and progressive corridor of each lens meet the needs of each eye. Additionally, all HOYA V+ designs are optimised with personal wearing conditions and come in different ‘easy to select’ design variations targeting different lifestyles and needs. And thanks to the new HOYA iDentifier, Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ even goes a step further with virtually unlimited design variations.
Luneau Technology Visionix launches VX 120 for screening and diagnosis
Visionix, a company of Luneau Technology, has launched its newest technology, the VX 120, designed as a complete screening and diagnostic tool for eye care professionals. The device is a modern tool to screen for glaucoma, cataract, visual defects and corneal diseases thanks to a unique combination of functions including Refraction, Keratometry, Aberrometry, Topography, Pupillometry, Tonometry, and Anterior Chamber Analysis using Scheimpflug imaging. The VX 120 also offers fully automated measurement at the touch of one button and allows the delegation of tasks, reducing the waiting time and optimizing practice efficiency. Its automatic 3-D ALIGNMENT allows higher reliability of measurements, significant time savings and increased efficiency, ergonomic design for optimum comfort. Luneau Technology Group, that holds a portfolio of brands in a niche market, is known for its’ strong brands, Briot, Weco, and Visionix which offer a complementary mix of products and innovative capacity specifically geared for the ophthalmic industry.
65
DIRECTORY LISTING directory
Acespex Global Pte Ltd
FACE A FACE
KENMARK
france
usa
SINGAPORE Ph +65 85889988
Ph +33 1 56 33 34 31
Ph +1 (502) 267 4486
info@faceaface-paris.com
druiz@kenmarkoptical.com
enquiries@acespex.com.sg
faceaface-paris.com
kenmarkoptical.com
Modo eyewear italy
Ph +39 02 4399 8986 Europe@modo.com
Adlens Ltd united kingdom
Ph +44 1865 980 400 contact@adlens.com
Pramaor Srl italy
Ph +39 0437 660 523 commerciale@pramaor.com blackfin.eu
modo.com
Hong Kong optical fair
Lookvision
china
Ph +33 1 39 35 97 14
exhibitions@hktdc.org
yanna.look.vision@wanadoo.fr
hktdc.com/ex/hkopticalfair/17
look-vision.fr
france
Mondottica Limited uk
Ph +44 1159 677 912 sales@mondottica.com
thinkasiathinkhk.com/eu
mondottica.com
Pregiata Eyewear Srl
Ph +39 0432 646 411 area98@area98.it area98.it
hd@okia.com
Hoya Vision Care Europe the netherlands
Bushnell Outdoor Products
Ph +31 (0)297-514350 hoya.eu
Look Occhiali Srl
okia.com
italy
Ph +39 0437 573060
Oko eyewear group
info@lookocchiali.it
france
lookocchiali.it
Ph +33 1 45 15 27 27 info@oko-eyewear.com
france
oko-eyewear.com
Ph +33 (0) 1 41 44 94 80
lescreateursdelunettes.fr
accueil@bushnell-europe.com
Mazzucchelli 1849 Spa
bollesportprotective.com bolle.com
italy
cebe.com serengeti-europe.com
Intercast Europe S.p.A. italy
Diops republic of korea
Ph +82 53 350 7832
Ph +39 0521 607 555
Ph +39 0331 826111 info@mazzuicchelli1849.it mazzucchelli1849.it
info@nxt-vision.com nxt-vision.com
diops@koisc.org diops.co.kr
pregiata@pregiata.com pregiata.com
italy
Ph +39 0435.501137 info@immagine98.it
Instruments Department
immagine98.it
urband-eyewear.com
REM Eyewear Ph 800 423 3023 customerservice@remeyewear.com
VARIATION DESIGN
remeyewear.com
france
Ph + 33 (0)3 21 22 21 22 contact@variation-design.fr
Rodenstock GmbH Ph +49 89 7202 0 info@rodenstock.com
VISION X
rodenstock.com
DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Ph + 971 4 308 6230
Ph. +33 9 54 18 50 65
visionx@dwtc.com
info@carolineabram.com
vision-x.ae
carolineabram.com
Opti
Safilens Srl
germany
italy
opti-munich.com
Ph +39 0421 272616
Mei Srl
info@meisystem.com meisystem.com
variation-design.fr
germany
WooDone Snc italy
Ph +39 0472 613 612 info@woodone.it woodone.it
Silmo Paris
Xiamen Hong Tai Optical Co. Ltd
0000008406
Ph +39 03 5339 112
glossi-eyewear.com
sun valley, ca
safilens.com
italy
france
contact@urband.com
france
International Vision Expo West
Immagine 98 Srl
URBAND Ph + 33 (0)1 42 87 3027
safilens@safilens.com
visionexpowest.com
Essilor international
Opta Filao
swisseyeweargroup.com
Ph +39 049 20 21 690
hong kong
italy
info@swisseg.com
italy
Okia Optical Co. Ltd. Ph +852 2371 3889
switzerland
Ph +41 44 533 58 70
adlens.com
Area98 Srl
Swiss Eyewear Group (International) Ag
france
china
PPG optical materials
Ph +33 1 43 46 27 60
Ph +86 0592-5783191
silmo@silmo.fr
susan@hongtaig.com
usa
silmoparis.com
hongtaig.com
ppgtrivex.com
SPEKTRE
Zilli Eyewear
european office contact
italy
france
FrĂŠderic LeFranc
Ph +39 0266713292
Ph +33 4 72 19 21 04
Ph +1 724 325 5915 cr39casters.com
france
IOFT
instruments-communication
japan
Mido Srl Unipersonale
@essilor.com
ioft-eng@reedexpo.co.jp
italy
Ph +33 1 4698 8138
infospektre@gmail.com
eyewear@zilli.fr
essilor-instruments.com
ioft.jp
mido.it
flefranc@ppg.com
spektresunglasses.com
zilli.fr
DOW
NLO
AD
THE
EUR FRE OPE E APP
2 0/20 europe - November 2014
Tailored vision. Available to everyone. Discover the secret behind Hoya’s V+ advanced freeform lens series. With the introduction of an indoor, single vision and additional progressive lens design, Hoya’s V+ range of lenses is now complete, making perfect vision available to everyone. Hoya V+ lenses stand for: • Unsurpassed binocular performance • Tailored to personal wearing conditions • Tailored solutions for every individual Discover more about Hoya’s V+ range on www.hoyaluxid.com
Brand profile Blackfin In detail Invu Interview Yohji Yamamoto Trends Eyebrows
URBAN SPORT 20/20 europe a Jobson publication nr. 05/2014 - Novembre - Anno XXV FGE Srl - Regione San Giovanni, 40 14053 Canelli (AT)