this is rio by Marcella Saads

I will tell you a little bit about how this magazine came along... I happen to be a born and raised carioca who left Rio about 5 years ago. When I came back to my city for 3 months last year, I had no idea what to do over there. I mean, where can I go for a beer? Or where can I find good vintage shops in Rio? Or who are the people that are relevant for the city now a day? With all these questions in my head I simply decided to meet up with the people I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know, but admire profoundly in order to ask them what do they like to do in Rio. As a result of 80 interviews and about a year of lounging around in the city, THIS IS RIO DE JANEIRO became a dream come true. Good news is that this is just the first issue of a biannual magazine that will aim to constantly infiltrate itself in different cities to bring

you, reader, the most contemporary news and insider tips of what I hope to be your next travel destination. Along with the magazine, you will have access to more content and relevant tips on www.thisismagazine.co.uk. For this issue, your reader password is RIORIO, so feel free to access the website anytime you feel like immersing yourself in sun, sand and salty water. Enjoy your time at Rio. Beijo beijo,

Marcella Saads Editor in Chief

contents PLACES Sala de Estar comuna SANTA TERESA Jardim Botanico parque laje instituto moreira salles bg

16 18 19 22 34 35 40 41

fashioN ELA É CARIOCA TWO BROTHERS BARS Allure

42 44 58 66 78

BRAZILIAN BEACHWEAR BLUE MAN BUMBUM IPANEMA FERNANDO COZENDEY

90 96 100 102

CARIOCAS PERDIGÃO GRANADO MELISSA ANDRÉ carvalhal fernanda rebello acervo marcella franklin caio braz dona coisa rique inglez peu mello a rainy rio

104 106 110 112 114 116 120 124 126 128 130 132 133

guide to places rio de janeiro (River of january)

city Discovered on january 1st 1502, which explains the presence of a month on its name. The river was added because the portugueses arrived in the city by the guanabara bay AND thought it was a river.

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas 17

Sala de Estar Aka â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Living Roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; This is a lovely store created by a 24 years old girl who noticed that many of her friends were talented, but none of them had a space to sell their creations. As a result she developed a business concept that allows her friends to design unique pieces and sell them for a reasonable price. www.nasaladeestar.com.br

Comuna Bar, store, art gallery and design studio. A few friends were sick and tired of that same old night scene in Rio â&#x20AC;&#x201C; well, they were broke too and some parties can get expensive over here. So because of that one day they had the genius idea to throw a post-beach party at this place called Palafita Kitch, at Lagoa. Well, the event got bigger and bigger, to the point they got their own venue in the up incoming Botafogo neighbourhood. The place is now called Comuna, and there you will find cheap boose, cool and interesting people, an art gallery and an amazing clothing store that hand picks the items from the best new designers of Rio. Make yourself at home over here â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they came to stay, and so should you.

Rua Sorocaba, 585 - Botafogo

Corcovado as seen from Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa This is the coziest area of Rio. This part of the city is located in a tropical forest, and is known for being home of some incredibly creative people. You will go to Santa Teresa if you want to visit the Christ, if you are looking for incredible bars and restaurants and if you are looking for an amazing and creative vibe.

MORRO DOIS IRMﾃグS AS SEEN FROM LEBLON, POSTO 11

Mais Paz at Arpoador

View from Arpoador

Fashion Rio at Jockey Club

Any Given Boteco at Leblon

Copacabana

Jardim BotĂ˘nico Despite its name, the Botanic Garden is actually a neighborhood of Rio. Yeah, ok, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a botanic garden over there as well. in fact, one of the best brunches in town is located in the centre of the park. The place is called Parque Laje, and it not only has a delicious restaurant, a gorgeous view, but it also hosts art classes! You can check the work produced there at any time, as the pieces are always on display around the corridors of the Colonial house.

Parque Laje This place has been voted the best brunch in town. It also hosted a video clip for the Black Eyed Peas in 2005. Well, it also works as an art gallery, art school, swimming pool and picnic arena. How could one miss the chance to go there?

www.eavparquelage.rj.gov.br R. Jardim Bot창nico, 414 - Jardim Bot창nico

Jardim Botanico 37

Instituto Moreira Salles Is the place one goes to see contemporary Brazilian art at its best. They also have a delicious cafe and a brilliant book store waiting for your visit. It has been said to be the perfect shelter during rainy days.

Rua Marquês de São 40 Vicente, 476, Gávea

Beach at Farme de Amoedo Street, Ipanema. The gay area of the beach that is always packed with people.

Baixo Gávea - Gávea So this is where Cariocas go for a chopp - draft beer -, some sushi, some classic Brazilian food and for socialising on the streets. Lots of restaurants are spread around this sort of village, so options won’t be lacking for your day-drinking. If you rather savour a beer at night, bear in mind that Sunday and Friday are the best nights, as everyone from Rio will be over there chilling out for an hour or five.

Praca santos dummond, gavea 41

which means

lyrics of Valsa De uma Cidade - Caetano Veloso

Bikini Top, Vintage Pants, Dona Coisa Sunglasses, Jil Sander Photography, Styling and Production: Marcella saads/ Model: Luana Pinheiro

ela é CARIOCA Ela é carioca She’s a carioca Just see the way she walks Nobody else can be What she is to me I look and what do I see When I look deep in her eyes I can see the sea A forgotten road The caressing skies And not only that I’m in love With her The most exciting way It’s written on my lips Where her kisses stay She smiles and all of a sudden The world is smiling for me, And you know what else she’s a carioca Lyrics by João Gilberto - Ela é Carioca

Ipanema, 8PM I can smell the post-beach feeling in Rio from here. Popcorn, boiled corn, hot dogs... Help youself. to this delicious mess. Bikini, Saara Top, Osklen Sunglasses, Mont Blanc Skirt, New Order Cigarettes, Black

Bikini, Saara Top, Osklen Sunglasses, Mont Blanc

Bikini, Osklen Skirt, Dona Coisa Sunglasses, Louis Vuitton Shoes, Diane Von Furstenberg

Sunglasses, ASOS Shorts, New Order iPhone Cover, Saara Silver Ring, Antonio Bernardo Velvet Lepard Print Swimsuit, Vintage

Bikini, Osklen Top, New Order Hot Pants, Osklen

Bikini, Vintage Pants, Dona Coisa Sunglasses, Jil Sander

two brothers by damian jacob

Top: Fernando Cozendey / Rain Coat: Vintage Special Thanks to Sergio Mattos at 40o Models and Fernanda Rebello for lending her beautifully rich wardrobe. Model: Larissa Duarte at 40o Models / Photography, Styling and Production: Marcella Saads

BARS where to go, what to have

SOME GREAT LIQUOR CAN BE FOUND AT THE CLASSIC LIDADOR STORES SPREAD AROUND THE CITY OF RIO. SHOES: MIUMIU / JUMPSUIT: MARIA BONITA BAG: LIDADOR

Any given Quiosque on the beach can be the perfect drinking spot. with a Great view, great people and great waiters, the calcadao is always an option. Dress: New Order / Bag: Vintage Shoes: Melissa

This place is Amazing for a post-night pizza. Trust me, everyone will be there at 5AM flavouring their greasy pizza along with their closing glass of icecold chopp. Av. Ataulfo de Paiva, 1228 - Leblon

So in case you want a detox from all that beer youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been having, maybe you should try the fresh juices available here, at the Big Polis, in Leblon. Some other similar options are the Bibi Sucos, Poli Sucos and Balada Mix. Av Ataulfo de Paiva, 505 - Leblon Dress: Stella McCartney / Yellow Ball-shaped Bag: New Order

If you feel like having a beer right after the beach, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry - no one will judge you. Just pack your stuff from the beach and come straight to Jobi. People wilL be wearing their swimwear until late at night, because just like you,they simply want to have a good time. Av Ataulfo de Paiva, 1166 - Leblon

Denim Top: American Apparel Skirt: Stella McCartney Model: Mariana Goldfarb Photography, styling and production: Marcella Saads style assistant: Flavia Lanat Special Thanks to Ana Paiva at Ford Models Rio and Antie Martha for lending us her house for this editorial.

Dress: Stella McCartney / Shoes: Diane Von Furstenberg

Dress: Stella McCartney / Shoes: Diane Von Furstenberg / Sunglasses: Louis Vuitton / Jewellery: Vintage / shoes: christian louboutin

Dress: American Apparel jewellery bought at Ipanemaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beach

On the previous page: Crochet Top: Nica Kessler Skirt: American Apparel Sunglasses: ASOS Handbag: Nica Kessler Jewellery: Vintage. On this page: dress: American Apparel Jewellery bought at Ipanemaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beach scaef worn as a belt: carolina herrera clutch: american apparel shoes: bought at feira vintage de copacabana

Skirt: Stella McCartney

Romper: American Apparel Jewellery: Vintage

Bikini Bottom, blue man

there is something about brazilian swimwear

Bikini Bottom, Bum Bum Ipanema

Bikini Bottom, Blue man

Thomaz Azulay Heir to one of the most important families of Brazilian fashion, 24 year old Thomaz directs artistically the pioneer bikini brand of Brazil. Written By Marcella Saads

Circa 2004 I had a neighbor in the apartment right below mine who wouldn’t stop sewing. I would often sneak a peek through the window and watch him sew the most glamorous and shiny pieces of fabric. He was about 16 at that time. It was so curious to see such a young boy sewing with such passion. My mom always said ‘he is fab and I am sure he will work with fashion someday’. Little did she know that in that very apartment right below us lived a family that represented so much for the Brazilian fashion. They were the Azulay family, and the guy sewing downstairs was Thomaz Azulay, heir to one of the most important families of Brazilian fashion and the current creative director of the first swimwear brand in Brazil, Blue Man. You see, the story of this brand began with two brothers that moved from a pacific Northern Brazil into an exciting Rio de Janeiro in 1967. Despite their religious names, Simão and David - Simon and David -, these two formed together a rather unorthodox duo. Simão, the oldest brother and Thomaz’s dad, have arrived in Rio with a hunger for creation, while a 12 year old David would carefully observe every step his brother would take. One day David found a parcel addressed to his brother. In the box he found 2 bikini bottoms made of jeans. He sneaked the samples and went around Ipanema with the hope to sell them to the stores. That day he sold nothing less than 1800 pieces. Naturally the design of the bikinis had to be developed because they were made of thick jeans. Although the initial samples wouldn’t pass through the knees of the customers, David was focused on

& BLUE M AN making that idea of a jeans bikini work. In fact one day a friend told him to cut the sides of the bikinis, so it could be adjustable to the person wearing it: There, my friend, was created the sidetie bikini bottom. Undoubtedly those bikinis brought a breeze of fresh air to the warm beaches in Rio. Models, actors and youngsters were seen all over the city wearing Blue Man’s jeans bikinis. By the way, the name of the brand itself came from the fabric used. Well, sort of. You see, Azul in Portuguese means blue. The color of jeans is Blue - and according to the late creator of the brand, David Azulay, ‘at that time people were taking this high-quality LSD called Blue something, and I was obsessed about a brand in Sao Paulo called New Man. So I mixed the whole thing together: The brand that finished with ‘Man’, the jeans that were blue, the blue LSD, and my name Azulay. I created the brand Blue Man, thinking that I would make jeans bikinis for the rest of my life’. Well, Lycra soon replaced the jeans, but the innovative breed of the Azulay’s kept on going fiercely to this date. So strong that in 2011 David Azulay’s nephew, Thomaz - aka my flamboyant neighbor mentioned previously - took over the creative direction of Blue Man and is doing an amazing job with it. That is why he is here to talk about bikinis, beach democracy and art. As I come into his new apartment – you see, we haven’t been neighbors for over four years now – I see a mix of antiques and glitter all around. ‘Oh that?’ He points

to three words covered in glitter hanging on his wall. ‘I love the work of Wilson Piran. He still produces to this date. His work is very 70s, 80s, and his screens are very glittery. He made some very popular pieces during the 80s, and throughout the years I managed to collect these three words that I framed together: pleasure, love and lust - in that order’. Yes, he is still into glitter - which is a good thing, because his walls look absolutely beautiful. Around the shiny piece, he hanged covers of vintage magazines, imperial illustrations, a recent ad from Blue Man, and a beautiful bronze chandelier. ‘I have always been kind of addicted to antiques. I didn’t only heir the pieces from my family, but I have also inherited the addiction’ and the good taste, one might add. Not all of his pieces were inherited, though. There is a curious bear-coffee table in the middle of his living room. ‘I got it for something like £50, and instagrammed it straight away: ‘we never forget our first Jeff Koons’. He found such preciosity in a weekly flea market that takes place in the centre of Rio, at Praça XV. But does he uses these historical references when designing for Blue Man? ‘Everything I create kind of develops in a blender-system. The mix of tropical and Rococo really is my soft spot. Truth be told, when it comes to references, I kind of use my particular qualities and weave them into what Blue Man has done before: the brand has a DNA that is extremely Brazilian and carioca’.

Thomaz At Home

Speaking of carioca, what do you think the buzz around Rio is all about? Everywhere in Brazil, and now the whole world as well, everybody wants to be carioca and have a little of this joie de vivre carioca. We transmit this positive image of happiness and health, because here you breathe culture, sports, and the beach. Rio has this uplifting vibe, you know? I think that’s what generates this common desire.

What’s your favourite spot on the beach? I like going to Ipanema, on Posto 9 or 10, because I think it’s a little summary of Rio’s beach behaviour. Obviously that you have the Pêpê, at Barra, or Copacabana, or Leblon, but in those spots at Ipanema you will see the chic girl, you will see the sassy girl, the guy wearing a sunga, the gay guy and the older gentleman. Right there you can understand well our beach democracy. What would you give as a souvenir from Rio?

Is there an image, song or smell that reminds you of Rio? The horizon. When you go to a space so free such as the beach, where you have nothing else in front of you: that’s what makes me feel home. In São Paulo I feel anxious because, as Vinicius de Moraes used to say, “you walk and walk and never get to Ipanema”. So I think this freedom and this physical breath that reminds me of Rio.

A bikini from Blue Man! I have always given it, even before working there. I always thought it was the most original thing to give.

Where do you like to go for a chopp? I can have an ice-cold chopp with a lot of creamy foam anywhere. But if I am picking a place for the quality of the chopp, I like going to Braz. If I am having a chopp for the vibe of the place, I like anywhere with a veranda where you can see the fashions on the street… I think that’s great. The Azul Marinho is a place that I adore; not much for the chopp, but having a little beer there is amazing. It’s a bar at Arpoador and the chairs are always on the sidewalk, right in front of the beach. The bar is nothing exceptional, but because of its location and view, everything gets wonderful.

www.blueman.com.br

“We never forget our first Jeff Koons”

BUM BUM IPANEMA The creator of the thong talks about Ipanema, women, sports and his 34 years old business. Written By Marcella Saads

It was a windy afternoon when I met with Cidinho Pereira on a beach kiosk facing a calm sea and a beach tennis match disputed by his fellow players. You see, despite being 73 years old, Cidinho keeps up with his sports regularly: he is on it from Kite Surf to Judo. On that note, he was also having a beer on the beach at 4pm of a cloudy Wednesday. Bon vivant by nature, Cidinho started off the interview with a rather informal tone: ‘I’m kind of tipsy already. Just one beer is enough to get me going!’ And boy, did he go. “When I came to Rio at the age of 6, I moved straight to Copacabana. My life has always been sports and the beach”, which naturally led the conversation to his 34 years old bikini brand, BumBum - aka Booty. The creation of Bumbum happened organically. Before dealing with fashion, Cidinho was in fact a registrar. He only got involved with clothing due to an affair he had in the 70s ‘I gave my career up to become an entrepreneur and beach bum, which was when I moved to Barra da Tijuca. There, I opened a store with one of my love affairs of the time, who already had some business in the field’. After getting bankrupt, Cidinho came to notice that the only way women could shop for bikinis was by scooping through an option of 10 pieces displayed in a basket of any given clothing store. In fact, before the mid 70’s there weren’t any stores exclusively dedicated to beach wear. Luckily, by the time he found that out, Rio was hosting a fashion fair. One of the suppliers taking part in the fair reached out for Cidinho to help him with his stand. ‘He heard I was good

people and that I knew everybody on the beach – at that time everybody would go to former Monte Negro, actual Vinicius, in Ipanema’. Not only did Cidinho help at the stand, but he also let the supplier live under his roof. ‘The guy came to live at mine for a while and ended up owning me some money, which he paid back with bikinis. He inspired me to create a bikini brand, which at the time sounded like a great idea. Not long after, I went on and built the first Bumbum store at Visconde do Piraja Street, the heart of Ipanema’. Now, you can imagine whata revolution that store was for the cariocas: ‘it that had 2000 bikinis to choose from. Oh the chicks... Can you imagine having a store of 2000 bikinis when they had never had more than 10 options to choose from before? We had different sunkinis, bustiers, tie finishing, bikinis to hold your body up, etc’. Even today, after over three decades of existence, Bumbum is still ‘focused on the woman and on giving her what she wants the most’. And what is it that women want the most, Cidinho? ‘Whatever they want at the time. I remember, in 1984 or so, when the Pepino beach, in Sao Conrado, became a point due to the rise of hang-gliding’ – which by the way is still the place to go if one wants to try the sport. Because of the trend, and to honour the gliders, Cidinho developed a bikini called ‘Asa-delta’ – hang-glider, or high-cut bikini. ‘It has the design of a hang-glider’, and should I add, looks beautiful on the ladies. This style has a high cut, and in order to wear it, one must be prepared to expose part of their parts – hence the

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famous Brazilian wax (Thank you very much, Cidinho). Not only happy with a style that requires a VIP membership to the wax lady down the road, Cidinho comes along and notices that Brazilian women on the beach would pull their bikinis up for a better sun mark. ‘I saw that women would pull up their bikini bottoms up and tug, and stretch and tow them, leaving a lot of useless fabric accumulate on their coccyx, and there was that pile of fabric hanging there for nothing’. So he cut off the extra Lycra and created the string bikini - which in fact, he doesn’t like calling string, nor thong, because ‘there is a beautiful design to it; it shapes the body of the woman. I call it Ibiza’. Indeed, when it comes to creations, he goes with the flow. At one point the mentioned, as if he was talking to a customer, ‘what is it that you want? A bikini? Is your breast L? XL? S? M? Crooked? Is one boob facing one way, and the other facing the other way? We can fix that! We will make a bikini that makes you boobies look right’. According to him, noticing a beach trend is a natural thing. ‘Well, you know where a plane is landing: just look at its cockpit and you know it. If the cockpit is pointing here, it won’t land there. It’s a tendency just like fashion’s. Everything is involved’. Under such fluidity is how Cidinho still lives his life. Friends with most barraqueiros –owners of the beach kiosks -, he was the first person to donate beach umbrellas to them. No wonder he knows them on a first name basis. ‘Here we are all friends’. From the models and actresses that wore his daring bikinis on the 80’s,

to the world champion beach tennis player, Alessandro Calbucci who only wears Bumbum to play, to the barraqueiros on the beach, Cidinho has kept his low profile and high success throughout his life. And if he keeps up in this rhythm, he still will in many years to come.

www.bumbum.com.br

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Fernando Cozendey at home/studio

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fernando cozendey The beachwear designer whose prints are made of actual patters of Lycra talks about how crazy people inspire him to always evolve. Written By Marcella Saads

Fernando is a swimwear designer who builds his pieces as if he was building a puzzle of shapes and colours made out of Lycra. He never prints anything onto the fabric: instead, he cuts exact patterns that will compose the drawing he wants to have on the piece, and hand sews them together - which makes his bikinis unique and very limited. Even though this process sounds sophisticated and coutureesque, Fernando applies to his swimwear the most literal subjects. Take for instance when he made the cowboy suit our model is wearing on page 42: it has fringes, a collar, buttons and even an trompe l’oeil petit coat. She kind of looks like Woody from Toy Story, but it’s fine to be a little playful with swimwear, especially when taking into consideration that “people that buy my things are all young at mind and have a similar profile: they are forward, energetic, a bit crazy and love having fun. In fact their lives are all about the fun”. Clearly, due to the nature of his material, his clients take care of their bodies. But you ought to realise we are talking about Brazilian women here, and even his 50 year old clients look fantastic in his incredibly tight swimsuits. “A 50 year old lady bought one of the suits the other day and looked amazing. She keeps on sending me photos of her in the swimsuit. People like her inspire me to evolve and develop new patterns, new themes, new techniques and new collections.” But don’t go thinking he is designing to a mentally dubious elder public only: his tops are adorable, and extremely contemporary. In fact this

TV presenter, Fernanda Lima, wears his things all the time – and trust me (or Google it), she is young, gorgeous and I definitely want to be wearing what she’s wearing (or at least have the body she has to wear what she wears). Still, back to Fernando, one cannot help but recognise that he has got something new and extremely valuable to the swimwear. Are women wearing it on the beach?, I ask. “They wear the suits to parties”, but it’s fun to know that you can always take a dip into the pool when things suddenly heat up - we are in Rio, after all, and this is always a possibility. To find his pieces one can visit Sala de Estar, Eu Amo and Parceria Carioca. Addresses found on the back of this issue.

Tips View from the Botafogo Beach where you can see the Sugar Loaf.

Although it is a tempting suggestiong, don’t swim at the Botagofo Beach because it’s filthy and dirty.

Original Beer anywhere at Place São Salvador, Flamengo. 103

a Person born and raised in rio de janeiro. obs: PEOPLE THAT LOVE RIO CAN ALSO Call THEMSELVES CARIOCAS. 104

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peRDIGÃO

Head of Youth Marketing in his own company, EPA!, this boy uses his resourcefulness to make Rio a better place everyday and is here to explain what Rio is all about. Written By Marcella Saads

“I have graduate in advertising, and the advertisement market is all in São Paulo. Because I did not want to leave Rio at all, I decided to create my own company. I belong to Rio. My family, my friends and the beaches are here. The city has grown to become one, which is great for the society. I have transited through all the parts of the city and have friends from every corner of the town from North Rio to South Rio”. Perdigão has developed a methodology in which he comes into a case of study first as an observer and then blends the characteristics of the brand with people that would be relevant for the idea. “Truth be told, I try my best to make the people forget that they are part of a program” – these people are, by the way, unpaid, so Perdigão and his company need to create amazing cases to keep them interested - and trust me, they are. Recently they have developed cases for Redley, a lifestyle fashion brand from Rio, Itaú, Latin American’s largest bank, the beer Skol, world famous Pepsi, the largest TV station in Brazil, Globo TV, Rio’s fashion empire, Farm and many other – vey relevant- brands. His job is to communicate the messages and the stories of these brands to a young public. “These people we embrace in our branding process are a very spontaneous part of it. There is this thing we call ‘the sweet spot’, which is when the person experiences so much that brand’s lifestyle that it turns into their reality”. hich than upgrades the brand to a lifestyle brand - which is what Rio is all about. “Rio is totally lifestyle”, he says. “The beach brings this unique characteristic for Rio in Brazil. When comparing Rio with other cities, it becomes a centre of references for creativity here in Brazil. It is something that the carioca has, that is difficult to explain, but that’s the element that differentiates Rio from the other cities.”

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Could it be a touch of unpretentiousness? Could be unpretentiousness. We have this almost ‘anti-professionalism’ because we see the beach as ‘our office’. I think that everybody wants to be like that. It feels like SP is earning all the money for us - which pisses the paulistas off – and we are simply enjoying our lives. But really, the good carioca knows how to use the city traits and also work really hard. If the dude has the carioca lifestyle, that means that he goes to the beach everyday, escapes during lunch break to take a dip at the sea, or jog by the lagoon, and always finds time to go to the Maraca, or the BG on a Thursday night - and he can still conciliate all that with work. Another thing I love about Rio is that the natural beauty is very intense, so one doesn’t need to escape the city to find a peace of mind and achieve a harmony with the nature. For example, if you are going to work by bike you are probably going to go by the seaside, or the lagoon; and if you live at Barra and works at the centre of Rio, you will drive on the Elevado do Joá and will watch a fucking awesome sunrise, which means that even though you are stuck in traffic, you will photograph the view and upload it on Instagram - like everyone doesand simply say ‘fuck the traffic, look at the city where I live’. So if you can conciliate work and lifestyle, you will reach a natural happiness, which is one of the reasons that influenced me to open my company here in Rio.

brands portrait this lifestyle, like Farm, Osklen or Redley, everybody wants to be a part of it. It is like a common dream for Brazilian people to move to Rio and live here at least for a while. At the same time, we are in a moment when the whole world is looking at us, so we have a lot of opportunities available here – all you need to do is wait for the right wave and ride it right: Just keep your eyes opened at every occasion. Who are the pepople that are making a difference in Rio? I consider two great friends of mine as relevant developers of the city: the artist Marcelo Macedo, aka Mack. He represents the city very well. There is also the music producer Pedro Bernardes, aka Wladmir Gasper, whose music is contagious and inspiring. I also admire Bá, at Comuna, who is helping out the fashion designers that are starting out by giving them some room for them to produce and create. I think Demian Jacob is also a cool guy, along with Yuri Sardenberg: they are two very talented photographers. I think that the skate movement from Praça XV is also cool; they meet every Monday at 10pm at the Circo Voador to discuss what are the positive things that they can do for the skate scene in Rio. They don’t have any support, but no matter what they still have this will to do something awesome. Which the brands from Rio do you like?

Why do you think that the movements and brands that start in Rio become so successful elsewhere in Basil?

I like Aüslander and Redley, and wear them a lot. They both represent Rio very well, by the way.

Everyone that isn’t from Rio wants to have a piece of Rio. So when the

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Where do you like to go to have a chopp? I like having a ‘stupidly’ cold chopp with foam at BG. Over there, I also like having lunch at the Braseiro – picanha, broccoli rice and Portuguese potato are the best call.

I can go for a meeting and if we decide to have a chopp, we go ahead and have it. We don’t get attached to things. It is this unpretentiousness that is very characteristic of Rio. We enjoy every moment of life. What is your ideal day in Rio?

What do you like to do on your day off? I surf at the Reserva; I skate at the bowl by the Lagoon… And I love to skate around the seaside with a long board skate… But really, I don’t usually have a day off – I think about work 24/7. Even when I surf I think about work. I love what I do, so it’s very immersed in me. But when I get to have some free time I love to eat a lot at the Braseiro and at the Manekineko – the best Japanese restaurant ever: I particularly love their special dishes.

Waking up early, going to the beach and surfing. But, to be honest, in Ipanema we don’t get many waves, so I do what every carioca who is legit does: I take a dip in the sea at least once a week to wash my soul. And I do feel like I am cleaning my spirit and all. So in my ideal day I would wake up early, go to the beach, go to work because I love my work-, go out for a chopp at the BG, and then go to a chilled party at the Comuna. What’s your favourite view from Rio?

Is there an image, song or smell that you relate to Rio? The sea: the salty water represents Rio very well for me. An image would be more like behaviour in my opinion; something like a carioca way of being: a bit rascal, but cool. We are very different from other people: both men and women. Also there is that thing that we do when we bump into someone we know and we go like ‘Holy shit! What’s up, dude? How have you been? So good to see you! Let’s go surfing soon and all” and the dude goes like “Yeah, for sure, this Thursday” and you will go like “cool, sweet, I’ll call you” and you will never see the guy again; actually you probably don’t even have his number. We live without a script; we don’t want to plan stuff. Planning is for paulista, with their little diary. But here in Rio,

At the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, around the area of Ipanema, by the Garcia D’Ávila Street, where you can see the Christ and the Botanic Garden completely. What is a souvenir that you would give from Rio? The sand from Ipanema – I would put it in a pot, and give it as a piece of Ipanema. Probably with a bit of creased packaging of the Globo crackers. What is Rio for you? Rio for me is very sensorial. It has its own smell, its natural beauty, gastronomy and music. It is the feeling of going out on the streets and knowing everybody, even though you don’t know

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anyone. It is dealing with very different people that have something in common that connect them together somehow. It is being intense and knowing when to relax. It is being happy with yourself and appreciating the place where you live.

GRANADO Centenary Pharmacy Completely Made in Rio. Text and image by Marcella Saads

In case you didn’t know, Brazil used to have a monarchy too, just like England’s Mountbatten-Windsor. Naturally, our last names were longer, but we had just as many pampering and exclusivity as Kate and Will get now a days. In fact there was this pharmacy that would be the only supplier for the Royal Family in Brazil – something like the Waitrose, only that this time there would be no horse meet involved. The products this pharmacy would make were specific to the Brazilian weather – more specifically, to Rio’s weather, because that’s where the monarchy used to live. Real status apart, the products were made out of vegetal extracts, herbs and Brazilian flowers cultivated on the owner’s backyard in Teresópolis, Rio. Their texture was light enough to stand the heat and don’t melt down your royalty’s complexion at the same time as bringing that flawless glow we all love to brag about. Great news is that even after 143 years of existence, that pharmacy still exists and has kept up with the quality and lightness of their products. It is called Granado and a visit to its headquarters in the centre of Rio is a must do in every visit paid to the city. So go ahead and delight yourself at Rua Primeiro de Março, 16 – Centro, and make sure you bring some real good goodies along with you. More info on www.granado.com.br.

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Imperial Soaps: Repica of the soaps used by the Brazlian Impire in the 1880â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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MELISSA Plastic Shoes perfect for the beach. Text and image by Marcella Saads

You probably have seen one of Melissa’s goodies around. Well, in case you think you didn’t, allow us to refresh you memory. Do you remember Vivienne Westwood’s plastic high heels? What about Gareth Pugh’s plastic sandals? Well, yes, these shoes were all designer collaborations they had with this Brazilian brand called Melissa. In fact, Melissa has had the hands of Jean Paul Gaultier, Jason Wu, Karim Rashid and Thierry Mugler getting dirty with Melissa’s deliciously smelling plastic material. This brand has been around ever since the 70s, and went from a water proof sandal inspired by the French Riviera fishmen to glitter sensation over the years. Now the top Alessandra Ambrosio and the collaboration-junkie Karl Lagerfield are the new heads behind Melissa’s newest designs. Well, you can still find the original fishmenlike sandals, but to be honest it is good to have the most diverse models to choose from. Did we mention they smell delicious? Maybe you should sniff a pair or two in London at Browns, or when you’re in Rio, at their Copacabana store, at Av. Nossa Sra. Copacabana 664, Loja 22. More info on: http://www.melissa.com.br/en

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ANDRÉ CARVALHAL Marketing Manager at one of the most cariocas brands in Rio, André is here to share with us some of his Rio. Written by Marcella Saads

What do you usually do on your day off? I rarely get a day off, but when I do I tend to mix leisure with work. I’m always observing my surroundings – I like going to places where I have the option to see an art exhibition, go to the movies, listen to some good music and watch a play all in the same location: like the Instituto Moreira Salles, or Casa Laura Alvim, or Comuna - where you can go get some amazing clothes and then move on to see their latest exhibiton in their art gallery. What is Rio for you? Flip flops and a Bermuda. I don’t think there is any other cities in the world where people wear flip flops and Bermudas quite like they do in Rio. Is there a smell that makes you thinking of Rio? If I were to define Rio as a smell, that smell would be that of açaí. You know, having an açaí is the first thing I do when I get back from abroad. I like having it at any of those juice houses spread around the city. My favourite toppings would be banana, strawberries and granola. What would your ideal day be like? Waking up early, going to the beach, followed by a waterfall shower at the Horto. I would then have lunch at Baixo Gávea – I like every single bar over there -, before grabing a juice at Polis or at Bibi on the way to Arpoador to watch the sunset.

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ANDRĂ&#x2030; Carvalhal at home

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Ferns & Her wardrobe Graphic designer who adopted Rio

as her town, despite the smell and the chaos. Image and text by Marcella Saads

What’s your favourite view of Rio? I really like the view from the top of Vidigal – the sunrise over there is wonderful. I also really like the view from the Aterro, when I’m coming from the airport and I can see the Sugar Loaf… Is there a smell that gets you thinking of Rio? Ok, so after I got here I realised that Rio has 5 smells: sewer, piss, shit, manure and rotting fish – but in a good way. I kind of feel good when I smell this because that makes me realise that I am in Rio…

Speaking of your style, how many clothes have you got in your incredible compilation of clothes? Shit, that’s a hard question. I don’t know, but I can guarantee that I gave away 2/3 of it recently. I must own something around 350 pieces at the moment. And do you have a favourite? I’ve been wearing a lot of these golden platform shoes by New Order lately.

But despite the smell, what was your first impression when you moved here? When I first moved here I went to live in Copacabana. For a girl coming from Brasilia, I remember finding it all very chaotic. There were people walking on the sidewalks all day long, and that was not common for me. Now I am one of these people that are always out on the street doing something. What is the style of the carioca like? The fewer clothes the better, because fucking hell, it is hot in Rio. At least this was the style I adopted for myself. I really like layers, but here in Rio the thing is to eliminate the most layers you can. I am actually in a bit of a slut phase wearing everything cropped.

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This is Ferns’ dog, Ricotta -like the cheesehanging around wearing her owner’s amazing platform shoes by New Order. Detail to Ricotta’s eyebrows: these are browjazzles for real bitches only.

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This is a lively Copacabana at 3am

ACERVO &

The coolest new brand made in Rio. Written By Marcella Saads

The girls

A lot of the people I’ve interviewed mentioned these two girls when I would ask for interesting new designers in Rio. Well, one day I came along to check what the buzz was all about. From what I’ve been told, Luiza (the girl on your left) and Marcella (the girl on your right) are two very young girls (as you can see) that make incredible fashion for a ‘worldly carioca’ – “you know, that girl who is from Rio and although she loves it here, she can’t deny the many other references surrounding her” Luiza explains with a beer on her hand. As I came in this beautiful outdoors corridor filled with plants, the two lovely designers greet me as if their atelier were their home. “Would you like some coffee? Water? Beer?” Offers Luiza – But since I’m driving (and DUI charges are taken extremely seriously over here) I had to contain myself to a glass of water. As I sit on a bench located at their veranda, in came Marcella from the kitchen with my glass of water and their cans of beer. Cigarettes? Check. Lighter? Check. Ash tray? –The empty can will do, so – Check (Yes, I did make myself at home that afternoon). Now we are ready to go. The girls started off telling me about their creative process. They are always trying to experiment, especially because they are young and still have the time and the energy to insert themselves completely into a new collection. Their most recent process involved a book filled with designs drawn by the both of them. ‘Our challenge was to bring chaos into our creative process’, explains Marcella, who concludes ‘and transform something always assimilated with darkness, confusion and weight into a spring summer collection’.

So the girls designed their own looks, shuffled them in a bounded notebook, sliced them in eight numbered parts and asked their Facebook fans to send over random combinations of numbers. Each combination created a new look out of the looks they have originally designed, and after some editing here and there, they had their ss13 collection. Marcella: The greatest thing about owning an independent company is allowing ourselves the luxury of always reaching for something new. It is our responsibility as fashion designers to bring something new to the table every season. How did you girls start this business? Ma: We started at the same time as did Sala de Estar, in September 2011, and the owner of the store invited Luiza to sell the things she designed at this new store. Lu: Acervo wasn’t even a brand yet. It was something very informal whenshe asked me to sell at her store. She explained me about the project and I organized what I had at the time into a brand – which was when Marcella came in. We have worked together in another company, so when she joined me, things really moved on. Ma: And we already had a stockist… Lu: And the production was all over. We were going to make 80 pieces for our first collection, but we could only produce 34. Ma: That’s because we did the whole thing in two weeks! We wanted to launch the first collection at the debut party of Sala de Estar…

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Luiza and Marcella, the creative directors at Acervo

Silk top and knee high skirt by Acervo

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Crochet top by Acervo Jeans Bikini Top by Blue Man Brasil Model: Manoela Marandino Words and images by Marcella Saads

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Lu: And I remember the party started at 6 and we got there by 9! And even though we were 3 hours late, our stock was virtually over. We delivered 34 pieces for that night and only 7 pieces weren’t sold at that point. The public there understands us. Would you say your brand represents Rio? Ma: It has the feel of a new Rio. Lu: Yeah, it’s a wordly Rio. Our girl doesn’t want to dress like everybody else, but she’s got that carioca thing. Cariocas have this thing of beauty because of their proximity to the beach, so we always want to feel good and to be beautiful. I don’t think our brand has that vibe of the classic carioca who simply clothes herself with a long printed dress and walks along the sidewalk – and the scenario of the city by itself creates the feel of a carioca. Ma: It’s about having a non-obvious sexy tone. Rio is very sexy, but it isn’t an obvious kind of sexy. It’s a lot about the posture and the ways of a person: how she behaves, her smile, etc. So it’s a stripped down behaviour, but the clothes don’t need to be stripped down per se. The girl may be wearing a more dressed up outfit, with a sleeker feel to it, but it will always have something there: be it a transparency, or a play with colours. Lu: Cariocas are simple, and this is a very important value for us. We valorise what the person is and has. Ma: Especially because if we get all dolled up here in Rio we would melt the second we stepped out on the street! What feels like Rio for you? Lu: I think its movement in general. I think Rio is fluid and light. Ma: Rio is definitely light. It is a lot about well being, and I have a feeling that if someone looks at Rio from the outside, life here seems easy.

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MARCELLA FRANKLIN & Her lifestyle

Fashion Designer who represents the essence of what it is to be made in Rio. Written By Marcella Saads

Her long and golden locks are the cherry on the top of this charming 24 years old fashion designer Friendly, good-natured and simply cool, Marcella has been voted a top 5 carioca on a recent contest held by the lifestyle website RioEtc. And RioEtc was not the only publication to be enchanted by the blonde: Vogue Brazil has described her as ‘la crème de la crème’ when it comes to a genuine carioca style. Marcella designs for one of the coolest brands of the city, Aüslander, and is constantly bringing vintage references to the studio. In fact, on the beach she rocks the hot pants she designs like no one else. ‘But what about the sun mark?’ I eloquently ask her ‘I hang around during the morning with the hot pants, and when the sun gets stronger I take them off just to tan with a smaller bikini I would be wearing underneath. I put the hot pants back on for the sunset’. Smart girl. During a delicious hour of bruschettas at Leblon’s spot ‘Prima Bruschetteria’, Marcella shared with me notes on her secret spot in town and some curious facts about her unconstrained ‘carioquice’. She shares with her boyfriend a hidden spot at the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. ‘It is our favourite view. It is right in front of the helipad, on the skate park. It is beautiful at night with the city lights and the dark sky. From there we can see the

mountains, the lagoon, the buildings, the cars. We always stop by when we are around’. Even though she is a huge fan of roller-skates, she is cheating on them with a long board skate ‘I enjoy skating at Delfim Moreira – water front avenue in Leblon - when the road is closed on Sunday’. Every Sunday the water front avenues in Rio are closed for cars and open for pedestrians. In fact this habit of skating in the streets on a Sunday is part of Marcella’s ideal journey in Rio. In a perfect day she would wake up early, go to the beach at Maria Quitéria, in Ipanema, or Posto 12, in Leblon, skate by the beach, and end the day in a picnic with her girlfriends by the Palafitas for ‘an amazing sunset’. This chilled value she maintains during the day gets a little distorted at night, when she enjoys partying to the synthesized dub step sound of the Brazilian DJ Wladmir Gasper. ‘I get shivers all over when I watch him play. It’s always a performance’. A rather contemporary taste for someone so tuned with vintage. ‘I love thrift stores. My favourite one is the ‘Garimpo Carioca’, at Flamengo.

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caio braz DJ, TV presenter of the most watched fashion programme in the country and also a fashion designer, Caio Braz dons his own tropical creation to talk about Rio. Written By Marcella Saads

What feels like Rio to you? The Baixo Gávea is the best thing to do in Rio. It’s a very informal environment, filled with beautiful people and Brazilian food for a fair price – I can’t imagine a place like the BG in São Paulo, for example. If it did exist in SP it would be quickly drawn to some finesse or some rather extorted prices. At the BG there’s also the Stos Dumont fair. The antiques there take you to the golden carioca ages. BG is the only place in the world that we won’t complain if we have to wait in line for one hour and a half.

What is a terrible thing to do in Rio? Going to the bars and restaurants at the seaside of Copacabana. They are filled with unadvised tourists that will pay extravagant prices. What is your favourite view of the town? The takeoffs and landings at Santos Dumont Airport are dreamy. It is always a good call to fly on the right side of the plane.

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Caio Braz wearing shirt by Caio Braz

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DONA COISA Former banker who decided to open a store for women that value their earnings. Written By Marcella Saads

So this is Roberta. She used to work in finance, until one day she realized there were no cool shops for wonderful women like her in Rio. Well, you know, women that are smart, carioca, hard-working and thoughtful of their expenses. Not that they don’t like spending money: trust me, you need some paper to afford her store. But the items you will find there are going to be unique, timeless, exclusive and ever lasting. So let’s put it properly: Roberta created a store for women that value their money. If you are one of those, then a visit must be paid to Dona Coisa. There you will find amazing clothes curated to a carioca atmosphere. Also, don’t forget to have a look at Roberta’s tips… a hint of sophistication is always welcome to a balneary holiday.

Tips Riding a bike from Jardim Botanico to Vista Chinesa. Lunch at Quadrifólio.

Dinner at Gero. A sophisticated Brazilian meal at 66 Bistrô with friends.

All clothing and accessories are Roberta’s own, and can all be found at Dona Coisa. Rua Lopes Quintas, 153. More info at www.donacoisa.com.br

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rique inglez Lawyer, street artist and tattooist. Text and image by Marcella Saads

His name is Rique, and he is a lawyer who kind of gave everything up to become a tattoo artist. In case you were wondering, he definitely did not make these tattoos you see in the Polaroid. He reserved his left thigh to his non-tattooist friends to doodle around it. I kind of love the look of it. If you feel like getting a proper tattoo done, though, go ahead and have a look at his work on the facebook page of his street art gallery/tattoo studio Galeria Nove Cinco. Or seriously, just hop on a plane and go pay them a visit at Rua Francisco de SĂĄ, 95 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Copacabana. You will not regret the trip - nor the tattoo.

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Riqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s left leg filled with his non-tattooist friends doodles

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peu MELlo An artist who sees art from

surf to the sidewalks of Rio. Text and image by Marcella Saads

Peu mello is the contemporary artist who is involved in anything new and amazing that happens in Rio – or elsewhere. Elsewhere because he recently filmed a surf documentary called BiarritzMarroco, which has a pretty much selfexplanatory name. Despite this filmmaking moment he had then, Peu actually prefers Instagram to the good old camera because ‘it’s just so much more casual and effortless’. This informality sets the tone to his lifestyle that is paradoxically busy due to the uncountable projects he is part of – including the position of Creative Director he holds in the new womenswear brand FYI. When he is not at meetingor producing something, you will find him at BG, having a beer ‘right off the cooler’ – you see, it is very commonto just buy some beer out on the streetas if you were in a stadium- or at the grotto he calls home. He lives in Joá, which is located on the hill that separates Barra da Tijuca from Zona Sul. The view from his house is gorgeous, but he also loves the view from ‘Pedra da Gávea’, which is a hill popularly climbed by people. In fact, not far from his house is located a tiny beach called Joatinga, where he chose to be his surfing spot. He loves a cloudy Rio because ‘when the sea is kind of gray and the sky is dark there is poetry in the air, and this melancholy contrasts with what people usually think of Rio’. He loves the irregular and poorly-finished sidewalks of the city, that represent well the informal atmosphere of Rio. In his Rio, the smell of the beach blends with the gray of a rainy sky, creating a poetry so characteristic to the genre of music he relates to the city, the Bossa Nova. Based on his insights, the pages to follow show the side of Rio Peu is so fascinated about.

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a rainy rio What to do when it rains in the city of blue skies: Cariocas recommend top 5 things to do in a rainy day. Text and images by Marcella Saads

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Instituto Moreira Salles This is an Art Gallery located in a gorgeous building with gardens by Roberto Burle Marx. R. Marquês de São Vicente, 476 Gavea

Surf Believe it or not cariocas love surfing when it rains. If you are brave enough, feel free to ckeck waves daily at www.ricosurf.com.br

MAM Museum of Modern Arts Huge pavillion filled with arts and exhibitions. Av. Infante Dom Henrique, 85 - Parque do Flamengo

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Shopping At Shopping Leblon or at Rio Design Leblon. Might as well, right? Av. Afrânio de Melo Franco, 290

Bars Nothing better than spending that wet afternoon at a bar with a couple of friends. Cariocas highly recommend Astor, at Av. Vieira Souto, 104-110 - Ipanema

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Thanks,

Ă gil Comunicacao Ana Paiva at Ford Models Camila Reis Cidinho Pereira at BumBum Ipanema Fernanda Rebello FlĂĄvia Lanat Hywel Davies Iain Webb Iury Trannin Julia Miranda Kay Baron Luana Pinheiro Manoela Marandino Mariana Goldfarb Martin Andersen Paula Pinud Pedro Pirim Sergio Mattos at 400 Models Thomaz Azulay at Blue Man

For all your help. 144

Listings Of places, people and more tips Please access www.thisismagazine.co.uk and use your reader password RIORIO

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Sunset at LBELON, Posto 12 147

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