MARWAR

KRISHNA KUMAR PITTIE OF BUSINESS & SPIRITUALITY

BIMLA PODDAR

SEVENTY-NINE AND GOING STRONG

RAMNATH GOENKA

TORCHBEARER OF FREE SPEECH

Forever thine Forever mine

H

aving come up the hard way to make their mark in the world of enterprise, one of the most defining facets of Marwaris is the judiciousness with which they spend every rupee, even if it be a billionaire.

Yet, if there is one occasion when Marwaris tend to throw caution to the wind and spend outrageously, it is a wedding. A family wedding is no doubt very important business for a Marwari. With the wedding season going full blast, we have dedicated our cover to this all important institution, featuring the big, fat Marwari wedding in a colourful photo essay.

Our focus on weddings actually spills on other aspects of the grand occasion such as the growing trend of destination weddings and the glitter and resplendence that has made steady inroads into such areas as wedding gifting and bridal conveyance. We have dedicated a couple of articles to these unmistakable areas of today’s Marwari weddings.

Gone are the days when a Marwari essentially meant a businessman. The recently departed Jagmohan Dalmiya, who was the president of Board of Control for Cricket in India, and Keshav Bangur, the president of the Calcutta Polo Club, are examples of today’s Marwaris taking work and play equally importantly. Read our tribute to the unforgettable Dalmiya, who changed the face of Indian cricket and a stimulating Q&A session with Bangur, who is credited with giving the once defunct

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MARWAR INDIA

EDITOR’S NOTE

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2015

Calcutta Polo Club a new lease of life.

Among entrepreneurs, the spotlight is on Krishna Kumar Pittie, the chairman of the Pittie Group, a man who has successfully turned his hand to varied fields including real estate, media, entertainment, e-commerce, FMCG, wellness and quick service restaurants.

In our tribute section, we have remembered the iconic Ramnath Goenka, the most vociferous opponent of the Emergency period and the greatest crusader of the freedom of speech that was under threat during the Emergency and after. Read about the diehard p1whose contributions as a social worker-cum-philanthropist and in preserving India’s cultural heritage deserve special mention.

We have also covered Padma Shri Bimla Poddar in the issue, wife of late industrialist Bimal Kumar Poddar, whose contributions as a social workercum-philanthropist and in preserving India’s cultural heritage deserve special mention.

With all this and more we bring you yet another interesting issue of Marwar.

MANECK DAVAR Editor

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November-December 2015 * Volume 21 * issue 6 * Price r150 * $6

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EDITOR & PUBLISHER | Maneck Davar SENIOR ASSISTANT EDITOR | Debarati Chakraborty EDITORIAL | Joseph Rozario, Pooja Mujumdar DESIGN | Manjari Loya DIGITAL IMAGING | Vikas Padloskar, Rohit Nayak, Sunil Kadam ADMINISTRATION TEAM | General Manager — Bobby Daniel STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER | Dhiman Chatterjee MARKETING TEAM | Director Marketing & Sales — Geetu Rai Tel: +91 99200 23908 | +91 98442 65885

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Marwar India, a bi-monthly magazine of Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd, is printed and published by Maneck Davar, on behalf of Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd. Printed at Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd, Peninsula Spenta, Plot no 15,16 & 21/1, Chikloli Village, Morivali M.I.D.C, Ambernath (W) - 421505. Published from Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd, Peninsula Spenta, Mathuradas Mill Compound, N M Joshi Marg, Lower Parel (W), Mumbai 400 013.

Editor - Maneck Davar.

The views and opinions expressed or implied in Marwar are those of the authors and do not neccessarily reflect those of Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd. Unsolicited articles and transparencies are sent in at the owner’s risk and the publisher accepts no liability for loss or damage. Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd. Printed using CTP technology at Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd. For all editorial & marketing queries, e-mail: ho@spentamultimedia.com.

CONTENTS * November-December

2015 * Volume 21 * issue 6 Cover Image Courtsey: Rajesh Gupta

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CULTURE THE CLARION CALL OF KASHI

TRIBUTE JAGMOHAN DALMIYA

Although Bimla Poddar had plans to spend her advanced years quietly on the banks of the Ganges, Baba Vishwanath, she feels, had other plans for her. Awarded the Padma Shri this year, Poddar's contributions to revive India's cultural heritage merits special mention.

Jagmohan Dalmiya, the man responsible for transforming cricket into a multibillion dollar industry and turning India into a financially powerful cricketing nation is no more. MARWAR pays tribute to the man who changed the face of cricket.

50 Q&A RIDING HIGH Calcutta Polo Club, the world’s oldest polo club, is gearing up to celebrate its 155th anniversary next year. With MARWAR, president Keshav Bangur speaks about reviving the club, his hometown in Rajasthan and his home turf in Kolkata.

CONTENTS * November-December

2015 * Volume 21

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issue 6

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FIRST PERSON THE SARTORIAL STITCH Sanjiv Shroff and his father Shanker Lal Shroff launched their bespoke shirts and trousers brand, Camessi, in 2006. In a first-person account, Sanjiv Shroff talks about how Rajasthani village women are trained and employed to deliver the perfect sartorial stitch.

PROFILE A MAN FOR ALL SEASONS Initiated in 1989, the Pittie Group has been successful in not only being a demand and supply intermediary, but also in creating value for customers through its diverse interests. In an interview with MARWAR, Krishna Kumar Pittie, chairman of the group, talks about his journey so far and his future plans.

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68 COVER STORY FOREVER THINE, FOREVER MINE Weddings in India tend to be elaborate, long-drawn, feisty affairs, but most pale in comparison to Marwari weddings, which are not just big and fat but fabulously, wondrously so. MARWAR brings you glimpses of this all important occasion in a colourful photo essay that captures the most distinguishing nuances of the fabled Marwari wedding.

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MARWAR PERSPECTIVES WOMEN IN BUSINESS Marwari women today are exploring new avenues, following their dreams, and making meaningful philanthropic contributions. MARWAR talks to a few such women to find out how they were supported by their families in discovering what they really enjoyed doing and in successfully pursuing their passions.

WEDDING SPECIAL TRACKING TROUSSEAU TRENDS MARWAR talks to three connoisseurs from the Marwari community to find out what the top trousseau trends of the season are.

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TRIBUTE THE INDOMITABLE BARON OF THE FOURTH ESTATE

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FOOD A GASTRONOMIC RHAPSODY The desire to innovate is pushing gourmet restaurants in India to offer exceptional fare by using excellent produce and weaving in interesting narratives to make dining an emotional and intellectual experience. MARWAR talks to the owners of three new restaurants in Mumbai who are pushing the envelope with innovative, theme-based fares and interiors.

Marwar pays tribute to Ramnath Goenka, the unforgettable baron of the fourth estate, whose life was as much an enigma as a celebration of patriotism, freedom of speech, raw courage and a never-say-die spirit. A burning passion for all that he held dear, an intense sense of purpose, a firebrand patriot, an indefatigable warrior - these are traits that best characterise Goenka, the architect of The Indian Express Group.

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108 WEDDING SPECIAL AND THEY LIVED HAPPILY EVER AFTER! From exchanging wedding vows on serene beaches or in the middle of turquoise seas to illuminating monumental mansions that glimmer like a bejewelled adornment of the bride, Marwari weddings have undergone a sea change. MARWAR brings you luxurious wedding destinations that help you transform your wedding into a truly fairytale affair.

BOOK REVIEW FLORAL OPULENCE Vikaas Gutgutia’s Soulebration, a hardback featuring a beautiful array of wedding decor concepts, will leave you spellbound. Ferns n Petals, Gutgutia’s event company, uses flowers to create elaborate sets that reflect professional expertise, which hasbeen captured in this coffee-table book.

112 LUXURY FOR COUPLES ONLY From the palanquin to the plane - the way a bride travels has undergone a sea change over the years. Sweets served in Marwari weddings have also been given a fresh twist.

MARWAR talks to three young entrepreneurs who are offering unique gifting items and conveyance options for the ongoing wedding and festive season.

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ALL THINGS GREAT AND SMALL42

HOME ‘N HEARTH120

HAUTE HOROLOGY122

TREASURE CHEST124

BRAND APPEAL121

THE CLARION CALL OF

KASHI The story of Padma Shri Awardee Bimla Poddar is a classic case of woman proposing and God disposing. She may have made plans to spend advanced years quietly on the banks of the Ganges in the holy town of Kashi, but Baba Vishwanath, she explains, had other plans for her.

Text * Supriya Newar

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CULTURE

H

er mane may be white, her visage may be frail and she may be holding a stick while walking; but if you take what is apparent for the whole truth, you would land up misjudging Bimla Poddar gravely; for this to-be-octogenarian radiates a spirit that defies age and rages strong at 79. As we sit under the shade of a bougainvillea at her South Kolkata bungalow, she takes me through the remarkable contours of her life in a most matter-of-fact way, ascribing it all to nothing more than a celestial conspiracy.

Born in Chirawa, a small town in Jhunjhunu district of Rajasthan, in a traditional Marwari family, Bimla grew up in a colonised India, amidst cries of Inquilab Zindabad and recalls participating in prabhat pheries (early morning rounds) without understanding their significance back then. She would also watch her mother, Ginni Bai, fastidiously perform homely rituals such as watering the tulsi plant and offering water to the sun in the early hours of the day (surya arakh).

Thanks to an early calling for music, Bimla was taught to sing traditional wedding and devotional songs using a harmonium.

Armed with these initial impressions, she wound her way to Calcutta [now Kolkata] where she tied the nuptial knot with Bimal Poddar when she was 13.

In her new home, Bimla got busy discharging her duties as a young bride in a joint family of three brothers, under the watchful eye of her father-in-law, the Late Janki Prasad Poddar, who she remembers

‘‘

reverentially. It was here that her interest in music found greater exposure.

“We would often attend live Indian classical music concerts. I learned the sitar for several years, under the celebrated sitarist Kalyani Roy. I had to give it up due to shoulder pain but continued my exploration in music by learning Rabindra Sangeet. A great stroke of luck brought me close to classical exponent Girija Devi, who accepted me as her disciple; and our bond has blossomed and strengthened over the years. My curiosity in art developed, thanks to my brother-in-law, Suresh, who was a collector of antique items and would bring home all kinds of artefcts, which I gradually learnt to take care of, appreciate and understand,” she says.

Perhaps, it was this atmosphere that helped her overcome the grief and pain of losing her husband when she was 32.

“At that time, my father-in-law offered to get me remarried as he would his own daughter, but I declined, knowing it would be very hard for me to accept another family. This family had showered love upon me and had never discriminated between daughters and daughters-inlaw.”

In 1996, when Bimla turned 60, she decided it was time for her to spend the rest of her years away from the bustling city life. “Kashi, being the cradle of Indian culture and civilisation, was my natural choice, as it would also allow me to be near Maa Ganga.

Kashi, being the cradle of Indian culture and civilisation, was my natural choice, as it would also allow me to be near Maa Ganga.

BIMLA PODDAR

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Above: Classical vocalist Pandit Jasraj, Bimla Poddar, classical exponent Girija Devi, former West Bengal governor Gopalkrishna Gandhi, Pandit Birju Maharaj with his disciple Saswati Sen at Poddar’s annual soirée,‘Gulab Bari’; (Right) Bimla Poddar being bestowed with the Padma Shri award by the President of India, Pranab Mukherjee; Observing Birju Maharaja’s expressions; (Bottom) The sprawling campus of Jnana Pravaha in Varanasi

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MARWAR INDIA NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2015

CULTURE

What transpired though is another story,” she smiles. Upon getting her dream home on Samne Ghat, she started interacting with Kashi’s community, discussing art and other subjects and a barrage of suggestions flowed in. Her brother-in-law, the late Suresh Neotia, was against letting her vegetate. After much musing, a germ of an idea was born. They would set up a Centre for Cultural Studies and call it Jnana Pravaha.

The construction was tedious due to a very challenging site and the take off slow, until Bimla requested the late Dr R C Sharma, who had just retired as the director of Bharat Kala Bhavan, Varanasi, to take charge of the institute. He agreed under the condition that he would not be paid a single penny for the (honorary) role.

“There was no stopping the pravaha of jnana or the flow of knowledge after he became the acharya,” says Krishna Neotia, Bimla’s sister in-law, who joins the conversation. Over the last two decades, Jnana Pravaha has held national and international lectures and seminars, courses, workshops and concerts. It offers a scholar-in-residence programme, a rich museum and library of art and a talent pool of ateliers. The campus offers spacious flora-filled lawns with a majestic view of the Ganges and a separate Yajnashala, where the holy fire or the ‘prajwalit agni’ has stayed lit since the year 2000, despite rain and storm.

The drama group of the institute has presented ed ‘Karnabharam’, a Sanskrit play, at the World Sanskrit Conference 2015, in Thailand.

As the managing trustee of Jnana Pravaha, Bimla Poddar was conferred the Padma Shri Award earlier this year.

But, just as her other accomplishments, she’s quick to shrug this one off too. “My bags are packed and I’m ready to depart, whenever the final call comes,” she offers lightly. But wouldn’t her departure affect the future of her beloved Jnana Pravaha?

“Not at all. It is Baba Vishwanatha who has brought it this far and he will take it further,” she smiles.

JAGMOHAN DALMIYA MARWAR pays tribute to the man who changed the face of cricket.

Jagmohan Dalmiya, the man responsible for transforming cricket into a multi-billion dollar industry and turning India into a financially powerful cricketing nation is no more. Dalmiya is reported to have suffered a massive cardiac arrest on the evening of September 17 and died on the evening of September 20, at BM Birla Heart Research Centre in Kolkata.

He was 75. He was serving his second term as the president of the Board of Control for Cricket in India (BCCI) at the time of his demise.

He is survived by his wife Chandralekha, son Abhishek and daughter Vaishali.

Photos * Anindya Saha

J

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agmohan Dalmiya was born on May 30, 1940, in Calcutta [now Kolkata], to a Marwari family originally from Sikar. Though he did go the traditional Marwari way of taking over the family business—his father, Arjun Prasad Dalmiya, owned the then prosperous construction company, M L Dalmiya & Co—when it came to choosing between business and cricket, it was cricket that held sway over him.

Dalmiya’s passion for cricket started during his Scottish Church College days (in Kolkata), which took him up to club-level cricket, playing successively for Jorabagan Club, Rajasthan Club and National Athletic Club, as an opening batsman and wicketkeeper. But it was his dual role as an administrator that finally took him up the rungs of success.

Dalmiya’s administrative career began with a secretaryship of the Rajasthan Club in 1963. This was followed by stints as treasurer of the Cricket Association of Bengal (CAB) and as treasurer of the BCCI. He was appointed the president of the International Cricket Council (ICC) in 1997 and then president of the BCCI (for the first time) in 2001. Ousted

by Sharad Pawar in the BCCI board elections of 2005, he was subsequently expelled from the BCCI and charged with misappropriation of funds. However, he

MARWAR INDIA

TRIBUTE

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2015

was exonerated of the charges for lack of evidence. Soon after, he went on to successfully run for the presidency of the CAB in 2010. The year 2015 marked Dalmiya’s triumphant return as the BCCI president when he replaced N Srinivasan. But it was to be a short-lived glory as it ended with his sad demise barely six months later.

Dalmiya’s major achievements include lobbying successfully for jointly hosting the 1987 World Cup by India and Pakistan and wresting the telecast rights of cricket matches being played in India from Doordarshan in a legal battle. It enabled BCCI to sell telecast rights and generate huge revenues that transformed it from a financial weakling to the richest cricket board in the world. Using his canny financial and administrative skills, he was also able to leave the ICC richer by millions of dollars during his tenure as its president.

Often referred to as the ‘Machiavelli of Indian Cricket’, Dalmiya had both friends and rivals within the cricketing fraternity, but there is no denying that he popularised cricket, made it wealthier, increased the subcontinent’s clout in the ICC and changed the face of the game like none before.

Above: Jagmohan Dalmiya; Sourav Ganguly pays his last respects to Dalmiya at Eden Gardens.

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RIDING HIGH

IMAGE: SAYANTAN SARKAR

A polo match in full swing at Pat Williamson Polo Grounds, Kolkata; Below: Keshav Bangur, President, Calcutta Polo Club

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QUESTION & ANSWER

Calcutta Polo Club, the oldest in the world, is gearing up to celebrate its 155th anniversary next year.

However, things were not always this exciting, and in 1998 the club had almost become defunct. The club was given a new lease of life when, in 2005, Keshav Bangur took over the reins as president. In a Q&A session with MARWAR, Bangur speaks about his hometown in Rajasthan and his home turf in Kolkata.

Text * Debrati Chakraborty

What does being a Marwari in Kolkata mean to you?

We feel at home in Kolkata. Like a true-blue Marwari in this city, I am committed to Kolkata and to a large extent have adapted to its culture.

When did your family move to Kolkata?

My family moved to Kolkata around the late 1800s.

Do you think life for you would have been different if they had never migrated from Rajasthan?

Who can predict that? I believe one should take life as it comes and try to make the most of the opportunities available. Why ponder over what could have been if circumstances had been different? I am content with what I have and thank the Almighty for it.

Where is your home in Rajasthan?

When my ancestors migrated from Didwana it was a part of Jodhpur state in Rajasthan.

Tell us a little about your family.

I am the grandson of the Late Shri Narsingh Das ji Bangur. Our forefathers were philanthropic. All their business and industrial activities were guided by the motto “earn, with which in turn you can serve others”. We have been a family of simple and humble people.

How often do you visit your hometown?

I visit my hometown once in two years.

How does it feel to be associated with the oldest polo club of the world?

The Calcutta Polo Club is a world heritage club established during 1861-62 by a group of British army men.

The rule book of modern polo was set up by this club. It hosts ‘Ezra Cup’, the first-ever instituted polo trophy of the world. I have grown up watching polo being played in the middle of the racecourse at the Pat Williamson Polo Grounds, Kolkata. I took up the role of the club’s president without batting an eyelid when the opportunity came knocking on my door around 2005.

I have not looked back since and have tried my best to nurture and add value to this priceless brand.

The Calcutta Polo Club (CPC) was set up in the early 1860s. Tell us how the CPC came to be?

The Calcutta Polo Club is the oldest polo club in the world. It all started when in 1858 two British soldiers Captain Robert Stewart and Major Gen Joe Sherer witnessed a game ‘Sagol Kangjei’ being played by locals of Manipur. Both officers were so captivated by the experience that they quickly introduced the game to their peers. Later, during 1861-62, they established the Calcutta Polo Club.

Above: The Bangur Polo Masters Cup, which was instituted by Bangur in 2006; Below: A polo match being played at the Calcutta Polo Club with the iconic Victoria Memorial in the background

You are given the credit of bringing back glory to the club. What did you do differently to achieve this?

The word ‘polo’ has fascinated me since my childhood. I have only tried to get more and more people equally excited about the sport.

How do you intend to keep the heritage of CPC alive and encourage youngsters to take up polo?

The club conducts a lot of activities at a subsidised rate for school and college students. We also organise talk shows in schools, where we encourage students to take up this sport. I believe one needs to start early. The response that we have been getting is huge. Not all these students will become polo players, but even if one does, we would know we made a difference.

location, with an arena polo ground and a stable hut [courtesy the Government of West Bengal]. The Calcutta Polo Club lounge, adjacent to the Maidan at Bangur BFL Estate on Chowringhee Road, is the best location in Kolkata. The iconic Pat Williamson Polo Grounds has been created, maintained and used for polo by the CPC for over a century and a half. It is the Mecca of Polo for the polo community across the world.

The Maidan is owned and controlled by the Indian Army and we need permission to carry out any development work at the club. This often slows down the process of development of polo in Kolkata. We are trying our best to resolve issues for good. We hope the Army chief intervenes and gives protection to this heritage brand, which has been acknowledged the world over as the oldest polo club.

How will the club celebrate its 155th anniversary next year?

We are working on the nitty-gritty of the upcoming celebration. We cannot share what our definite plans are, but yes it will be a grand celebration.

What are the tournaments that the club organises each year?

The main trophies include the Ezra Cup, Carmichael Cup, Stewart Cup, Darbhanga Cup and the Bangur Polo Masters Cup.

Tell us a little about the club in these present times. How many active players does the club have, and what are the facilities provided to them?

We have well groomed polo ponies, and a nice stabling facility in a very convenient

How would you rate the present day polo players from India?

In India, most players are average, but they enjoy playing the game.

However, a handful of them have turned professionals and now compete with the

A polo match in progress at the Calcutta Polo Club ground in Kolkata

best in the sport globally.

How much has the sport developed in recent years?

It has developed over the years, but we still need more polo centres and players in and from the eastern region of India. This will ensure that horses and players are able to travel to different destinations easily and play more frequently like they do in Delhi and Rajasthan. There, players and horses reach different venues within three to six hours, enjoy the game and return to their respective stations. It is difficult to participate in matches held far away when players have to travel for five days along with their horses, and then need three days to rest before a game.

Therefore, big polo matches are held only once a year in this part of India.

How do you plan to promote polo in India and attract young players?

As I said earlier, the Calcutta Polo Club is promoting the sport in various schools, since we believe these young stars are going to be the future ambassadors of the sport.

Do you play polo? If yes, how often?

I have played polo from my childhood but now I have opted out of competitive games. However, the passion for horses and polo is still very high. âœ˛

According to you which polo club in the world is doing really well?

Argentina leads the list. This sport is very popular in the US and the UK as well. Even China has emerged as a strong contender for international polo events with amazing facilities at the Nine Dragons Hill Polo Club.

Could the CPC implement ideas from these successful clubs?

The Calcutta Polo Club never really needed to. In fact, the world polo runs on the rule book created by the CPC, which means others are actually implementing our ideas.

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QUESTION & ANSWER

Above: The wall of mementos presented to Keshav Bangur by various polo associations; Below (L-R): Bangur with the Ezra Cup, the oldest polo trophy in the world; The home team lifts the Ezra Cup during the club’s 150th anniversary celebrations in 2011

All our shirts are individually hand-cut by skilled artisans, who meticulously balance the design and geometry of the fabrics to preserve the cloth’s integrity.

THE SARTORIAL

STITCH Noticing the absence of well-cut shirts of international standard in the Indian market, Sanjiv Shroff and his father Shanker Lal Shroff launched Camessi in 2006. Nine years later, the brand has become synonymous with bespoke shirts and trousers.

In a first person account for MARWAR, Sanjiv Shroff speaks about his belief that while clothes maketh the man, the roles are often reversed.

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FIRST PERSON

T

he idea of Camessi as a bespoke shirt brand perhaps began with the discerning eye of my father, Shanker Lal Shroff, of Spell Fashion Pvt Ltd. My father started out as a stockbroker in the fifties, but life changed for him very quickly after he identified the potential of jute exports from India to the United States.

Having first forayed into jute trading, he then turned to the textile business, and it is in this industry that my family has been for over 60 years. Textile trading inevitably sparked an interest in manufacturing and this led my father to set up yarn spinning mills in Rajasthan. These spinning mills form the core of our business today.

Our family has its roots in Fatehpur, in Shekhawati, Rajasthan, from where my grandfather moved to Kolkata in the early 1900s. The exact date is unknown. In fact, my father still lives in Kolkata, but I relocated Mumbai in the early 1980s.

Quality comes first As a young man, my father found that local tailors in India were not always able to meet his particular tastes and, therefore, ended up having most of his shirts fitted in Hong Kong and Italy. After having been so intimately involved in the textile business - for over six decades - my father was convinced that our expertise in textile manufacturing and our in-depth knowledge of the product would help us craft truly luxurious shirts in India.

My father and I launched Camessi in 2006, with the singular vision of crafting men’s

shirts of international quality. While India was renowned for its beautiful Indian clothing and silk fabrics, the ‘Made in India’ label was still not to be seen in the world of high quality luxury products in the western world. We realised that making a dent in such a market would be a herculean task, and to succeed, we would require persistence and dedication.

We built Camessi on the foundation of quality. The design and infrastructure of our factory, the training of our craftswomen, routine procurement of the best raw materials, the finished garments they were all the fruits of years of painstaking research and deliberation. Our journey began in 2006

Sanjiv Shroff of Camessi

Work in progress at Camessi factory in Rajasthan

with the setting up of a state of the art factory in Udaipur, Rajasthan. We imported latest single-needle sewing machines from Germany and then turned our attention to sourcing the finest raw materials from around the world.

Today, all our shirts are individually hand-cut by skilled artisans, who meticulously balance the design and geometry of the fabrics to preserve the cloth’s integrity. While our sewing capability of 23 stitches per inch makes them almost invisible, the narrow hemline (3 mm) and side French seams make the shirts look seamless. The mother-of-pearl buttons are individually shanked.

12-month journey to engineer the perfect trouser, and by late 2014, Camessi was proud to offer an exclusive bespoke service for handmade trousers.

Assiduously handcrafted buttonholes, manually pick-stitched seams and hand turned helms find their way into the products that undergo the most rigorous quality inspections. Our full bespoke service is offered in Mumbai, Delhi and Kolkata.

ed they will remain true to the ideals on which Camessi was founded an unrelenting focus on quality, craftsmanship and elegance - and take the brand to newer and brighter horizons in the future.

Taking the legacy forward My sons Rahul, 28, and Ameya, 25, have a keen eye for the market. I am convinc-

Empowering Women My father and I are very dedicated to the cause of women’s empowerment.

Our craftswomen come from neighbouring villages and usually have no prior sewing experience. Our goal is to provide these women with suitable employment, in a safe environment, and help them revive a lost skill. Today garment manufacturing is highly automated, and machines have taken human beings out of the equation, but nothing can replace a garment lovingly stitched by hand. Our recruits go through a rigorous eight-month training programme.

Bringing bespoke to clients Bespoke tailoring has been the soul of the sartorial experience for centuries.

Our kings and emperors believed in bespoke clothing. With Camessi, we wanted to present customers with the opportunity to experience bespoke clothing in their most authentic form.

We consult our clients to ensure the shirts reflect their personalities and requirements. Customers can choose from a range of over 1,500 fabrics and numerous collar and cuff designs. It is only after the client is satisfied with the trial shirt that the final product is tailored.

From shirts to trousers While Camessi was conceived as a shirt brand, our customers were so impressed by our bespoke services that we were inundated with requests for a complete menswear ensemble. This led us on a

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FIRST PERSON

Bespoke shirts from Camessi

A MAN FOR ALL

SEASONS Initiated in 1989, the Pittie Group has been successful in not only being a demand and supply intermediary, but also in creating value for customers through its diverse interests, which include real estate, media, entertainment, e-commerce, FMCG distribution, wellness and quick service restaurants. In an interview with MARWAR, Krishna Kumar Pittie, chairman of the group, talks about ‘learning as you grow’, his journey so far and his future plans.

Text * Pooja Mujumdar

Happiness drives success; it’s not the other way round. The rigours and challenges of entrepreneurship can wear out a person over time, but one needs to keep moving forward and work towards achieving happiness by smoothing out the business processes and systems, adopting client-attracting strategies, putting into place routines and building inner support. There is really nothing to hold one back from achieving one’s business dreams or living a life of happiness. Krishna Kumar Pittie has time and again reiterated these guidelines for success during moments of introspection, as he moved from one entrepreneurial venture to another.

Pittie, 54, is the chairman of the Mumbai-based Pittie Group, a conglomerate with diverse interests, including media, entertainment, e-commerce, fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG), wellness and quick service restaurants (QSR), apart from the core real estate business. “For me, doing business means keeping my spirits high in the midst of stress. It is said that a Marwari businessman experiences happiness several times during a day, especially during moments when an order comes in, when a consignment is delivered successfully, when a client makes a payment and when he sees his business growing on an overall basis,” he says with a smile.

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‘‘

As someone who consciously chose the paths he believed were right for him, Pittie, in 1982, decided to leave Rajkot and shift base to Mumbai with his family.

Business in the blood Born in 1961 in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, Pittie was one among three brothers and seven sisters. Though the family had its roots in Nagaur, a district in western Rajasthan, they lived in Jodhpur, where the family owned several businesses, including textiles, finance, retail and silver. His father, Ramdev Pittie, had a groundnut oil trading business in Rajkot, Gujarat. Recollecting, Krishna Kumar says, “Back then, it was the only Marwari-owned shop housed within the Rajkot Satta Bazaar [Rajkot Commodity Exchange].” For K K` Pittie (as he is widely known), his initiation into the world of business occurred when he joined the family business right after graduating with a BCom (Hons) degree from Jodhpur University. “It had been 20 years since my father had started his groundnut oil company [named Ramdev Pittie & Company] in Rajkot,” reminisces Pittie. “My uncle would supervise the day-to-day operations there, and when he separated, my father suggested that we should shut down the business. I was in college and didn’t agree with his opinion, particularly since the company was named after him. It was then that I thought ‘why not go to Rajkot and handle the business myself?’” His father agreed, and in 1980, a barely 19-year-old Pittie took the helm of the family concern in Rajkot.

For a patriarch, passing the controls of his business to the next generation can be tricky, but Pittie talks about how his father gave him the independence to take dayto-day decisions of the business. Pittie says, “From a business perspective, my father would always say: ‘Do what you think is best for the company. If there is any problem or you are in need of guidance, then you may approach me’.” “I lived in a business, so to say,” continues Pittie, reflecting the familial and social conditioning that Marwari families seem adept at when preparing future generations for business. He taught himself to do business in those days, even branching out by purchasing bauxite mines in Gujarat. What worked to his advantage was his speed in rectifying mistakes, and what Pittie refers to as ‘the beauty of youthfulness’. “You just want to do better than what you did yesterday and enjoy doing it”.

Striking out on his own In 1989, Pittie began marketing steel manufactured by SRS Steel. “I was the sole distributer in western India for the company, and at one point of time, was selling nearly 40,000 tonnes of steel per month for them,” he reveals. The same year, Pittie decided to separate from the family business and float his own company. And so the Pittie Group was launched, with a small office at South Bombay’s posh business district, Nariman Point. “I began with just four employees, and today the group has a workforce of 400, spread across 12 states of India,” he says.

Moving to Mumbai As someone who consciously chose the paths he believed were right for him, Pittie, in 1982, decided to leave Rajkot and shift base to Mumbai with his family. “The family’s silver retailing business, called Shri Vallabh Ramdev Pittie & Co. [named after his grandfather Shri Vallabh Pittie and his father] was in Mumbai, and I focused on it,” says Pittie. Two years later, he branched out as a major distributor of stainless steel for Jindal Steel, a relationship that ended a few years later when the company’s manufacturing facility in Mumbai stopped making stainless steel and switched to regular steel.

Below (L-R): Pittie Plaza, a shopping mall constructed by Victoria Enterprises in Jodhpur, Rajasthan; Vaibhav Chambers, a commercial property built by Victoria Enterprises at Bandra, Mumbai, that houses Pittie Group’s corporate office (on the 9th floor)

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The years 1989-1995 saw a boom in the property market in Mumbai, and Mr Pittie, with his ability to convert opportunities, wasted no time in taking his first steps by unveiling Victoria Enterprises, the real estate arm of the group, in 1989. He bought a plot at suburban Kandivali for his very first project - a 10 storeyed residential building with a total area of 50,000 sq-ft.

Asked about those days - considering that he had no prior experience in real estate - Pittie says that he’d just been open to taking risks and putting himself through every learning experience that came his way, or was thrust upon him by circumstances. Today, Victoria Enterprises has developed more than 15 residential buildings, hotels and commercial parks in Mumbai. Over the years, it has also ventured into the real estate market of Jodhpur.

Meeting the yoga guru An event that would profoundly influence the direction of Pittie’s life occurred in 2004, when he met Baba Ramdev, a spiritual guru best known for his mass yoga camps and for espousing India’s ancient herbal medicinal system, Ayurveda. “A family friend introduced me to Baba Ramdev. I was left impressed

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by his knowledge and work pertaining to yoga, and went to Haridwar with my wife to attend his seven-day yog shivir,” he says. He managed to convince the guru to visit Mumbai and conduct a shivir for the city’s residents. This was the very first yoga session conducted by Baba Ramdev in Mumbai, and the Pittie Group organised it singlehandedly at the Bandra Kurla Complex in Mumbai.

“Almost 40,000 people attended the morning session, and another 40,000 turned up in the evening,” Pittie says.

A tryst with media and entertainment A constant yearning to try new things and an itch to diversify his business which hitherto had stood him in good stead - compelled Pittie to purchase the Indian spiritual TV channel, Sanskar TV, in 2010. He says, “When Sanskar TV was put up for sale, Baba Ramdev told me, ‘Pittieji, you should buy it’. I agreed, and the Pittie Group acquired the channel in 2010.” Pittie’s strong sense of business kicked in, and today, Sanskar TV is a leading channel in India, wholly devoted to religion and spirituality. “It also helped that Baba Ramdev was there to offer guidance with regard to the content,” says Pittie. Sanskar Patrika, a monthly spiritual magazine in Hindi, was also launched, and Pittie’s wife, herself a major in Hindi, worked as its editor for a while.

It was the desire to broaden the visibility and spread the business risks that pushed the group to create a subsidiary, Victoria Entertainment Pvt Ltd. It was aimed at developing, producing, marketing and distributing Hindi, Marathi and Bhojpuri films, in addition to documentaries and mainstream features. Some of their more popular projects include Adla Badli, a Marathi film released in 2008, and Love Khichdi, a Hindi film released in 2009.

While the recent spurt in interest in spirituality in urban India has ensured that devotional channel surfing is not limited to Sunday mornings, the Pittie Group, with the aim of creating a ‘socio-spiritual’ platform that would attract much younger viewers, will be launching Shubh TV next year.

Pittie explains, “Instead of being just a platform for spiritual discourses, Shubh

Above: Poster of ‘Love Khichdi’, a Hindi romcom released by the Pittie Group in 2009 Left: Victoria Elegance, a residential-cumcommercial property built by Victoria Enterprises in Mumbai

As someone who consciously chose the paths he believed were right for him, Pittie, in 1982, decided to leave Rajkot and shift base to Mumbai with his family.

Tv will offer youth-friendly programmes that vividly portray India’s heritage and are more informative and entertaining,but within the realm of spirituality. For example the Bhagavad Gita can be presented to the youth in a way that helps them understand its relevance today.”

Venturing into the FMCG sector In 2011, the Pittie Group forayed into the FMCG market-by entering into a partnership with Patanjali Ayurved Limited (PAL)-to become the Mumbai distributor for Patanjali’s general trade business and a pan-India distributor for its modern trade segment. Patanjali, the brand, is present in almost all categories of personal care and food products. Its offerings are pitched as ‘swadeshi’ and adhering to Ayurvedic traditions.

Patanjali registered a turnover of about R1,200 crore in 2015, and in the current fiscal, according to Pittie, the brand is expected to touch a turnover of R2,000 crore. “Patanjali has become the fastest growing FMCG brand in India.

The products are sold in 400 stores and we plan to take it to 1,000 by 2016,” Pittie adds.

Funding startups Believing that very few people get the opportunity to create their own brand, and enthused by reports about the substantial number of “great ideas” being generated in India, Pittie, in 2014, decided to encourage and enable startups. He picked up a 50 per cent stake in Yogurtbay, a frozen yogurt brand in the QSR category, promoted by entrepreneur Robin Chatterjee. Pittie’s son, Aditya-who joined the business in 2005 and is now the CEO of the groupbecame a director of Yogurtbay. “What began in 2011 with a 90 sq-ft store at Bandra, Mumbai has now expanded to 10 stores across Mumbai, Pune, Hyderabad, Bhopal and Cochin. By 2016, we hope to add 15-20 more stores,” Pittie says. The funding also helped expand Yogurtbay’s newly-launched segment called Wafflebay. In July 2014, Mumbai-based Chargein, a startup which manufactures uniquely shaped smartphone power banks, secured its first round of funding from the group.

A constant yearning to try new things and an itch to diversify his business-which hitherto had stood him in good stead-compelled Pittie to purchase the Indian spiritual TV channel, Sanskar TV, in 2010

Going online Earlier this year, the Pittie Group unveiled shubhkart.com, an e-commerce portal for spiritual goods. Since the group owned Sanskar TV, Pittie says Shubhkart was a natural progression into the online retail space—a sector that has flourished and continues to expand every year. “Shubhkart offers more than a lakh certified spiritual products; it works on a zero-inventory marketplace model and has more than a hundred sellers on board,” says Pittie.

Outside the boardroom Krishna Kumar Pittie’s biggest decisions in life have all been driven by instinct. He is also a man for whom culture is

extremely important. “Building culture within the company is about treating employees as family. In my company, on every second Saturday, we organise a sports day where each and every employee is encouraged to participate in indoor and outdoor games,” he says.

So what does the future hold for him and the Pittie Group? “We are concentrating on extending the reach of Patanjali’s products and shubhkart.com, opening new outlets of Yogurtbay across India and preparing for the launch of Shubh TV in January next year,” signs off Pittie.

Top to bottom: Flavoured yogurts from Yogurtbay

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Forever thine Forever mine Weddings in India tend to be elaborate, long-drawn and feisty, but most pale in comparison to Marwari weddings, which are not just big and fat but fabulously so. When there is a wedding in aMarwari household, preparations start months ahead and the entire clan descends for the much-awaited occasion well in advance. The string of rituals and unbridled festivity that follow have to be seen to be believed. MARWAR deconstructs the many ceremonies, traditions and rituals that make up the fabled Marwari wedding.

Text * Joseph Rozario & Debarati Chakraborty

Marwari weddings are elaborate affairs marked by a number of customs and rituals, which may vary depending on circumstances or individual preferences.

Here are a few that are de rigueur.

The engagement or Sagaai marks the beginning of the long process, where the bride’s father and other male members of the family visit the groom’s family to seal the betrothal. This happens with the bride’s brother applying a tilak on the to-be groom’s forehead. Gifts are bestowed upon the groom, which include clothes and sweets.

Pre wedding rituals The Sagaai is followed by the Ganapati Sthapna and Grih Shanti ceremonies in both the bride and the groom’s houses, where an idol of Lord Ganesha is installed, formally marking the beginning of the wedding. The next important ceremony is the Pithi Dastoor or the

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more commonly known Haldi ceremony.

Here, turmeric and sandalwood paste is applied to both the bride and the groom in their respective houses, by their family members, to the accompaniment of auspicious songs sung by the women singers. The ceremony is observed with greater fervour in the bride’s house, where the bride, attired usually in orange, is taken to a gathering under a canopy, where women apply turmeric and sandalwood paste on her.

In the run-up to the wedding, Mehfils are held, which basically are evenings of entertainment in the bride’s house.

Chiefly a women’s affair, here again it’s the bride who enjoys centre stage as the main spectator to entertaining performances such as the ghoomar dance, performed by richly-clad womenfolk of the household.

The Mahira Dastoor ceremony that follows next in both the bride and

groom’s respective houses, sees their maternal uncles (together with their wives) ceremoniously arriving with presents for the entire family. The presents include jewellery and clothes.

An expensive affair, it is actually aimed at relieving the sister of the enormous expenses that a wedding entails. On the brother’s arrival, the sister extends a warm welcome to him (and his wife), who then distributes the gifts he has brought for the family.

IMAGE: REELS AND FRAMES

Fun and laughter In the groom’s house, in the meanwhile,the Janev ceremony sees him dressed up in saffron like an ascetic, faced with the choice to either run away from the chains of matrimony and become an ascetic or perform a havan and then wear a symbolic thread, which signifies that he has finally made up his mind to get married. After the havan, the groom makes a mock attempt to flee from the daunting prospect of getting married, whereupon it becomes the maternal uncle’s duty to bring him back and convince him to accept matrimony.

After the Janev ceremony, a few of the groom’s relatives visit the bride’s house with clothes and jewellery that she is required to wear for the wedding ceremony. This ceremony is called Palla Dastoor.

applies kohl in his eyes. The baraati follows in which the bedecked groom proceeds to the bride’s house riding a mare with rich trappings.

At the bride’s house, torans (garlands made of flowers, leaves, pearls and other ornamental items) are placed atop the entrance, which the groom has to hit with a neem stick before he can enter the house. This is done to ward off evil.

After this, the bride’s mother welcomes the groom, offers an aarti to him and

applies tilak on his forehead. The groom and the baraatis are now welcomed into the girl’s house.

Below: Relatives apply sandalwood and turmeric paste on the groom for the Haldi ceremony; A Marwari groom rides the mare to reach the bride’s house on the day of the wedding

IMAGES: JODI CLICKERS

Reaching the venue On the day of the wedding, the groom and his family proceed to the bride’s house in the Nikasi ceremony. Before leaving, members of the groom’s family take turns to get the groom attired. The groom’s jija (his sister’s husband) helps him tie the pagdi or headgear, after which a sehra of flowers or pearls is attached to the pagdi. To ward off evil, the groom’s bhabhi (brother’s wife)

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IMAGE: PRAKASH TILOKANI IMAGE: FOTOSHAADI

Exchanging vows Upon entering the bride’s house, the bride and the groom proceed to a stage to exchange garlands (made with flowers and often rupee notes strung together) in the Varmala ceremony.

Though Marwari weddings are family affairs, this ritual is very important for the couple because it signifies that the man and the woman have accepted each other in their lives. This is also a fun event in that the groom has to bow his head for the bride to garland him. It signifies his complete submission to his bride. No wonder the groom’s friends try and lift him so high that the girl has to try hard to reach for him.

In the Granthi Bandhan ritual that follows, the proverbial nuptial knot is tied, which involves tying one end of the groom’s sash to a corner of the bride’s chunni. The bandhan signifies a formal union of two bodies and minds to form a

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IMAGE: JODI CLICKERS

single entity.

The Paani Grahan comes next wherein the priest asks the bridegroom to take the bride’s right hand in his right hand. Water is poured on the bride’s hand to sanctify and bless the event, which signifies that the bridegroom has now accepted her as his wife. It implies that hereon he has to be with her in good times and bad. During months of courtship, the to-be-weds often promise to keep each other happy, but repeating the same promise now before everyone gives it a totally different meaning.

The Saat Pheras Next up is the Saat Pheras or circumambulation of the holy fire-the central and most important wedding rite.

According to some, three of the seven pheras happen outside the mandap, at the entrance-that is when the bride and groom come face to face and exchange

Clockwise from above: A Mehndi ceremony in progress (Mehndi is an integral part of the Marwari bride’s look and the occasion also gives her friends and relatives the chance to enjoy a day of song, dance and merriment) A bride is being blessed by the groom’s family during the Palla Dastoor ceremony; A Marwari bride arrives at the wedding venue in style, riding a palanquin

near the parting of her hair. This signifies that they are finally married.

While the bride sits on the right side of the groom in the preceding rituals, during Sindoor Daan she sits on his left side. This is symbolic since the heart is on the left side of the body. The woman sitting on the left side of her man signifies her being close to his heart.

After the Sindoor Daan, the bride and groom walk seven steps together to signify that from this day on they have resolved to walk no more as separate individuals but as one body and mind.

This signifies them being close. With every step the duo makes a promise or resolution as regards their journey ahead as a couple.

Bride is welcomed by new family In the Aanjhala Bharaai ritual that takes place just before the bride and bridegroom leave the mandap, the bride is welcomed to her new family by her father-in-law who places a bagful of money on her lap. This is symbolic of

Clockwise from bottom left: A father giving his daughter’s hand away in marriage during the Kanyadaan ritual; A newly married Marwari couple performing wedding rituals at Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur, Rajasthan; A Marwari couple performing the Granthi or Gath Bandhan ceremony (that involves tying one end of the groom’s sash to a corner of the bride’s chunni)

IMAGE: CANDIDSHUTTERS

varmalas (garlands)-and the remaining four pheras are performed on the mandap. The girl leads in two of the pheras, while in the other two, she follows the boy. With the groom in lead, it signifies he that will protect his wife for the rest of their lives, while the bride leading means she will face death before him.

The next ceremony is Ashwarnarohan, wherein the bride is asked to put her foot on a grinding stone. Just like with the pheras, this ritual means that the newly-weds will face every challenge with courage. But a point of difference here is that the bride’s family makes a contribution to their happiness: this ritual is where the brother of the bride puts puffed rice in her hand, which she passes to the groom’s hand and which is then offered to the sacred fire. This ritual is symbolic of a brother’s happiness that his sister is getting married to a suitable man. He wishes her sister and her husband prosperity. The groom then applies vermilion on the bride’s forehead

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her being not just accepted as a new member of the house by him, but also entrusted with new responsibilities, including managing the household and spending money judiciously. The bride has to distribute the money among her sisters-in-law and her husband, after which the couple gets up to touch the feet of the elders, who in turn bless them. Paharavani, a fun-filled ceremony, follows, in which the groom is taken aside by the womenfolk of the bride’s family and made to recite poems. He is made to sit on an asana and gifted clothes and money by the bride’s family.

after which the couple leave for his place. The bride bidding farewell to her paternal family or the Bidaai is always an emotional moment. The bride weeps since she is leaving the house she grew up in and entering an unknown world.

The happy communion almost always ends with the bride’s family.

The bride embarks upon her new journey with the conviction that there will be sunshine after rain and there will be laughter after pain.

Clockwise from bottom left: Beautiful floral arrangements at a lavish wedding, held at The Umrao, Elroy, New Delhi; The bride bids a tearful goodbye to her parents during the Bidaai ceremony; A bride steps into her new role at her new home with the Grihapravesha ceremony

Leaving the paternal house Before leaving her paternal home, the bride worships the threshold of her house. The couple is then escorted by family members to the car, which is waiting to take her to her new house.

Usually, a coconut is placed under the car’s wheel. The bride lifts her veil and the bridegroom then gifts a new piece of jewellery to his newly-wedded wife,

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IMAGE:S PRAKASH TILOKANI

IMAGE:S PRAKASH TILOKANI

IMAGE: CANDID CLICKERS

Tracking Trosseau Trends Above: ‘Bubbling over box clutch shaded red’ pattern from Suede

by Devina Juneja; ‘Mixed weave curved flap satchel’ with a pebble weave pattern from Suede by Devina Juneja Right: Gem beaded bracelet by Malika Jouel

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WEDDING SPECIAL

Gone are the days when the traditional Marwari bride was content with an exquisite lehnga and heirloom jewels. Today, her trousseau is a combination of reputable brands and unique creations by new designers. She buys what complements her style. MARWAR explores the trends with Rachit and Mayank Agarwal of Simaaya & Sasya, Madhu and Rajnandini Khaitan of Malika Jouel and Devina Kejriwal Juneja, the promoter of Suede by Devina Juneja.

Text * Ritusmita Biswas

A

Marwari bride wants an impeccable wedding, which includes perfect attires, jewelleries and accessories. She does not dress for the occasion but treats herself as the occasion, and in doing so, she rightfully demands options that would make her stand out and allow her to surpass bridal fashion trends.

Shopping for her bridal trousseau is not an easy task because on the one hand it is essential to purchase what is in vogue, while on the other, she needs to find something that suits her unique look and persona. So what is the modern Marwari bride exactly looking for when she goes shopping for her trousseau?

The eagerness to experiment Today’s bride is open to experimenting with new designers; she is not content with going to old stores that her rela-tives have been visiting. Rather, she is intent on finding new stores that stock exquisite and exclusive items.

That is precisely one of the reasons why multi-designer stores such as Sasya have grown in popularity. Sasya’s assortment of bridal ensembles bring under one roof the works of many designers-from the very best to budding talents. While a Sabyasachi look might be the most sought after, trying out creations by new designers can turn out to be a unique experience, simply because one of the secrets of inimitable style is to select attires seldom heard of.

Mayank and Rachit started Simaaya when they were in college, in 2003-04.

The brothers wanted to do something different. Instead of joining their traditional and well-established family business, Suruchi Sarees, they decided to bring fashion to Kolkata at a time when the city was still lagging behind in the fashion scene.

“Back then, people of Kolkata had never seen fashion ensembles like those sold in Simaaya, and we took the city by storm. Sasya followed when we realised the changing trends in bridal couture-how people needed not one designer ensemble but many to cater to multiple wedding functions. Sasya is a

IMAGES: SAYANTAN SARKAR

Reading the bride s mind She is looking forward to being the style icon, feels Rachit Agarwal of Simaaya and Sasya. Rachit says it is the ability to keep pace with latest trends that makes their stores the most coveted ones for trousseau shopping in Kolkata. “No stylish bride in the city can complete her trousseau shopping unless she drops in at our stores in Elgin Road and Wood Street,” he says.

Devina Kejriwal Juneja of Suede by Devina Juneja, however, feels that too much brand worship suffocates the modern bride. “While she cannot reject brands completely, she is keen on doing things in a different way,” Juneja says.

Madhu and Rajnandini Khaitan of Malika

Jouel feel “the bride of today is ready to experiment with various styles”.

A heavily embellished jacket crafted with fine brocade and zari work from Sasya

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Embellished clutch crafted with fine brocade and embroidery work from Sasya

Above: Rose gold link chain and pendant studded with brown and white diamonds from Malika Jouel

complete bridal designer store; you get everything from dresses to accessories here,” Mayank says.

From jewels to bags When it comes to bridal trousseau, experimentation has become an expansive term, which, if applied to style trends covers not only attires but also accessories such as bags and shoes and even jewelleries.

In the case of jewellery, the trend of investing in highly expensive sets has made way for utility pieces, convertible and multipurpose designs, which according to the new Marwari bride offer value for money.

Justifying this logical shift in preferences, Madhu, the proprietor of Malika Jouel, says, “Jewellery is not for safekeeping. It does not belong inside a locker; it should always be used to adorn an individual. So, while the bride would still don the heirloom piece on the D-day, for other occasions she would want something that is smart, contemporary and suits her taste.”

Above: ‘Leather handbag’ crafted with bubble design; ‘Symphony and Symmetry Wristlet’ crafted from lightly hand-shaded leather with rectangular fittings from Suede

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IMAGES: SAYANTAN SARKAR

Suede is a high-end brand curating handcrafted leather bags with intricate designs. Intended for the modern confident woman, Suede is about style that combines the offbeat, the trendy, the classic and the innovative.

A pair of embellished sandals from Sasya

of ‘unfollow popular trends’ because trends are fleeting, and ‘create your own style mantra’, which is not necessarily a brand-dominated one. “I have never been a stickler for high-end brands and have always dressed up in a way that suited me best. When I launched my brand, I wanted to create something that was elegant yet experimental and not just dictated by trends,” says Juneja.

What appeals to modern Marwari brides is versatility, be it clothing, jewellery or accessories. “You don’t want to own a trousseau that looks pretty only in the wedding album,” says Mayank, who owns the Simaaya store. “Buying just one expensive heavy lehnga does not make sense; you need more options for the wedding functions,” he says.

Rajnandini from Malika Jouel feels the same trend applies to jewelleries. “Do you still wear your great-great grandmother’s sita haar or all that antique gold? I would say no. Modern brides want to invest in pieces that are more wearable. A wedding is a once-in-alifetime affair. What happens to all the antique ornaments after that?”

Juneja says, “When it comes to bags, you can’t be content with only one exquisite buy. You need more and so going for newer brands that are classy yet cost effective is a good option.”

The bride today is different from earlier generations—she is not content with only trendy pieces from top designer labels or wearing only heirloom jewellery. She is educated, travelled and has a mind of her own.

Her bridal trousseau needs to reflect her sense of fashion, which means sticking to tradition yet embodying contemporary styles and being open to latest trends.

MADHU & RAJNANDINI KHAITAN Malika Jouel With a desire to create contemporary pieces but with a classic interpretation, Malika Jouel presents exquisite jewellery manufactured in Europe and India. The brand banks on romantic European aesthetics for motivation.

IMAGES: SAYANTAN SARKAR

The need for versatility It cannot be denied that these entrep-reneurs are changing the way a bridal trousseau is assembled. From ‘stick to the brands’, they are transgressing to concepts

DEVINA KEJRIWAL JUNEJA Suede BY DEVINA JUNEJA

RACHIT & MAYANK AGARWAL Simaaya and Sasya Simaaya is a fashion boutique, a pioneering retail ushering the trend of ‘designer wear made affordable’ in India. Sasya stocks apparels from top designers such as Tarun Tahiliani, J J Valaya, Shantanu and Nikhil, and Archana Kochhar.

IMAGES: SAYANTAN SARKAR

Her daughter-in-law and partner, Rajnandini, agrees. “Today, brides are decision makers. We are targeting that young crowd, which wants to shop not only a classic wedding piece but also an exclusive one for the cocktail party. They want a change from the traditional style and are ready to try something new as long as it is elegant and classy,” she says “Besides, weddings today are no longer simple events. There are multiple occasions, and the smart, working and globe-trotting bride needs jewellery that speaks of her unique style signature,” Rajnandini says.

Juneja, the brain behind Suede by Devina Juneja, says, “When you can geT three stunning bags worth one Michael Kors, would you not want to buy them?

Agreed you still want that one Gucci or Michael Kors, but a woman can never have enough bags and so brands such as mine are doing well. My designer pieces are classy and appeal to the taste of the modern woman.”

WOMEN IN BUSINESS NAMITA JAIN

Vibha Kejriwal

Managing Director, Kishco Limited

Proprietor, CORAL fashion concept store

Children thrive in the pursuit of their passions if gently encouraged by their families.

I feel blessed that my parents have always encouraged and motivated me. They made sure I had the confidence to pursue my dreams.

Having developed an interest in health and fitness-I was a competitive swimmer in school, and played badminton and squash-I went on to take certifications from international institutes. I have been in the fitness industry now for over 25 years. At Bombay Hospital, I structure training programmes for patients with special needs.

I have guided trainers through fitness-related disciplines. Apart from authoring 10 books on wellness, I have, as a columnist, written on nutrition and fitness.

I began taking active interest in the successful family business, Kishco Limited (established in 1950) around 10 years ago.

Aiming to take Kishco a notch higher, I have relaunched it as a premium brand through an informative website and initiated an international designer packaging. I recently restructured the Kishco store at Marine Drive, Mumbai, and I’m in the process of creating a new Kishco store at Kandivali.

My parents were a mix of traditional and contemporary; while they made sure we went to the best English-medium schools in Kolkata, they were traditional enough to get me and my sister married off at the age of 18.

I completed my graduation after marriage. My husband and his family let me pursue a career as a fashion designer. After the birth of my two children, my husband encouraged me to join his textile/fashion export business [Sreepriya Exports] in the product development and export management division. I accompanied him on business trips to Europe. I also took up the challenge of working with Belgian fashion designer Dries van Noten and continue to collaborate with him.

After working in my husband’s company for over 20 years, I wanted to start my own business. I realised Kolkata needed an altogether unique European fashion store and so in March this year began Coral, a fashion concept store at Ballygunge, Kolkata. Built out of the money I had saved over the years, Coral is my initiative, although my daughter has also helped me stay positive during this journey.

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Marwari women today are pushing boundaries, they are exploring new avenues, following their dreams, and making meaningful and valuable philanthropic contributions. It is imperative that families encourage their daughters and daughters-in-law in their pursuits and help them overcome barriers. MARWAR talks to women of the community to find out how they were supported by their families in discovering what they really enjoyed doing and in successfully pursuing their passions.

Compiled by * Pooja Mujumdar

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Niharika Jhunjhunwala

RadhEika Choudhary

Anjali Gupta

Founder, Sugarbox

Co-founder, SkinYoga

Director and Founder, Y Not Travel

My parents supported me and my siblings when it came to education and exploring career options. They would say, “It is your life. Do whatever you want; we will support you in your endeavours.” When I told them I wanted to pursue fashion designing, they were happy with my decision. When I decided against it and chose to pursue economics, they were okay with that too. I opted for an MSc in Economics and Management from the London School of Economics (LSE), and later did a traineeship programme in the Performance Management Division of the Cabinet Secretariat.

Marriage happened when I was 22, and it was my husband who pushed me to do something of my own. He said, “Just tell me what you need; I will provide you with the support system and we will make it happen.”

Launched in 2014, Sugarbox offers exclusive subscriptions for theme-based gift boxes full of goodies that have been handpicked by our team of stylists. My husband even helped me network with the right people, and other family members pitched in too. My father-in-law continues to help me, while my mother-in-law and mother lend me a hand in sourcing the goodies.

Parents can play an important role when it comes to a person’s life we studied in the best colleges. I, for one, studied fashion at the Central Saint Martin’s College of Arts in London, before working with iconic names in the world of fashion such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Burberry. The thing I appreciate the most about our parents is that they’ve continually pushed us forward and allowed us every freedom in terms of education or work.

They always encouraged us to pursue our dreams and supported us when my sisters and I launched our skincare brand SkinYoga, which takes a leaf from Ayurveda and uses raw ingredients.

Though our family supported us, our parents believed we should be independent as well.

They would say: “We will always be there for you. However, if you don’t achieve this on your own, you will always need somebody’s help along the way, and we don’t want that to happen.” They wanted us to take it as a challenge and tackle the business successfully, which we did. Today, they are proud of us and that’s what keeps us going.

My parents set strict rules for me and my siblings [a sister and a brother]. Though we were provided with the best of everything, my sister and I were not allowed to go overseas for studies.

I was 20 and studying at Lady Shri Ram College for Women, University of Delhi, when I got married. My mother-in-law encouraged me to complete my graduation, after which I had my two children. Years later, I felt I should do something meaningful with my life... start a business perhaps. My husband and in-laws told me to go ahead, but do something that wouldn’t require me to go out of the house to work. I love to travel and so thought, ‘why not earn money to fund my holidays?’ That’s how ‘Y Not Travel’ came about. We launched the company in 2004, with a seed capital of R10,000.

In those days, my mother-inlaw would get the kids ready for school and drop and pick them up. She encouraged me to study further at the Indian School of Business. I was 35 then, and today, thanks to her, I am running a company that is supporting 35 families.

MARWAR INDIA NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2015

MARWAR PERSPECTIVE

Jewellery par excellence

Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers, one of India’s leading luxury jewellery brands, has over the years perfectly amalgamated the traditional appeal and the contemporary allure of jewellery. Launched in 1915, Birdhichand excels in creating pieces with vibrant colours and themes.

According to creative director Yash Agarwal, “A jewellery design is like a delicious dish, which requires a perfect mix of various ingredients along with the skilled hands.”

No wonder then that the plethora of motifs is inspired by showers of hues, timeless art and the warmth of tradition that are deep rooted in the state of Rajasthan.

Birdhichand are pioneers when it comes to bringing the celebrated style of Kundan Minakari into the mainstream and transforming some simple pieces of jewellery into works of art.

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NEW COLLECTION Birdhichand’s latest collection ‘Adaa’ establishes a deep connection between the woman and the kind of jewellery she wears. It speaks volumes about how jewellery worn bstyle icons of yesteryears defined their style.

Birdhichand has chosen six iconic beauties whose innate sense of fashion is still remembered today.

Birdhichand has identified each icon’s signature style and has redefined it by experimenting with bolder colours, patterns and styles. These eminent icons are Maharani Gayatri Devi, Sita Devi (Maharani of Kapurthala), Umrao Jaan, Razia Sultan, Jodha Bai and Princess Niloufer.

The collection is an effervescent cocktail of unique, eccentric and unconventional jewelleries that are designed for women with different personalities and sense of style. For those who love

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to express, for those who keep it mysterious, for those who like it bold, and for the ones who rejoice in sheer simplicity, there now exists a perfectly crafted piece for everyone.

INSPIRATION BEHIND THE CRAFTSMANSHIP With every theme that Birdhichand creates, there is always an element of Indian heritage in it. Be it ‘Aranya’, which reflects the flora and fauna of India, or ‘Amer’ with jewellery inspired by Rajasthan’s architecture or the latest collection ‘Adaa’, which has been inspired by the royal women of India, every collection has in it the essence of the beautiful India. For a piece of jewellery to shine and win hearts, it must be crafted skillfully.

Another imperative - an aesthetic aspect - for a design to work is for it to rely on some form of inspiration. Birdhichand takes inspiration from

Indian culture, vibrant colours of nature, animals, architecture and history.

These inspirations are then moulded into beautiful designs and meticulously carved by highly skilled craftsmen. Instead of blindly following trends, Birdhichand creates trends with their designs. Their collections ‘Hunar’, ‘Noor’, ‘Adrishya’, ‘Aranya’, ‘Amér’ and ‘Aks’ - have been designed to suit the tastes of women of all ages and genres. For the modern bride Birdhichand’s USP is its innovative themes and designs that are a result of experimenting with design motifs achieved by judicious use of colored gemstones, old cut diamonds and different texturing of gold. With modern brides preferring to wear jewelleries that make them look royal yet chic, contemporary yet classic, Birdhichand offers the perfect fusion of old world charm and new year age style. Each piece of

the bridal collection is a perfect amal- gamation of the two worlds.

MAN WITH A DREAM A great designer is one who knows how to blend art with the right amount of science and come out with a maste rpiece. One such person who took the path of designing by a stroke of luck and turned out to be one of the leading designers in the genre of jewellery is Yash Agarwal, the creative director of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers.

Over time, with his utmost dedication and done wonders by coming infinite talents, Agarwal has up with more than a thousand designs patented in his name.

Stitched to

AWARDS GALORE Agarwal graduated from GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Carlsbad campus and there, he underwent formal training, in jewellery designing, manufacturing, color stone identification and diamond grading. During the course he was honored with the Best Jewellery Designer of the year award in 2004. he has also won the National Jewellery Award (as the most innovative jewellery of the year) and Best Jewellery Designer of the year award in 2012 and 2014.

Perfection

SR Fashion, a brand known for elegant and contemporary wedding wear, recently launched their latest brand, SM, in Juhu, Mumbai. The brand has myriad fashionable collections to suit every bride and bridegroom’s taste and preferences.

Established in 2008 by Deepak Mehta and managed by Seema Mehta, SR Fashion manufactures men’s sherwanis, Indowestern wear, ties, safas, dupattas, mojris, and more. SR Fashion’s collections have the sophisticated opulence of tradition and a contemporary touch, with the colour palettes ranging from pink to turmeric yellow, from vermillion red to sorbet orange.

Seema Mehta says, “SR Fashion is a powerhouse of design and is definitely going to soon become the onestop shop for everything fashionable and trendy. Much like SR Fashion’s philosophy, I personally believe in wearable designs.

I love to play with rich Indian fabrics and customers are in for a treat as here they will find contemporary couture with inspirations from our heritage and culture.”

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THE INDOMITABLE BARON OF THE FOURTH ESTATE A burning passion for all that he held dear, an intense sense of purpose, a firebrand patriot, an indefatigable warrior-these are traits that best characterise Ramnath Goenka, the architect of the Indian Express Group. This essay is a tribute to the unforgettable baron of the fourth estate, whose life was as much an enigma as a celebration of patriotism, freedom of speech, raw courage and a never-say-die spirit.

Text * Ritusmita Biswas Image courtsey * Ananya Goenka

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or a man who counted among the richest of his time and who also held the power to make or break governments, Ramnath Goenka was unassuming and downright simple.

Ever clad in his customary khadi kurta, dhoti and slippers, his life was a perplexing blend of parsimony, Gandhian frugality and total lack of ostentation on one hand, and occasions of unusual generosity and humaneness on the other. Quick tempered, he could be harsh, retributive and critical and also tender and caring. Having pursued lofty causes since his earliest days, here was a man with an unshakable sense of purpose who seemed more concerned about larger issues than things as mundane as family life or the luxuries that money buys. Like a born fighter, he began life taking on the high and mighty and continued crusading against corruption, fraud and misgovernance until old age and failing health got the better of him and laid him to rest on October 5, 1991, at the age of 87.

The birth of a revolutionary Ramnath Goenka was born to a Marwari-Baniya family, originally from Mandawa, Rajasthan, on April 3, 1904, in Darbhanga district, Bihar. When barely 15, he was sent to assist his maternal uncle Prahaladrai Dalmiya’s prosperous fabric merchandising business in Calcutta [Kolkata]. Later, he was sent to Sukhdevdoss Ramprasad Company [in Calcutta], the largest firm dealing in yarn; but more than business, it was politics that Ramnath Goenka had on his mind.

It was a time when the Indian nationalist movement was gathering steam and roused by Gandhiji’s rallying cry for Satyagraha, both young and old were joining the freedom movement in droves. One among them was Ramnath Goenka. Young and impressionable, his nationalistic fervour was intense.

He was to soon take part in Gandhiji’s rallies, which inevitably brought him in contact with the Mahatma. One of Gandhiji’s imperatives in those days was establishing a newspaper dedicated to the freedom movement. Given Ramnath Goenka’s revolutionary bent of mind,

combined with a hardcore business outlook, Gandhiji found an ideal candidate in Goenka for this. But having been imprisoned soon after by the British, life took a different turn for Goenka. After his release, his worried guardians sent him to Madras [now Chennai] to start a venture as a representative of the Sukhdevdoss Ramprasad Company. This was in 1922.

The making of a tycoon In Madras, Ramnath Goenka was appointed dubash (evaluator-cuminvestigator) of an English firm, wherein it became his job to assess the credibility of Indian trading firms for British suppliers. Given his sharp business and financial skills, he also traded in stocks and bullion, which helped him amass considerable wealth.

But deep within, the fire of nationalism continued to burn, especially his Gandhi-inspired dream of setting up a swadeshi newspaper. This led him to offer his services to the Hindi Prachar Sabha of Madras, which not only earned him national recognition but also brought him close to leading figures of the nationalist movement such as Jamnalal Bajaj, Lala Lajpat Rai, Madan Mohan Malaviya, C Rajagopalachari, Subhas Chandra Bose and Gandhiji.

Emboldened, he began taking part in public protests against the British. To win him over, the governor of Madras nominated him to the Madras Legislative Council as a representative of the business community in 1926, when Ramnath Goenka was 22 years old; but his sentiments clearly lay with the Opposition and in the Opposition he chose to sit.

On cues from Gandhiji, Ramnath Goenka in the meanwhile had purchased debentures of the ailing Free Press Journal of India (Madras) Ltd (which

owned The Indian Express and the Tamil daily Dinamani). When conditions deteriorated further for The Free Press Journal, its owner, Swaminathan Sadanand felt to sell off his stake in the company and with that The Indian Express came under Goenka’s control. The year was 1935.Thereon, he concentrated fully on The Indian Express and Dinamani, even to the point of personally delivering the papers to every village, township and newspaper agent where his papers had a readership. Apart from that, his involvement in writing and publishing the paper, together with his assistant A N Sivaraman, gave a head start to the fledgling daily that was to one day become India’s largest circulated English language newspaper, boasting a countrywide readership through its 14 editions, making Ramnath Goenka one of the most celebrated names of India’s fourth estate.

Fight for freedom Armed with the might of the pen now, he resumed his attacks on the British government with renewed vigour.

Meanwhile Gandhiji launched the Quit India Movement, which had an apprehensive British government issue a gag order on the press. This entailed pre-censorship of editorial content to suit British ends. In response, Gandhiji called for all nationalistic newspapers to close down in protest, prompting a

Facing page: Ramnath Goenka, founder of the Indian Express Group Left: Ramnath Goenka (centre) with Jamnalal Bajaj (left) and Lal Bahadur Shastri (right) Above: Ramnath Goenka with C Rajagopalachari

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Loathed and respected in equal measure by the high and mighty, among whom he lived and strode with pride and courage, Ramnath Goenka’s death evinced an outpouring of tribute by friends and foes alike

Above (left): Rare family photograph of Ramnath Goenka with family members: (Standing L-R) Son-in-law Ajay Khaitan, Son-in-law Shyam Sunder Sonthalia, Ramnath Goenka, son Bhagwan Das Goenka; (Seated L-R) Daughter Krishna Khaitan, wife Moongibai, daughter-in-law Saroj Goenka with Anil (on lap) and Aarti (on left), and daughter Radhadevi Sonthalia Above (right): Ramnath Goenka with Jayprakash Narayan

seething Ramnath Goenka to unleash a scathing attack on the British by publishing his famous ‘Heart Strings and Purse Strings’ article which decried British attempts to muzzle the press and stifle nationalist thought.

India gained independence in 1947.

Independence brought about new responsibilities for the Congress Party (whose members primarily constituted the leaders of the Freedom struggle).

Given his experience as a member of the Madras Legislative Council, Ramnath Goenka was chosen as a member to the Constituent Assembly of India, the august body entrusted with the responsibility of framing India’s Constitution.

It not only brought him closer to the top leaders and bureaucrats of the day but also gave him an in-depth knowledge of the country’s legal and constitutional framework, thereby arming him for the battles he was to later wage against the powers that be.

Business and politics On the business front, having taken over The Free Press Journal, Madras, Ramnath Goenka next set his sights on expansion through a series of takeovers and launches. In the political arena, he had until then been on good terms with both Jawaharlal Nehru (India’s first Prime Minister) and his daughter Indira Gandhi. However, trouble started brewing on Nehru’s demise in 1964, when Lal Bahadur Shastri took over as his successor, under whom Indira

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Gandhi was appointed Information and Broadcasting Minister. Soon there were murmurings of discontent among some members of the party over the appointment. Nevertheless, Ramnath Goenka continued to favour Indira Gandhi and even campaigned for her in the 1966 elections, which brought her to power. But barely three years after she assumed power, trouble reared its ugly head when she (Indira Gandhi) was accused of violating party discipline and expelled from the Congress Party.

Indira Gandhi was for following a populist and socialist agenda, while her opponents favoured a right-wing approach. These differences split the party into Indira Gandhi’s Congress (Requisition) or simply Congress (R), and the rival Indian National Congress (Organisation) or INC (O). Ramnath Goenka was dead against a division of the old Congress Party and even advised Indira Gandhi against it. Eventually the duo chose to disagree, and with it Ramnath Goenka fell out with Indira Gandhi.

Yet another political stalwart of the time, who had not taken the division kindly, holding Indira Gandhi’s alleged autocratic ways responsible for it, was Jayprakash Narayan. The duo joined hands in the aftermath of Indira Gandhi winning her second term in 1971, resolving to put an end to her despotism and also fighting poverty, unemployment and the growing frustration and disenchantment among the country’s youth. Jayprakash Narayan went around mobilising the nation’s youth and reaching out to intellectuals, making them aware of the worsening political condition of the country. At a meeting with intellectuals, a resolution was taken to keep them all apprised of developments through a weekly paper called Everyman’s that was to be print

Above (left): An ailing Ramnath Goenka celebrating his birthday at the hospital, with (L-R) Nusli Wadia and wife Maureen, daughter-in-law Ananya with son Vivek Goenka Above (right): Championing the cause of the freedom of the press. (L-R) Khushwant Singh, Cusrow Irani and Ramnath Goenka

and published by Ramnath Goenka.

Also, as opposed to most other media, The Indian Express chose to go anti-establishment, furthering the opposition’s fight to put an end to Indira Gandhi’s regime.

Soon there were youth agitations around the country. To quell the spreading unrest, the government resorted to force, which further vitiated the atmosphere and brought most of the Opposition parties together under Jayprakash Narayan. Feeling threatened by the ever-growing ranks of the Opposition, Indira Gandhi declared Emergency on June 26, 1975.

The Emergency and its aftermath The Emergency brought about intense oppression and repression. Inevitably, it brought Ramnath Goenka in the cross-hairs. What followed was intimidation and unabated harassment for almost two years that was enough to bring even the doughtiest to their knees.

But not Ramnath Goenka; he was made of sterner stuff.

The persecutions mostly came from the Ministry of Information and Broadcasting. There were repeated attempts to take over The Indian Express, there were threats of arrest against Geonka and his only son Bhagwan Das, under the dreaded Maintenance of Internal Security Act (MISA), there were charges of corporate malpractices, evasion of income-tax, attempts to dictate editorial policies, demands for removal of key editors,

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strict censorship of newspapers, non-patronisation of the papers (by secretly suspending release of government ads), discontinuation of power supply so as to impede normal functioning of the press, and more.

As and when expedient, Ramnath Goenka took judicial recourse to counter these actions. But at a point, when no amount of reasoning, litigation or third party mediation would work, he threatened to disclose the contents of certain letters written by Indira Gandhi and Feroze Gandhi in the good old days that were in his possession. He also issued a detailed letter to P N Dhar, secretary to the Prime Minister, writing about the Information Ministry’s systematic attempts to cripple the group. These measures, among others, produced the desired result and the persecutions stopped. But more harassment was to come.

As the Emergency progressed, there was growing eagerness among the populace for restoration of democracy.

Eventually, Mrs Gandhi felt compelled to lift the Emergency in March 1977.

Once the Emergency was withdrawn, Ramnath Goenka went on to claim his pound of flesh by publishing a series of exposes on the excesses committed

by Indira Gandhi and her son Sanjay Gandhi during the Emergency in The Indian Express. She was voted out of power in the 1977 elections. But the sparring resumed after she came back to power in 1980, and then there was some more of it when Rajiv Gandhi assumed power in 1984, after Mrs Gandhi’s assassination.

Above: Ramnath Goenka with grandson Anant Goenka

Ramnath Goenka published a series of exposes on the excesses committed by Indira Gandhi and Sanjay Gandhi in The Indian Express

Fight with the Ambanis Perhaps these very traits also explain his famous fights with his one-time friend Dhirubhai Ambani of Reliance Industries. Possibly India’s very first corporate war, it was to later take political overtones and snowball into a major crisis.

It so happened that both Bombay Dyeing and Reliance Industries were aspiring to foray into the promising polyester industry for growth, with Bombay Dyeng manufacturing de-mthyl terephthalate (DMT) and Reliance manufacturing purified terepthalic acid (PTA), both raw materials used in polyester. To secure the undue benefits for PTA, Reliance Industries was believed to have manipulated the system-given Dhirubhai Ambani’s close links with politicians and bureaucrats in Delhi-which supposedly helped him derail Bombay Dyeing. This led to an all-out war between the two business houses. Their common friend, Ramnath Goenka, tried time and again to reconcile them but in vain. Eventually, the war spilled on to the media with The Indian Express publishing a series of exposes against Reliance Industries. This task was assigned by Goenka to his close confidant and advisor, S Guru`murthy, a chartered accountant with the Express Group. Articles were also contributed

by Maneck Davar, the editor of Marwar, who then was an independent journalist with the Express Group. There were allegations of Reliance Industries employing unfair trade practices to reap profits and the government not doing enough to penalise them.

Family life Ramnath Goenka was married to Mungibai early in life, with whom he had three children: son Bhagwan Das Goenka (married Saroj Jain), daughters Krishna Khaitan (married to Ajay Khaitan) and Radhadevi Sonthalia (married to Shyam Sunder Sonthalia).

Sadly, Bhagwan Das Goenka, heir-to-be of the Express Group, died rather young, leaving a void with no male heir to take over the business. In his desperate search for a successor, Ramnath Goenka then adopted his daughter Krishna Khaitan’s son Vivek Khaitan. Thus, grandson, Vivek Khaitan, became his adoptive son, who subsequently assume

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the family surname and became Vivek Goenka. He currently holds the reins of a part of the former Indian Express Group (constituting the Bombay-based part of the business), together with his son Anant Goenka.

After Ramnath Goenka’s death in 1991, the Indian Express Group was divided Group, with seven north Indian editions of (The Indian Express), and Manoj Kumar Sonthalia, son of Radha Sonthalia, getting control of the Maduraibased part of the business (now called The New Indian Express, which holds the nine South Indian editions of the paper).

A born fighter All the trials and persecutions of life sure did leave Ramnath Goenka beleaguered and buckle he did, as anyone in his shoes would, but he never gave up the fight. This is because his life revolved around three great passions for which he was willing to go to any extent: the love for the nation and democratic values, the love for the Indian Express Group which he built from scratch and the love for upholding the freedom of the press. Consequently, more than financial considerations, the raison d’être of his papers was serving as mediums of communication that reflected the dictates of a patriotic and strongly principled man, who was willing to stake everything for what he believed was right.

Loathed and respected in equal measure by the high and mighty, among whom he lived and strode with pride and courage, Ramnath Goenka’s death evinced an outpouring of tribute by friends and foes alike. The most defining of these was perhaps by arch rival Pranab Mukherjee of Congress (I), now the President of India, who wrote: “In my eyes he was the one man who fought for the freedom of the press relentlessly in this country. I must admit we took positions of confrontation but he never bowed down to any political pressure or administrative pressure. He fought for the freedom of the country before Independence and after that he fought for the freedom of the press.”

One stop shop

for your fashion needs With outlets located in Mumbai’s burgeoning localities of Kemps Corner and Santacruz, Telon has come to hold its own with its impressive collections of designer wear for men. The brand brings together the latest in sewing technology and the best quality raw materials in its pursuit to deliver ethnic yet trendy designs and corporate staples that surpasses the highest international tailoring standards. For Telon, excellence in fashion is not just an act, but a habit, which goes a long way in ensuring that the brand is the perfect fashion

destination for the modern gentleman. Customers can choose from an extensive range of fabrics and designs. Combining modern fits with old-world quality, each creation is a labour of love - one that is a sheer joy to slip into and is characteristic of the brand’s passion to dress a cross-section of classy, discerning men with a keen sense of style. Telon is exclusivity at its best, offering custom cuts and contours that are crafted to become a second skin.

To know more about the brand, visit www.telonindia.com

sweet scented occasions

The big fat Marwari wedding is lavish with a host of pre-and-post wedding ceremonies stretching over a number of days. A great idea to give that magical romantic ambience to your big day is to imbue the festive atmosphere with a soft scent. To delight, each offering from Soulflower creates an aura with regards to everything from aromatising guest

invitations to bringing a whole new ‘sensory’ dimension to your wedding ceremonies whether the essence is one of lighthearted pleasure, timeless romance, enjoyment or gentle calmness is entirely up to you. Soulflower’s wedding range comprises aroma pouch flavours such as Rose, Sandalwood and Lavender, which can be placed in trays to welcome guests. Welcoming the baraatis on the red carpet with a shower of rose fragrance from Soulflower is a great way to unveil the occasion, while revving up the auspicious havan with its soothing scent of

lavender is a sure way to calm the bride and groom’s nerves. Soulflower’s range of floating, flower-shaped candles with pure essential oils can brighten up an elegant reception. The brand’s Feel Sexy Roll On or the Romance Aroma Massage Oil are also great for gifting your guests; their light formulations get absorbed quickly in your skin and leave behind a mild rosy aroma. Indeed, Soulflower’s offerings are evocative ingredients in attaining a feeling of bridal harmony, where the dress, flowers, wedding theme and fragrance work in beautiful synchronicity.

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PROMOTION

A GASTRONOMIC

RHAPSODY

The desire to innovate is pushing gourmet restaurants in India to offer exceptional fare by using excellent produce and weaving in interesting narratives to make dining an emotional and intellectual experience. MARWAR talks to the owners of three new restaurants in Mumbai who are pushing the envelope with innovative, theme-based fares and interiors.

Warner LeRoy, founder of Maxwell’s Plum in New York, a flamboyant restaurant and singles bar from the eighties, once said, “A restaurant is a fantasy - a kind of living fantasy in which diners are the most important members of the cast.” Eating out has evolved into a high-drama opportunity for diners where they can not only immerse themselves in good food and conversation but also enjoy a vibe that seems miles away from the humdrum of everyday life. It’s no wonder then that for the last five years, food connoisseurs in Mumbai have sat back and watched the culinary spread in the city’s restaurants evolve to sophistication. Great food apart, the interiors too have seen change to aptly represent both the authentic heritage of a region and the harmony of worldly experiences for global palates. We spoke to Marwari restaurateurs in Mumbai to decode their restaurants’ emphasis on creativity and innovation.

Cafe Nemo Anup Gandhi

“Our vision for Cafe Nemo was to introduce a mixed, progressive cuisine - we like to label it ‘agnostic’ with Asian influences,” Anup Gandhi says. After having launched Bonobo (a restobar at Bandra) and Jamjar Diner (at Versova), Gandhi and partners, Nevil and Sahil Timbadia, launched Cafe Nemo in August 2014. A dynamic eatery, it had enough quirkiness to keep all interests up and a food-and-drinks menu catering to the tastes of diners who, in Gandhi’s words, “are well-travelled now and have better awareness about global food standards and cuisines”.

Tucked away into the otherwise unexplored corners of Worli village, Cafe Nemo its name from the adventures

derives its name from the adventures of Captain Nemo aboard his submarine Nautilus in Jules Verne’s book Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Indeed, a spirit of adventure is what beckons you the moment you step into the cafe’s gallerylike whimsical space, housed in a 4,500 sq-ft bungalow. The interiors are done in shades of stark black and white, juxtaposed with bright yellow walls. Gandhi says, “While the idea was to keep

‘Fresh Mozz Provencal’ pizza from Cafe Nemo

The eclectic menu plays with different Asian flavours. Signature dishes include gyozas (crescent-shaped dumplings), baos (freshly steamed buns), Spicy Chicken Carnitas Pizza and Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème. Gandhi says, “We have tried to experiment with some of the popular Asian dishes, keeping the Indian palate in mind. For example, our signature Seoul Bowl [featuring a combination of jasmine rice, greens and herbs, Asian sauces and cooked meat] is our take on the original Bibimbap, which is Korean rice mixed with any number of ingredients.”

At Cafe Nemo, efforts have been made to incorporate as many healthy ingredients as possible into the menu Gandhi says, “In addition to using less butter and healthier alternatives such as tofu in our dishes, we source fresh, non-processed goat cheese all the way from Valsad, Gujarat.”

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“At Ankit’s house, the smell of delicious food was omnipresent. His mother’s family had come to Bombay [Mumbai] from Burma [Myanmar] decades ago, and the tantalising aroma of Khow Suey, that mouth-watering concoction of noodles, spicy curry and lots of toppings, was my favourite during

IMAGE: DHIMAN CHATTERJEE

Burma Burma Ankit Gupta and Chirag Chhajer

IMAGE: DHIMAN CHATTERJEE

the mood fun and playful, we also our progressive menu.” The first room has large windows at one end to let in bright sunlight, monochrome furniture and a wall that displays the brushes used in the fit-out with a bright yellow paint drip. In the second room, what grabs your attention is the chessboard-like flooring and an origami art installation on a wall panelled with small hooks from which hang either origami boats [created by a student from the Sir J J Institute of Applied Art], or tiny black pebbles, flowers or feathers. The bar area sports chalk art created by artists brought in from Gujarat. The last room is an acoustically-insulated space for gigs and private parties.

Clockwise from to: Fungi Timpano from Cafe Nemo; Ankit and Chirag, the ownwers of Burma Burma; The earthy interiors of Burma Burma; Kowni Mow, spicy noodles with Indian taste yet sour in taste.

IMAGE: DHIMAN CHATTERJEE IMAGE: DHIMAN CHATTERJEE

parties there,” says Chirag Chhajer.

Chhajer, 27, and Ankit Gupta, 28, are owners of Burma Burma, a 60-seat eatery at Fort, Mumbai, that’s been creating waves with its vegetarian develop the tea room-like concept of Burma Burma; and he, along with Chef Ansab Khan, travelled to Myanmar in 2012 to understand better the cuisine.

But why offer an all-vegetarian menu?

Gupta replies, “Fish sauce and shrimp paste, both essentials of Thai cuisine, are used in Burmese dishes. These ingredients have an overpowering

aroma; we wanted to avoid that.”

Burma Burma has a delectable spread, of which the Mandalay Laphet Thoke, a salad featuring fermented tea leaves specially imported from Myanmar, is most popular. It also imports ingredients such as kyauk kyaw (coconut jelly) and sunflower seeds from Myanmar. It is this attention to authenticity that has locals flocking to try the Samuza Hincho (samosa served in a tangy broth), Coconut Rice with Peanut Chutney and Durian Ice Cream. No alcohol is served here, but the restaurant is more than happy to introduce you to the 21 teas on offer.

“India is a tea-drinking nation,” says Gupta. “Moreover, due to our affiliations with the Global Vipassana Foundation, we wanted to provide a spiritual and holistic experience.”It takes on all

foods Burmese since May 2014.

The inconspicuous entrance of Burma Burma, with two dolls - similar to the Russian Matryoshka doll - mounted on either side, leads the diner through to a 1,600 sq-ft space. According to Gupta, “We commissioned interior designer Minnie Bhatt [who’s also done up Silver Beach Café and Nom Nom, Versova] to transform the interiors with a modernday Burma inspired look and feel, keeping it contemporary yet subtle and restricted to a minimalist look.”

Spanning a side of the seating area is a moulded wall designed and built by students of Sir J J Institute of Applied Art depicting Buddhist pagodas. A row of 18 wooden, brightly-painted prayer wheels form the centrepiece here.

Another wall has been inscribed with a traditional Burmese prayer. Authentic Burmese parasols in vibrant colours, sourced from Mandalay, Myanmar, descend from the ceiling. The parasols are handmade using bamboo and cotton, then hand-painted and lacquered so that they can stand up to sunshine and rain. And while sunshine and rain is not what you would find here, these brightly coloured pieces do seem like clouds floating above the tables.

Clockwise from top: Sago cooked with Burmese palm jaggery; Tea brewing apparatus at Burma Burma; Dining of Burma Burma.

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Boveda Yasho Sonthalia and Abhishek Goyal

When Yasho Sonthalia and Abhishek Goyal opened Bóveda in 2013, they wanted to provide guests an experience similar to what well-heeled clientele enjoy in pubs abroad. Sonthalia, who spent five years in Singapore, says, “The whole idea of opening our own restaurant came to us in Singapore; Abhishek and I were students there, and would often go out to party.

Each time we came to Mumbai for a vacation, we couldn’t find places with innovative cuisines, eclectic drinks or lounge music.” And so the duo set about to launch a chic restobar with dailythemed music nights and a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere.

What does ‘Bóveda’ mean? Goyal explains, “Bóveda is ‘vault’ in Spanish.

While planning the menu, our executive chef Saqib Duggal came up with interesting ideas of Spanish dishes. So we though ‘why not start a Spanish themed restobar’?” Sonthalia says, “We wanted the place to look like an old vault so that one feels secure and cut-off from the world.” The decor at the 2,500 sq-ft space at Andheri is minimalist, classic yet grungy, with artworks and installations. Wooden crate lamp shades with yellow oldschool bulbs hang in the room and the plush leather armchairs in the lounge area, together with the low lighting and the bare brick walls lend it an industrial, warehouse-style feel.

Apart from Spanish, there are Euro-

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pean and American dishes, along with cocktails, beers and wines and other spirits. Choose from Chicken Manchurian Pizza or classics such as Patatas Bravas, Vegetable Lasagna, Mushroom Risotto and Thai Curry. The bar’s ‘molecular’ concoctions the happy union of science and cocktails are the winners. Sonthalia says, “Molecular mixology is all about showmanship; what matters is how appealing the drink is and if you are serving it with attitude.”

Top left: ‘Summer Rocket Salad’ from Bóveda Top right: The brightly illuminated bar area at Bóveda; ‘Cottage Cheese Picata’ from Bóveda Left: The owners, Yash and Abhishek

Creating Timeless Classics There is no dearth of jewellers in Rajasthan, but if you have authentic kundan meena jewellery in mind, the one place you must inevitably visit is the Bhuramal Rajmal Surana (Mfrs) flagship store in Jaipur. Located in Jawahar Lal Nehru Road, the Suranas’ expertise in crafting exquisite kundan meena jewellery goes back eight generations to the times of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. A man of refined tastes, the Maharaja was said to have been so enamoured of the Suranas’ exquisite art of jewellery making that he invited them to relocate to Jaipur, in the early eighteenth century. Patronised thus by the royalty, including the Mughals, down the centuries, the Suranas today not only boast a 280-year legacy of crafting iconic jewellery, but also pioneering the kundan and meenakari art.

The royal patronage may be a thing of the past, but the Suranas continue to enthrall distinguished customers with fine jewellery even today. “The Suranas have been in jewellery trade since 1735,” says Pracheer Surana, talking about the brand’s journey down the centuries. “The brand Bhuramal Rajmal Surana (Mfrs), however, came into existence only after independece, when the

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PROMOTION

maharajas and royals reduced their patronage.

Hence, the Suranas started employing their expertise to craft fine jewellery for everyone, and not just the royalty.”

The kundan meena forms of jewellery basically use classic patterns which reflect the traditional patterns and motifs of Rajasthan and also draw on its majestic forts, palaces and architecture. Though the basics remain the same, with every passing year new trends continue to enrich the Suranas’ collections, given the ever-changing preferences and tastes of customers. This, of course, involves discussions with clients and repeated experimentation and trials with new concepts. “These constant interactions with clients of all age groups

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PROMOTION

The Suranas today not only boast a 280 year leagacy of grafting iconic jewellery, but also pioneering the kandan and meenakari art.

help us understand their needs, whereupon we try to incorporate their visions and concepts as much as we can,” explains Pracheer Surana.

The manufacturing process, however, integrates the expertise and timeless practices of five different kinds of craftsmen: the designer (chitera), the goldsmith (sunar), the engraver and the enameller (minakar), the gemsetter (jadiya) and finally the stringer (patua). “The contribution of these craftsmen is immeasurable

because the value of Mughal jewellery is determined as much by its delicate enamelling and design as by the intrinsic worth of the gemstones and gold used,” says Surana.

The Bhuramal Rajmal Surana (Mfrs)’s customers understandably come from all corners of the globe. As a brand, it enjoysrare privilege among connoisseurs and distinctive customers, and as craftsmen, they are regarded as creators of the finest meena, kundan and traditional Mughal jewellery.

ONLY AT Address: D-68 J.L.N Road, Near Police Memorial, Jaipur-302004 Tel: 0141-2570429/30/31 Email: jaipur@suranas.com Website: www.suranas.com

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AND THEY LIVED happily ever after!!

From exchanging wedding vows on serene beaches or in the middle of turquoise seas to illuminating monumental mansions that glimmer like a bejewelled adornment of the bride, Marwari weddings have undergone a sea change. Marwar brings you luxurious wedding destinations that help you transform your wedding into a truly fairy tale affair.

Text * Meera Acharekar

‘Marriage’ may be a single word, but it can cause the ultimate uproar in a family, setting everyone into a flurry of activity for days on end. Almost as if the entre domestic machinery has been cranked to full power, it doesn’t let any anyone rest until the bride has finally taken off with the groom. What’s more, in addition to maintaining the sanctimony and traditional flavour of every ritual, Indian weddings don’t seem complete these days without a touch of innovative thinking.

Ergo, Indian weddings are going places... literally!

Destination weddings have become the norm and their charismatic opulence is being sought by numerous couples, as if to infuse the ‘happily ever after’ element with nuptials that bear every trapping of

a grand, magical affair.

In sync with these changing preferences, leading names from the hospitality industry have gone the extra mile to recreate the aura, glitter and charm of resplendent venues, amidst settings truly befitting fairy tale weddings. We bring to you a few among the more exceptional ones.

NOVOTEL KOLKATA HOTEL & RESIDENCES Located in the City of Joy, Novotel Kolkata Hotel & Residences stands tall, welcoming its guests with its spacious reception hall and glass facade. The winner of Best Development of the Year 2015 by HIFI (Hotel Investment Forum India), Novotel is located in the heart of the city’s IT hub, where guests can access various eco parks, shopping

centres and theatres. The hotel has 347 guest rooms and suites, of which 48 are service apartments. A unique feature of the hotel are the La Femme rooms, designed specifically for single women. With its marvellous facade and lush green landscape set in layers overlooking the pool, Novotel Kolkata is undeniably a fabulous option for those who prefer a modern touch to their wedding venue.

For a grandiose wedding, a spacious banquet hall is a must, and this requirement has been taken care of by Novotel Kolkata with its colossal banquet space, which can accommodate as many as 1,000 guests. Further, it offers decorators the freedom to experiment and add elegance to every wedding. The hotel is also working on another sprawling hall,

Facing page: A pre-wedding ceremony organised at the Novotel Kolkata Hotel & Residences, featuring typically vibrant Indian colours and garlands of marigold that descend from the ceiling Left: A stunning floral arrangement created for an event at Novotel Kolkata

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which will open its doors to customers by next year, making it the perfect venue for mega weddings, with resplendent environs to match.

As for the pre-nuptials, the rooftop ‘Le Jardin’ is just right for the haldi and sangeet ceremonies. The rooftop banquet hall sprawls across 12,000 sq-ft, while the 5,400 sq-ft Eiffel Room is a perfect alternative for an indoor sangeet ceremony.

Novotel’s expert chefs promise to whip up dishes to suit every palate, including an array of Marwari specialities. In short, the hotel comes as a perfect choice if you want your guests to remember your family wedding long after the celebrations are over.

“Nowadays, weddings have become intimate affairs with the number of guests scaling down and a rise in the quality of the festivities. Whatever the requirement, our team of wedding planners will map out all the events leading up to marriage, in accordance with the guest’s vision and preferences,” assures Aparna Banerjee Paul, the marketing manager of Novotel Kolkata.

THE DELTIN, DAMAN The Deltin, Daman, has already proven itself a quintessential wedding destination. Its luxurious backdrop, created to reflect a blend of traditional and western culture, makes for an ostentatious environment. Located close

to both Mumbai and Surat, The Deltin provides a wedding venue easy to get to and has all the comforts and luxuries of a multi-cuisine five-star hotel, making it the ideal venue for Marwari, Gujarati and Sindhi weddings. “Our team of caterers offers a plethora of cuisines that suit the palate of our visitors. Be it Marwari, Gujarati or Chinese, they can put forth delectable delicacies from all over the world,” says Riddhi Sarkar, sales manager of The Deltin, Daman.

Spread across 10,000 sq-ft of landscaped gardens, the resort has 176 rooms and a huge recreational area.

One can either take a dip in its crystal clear pool, or get pampered in the spa before the revelries begin. There’s a

winding entrance that leads to the main hall of the hotel. On arrival, the baraat and guests can march into Grandice, the spacious banquet hall, that can accommodate 700 guests. Living up to its name, the 8,319 sq-ft facility spells grandeur and also happens to be one of the largest banquet halls in Daman. If an open-air mandap is what appeals to you, or if you have a lavish sangeet ceremony in mind, the pool area provides a picturesque backdrop resplendent with opulence.

As for the rest, you can leave it all to Deltin’s efficient staff and in-house experts, who, Sarkar assures “can suggest decorators and musicians in accordance with your needs”.

Above: The elegant reception area at The Deltin, Daman Left: The Emperor restaurant at The Deltin offers a delectable spread of pan-Asian cuisine

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SAMODE HOTELS Set against the majestic backdrop of the Aravalli Range, Samode Hotels is a perfect destination for Rajasthani weddings in royal style. The hotel’s staff welcome guests with garlands and an aarti thali.

Samode Hotels comprises four properties, of which Samode Palace and Samode Bagh at Jaipur serve as wedding destinations. Exclusive and discreet, these destinations are a feast to the senses, accentuated with contemporary luxury. Samode’s history and heritage are what make it a gorgeous destination for royal weddings. Set amidst fountains, waterways and pavilions, Samode Bagh is idyllic and unusual. Each room at Samode Palace is elegant, made of marble and draped in white linen. Each room has a Jacuzzi and stands out for its beautiful architecture. Samode Bagh, on the other hand, provides tent accommodation, complete with an outside seating area.

The spacious courtyards and gardens transform Samode Bagh and Palace into beautiful wedding venues. Resplendent with canopies, tables set under the shade of trees has nature take part in the wedding ritual. The mandap can be arranged in the courtyard. For the banquet, one can opt for the royal

Darbar Hall at Samode Palace and its picturesque terraces. The hall is suitable for an intimate wedding party for 250 guests, while the lush green Mughal gardens of Samode Bagh can house 1,000 guests.

What heightens the festivities is the natural bounty of the gardens and the beautiful embellishments offered by the decorators. Though a majority of guests prefer Rajasthani and north Indian delicacies, Samode’s culinary experts can provide international cuisine as well.

One can take a stroll in the nearby

village, or take a jeep ride through the sand dunes of Jaipur. The Samode Hotels truly makes every wedding an unforgettable experience! ✲

Above: The big Indian wedding can have all the pomp and gaiety it deserves at the Samode Palace in Jaipur Below: The beautifully adorned area with its open-air pavilion can host your nuptials with a traditional Indian flair

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FOR COUPLES ONLY From the palanquin to the plane - the way a bride travels has undergone a sea change over the years. Sweets served in Marwari weddings have also been given a fresh saccharine twist; they are now customised, edibly gold-plated and often come with the couple’s names engraved. MARWAR talks to three young entrepreneurs who are offering unique gifting items and conveyance options for the ongoing wedding and festive season.

Text * Debarati Chakraborty

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JetSetGo Launched in 2014, JetSetGo is aiming for the skies when it comes to changing luxury wedding experiences. Booking a plane and heading off to an exotic locale has never been easier. JetSetGo provides planes of all sizes to fly guests to and from the wedding venue.

“And yes, the party begins in the aircraft itself,” Kanika Tekriwal, co-founder and CEO, JetSetGo, says.

The interior of the plane, which include headrests, blankets and cushions, is customised. “It is the great Indian wedding plane after all. How can it not be done up in a grand scale?” smiles Tekriwal.

At a time when Marwari weddings are no longer simple family events, it is imperative that all the functions are exclusive affairs.

“Our wedding offerings begin way before the D-Day. For bachelor or bachelorette parties we provide jets for groups of 4-16. Some guests choose to begin the party in the sky, dance the night out in Goa and end the party on their way back,” Tekriwal says.

Jets are mostly booked for pre-wedding photo shoots and for flower showers during weddings. “We constantly roll out unique offerings based on the client’s taste or preference. Inspiration is drawn from the wedding theme and latest trends,” says the 26-yearold entrepreneur.

“The unique jet services are provided pan-India. We aim at delivering offerings in line with the personality of the couple, simply because it is their special day and we want to make it memorable for them and their guests.” Flight bookings can be made with the click of a button, after which JetSetGo’s wedding experience specialists get in touch with customers to understand their requirements better.

“Many young couples plan their vacations around Diwali. For such customers we have very exclusive luxury getaway offerings, customised to the tee. They consist of offbeat locations such as wildlife resorts, exotic wellness destinations and properties,” Tekriwal says.

“Throughout November we will also be offering complimentary meet-and-greet services for our customers travelling by

commercial airlines. We will drop them right in front of aircraft gates and whisk them away from aircraft gates to their cars. We also have surprise hampers waiting for our passengers in the flights,” she says.

But how does one determine if these gifts are useful for the guests? “We monitor our customer preferences, so these hampers are personalised and consist of things they love,” says Tekriwal with a smile.

Swarn Amrit Indian weddings and festivities are incomplete without gold and sweets; how would it be if one could combine the two?

Aishwarya Goel, co-founder and CEO, Swarn Amrit, probably had the same question in mind when she launched her company in December 2014.

With the help of authentic sweetmeat makers of Jaipur, Swarn Amrit creates exquisite delicacies wrapped in 24-carat pure edible gold. Goel suggests opting for ‘Swarn Mukhi’ for the wedding and festive season this year. “The sweets and chocolates are made in Jaipur, enrobed in pure 24-carat gold, after which they are placed in customised ethnic jewelled boxes,” says the 21-yearold entrepreneur.

Swarn Amrit has clients from all over India and a few from abroad as well. The packaging is done as per the requirements of customers; one can add photographs, gold engravings, message scrolls or golden keys. The company isn’t into retailing at all and believes in quality over quantity. “We only cater to the gifting requirements for high-end weddings, corporate events and social events. Everything is personalised and made-to-order,” Goel adds.

So how are orders placed? One needs to book an appointment online, after which representatives from Swarn Amrit meet the

Facing page (L-R): ‘Swarn Mithai Set’ from Swarn Amrit; Couples can opt for a ride on one of Accretion Aviation’s yachts to enjoy the sea and some tranquillity Above: The interior of one of JetSetGo’s planes; Inset: Kanika Tekriwal, Co-founder and CEO, JetSetGo

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customer. “We arrange special sampling sessions. Why should a person gift our sweetmeats to friends and relatives if they themselves have no idea of the quality? Only when the customer is happy with the product, do we place bulk orders with the makers in Jaipur,” Goel explains.

“For this Diwali and wedding season, Swarn Amrit has launched 24-carat edible gold bricks, a copyrightd concept.

Customers can customise the bars with their names monogrammed on it,” Goel says. A perfect sweet ending to the big fat Indian wedding this!

Accretion Aviation Thirty-year-old Rahul Muchhal believes the best spot to propose to the love of your life is away from the din of the bustling city. But, where can one find such an ocean of calm these days? “Why, the sea itself,” says Muchhal, owner of Accretion Aviation.

Muchhal launched Accretion Aviation three years ago, and there has been no

looking back. Be it chopper or yacht rides or long drives in vintage cars, the company offers special services for weddings and festive needs. “We offer services for proposals, engagements and weddings. Our customised yacht packages for couples are mainly for proposals. You can propose to your fiancée with cakes and flowers on a luxury romantic yacht ride, along with live music, flowers, balloons and a cake. We can arrange for everything,” Mucchal says.

While smaller yachts are used mainly by couples, the bigger vessels are used for pre-wedding celebrations, such as engagements and bachelor or bachelorette parties. “One can hire our helicopters for bringing the bride and groom

to the wedding venue, or to arrange for a flower shower during the var mala ceremony,” Muchhal says.

Accretion Aviation offers different types of yachts - motor, sail or part for different customers’ requirements.

These vessel can accommodate anything between 5 and 20 people. “We are based out of Mumbai but our services are provided all over India and reservations are managed through a centralised call centre. We go through a lot of detailing with the clients to customise their experience,” explains Muchhal.

A graduate from Pennsylvania State University, US, Muchhal aims at providing the best services along with a unique concept of luxury travelling to his Indian clientele. This festive season, one can book a yacht and watch the shoreline come alive with the dazzling light of fireworks. The friendly staff may also teach you how to manoeuvre the vessel if you so wish. ✲

Above (L-R): Rahul Muchhal, owner of Accretion Aviation; One of Accretion Aviation’s yachts Left: Swarn Amrit’s collection by Aishwarya Goel, co-founder and CEO, Swarn Amrit

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Surging towards

Success

Her love for art and forte for creativity propelled Jaipur-based Kamla Poddar into pursuing ventures in the sectors of education, wellness, lifestyle and costume jewellery. Founded in,1994 on the guiding parameters of ethics, foresight and hard work, the Kamla Poddar Group has since steadfastly remained true to these ideals. Not only has Poddar been able to do justice to her company’s varied interests, but she continues to remain true to her roots, even working towards women empowerment in Rajasthan.

WORKING TOWARDS PROVIDING BETTER EDUCATION An entrepreneur-cum-educationist par excellence, Poddar started her entrepreneurial journey in the garment manufacturing and exports sector in 1994, only to deviate later into the field of women empowerment. She set up the International Institute of Fashion Design (INIFD) in Jaipur in 1999 under the mantle of the Kamla Poddar Institutes (KPI). The institute aimed at offering unconventional, careeroriented, skill-based courses. While initially it offered fashion, textile and interior design courses, its portfolio widened to include information

technology, travel and hospitality, sales, management and retail. Today, KPI is one of the most reputable institutes in the country.

VENTURING INTO THE WELLNESS & LIFESTYLE SECTOR In 2013, the Kamla Poddar Group took its first steps into the wellness sector by joining hands with Diet Mantra. Diet Mantra is the first chain of professionally managed diet and wellness clinic where dietitians, under diet guru Namita Jain’s supervision, provide consultancy on an individual level. Besides weight management, the clinic offers special diets for hypertension, diabetics, thyroid and osteoporosis. Poddar sought to promote this clinic chain by setting up two centres in Jaipur and another in Kolkata. Poddar, with her astute business sense, unveiled her brand of lifestyle store, Ananti, at Jaipur and Kolkata.

she donned a new role as a jewellery designer, aspiring to take costume jewellery to the masses, though at affordable costs. “The inspiration behind my designs is ‘the expression of a common woman’. I respect every woman’s desire to wear beautiful, yet affordable jewellery,” Poddar says. Poddar’s creations are an unconventional yet artistic ensemble of precious and semi-precious stones that bear her distinct signature.

Idea lto go with evening, western or ethnic wear, or suitable for a day at work, each bejewelled creation adorns every woman like a dream.

Poddar’s signature pieces have been showcased at several lifestyle exhibitions. Her collections are available at the Ananti Lifestyle stores in Jaipur and Kolkata.

ON A CREATIVE PURSUIT One of Poddar’s cherished desires was to don the mantle of a creative artist and that dream saw fruition with the launch of the Jaipur Chapter of Pushpa Bitan, a body that aims to promote art and enrich lives through creative pursuits. In 2014,

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SPECIAL FEATURE

FLORAL

OPULENCE

Vikaas Gutgutia’s Soulebration, a hardback featuring a beautiful array of wedding decor concepts, will leave you spellbound.

Ferns n Petals, the event company, uses flowers to create elaborate sets of splendour and their professional expertise has been captured in this coffee-table book. The reader is left with no doubt that when it comes to wedding designs, FNP is among the very best in the country.

Text * Pearl D’Mello

Top: An event designed by ace couturier Tarun Tahiliani for UK-based businessman Nirmal Sethia Left: The front cover of ‘Soulebration’; and (inset) Vikaas Gutgutia, Founder & Managing Director, Ferns n Petals

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BOOK REVIEW

If you are planning a wedding or engagement and looking for some inspiration, get yourself a copy of Soulebration.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words and the captivating photographs in Soulebration let the work by FNP Weddings do all the talking. FNP Weddings is the wedding division of Ferns n Petals (FNP), the organised floral and gifting solutions brand.

The lavish structures, props and flowers, seating arrangements featured in this coffee table book show just how much attention to detail the company gives to each event. The main focus is the customised eclectic and sometimes ethereal wedding decor created after hours of craftsmanship using hundreds of flowers and props. The text isn’t too distracting and leafing through the book becomes a delight.

The decorations are one of a kind, with fresh floral arrangements that brim with elegance and creativity. These floral arrangements are crafted into creative centrepieces and decorations, from traditional bouquets to petite gift packages. For example, renowned event planner and floral couturier, Preston Bailey, presented his magnificent world famous floral dog at his first ever event in India. The imaginativeness &

boldness of this work of art gives you the impression that FNP will pull out all the stops to suit their client’s tastes.

Soulebration is authored by Vikaas Gutgutia, Founder & Managing Director, Ferns n Petals, and published by FNP Weddings. The title makes you ponder over the world of wedding design The cover features a flock of floral flamingoes created by FNP, for one of designer Sumant Jayakrishnan’s events.

Opulence and creativity never looked so good; you could almost say flowers wed luxury on that occasion.

Inserts with slokas and their meanings and different aspects of marriages and what they truly signify are sprinkled throughout the book. Beautiful explanations about the various ceremonies and rituals add to the main theme and offer bits of information while one browses through. One reads thus: “According to Hindu mythology, the lotus is symbolic of the soul; despite living in turbid waters it blooms to the point of enlightenment”.

A candid foreword by Gutgutia talks about how his business has been around for 20 years and how it grew to what it is today. The role of destiny and people in its success have been acknowledged and the analogy of the company central

theme, flowers, with the organic way in which they rose to the top is sincere.

Vibrant splashes of lights and colours with a hint of drama are woven together by threads of text that give you an insight into FNP’s floral world. The dark backgrounds highlight the images to their best effect. The colours of dusk blend beautifully with the pages, lending the images a certain je ne sais quoi.

Photographs from daytime events too look great against white backgrounds.

The company’s drive to fulfil a customer every wish has helped them be their best. Apart from weddings, FNP also brightens up birthday bashes and also corporate dinners with their exquisite designs.

A few more interesting titbits about rituals or love and romance could have upped the book’s interest levevl. But, the book takes your breath away all the same just on the basis of the work done

by FNP and can inspire those planning a wedding. ✲ Top right: A life-size elephant crafted from flowers including daisies and roses

by FNP Weddings Left: Floral elements designed by celebrity florist Rob Van Helden at Nirmal Sethia’s event conducted at the Leela Palace Udaipur

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We offer a glimpse of the world’s best and most recent that spell the last word in exclusivity, timelessness and understated elegance.

MARWAR

LUXURY

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Facing Page: Diamond bracelet crafted in 14-carat white gold from Vikas Chain & Jewellery (pg 124); ‘Swarn Kalash’ from Swarn Amrit (pg 114); Above: Versace Eros Pour Femme(pg110); Clutch with golden thead-embroidered floral designs from Sasya (pg 78); ‘Millenary’ collection watch reflecting the spirit of today’s independent woman from Audemars Piguet (pg 122); An elegant backdrop created for an event by FNP weddings, wherein fresh flowers were tucked on to a specially-crafted wire mesh and Chinese golden umbrellas with tassels were suspended from the ceiling (pg 116)

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COMPILED BY DEBARATI CHAKRABORTY

Home’n

HEARTH Décor & accessories that imbune character to your living spaces

Limón ‘The Tobias Wingback’ in paisley orange; created by integrating a clever interplay of texture and form and fusing modern sensibilities with indigenous accents; available at www.limon-design.com

Gulmoharlane.com ‘Istanbul Crystal Chandelier’ from the brand’s Diwali collection; the crystal prisms display an array of light and add drama to your living room; inspired from 19th-century Europe; available at www.gulmoharlane.com

VitrA Wash basins from the brand’s ‘Istanbul’ series, designed by Ross Lovegrove; collection inspired by integrating Istanbul’s culture and traditions along with VitrA’s aesthetics and advanced technology; available at the brand outlet in Mumbai.

EPISODE ‘Chandrama Ganesha’ in sterling silver; a perfect gift to shower blessings on young couples; available at Episode stores.

Greenlam Industries ‘Exotic timbers’ ranging from walnut to rosewood to mahogany to ebony from Decowood; choose from ‘Natural Veneer’, ‘Teak Veneer’ or ‘Engineered Veneer’ collections; available at Decowood stores.

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LUXURY

COMPILED BY JOSEPH ROZARIO

MAUI JIM ‘Peahi’ lightweight sunglasses for men with patented, colour-infused lens technology that wipes out glare and harmful UV rays; crafted with Grilamid (a light, durable polymer) and embedded with non-slip, silicone nose pads for extra comfort; available at optical outlets and multi brand outlets.

BRAND Appeal

Must-haves from some of the

world’s most sought after labels

HyperX ‘HyperX Cloud Core’ audio headset with detachable, noise-cancelling microphone; offers crystal clear sound and enhanced bass reproduction while gaming and recording; available in select niche retail and e-tail stores.

ALBERTO TORRESI ‘Formal Collection’ leather footwear for men with unique ‘Stress Less’ technology that offers soft cushioning and durable soles for comfort and stability of movement; classy, stylish and elegant; available at www.albertotorresi.com

CHARAGH DIN ‘CD Red Carpet Collection’ shirt from Charagh Din; available in Italian linen and blended fabrics with sharp cuts; ideal for party wear; shop online at www.cdshirts.com

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HAUTE

HOROLOGY Luxury timepieces

RADO ‘HyperChrome Diamonds’ watch crafted with a new chocolate brown high-tech ceramic that mirrors subtle changes in light from a light, sweet brown to a range of dark, rich chocolate hues; available at exclusive Rado stores.

from around the world

JAQUET DROZ ‘Petite Heure Minute Mosaic Elephant’ watch depicting an elephant moving across a paddy field, created by employing a combination of Asian eggshell mosaic art and lacquering; features a black onyx dial and red gold bezel; for availability, log on to www. jaquet-droz.com

ULYSSE NARDIN ‘Marine Diver’ watch with marine world inspired features, created in tribute to the Indian Ocean; comes with a rose gold and steel case, the caliber UN-26 movement, 300 m water resistance, unidirectional rotating bezel and luminescent hands and markers; for availability, log on to www.ulysse-nardin.com

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LUXURY

AUDEMARS PIGUET ‘Millenary’ collection watch reflecting the spirit of today’s independent woman features the Manufacture’s Calibre 5201 movement, a white gold case, diamond-set bezel and lugs, pink gold hands, off-centred mother-of-pearl small seconds counter and alligator strap; Audemars Piguet watches are available at Time Avenue, Mumbai, and Kapoor Watch Company, New Delhi.

OMEGA ‘Aqua Terra Seamaster’ watch created in anticipation of the to-be released James Bond film, Spectre; features a stainless steel case and bracelet, Omega Master Co-Axial calibre 8507 and the Bond family coat of arms on the seconds hand; available at Omega boutiques.

Redefining

haute joaillerie

Breguet’s latest masterpiece from its illustrious Reine de Naples line, the Reine de Naples 8939 Haute Joaillerie, takes bejewelled watches to a new high. With its scintillating array of baguette-cut diamonds that adorn the white gold case and a bracelet lavished with lustrous pink Akoya Tahiti pearls that redefine magnificence, the accent here clearly is luxury which the manufacturehas masterfully combined with aesthetics, femininity and grace.

What further heightens the luxury statement is an ingeniously crafted dial that flaunts a pave setting of baguette diamonds, alternating with inlaid mother-of-pearl hour markers.

To match its exceptional looks with outstanding functionality, the Reine de Naples 8939 houses a self-winding caliber 537/1 movement with indication of time on an off-centred, manually engine turned silvered gold dial that features a dazzling pear-cut diamond at 6 o’clock.

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Treasure Chest Our selection of bejewelled stunners, both classic and contemporary

MINAWALA ‘Afsana’ earrings crafted in 18-carot yellow gold; set with diamonds, rubies and perals; available at Minawala stores in Mumbai and Bengaluru. rare heritage by mehta emporium ‘Twin Bell’ bracelet crafted in 18-carat gold; features diamonds and roundshaped emeralds; available at the Rare Heritage

by Mehta Emporium showroom in Mumbai.

ENTICE ‘Art deco-inspired chandelier earrings in 18-carat white gold from the brand’s ‘Wedding Orchid’ collection; studded with pear, round and marquise shaped diamonds; available at the Entice boutique in Jaipur.

manubhai jewellers Exquisitely crafted cuff in 22-carat gold; embellished with emeralds, rubies, traditional nakshi and filigree work; available at Manubhai Jewellers showroom in Mumbai.

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LUXURY

COMPILED BY POOJA MAJUMDAR

YS18 Elegant earrings from the brand’s ‘Enchanting Rose’ collection; features natural fancy pinkand-white diamonds in an 18-carat rose gold setting; available at YS18 boutique in Indore.

MINAWALA ‘Afsana’ earrings crafted in 18-carot yellow gold; set with diamonds, rubies and perals; available at Minawala stores in Mumbai and Bengaluru.

VIKAS CHAIN & JEWELLERY Bracelet crafted in 14-carat white gold; embellished with an intense green enamel gemstone, diamonds and green-and-blue enamel detailing; available at company showroom in New Delhi.

SUNAR JEWELS Jhumki earrings crafted in 14-carat gold; encrusted with heart-shaped rubies and round brilliant-cut diamonds; available at the Sunar Jewels House in New Delhi.

NOTANDAS & SONS JEWELLERS Elegant earrings crafted in 18-carat rose and white gold; studded with emeralds and white-and-yellow diamonds; available at company showroom in Mumbai.

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