Likewise the refreshing Arugula, Parmesan, Preserved Lemon salad ($13), which featured crunchy slices of both black and watermelon radishes. I can’t wait to go back for the Chickpea Panisse ($8) with spicy harissa aioli, fried sticks of goodness made from a batter of chickpea flour and water, prepared much like polenta. Crispy on the outside, melting within. That dish is all that is right with the world. I am not exaggerating. Travelle The Langham 330 N. Wabash Ave. Chicago 312-923-7705 travellechicago.com
A Way with Chicken This kitchen has a way with chicken. The flaming Saganaki Wings ($13) are served with a tangy sauce composed of the above-mentioned harissa aioli and Greek yogurt. Whatever. It works. And why, you may ask, am I recommending a pedestrian dish like the Grilled Half Chicken ($22)? First off, the chicken is brined for 24 hours before cooking and then basted with piri-piri sauce and perfectly cooked, juicy and tender inside with a crispy skin. To further gild the lily, it’s served with Labneh potatoes (creamy mashed potatoes mixed with yogurt cheese). You WANT this chicken. Short-Rib Ravioli ($21) topped with Moroccan gremolata was another winner, the pasta made inhouse. Didn’t love the unbilled bagna cauda sauce on the 8-ounce. Hanger Steak Frites ($27), mostly because I wasn’t expecting the anchovies. We thought at first that the steak had been cooked on a fish grill. But it was whisked away and quickly replaced when we expressed distress. Fish entrees like the Grilled Salmon with Garlic Clam Fregola ($21) and the Red Snapper en Papillote ($26) didn’t really stand out, although nicely prepared. But if they have the Branzino for two ($55), grab it. The skin is lightly crisped with cornmeal and the fish is so moist and sweet; the accompanying salad of cucumbers and heirloom tomatoes dressed simply with lemon and olive oil was a lovely foil. Sweet Endings Desserts ($9) were incredibly flavorful. The Verrine of Dark Chocolate with Brownie Biscuit and Salted Caramel is a must order; likewise the Lime Panna Cotta with Sour Cherries and Ginger Tuile. This is a dazzling venue with superior service, a place where you could comfortably bring a business partner… or a romantic one.
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10/14/13 10:13 AM