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dish and broke into a huge smile when he saw how much we enjoyed it. “That’s my favorite dish on the menu,” he told us. Another do not miss: the glistening Sole Fish Fillets in Chili-Bean Sauce ($14.45). Amazing. And their Basil Chicken ($12.45) is my new favorite preparation of this dish. Do note that the portions are quite generous and meant to be passed around the table. Plan on bringing some leftovers home so you can try a number of dishes. Vegetables shine here. We loved both the Szechuan String Beans ($10.45), which is not a vegetarian preparation as is, and the Garlic Peapod Leaves
($5.45). Take advantage of the hot chili oil provided if you crave a little more bite. Each table also receives a complimentary dish of cold spicy cabbage. The Chef’s Recommendation corner of the menu is a good place to start when choosing entrees. The Mapo Tofu ($10.45) was a winner; tons of silky cubes of tofu swimming in a vinegary, thickened broth that showcases what the numbing Sichuan peppercorn can do. Lamb with Pure Cumin Powder ($15.45) actually featured a ton of cumin seeds, shaved and crispy lamb meat, bell peppers, onions and chilies. I was prepared to dislike it, but it was actually delicious. Lots of cumin, but it somehow didn’t overwhelm the dish. Our server stood over us anxiously as we tried the
($12.45), another dish you rarely see on the North Shore. You can find tofu 10 different ways, Scallion Pancakes, and tons of other veggie options. Leave room for the funky but tasty Rice Pudding ($5.50), unlike any rice pudding I’ve ever had. This is glutinous rice, seared in a pan, filled with red bean paste and dotted with dried fruit. It’s an interesting, multi-layered dish—a little sweet, a little smoky, and a lot intriguing. Service on our visits ranged from well-intentioned to excellent; again, it’s early times for Lao Sze Chuan. But if the constant infusion of Northwestern students and Evanstonians into this storefront is any indication, they’ll be around for a good long while.
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAO SZE CHUAN
The restaurant isn’t large (seating maybe 60 people), but it is cozy and fun. Bamboo is the theme; the walls feature huge portraits of pandas, and a green bamboo wall runs the back of the restaurant. Huge wire baskets encircle the light fixtures, and the curved, light wood tables are complemented with plush, padded moss-green chairs. There is a small bar on the south wall of the space; wine, beer and full bar are available. Now to the food. Recommended appetizers include the meaty Pork Pot Stickers (six for $5.45); a tangle of cool and tangy Cold Noodle Salad with Sesame Sauce ($5.95) and the soupy Mandarin-Style Dumplings
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5/28/14 10:06 AM