The Greatest Wildlife Show on Earth Lesley Stones The annual migration of almost two million wildebeest across the Serengeti is the most spectacular wildlife show on Earth. It’s an amazing sight, with animals filling the vast plains of Africa from horizon to horizon, following an instinctive, primal pattern in the Great Migration. Walking for months as they follow the rains in search of lush vegetation. Dodging carnivorous crocodiles that hungrily lay in wait as they surge across deadly rivers. Giving birth on the hoof, and chivvying the new-born calves to keep up as they traverse the savannah. Prides of lions and stealthy leopards trail in their wake, picking off the weakest for the ultimate fast-food takeaway. For tourists it’s not only an amazing spectacle, it’s also a bit of a gamble. If the rains come early, or late, the animals may be on the move and miles away from your carefully chosen safari lodge. If this is your once-in-a-lifetime trip, it’s a heck of a shame to miss it.
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A clever way of avoiding that risk is to book with Nasikia Camps, a Tanzanian company that operates five tented lodges in various locations, so you can ask to be placed in the midst of the action at any time of year. Four sites are permanent, while Nasikia Mobile Camp literally packs up twice a year and moves in tandem with the herds. Nasikia Camps is an offshoot of Maasai Wanderings, a tour operator that handles bookings and transport logistics, and developed its own accommodation to give guests a five-star experience. Between them these sister companies can organise a full safari with all the travel, guides and accommodation taken care of. The gorgeous tents have evolved a long way from traditional camping, with wooden floors, en suite bathrooms, comfy double beds, lounge areas and private decks overlooking the rolling plains. It’s luxurious yet unobtrusive, delivering an excellent experience with
a low environmental impact. The communal dining and lounge tents have settees facing the bush, and bars where you can hop on a stool and order a Gin & Tonic from the smiling barman. Absolute bliss! Kaskaz Mara Camp in the northern Serengeti is close to the Mara River where the wildebeest brave the perilous crossing into Kenya. We set off one morning on a game drive and stop at a favourite river crossing point. It’s eerily quiet now and the water is low. A few skulls on the rocks are all that remain of wildebeest that drowned or were dragged under by crocs during last year’s migration. Soon this golden savannah will be covered by close to two million wildebeest and assorted zebra and gazelles. Already the outliers are arriving, and a line of wildebeest plods past us in a neat row. Our guide drives us to a rocky
