Made Local Magazine Vol. 1 No. 1

Page 1

EAT LOCAL:

Vol. 1

DRINK LOCAL:

NANA MAE’S GROW LOCAL:

VIDS & VEG SHROOMS BUY BUZZ DICE BUILD GUILD

Nº. 1

CROP MOBSTER Farm-to-Cable


delicious

refreshing refreshing

alkalizing alkalizing naturally naturallyengergizing energizing boosts boosts metabolism metabolism

promotes promotes healthy healthy digestion digestion

replenishing

thirst quenching

Please bring our bottles back. Enjoy. Return. Repeat. We miss them. To take full ownership of our To take full ownership of our product and its packaging product its packaging from startand to finish, we need from start to finish, we need our bottles back! our bottles back! Play your vital part in the Play your vital of part in the great circle 窶話uch. great circle of 窶話uch. Enjoy. Return. Repeat. Enjoy. Recycle. Repeat.

TM



But the stories that comprise the backbone of the plan are fascinating. And, actually, so are the stats. People and economic vitality. That’s what Made Local Magazine is all about. A product of the Sonoma County GO LOCAL Cooperative, Made Local Magazine uses the Food Action Plan as a jumping-off point to connect you with the passions, challenges, and triumphs of those who produce, pack, and promote our food— from Petaluma to Bodega Bay to Cloverdale to Sonoma.

PHOTO: CC 3.0 ‘VILLIAN

PHOTO: CC 3.0 RAE ALLEN

PHOTOS: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

The Sonoma County Food System Alliance’s Food Action Plan isn’t a sexy document. It’s a compilation of facts and figures about food production, local resources, human need, consumer stats, and social justice.

But we also want to help revolutionize the way you view your plate and your grocery basket. That’s where stats come in handy. Sonoma County generates an astounding $2 billion a year in food sales from groceries and restaurants alone. Within the next decade, we aim to shift just 10% of that money, $200 million, to locally owned retailers and restaurateurs who are using locally grown products. Net on top of the $200 million shifted? A cool $100 million. Studies show that consumers want to choose local products and producers, but they don’t always know what or who that is. Part of our mission is to help you make those choices easier by illuminating the stories behind your food. While the goal of creating an extra $100 million for our economy might sound lofty, it’s shockingly simple. Sparking Sonoma County’s fiscal vitality doesn’t require us to buy more stuff. We just have to be more discriminating, looking local first. We’re poised to be a world leader in local food production. What other industry could grow $100 million without doing anything different than slightly changing what we’re already doing? This first issue shines a light on just the smallest slice of the personalities and efforts that support our food system spectrum. We can’t wait to bring you more.

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PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

Look for the next issue to hit the stands early next year. In the interim, please don’t hesitate to write to us with your feedback and give us the 411 on stories we should know about. The stories we should share. The stories that actually do make the Food Action Plan a darned sexy document.

Gretchen Giles EDI T OR Gretchen@madelocal.coop

Terry Garrett P UBL ISHER Terry@madelocal.coop

M A D E L O C A L . C O O P | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | vol. 1, issue i


PUBLISHER TERRY GARRETT JANEEN MURRAY info@madelocal.coop EDITOR GRETCHEN GILES gretchen@madelocal.coop DESIGN RANCH7 CREATIVE ranch7.com PHOTOGRAPHY MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY michaelbwoolsey.com THANKS JAKE BAYLESS

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DON’T PUT THAT IN YOUR MOUTH

The Food Action Plan’s provocative principles

LOCAVORTEX

The strange spinning sound of dice for dinner

EAT

CropMobster: In which we dare you not to think of the B-52’s “Rock Lobster” for days afterwards. (Actually, re-sourcing the surplus)

707.888.6105 info@madelocal.coop madelocal.coop

Do’s and Don’ts of the Forage: Mycological madness

DRINK

And You Thought Apples were Sweet: Nana Mae’s curious tale Aerial Winemaking: DRNK drones on and on

GROW

Ready for Their Closeups: Farm Shorts grow video stars

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The List: Have yourself a merry U-Cut Xmas, plus out-and-abouts

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Like Nectar to Marketers: The buzz over bees

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Those Crazy Young Folks: Evan Wiig, Wild Turkey, and the Farmer’s Guild

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Sonoma County GO LOCAL Cooperative 555 Fifth St., Suite 300N Santa Rosa, CA 95401

END BIT

1947 vs. 2013

PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

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Made Local Magazine is a free product of Sustaining Technologies, LLC, publisher for Sonoma County GO LOCAL Cooperative. 12,000 copies produced bimonthly. Limit one free copy per person. Copyright 2013, Sustaining Technologies, LLC. Reproduction of the content in whole or part of this magazine requires written permission by the publisher.


PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 JESSICA REEDER

Convened by the Sonoma County Food System Alliance Food Security and Access: Assure that residents are food-secure and have access to sufficient, affordable, healthful fresh food. Food and Agricultural Literacy: Assure that residents of all ages are food literate in that they have awareness of local and global implications of their food choices and have the skills and knowledge to acquire or grow, cook, and prepare healthy food.

PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 THOMAS WANHOFF

FOOD SYSTEM PRINCIPLES

Demand for Locally Produced Food: Increase the demand for healthful, locallyproduced food.

Local Distribution and Processing: Assure Sonoma County has a local distribution and processing system that effectively connects local producers, manufacturers, processors, vendors, and consumers. Economic Vitality: Assure that farming and food system work are economically viable and respected occupations.

PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 USDAgov

Local Markets and Production: Expand local markets and food production in order to provide consumers with nutritious foods produced and processed as close to home as possible, and create a resilient food system for all citizens of Sonoma County.

Environmental Impacts: Assure that local agriculture, food production, distribution, consumption, and disposal are part of a food system that regenerates nature. Article resources: aginnovations.org/alliances/sonoma/

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PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 USDAgov

Opportunities for Food Systems and Farm Workers: Assure meaningful livelihoods and opportunities for all food and farm workers.

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SPICED PUMPKIN TART with Orange-Graham Crust

inGRedientS FoR the CRuSt: • 9 full-size graham crackers (or 1¼ cup crumbs) • 1/4 cup sugar • 1/4 tsp. salt • 1/4 cup pecans • grated zest of 1 medium orange • 1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted

inGRedientS FoR the FiLLinG: • 2 cups canned pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling) • 3 large eggs, at room temperature • 1 cup packed brown sugar • 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream • 1/3 cup sour cream • 3 tbsp. dark rum • 2 tsp. pure Madagascar vanilla extract • 3 tsp. Chinese Five Spice • pinch of salt

noteS: Delicious with Pumpkin Pie Spice or Garam Masala in place of Chinese Five Spice. diReCtionS FoR CRuSt: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine all ingredients except butter in food processor and pulse into fine crumbs. Transfer mixture to small bowl and stir in melted butter until well combined. Press mixture into 9-inch tart or pie pan and bake for 5 to 6 min. until set and starting to brown. Remove from oven to cool. diReCtionS FoR FiLLinG: Mix everything together in large bowl. Pour into cooled tart crust, filling almost to crust edge. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 to 40 min. until set in the middle. Remove from oven and let cool completely before serving. SeRvinG SuGGeStionS: Serve with topped with whipped cream and sprinkled with toasted, chopped pecans. yieLdS: one 9-inch tart thanKS to: Savory Spice Shop Test Kitchen

Y L O C A L L

delicious food chel and Ra s Andy Owneraughter Amy with d

After the birth of our daughter Amy in 1987, we found there was little time to prepare the wholesome nutritious food we normally ate. Realizing there were others like us, we started Amy’s Kitchen to create delicious, nourishing foods for healthconscious people too busy to cook.

Amy’s food tastes so good because it’s cooked, never processed, and made with organic non-gmo ingredients, the way nature intended food to grow.

O W N E D

Downtown Santa RoSa • 317 D StReet Santa RoSa, Ca 95404 • (707) 284-1310 Monday-SatuRday: 10aM-6pM, Sunday: 11:30aM-5pM www.SavoRySpiCeShop.CoM/SantaRoSa

COmiNG SOON TO SONOmA! Sonoma maRket Place • 201 weSt naPa StReet SonoMa, Ca 95476 • (707) 284-1310 Monday-SatuRday: 10aM-6pM, Sunday: 11:30aM-5pM www.SavoRySpiCeShop.CoM/SonoMa

F R E S H

G R O U N D . H A N D

C R A F T E D

natural & organic

GMO free ingredients

www.amys.com

Join the conversation! Facebook.com/AmysGoOrganic Available in your hometown grocery frozen and soup aisles.


Chicken, green beans, and sweet potatoes. Santa Rosa sisters Liz and Sarah Downey were getting awfully tired of dinner. Chicken, green beans, and yams. It was healthy, it was balanced, it was deadly boring. Chicken, green beans, and sweet potatoes. . . . So they did what any adult siblings who love to cook and eat well would: They got out the dice and rolled for dinner. “We actually put Post-It Notes on them,” Liz clarifies with a laugh. One die had a protein Post-It, another a vegetable, another a starch, and so on. Lady Luck began to smile upon their endof-day meal. And she’s smiling again as the sisters take their homespun idea the extra step—by producing laser-cut wooden cubes for sale known as Foodie Dice. The Downeys launched a Kickstarter campaign for Foodie Dice that hit Kickstarter’s front page, made its newsletter, and basically just went nuts. Hoping to raise a modest $7,500, the Downeys instead have raised over $98,000 and have some 2,600 backers. That means that they also have a lot of dice to produce, package, and ship in time for Christmas.

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Locally made and laser-engraved, Foodie Dice come packaged in “upcycled” glass bottles that are thus saved from the recycle bin. There are five primary dice—cooking methods, meats, carbs, herbs, and such “bonus” foods as bacon—and four seasonal ones. Choose your seasonal die and then roll the rest to lay out the bones of your meal. Cook it as straightforwardly as chicken, greens, and sweet potatoes—or use your roll to create something that uses those ingredients in a new and surprising way. However you do it, the sisters hope that your choices are organic and sustainable. They know they’ll be in season. Like a meal plan itself, Foodie Dice have evolved. “Some of the things we started out with, like cheese, we ended up taking off,” Liz explains. “We wanted to have cheese on everything because cheese makes everything better, but we found out that’s not always true. That said, you’d think that with 186,000 combinations, we’d end up with stuff that wasn’t very tasty together, but it really hasn’t happened yet.” Sarah is the self-described “right brain” of the operation, having every one of the 186,000 food combinations the dice provide carefully logged in a spread sheet; Liz has harnessed the left brain, with some 13 years of food design experience.

“It takes a lot of faith,” Liz says of their decision to launch a product made from a fit of culinary boredom. “We questioned it up until we launched it. But we really wanted to do something together. It meshed our interests. For me, it combines food and design; for her, it was food and the challenge of putting it together and figuring out how to make it.” The two are a good team, and have been able to swiftly reschedule their day jobs to handle the massive interest their hobby has garnered. “We had all of these ideas for stretch goals when we started,” Liz says, “and that was assuming we hit $10,000 or $15,000. But because we’ve had so many orders, we’ve had to figure out how to scale up our production. “Now that we have that figured out, we’re going to add international shipping, add a vegetarian option, and then we’ll start adding some fun stuff that people have requested— like dice for dessert and fall foods. “That’s the great thing about having the Kickstarter audience,” she adds. “Now we know what people are looking for.” Article resources: foodiedice.com

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1280 N. McDowell, Petaluma, CA 94954 …Li ve local music & killer food ever y day weʻre open …Tons of beers not bot tled or available on any shelves …Ne w Fre akinʻ Firkin tapped ever y Thursday …Daily Bre wer y tour schedule listed at bot tom of our inter website

Beer speaks. People mumble.

Wed-Fri 2pm–9pm Sat & Sun 11:30am–8pm

www

www.LAGUNITAS.com


EAT LOCAL

“Give a man a fish and his hands will smell bad.” -GANDHI

WANT NOT CropMobster’s new-style electronic grange hall stems food waste

PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

Jess Flood and Nick Papadopoulos have gone farm to cable.

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tanding amid 50 glorious acres of fecund farmland near Bloomfield, Nick Papadopoulos rolls facts out of his mouth so quickly he could be reading them. But he’s not. He’s reciting from memory. As the lacinato and other kale fields warm in the early morning sun, Papadopoulos reports that so much water intended for food production is wasted each year that the runoff could hydrate every home on the planet for that year. That 30 percent of the food produced globally each year is wasted; in the United States, it’s 40 percent. That 20 percent of food produced on a farm never leaves it. That if food waste were a country, say, like China and the U.S., it would be just behind China and the U.S. in the amount of carbon emissions it produces annually. So naturally, the conversation turns to Facebook and refrigerators. Papadopoulos, 38, has cannily used social media platforms like Facebook to take his own small step at curbing the problems illustrated by the facts that he knows so well. And we all know how it feels to open the refrigerator’s vegetable drawer and discover that something has been squandered.

“I was standing in the cooler of our farm fridge on a Sunday night,” says Papadopoulos, who is the general manager of Bloomfield Farms, “and it finally just clicked in my brain that we were seeing boxes of produce come back from farmers’ markets unsold and we were seeing overharvest from the week before that we didn’t have a market for. This food typically would go to the chickens or the compost. We’d give some away to friends, but most of it was lost in terms of not getting to people who needed it or who wanted to eat this premium local food.” Necessity, meet invention: CropMobster.com was born. “With just a few experiments on our farm’s Facebook page and our blog, we very quickly realized OK, there is the possibility that we could create a community exchange that allowed other farms, grocers, caterers, and others to use this whenever they had excess food that should go to people,” Papadopoulos explains. Having launched on March 24, 2013, CropMobster had some 5,000 subscribers by early October and, Papadopoulos is proud to note, had already moved over 100,000 pounds of food—not including chickens, cows, eggs, horses, pigs, and goats.

The idea is simple: invite other producers to advertise their overstocked goods on the CropMobster.com platform and let them handle the transaction. If you as a producer make money, terrific, please leave a tip in CropMobster’s “tip jar.” If you break even, don’t worry about the tip. Get them next time. Those who sign up to receive CropMobster alerts soon discover their email has become a whole lot more fun as notices for 40 pounds of grass-fed lamb bones, 13 boxes of organic vegetables at 90 percent discount, and even a Swiss hoe with oscillating knives come through for sale. Other postings seek such items as 200 pounds of certified organic peppers, gleaning volunteers for last-harvest berry fields, or help to staff food events. Moreover, these opportunities go—and fast. There have been lots of great ideas, many of them involving social media or at least computers, that aim to connect providers with customers in Sonoma County, and most of them have failed. “A lot of times technologies emerge that seem promising,” Papadopoulos says sagely, “but they’ve got to be able to ‘speak farmer.’” CONTINUED ON PAGE 12

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 11

What does that mean? “It means factoring in the needs of agriculture and local farmers from the beginning,” he says. Teaching consumers who are used to going to the supermarket for their food to “speak farmer” is among Papadopoulos’ passions and CropMobster’s lessons. Interacting with CropMobster generally requires the buyer to visit the selling farm to pick up the purchase. Once there, they’ll see where the food is grown and meet the people growing it. They tend to get hooked on the experience. Papadopoulos’ Bloomfield Farms hosts a U-Pick brunch during harvest where families can come to pick their own produce and enjoy a pay-what-you-will meal. That’s just one of the innovations that Papadopoulos and his wife, Jess Flood, have incorporated since they returned to Flood’s family farm almost two years ago. Flood is an event designer by trade; Papadopoulos is just preternaturally ready for this gig. “I started out working in communities facilitating dialogues around public policy, natural resources, agriculture, and water issues as a consultant who would 12

PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

We need more innovators to start by solving problems. And if you can solve problems, you create value—true value.

work with groups to tackle critical local and regional issues,” he says. “I developed that into a practice around business and project management, so I began working in the private sector for companies and brands to grow teams and accomplish significant and large-scale initiatives and then, in between, I’ve always been a serial entrepreneur.” And of course he’s worked in wine. Essentially, Papadopoulos has taken his peripatetic policywonk background, coupled it with his innate sense for great social media, partnered it with professionals who “speak Google” like Gary and Joanna Cedar of Press Tree, and turned the whole thing into a new-style electronic grange hall that brings farmers and buyers together. The team has also launched FoodWasteNews.com, an aggregate site devoted to education on, well, the name says it all. Ever restless, Papadopoulos had just spent a day in Sacramento meeting with the California Department of Food and Agriculture as well as the mayor of Elk Grove, population 200,000. Suffice it to say that people are interested in the CropMobster model. Will it be monetized?

“This whole idea of monetization just drives me nuts,” Papadopoulos says heatedly. “Of course it’s important for any operation or business or venture to be viable and make money or at least break even, but when that’s the first question people ask, that just drives me nuts.” He shakes his head. “We need more innovators to start by solving problems. And if you can solve problems, you create value—true value. And if you create true value, there are aspects of that where people will have no problem chipping in to your continued operation. So yeah, we have a plan to keep our operation viable, and that’s first and foremost by being able to further our technology and grow a team. “Right now, none of us are making any money,” Papadopoulos says unconcernedly. “We’d like to earn a humble commission down the road, but right now—we’re just working for tips.”

Article resources: cropmobster.com foodwastenews.com bloomfieldfarmsorganics.com

M A D E L O C A L . C O O P | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | vol. 1, issue i



FRESH FISH, MEAT & POULTRY • LOCAL ORGANIC PRODUCE • GREAT WINES AWARD-WINNING DELI • FRESH SUSHI • LOCAL CHEESE AND MUCH MORE 550 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol • 823-9735

1465 Town & Country Dr., Santa Rosa • 546-3663


SHORT TAKE

Not with apples or prunes or grapes—this fruit is the mushroom, that rain-born annual miracle that appears, seemingly overnight, from underneath a piney carpet. According to amateur mycologist and ardent foodie Charmoon Richardson, Sonoma County is lucky enough to have some of the best mushroom fields in the world. “If you travel to Alaska, Colorado, Mexico, or Italy for mushroom hunting, you discover that Salt Point is more prolific, has a wider variety of species, and has a longer season than anywhere else,” Richardson says. “The season lasts months longer and there’s this whole succession of mushrooms from the beginning of the rainy season through March or April. It is really a special place.” It’s also the only legal state park in the area for mushroom foraging, with a five-pound per-person day limit. Richardson, 62, grew up in Marin County and remembers being just five when he discovered his first fungus growing from a tree. “Once I learned it was a mushroom,” he says, “it opened a door in my mind.” In his 20s, he gave himself the personal goal of learning everything he could about mycelium, particularly the elusive morel, a succulent fungi highly sought after by chefs. He ate his first wild mushroom at famed food writer M.F.K. Fisher’s urging, trained with mycological master David Arora, and immersed himself further with naturalist Jesse Longacre. The proprietor of Wild About Mushrooms, based in Forestville, Richardson is newly quadriplegic but stays active in the Sonoma County Mycological Association, plans monthly foraging forays, and preps the annual Mushroom Camp held each January. When asked about his favorite morel preparation, Richardson’s voice strengthens with pleasure. “They’ve got to be big fat ones,” he chuckles. “You stuff them with a mixture of crab meat, breadcrumbs, and Gruyère cheese, and you baste them in garlic butter and grill them over good mountain wood, no charcoal. That’s the best. They’re done when they’re tender. You can tell when they get a little brown and crispy on the outside.”

Does he travel with fresh crabmeat for this feast? You bet he does. As foraging for wild food has become more popular, the health of wild foods is put increasingly at risk. Richardson is particularly disappointed by the amount of trash he has found in the woods. And perhaps surprisingly, he isn’t too worried about eating poisonous mushrooms by mistake. “There are very few very toxic mushrooms,” he says. “There are 3,0004,000 species of mushrooms just in California alone. Out of all those thousands, maybe a couple hundred are edible, 40 to 60 are really good, and all the rest are in a big grey area where they’re tough and leathery or slimy and disgusting or bitter or sour or acrid. “They’re not going to kill you,” he continues, “they might make you sick to your stomach, but there’s lots of reasons why you would not want to eat a wild mushroom other than the fact that it’s deadly poisonous. Maybe 15 are deadly poisonous, but most of them you would not be interested in picking for food because they’re too small.” Richardson cautions that knowing how to properly pick a mushroom ensures that the plant will fruit again. “Mushrooms should be gently twisted and pulled up,” he says. “That sends a signal to the mycelium that, ‘our fruiting body is gone, we’d better make another one.’” It’s also important to re-cover the forest carpet where you’ve picked to protect the plant underneath. “Otherwise, you’re inviting an opportunity for the mycelium to dry out,” he says. Richardson praises Paul Stamets as “a visionary” and accedes that mushrooms may have the power to save humankind. But mostly what the man likes to do is to eat the things. “My main focus is gourmet culinary mushrooms,” Richardson says. “I’m also very interested in, and used to be much more involved in, teaching how to cook mushrooms, how to cultivate mushrooms— all of these aspects of the fascination and reward that come with unraveling the mysteries. I don’t know if I can quantify that with words.” He rests for a moment. “That’s part of the reason that people love mushrooms. There’s this intrinsic sense of accomplishment.”

vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 PONTMAN

W

hile the woods of Salt Point State Park just south of Gualala appear to be sleeping each winter, they are in fact rustling, popping, and spreading with a carpet of fruits.

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Article resources: wildaboutmushrooms.net somamushrooms.org 15


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SHORT TAKE

S

ure, Sonoma County might experience some food aridity, but an actual food desert is fortunately difficult to find here, particularly since the Target on Santa Rosa Avenue began selling groceries to the underserved residents of the southeast part of town. But food deserts, generally defined as areas without access to healthy, affordable food, do exist here. Think of our outlying areas—Jenner, Bodega, and Bloomfield, for example. While they may be gorgeous outposts of rural living, they boast nothing remotely like a grocery store, and residents can regularly find themselves driving for up to 30 miles to get fresh foods. Enter the small tornado of energy also known as Susan Butler. Sometime between now and April 2014, Butler will have succeeded—and there’s really no doubt about her success— in establishing the first Locastore, a 120-square-foot off-the-grid building that will sell fresh, local foods only during daylight hours. Call it the new corner store.

The Locastore aims to be your (tiny) new corner market

This is Butler’s second time around in Sonoma County. The first was in 1971, when she arrived starry-eyed onto Bill Wheeler’s Occidental commune and became the first woman to build a house there. She returned here in 2007, having been a contractor specializing in restoring historic houses in Washington, D.C., for 10 years. The lead in the old houses was like to kill her. She recuperated in Idaho, got healthy, and headed back out all the way west.

PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 LA CITTA VITA

Butler got the idea for the Locastore when she was trying to teach an 11-year-old girl how to make money. “I have a tremendous green thumb,” Butler says, “and I’d been growing vegetables instead of flowers. I used to grow flowers because vegetables require that you harvest them and cook them and preserve them and eat them.” A lot of work, admittedly. Work that goes all soft and slimy if left undone.

Article resources: locastore.net 16

Butler took her harvest of perishables and her young friend down to Hardcore Espresso in Sebastopol, asking the owner if they could sell her produce to customers on the spot. An agreement was struck and the two were soon making between $30-$40 an hour. And then the 11-year-old got bored.

Butler, however, was smitten. She inquired about the empty lot across the street, was given permission to use it, and soon began drawing up plans to build a “tiny” house that could be moved if needed— and certainly could be replicated. The idea behind the Locastore is that it will be completely stocked with such local, prewashed, “non-hazardous” farm goods as fresh eggs and flowers, bread and mushrooms, herbs and fruit, and packaged items made solely by local vendors who source area materials. Currently open once a month for special sales, the Locastore will be open Dec. 1-25 with holiday-themed non-food items made in the North Bay while Butler awaits the end of her rather byzantine permitting process. Once open, Butler plans to purchase farm market goods that go unsold and has begun to facilitate relationships with area growers for their overstock. “God’s chosen place in all the world,” as Luther Burbank once famously called our area, is often awash in way too many fresh foods than can be ably placed into hungry bellies. Locastore aims to help end that. It also boasts an ambitious business plan. Once Butler gets her first store launched at the corner of Bloomfield Road and Highway 116, she plans for 10 Locastores total to populate Western Sonoma County, each weighted with the goal of producing six new jobs. Butler’s Locastore website also has information on how to register your own private garden with the county Ag Commissioner (she did it for herself this summer and reports that it took 10 minutes and cost nothing). “We want to sell products from those types of gardens,” Butler says. “Part of the idea is to create a more resilient community with home jobs that have actual income. “It’s kind of an emergency preparedness goal, too,” she adds. “This is a local food distribution system fallback if gas goes to $10 a gallon. People can get to the Locastore by walking or biking. “That,” she says with evident satisfaction, “is the big picture.”

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FAR FROM THE TREE Nana Mae’s and the sour taste of an ungrafted economy

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pples! Such an innocent fruit. The sturdy globe of a red-cheeked apple is American shorthand for student affection of favored teachers, wholesome homespun values, patriotic pies, and good health. Apples! Such cunning tricksters. Leave an apple tree ungrafted and it will produce an apple entirely its own, of a kind unknown anywhere else in the world. With small exception, its native fruit will be bitter and unpleasant. Apples! Replaced by grapes. Really? Only six percent of Sonoma County’s 1 million acres is planted to grapes. And while wine grapes are certainly highly valued, bringing in some $582 million in 2012, apples held their own, with the treasured heritage Gravenstein variety hauling in over $1.7 million and the overall apple crop topping $5.3 million.

Paul and Kendra Kolling of Nana Mae’s Organics.

PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

After grapes, apples are the most widely planted and lucrative crop in the county. So why are things so tough for apple farmers Paul and Kendra Kolling? It’s as though Sonoma County’s apple industry was never grafted onto something that would mark it sweetly through the generations.

The Kollings own and operate Nana Mae’s Organics in Sebastopol, a business devoted to processing

heirloom, organic, sustainable Sonoma County apple products into juice and sauce. They’ve had a good run. But it might be over. Don’t blame the grapes. Blame the producer’s conundrum. Blame capitalism. What the hell, blame the French. “We’re basically modern-day share-croppers,” says Kendra Kolling bluntly. The Kollings farm 300 acres of apple trees in orchards held by 100 landowners. Paul Kolling has been in the business for almost 30 years and the couple have achieved wide regard for their juice and sauce on shelves along the West Coast. But one couple can’t farm, pick, and process 20,000 pounds of product a year themselves. They need a co-packer, an outfit set up to take their work onto the shelves. In the Kolling’s case, that’s Manzana, the Graton company that’s served them well for decades. Until March 2012, that is, when this family business was sold to a European agricultural conglomerate based in France and, according to Kendra Kolling, everything changed. “They’ve shifted the way that we’ve done business by putting a cog in the wheel of the structure,” she says. Nana Mae’s—named for Paul’s grandmother—typically produces 15,000-20,000 cases of heirloom apple products solely sourced from Sonoma County in a year. CONTINUED ON PAGE 21

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Contacted at her offices, Manzana president Suzi Kaido refuted the suggestion that any changes in the plant’s operation are due to the sale in March 2012 to Agrial/Eclorsa and refused to comment on the sale itself. In the old days, Kolling says, Manzana would accept a down payment on the year’s work and the family would pay as they went. In the new days, Kolling says, Manzana gives just 30 days for the business to pay for whatever it produces. “We are not able to do it,” she says flatly. “We can no longer store product there and have to pay for what we make within 30 days. Instead of the 20,000 cases we need to keep the shelves full, we were only able to put up 5,000 cases.” 2013, Kendra says, was a “perfect storm, a bountiful apple harvest” with gorgeous sweet globes hanging from the trees. The Kollings sorrowfully sold some 5,000 pounds of excellent fruit to a vinegar producer to pay Manzana within its new 30-day limit on 5,000 cases of product, leaving them 15,000 cases short. Kaido says that she won’t “comment on it except to say that the reason we had to do that was because we

ran out of warehouse space. We need the co-packers to not just store their products in our warehouses.” What’s more, Kolling says that Manzana is no longer merely a co-packer but actually competes against them with its North Coast products, sourced from outof-state apples (think: Arizona) which can, with perfect legality, be labeled “Made in Sebastopol,” because that in fact is where the juice is squeezed (Graton purists notwithstanding). Kaido answers, “No, we get all we can from the local growers, and if that isn’t enough, we go into wherever we can in the United States where we can get good apples.” Going to another co-packer, Kolling says, is a fiscal impossibility. When factoring in trucking costs and the bruises of travel, it doesn’t make sense for Nana Mae to find another Bay Area co-packing facility. It makes more sense to shut down. “This is a very pivotal point in our operation,” she says, “because of what we offer in the local food economy. We suspend the local food harvest and put it on the shelf for folks. Right now we don’t know if we’ll be able to continue that because we just can’t come up with the money.”

As a self-described “good, industrious, farmer’s wife,” Kolling has launched her own Farmer’s Wife label, selling apple-positive sandwiches and salads at farmers’ markets to help support their family of five. There are rumors of hard cider production. But Nana Mae’s is at an impasse. “It’s a tough game and we struggle,” Kolling says. “A lot of people looking in from the outside think that we’re a big successful company, and that’s because we hustle and we work hard. Our margin is very small and our return on the product is very small. Sometimes we wake up and ask ourselves why we’re doing this. We’re into it too deep now.” She pauses. “We’re entirely dedicated to a local product. If it’s going to sustain itself, that’s to be determined.”

Article resources: nanamae.com

PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 19

We suspend the local food harvest and put it on the shelf for folks.

vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

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DRINK LOCAL

PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 DON MCCULLOUGH

DRNK ‘n’ Drones Winemaker Ryan Kunde doesn’t have to go high tech, but why wouldn’t he?

I

n 2011, in an Armenian cave, researchers discovered what might be the world’s oldest winery. The press, storage vessels, drinking cups, and vines, skins, and seeds scattered throughout the cave are thought to be 6,100 years old. In 2011, Ryan Kunde launched his first winery in what might be the world’s most ordinary barn with tools that are utterly new. Suffice it to say that a lot has changed in 6,100 years. Electricity is, of course, a start. But at Kunde’s DRNK winery in Sebastopol, aerial drones and Arduino microcontrollers are also part of the mix. Welcome to 21st century winemaking, where high tech doesn’t have to be utilized, but it seems a rotten shame not to. Kunde’s surname might be familiar. His family is in their fifth generation of wine production at their sustainable 700-acre facility in Kenwood, having celebrated their 100th anniversary back in 2004. Striking out on his own, it’s only natural that Kunde would want to use the freshest techniques in winemaking to complement the oldest techniques: walking the vineyards and feeling the heat of the ferment.

Article resources: drnkwines.com Open by Appointment: taste@drnkwines.com 707.889.1000 22

Kunde, who finished his schooling at UC Davis and did the Southern Hemisphere harvest before “getting the bug,” he says, while working at a boutique crush facility, was at Maker Faire in San Mateo when former Wired editor Chris Anderson took the stage to discuss aerial drones. “I heard Chris talk about how he put a cell phone in a plane and turned it into a drone, getting aerial imagery from his phone,” Kunde says. “I ended up spending the next year and a half in my garage putting planes together and learning how to fly them.” The Kunde family estate has a research plot, and Ryan was trying out the effects of biochar, putting carbon into the ground, he says, so that “microbes could slowly digest it over decades.” He sent one of his handmade airplanes up to take a look. “The variation on that one field was just tremendous,” he remembers. “You’re trying to glean some scientific evidence that this is a good way to sequester carbon. It was incredibly impactful to see that and, after that, I just knew how important it was to get my drones above the vineyards.

Kunde estate and other organic providers in Sonoma County. Like technologists, Kunde refers to his winery as a “startup.” He explains: “We’re starting fresh; everything that we’re doing with our wines is starting fresh. It will take time, but that’s part of it. Since we source fruit from growers, we get to work with the growers, learn about their vineyards, and build our offerings around what we think is the best wine for us at that time, whether it’s a Russian River blend or a broader North Coast blend. Having to put it all together at once is fun.” The first bottling isn’t yet done, but Kunde expects his Pinots will retail at restaurants and bottle shops for $52; the North Coast blend, for $28-$45. And then there’s the Arduino. A microcontroller invented in Italy and named for a restaurant by an artist who wanted to make his sculptures move, the Arduino is an extremely inexpensive computer board. Kunde uses his to track the fermentation heat of his must.

“This is nothing new,” Kunde says. “Growers have been using this technology for decades; they’ve been hiring planes to get imagery. But it can be expensive and the logistics daunting. With a drone, you can launch it every day if you want.”

“I’m using a temperature probe and an Arduino that logs it over time,” he says, “and you can see the accumulated heat that’s trapped in that cap. Just as there’s a Growing Degree Day idea—a way of having some typical measurement for the climate that you’re in— being able to have the same type of language to talk about your fermentation is really helpful.

DRNK doesn’t yet have its own vines growing onsite, so sources its Pinot, Chardonnay, Malbec, Pinot Gris, and Viognier grapes from nearby Russian River sites as well as the

“I’m doing it because I can, not because I have to,” Kunde says. “You can peek over the side and stick your hand into to feel the heat—but if you can quantify it, why wouldn’t you?”

M A D E L O C A L . C O O P | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | vol. 1, issue i



PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

Kala Philo’s Farm Shorts tell the stories that grow from the ground

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“The first rule of farming is: close the gate,” says Deborah Walton. “The second rule is: animals die. And down the list, there’s things like: don’t look up the row to see how far you have to go; look down the row to see how far you’ve come.” Walton and her husband, the artist Tim Schaible, own Canvas Ranch in Two Rock. Canvas is renowned for its innovative CSA program, its community outreach, and of course, for its Lamb Camps and Sheep Schools. But what folks might not know is that Canvas was born of grief. Walton and Schaible had owned an advertising agency for some 20 years when their only child, a daughter, contracted a brain tumor and quickly died at age 12. They turned to the hard work of the ranch to help assuage their grief and, Walton says, it still does, some 13 years later. That moving insight comes to us via Farm Shorts, a video project devoted to helping North Bay farmers tell their stories. The work of Santa Rosa filmmaker Kala Philo, Farm Shorts got its start in the spring of 2013 when Philo—who, with her husband Scott Collier, was already involved in the Slow Money movement that helps food producers find new sources of income—realized that most farmers hadn’t taken part in the video revolution. You know, the one that anyone with a smart phone can join.

“Video on the web is becoming ubiquitous and it’s becoming the way that people choose to get their information,” Philo explains, settling down on a wooden chair in a local coffee shop. “And if a certain type of business doesn’t have quality messaging videos online, I feel that they’re at a competitive disadvantage.” Philo, a pretty brunette, cracks up at her own marketing-speak, suggesting that the interviewer could make what she says sound better. But there’s no need. Midwestern by birth and an Austin, TX, native for years, Philo and her family moved to Sonoma County just two years ago. She quickly became a supporter of the Imaginists theater company and dove into other efforts to support local arts and foods. Involvement in Slow Money introduced Philo to area farmers and she soon realized that “none of them had any video on their websites. And they have these amazing stories, eyecandy visuals, and no video.” She laughs. “And, it’s totally understandable. They don’t have a budget for it, usually they don’t have a budget for marketing at all, and they don’t have time or expertise. And across the spectrum, that’s the case. There’s a lot of ag video out there, but none of it is like Farm Shorts.”

vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

The focus of Farms Shorts . . . is short. “It’s what you do, why you do it, and what makes you different,” Philo says. But from these two-minute glimpses into farm life, viewers come away with a luminous sense of what makes these hard-working people work so damned hard. Philo “bootstrapped” the project herself with $7,000 from an Indiegogo crowdfunding campaign and a determination not to just make a video or two, but to make at least 15 short films about North Bay farmers. “I wanted to do a critical mass,” Philo says. “Not only would they be a kick-ass opportunity for the farms, but taken together, you begin to literally see what the landscape of sustainable agriculture in this area really looks like. The videos are quick and fun; they’re like eating Fritos—or organic corn chips,” she laughs. “You see the face of the farmers and their farms and their amazing animals and you realize that not only is this possible, but that we have to revert back to the small farm in a large way.” Shooting occurred in four counties on 15 farms, at the fast clip of three farms a day in just a few weeks. Philo used her Indiegogo funds to hire James Simmons as director of photography, a glamorous title that CONTINUED ON PAGE 26

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 25

actually involved sitting in a lot of chicken poop. And, she says drily, “I developed a very efficient style.” Philo credits Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma as a catalyst for her activism, but adds that it really comes closer to home. Her family.

There’s a lot of ag video out there, but none of it is like Farm Shorts.

Philo says that her best friends are still her Iowa cousins and, as a child, she visited them each summer and winter holiday. She remembers attending a family reunion when she suddenly realized that everything was different. “It was so sad,” she says, “because my cousins were depressed and overweight and the landscape had completely changed because there was so much consolidation in agriculture that had happened in the ’70s and ’80s and the small farms had all gone away and you’re sitting there in the ‘Breadbasket’ of the country in an Applebee’s with the worst food in the world.” But Philo isn’t interested in dwelling on the negative. She’d much rather highlight than lowlight. “Farm Shorts is a positive project,” she says. “I don’t go huge on the GMO side; I’m more about truth in labeling. We just want to know. “ Philo hopes to take Farm Shorts national and to find largescale funding. But for now, she’s giddy at the opportunities that her first pass has given her. Stanford has called and she’s become involved with the Farmer’s Guild.

PHOTO: MICHAEL B. WOOLSEY

Regardless of where Farm Shorts goes, one thing is certain: Philo will continue to tell the stories that come from the dirt and grow into beauty. And yes—she’ll always remember to close the gate. Article resources: farmshorts.com Find Farm Shorts on the Made Local site: madelocal.coop

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M A D E L O C A L . C O O P | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | vol. 1, issue i


Delicious cookbooks

Sign up for Copperfield’s Books nEW Rewards Card & start saving 10% on most purchases!

copperfieldsbooks.com PeTAluMA • sANTA RosA • sebAsToPol • HeAlDsbuRG • cAlisToGA • NAPA • sAN RAFAel


CHRISTMAS TREE U-CUT FARMS It’s a safe bet that every farm listed for U-Cut Christmas trees will be open the day after Thanksgiving through Christmas Eve, but it’s always wise to call ahead and check.

Celesta Farms U-Cut: Fir 3447 Celesta Court, Sebastopol 707.829.9352 celestafarms.com

Fisher Farm Christmas Trees & Pumpkins U-Cut: Monterey Pine 2870 Canfield Road, Sebastopol 707.823.4817

Frosty Mountain Tree Farm U-Cut: Douglas Fir, Scotch Pine, and Sequoia 3600 Mariola Road, Sebastopol 707.829.2351 frostymountaintreefarm.com

Larsen’s Christmas Tree Farm

Moon Mountain Christmas Tree Farm

U-Cut: Incense Cedar, Leyland Cypress, Monterey Pine, Scotch Pine, Sierra Redwood, and other varieties 391 Marshall Avenue, Petaluma 707.762.6317

U-Cut: Douglas Fir, White Fir, Nobles, Scotch Pine 1550 Moon Mountain Drive, Sonoma 707.996.6454 moonmountainchristmastreefarm.com

Liberty Christmas Tree Farm

North Eagle Christmas Tree Farm

U-Cut: Douglas Fir, Leyland Cypress, Monterey Pine, Sierra Redwood 241 Liberty Road, Petaluma 707.490.6011 libertychristmastreefarm.com

U-Cut: Deodara Cedar, Douglas Fir, Incense Cedar, Monterey Pine, Scotch Pine, Sequoia Redwood, Sierra Redwood, Coastal Redwood 6191 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa 707.538.2554

Little Hills Christmas Tree Farm

Reindeer Ridge

U-Cut: Monterey Pine, Sierra Redwood, Leyland Cypress 961 Chapman Lane, Petaluma 707.763.4678 littlehillschristmastree.com

U-Cut: Douglas Fir, White Fir, Grand Fir, Sequoia, Monterey Pine, Scotch Pine, Incense Cedar, Leyland Cypress 3500 Mariola Road, Sebastopol 707.829.1569 reindeerridge.com

Garlock Tree Farm U-Cut: Fir and pine 2275 Bloomfield Road, Sebastopol 707.823.4307

Grandma Buddy’s Christmas Trees

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PHOTOS: CC BY 2.0 CORSI PHOTO

U-Cut: Douglas Fir 8575 Graton Road, Sebastopol 707.823.4547 grandmastrees.com

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2.0 AN NR KISZT PH OTO: CC BY

Bloomfield Bees Honey

U-Cut: White Fir, Douglas Fir, Grand Fir 11389 Barnett Valley Road, Sebastopol 707.823.6635

Local and varietal honeys 5770 Lois Avenue, Santa Rosa 707.836.7278 bloomfieldbeeshoney.com

Spirit of Christmas Tree Farm U-Cut: Blue Spruce, Deodara Cedar, Douglas Fir, Grand Fir, Incense Cedar, Monterey Pine, Noble Fir, Ponderosa Pine, Scotch Pine, Sequoia Redwood, White Fir (Concolor Fir), White Spruce 3660 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol 707.620.3104

Sunshine Living Christmas Trees

Hector’s Honey Farm Bee removal and pollinations. Vegetables, fruits, and fresh eggs 2794 Fulton Road, Fulton 707.579.9416

HOLIDAY POULTRY

Buy your turkey or goose right from the local farmer.

Golden Nectar Farm Medicinal plants, mushroom cultivation, chickens, ducks, eggs, farm products, nursery starts, and fresh produce 6364 Starr Road, Windsor 707.838.8189 goldennectar.com

Imwalle Gardens Fresh vegetables, bedding plants, seed, tomatoes, corn, squash, persimmons, beans, cucumbers, figs, sweet-hot peppers 685 W. Third Street, Santa Rosa 707.546.0279

Preston Farm and Winery

U-Cut: Douglas Fir, Monterey, Scotch and Stone Pine, Sierra Redwood, Leyland and Arizona Cypress 294 Palm Avenue, Penngrove 707.664.9335

Oluf’s Ranches Heritage turkey. Naturally grown, custom-fed beef 899 Shiloh Road, Windsor 707.838.7588 olufsranches.com

Seasonal vegetables, fruit, pickles, olives and olive oil. Pasture-raised spring lamb, kid, pigs, chickens, eggs. Brick-oven bread 9282 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg 707.433.3372 prestonofdrycreek.com

Wallinfarm

Willie Bird Turkeys

Tara Firma Farms

U-Cut: Douglas Fir and Colorado Blue Spruce 840 Ferguson Road, Sebastopol 707.823.6973

HONEY

Light your home this winter with local beeswax, and stay healthy with local honey.

Bear Foot Honey Farm Unprocessed honey, honeycomb, local bee pollen, beeswax, hand-dipped beeswax candles, and propolis 4372 Sonoma Highway, Suite D, Santa Rosa 707.570.2899 bearfoothoney.com

Free range and organic poultry 5350 Sebastopol Road (Hwy 12), Santa Rosa 707.545.2832 williebird.com

YEAR-ROUND FARM SOURCES You’re tough enough to visit a farm in the rain.

Apple-A-Day Ratzlaff Ranch Fresh apple juice 13128 Occidental Road, Sebastopol 707.823.0538

vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 CHIPPENZIEDEUTSCH

Santa’s Trees

Pasture-raised beef, pork, and chicken, along with those fresh eggs and veggies 3796 I Street, Petaluma 707.765.1202 tarafirmafarms.com

Tierra Vegetables Farm Stand Seasonal veggies as well as chipotle products, dried beans, corn meal, and popcorn 651 Airport Boulevard, Santa Rosa 707.837.8366 tierravegetables.com

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We invite you to discover our Italian-inspired cafe and restaurant set in the heart of the West Sonoma County’s Wine Country. Enjoy our candlelit paao dining with a glass from our small produccon wine list and sample our personal passion: cuisine that you will want to linger over.

OPEN DAILY FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER. We are just up the hill from downtown Sebastopol, on the corner of Florence Avenue. 7385 Healdsburg Ave. Sebastopol CA • 707-829-1077 • www.peterlowells.com


BEES

Buzz is the animated mascot for Honey Nut Cheerios, just one of many brands using honey, bees, and their cheerful connotations to sell everything from Marc Jacobs cologne to Jack Daniels liquor (“Its taste is honey. Its soul is Jack”). Suffice it to say, honey is hot. Like olive oil and cheese, honey’s homely cred has risen—at least with marketers. In an October 2013 New York Times article, the editor in chief of the Food Network summed the trend up neatly: “It’s got a great cool factor. It’s not as extreme as raising goats.” Good thing that high-fructose corn sugar can be made to taste like honey because, for all the popularity the sweet stuff is suddenly enjoying, it’s getting harder to come by. Blame the bees. Because while Buzz is surfing and beelaxing and rapping and loop-de-looping, actual bees are dying. Colony Collapse Disorder, an as-yet undefined phenomenon that probably combines pesticide ingestion with mites with fungus with introduction of foreign species, is killing our nation’s honey bees. In Sonoma County, that threat is coupled with drought. Our apiary production fell nearly 15 percent from 2011 to 2012.

“It lies largely with the consumers,” says Kathy Kellison, the outreach coordinator for Partners for Sustainable Pollination (PFSP), an organization based in Santa Rosa. “Consumers have to understand that they have to support food-production practices that are more environmentally sound and sustainable by helping farmers who are willing to transition away from large monoculture. We have 97 million acres of corn, just corn, in the U.S.” Not aided by bats, moths, beetles, hummingbirds, or bees, corn stalks pollinate each other with wind.

Title of the Article Subhead of the article

“Diversifying farms so that there are different sources of pollen and more sustainable practices that transition away from the use of pesticides is another way,” Kellison says. “That’s why we initiated bee-friendly farming: to help consumers recognize growers who are using part of their working land to plant different kinds of pollen- and nectar-producing plants to nourish bees.” Bee-friendly farms go through a certification process with PFSP to ensure that they’re doing what they can to encourage bee health on their land. Some 250 producers have been certified nationally since the program launched three years ago. PHOTO: CC BY 2.0 VAGAWI

B

uzz the Bee is brushing up on his surfing skills. We know that because Buzz is shown ready to hang 10 with an attractive blonde human in an Instagram #selfie. He’s also in the mood to #beelax, a popular hashtag on his Twitter account, @buzzthebee. Buzz recently had the great fortune to catch an extra ride on a roller coaster. We can watch him loop-de-loop on his Vine collection. Best of all, Buzz gets to chill with the rapper Nelly, helping her change the lyric “must be the money” to his favored line, “must be the honey,” also deeply hashtagged on Twitter.

Marketers discover bees . . . pleased they’re not as “extreme” as goats

In the winter, beehive populations drop significantly. A typical hive might have 60,00080,000 bees in the summer months and 20,00030,000 in the winter. During the cold months, bees huddle in a near-hibernation state; their massing ensures the inside temperature of the hive remains at around 93 degrees Fahrenheit. While the bees rest, we can plan to help them. Pollinator.org has a terrific download for gardeners to use, based on zip code, to plant more fully for pollinators. Perhaps then, we too can beelax.

How to help the bees? Plant, expand, reduce— and personal responsibility. vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

Article resources: pfspbees.org pollinator.org 31


428 Center Street Healdsburg, CA 95448 707-431-0530

Bringing together producer and consumer in a spirit of partnership, community and trust

www.SheltonsMarket.com


COMMUNITY GARDEN NETWORK of SONOMA COUNTY INFO: communitygardensonoma.org CONTACT: 707.623.0239 autumn@communitygardensonoma.org FOUNDED: 2012 ACCEPTS DONATIONS? YES NEEDS VOLUNTEERS? YES ANNUAL OPERATING BUDGET: $55,000 PRIMARY CLIENTS SERVED: All existing and potential community gardens in Sonoma County; special focus on

neighborhoods with significant food access, organizational, financial or political challenges, or large number of lower income or Spanish-speaking households.

If your organization could accomplish just one thing in 2014, what would that be?

Strong community garden leaders emerging from our Leadership Skills Building courses who are helping improve their gardens as well as developing relationships with regional community gardens and others in their neighborhoods.

What trend or action have you seen in the past year within your field of work that is the most encouraging to your mission?

NOMINATED BY

GO LOCAL

Tremendous interest in new garden creation; lots of people looking for plots—see our online directory: communitygardensonoma.org.

What other food-related Sonoma County nonprofit do you most admire and why?

Ceres Community Project. It is attracting people of all ages and backgrounds around the common bond of caring for each other and the earth.

DAILY ACTS INFO: dailyacts.org CONTACT: 707.789.9664 moreinfo@dailyacts.org FOUNDED: 2002 ACCEPTS DONATIONS? YES NEEDS VOLUNTEERS? YES ANNUAL OPERATING BUDGET: $430,000 PRIMARY CLIENTS SERVED: Engaged citizens, students and leaders working to reclaim our future and the health of

our communities and environment.

If your organization could accomplish just one thing in 2014, what would that be? The greatest thing we can accomplish is to further catalyze a critical mass of action by educating 7,000 change makers in 2014 and inspiring thousands of actions through the 350 Home and Garden Challenge next May to help people grow food, save water, conserve energy, and build community. By focusing on simple solutions that build local self-reliance, we reconnect people to their power, to community, and to nature.

What trend or action have you seen in the past year within your field of work that is the most encouraging to your mission? The explosion of interest and collaborative action by citizens, nonprofits, schools, churches, health centers, businesses, and cities in regards to growing food, sheet mulching lawns, recycling greywater and participating in efforts like the 350 Home and Garden Challenge. Just this year, we registered over 3,500 local actions and hundreds of projects for the 350 Challenge, with thousands more regionally and nationally through groups replicating this program.

What other food-related Sonoma County nonprofit do you most admire and why?

NOMINATED BY

GO LOCAL

The Ceres Project. Cathryn Couch and her stellar team and supporters have been blowing me away with how much they have achieved in the short 7 years since they started. They are a heart-centered, highly effective, and deeply inspiring organization, which empowers youth to serve nutritious healing foods to people faced with serious illness. Additionally, Cathryn comes from a very collaborative and open place, helping to support and strengthen the community of leaders around her, including us. vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

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Petaluma Pie Company

Bistro 29

125 Petaluma Boulevard N., Petaluma

620 Fifth Street, Santa Rosa

petalumapie.com | 7MMM-PIE

bistro29.com | 546.2929

A farm-to-table bakery café specializing

Traditional French bistro fare featuring

in sweet and savory pies made with

fresh buckwehat crepes, sweet

local and organic ingredients.

crepes and a full bistro menu.

Dierk’s Midtown Café

1422 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa dierksmidtown.com | 545.2323 Breakfast, lunch, and brunch with

La Vera Pizza

omelets, homemade hollandaise, salads,

628 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa

and sandwiches made from fresh,

laverapizza.com | 575.1113

local ingredients.

“The Real” pizza, done right...for more than 30 years. La Vera makes delicious pizzas from fresh, local ingredients.

Gaia’s Garden

1899 Mendocino Avenue, Santa Rosa gaiasgardenonline.com | 544.2491 Voted the Best Vegetarian Restaurant in Sonoma County for the last 3 years! Come and enjoy food, music, and art in a tranquil setting.

Infusions Teahouse

6988 McKinley Avenue, Sebastopol infusionsteahouse.com | 829.1181 Organic meals all day with delicious vegan and gluten-free gems. We serve you the finest, organic teas from around the world.


Heritage Public House bar & kitchen

Barbecue Seafood Salads & Vegetarian Find out why we are voted Best Sonoma County BBQ every year! Lunch & Dinner 7 days a week 11:30 to 8:30 mon - sat : 11:30am - 12:00am 1901 mendocino ave. santa rosa Closed tues sun :10:00 am - 8:00pm www.heritagepublichousesr.com drink up & eat well

BBQ Smokehouse Bistro & Catering 6811 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol 707-829-3277 • bbqsmokehousecatering.com


Evan Wiig and the Farmer’s Guild bring new and seasoned producers together

T PHOTO: COURTESY OF EVAN WIIG

he young man on stage takes a deep swig from the bottle of Wild Turkey in his hand and turns to the microphone. Frontman for Whiskey and Circumstance, a band that describes itself as “USDA-certified organic, pasture-raised, farm-to-stage cowboy disco,” Evan Wiig sings about heartbreak, love, and glitter floating in his trough. Two years ago, Wiig worked for an academic publisher in New York City. On this night, he’s thousands of miles away in every respect, entertaining a crowd in Sebastopol gathered to celebrate the Community

Alliance with Family Farms and Farmlink. The crowd is young and slender, lifting pints with dirt-begrimed fingers as children with homemade haircuts run between their legs. Aside from the fact that no one is smoking (anything), it’s like being back in the ’70s. Meet the new generation of family farmers. Wiig, 27, moved to Valley Ford from Brooklyn in 2011 after realizing that he’d much rather spend time at the local farmer’s markets and on the abandoned property he’d helped turn into an urban garden than sit at his desk in Manhattan.

LA TORTILLA FACTORY

GUAYAKÍ CLASSIC GOLD

GUAYAKÍ REVEL BERRY

Santa Rosa | latortillafactory.com Low-carb, whole wheat tortillas. Large size, 80 calories, 12g fiber, 8g protein.

Sebastopol | guayaki.com A high-energy infusion made with Yerba Maté. Organic and fair trade.

Sebastopol | guayaki.com Sparkling delight from the Yerba Maté tree. Organic and delicious.

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M A D E L O C A L . C O O P | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | vol. 1, issue i


A friend’s family owned a cattle ranch out here, so Wiig took off for Sonoma County to learn, among other things, that he has an uncanny affection for chickens. He also learned that there was a stunning amount about farming and ranching that he doesn’t know. “I met some people my age who were also giving it a go, and we started having dinner and drinks and, over the course of those meet-ups, I realized that everyone was sharing information and resources,” Wiig says by phone from his home at Green Valley Village in West County. “People were talking about planting resources and comparing chicken coop designs. That was incredibly helpful, and I realized that it was a vital resource for people who are getting into farming.” He chuckles. “Soon enough, it didn’t fit in our kitchen any more.” The Farmer’s Guild was born. An inveterate organizer, Wiig formalized the dinner-and-drink meets into monthly events that became Farmer’s Guild meetings at Sebastopol’s GrowKitchen, encouraging new farmers to swap information and stories with

older farmers. They soon outgrew that space, too, and in November launched a new monthly program with the area Grange association. “What the Farmer’s Guild does is to provide an incubator for ideas,” Wiig says. “The Farmer’s Guild is a group that supports the newest generation of farmers, but what’s most essential is that we build a connection between this generation and people who have been doing it for a long time. One group is the future, but it’s also the one that can provide some enthusiasm and excitement. What we need is experience and wisdom. It’s a lot nicer if one person can make a mistake for everyone and let everyone know.” Each evening begins with a “potluck of epic proportions,” as everyone brings their best produce to showcase. “It’s really cool because there’s a lot of pride in that,” he says. And then there is a speaker, be it someone from UC Davis Extension or, as happened last fall, a young woman with a “book report” on an old 1930s text she’d found on how to start a farm.

He’s actually been so successful in his outreach efforts that Wiig isn’t farming right now at all. Instead, his Farmer’s Guild is working with FarmsReach.com, which helps create a digital community for farmers. “I’m helping to develop this website as a tool for farming communities,” Wiig says. “Nowadays, you can communicate, ask questions, post events. You can communicate with your guild network as long as you have a smart phone, you can do that in the middle of your field, in the milking barn, out in the pastures, even if you’re 50 miles from the next neighbor.” Farming is difficult, dirty, poorly paid work without a whit of security. Why are so many young people embracing it? Wiig thinks for a minute. “There are two things,” he says. “Number one is that people are reexamining the food system that we’ve taken for granted for so long. Not many of us have grown up with direct access to agriculture and there’s a realization that this disconnect is dangerous. The CONTINUED ON PAGE 38

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vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 37

agriculture industry is changing at such a rapid speed that people are getting alarmed. If we continue to be so passive in consuming the basic essentials of life, we’re endangering ourselves.”

PHOTO: COURTESY OF EVAN WIIG

He’s also concerned about the monopolization of such products as pork and the danger that lies in having one corporation control everything about the product from the animal’s genes on down. “The second reason is just authenticity,” he says. “People are looking to find an honest living. My generation is the first that’s really grown up in a world where we’re clicking a lot of buttons. I embrace technology, obviously I think it’s a wonderful tool for connecting and organizing, but I think that the world we’ve grown up with is so far from getting our hands dirty or even just doing manual labor.”

. . . people are drawn to the idea of chicken poop on their shoes.

He pauses. “People are drawn to the idea of getting chicken shit on their shoes.” Article resources: farmersguild.org farmsreach.com

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Petaluma | amys.com Deliciously natural organic meals, made from genuine recipes.

Fulton | kj.com Grand Reserve Cab. Distinct blackberry, blueberry, currants with mocha notes.

Fulton | kj.com Vinter’s Reserve Merlot. Layered black cherry and plum with delicate tannins.

M A D E L O C A L . C O O P | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | vol. 1, issue i


PETALUMA BOUNTY INFO: petalumabounty.org CONTACT: 707.364.9118 FOUNDED: 2006 ACCEPTS DONATIONS? YES NEEDS VOLUNTEERS? YES ANNUAL OPERATING BUDGET: $160,000 PRIMARY CLIENTS SERVED: Low income children, families, and seniors.

If your organization could accomplish just one thing in 2014, what would that be? Funding and hiring a bilingual educator/facilitator. This would allow us to expand and formalize educational initiatives at Bounty, including 1) a field trip program to the Bounty Farm, 2) engage families receiving our services to take an active role in our gleaning program, and 3) broaden the curriculum offered for our youth job and leadership training on the farm.

What trend or action have you seen in the past year within your field of work that is the most encouraging to your mission? The increased awareness of the amount of food waste in our food system. Thanks to the work of CropMobster and our partner gleaning organizations, there is a resurgence of interest and action to prevent food waste. For Petaluma Bounty, more volunteers= less food wasted and improved community access to healthy food!

What other food-related Sonoma County nonprofit do you most admire and why?

Sonoma County Food System Alliance. They bring together stakeholders from all parts of the food system–farmers ranchers, food producers, processors, consumers, educators, food justice advocates–to facilitate conversation and help members see overlapping interests. In order to have a thriving local food system (and local economy), we need buy in and collaboration from groups that may not have worked together in the past. Sonoma County Food System Alliance (supported by Ag. Innovations Networks) is making progress on a county level.

NOMINATED BY

Clover-Stornetta

Sustainable, local, delicious!

Celebrating 45 years of being your local specialty dairy producer in Sonoma County. We're farmers and we're passionate about good food.

Made local and simply the best. Certified Humane® • Solar Powered Farm & Creamery • Sonoma County Green Business

Visit us online: RedwoodHill.com and GreenValleyLactoseFree.com


WORTH OUR WEIGHT INFO: worthourweight.org CONTACT: 544.1200 info@worthourweight.org FOUNDED: 2006 ACCEPTS DONATIONS? YES NEEDS VOLUNTEERS? YES ANNUAL OPERATING BUDGET: N/A PRIMARY CLIENTS SERVED: At risk youth.

If your organization could accomplish just one thing in 2014, what would that be? The most important thing for Worth Our Weight in 2014 is opening the second location of Worth Our Weight, which will serve our apprentices who have graduated. It will provide them with a job while still allowing them to be an integral part of the Worth Our Weight team.

What trend or action have you seen in the past year within your field of work that is the most encouraging to your mission? One trend that is very encouraging to our mission is the farm to table resurgence. As a chef, it’s been shocking to witness the decline of young people’s knowledge of the sources of their food. How refreshing to see kindergartners raving about fennel and fava beans from their gardens. The Worth Our Weight youth are harvesting the last of the season’s tomatoes and basil.

What other food-related Sonoma County nonprofit do you most admire and why? NOMINATED BY

Summit State Bank

I am in awe of the work of The Redwood Gospel Mission. I walk early mornings along the Prince Memorial Greenway and I am brought to tears by the presence of people, young and old, sleeping along the creek. I see them rise, wash, pull it together, and walk down to Redwood Gospel Mission for a meal.

Kindred Handcrafts

Never boring. Fair Trade Table Top and Home Decor 605 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa 707-579-1459 • kindredhandcrafts.com

D O C U M E N T I N G P E O P L E | E V E N T S | F O O D | C U LT U R E

Monday – Sat, 10:30 – 6, Sunday 12 – 5



Heritage Public House

1901 Mendocino Avenue, Santa Rosa

Guayakí Yerba Maté Café

6782 Sebastopol Avenue, Sebastopol

heritagepublichousesr.com | 540.0395

guayaki.com/matebar | 824.6644

A family-run gastropub, featuring the best

Great care has been taken to provide

in California craft beer and wine,

the finest in certified organic and

and the bounty of

sustainable fare to astonish your

Sonoma County.

palate and nourish your body and soul.

Russian River Brewing Cº. 725 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa

russianriverbrewing.com | 545.2337 Home of the world-famous Pliny the Younger beer, Russian River Brewing offers a full menu, fantastic pizza,

Lagunitas Tap Room & Beer Sanctuary

and live music.

1289 N. McDowell Blvd, Petaluma lagunitas.com/taproom | 575.1113 The Tap Room features great bands and events and, of course, great chow and beer you won’t find on any store shelves.

Peter Lowell’s

7385 Healdsburg Avenue, Sebastopol peterlowells.com | 829.1077 A West Sonoma County organic eatery, featuring local, sustainably produced ingredients served up fresh with gourmet flair.

Stout Brothers Irish Pub & Restaurant

527 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa stoutbrospub.com | 636.0240 This downtown Santa Rosa’s authentic Irish pub has a full bar with live music and offers a traditional Irish menu and much more.


CERES COMMUNITY PROJECT INFO: ceresproject.com CONTACT: 829.5833 info@ceresproject.org FOUNDED: 2007 ACCEPTS DONATIONS? YES NEEDS VOLUNTEERS? YES ANNUAL OPERATING BUDGET: $1,300,000 PRIMARY CLIENTS SERVED: Sonoma County residents facing health crises, where high-quality meals can support

the healing process.

What’s the most important thing you will accomplish in 2014? Deliver 70,000 free, organic nourishing meals—all of them prepared by our 300 volunteer teen chefs—to client families in Sonoma County who are dealing with health crises. Thanks to our innovative model, each of those meals gives teens an opportunity to learn about growing, cooking, and eating fresh, whole foods, and engages and educates hundreds of adult volunteers, businesses, and donors to create a healthier, stronger community for us all.

What trend or action have you seen in the past year within your field of work that is the most encouraging to your mission?

NOMINATED BY

Oliver’s Market

We are most excited about the growing focus on collaborative working groups. Initiatives like Cradle to Career, the Youth Network, and the Food Action Plan are bringing together nonprofits, businesses, and local government to create long-term sustainable solutions that will help create a healthier and more connected community for generations to come.

What other food-related Sonoma County nonprofit do you most admire and why? There are so many tremendously important food-related nonprofits in Sonoma County, but our vote goes to Redwood Empire Food Bank. Not only are they ensuring that 78,000 people each year have enough food to eat but they are deeply committed to the quality of that food—with a real emphasis on fresh fruits and vegetables and whole grains. And, the addition of their new Value Market is increasing access to healthy and affordable food for many in our county.

SONOMA COUNTY FARM TRAILS INFO: farmtrails.org gravensteinapplefair.com CONTACT: 837.8896 farmtrails@farmtrails.org FOUNDED: 1973 ACCEPTS DONATIONS? YES NEEDS VOLUNTEERS? YES ANNUAL OPERATING BUDGET: N/A PRIMARY CLIENTS SERVED: Our website and annual Map & Guide serve as marketing exposure for farmers/

producers, a tool for Chambers & Visitor Centers, and a resource for the general public looking to source food locally and to connect with agriculture in Sonoma County. The Gravenstein Apple Fair cultivates community, supports local vendors, producers & talent, and provides a family-friendly celebration of rural heritage.

What’s the most important thing you will accomplish in 2014? Our aim this year is to produce another successful Gravenstein Apple Fair that further integrates the mission of Farm Trails and helps to stabilize the organization, while providing an enriching community experience.

What trend or action have you seen in the past year within your field of work that is the most encouraging to your mission? The trend to eat locally grown food and to create personal connections between consumers and farmers gets stronger and more hopeful every day.

What other food-related Sonoma County nonprofit do you most admire and why?

NOMINATED BY

GO LOCAL

We are most inspired by the energy, momentum, and vibrancy of the Heirloom Exposition. We appreciate the visibility and enthusiasm they’ve generated on behalf of agricultural diversity, seed sovereignty, and, of course, heirlooms. vol. 1, issue i | D E C /J A N 13 -14 | M A D E L O C A L . C O O P

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IT PAYS TO GO LOCAL Rewards Card has been helping local residents save on everyday food and beverage purchases for a couple of years now, and it’s still a new idea. After all, how many rewards cards allow you to earn and spend at so many different places? Show your support for local establishments when you dine or grocery shop and save a little every trip. It adds up to a whole lot of savings every year.

Rewards Card accepted here . . . La Vera Pizza • JoJo Sushi • Savory Spice Shop • Gaia’s Garden • Pearson & Co. • Sweet T’s Community Market, Santa Rosa & Sebastopol • BBQ Smokehouse • Sizzling Tandoor Sonoma Chocolatiers & Infusions Teahouse • Lulu & Hill Espresso Bar • Cotati Coffee Corner Guayakí Yerba Maté Café • Sazón Peruvian Cuisine • Ancient Oak Cellars Frozen Art Gourmet Ice Cream • Sub Zero Ice Cream & Yogurt


SATURDAYS | 11AM

GOOD FOOD HOUR

Hosted by Chef John Ash and Steve Garner

WEDNESDAYS | 5PM

WINE WEDNESDAYS Hosted by Steve Jaxon

FIRST SATURDAYS | NOON

COOKING IN SONOMA Hosted by Chef Josh Silvers

SATURDAYS | NOON

ON THE WINE ROAD Hosted by Jeff Davis

Like us on Facebook . . . facebook.com/1350KSRO


Locally owned and operated since 1987 1947

| 2013

Ripen or wither, change is the only constant. Take fruit, for example. Apple production has decreased significantly over the past 65 years from $27 million in 1947 (inflation adjusted) to $3.6 million in 2012. In contrast, grape production has increased nearly 50 times its 1947 mark of $12 million (inflation adjusted) to $582 million in 2012. In the old days, peaches, plums, and pears held their own output value. In the new days, well, not so much. And who knew that we used to have a robust cherry crop! Old-timers, I guess.

210 Western Ave. Petaluma, CA 94952 (707) 762-5464

None of these stats say that apples are good and grapes are bad or vice-versa. What they point to is that our economic vitality is hugely affected by the crops we grow, process, and send to market. Wine grape value in 2012 rocketed 68% above that in 2011. Turns out, we can literally grow our own gold. But what such stats do tell us is that food producers can learn an awful lot from wine grape producers. It’s all just ag, after all. In the last 40 years, grape growers have learned that to produce, bottle, and sell Sonoma County fruit and our unique terroir simply makes for terrific business. Here’s to the rest of us catching up. —Gretchen Giles

PetalumaMarket.com



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