T R AV E L
MEXICO CITY & SAN MIGUEL AN EXTENDED WEEKEND STAY written by: Brian Bogert / photography: Josh Welch
As a young consultant fresh out of college, I was assigned to a communications project in Mexico City. Every Monday morning, I would hold my breath as we descended through the smog and landed in the massive city. The size of the city and the amount of pollution was breathtaking, literally. After collecting my baggage and fighting the airport crowds, I’d locate my driver, an armored car required by our company during those times, and settle in for our hour and a half, nine-mile, bumper to bumper journey to the hotel. Fast forward 15 years and this city that has undergone an unimaginable cultural renaissance has cleaned up its act. Public spaces and parks are flourishing once again, architecture and museums have been restored, and the cocktail and culinary scene is thriving. The streets have been cleaned up, police presence is expanded, crime is down and Mexico City has managed to distance itself from the drug war making the capital city one of the safest travel destinations in Mexico. We landed in Mexico City on a beautiful spring day and arrived at the stunning St. Regis Hotel along the Paseo de Reforma. A city that once was unsafe to travel by taxi now has UBERs readily available and various forms of public transportation. Upon arrival at the hotel, we ran into Conan O’Brien and his crew whom were walking the streets of the Reforma interviewing locals for his upcoming episode on the rebirth of the city. We decided to follow his lead and hit the streets to explore the city. The area was bustling with businessmen and women in their perfectly tailored suits as we strolled along the Reforma taking in the beautiful monuments and fountains such as the Angel de la Indepenencia. Next, we traveled to the vibrant Roma district, which is quickly becoming the SOHO of Mexico City. Its streets lined with art deco buildings, boutiques, bars and cafes make this one of the liveliest areas in the city. The innovative Mercado Roma is lined with food vendors and a modern beer hall, which serves as the district’s gathering place. After an extended lunch, we took to the streets again exploring the high-end shops along the Presidente Masaryk Avenue, Mexico City’s answer to Beverly Hills. Here we found Gucci, Hermes, John Varvatos, Goyard and other designers in this mile stretch of shopping paradise. Just off the avenue in the beautiful outdoor café lined streets you will find the highlights of Mexico City’s gastronomical
achievement, Chef Enrique Olvera’s Pujol and its more casual sister restaurant Quintonil. The next morning, we were back at it again, taking in the culture and art. Our first stop was the magnificent Casa Azul, the birthplace of Frida Kahlo and later home to her and husband Diego Rivera. Casa Azul now serves as a museum dedicated to the life, struggles and art of Frida and depicts the major events of her life in procession. Each of the ten rooms tells her story and displays the different mediums of art she used in that particular time period. Just down the road in San Angel we visited Diego Rivera’s home and studio where just across the street lies the hidden gem of Mexico’s past, The San Angel Inn. Built in the 17th century, it’s as if time stood still when entering this ornate hacienda. Designed in the original Mexican colonial style architecture, its dark wood, vast gardens and original stone fountains are reminiscent of a quieter time where deals were made over a lavish lunch or a cigar in the parlor room. The service was groomed to perfection as we dined on Mexican favorites including the most spectacular Chilaquiles I have ever tasted. After lunch, we explored the wonderful San Angel neighborhood and its cobblestone streets and historic homes. A quiet relaxing neighborhood just far enough from the city center to take a step back from the hustle and bustle of it all. Next stop was the Zocolo, the city center, where we took in the historic Spanish architecture of the cathedrals and hunted for the many Diego Rivera murals around the square. The over-sized flag of Mexico ripples to perfection in the sky at this picturesque square lined with rooftop cafes, French bistros and street-side coffee shops. We rounded out the day on the terrace of the St. Regis’ Ole King Cole Bar, which is as lively a spot as you can find on a Friday evening. Afterward, we ventured to Mexico City’s most famous cocktail bar Hanky Panky. In the speakeasy style, no address is listed and you arrive at this destination by word of mouth. We ended up at a tiny hole in the wall Fonda or taco joint that was nearly deserted like a ghost town. Beyond the beer fridge door however we were lead into a private room behind a curtain that couldn’t have looked any further from its unassuming entrance. The beautiful mirrored walls, tufted velvet booths and well-dressed staff crafting elegant cocktails made for the poshest of evening destinations. LUXIERE 23