ANATOMY OF A CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE
SOFT AND CAKEY VERSUS CRISP AND CHEWY: WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE? We often like what our taste buds are used to, whether that is grandma’s recipe—which may actually be from the back of the chocolate chip bag—or a variation. Without straying too far from the classic formula it is possible to play with standard ingredients and techniques to come up with a cookie that will please your particular tastes. Cookie lovers generally divide themselves into crisp and chewy or soft and cakey categories. Here are techniques and key tips to help achieve your favorite and a recipe for each cookie camp.
Soft and Cakey Chocolate Chip Cookies MAKES ABOUT 36 COOKIES
21⁄2 cups (336 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon kosher or fine sea salt ¼ teaspoon baking powder 1 cup (180 grams) packed light brown sugar 1⁄2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 large egg 2 large egg whites 1 10-ounce bag bittersweet chocolate chips 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, salt and baking powder. 2. In the bowl of an electric mixer or a large bowl if using a hand-held mixer, combine brown sugar, granulated sugar and butter, and cream together on medium-low speed until fluffy and light, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla, egg and egg whites and mix until incorporated. Add the flour mixture and mix until a dough forms. Add the chocolate chips and mix to combine. 3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. 4. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper. 5. Use a small ice cream scoop to drop rounded spoonfuls onto parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving about 3 inches between each cookie. 6. Bake until golden around the edges but soft on top, 8 to 9 minutes. Let stand on baking sheet for 5 minutes and then remove with a metal spatula to a wire rack to cool. Tips and Tricks: Soft and Cakey Cookies • Cream butter and sugar together. This will whip some air into the dough, so your cookies will puff up a bit in the oven. • ⁄ teaspoon of baking powder along with the soda will provide more lift. • Subtract an egg yolk and use an extra egg white. Egg whites contain more water than yolks, which when evaporated in the oven, helps cookies rise like little cakes. • Use twice as much brown sugar as white sugar. Brown sugar, which is slightly acidic, will react with the baking soda in the recipe for a higher rise. • Add a little extra flour, enough to add structure, but not so much that it will dilute the sweetness of the sugar. • Chill the dough. Cold dough will spread less in the oven, creating a cakey center. • Turn up the heat. If a recipe calls for 350°F, increase to 375°F. A hotter oven will allow the cookies to bake before spreading, resulting in cakey centers.
42 real food fall 2016