Lunds & Byerlys
Culinary Tour Master our countryâ€™s favorite regional recipes
FIRE & SPICE: Asian-inspired grilling FIRMLY PLANTED: Vegetarian comfort food SUMMER PASTA: Create the quick meal
Eden Prairie 952-934-6730
Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.
realâ€‰food summer 2018
20 Celebrate Summer Pasta Master quick pasta meals and add a snap of freshness to the table when produce is at its peak BY ROBIN ASBELL
26 Fire and Spice Heat up the grill this season with flavorful Asian flair BY BRUCE AIDELLS
36 Culinary Road Trip Take a cross-country tour of regionally inspired American dishes BY MOLLY STEVENS
46 Firmly Planted Vegetarian comfort food to feed your body and soul BY LEAH VANDERVELDT
52 Laila Ali Helping home cooks win in the kitchen BY TARA Q. THOMAS
Departments 4 Bites Family favorites with winning twists RECIPES BY SIRI DALY
6 Kitchen Skills Sushi: California rolls at home BY JASON ROSS
8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Aquafaba: Vegan egg white substitute BY LIANNA MATT
18 Healthy Habits Heart-healthy food tips BY MARY SUBIALKA
56 Pairings Hot Companions: Beefy wine mates BY MARY SUBIALKA
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Grilled Steak, Bell Pepper and Onion Skewers (page 38) Photograph by Terry Brennan
PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF CONTENT TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITORS KATIE BALLALATAK AND LIANNA MATT ASSISTANT CONTENT PRODUCER KYLE SMELTER EDITORIAL INTERNS PARKER HUNSTIGER AND LAUREN PAHMEIER SENIOR ARTâ€ˆDIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON GRAPHIC DESIGNER PAUL BOEHNKE PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ATHAR KAKKA
VOLUME 14, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com C
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.
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A Template for Taste Buds Enjoy cooking as much as eating with twists on family favorites
t seems safe to say we all hope to eat well and cook healthy meals for our families—we could just use a little help. For twists on “simple recipes for the real home cook,” Siri Daly, who is always thinking one meal ahead, is dishing up some of that help. A Minnesota native, Daly was a television writer and producer before becoming a stay-at-home mom of three young kids and starting her food blog, Siriously Delicious, as a place to keep track of and share the recipes that worked for her busy life. Now in her debut cookbook of the same name, she shares easy-to-follow recipes with a goal to satisfy both kids and adults that are approachable for even a novice cook. Married to television host Carson Daly, she is a regular “Today” show food contributor and knows the challenges of cooking for picky palates—and crazy schedules. Daly likens recipes to blueprints in the intro of her book—a template for your taste buds that shouldn’t intimidate but rather motivate. With that in mind, and with the notion that cooking should be just as enjoyable as eating, Daly’s book includes approachable recipes from breakfast to dessert as well as entertaining. In the following excerpt, potato salad, the ever-popular summer side is dressed up with a “winning” twist, and an easily adaptable chicken dish can make both grown-ups and children happy. —Mary Subialka
Rainbow Potato Salad with Crispy Shallots I basically win every barbecue by bringing this potato salad. I know that backyard hangs aren’t necessarily competitions, and therefore you can’t really “win” a barbecue, but . . . let’s be honest, I do. And if this becomes your go-to side dish, you will win, too! It is a huge hit, every time. Some potato salads are overly tossed in thick dressing, but in this dish each tender bite of potato is perfectly coated with a delicious combination of mayonnaise, buttermilk and whole-grain mustard. However, the real reason this salad wins at life (I’ve moved on from winning barbecues) is that it’s topped with crispy fried shallots. The crunchy texture complements the tender potatoes perfectly. In fact, I won’t be mad at you if you make too many and save the rest for snacking purposes. Winning! 2 pounds multicolored baby potatoes, halved 1⁄2 cup mayonnaise 1⁄4 cup chopped celery 2 tablespoons whole buttermilk 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon white vinegar 11⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt 3⁄4 teaspoon black pepper 1⁄4 teaspoon paprika 2 large hard-cooked eggs, peeled and chopped 2 shallots, thinly sliced crosswise 1⁄3 cup all-purpose flour 1⁄3 cup canola oil
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1. Bring a large stockpot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, and cook until fork-tender, about 12 minutes. Drain, and cool for 15 minutes. 2. Stir together the mayonnaise, celery, buttermilk, mustard, chives, vinegar, salt, pepper and paprika in a large bowl. Stir in the potatoes and chopped eggs, lightly smashing to break apart the potatoes. 3. Toss the shallots in flour, shaking off any excess. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Fry the shallots until golden brown and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Serve the shallots sprinkled over the potato salad.
AVOCADOS MAXIMLESHKOVICH - FOTOLIA.COM
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Crispy Chicken Paillard MAKES 4 SERVINGS
I swore I would never be a short-order cook. Nope, not me—my children would be those children that ate whatever I put in front of them without alterations or substitutions. Before I had kids, I was such a good mother! Now, in real life, with real kids, as much as I try to make one nightly meal, I’ve found it crucial to have a few go-to adaptable dishes. This recipe is perfect for both grownups and kids, which is why we make it so often. Boneless, skinless chicken breasts are pounded thinly, then lightly breaded and pan-fried to make crisp, juicy cutlets, and a refreshing, simple salad is served alongside. You can probably guess that my daughters love the chicken and skip “the green stuff” (carrots save my life), while the rest of us enjoy the arugula, tomato and avocado salad with crunchy pine nuts and a tangy Dijon dressing. It’s not complex, but the presentation is refined enough to be restaurant-worthy, making it great to serve to guests (even if your guests only like chicken and carrots).
1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour 3 large egg whites, lightly beaten 1 cup panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs) 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 (8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1⁄4 cup olive oil 11⁄2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 4 cups arugula leaves (about 4 ounces) 1 small tomato, chopped 1⁄2 ripe avocado, chopped 3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1. Place the flour in a shallow dish. Place the egg whites in a separate shallow dish. Combine the panko and 3⁄4 cup of the Parmesan in a separate shallow dish. 2. Slice each chicken breast in half crosswise to form 2 cutlets. Place each cutlet between 2 sheets of heavy-duty plastic wrap, and pound to an even thickness (about 1⁄2 inch thick). Sprinkle the cutlets with the pepper and 3⁄4 teaspoon of the salt. Working with 1 cutlet at a time, dredge in the flour, dip in the egg whites and dredge in the breadcrumb mixture, shaking the excess off after each dredge. 3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add 2 chicken cutlets to the skillet and cook until golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Remove from the skillet. Repeat the procedure with 1 tablespoon of the oil and the remaining chicken cutlets. 4. Whisk together the vinegar, mustard, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Add the arugula, and toss to coat. Sprinkle the arugula mixture with the tomato, avocado, pine nuts and remaining 1⁄4 cup Parmesan. Serve with the chicken. Editor’s Note: To toast pine nuts, place the nuts in a dry skillet over mediumlow heat. Stir frequently until golden in spots, about 3 minutes. Remove immediately to avoid scorching. Alternately, preheat oven to 375°F. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until goldenbrown, about 5 to 10 minutes.
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “SIRIOUSLY DELICOUS” BY SIRI DALY ©2018 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF TIME INC. BOOKS. RECIPE IMAGES COURTESY OF TIME INC. BOOKS/TIME INC. FOOD STUDIOS.
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On a Roll With patience and practice, you will have the art of making ever-popular California rolls wrapped up BY JASON ROSS
t’s amazing how popular sushi has become. What once was “scary” food has become a favorite, even for kids. And in some ways it all started with the California roll—crab, avocado and cucumber rolled up in a bed of vinegar-laden rice and crispy nori seaweed—one of the most popular sushi combinations. Instead of leaving sushi-making to the pros, you can make this simple sushi style at home. All it takes is a little practice and some ripe avocados. PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
Sushi Rice MAKES ENOUGH FOR 6 SUSHI ROLLS
For sushi, the rice is paramount. Use good short-grain sushi rice—its plump grains stick together in the rolls. 2 cups sushi rice 23/4 cups water plus more for rinsing ½ cup rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar (See Cook’s Note) 2 teaspoons salt 1. Wash the rice with some fresh water in a medium sized mixing bowl. Mix rice and water with your hands for a few seconds. The rice will release starch as you mix, making the water cloudy. Dump out cloudy water, using a fine mesh strainer, or by pouring slowly, so water spills out and rice is left behind in the bowl. Repeat this process 3 to 4 times with fresh water until the water runs clear and stops releasing starch. 2. Put rice into fine mesh strainer and allow it to drip and dry at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes. 3. Put washed rice and measured water into a medium pot with tight-fitting lid. Bring water to a boil on medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. While rice is cooking, combine rice wine vinegar, sugar and salt in a microwave-safe bowl, and heat until sugar and salt dissolve, stirring a few times with spoon. Chill seasoned vinegar in refrigerator. 4. After 15 minutes, turn off heat and let rice sit, covered, for another 10 minutes. 5. Use wood spoon or rice paddle to transfer rice to a large wooden salad bowl or stainless or glass bowl. 6. Drizzle the cooled rice vinegar onto the rice. Use rice paddle or wooden spoon to coat rice with vinegar. Use a cutting motion with the spoon, similar to folding, avoiding breaking or mashing the rice. Continue until rice is fully coated, and seasoned, and cooled to room temperature. Store in bowl covered with damp towel for up to 2 hours, or use immediately to make sushi. Do not refrigerate. Cook’s Note: Skip the sugar and salt if using “seasoned rice vinegar” as the sugar and salt are already added.
TIP: As tempting as it might be, do not refriger-
ate California sushi rolls or cooked sushi rice. The starch hardens and gets crunchy instead of soft and chewy. Plan to serve immediately, or if needed, store wrapped for a couple hours at room temperature.
CALIFORNIA ROLLS (RIGHT) AND THE SPICY CRAB VARIATION (LEFT)
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MAKES 6 SERVINGS (6 ROLLS)
Here is a simplified California roll for the beginner. Many restaurants will serve this roll made “inside-out” with the rice on the outside, the seaweed on the inside, and garnished with either sesame seeds or fish roe called tobiko. This easier version uses seaweed on the outside as a wrapper like a large edible cigar. 6 sheets nori seaweed 1 cup water mixed with 1 teaspoon sushi rice in small cup or container about 6 cups cooked, seasoned and cooled sushi rice (see recipe left) 10 pieces crab stick (imitation crab) torn into strips or roughly chopped 1 English cucumber, deseeded and cut into strip 4 inches long and ¼ inch squared 1 avocado, peeled and cut into ¼ slices ¼ cup soy sauce for dipping ¼ cup pickled ginger, for garnish 2 tablespoons prepared wasabi, for garnish
Spicy Crab Filling Variation: For a twist, try a spicy crab salad as the filling. In a medium mixing bowl, using a wooden spoon, combine 12 ounces lump crab, 2 tablespoons mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and a pinch of salt until fully incorporated. Use the rolling technique listed left to make rolls with crab salad as the filling. The salad filling can be made ahead of time and stored in a covered container for up to 4 days in the refrigerator. Makes filling for 6 servings (6 rolls).
1. Cover bamboo sushi mat with plastic wrap to keep it clean and prevent rice from sticking to it. (If you do not have a bamboo mat, try using only a sheet of plastic wrap to roll.) 2. Lay wrapped mat on counter, and place one piece of nori on mat with shiny side facing down, which puts it on the outside of the finished roll. 3. Dip your hand into vinegar water to moisten and grab about 1 cup sushi rice. Handle rice gently, and without compressing, try forming it into a loose ball. 4. Using fingertips, spread rice evenly onto nori. Cover nori in thin layer, leaving ¼ strip of nori, on far edge, uncovered. The uncovered strip of nori will be used to seal the sushi roll. Make sure the nori is lined up with edge of mat and the uncovered strip farthest from you. 5. Assemble ingredients: Lay 3 to 4 slices of avocado in single layer across the center of rice. Next, lay on a few pieces of crab, and then 6 to 8 pieces of cucumber. Avoid too much filling—keep fillings light and the rolling will be easier. 6. Use the sushi mat to roll the rice over the fillings until the rolled rice comes to the edge of the uncovered strip of nori. Squeeze the mat gently to form an even roll. Pull back the sushi mat, leaving a sushi roll with a thin strip of uncovered nori. Roll the sushi over with your hands to finish, and seal the roll by pressing down the strip of nori. Use the mat again to give the roll another gentle squeeze. Place finished roll on platter or cutting board with the seam down. The moisture from the rice will help form a better seal after it sits for a few minutes. Continue procedure with remaining ingredients. 7. Sushi rolls can be stored covered in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 2 hours. Do not refrigerate. 8. To cut, dip your longest, thinnest, and sharpest knife into vinegar water, allowing a thin bead to drip down edge of blade. This will moisten and “lubricate” the blade, making it easier to cut through sushi rolls without tearing. (The next time you are at a sushi bar, check out the sushi chef—they dip their knives with nearly every cut.) 9. Cut sushi roll in half using long slicing motion. Line up the cut pieces and cut them into quarters for 8 pieces of sushi. Repeat process cutting all the rolls into 8 pieces each. 10. Serve sushi with soy sauce for dipping, little piles of pickled ginger and wasabi for those that would like the sushi to have a little bite.
CALIFORNIA ROLLS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 396 (41 from fat); FAT 5g (sat. 1g); CHOL 21mg; SODIUM 2003mg; CARB 69g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 18g
SPICY CRAB ROLLS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 361 (41 from fat); FAT 5g (sat. 1g); CHOL 57mg; SODIUM 1743mg; CARB 61g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 16g
summer 2018 real food 7
Robin Asbell spreads the
word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is “300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix.” She is also the author of “Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious”; The New Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”
Lara Miklasevics began her
food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.
Bruce Aidells founded Aidells
Sausage Company in California in 1983. He left the company in 2002 to pursue food writing. A regular contributor to Eating Well and Fine Cooking, he has also shared his expertise on meat cookery in several cookbooks, including “The Complete Meat Cookbook” and his latest, “The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today’s Meat.” He is a host of “Good Cookin’ with Bruce Aidells” on livewellnetwork.com and invites you to join him on his Facebook page, Bruce Aidells, America’s Meat Guru.
Terry Brennan is a
Molly Stevens is an award-
winning cookbook author and cooking teacher. Her two cookbooks, “All About Roasting” and “All About Braising” both earned James Beard Awards and IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) awards. Her recipes and tips have appeared in Fine Cooking, The Wall Street Journal, Everyday with Rachel Ray, Real Simple, Bon Appétit, Saveur and other publications. Classically trained as a chef in France, Stevens has directed programs and taught at the French Culinary Institute, New England Culinary Institute and L’Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Burgundy, France and Venice, Italy. Stevens continues to travel and teach cooking classes across the country. She lives near Burlington, Vermont.
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Minneapolis-based photographer whose commercial and editorial work can be seen across the country. His clients include Target, Hormel, Land O’Lakes, General Mills and United Health Care. “Editorial photography is my passion and working closely with Real Food is always a highlight.”
Jason Ross is a culinary
instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.
Leah Vanderveldt is ex-food
editor at the health and wellness website, MindBodyGreen, where she has written and developed wholefood recipes and edited content about nutrition, health and cultivating a positive relationship with food. She is the author of “The New Nourishing” cookbook and has worked for Vogue and Vanity Fair in the United States as well as for the lifestyle and design magazine Home Beautiful in Australia. She is certified in culinary nutrition from the Natural Gourmet Institute in New York City and lives in Brooklyn with her husband.
Lunds & Byerlys welcome
Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 Woodbury: 651-999-1200
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Delivering on Quality In-Store and Online
ave you made an online purchase in the past year? I bet the vast majority of you would answer, “Yes.” Have you shopped for groceries online in the past year? For 23 percent of Americans the answer to that question is also, “Yes,” according to a study produced by Nielsen and the Food Marketing Institute titled “The Digitally Engaged Food Shopper.” In 2014, just 19 percent of shoppers had made a grocery purchase online. That 4 percent increase in the past four years is nothing compared to what the study projects will happen during the next five to seven years. An astounding 72 percent of shoppers surveyed said they expect to shop for groceries online within that timeframe. And it’s even higher for millennials as 80 percent of them will be grocery shopping online. Does that mean the in-store shopping experience will eventually be a thing of the past? Absolutely not. We firmly believe there will always be a need and desire for many to visit our stores, yet we also know it’s important for us to provide you with a digital experience that matches the sensational in-store shopping experience we strive to provide each and every day. We launched our online grocery shopping site more than 10 years ago, and we have continued to enhance and refine every aspect of the experience. This includes providing you with many of the same differentiated, high-quality items online as you’ll find in our stores. We have nearly
30,000 products online, and your order isn’t fulfilled in a warehouse. Instead, it’s handselected by one of our personal shoppers who is shopping right in our stores. We are continuously focused on expanding our product offerings, and one of our newest is L&B Meal Creations. These are chef-crafted meal kits featuring exclusive recipes that serve two and allow you to prepare a home-cooked meal in 40 minutes or less. Our meal kits are currently available at a handful of our stores. They are also available for delivery throughout the Twin Cities through our online shopping service. As demand for online shopping continues to grow, we will also be expanding our curbside pickup to six more stores, including our new White Bear Lake store that is expected to open later this fall. If, like my family, you find yourself needing a great timesaver every now and again, I would encourage you to give our online shopping service a try. You can learn more about it on pages 10-11. Whether you shop with us in our stores or online, we always look forward to the opportunity to serve you! Sincerely,
Tres Lund President and CEO
FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400
REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663
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Groceries in a Snap Convenient and timesaving online shopping brings you the same great products you love
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Lunds & Byerlys online shopping
ay-to-day life can be hectic, and often picking up a gallon of milk or ingredients for dinner means an extra stop in an already packed schedule. That’s where we come in! Lunds & Byerlys online shopping will fill up your fridge in no time. For more than 10 years, Lunds & Byerlys online shopping has been a convenient, hassle-free way to get the same great products you know and love delivered to your door or ready for you to pick up at one of our stores. In 2016 we debuted a new online shopping platform that we continue to expand as more and more of us look for timesaving ways to quickly get groceries. Our fully integrated online shopping experience allows you to start your online order on our desktop site and finish it on your mobile phone or app. This provides a consistent and convenient way for you to order groceries from wherever you are. The online shopping site also features personalization across the entire shopping experience. This means at every step of the shopping journey—from the homepage to product collections and product recommendations—the platform will display the most relevant items for each shopper based on their individual purchase history and ongoing transactions. Our new L&B Extras program allows you to track past purchases you’ve made both in our stores and online so you can quickly and easily reorder items or an entire shopping list. And, you’re able to save even more when you shop online by using digital coupons and L&B Extras offers. All it takes is a quick click to “clip” coupons to your account so you can redeem them at checkout. Once you place an order, your work is done. Personal shoppers in our stores hand-select your order to ensure you receive the freshest items available. Then our delivery drivers bring your groceries directly to the front door of your Twin Citiesarea home or business. Or, if it’s more convenient, you can opt for curbside pickup at our Burnsville, Chanhassen, Eagan, Eden Prairie, France Avenue Edina, Maple Grove, Ridgedale, Roseville, St. Cloud, St. Louis Park and Woodbury stores. And later this year, we’ll be adding curbside pickup to Golden Valley, Highland Park, Plymouth, Richfield, Uptown Minneapolis and our new store in White Bear Lake. We strive to provide a unique shopping experience for every single customer, and we’re confident our online shopping platform will help us provide that experience to you. Visit Shop.LundsandByerlys.com to try our online shopping site today.
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11
Lunds & Byerlys
Lunds & Byerlys Extras is a new way to get the most out of your grocery shopping experience. Special offers just for Extras members Tools to make shopping easier (lists, receipts, price alerts and more) Easily accessible from your smartphone First to know about new products and promotions
Sign up at LandB.mn/Extras or text EXTRAS to 55955* *Msg & data rates may apply.T&C/Privacy: http://bit.ly/1KfDUyv
Sign up for Extras on our website or in our app 12 real food summer 2018
When you check out at the store, use your personalized Extras barcode or phone number.
Extras offers and coupons are applied to your total
L&B Spice Blends Clip-and-Keep Guide
SOURCE: LUNDS & BYERLYS
Lunds & Byerlys
This barbecue seasoning marries spicy, smoky flavors with just a touch of sugar for an incredibly bold BBQ taste.
Season all cuts of beef, especially ribs or rib-eye steaks. Try it as a rib rub.
Traditional Bloody Mary flavors such as Worcestershire sauce, horseradish and celery mingle in this spicy blend.
For a fun twist, use it to dust the rim of your cocktail glass. Stir into Bloody Marys. Also delicious in cold gazpacho soups.
Signature Corn on the Cob
Hickory smoked salt, sugar, pepper and onion come together for a slightly sweet corn topper.
Sprinkle on corn, grilled vegetables or potatoes. For out-of-this-world corn, sprinkle on hot buttered sweet corn.
Classic guac ingredients including cilantro and lemon are melded with sun-dried tomato and cumin to create a bright flavor.
Simply add 1 tablespoon for every mashed avocado, plus lime juice and salt to taste.
This blend is infused with smoky-sweet flavor that comes from hickory smoked salt, smoked paprika and a touch of sugar and fennel.
Season all cuts of pork. It adds an incredible flavor boost to pork tacos or pulled pork sandwiches.
Herbs, onion and salt create a base to enhance the flavor of roasted green veggies and potatoes.
Sprinkle on potatoes and roasted vegetables.
This versatile blend of pepper flakes with a touch of cocoa powder and salt combines with cumin, ancho, chipotle and bell peppers for unique, deep flavor.
The change-up your taco night needs! Mix with pork, chicken, beef or fish. Or stir into chili or queso dip.
Tequila Lime Shrimp
The citrusy taste of lime and orange combine with ginger and tequila for a bright, refreshing pop of flavor.
Season shrimp or fish. Itâ€™s delicious on shrimp or fish tacos.
Lunds & Byerlys
whatâ€™s in store
BONNE MAMAN INTENSE SPREADS Bonne Maman Intense Spreads are made with significantly less sugar than regular preserves and are packed with even more fruit pieces. The homemade-tasting preserves feature natural ingredients and come in three delicious flavors: blueberry, strawberry and apricot.
Tip: Bonne Maman fruit spreads are delicious slathered on toast and baked goods. They are also wonderful melded into glazes to serve with your favorite protein, layered into fruit parfaits or whisked into a salad dressing.
MONTANA MEX SAUCES & SEASONING BLENDS Montana Mex is a clean-label condiment brand that helps you eat well. All Montana Mex sauces and seasonings are chemical free and full of bold flavor. The organic and nonGMO sauces and seasonings allow you to easily add healthy flavor to your food from pan to plate.
Did you know? In 2011 Montana Mex co-founder and chef Eduardo Garcia was injured and became an amputee. As a result, Montana Mex partnered with the Challenged Athletes Foundation and now donates 5 percent of profits to the organization.
BELLUCCI ORGANIC EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Bellucci Legendary Series Toscano Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil is crafted predominantly from Frantoio, Moradiolo and Leccino olives that are organically cultivated in small family groves in rural Tuscany. Rich with the aroma of fresh olive fruit and a savory hint of artichoke, this Tuscan olive oil is legendary for its flavor.
Tip: Like fruits and veggies, the exceptional flavors and health-giving properties of olive oil are best when fresh. Store your bottle away from heat and light.
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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store
CELSIUS FITNESS DRINKS Celsius is a line of fitness drinks that makes the perfect addition to an active lifestyle. Each can is loaded with vitamins and good-for-you ingredients such as green tea and ginger, which work together to raise metabolism and provide healthy energy. Plus, they’re made without artificial preservatives, flavors and high-fructose corn syrup.
Did you know? Celsius is an ideal pre-workout drink and also serves as a refreshing alternative to coffee and other caffeinated beverages.
SAUER FRAU SQUEEZABLE KRAUTS Sauer Frau was born after founder Tracy Lundberg ordered a brat with sauerkraut at a baseball game and was appalled at the condition of the kraut that sat stagnant at the concession stand. Not long after, the squeezable kraut was born! This mess-free option is made without added sugar and comes in three flavors: classic, craft beer mustard and mildly sweet Bavarian.
Tip: Sauer Frau Squeezable Kraut is the perfect addition to your cookouts,
L&B GELATO PINTS AND A.G. FERRARI BISCOTTI Our L&B Artisan Gelato offers a taste of Italy in a perfectly portioned pint-sized package ideal for sharing or indulging in by yourself. The deliciously smooth and creamy gelato is made with equipment and ingredients imported directly from Italy, which results in an incredibly authentic gelato bursting with intense flavor. Varieties include white chocolate raspberry, peanut butter chocolate, caramel cookie crunch, toasted coconut, mint chocolate, double dark chocolate and caramel sea salt. Want a truly Italian treat? Pair our gelato with A.G. Ferrari Biscotti. These crunchy, airy and not-too-sweet cookies are the perfect balance to a scoop of sweet, creamy gelato. A.G. Ferrari makes their biscotti in Florence from a family recipe that dates back nearly 100 years. Try both flavors: Tuscan almond and chocolate chip.
Did you know? Italians traditionally enjoy biscotti at the end of a meal with a glass of sweet wine or espresso, but it’s also wonderful dipped in brandy or used in pie crust.
picnics and tailgates.
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15
RAISE THE BAR
House your favorite wines while chilling beverages and hors d’oeuvres each at its ideal temperature in KitchenAid’s stylish stainless steel beverage center. Interior lights illuminate when approached so items can be seen without opening the door. Warners’ Stellian’s knowledgable Appliance Specialists also make it simple to find exactly what you’re looking for.
COON RAPIDS APPLE VALLEY
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Aquafaba Fabulous A vegan’s dream come true and a pretty cool all-natural egg white substitute for everyone else BY LIANNA MATT
PHOTO LPICTURES - FOTOLIA.COM
on’t discard your garbanzo bean liquid; you could be throwing away your new favorite ingredient: aquafaba. Aquafaba literally means water (aqua) bean (faba), and it is most commonly used as a natural and simple egg substitute. The unique combination of proteins and water that make up the egg’s binding abilities is mimicked almost perfectly in aquafaba, resulting in an ever-growing recipe library of mayonnaise, breads, macarons, cakes, “cheeses,” cocktails and more. While any bean can give you aquafaba—even packaged tofu or peas, which aren’t even beans—the common pick are garbanzos, also known as chickpeas, because of the superior whipped peaks you can create as well as the lack of bean flavor in the liquid. You can get aquafaba from a can of garbanzos or by cooking dried beans yourself to get the liquid. Using a can is easy—all you have to do is strain the liquid from the beans, although shaking or mixing the contents of the can first can ensure the starches floating in the liquid are evenly distributed. If you want to get aquafaba by cooking the garbanzos yourself, keep in mind you may have to reduce the liquid to get the desired consistency of an egg white. Similar to egg whites, adding cream of tartar to the aquafaba can help create and maintain stiff peaks, and adding sugar will get that gloss and sweetness for meringues. Although you can hand whisk for foam, emulsifiers, electric mixers or standing mixers are recommended for really getting the air bubbles into the liquid, a process that can take up to 15 minutes. When you work with the raw, uncooked aquafaba, it may still smell like garbanzo beans, but once you bake it, the aroma and taste are eliminated. Although people have been toying with artificial and plant-based egg substitutes for years—and people have been cultivating garbanzo beans for more than 5,000 years—the real discovery of aquafaba began with two events in February 2015. The first was a YouTube video by two French foodies that showed them using a whole can of garbanzo beans for two different dishes: The beans were used for hummus, and more interestingly, the liquid from the can was whipped into a foam for a chocolate mousse. The second was when vegan and software engineer Goose Wohlt saw the video from his home in Indiana and used it as inspiration to make a vegan meringue that consisted of only aquafaba and sugar. He posted his results in a popular vegan Facebook
group, What Vegans Eat, and the world latched on and began experimenting. So the next time you are using garbanzo beans in a recipe, don’t pour the liquid down the sink. Instead, use it for your next culinary creation. The aquafaba will keep in the fridge for about a week, and you can also freeze it. Without whipping it, it acts as an egg binder for foods such as cookies, whereas whipping it is perfect for fluffy waffles, desserts and more. To celebrate how aquafaba got its start, try your hand at the meringue that inspired a food revolution or whip up a little chocolate mousse.
Easiest Eggless Meringue with Aquafaba MAKES 2 TO 3 CUPS, RECIPE COURTESY OF PETA
liquid from 2 (15-ounce) cans garbanzo beans ½ teaspoon cream of tartar 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 cup white sugar (finely ground is best) 1. Preheat oven to 200°F. Combine all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. 2. Blend with a stand or hand mixer on high speed for 12 to 15 minutes, or until stiff peaks form. 3. Put the meringue in a pastry tube and pipe into 1-inch coils. 4. Bake in oven for 1½ hours or until crisp. For Vegan Chocolate Mousse: To make 2 to 3 cups of PETA’s Super-Easy Chocolate Mousse from aquafaba, use the uncooked meringue and fold in 6 ounces of melted vegan dark chocolate, and then transfer to a serving dish and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before enjoying.
summer 2018 real food 17
Practical pointers for a road to a heart-healthy lifestyle BY MARY SUBIALKA
healthy diet and lifestyle are your best weapons to fight cardiovascular disease, according to the American Heart Association. It sounds easy enough— just eat healthy and exercise. But when faced with making choices in your daily routine to either select or avoid certain foods, some practical pointers can make all the difference. That’s where the experts who work with the association can help. In general, you are supposed to use up at least as many calories as you take in and eat a variety of nutritious foods from all the food groups—and less of the nutrient-poor foods. Replacing bad fats (saturated and trans) with healthier fats (monounsaturated and polyunsaturated) is better for your heart. Also watch overdoing sodium intake. Intellectually we know all this. Here are some practical pointers to work on actually putting some of those basics into action as well as a couple heart-healthy recipes to try for lunch or dinner and a cool summer treat.
CUT BACK ON SALT WITHOUT THE CRAVINGS In addition to making healthy food choices, the amount of sodium in or on them is important. The daily amount of sodium recommended by the American Heart Association is 1,500 mg for most adults, yet many consume more than double that. Devin Alexander, Chef for NBC’s “The Biggest Loser” and author, lends her voice on topics such as this for the association.
18 real food summer 2018
“It’s no mystery that salt can help boost a dish from average to amazing and can give your potato a little zing,” she says, “but it can also slowly spike your blood pressure and put stress on your heart. The good news is that there are plenty of ways to cut back on salt without sacrificing that ‘crave’ factor.” Alexander says that depending on where you add salt in a dish, you need less to experience the same flavor sensation. “For instance, when I make my Sweet Potato No Skins from the ‘Biggest Loser Quick and Easy Cookbook,’ I salt only the bottom of the potato rounds. Because the salt will hit your tongue directly, it will have a stronger flavor than if you divided the salt between the tops and the bottoms.” She also suggests buying salt-free seasoning blends and adding just a touch of salt so you can control the amount. Also try sea salt. On average, people tend to use less sea salt versus table salt because the larger flakes allow for space to be caught in the teaspoon. Rely on herbs rather than salt to season vegetables and leaner meats—cumin and cayenne will add smokiness and zing, while fresh basil packs a punch. If you like a little heat, red pepper flakes can really liven things up. Plus, citrus can be an amazing aid in jazzing up your meats and vegetables, while limes are great for Mexican fare. When we make resolutions to eat better, hit the gym, etc., we often try to go all out and therefore, get burnt out, says Alexander. Habits take some time to change. Start scaling back your salt intake a little at a time. Once your body is used to less, scale back a little more. Pretty soon the amount of salt you used to put on your vegetables will seem unnecessary.
Half-cup Habit: Add 1/2 cup of any kind of bean or lentil once a day to bump up the protein, fiber and nutrients. It’s easy to rinse and add beans or lentils to a salad; stir into a soup, stew or stir-fry; or add as a side. Add Color: Adding even one serving of color in the form of fruits or vegetables each day is a great way to start building a healthier body. It’s often more motivating to focus on what you can “add” to your plate rather than what you should leave out. Insta Salad: Keep a “salad bar” in your refrigerator for quick, easy and healthful lunches made in a pinch. The trick is to keep them in clear containers so you know what you have on hand, and remember to use them. Excellent ideas are: sliced bell peppers, chopped English cucumbers, black beans, hardboiled eggs, fresh cauliflower florets, shredded chicken, chopped tomatoes, and feta cheese. Prep a Protein: At the beginning of the week prepare hardboiled and shelled eggs, shredded crockpot chicken, batch-cooked extra-lean ground beef or a pot full of quinoa that you can easily and quickly pair with plants to help you eat smart on the go. Spice it Up: A new study found that people who enjoy spicy foods appear to eat less salt and have lower blood pressure.
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Take it to Heart
Annessa Chumbley, a registered dietitian and spokesperson for the American Heart Association Healthy For Good offers these practical pointers:
Frozen Yogurt Bark MAKES 8 SERVINGS
This frozen yogurt bark studded with fruit is a fun treat for kids and adults alike. Just note to eat it as soon as pieces are removed from the freezer as it melts in about 15 minutes. The same amount of maple syrup or simple syrup can also be used in place of honey, and most fruits can be used from diced peaches in summer to pomegranate seeds in the fall.
Chipotle Chicken Bowls with Cilantro-Lime Quinoa MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This makes for a substantial dinner or even an easily transported work lunch. Also note that the chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours. 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 pound boneless, skinless, thinly sliced chicken breast 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 (5-ounce) packaged spinach, spring greens, or arugula 1 pint cherry tomatoes (halved if desired) For the Chicken and Bowl 1 avocado (peeled, diced) 2 tablespoons canola oil (divided) 1 cup packaged, shredded carrots 1 minced chipotle pepper (or 2 large carrots, shredded) (+ 3 tablespoons adobo sauce 1 cup sliced radishes from a can of chipotles in adobo) 2 scallions or green onions (finely 1 tablespoon honey chopped) 1/8 teaspoon salt For the Cilantro-Lime Quinoa 11/2 cups water 3/4 cups quinoa 1/8 teaspoon salt 2 limes, zested and juiced 11/2 cups chopped, fresh cilantro
1. For the Cilantro-Lime Quinoa: In a medium heavy-duty pot, add water, quinoa and salt. Bring to a boil; cover and reduce heat to low. Cook until quinoa absorbs all the liquid, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat. 2. Into the quinoa, stir in the zest and juice of 2 limes and chopped cilantro. 3. For the Chicken and Bowl: Into a large zip-top bag, add marinade ingredients: 2 tablespoons canola oil, minced chipotle pepper, adobe sauce, honey, salt and pepper. Add chicken breasts into the bag, making sure the chicken is well coated with marinade. Let sit for 10 minutes (make the quinoa as you wait) or place chicken in the refrigerator to marinate for up to 24 hours. 4. In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, warm remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add chicken breasts and marinade liquid, using tongs to frequently turn the chicken breasts to be coated in marinade. Sauté until chicken is fully cooked, around 4 to 6 minutes depending on thickness. Remove from heat. When chicken has cooled slightly, transfer chicken to cutting board to chop into bite-size pieces. Then, transfer remaining liquid from pan into a small bowl; stir vinegar into the liquid to use as a dressing. 5. To assemble, add the greens into the bottom of each bowl. Divide quinoa and chicken among each bowl, along with tomatoes, avocado, carrots, radishes and scallions. Drizzle with the dressing and serve. CHIPOTLE CHICKEN BOWLS W. QUINOA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 480; FAT 21g (sat. 3g); CHOL 73mg; SODIUM 559mg; CARB 44g; FIBER 10g; PROTEIN 32g
FROZEN YOGURT BARK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 70; FAT 2g (sat. 1g); CHOL 3mg; SODIUM 15mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g
In a medium bowl, add 11/2 cups 2 percent low-fat plain Greek yogurt yogurt and 2 tablespoons honey. Mix together to combine. / Line a 9 x 13-inch baking dish with parchment paper. Use a spatula or knife to spread the yogurt as thin as possible over the entire bottom of the dish. / Add 2 tablespoons chopped, unsalted almonds over the top of the yogurt. Use your fingers to slightly press them into the yogurt. / Peel a mango, cutting the slices around the pit. Finely chop the mango, along with the berries, if they are larger than bite-sized. Top the yogurt with 1/2 cup chopped mango, 1/4 cup blackberries or raspberries, and 1/2 cup blueberries—add as much fruit as will fit over the top. Again, slightly press fruit into the yogurt. Cover with plastic wrap or foil and place in the freezer overnight. / When ready to serve, lift the parchment paper from the baking dish onto a cutting board. Use your hands to break bark apart into pieces (even by slightly banging the bark onto the cutting board). Serve. Keep remaining pieces wrapped in parchment paper and sealed in a large Ziploc bag in the freezer for up to 1 month.
RECIPES AND PHOTOS © 2018 AMERICAN HEART ASSOCIATION HEALTHY FOR GOOD PROGRAM, HEART.ORG/HEALTHYFORGOOD
Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.
summer 2018 real food 19
Celebrate Summer Pasta Master the art of the quick pasta meal and add a snap of freshness to the table when produce is at its peak BY ROBIN ASBELL
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
s summer heats up, you’ll probably find yourself craving easy meals with a
Summer Penne Primavera with Grilled Vegetables
sparkle of color and snap of freshness that are
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
perfect for a quick meal or a night with friends.
This dish is a rainbow of fresh summer veggies, all gilded with sparkling lemon and fresh herbs. Once you fire up the grill to cook the veggies for this pasta, the dish will be ready in minutes, and the hint of char will add wonderful depth and texture to the veggies. Serve the dish as a warm, creamy pasta or as a cold pasta salad.
That’s where light, fast pasta dishes that make the most of the bountiful produce come in. Fresh herbs and vegetables transform a bowl
of pasta into a celebration of the season, and a ASBELL 1 stem (about 8 ounces) broccoli, cut florets into BY ROBIN bite-sized pieces side salad rounds out the meal. Want more of a seasonal surprise? You can mix it up with some fruit, too. Orecchiette with Cantaloupe may sound surprising, but the sweet melon and the recipe’s crispy pancetta are a classic combination. And blueberries give chicken pasta a pop of sweet and tart. Minty Orzo Salad is a riff on tabbouleh, with grilled beef on top for a full one-dish meal. It’s not all about keeping it cool with these dishes—for a warm pasta, try the crab fettuccine. Using tangy crème fraîche as a sauce gives it a light coating of creaminess without making a separate, heavy white sauce. For even more fun, try colored pastas, and add pink, green and yellow hues to the dish. Just put a pot of water on to boil as soon as you walk into the kitchen, and you are on your way to pasta perfection.
SUMMER PENNE PRIMAVERA WITH GRILLED VEGETABLES
1/2 bunch (about 8 ounces) asparagus, cut into 2-inch pieces 4 ounces fresh mushrooms, quartered 1 medium zucchini, sliced on a diagonal 1 cup grape tomatoes, halved 1/2 pound penne pasta (21/2 cups cooked) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 2 cloves garlic, minced, to taste 11/2 teaspoons lemon zest 1/2 cup heavy cream (to serve warm), or 1/3 cup mayonnaise (to serve cold) 1/2 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup shredded Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped
1. Preheat the grill for the vegetables, or prepare a grill pan. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta. Cook pasta according to package directions, about 12 minutes. 2. Prep the vegetables and place in a large bowl, and toss in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Use a grill wok or mat to place the veggies on the grill and cook until marked but still crisp-tender. 3. To serve warm: About 5 minutes before pasta will be done, warm the remaining olive oil in a large sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the garlic and lemon zest, and stir for 1 minute, just until fragrant. Add the cream and salt and bring to a boil, and then boil for about 2 minutes to thicken the sauce. Add the drained pasta and grilled vegetables to the sauté pan with the cream, and toss to coat. Sprinkle the Parmesan cheese over the hot pasta and, over low heat, turn the pasta until the cheese is melted and the sauce is clinging to the pasta. Serve sprinkled with fresh basil. 4. To serve cold: Stir the tablespoon of olive oil, garlic and lemon zest in a large bowl, add the mayonnaise and salt, and stir to mix. Add the cooked penne, Parmesan, grilled vegetables and basil, and toss to coat.
summer 2018 real food 21
Chicken and Blueberry Farfalle Salad
Minty Orzo Salad with Grilled Beef
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Beautiful bowties nestle among fresh mozzarella, crunchy walnuts, tender chicken and juicy blueberries in this easy pasta salad. A little orange zest adds a fragrant fruitiness and a boost of flavor to the mix.
The flavors of Middle Eastern favorites hummus and tabbouleh find a new home in pasta. Orzo cooks quickly and makes a great foil for the juicy grilled beef on top. Serve hummus and veggie dippers on the side for a delicious combination.
12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast (or 21/2 cups precooked, diced) salt and pepper, to taste olive or canola oil, as needed for cooking
For the Dressing 2 teaspoons fresh orange zest 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt
For the Dressing 1 cup parsley, packed 1 cup fresh mint leaves, packed 1 clove garlic, peeled 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon salt
8 ounces orzo (1½ cups cooked) 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained (See Editor’s Note)
8 ounces farfalle pasta (31/2 cups cooked) 1 cup fresh blueberries 8 ounces fresh mozzarella pearls, drained 2 large scallions, chopped 1/2 cup parsley, chopped 1/2 cup toasted walnuts, chopped (See Cook’s Notes)
1. Put a large pot of salted water on stove over high heat and bring to boil to cook the farfalle. 2. Place chicken on a cutting board and slice into bite-sized pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and drizzle with olive or canola oil; swirl to coat. Sprinkle the chicken into the hot pan and sear for 1 minute, and then stir. Stir and turn until cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Let cool. 3. In a small bowl, whisk the orange zest, orange juice, lemon juice, olive oil, Dijon mustard, sugar and salt. Reserve. 4. Cook the farfalle according to package directions, about 12 minutes, and then drain well, rinse with cool water and place in a large bowl. Add the chicken, blueberries, mozzarella, scallions, parsley and walnuts, and drizzle with the orange dressing. Toss to coat, and serve. Keep, tightly covered, for up to 3 days. Cook’s Notes: • This recipe is made even easier with precooked rotisserie chicken. Or, plan ahead when you are grilling dinner another day, and cook extra to have ready for a second meal of fresh pasta salad. • To toast walnuts on the stovetop, place a small sauté pan over medium-low heat, put the walnuts in the pan, and stir frequently for about 2 minutes—be careful not to burn. Transfer to a bowl, cool, and then chop.
22 real food summer 2018
1 medium cucumber, seeded and chopped 1 large heirloom tomato, chopped 1 medium green pepper, seeded and chopped 3 medium scallions, minced
1 pound steak olive oil for pan coarse salt, to taste 1. Put a large pot of salted water on stove over high heat and bring to boil to cook the orzo. 2. Chop the cucumber, tomato, pepper and scallions in small pieces and reserve. 3. For the dressing, mince parsley, mint and garlic in a food processor, add the lemon juice, and process, adding the olive oil gradually through the feed tube. Add pepper and salt and mix. 4. Cook the orzo according to package directions, about 9 minutes. When cooked, rinse well with cold water, drain and place in a large bowl. Add the vegetables and chickpeas and toss to mix. Drizzle with 2/3 of the dressing, reserving the rest for the beef. 5. Heat a grill pan or cast iron pan until hot, and then drizzle olive oil and sprinkle salt on the steaks before placing them, oil side down, in the pan. Sear for about 2 minutes, until browned and marked. Oil and salt the tops and flip. Cook for about 2 minutes again, depending on the thickness of the steaks. Place the cooked steak on a cutting board to cool for 5 minutes, and then slice thinly across the grain. Let the steaks come to room temperature to serve. 6. Spread the salad on a large platter or individual plates, place sliced beef on top, and drizzle with reserved dressing. Editor’s Note: Instead of discarding the chickpea liquid, try using as a vegan “egg.” See page 17.
CHICKEN AND BLUEBERRY FARFALLE SALAD
MINTY ORZO SALAD WITH GRILLED BEEF
summer 2018 real food 23
Orecchiette with Cantaloupe, Basil and Crispy Pancetta MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
If you think cantaloupe is only for fruit salads, prepare to wake up your taste buds with this combination of sweet, tart, savory and salty. Orecchiette, or “little ears,” are tender, small cup-shaped pasta. If you can’t find them, you can substitute medium shells.
1/2 medium cantaloupe (6 cups cubes) 2 small yellow squash, halved and sliced 2 cups fresh basil 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 pound orecchiette pasta 1 (3-ounce) package sliced pancetta, slivered 4 ounces aged Asiago cheese
1. Put a large pot of salted water on stove over high heat and bring to boil to cook the orecchiette. 2. Cube the cantaloupe, slice the squash, sliver the basil and place the ingredients in a large bowl. Measure the olive oil and drizzle 1 tablespoon of it into a large sauté pan for cooking the pancetta. 3. Put the remaining oil in a medium bowl and add the red wine vinegar, honey, salt and pepper, and whisk to combine. Set aside. 4. Cook the pasta according to the package directions, about 9 minutes, and then drain, rinse well with cool water, drain well and place in a large bowl. 5. Heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the slivered pancetta, stirring as it starts to sizzle. When the pancetta is crisp and browned, scrape the pancetta and oil into the large bowl. Whisk the dressing and pour over the pasta and toss to mix well. Top the pasta with shaved slices of Asiago and serve (see Cook’s Note).
Cook’s Note: To make pretty Asiago shavings, place the cheese on a cutting board and use a traditional handheld vegetable peeler to shave thin sheets of cheese from the block.
PENNE PRIMAVERA (WARM): PER SERVING: CALORIES 227 (156 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 8g); CHOL 38mg; SODIUM 507mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 10g
24 real food summer 2018
CHICKEN & FARFALLE SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 584 (258 from fat); FAT 30g (sat. 8g); CHOL 66mg; SODIUM 784mg; CARB 49g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 33g
ORZO SALAD W. BEEF: PER SERVING: CALORIES 616 (257 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 5g); CHOL 50mg; SODIUM 1044mg; CARB 58g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 32g
ORECCHIETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 877 (412 from fat); FAT 47g (sat. 14g); CHOL 39mg; SODIUM 1156mg; CARB 92g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 23g
CREAMY CRAB FETTUCCINE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 534 (232 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 12g); CHOL 147mg; SODIUM 848mg; CARB 56g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 19g
Creamy Crab Fettuccine with Dill MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Crème fraîche and tart lemon play up the sweetness of the succulent crab in this warm pasta dish. Fresh dill, a classic herb to accompany crab and other delicate seafood, lends a fresh, light, herbal flavor. 12 ounces fettuccine 8 ounces crab, drained (See Cook’s Note) 1 cup corn kernels 1 small carrot, fine julienne 2 cups fresh sugar snap peas 1 cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 scallions, slivered 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill 3/4 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Put a large pot of salted water on stove over high heat and bring to boil to cook the fettuccine. Pat the crab dry with paper towels and reserve. Prep the corn, carrot and peas, and place them in the colander to add to the pasta later. 2. In a medium bowl, stir the crème fraîche, olive oil, lemon juice, scallions, dill and salt. Cook the pasta according to package instructions, adding the corn, carrot and peas to the boiling water for the last minute, and then drain. Shake well; water will cling to the vegetables. Place the pasta back in the cooking pot and add the crème fraîche mixture and the crab. Stir over medium heat, melting the crème fraîche and heating the sauce. If there is any loose liquid in the bottom of the pot, continue stirring over medium heat until the sauce coats the pasta and the bottom of the pan is nearly dry. Serve immediately. Cook’s Note: If you are looking for a special meal, buy a King crab leg, cut the shell open with kitchen scissors to remove the meat, and use that for this pasta. To get 8 ounces of meat, you’ll need just under 1 pound of crab leg. If that’s not in your budget this week, look for refrigerated canned pasteurized crab, in the seafood section, for the best taste and texture.
PASTA POINTERS • Always use a large pot and plenty of water, and once it boils, salt it generously, about 2 tablespoons of coarse salt for 5 quarts of water. The pasta needs room to move in the water, and it will taste much better if it has absorbed some salt along with the water. • Let the water come to a full boil before adding the pasta to avoid soggy pasta. • Stir the pasta several times to make sure it isn’t sticking together and to help it cook evenly. • Set the timer 1 minute less than the package directs, and test the pasta. To tell if pasta is cooked “al dente,” scoop out a piece, blow on it so it doesn’t burn your mouth, and bite it. It should be tender enough to eat but still have firmness, not crunch. When cooking pasta to serve hot, don’t rinse—just drain thoroughly. • For chilled pasta dishes, the pasta should be completely cooked as it will become a little firmer when cold. When cooking pasta to serve cold, rinse briefly with cool water. This removes the surface starches that make it sticky.
summer 2018 real food 25
Fire and Spice Heat things up this grilling season with flavorful and delightful Asian flair BY BRUCE AIDELLS
ooking meat, seafood, fish and poultry over small fires has been a popular and fuel-efficient practice
throughout Asia for eons. Often the item to be grilled is first prepared with spices, marinades and rubs that take advantage of the large pantry of flavorful ingredients such as fish sauce, soy sauce, coconut, chilies, ginger and ground nuts as well as lemongrass and fresh turmeric. The recipes I share here are inspired by these Asian ingredients and are sure to spice up your summer grilling season to the delight of family and guests.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
26 real food spring 2018
summer 2018 real food 27
CHINESE-INSPIRED ORANGE BRINE PORK TENDERLOIN WITH ORANGE GLAZE AND CITRUS DIPPING SAUCE 28 real food summer 2018
Chinese-Inspired Orange Brine Pork Tenderloin with Orange Glaze and Citrus Dipping Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Since pork tenderloin is a very lean cut, brining will always improve it by firming up the texture and making the meat juicier. Plus, pork and orange are a perfect complement, so the brine also lends delicious flavor. I also include Chinese five-spice powder, ginger and soy. When grilling pork tenderloin, I like to butterfly them first so they pick up more flavor from the brine and cook quickly. Serve the pork with sweet potatoes roasted in their jackets and then seasoned with butter, honey, and a pinch of cinnamon and powdered ginger. If serving wine, you will need something that can stand up to the sweet and sour flavors of the dipping sauce, so a Riesling might work well. For a drier wine, serve Sauvignon Blanc but skip the dipping sauce. Freshly made lime Daiquiris would also pair nicely. For the Brine zest from 1/2 an orange 1 cup water 13/4 cups orange juice 1/4 cup lemon juice (I like Meyer Lemon but any lemon should do) 3 tablespoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder or 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seed 1 cup ice 1 large (11/2 to 13/4 pounds) or 2 small (3/4 pound each) pork tenderloins For the Asian Orange Glaze 1/4 cup orange marmalade 2 tablespoons orange juice 2 teaspoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons hoisin sauce 1 teaspoon minced ginger pinch Chinese five-spice powder or ground fennel seed 1. For the brine: Place orange zest in a small saucepan with the water. Bring to a boil. Cover and set aside in the freezer to cool for 15 minutes. Pour cooled mixture in a mixing bowl and add the remaining brine ingredients. Stir in the ice to cool the mixture to at least 45°F. 2. Butterfly the tenderloins by making a lengthwise cut down the center of the tenderloin, taking care not to cut all the way through to the opposite side. For a safe margin of error, allow about 1/2 inch from the edge. Spread out the tenderloin on a work surface and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap and gently pound the meat using the heel of your hand or a meat pounder. Pound to a thickness no less than 1/2 inch and no more than 3/4 inch. Place pork loin in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and pour the brine over the meat, making sure it is submerged. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 4 hours.
3. While the pork is in the refrigerator, make the Asian Orange Glaze by heating the marmalade and orange juice together in a small saucepan to soften the marmalade. Stir in the soy, hoisin sauce, ginger and a pinch of Chinese five-spice powder or ground fennel. Set aside. 4. Remove tenderloin from brine and discard brine. Pat dry. Heat a gas or charcoal grill to produce a medium-hot fire. Lightly oil the grill and lay over the tenderloin. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes; turn and grill another 2 to 3 minutes. Brush with the glaze and turn again and grill for 1 minute or more, until the glaze is shiny and beginning to darken. Repeat for the other side. The pork is done when it reaches an internal temperature of 135° to 140°F. Transfer the pork to a warm platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice crosswise into ½-inch wide slices. Serve with small bowls of the dipping sauce for each guest.
Citrus Dipping Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 cup orange juice 1/2 cup lemon juice 1/4 cup lime juice 2 teaspoons fresh grated ginger 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar or more to taste 1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce or more to taste 2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Combine the citrus juices, ginger and brown sugar in a small saucepan and boil for 5 minutes to concentrate the flavor. Stir in the Sriracha and fish sauce and continue to boil until it just becomes a light syrup. Taste and season with salt and pepper and add more Sriracha and brown sugar if desired. Set aside.
summer 2018 real food 29
GRILLED SHRIMP WITH A SOUTH ASIAN TAMARIND GLAZE AND WARM NOODLE SALAD
30 real food summer 2018
Grilled Shrimp with a South Asian Tamarind Glaze MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Tamarind is a sticky paste that adheres to seeds within the large pods of a Tamarind tree, which grows in warm tropical areas such as Southeast Asia, Mexico and the Caribbean. In Mexico, it is used to make a refreshing drink when combined with sugar. It is quite tart, yet it also has a rich, fruity flavor. If you cannot find tamarind, then you can use fresh cranberries cooked until soft and puréed (see Cook’s Notes). Serve the shrimp over warm rice noodles or thin Asian egg noodles (see recipe right) tossed with some of the glaze. Or you can simply serve the shrimp with plain cooked Jasmine rice. For drinks, serve with Asian beer, Gerwürztraminer or your favorite soda— I like this with ginger ale. For the Shrimp 1/2 cup kosher salt 11/2 pounds large shelled shrimp (20 count or larger) 20 1-inch cubes of fresh pineapple 1 medium large red onion or sweet onion, cut into 1-inch chunks For the Tamarind Glaze 2 tablespoons tamarind paste (See Cook’s Notes) 4 teaspoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc mam) (See Cook’s Notes) 2 teaspoons minced ginger 2 tablespoons minced green onions 2 teaspoons cornstarch suspended in 1/4 cup water 1. Pour 31/2 cups cold water into a mixing bowl and stir in salt until dissolved. Stir in 1 cup ice cubes to chill brine to 45°F or less. Add shrimp. Make sure they are covered with the brine and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Drain and discard brine. Wash shrimp and pat dry with paper towels. Thread onto skewers so the skewers are perpendicular to the length of the shrimp. The skewers should help to keep the shrimp secure (2 parallel skewers work better than one). Set shrimp skewers aside. 2. Thread alternating pieces of pineapple and onions onto skewers. Set aside. 3. Combine all the glaze ingredients except the cornstarch mixture in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer and stir in the cornstarch mixture and cook until the glaze thickens, about 15 seconds. Divide glaze in half and save one half for the warm noodle salad. Set both portions aside. 4. Build a charcoal or gas fire to provide medium-hot heat. With reserved glaze set aside for the skewers, brush each shrimp and pineapple/onion skewer. Place shrimp skewers and pineapple/onion skewers on grill and grill for 2 to 3 minutes. If the glaze begins to burn, move to an area of the grill that is less hot. Flip all the skewers and brush again with the glaze. Shrimp are done when pink and firm. Transfer shrimp skewers to a warm platter while you finish the pineapple/onion skewers and make the Warm Noodle Salad. Continue to turn and baste the pineapple/onion skewers. They are done when the onions are softened and the edges of the fruit and onions are slightly charred, about 10 minutes total.
Warm Noodle Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1/2 pound cooked thin rice noodles or thin Chinese egg noodles (follow instructions on package for cooking) 1/2 reserved Tamarind Glaze (see recipe left) 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves, for garnish 1. Toss noodles, reserved glaze, rice vinegar, sesame oil and green onions in a mixing bowl. Transfer noodles to a warm platter. Remove shrimp, pineapple and onion from the skewers and arrange over the noodles. If there is any remaining glaze, drizzle over the food. Garnish with the chopped mint and serve.
Cook’s Notes: • You may substitute any fish sauce if Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc mam) is not available. • If tamarind paste is not available, you can substitute cooked cranberry paste: Combine 1 tablespoon sugar with 1/4 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and add 3 ounces fresh cranberries. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring occasionally for 10 minutes. Purée mixture to form a paste.
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Thai Marinated Flat Iron Steak
Spicy Peanut Slaw
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Flat iron steak comes from the shoulder (chuck) end of the beef. It is the second-most tender muscle after the tenderloin and has a deep, beefy flavor that is well complemented by a strongly flavored marinade. This marinade is spicy but toned down a bit from typical Thai marinades. If hot and spicy is not your thing, then leave out the Sriracha chili sauce. The marinade gets many of its exotic flavors from the Thai green curry paste that is sold in the Asian section of the grocery store. The flavors and hotness of this paste vary by brand, so start with a little and add more to suit your taste. Serve the steak with a Spicy Peanut Slaw (recipe right) or a green mango salad. I like to serve Jasmine rice as well to help absorb some of the heat and round out the meal. Because of the higher acid and chili flavors of this marinade, I always serve it with cold beer rather than wine—my favorite being Singha from Thailand. Ice tea is also a good beverage, which can be spruced up with a little rum if you so choose.
1/2 medium green cabbage, about 11/2 pounds, cored and shredded 3 cups shredded Napa cabbage 2 carrots, shredded 6 green onions, thinly sliced 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/4 cup chunky natural peanut butter 2 tablespoons Asian sesame seed oil 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce, or more to taste 2 tablespoons lime juice plus more to taste salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup dry roasted peanuts
4 flat iron steaks (about 6 to 8 ounces each) For the Thai Marinade 2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (nan pla or nuoc nam) 1 teaspoon Thai green curry paste, or more to taste 3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons Sriracha sauce 2 teaspoons grated lime zest 3 tablespoons lime juice 3 tablespoons peanut oil 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sweet basil 1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro, stems and leaves 1 tablespoon minced ginger 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons chopped sweet basil, for garnish 1. Place steaks in a large zipper-lock bag. Combine marinade ingredients in a small bowl. Set 3 tablespoons of the marinade aside and pour the rest of the marinade over the meat and seal the bag. Marinate for at least 12 hours in the refrigerator or as long as 24 hours. Shake and turn the bag occasionally to redistribute the marinade. 2. Remove steaks from marinade and pat them dry. Discard the marinade. Grill steaks over medium-hot coals in a covered or uncovered barbecue or directly over the flame in a gas grill. Flat iron steaks are best cooked medium-rare to medium, which is an internal temperature range of 125° to 140°F. This should take about 4 to 6 minutes per side. For medium-rare, remove when steaks are about 120°F in the center when tested with an instant-read thermometer. For medium, the steak will take a little longer and register 130° to 135°F. Remove steaks and transfer to a warm platter to rest for 5 minutes before serving. Slice steaks into diagonal slices across the grain and arrange on a platter. Pour over the reserved marinade, garnish with the basil and serve at once. Cook’s Note: This marinade is also good with flank steaks, top round (often sold as London broil), sirloin steaks and skirt steak.
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1. Toss all the vegetables in a large bowl. In a separate, smaller bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients except the peanuts. Pour the dressing over the vegetables and toss until all the vegetables are well coated with the dressing. Taste for salt, pepper and additional lemon juice. 2. Place in a serving bowl, sprinkle the peanuts on top. Serve immediately or refrigerate up to 8 hours before serving. Any leftovers will keep, covered and refrigerated for 2 to 3 days.
THAI MARINATED FLAT IRON STEAK AND SPICY PEANUT SLAW
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INDONESIAN GRILLED CHICKEN WITH A SPICY PEANUT SAUCE AND MARINATED CUCUMBERS
34 real food summer 2018
Indonesian Grilled Chicken with a Spicy Peanut Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The cooking of Indonesia is bold and makes full use of chilies, coconut milk and ground nuts such as peanuts and ginko nuts in many dishes. A typical meal may consist of many small, flavorful dishes served with a mound of steamed rice, which is the main substance of the meal. In this recipe, I first flavor the chicken pieces with a spice paste made with a little chunky peanut butter. Serve the chicken with plenty of steamed Jasmine rice; I like to serve it with cucumbers marinated in sweet vinegar. (See recipe below.) For beverage pairings, I like to serve this chicken with ice-cold lager beer. Your favorite punch recipe would also go well. or the Lemongrass Spice Rub F 1 tablespoon tender inner leaves of lemongrass, finely chopped or 2 teaspoons freshly grated lime zest 2 teaspoons minced garlic 2 teaspoons minced ginger 2 teaspoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon chunky peanut butter 1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil 1 teaspoon dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons turmeric 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 pounds assorted chicken pieces (about four thighs and two breasts) For the Spicy Peanut Sauce 2 teaspoons peanut oil 1/2 cup finely chopped onion 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon minced ginger 1 teaspoon finely chopped lemongrass (tender inner leaves) or 1 teaspoon grated lime zest 1/2 cup coconut milk 1 tablespoon fish sauce 1 tablespoon ketchup 1 teaspoon light brown sugar 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or more to taste 1/4 cup chunky unsalted natural peanut butter 1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce, or more to taste water as needed salt, to taste
Marinated Cucumbers MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise and cut into 1/8-inch thick slices pinch of salt, or more to taste 1/4 cup rice vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste 1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves (optional)
1. Combine all the spice rub ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to blend, creating a paste. 2. Rub the paste all over the chicken pieces and arrange on a
PORK TENDERLOIN W. SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 372 (72 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 2g); CHOL 103mg; SODIUM 1668mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 40g
GRILLED SHRIMP W. GLAZE & NOODLE SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 328 (66 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 235mg; SODIUM 1275mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 32g
plate or sheet pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 8 hours so the flavors soak in, or proceed with the recipe if time does not allow. 3. While the chicken is marinating, make the peanut sauce by heating a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the oil and onions. Cover and cook until the onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir occasionally. Stir in the garlic, ginger and lemongrass and cook an additional 2 minutes. Add remaining sauce ingredients and cook and stir until well blended. The mixture should be thin enough to just nicely coat a spoonâ€”if mixture is too thick, stir in water as needed. Adjust sauce to your taste by adding more lime juice, sugar, Sriracha sauce and salt. Set aside. 4. Heat one side of a gas or charcoal grill to produce a medium-hot fire. Scatter chicken pieces over the heat, skin side down. Cover the grill and sear for 2 to 4 minutes until the chicken is nicely brown. Turn and cook the other side for the same time or until it begins to brown. If the grill starts to flare up, immediately move the chicken to the part of the grill that has no fire so the chicken does not burn. When all the pieces have been nicely seared, space them over the unlit side of the grill. Cover and cook for about 30 to 40 minutes or until the area near the bone is no longer red. Breasts will take less time than legs and thighs. 5. When chicken is done, arrange the pieces on a warm serving platter. Gently reheat the peanut sauce and spoon over the chicken. Serve with the marinated cucumbers and rice.
1. Stir the cucumber with the salt, vinegar and sugar. Stir in the optional cilantro. Taste and add more sugar and salt if desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve. î Ž
FLAT IRON STEAK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 355 (206 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 8g); CHOL 93mg; SODIUM 796mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 32g
SPICY PEANUT SLAW: PER SERVING: CALORIES 312 (235 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 4g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 232mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 6g
CHICKEN W. PEANUT SAUCE & MARINATED CUCUMBERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 604 (338 from fat); FAT 39g (sat. 12g); CHOL 130mg; SODIUM 1454mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 48g
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Culinary Road Trip Take a cross-country tour of regionally inspired American dishes BY MOLLY STEVENS
BUTTERMILK AND BLACK PEPPER OVEN-FRIED CHICKEN (RECIPE PAGE 41) 36 real food spring 2018
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
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hat better way to celebrate summer than by taking a culinary road trip? Since the earliest days, ingenious and resourceful cooks have made the most of the wealth of local ingredients available, and now there’s no end of
good things to cook and savor in each region of this vast country. The following recipes take their inspiration from the craggy coastline of New England to the rich culinary heritage of the South, from the breadbasket of the Midwest to the sunny farmland of California and the wild fecundity of the Pacific Northwest. If you have been dreaming of that crosscountry road trip but can’t find the time—or simply don’t want to spend all those hours in the car—here is a way to embark on an exciting and delicious adventure without leaving your kitchen.
Grilled Steak, Bell Pepper and Onion Skewers with Avocado Crema MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Color, crunch, freshness, lushness and big flavor: These skewers bring a dose of California sunshine to any table. Serve them on a bed of rice or couscous and pass a fresh green salad at the table. 11/2 pounds flank or tri-tip steak, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to drizzle 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 2 medium garlic cloves, minced (about 1 tablespoon) 11/2 teaspoons ground cumin 11/2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoon paprika, sweet or hot 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 bell peppers, preferably 1 red and 1 orange or green, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 medium red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces 1/4 cup loosely chopped fresh cilantro 1. Place the meat cubes in a large bowl. Season with the olive oil, lime juice, garlic, cumin, oregano, paprika, salt and several grinds of black pepper, and stir to combine. With your hands or a spatula, massage the marinade into the meat until it’s evenly distributed. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, up to 4 hours. 2. Thread the skewers (see Cook’s Notes), alternating beef, peppers and onions and repeating until all the ingredients are used up. Arrange the skewers on a tray or baking dish, and drizzle with a thin thread of oil (no more than 2 teaspoons) and any marinade remaining in the bowl. The assembled skewers can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 hours before grilling. 3. Prepare a medium-hot grill, and grill the skewers, turning every few minutes, until the beef is nicely seared on all sides and cooked to your liking, and the vegetables are tender and browned on the edges, about 8 to 12 minutes. Check for doneness by making a small cut into a piece of meat to peek inside. Remove from the grill, and let rest in a warm spot or loosely covered with foil for a few minutes. 4. Drizzle the skewers with about half the avocado crema and sprinkle the cilantro over the top. Pass the remaining crema at the table.
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Cook’s Notes: • For this recipe you will need 8 to 12 skewers (if wooden, soak in water for 30 minutes). The number of skewers you will need depends on how long they are. For smaller (6- to 8-inch) ones, figure 3 per person. For larger (10-inches or longer), count 2 per person. While you certainly don’t need to obsess about making all the skewers identical, it can be frustrating to get partway through and realize that you’ve used up all of one ingredient. A neat trick to make tidy skewers is to arrange the meat and vegetables into as many piles as you have skewers before you start threading; this way you don’t run out of any one ingredient by the time you get to the final skewer. • Interested in a little sweet with the savory? Consider adding pineapple to the skewers. You will need 3 cups of 1-inch pineapple chunks (about 1/2 pineapple, peeled and cored) for this recipe.
1 ripe Haas avocado, pitted and cut into large chunks 1/2 cup sour cream 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons milk, light cream or water, plus more as needed 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste 1. Combine the avocado, sour cream, lime juice, milk (or cream or water), cumin and salt in a food processor or blender, and process until smooth and creamy. It should be a pourable consistency. If too thick, add a bit more liquid. Taste for salt. The crema may be made up to 2 days ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.
GRILLED STEAK, BELL PEPPER AND ONION SKEWERS WITH AVOCADO CREMA
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SALMON FILLETS WITH HAZELNUT BROWN BUTTER AND LEMON-SHALLOT GREMOLATA
40 real food summer 2018
Salmon Fillets with Hazelnut Brown Butter and LemonShallot Gremolata
Buttermilk and Black Pepper Oven-Fried Chicken
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
If you crave good fried chicken but don’t want to stand over a pan of hot oil, here is a baked version that delivers big on both flavor and texture. A long soak in seasoned buttermilk leaves the chicken tender and moist, and a savory panko and Parmesan crust leaves it finger lickin’ good—and a good deal healthier! This is also delicious served cold at a picnic. Just don’t forget the coleslaw and potato salad.
The rich taste of Pacific salmon pairs beautifully with a quick sauce of browned butter and toasty hazelnuts, and the bright lemon gremolata adds just the right punch of sharp freshness. Add a simple steamed green vegetable—such as asparagus, snap peas or green beans—and spoon a little of the sauce over these as well. Sublime. 4 skin-on salmon fillets (about 6 ounces each) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces 1/3 cup chopped hazelnuts (See Cook’s Notes) 2 tablespoons minced shallot 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1. Pat the salmon dry with paper towels, and season all over with salt and pepper. 2. Heat a heavy skillet (preferably not non-stick) over mediumhigh heat until hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the pan, and heat until shimmering, about 30 seconds. Reduce the heat to medium, and add the fillets skin-side down. Cook, without disturbing, until the skin is crisp and releases easily from the skillet, about 6 minutes. 3. Flip the fillets, and immediately add the butter pieces to the pan. As the butter melts, use a soupspoon to baste the fish. Continue to cook until the fillets are cooked to your liking, another 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the fillets to warm plates or serving platter. 4. Increase the heat to medium-high, and add the hazelnuts, stirring frequently. Cook until the butter and nuts are fragrant and toasty, about 1 minute. Stir in the shallot, parsley and lemon zest, and heat through, about 30 seconds. Season with the lemon juice, salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the salmon and serve immediately. Cook’s Notes: • If you buy whole hazelnuts with the skin intact, you want to remove it before chopping as it adds a little bitterness to the sauce. Do so by spreading the whole hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toasting in the oven at 350°F until the skins begin to crack, about 10 minutes. Transfer them to a clean kitchen towel and wrap them in the towel to steam and cool for 2 minutes. Then rub with the towel to remove the skins before chopping. • The best way to enjoy the rich taste of salmon fillets is to cook it to medium or even medium-rare, which means checking for doneness as you would a steak or chop. The simplest method is to discretely cut into the thickest part of a fillet and check (medium salmon will have a trace of deep red translucence at the center). You can also test with an instant-read thermometer, looking for 135°F for medium-rare and 140°F for medium.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 quart buttermilk 1 tablespoon paprika 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 to 3 dashes hot sauce 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces
For the Coating 1 cup panko breadcrumbs 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt cooking oil spray or olive oil spray 1. In a large bowl, combine the buttermilk with the paprika, black pepper, garlic powder, salt and hot sauce. Whisk to combine. Add the chicken pieces, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, but not more than 24 hours. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a baking sheet with pan spray. 3. In a shallow baking dish, combine the panko, flour, Parmesan, baking powder, paprika, black pepper and salt, stirring to mix. Drain the chicken, discarding the buttermilk. Do not dry the chicken—the moisture of the buttermilk is essential to making the coating stick—and dredge the pieces in the coating, turning to thoroughly coat all sides. Spray the surface of the chicken with cooking oil spray, and arrange them on the baking sheet, allowing plenty of room between pieces. 4. Bake, carefully flipping the pieces about halfway, until nicely browned on all sides and cooked through, about 30 minutes for breast pieces and 40 minutes for legs and thighs. Let rest for a few minutes before serving. If serving cold, let sit at room temperature until cool, and then cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Cook’s Note: If you are cooking a mixture of white meat and dark meat, keep in mind that breast meat cooks faster and has a greater tendency to dry out than legs and thighs. Chicken breasts are done when they reach an internal temperature of 165°F, but the richer meat of the legs and thighs becomes tender and succulent when it reaches an internal temperature around 180° to 185°F.
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42 real food summer 2018
Stovetop Lobster and Clam Bake MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
A traditional New England clambake requires an enormous fire pit, a tarp and piles of fresh seaweed, but here is a version that you can cook right in your kitchen. The secret is layering in the ingredients according to how long they take to cook. Adding a strip of kombu seaweed to the pot at the start will add a nice “kiss” of the sea to the mix, but even without it, this elaborate seafood feast will transport you to the beach. 3 bay leaves 1 tablespoon salt 1 (4- by 6-inch) strip kombu seaweed (optional), cut into 6 pieces 11/2 pounds small red potatoes, 1- to 2-inches across, scrubbed 1 large yellow onion, peeled and cut into thick wedges 3 (1 to 11/4 pounds each) live lobsters (See Cook’s Notes) 3 large or 6 small ears corn, husked and silk removed, cut in half if large 11/2 pounds kielbasa, linguiça or other smoked sausage, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces (optional) 2 dozen hard-shell clams, such as manila or littlenecks, scrubbed 2 pounds mussels, scrubbed 11/2 pounds large shell-on shrimp 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, salted or unsalted, melted and kept warm 1. Put 1 to 2 inches of water, bay leaves, salt and kombu (if using) in the bottom of a large lobster or preserving pot (16- to 20-quart). Outfit the pot with a steamer rack that sits several inches above the bottom (see Cook’s Note). Place the potatoes and onions on the steamer rack, and set over medium-high heat. 2. Cover, and bring to a gentle, steady boil. After 4 minutes, add the lobsters to the pot. Cover tightly, and listen and watch for the water to return again to a steady boil. As soon as the water returns to a boil, set a timer for 6 minutes. 3. When the timer buzzes, add the corn and sausage, if using, and replace the lid. As soon as the liquid returns to a boil, add the clams, mussels and shrimp, replace the lid, and return to a boil. Continue to steam another 6 to 8 minutes until the clams and mussels are open, the lobsters and shrimp are bright red, the potatoes and corn are tender, and the steam carries the sweet smell of cooked shellfish. The total cooking time will be 16 to 18 minutes, plus however long it takes the liquid to return to a boil between additions. 4. Using tongs and a slotted spoon, carefully transfer everything to a large platter. Divide the warm butter among individual ramekins. Serve immediately, accompanied by tools for cracking the lobster shells, a bowl for the empty shells and plenty of napkins.
STOVETOP LOBSTER AND CLAM BAKE
Cook’s Notes: • If you don’t have a large enough pot to hold all the elements of the clambake, you can divide everything into two stockpots and cook them side by side. • Most steamer basket inserts won’t cover the entire bottom of a really large pot, but as long as the steamer holds the potatoes above the liquid, it will be fine. Alternatively, create a makeshift steamer rack by propping a round metal cake rack on a few round cookie cutters or empty tuna cans with both ends removed. • In warm weather, you might want to cook your clambake outdoors, placing the pot over a hot grill. If you do, allow extra time as the liquid may take longer to reach a boil between additions. • If you can’t get live lobsters, try frozen lobster tails. They should be thawed in the refrigerator overnight, and then follow the recipe as written except reduce the initial lobster cooking time from 6 minutes to 4 minutes. • Feel free to vary the fresh seafood according to what’s available. For instance, try crab legs in place of the lobster or increase the amount of shrimp. No mussels? Add more clams.
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BLUE CHEESE STUFFED BISON BURGERS WITH GRILLED ONIONS
44 real food summer 2018
Blue Cheese Stuffed Bison Burgers with Grilled Onions MAKES 6 SERVINGS
There is a lively debate about which Midwestern cook came up with the concept of putting the cheese inside a cheeseburger instead of on top, but no matter where the Juicy Lucy (or Jucy-Lucy) originated, this genius concept is the perfect solution to keeping the leaner, more protein-rich meat of a bison burger moist and juicy. Grilled onions and a “special” sauce don’t hurt either. or the Cheese Filling F 1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese (about 11/2 ounces) 1 tablespoon minced scallion, white and green parts 1 tablespoon mayonnaise For the Burgers 2 pounds ground bison 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste 1 large sweet onion, cut into 6 thick rings 2 tablespoons vegetable oil For the Sauce 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 teaspoons ketchup 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar dash Sriracha or other hot sauce, to taste salt, to taste 6 hamburger buns, English muffins or split focaccia Optional toppings: sliced ripe tomatoes, lettuce, pickles
1. Make the cheese filling: In a small bowl, combine the cheese, scallion and mayonnaise. Stir to mix, and set aside while you shape the burgers. 2. Break the ground bison into 1- to 2-inch bits with your hands and drop into a mixing bowl. Season with Worcestershire, salt and black pepper. Mix gently using your fingertips to break up the meat and to incorporate the seasonings without compressing the meat. Divide into 6 equal lumps, and then divide each portion again in half, so you have a total of 12 small portions (see Cook’s Note). Lightly shape each into a thin patty, about 4 inches across. 3. Divide the cheese filling evenly among 6 of the flat patties,
GRILLED STEAK W. CREMA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 349 (170 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 6g); CHOL 98mg; SODIUM 444mg; CARB 11g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 35g
SALMON W. GREMOLATA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 527 (347 from fat); FAT 39g (sat. 15g); CHOL 145mg; SODIUM 86mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 40g
flattening and centering it so it doesn’t spill to the edges. Top each with another flat patty, gently pinching the edges and rounding the meat to make 6 evenly shaped burgers, about 11/4-inch thick, without packing or squeezing the meat more than necessary. The burgers can be stuffed, shaped, and then covered and refrigerated up to 4 hours before grilling. 4. Make the sauce: Combine the mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard, vinegar and hot sauce in a small bowl. Season with salt and more hot sauce to taste. The sauce may be made ahead of time, covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. 5. Heat a grill to medium hot. Lightly brush the outside of the burgers and the onion rings with oil, and season both with salt and pepper. Arrange the burgers and onions on the grill, and cover the grill. Cook, flipping several times, until the onions are tender and browned and the burgers are done to your liking, about 8 minutes for the onions and 15 minutes for the burgers. Once the onions are done, set them off to the side to keep warm while the burgers finish cooking. 6. Transfer the burgers and onions to a platter to rest for a few minutes while you toast the rolls (or English muffins or split focaccia) on the grill. 7. Slather sauce on both sides of the buns. Top with the burgers and grilled onions, adding any optional garnishes. Drizzle over a bit more sauce, and serve. Cook’s Notes: • If blue cheese is not your thing (or if you’re just looking for a variation), make this with any favorite cheese. Grated Cheddar and Swiss are both good choices. • The easiest way to make equal-sized burgers (without weighing each) is to eyeball even portions and arrange them, before shaping, on a large plate. This way you can add a little here and remove a little there until you have 6 equal-size lumps to start with. If you want to be more exact and have a kitchen scale handy, weigh out 5.3 ounces per burger before shaping.
OVEN-FRIED CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 453 (196 from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 6g); CHOL 111mg; SODIUM 868mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 39g
LOBSTER & CLAM BAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 577 (262 from fat); FAT 30g (sat. 17g); CHOL 293mg; SODIUM 683mg; CARB 35g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 45g
STUFFED BISON BURGERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 551 (304 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 9g); CHOL 97mg; SODIUM 781mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 36g
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Firmly Planted Vegetarian comfort food to feed your body and soul BY LEAH VANDERVELDT
omething special happens when you blend good, fresh plant foods with great flavorsâ€”you actually begin craving these dishes day after day, not only for how they taste but also for how they make
you feel. Plant-based comfort food is all about combining healthful ingredients in ways that make you feel all warm and fuzzy on both a physical and mental level. Using robust flavors, varying textures and being generous with ingredients are some of the key secrets to creating meals that are the perfect combination of satisfying and nourishing.
BLACK BEAN & BEET BURGERS WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS
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Black Bean & Beet Burgers
MAKES 6 TO 8 PATTIES
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Against all odds, veggie burgers are having a moment. They’re no longer considered an afterthought on menus or at a cookout; they’ve become the main event that people line up for at trendy eateries like CHLOE and Superiority Burger in New York. My advice: Don’t skimp on the toppings. I’ve suggested some of my favorites below, but play around with additions of your own. I find this smoky and (dare I say) meaty veggie burger works well with lots of different combinations.
Caramelized onions make everything better, in my opinion. If I’ve made something that’s turned out a little meh, the best way I can think to spruce it up is with a little helping of caramelized onions. Best of all, caramelized onions are so simple to make with just a few very basic ingredients and some time. I’ve provided an option for a spicy version below, which takes caramelized onions to the next level— but feel free to stop with the first classic 4-ingredient version.
olive oil, for frying 1 small red onion, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons flax seeds 1⁄2 cup rolled oats 2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, drained and rinsed 2 medium beets, grated 2 tablespoons tomato paste 11⁄2 teaspoons smoked paprika 1 teaspoon dried oregano salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Optional Serving Suggestions toasted English muffins or buns barbecue sauce smashed avocado Caramelized Onions (see recipe right) sliced tomato Romaine lettuce or arugula 1. Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and set aside. 2. In a large bowl, combine the flax seeds with 6 tablespoons water and let stand for 10 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a food processor, process the oats until they are finely chopped and bordering on a flour-like texture. Add the black beans to the food processor and pulse until they’re finely chopped and combined with the oats, but not puréed. 4. Put the processed oats and black beans, grated beets, cooked onions and garlic, tomato paste, smoked paprika, and oregano into the large bowl with the flax seeds. Season with salt and pepper and mix with a rubber spatula or with your hands until everything is well combined. Form the mixture into 6 to 8 patties using damp hands, making them about 1 inch thick and about 3 to 4 inches wide. 5. In a large skillet, heat enough oil to cover the base over medium-high heat. Add two patties and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on one side, until browned and firm. Flip and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes on the other side. Reduce the heat to medium if the patties are getting too charred. Remove and repeat with the remaining burgers. 6. Alternatively, you can lightly brush the burgers with oil and bake them on a baking tray lined with parchment paper for 25 minutes in an oven preheated to 400°F, flipping them halfway through the cooking time. 7. Serve warm on toasted English muffins or buns with plenty of your chosen toppings.
2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large red onions, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar salt, to taste Spicy Option 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon honey 1. Heat the olive oil in your largest skillet or Dutch oven over a medium heat. Add the sliced onions, season with salt and stir to combine. 2. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes, reducing the heat to medium-low if the onions are browning quickly. If the mixture gets dry, add a splash of water to keep things from sticking. 3. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and cook for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the onions are softened, sweet and a little sticky. If you are going for the spicy option, stir in the red pepper flakes and honey at the end of cooking.
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “THE NEW NOURISHING” BY LEAH VANDERVELDT ©2017 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOGRAPHS BY CLARE WINFIELD.
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Buffalo Cauliflower & Chickpea Bowl with Kale & Tahini-Ranch Dressing MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
I grew up on chicken wings. The spicy, hot Buffalo-style ones that come with a side of blue cheese sauce, carrot and celery sticks. This bar food was strangely one of my favorite meals from ages 5 to 8. My dad even talked about my love of Buffalo wings in his speech at my wedding, which was both embarrassing and very fitting. Now I often eat Buffalo-style vegetables, because I like the best of both worlds—hearty roasted vegetables and messy, spicy sauces. Any hot sauce will work here. For the Cauliflower 1 small-medium sized head of cauliflower, chopped into florets 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 tablespoons hot sauce salt, to taste For the Chickpeas 1 tablespoon avocado or olive oil 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1⁄4 teaspoon garlic powder 2 tablespoons hot sauce For the Salad 1 bunch of Tuscan kale, stems removed and shredded 2 tablespoons Tahini-Ranch Dressing (recipe right), plus extra to serve 1 large carrot, peeled into ribbons 1⁄2 small red onion, very thinly sliced into half-moons 1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. In a large bowl, combine the cauliflower with the oil and 1 tablespoon of the hot sauce. Season with salt and mix together until the cauliflower is well coated. Spread out on a baking tray and roast in the preheated oven for 20 minutes. Take out and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons of hot sauce. Return to the oven for 5 to 10 minutes until the cauliflower is lightly browned at the edges. 3. To make the chickpeas, heat the oil in a large skillet over a medium-high heat, and then add the chickpeas and garlic powder and season with salt. Cook for 3 minutes, tossing regularly. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the hot sauce and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the chickpeas are starting to brown. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of hot sauce. 4. Combine the kale with 1 to 2 tablespoons of Tahini-Ranch Dressing in a large bowl. Massage into the kale for 2 minutes until it begins to soften a little. Toss in the carrot and red onion and mix until everything is well coated in the dressing. Divide the salad into bowls and top with the cauliflower, chickpeas and extra Tahini-Ranch Dressing.
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Tahini-Ranch Dressing MAKES ABOUT 3/4 CUP
I used to love ranch dressing as a kid and wouldn’t eat a salad that wasn’t drowned in it. Today, I don’t actually like the taste of most of the bottled varieties. This version has the requisite creaminess without the additives. I use onion and garlic powder here, which aren’t ingredients I use a lot in my cooking, but sometimes they’re able to create that distinct flavor I’m looking for. The upside is, they’re cheap and easy to find. 1⁄4 cup tahini, mixed well 1⁄4 cup warm water 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon onion powder 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1⁄2 teaspoon dried dill 1 teaspoon maple syrup freshly squeezed juice of half a lemon 1⁄2 teaspoon salt few grinds of black pepper 1. In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients until well combined. Or, purée everything in a small food processor. Add a touch more water, if needed, to thin out to your desired consistency.
Sweet Potato Noodle Bowl with Almond Butter-Ginger Sauce MAKES 2 SERVINGS
Sweet potato noodles are one of my favorite food discoveries. I love a simple baked sweet potato loaded with toppings for an easy and colorful dinner, and sweet potato noodles are that idea completely reimagined. The almond butter sauce is a riff on a rich peanut satay sauce, packed with garlic and ginger for Thai-inspired flavor. The garnishes of lime and mint really take this dish to the next level in terms of freshness and taste, but cilantro would be great here, too. A vegetable spiralizer works really well for making lovely long strands of sweet potato quickly, but you can also use a julienne peeler or even purchase pre-cut veggie noodles. 1 small crown of broccoli, sliced into small florets 2 teaspoons avocado or olive oil 2 small or 1 large sweet potato, peeled and spiralized or peeled into noodles 1 tablespoon tamari 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 large spring onions/green onions, sliced salt, to taste freshly chopped mint leaves and lime wedges, to garnish For the Almond Butter-Ginger Sauce 3 tablespoons tamari 2 tablespoons almond butter 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 teaspoon chili paste 1. To make the Almond Butter-Ginger Sauce, combine the ingredients along with a splash of water in a tall jar and blend with a stick blender or whisk in a bowl until everything is well combined (make sure your ginger and garlic are very finely chopped if whisking). Set aside until needed. 2. Put the broccoli in a bowl and pour over boiling water to cover. Leave to stand for about 5 minutes, and then drain. 3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the sweet potato noodles, a pinch of salt and about 1 tablespoon of water and stir. Cover and cook for about 3 to 4 minutes, until slightly tender. 4. Add the broccoli, tamari, garlic and onions and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add more water (a spoonful at a time) if you notice the noodles sticking to the pan. Once the noodles are softened slightly and the garlic is fragrant, remove from the heat. 5. Drizzle with a few spoons of Almond Butter-Ginger Sauce and RECIPE stir to coat. Divide into two bowls and top with mint leaves, lime wedges and extra sauce.
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Plant-Eaterâ€™s Protein For mixing, matching and maximizing flavor. These add-ons can take a bowl full of veggies from just okay to crazy-good.
BARBECUE BLACK BEANS
50 real food summer 2018
MAKES 4 TO 5 SERVINGS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This tofu is great to keep in the fridge to use in salads, grain bowls and stir-fries throughout the week. Sriracha is pretty spicy, but mellows when it’s in the oven. If you prefer it milder, use ½ tablespoon.
The key to extra crunchy and addictive crispy chickpeas is making sure they are as dry as you can get them before you combine them with olive oil and spices. These are great as a snack on their own or as a topper for salads and bowls. You can mix up the flavor coating with different combinations like madras curry, ras el-hanout (Moroccan seasoning) or simple rosemary and thyme.
14-ounce block of extra firm tofu 3 tablespoons tamari 1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil baking tray, lined with baking parchment
1. Remove the tofu from its packaging and drain. Wrap in paper towels and press with a weight, such as a heavy cookbook or baking tray, for 5 to 10 minutes to remove excess moisture. The dryer you get the tofu, the crispier it will become. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 3. Meanwhile, put the tamari, Sriracha and sesame oil in a medium-sized bowl. Mix together with a fork or whisk until well combined. 4. Cut the block of tofu into 1-inch cubes and toss in the marinade. Let sit for about 15 minutes. 5. Scatter the tofu cubes onto the lined baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes. Flip the tofu cubes with a spatula and return to the oven for another 10 to 15 minutes until crisp and browned in places. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before serving.
Barbecue Black Beans MAKES 4 SERVINGS
I was that picky kid who didn’t really like the flavor of ketchup, I had no time for mayo, and I still don’t totally get what yellow mustard is all about. But I’m a sucker for a good barbecue sauce. Smoky-sweet and tangy, good barbecue sauce is something to savor. This recipe captures the classic taste with the help of smoked paprika, tomato paste and maple syrup. It mixes with black beans for a great addition to dishes like bowls, tacos and nachos. avocado or olive oil, for frying 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin 1 (15-ounce) can black beans in their liquid
2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 cup water or vegetable stock/broth salt, to taste
1. Heat a thin layer of oil in a large pan with high sides over a medium-high heat. Add the garlic and spices and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. 2. Add the black beans with their liquid and stir to coat in the spices. Add the tomato paste, maple syrup, season with salt and stir. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add some water or vegetable stock/broth if the mixture looks dry. Remove from heat and stand, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.
11⁄2 cups (1 15-ounce can) cooked chickpeas, drained well 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) salt, to taste 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Dry the chickpeas on a clean kitchen cloth or paper towels to remove any excess moisture. 3. In a medium bowl, toss the dry chickpeas with the olive oil, spices and salt to taste. Spread out on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for about 25 to 30 minutes, shaking the tray halfway through, until beginning to brown. 4. Remove from the oven and allow the chickpeas to cool on the baking tray (they will continue to crisp up more during this time), before serving. Once fully cooled, the chickpeas will keep for 3 to 4 days in a sealed container in the fridge.
BLACK BEAN & BEET BURGERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 283 (102 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 380mg; CARB 36g; FIBER 13g; PROTEIN 10g
CARAMELIZED ONIONS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 66 (41 from fat); FAT 5g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 3mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g
CAULIFLOWER & CHICKPEA BOWL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 421 (200 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 3g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 1313mg; CARB 44g; FIBER 14g; PROTEIN 16g
CRISPY CHICKPEAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 126 (46 from fat); FAT 5g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 168mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 5g
BARBECUE BLACK BEANS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 186 (66 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 354mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 7g
SPICY TOFU: PER SERVING: CALORIES 103 (59 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 433mg; CARB 2g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 11g
SWEET POTATO NOODLE BOWL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 257 (117 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 2194mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 10g
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In Your Corner Former boxing champ and “Chopped” alum Laila Ali helps us all enjoy a taste of victory in the kitchen
hen Laila Ali prepared for a boxing match, she imagined herself in the midst of a tornado, breathing deeply and staying calm. By keeping her heart rate down and saving her energy, she rang up a string of 24 straight wins, retiring undefeated in 2007 at age 29. These days, the former pro boxer still uses the technique regularly, channeling the calm, calculated energy that earned her the nickname “She Bee Stingin” in the ring into the kitchen. It’s what helped her keep her cool on the Food Network’s “Chopped,” emerging victorious twice, and it’s what helps her manage a busy schedule of appearances with the likes of Rachael Ray, Emeril and Paula Deen on “The Chew.” It is even what helps her with the everyday whirlwind I find her in when I catch her on the phone one morning: She has just released a new cookbook, “Food for Life,” and the phone has been ringing nonstop. She is also standing in a construction zone—the result of a major kitchen remodel—trying to keep her dog calm, and planning how to cook dinners on portable electric burners for her 6- and 9-year-old children and her husband, former NFL wide receiver Curtis Conway. “My friends keep saying, ‘Just do takeout!’ But I can’t see myself doing takeout for five weeks. We’re going to have some fun on these little burners.” Ali’s life is busy, but she prioritizes giving her family healthy meals no matter what. While her book “Food for Life” shares some of her cooking tips and family-approved dinners, her journey toward valuing fresh foods and family meals started when she was a little girl. As far as Ali is concerned, she spent entirely too much time growing up without family dinners. “When I was young—not even old enough to cook—we had a cook, and I got used to having meals on the table,” she recalls, thinking back to the house she lived in with her father, the famed boxer Mohammad Ali. “I grew up thinking that was how it was: You bought fresh ingredients and prepared them and ate them, as opposed to buying already packaged food. But that was before my parents divorced.” Ali went to live with her mother and older sister in California when she was eight. “That’s when I had to fend for myself.”
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It wasn’t an easy time for her, as Ali recounts in her first book, “Reach!: Finding Strength, Spirit, and Personal Power.” As a teenager, she’d done a stint in juvenile detention. But she also had drive when she wanted to use it: At 16, she started her own business, running a nail salon in the back of a beauty parlor. And she frequently cooked. “Don’t get me wrong, I had pizza, too— it wasn’t like, ‘Oh, I want to eat healthy,’ ” she says. “But everybody has a natural liking for something, whether it’s a sport, art or so on,” she says. “I liked cooking.” Certainly, not all kids would have fared as well as Ali did in the kitchen, but she tackled it head on with her natural tendency to look on the bright side. “As a kid, I wasn’t afraid to get into the kitchen; I had the confidence. I was cooking without parent supervision—it was just me trying to figure out how to make things,” she says. “I’m just thankful that I got a love of cooking at a young age.” That interest certainly served her well when she set her sights on becoming a champion boxer—she had the ultimate control over what she ate. Sports weren’t her thing until she saw a women’s boxing match on television one day. “I had never competed in sports before,” Ali says. She had never even donned a pair of boxing gloves. However, in that moment, everything changed. “I needed to lose weight, to get into shape,” Ali remembers. And she didn’t have time to lose—she was already 18 years old, which is a late start for an athletic career. Not only did she have to slim down and muscle up, but boxers compete within certain weight classes, and Ali, as a middleweight, had to weigh in before every fight. Meals needed to be carefully calculated to allow her to stay strong and mentally sharp without adding pounds to her 5-foot-10 frame. Her favorite cake became the carrot to finish a fight. She would leave it in her changing room and not indulge in a piece until after she had won, she says. Other than that, “It was egg whites and oatmeal or pasta for energy.” Although she was already on her way to the healthy eating advocate
ALL PHOTOS MATT ARMENDARIZ
BY TARA Q. THOMAS
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“It’s not just about putting the ingredients together—it’s also about the energy that goes into the food. That’s why there are these sayings, ‘cooking with love,’ ‘soul food.’ ” —Laila Ali
RECIPE FROM “FOOD FOR LIFE” BY LAILA ALI. ©2018 BY THE AUTHOR AND REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF ST. MARTIN’S PRESS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT ARMENDARIZ.
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she is now, the pieces all came together for her during her first pregnancy. “I’d seen a documentary by Ricki Lake on natural birth, and I got into that whole world,” she recalls. She went particularly deep in researching the relationships between food and health and looked at the rising levels of heart disease, stroke, diabetes and cancer in the U.S., as well as obesity—which now affects one-third of American adults, and 50 percent of African Americans. To her, it was pretty difficult not to draw connections between those ailments and the modern American diet. As she puts it soberly in “Food for Life,” “Much of what we are eating is more food-like than food.” It’s not just the preponderance of packaged food in our diet, she says. Fruits and vegetables, now raised for hardiness and looks over flavor, don’t pack the same nutritional wallop they used to. Recent studies support her convictions, like a massive meta-study reported in the British Journal of Nutrition in 2014 that shows organically grown produce to have higher levels of antioxidants, anthocyanins and flavinols—all compounds that are thought to contribute to our health—than their conventionally grown counterparts. Several other recent studies have found higher concentrations of omega-3 fatty acids in organic meat and milk than non-organic as well. Even more important to Ali than the nutrition, though, is the simple intention of a homemade meal. “It’s not just about putting the ingredients together—it’s also about the energy that goes into the food,” she says. “That’s why there are these sayings, ‘cooking with love,’ ‘soul food.’ You’re talking about all of that energy you’re putting into that food. If you’re always eating out, you don’t even know who’s cooking your food.” With all of this in mind, Ali made a pact with herself to feed her family well and healthily, so, as she explains in her cookbook,“my kids would grow up with an appreciation for real food and have every opportunity to be strong and succeed in life, and my husband and I would have the energy to make that vision a daily reality.” That last bit is a key window into what makes “Food for Life” so refreshing. Ali owns up to the fact that it does take energy to make this happen—even for someone like her who truly enjoys cooking, it’s not always fun. She does it consistently because she’s made a commitment to herself, her family and the world to eat well.
“Consistency is really important to me,” Ali says.“That’s something that’s always stayed with me from boxing, that idea of taking control, of saying, ‘I’m going to do this and stay with it and see that I can do it.’ Whatever I do, I have to take steps in the right direction every day.” Some days that means she’s going to make time to cook her gumbo using sustainably raised shrimp, even if it means she has to wait patiently to get the roux just the right shade of brown. That way, her family has a dish they remember as fondly as she remembers her grandmother’s version (and, at the same time, she’s not contributing to the pollution problems posed by industrial shrimp farms). Other days, she says, “I’m just going to put some chicken on the grill and steam some veggies and call it a day.” She confides that one of the reasons she loves her protein-packed smoothies for breakfast is because it’s an easy way to get in a powerful dose of nutrition, and then she doesn’t have to worry so much about the details for the rest of the day. “I can get it out of the way.” That said, Ali has spent half of her life figuring out how to maximize the nutrition in a dish without giving up flavor, so you will find “Food for Life” packed with classic dishes tweaked to make them healthier—from a fast, light take on chicken fried rice to a black bean chili that relies on coffee, cocoa and mushrooms for meaty flavor rather than beef. Her Secret White Sauce recipe might be worth the cost of the book in itself, as it’s as delicious as a soup base as it is a replacement for the cream sauce in macaroni and cheese. My kids actually declared it the best macaroni and cheese they ever had. As you might expect from a boxer, she is also really good at strategizing and thinking ahead about clean, fast ways to get in a little extra nutritional punch. She calls out her Loaded Ground Turkey Tacos for an example, a family favorite that gets a nutritional boost from finely chopped zucchini or cauliflower. “I’ve been putting the zucchini in the freezer so it’s ready to go, because when I’m rushed you don’t want to pull out the food processor and deal with putting it together and cleaning it up,” she says. She also likes to keep super foods on hand— including maca, an Andean plant high in calcium and antioxidants, and super spices like turmeric, which has antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. They’re all placed in shakers she leaves on the counter, so she can add
Loaded Ground Turkey Tacos MAKES 12 TACOS
I know that I’m biased, but in my opinion, my turkey tacos are the best! Not only do they taste damn good, they get extra points because they contain a generous amount of veggies and are actually good for you. I skip the store-bought taco seasoning and take the extra five minutes to put together my own nutritious spice blend, and then use it generously to load my tacos with flavor. (It will keep up to six months in a tightly covered jar.) The veggies can barely be detected, making these tacos a balanced meal that the whole family can get excited about. Make sure to pulse the zucchini or cauliflower into tiny pieces with no chunks remaining and peel the zucchini for kids who haven’t discovered their love for veggies yet.
1 large zucchini (about 1 pound),
a little to anything from soup to pumpkin pie. Perhaps the most important lesson Ali offers is to keep calm and to be open to change even when you’re nervous about how something— either a dish or life—will turn out. “I get nervous, I have doubt,” she says. But back when she was on “Chopped,” she recalls, she won because she was able to keep her cool. “If you don’t, you’re going to mess up, run out of time, lose your mind when someone takes the ingredient you were going to use. You have to remain calm.” Only then are you going to be able to be resourceful enough to see the promise in a package of wasabi peas (the spicy crunch she uses to take a tuna-and-soba salad to the next level) or a jar of green salsa (to poach eggs on the fly). While she offers plenty of tips for switching up a recipe in “Swap it Out” sidebars as well as ways to up the nutritional profile in “Next Level, Please!” sections, she fully encourages readers to make a recipe their own. As far as Ali is concerned, just getting a home-cooked meal on the table is a step in the right direction. And when your creation doesn’t work out? Ali laughs. “For so many years, I didn’t cook with recipes—not even measuring spoons,” she says. “Then I’d make something I’d made before and it wasn’t as good, and Curtis would say, ‘Why don’t you just make it the same way you did before?’ I’d tell him, ‘Because I don’t know what I did!’ And he’d say, ‘Why don’t you write it down? It was good!’ And I’ll tell him, ‘Babe, I’m a cook, I try new things. That’s how you learn.’ ”
or ½ small head cauliflower, or combination 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil or unrefined coconut oil, plus more for cooking the tortillas 1 large yellow onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 pound ground turkey 3 scallions, sliced unrefined coconut oil cooking spray 12 soft corn tortillas
Taco Seasoning Mix 1½ teaspoons chili powder ¾ teaspoon paprika 1½ teaspoons ground cumin ½ teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric pinch of cayenne pepper (optional) 1¼ teaspoons sea salt, or to taste ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Coarsely chop the zucchini or cut the cauliflower into small florets, transfer half to a food processor, and pulse until finely chopped (for cauliflower, the goal is the size of grains of rice). Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining zucchini or cauliflower. 2. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened and starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the turkey and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon to break up the meat, until lightly browned and no longer pink, 7 to 10 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, make the taco seasoning mix: In a small bowl, combine all the seasoning mix ingredients. 4. Add the taco seasoning mix to the skillet with the meat and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, reducing the heat and/or adding a tiny bit of water or oil if the mixture starts to stick. Stir in the zucchini or cauliflower and cook until it has softened, about 5 minutes, again adding a tiny bit of water or oil if the mixture starts to stick. Stir in the scallions. 5. Heat a separate medium skillet over medium-high heat and spray it with cooking spray. Add a tortilla and heat, pressing down on it with a spatula to keep it flat, until malleable, about 30 seconds on each side, or a little longer if you’d like your tortilla slightly crispy. I like to keep my tortillas flat, but feel free to fold them if you like. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining tortillas, adding cooking spray to the pan as needed. To keep your tortillas warm while you are cooking the rest, place them on a baking sheet in a preheated 200°F oven as each is heated. 6. Fill the tortillas with the ground turkey mixture and finish with any toppings you wish to use. Optional Toppings: Grated Jack or Cheddar cheese, shredded romaine lettuce, chopped seeded tomatoes , roasted tomato salsa, green salsa, shredded cabbage, guacamole, chopped fresh cilantro, lime wedges and hot sauce
summer 2018 real food 55
Hot Companions Beef up your grilling repertoire with delicious wine partners BY MARY SUBIALKA
he summer air may be filled with wonderful aromas of freshly cut grass and flowers, but the smoky scent of steak sizzling on the grill is often what piques curiosity throughout a neighborhood as it wafts about on the warm breezes, inspiring entrée envy in those wondering whose dinner smells so delicious. Whether you are firing up the grill or bringing wine to share with friends, a few factors to consider will help make a match with beef. Generally, you won’t go wrong with a red wine, but there are some nuances to consider for your selection. There are flavors common to grilled foods such as those contributed by smokiness, which lend slightly sweet vanilla and earthy flavors, plus a caramelized flavor from the sweetness of the meat’s burned sugars. These elements need a wine with lots of body, richness and fruit flavor, as well as an adequate amount of acidity or tannins. Plus, the seasonings, marinades and sauces used can influence a wine selection. For mildly smoked beef, Pinot Noir, Rioja or Chianti can be refreshing counterparts. If you spice up the beef with a smokier flavor from a spicy dry rub or liquid solution, these lend big, sweet, spicy flavors, which can suppress the perception of acidity in the wine, making it taste flat. These preparations call for a big wine that has some spice and oak, such as Syrah, Petite Sirah or Zinfandel. If your creations include barbecue sauce, Zinfandel also pairs best with the classic sauce flavor—it has the fruit to match this tomato-based sauce, and it has spice to stand up to a little bit of heat. If the sauce is mildly spiced, Cabernet can work well. For a pairing with spicier barbecue sauce, fruit-forward Merlot will support but not compete with the flavors. There are many opportunities to fire up the grill throughout the summer, and experimenting with your favorite pairings might be a worthy goal for the season.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
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