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Contents / Issue No. 715

Features

PAGE 62

TO-DO LIST

“OK, WE CAN PICK THIS UP TOMORROW.” What Harvey Weinstein told an assistant who fended off his late-night advances [P. 86]

VA N I T Y FA I R

On the Cover

Ana de Armas wears a dress by Louis Vuitton; earrings by Cartier; necklace by Cartier High Jewelry. Hair products by Living Proof. Makeup by Giorgio Armani Beauty. Nail enamel by CHANEL Le Vernis. Hair by Ward. Makeup by Frank B. Manicure by Alex Jachno. Tailor, Hasmik Kourinian. Set design by James Lear. Produced on location by Joy Asbury Productions. Styled by Samira Nasr. Photographed exclusively for V.F. by Cass Bird in Beverly Hills. For details, go to VF.com/credits.

MARCH 2020

M I A G O T H P H O TO G R A P H E D BY DA N I E L J AC K S O N ; D R E S S BY G U C C I ; S H O E S BY M A N O LO B L A H N I K ; N E C K L A C E B Y V E R D U R A ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

“Decadence is opulence with an expiration date.”

www.tasaki.co.uk

170 New Bond Street

“My greatest regret is that I never slept with Cary Grant.”

VA N I T Y FA I R

20 22 116

Contributors Editor’s Letter Proust Questionnaire

—TOM FORD, P. 116

MARCH 2020

R E G I N A K I N G P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y C A R LO S “ K A I T O ” A R A U J O . E L I O T S U M N E R P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y I A N K E N N E T H B I R D ; S U I T J A C K E T A N D S H I R T B Y S A I N T L A U R E N T B Y A N T H O N Y VA C C A R E L LO . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

Contents / Issue No. 715

Vanities

Features

WIRES has been rescuing and caring for Australian native animals 365 days a year for over 30 years

wires.org.au

Editor in Chief Radhika Jones Creative Director Kira Pollack Deputy Editor Daniel Kile Director of Editorial Operations Caryn Prime Executive Editors Eric Bates, Claire Howorth Executive Hollywood Editor Jeff Giles Editor, Creative Development David Friend Director of Special Projects Sara Marks Executive Fashion Director Samira Nasr Market Director Nicole Chapoteau Accessories Director Daisy Shaw-Ellis Entertainment Director Alison Ward Frank Legal Affairs Editor Robert Walsh Research Director David Gendelman Beauty Director Laura Regensdorf Design Director Justin Patrick Long Visuals Director Tara Johnson Senior West Coast Editor Britt Hennemuth Production Director Mia Tran Copy Director Michael Casey Associate Editors Mary Alice Miller, Louisa Strauss, Keziah Weir Associate Legal Affairs Editor Simon Brennan Research Editor Mary Flynn Reporter-Researchers Brendan Barr, Michael Sacks Copy Manager Michael Quiñones Editorial Finance Manager Geoff Collins Senior Visuals Editor Cate Sturgess Entertainment Editor Caitlin Brody Senior Menswear Editor Miles Pope Special Projects Manager Ari Bergen Copy Production Director Anderson Tepper Special Projects Associate Charlene Oliver Production Managers Susan M. Rasco, Roberto Rodríguez Assistant to the Editor in Chief Daniela Tijerina Accessories Editor Alexis Kanter Research Manager Taylor Smith Editorial Assistants Arimeta Diop, Danielle Walsh Assistant Fashion Editor Alexandra Delifer Special Correspondents Nick Bilton, Anthony Breznican, Bryan Burrough, William D. Cohan, Amy Fine Collins, Joe Hagan, Maureen Orth, Mark Seal, Gabriel Sherman Writers-at-Large Marie Brenner, James Reginato

vanityfair.com Executive Digital Director Michael Hogan Editor Matthew Lynch Deputy Editor Katey Rich Digital Managing Editor Kelly Butler Senior Visuals Editor Chiara Marinai Projects Editor Alyssa Karas Line Editor Katie Commisso Senior Hollywood Editor Hillary Busis Chief Critic Richard Lawson TV Correspondent Joy Press Senior Feature Writer Julie Miller Senior Staff Writer Joanna Robinson Film Critic K. Austin Collins TV Critic Sonia Saraiya Staff Writers Dan Adler, Kenzie Bryant, Yohana Desta Associate Editor Erin Vanderhoof Copy Manager Rachel Freeman Executive Producer Traci Oshiro Visuals Editor Lauren Margit Jones Senior Social Media Manager Daniel Taroy Senior Manager, Analytics Neelum Khan Social Media Manager Sarah Morse Associate Producer Maham Hasan Editorial Assistant Sarah Shoen

The Hive Editor John Homans Senior Editors Michael Calderone, Claire Landsbaum Senior Media Correspondent Joe Pompeo National Correspondent Emily Jane Fox Politics Correspondent Bess Levin Writer-at-Large T.A. Frank Staff Reporters Caleb Ecarma, Abigail Tracy

Communications Vice President and Head of Communications Corey Wilson Associate Director of Communications Rachel Janc Manager of Communications Jackson Chiappinelli Associate Manager of Communications Dane McMillan UK Emily Hallie

Contributors Social Contributor Jeffrey Tousey Architecture Consultant Basil Walter Senior Designer Ashley Smestad Vélez Summit Contributing Producer Graham Veysey Special Projects Art Director Angela Panichi Associate Editor S.P. Nix Associate Visuals Editor Allison Schaller Art Assistant Justine Goode Visuals Assistant Madison Reid Fashion Assistants Paulo Cesar, Samantha Gasmer, Jessica Neises Contributing Photographers Annie Leibovitz Jonathan Becker, Larry Fink, Ethan James Green, Collier Schorr, Mark Seliger Contributing Artists Hilary Knight, Robert Risko Contributing Editors Kurt Andersen, Lili Anolik, Carl Bernstein, Peter Biskind, Buzz Bissinger, Derek Blasberg, Christopher Bollen, Patricia Bosworth, Mark Bowden, Douglas Brinkley, Alice Brudenell-Bruce, Michael Callahan, Adam Ciralsky, Rich Cohen, Sloane Crosley, Lisa Eisner, Bruce Feirstein, Nick Foulkes, Ariel Foxman, Alex French, Paul Goldberger, Vanessa Grigoriadis, Michael Joseph Gross, Bruce Handy, David Harris, Mark Harris, Carol Blue Hitchens, A.M. Homes, Uzodinma Iweala, Sebastian Junger, David Kamp, Sam Kashner, Jemima Khan, Wayne Lawson, Fran Lebowitz, Dany Levy, Monica Lewinsky, David Margolick, Bethany McLean, Anne McNally, Nina Munk, Fiona Murray, Katie Nicholl, Evgenia Peretz, Véronique Plazolles, Maximillian Potter, Lisa Robinson, Mark Rozzo, Nancy Jo Sales, Elissa Schappell, Michael Shnayerson, Richard Stengel, Diane von Furstenberg, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, Benjamin Wallace, Heather Watts, Ned Zeman MARCH 2020

VA N I T Y FA I R

Publishing Director Kate Slesinger Associate Publisher Clare Schifano Head of Partnerships Lucie Burton-Salahuddin Senior Advertisement Director Emma Heuser Jewellery Advertisement Director Emma Samuel Fashion Client Manager Emily Elliott Health and Beauty Client Manager Octavia Saugman Account Managers Emily Goodwin, Natasha Gresh Acting Fashion Client Manager Caroline Hall Sales Executive & Engagement Coordinator Camilla Longman Events Sales Manager Victoria Furse Events Coordinator Saffron Altmeyer-Ennis Executive Assistant to Publishing Director Imogen Agnew Supplements: Managing Editor Holly Ross Agenda Editor Annabel Davidson Art Director Scott Moore Deputy Art Director Anja Wohlstrom Acting Deputy Art Director Tereza Jichova Art Editor Lou Macleod Designer Emily Lord Picture Editor Tanjya Holland Parkin Chief Copy Editor Sarah Edworthy Copywriter Jessica Burrell Junior Subeditor Rose Washbourn Junior Managing Editor Clementina Jackson Partnerships Project Manager Hazel Byrne Partnerships Executives Hara Mavrogiorgi, Caroline Sillem Business and Partnerships Manager Charlotte Taylor Classified Director Shelagh Crofts Classified Advertisement Manager Emma Alessi Acting Classified Sales Manager Alice Winters Classified Sales Executive Georgia Heathcote Associate Publisher, U.S. Shannon Tolar Tchkotoua Director, Paris Helena Kawalec Manager, Italy Valentina Donini Manager, India Rachna Gulati Manager, Dubai Prasad Amin Regional Sales Director Karen Allgood Marketing Manager Ella Simpson Senior Data Manager Tim Westcott Circulation Director Richard Kingerlee Newstrade Marketing Manager Olivia Streatfield Subscriptions Director Patrick Foilleret Direct Marketing and Events Manager Lucy Rogers-Coltman Assistant Marketing and Promotions Manager Claudia Long Production Director Sarah Jenson Commercial Production Manager Xenia Dilnot Senior Production Controller Helen Crouch Acting Production Coordinator Lottie Smith Commercial Senior Production Controller Louise Lawson Commercial, Paper & Display Production Controller Martin MacMillan Director of Editorial Admin and Rights Harriet Wilson Editorial Business Manager Caroline Martinez Communications Director Emily Hallie Chief Digital Officer Simon Gresham Jones Digital Commercial Director Malcolm Attwells Digital Operations Director Helen Placito Chief Operating Officer Sabine Vandenbroucke Head of Finance Daisy Tam H.R. Director Hazel McIntyre

Managing Director Albert Read Vanity Fair is published by the Condé Nast Publications Ltd., Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S IJU (Tel.: 020 7499 9080) Published by Condé Nast Chief Executive Officer Roger Lynch Chief Operating Officer & President, International Wolfgang Blau Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue Pamela Drucker Mann U.S. Artistic Director and Global Content Advisor Anna Wintour Chief Financial Officer Mike Goss Chief Marketing Officer Deirdre Findlay Chief People Officer Stan Duncan Chief of Staff Samantha Morgan Chief Data Officer Karthic Bala Chief Client Officer Jamie Jouning Condé Nast Entertainment President Oren Katzeff Executive Vice President–Alternative Programming Joe LaBracio Executive Vice President–CNÉ Studios Al Edgington Executive Vice President–General Manager of Operations Kathryn Friedrich Chairman of the Board Jonathan Newhouse Worldwide Editions / France: AD, AD Collector, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Collections, Vogue Hommes Germany: AD, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Experience Is, GQ, La Cucina Italiana, L’Uomo Vogue, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired Japan: GQ, Rumor Me, Vogue, Vogue Girl, Vogue Wedding, Wired Mexico and Latin America: AD Mexico, Glamour Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America, Vogue Mexico and Latin America Spain: AD, Condé Nast College Spain, Condé Nast Traveler, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Niños, Vogue Novias Taiwan: GQ, Interculture, Vogue United Kingdom: London: HQ, Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design, Vogue Business; Britain: Condé Nast Johansens, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, LOVE, Tatler, The World of Interiors, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired United States: Allure, Architectural Digest, Ars Technica, basically, Bon Appétit, Clever, Condé Nast Traveler, epicurious, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, healthyish, HIVE, La Cucina Italiana, Pitchfork, Self, Teen Vogue, them., The New Yorker, The Scene, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired Published Under Joint Venture / Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, GQ, Vogue Russia: AD, Glamour, Glamour Style Book, GQ, GQ Style, Tatler, Vogue Published Under License or Copyright Cooperation / Australia: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Living Bulgaria: Glamour China: AD, Condé Nast Center of Fashion & Design, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Lab, GQ Style, Vogue, Vogue Business in China, Vogue Film, Vogue Me Czech Republic and Slovakia: La Cucina Italiana, Vogue Germany: GQ Bar Berlin Greece: Vogue Hong Kong: Vogue Hungary: Glamour Iceland: Glamour Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue, Wired Malaysia: Vogue Lounge Kuala Lumpur Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired Poland: Glamour, Vogue Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto Romania: Glamour Russia: Tatler Club, Vogue Café Moscow Serbia: La Cucina Italiana South Africa: Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden Thailand: GQ, Vogue The Netherlands: Glamour, Vogue, Vogue Living, Vogue Man, Vogue The Book Turkey: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Restaurant Istanbul Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content with a footprint of more than 1 billion consumers in 31 markets. condenast.com

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VA N I T Y FA I R

MARCH 2020

Agenda / By Annabel Davidson @vanityfairlondon

RESORTS

Aman for all Seasons

Victorian tiara from Hancocks for sale at TEFAF JEWELLERY

Tiaras and Tales If you want to sum up the calibre of art, jewellery and antiques on display at TEFAF, Maastricht (March 7—15, 2020), this incredible Victorian diamond tiara and detachable necklace from Hancocks is a prime example. Owned by infamous aristocrat Henry Cyril Paget, the 5th Marquess of Anglesey, who died in 1905 having run up extraordinary debts, it is due to be unveiled at this year’s Fair. Talk about provenance. tefaf.com

Aman hotels are synonymous with a level of luxury that garners a cult following among the wealthiest jet setters. Extraordinary locations, staff incapable of uttering “no” to any request, and A-list-approved privacy are major draws, but 2020 sees a wellness schedule roll out across the properties— with guests able to access leading Buddhist spiritual gurus, Reiki masters, Tibetan monks et al. aman.com

Note di Colonia V by Acqua di Parma SCENT

V for Verdi

Pool at luxury hideaway Amandari in Indonesia

Created over 100 years ago, Acqua di Parma’s Colonia fragrance is as iconic as the house’s signature Parma yellow packaging. To celebrate the city’s status as the 2020 Italian Capital of Culture, the brand has created Note di Colonia V to join the collection inspired by Italian opera. This fifth addition is a tribute to a Rigoletto aria, and will be exclusive to Harrods. acquadiparma.com

BEAUTY

COLLABORATION

Master Blaster

Pearls go Punk

When it comes to knife-free alternatives to rejuvenation treatments, Dr Michael Prager is one of the United Kingdom’s most in-demand cosmetic doctors. His new treatment, the H2 Infusion, blasts the skin with hydrogenated water, infusing the skin with one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants in a 40-minute treatment. It’s potent, yet relaxing. The perfect lunch-hour lift? drmichaelprager.com

Two of Japan’s most beloved institutions—Mikimoto pearls and Comme des Garçons fashion—are collaborating in a fine jewellery collection to launch in Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market stores, as well as the Mikimoto flagship in Tokyo. Marrying the softness of pearls with the hardness of silver chain, this is Japanese fusion at its punky best. doverstreetmarket.com

Dr Michael Prager’s clinic in Knightsbridge

MARCH 2020

Courtney bag from Michael Kors Collection ACCESSORIES

Nautical Illusions Gold stars and stripes in navy and white— does it get more nautical chic? This Courtney bag from Michael Kors Collection is a fresh take on their new signature style: an envelope bag with a long shoulder strap, perfect for teaming with jeans and a boyfriend shirt. Expect to see the Courtney in myriad iterations, but this is our favourite (for now). michaelkors.co.uk

Necklace by Commes des Garçons x Mikimoto

VANITY FAIR

Contributors

Rachel DODES “HOT, BUT NOT BOTHERED” P. 44

“In 2020, being horny often has nothing to do with being sexually aroused,” says Dodes, a New York–based writer and cohost of the podcast Nope. “You can be horny for justice, grocery stores, or binge-worthy shows. It’s a state of mind, a cri de coeur, a conscious choice to be an enthusiast in a time of despair.”

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Carlos “Kaito” AR AUJO “THE GOLDEN AGE” P. 46

Diddy’s 50th-birthday party brought out hip-hop’s royalty, many of whom are, like their host, identifiable by a single name: Usher, Kanye, Lizzo. And all of them sat for Araujo in V.F.’s portrait studio. “Just want to give a big thank you to Puff for allowing me to capture these images,” says Araujo. “Capturing timeless images for me to share with the world is a blessing.”

Daniel JACKSON “ALL THAT JAZZ” P. 62

Jackson’s varied snapshots of today’s brightest young actors make it hard to believe that the images were all taken in the same place: L.A.’s Palace Theater, the oldest Orpheum theater in the U.S. Alert to the “unfolding possibilities of the photographic moment,” Jackson utilized nearly every corner of the theater, including the freight elevator, back alley, and fire escape.

Rich MCHUGH “AN ORAL HISTORY OF A PREDATOR” P. 86

McHugh, who resigned from NBC News in 2018 after he and Ronan Farrow were ordered to stop investigating Harvey Weinstein, interviewed 30 of the disgraced movie mogul’s accusers for this issue. “This story taught me that the problem is so much larger than exposing one man,” says the Emmy award– winning journalist. “Abuse is systemic in our culture.”

Cass BIRD “ALL ABOUT ANA” P. 50

Bird, a V.F. contributing photographer, captured Ana de Armas among the trees of a Tuscanstyle villa in Beverly Hills. “She is a magic unicorn,” Bird says of the Knives Out and No Time to Die actor. “She brought so much spirit and focus to this collaboration.”After the shoot, de Armas flew to New Orleans to continue shooting Deep Water opposite Ben Affleck.

MARCH 2020

C LO C K W I S E F R O M L E F T : B Y S T E P H A N I E V O N B E H R , B E T H S A R AV O , E M I LY B I L L I N G T O N , R O B E R T G E L L E R , DA N I E L J A C K S O N

Clockwise from left: Rachel Dodes; Carlos “Kaito” Araujo; Rich McHugh; Ana de Armas and Cass Bird; Daniel Jackson.

featuring

*Calls cost 7 pence per minute plus network access charge. Transaction fee of £2.20 applies. 30% off ticket offer applies to on-the-door ticket prices. Advance Box Office closes 16th June

17–21 JUNE 2020

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Editor’s Letter

The year begins in January, obviously, but the rap on this January was that it felt a year long. Britain left the European Union, Meghan and Harry left

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Not for nothing does Rachel Syme begin her essay with F. Scott Fitzgerald, undisputed bard of the Jazz Age and its devil-may-care parties. But as Syme writes, the silver lining of opulence these days comes with its touch of gray—the consciousness borne of our age’s retreats and our collective fears for our future. In retrospect, musing on the pages of Fitzgerald, I can’t imagine his carefree flappers and gamblers had any idea what was coming to end their party, the magnitude of that curtain drop. We have, I hope, a more clear-eyed view, the better both to try to divert our path and to revel in the richness of talent, beauty, and art that inspires us to do it.

RADHIKA JONES, Editor in Chief

MARCH 2020

P H O TO G R AP H S : TO P L E F T AN D R I G H T , BY L AN D O N N O R D E MAN ; B O T TO M , BY K E V I N MA Z U R / G E T T Y I MAG E S

Britain, the Senate took leave of its common sense. (I myself got a year older, which probably would have happened anyway, but I still blame Mitch McConnell.) I don’t know about you, but it added insult to injury every time news of world-historical order dropped nonchalantly onto my phone via push notification, as if the death of the dream of a unified Europe was just another OS update. We can’t turn back the clock, but what if we try starting fresh with spring and its leitmotifs of youth and renewal? Our March issue looks forward, starting with our cover star, Ana de Armas. You know her as the admirably cool unlikely heroine of Rian Johnson’s Knives Out (weird that a film called Knives Out was my family’s pick for a unifying, feel-good movie of the holiday season, but that’s modern life for you), who charmed audiences and Daniel Craig’s detective Benoit Blanc alike. De Armas is on the cusp of a big year, taking on roles that define iconic: Her upcoming projects include the new Bond movie and a biopic of Marilyn Monroe, based on the novel Blonde by Joyce Carol Oates. She grew up in Havana and still considers it home, but as Sloane Crosley writes, she’s winning over Hollywood at warp speed. We also feature a portfolio of rising stars such as Mia Goth and Jameela Jamil, clothed in some of the more opulent selections from the spring runways. Why opulence? Well, these are the ’20s, after all, a decade that historically calls for excess.

Clockwise from top left: Elisa Key, Keegan-Michael Key, Alfre Woodard, and Roderick Spencer; Jennifer Salke, Phoebe Waller-Bridge, and Radhika Jones; Jones and Awkwafina; all at the Vanity Fair and Amazon Studios party celebrating the Golden Globes, in L.A.

Inside the Hive with Nick Bilton A VA N I T Y F A I R P O D C A S T

Can Donald Trump really get reelected? Should Washington break up Facebook? Can Netflix win the streaming wars? Nick Bilton brings you inside the room where decisions are made, through in-depth, revealing conversations with the biggest newsmakers in Silicon Valley, on Wall Street, and in Washington. INSIDE THE

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PAGE 36

Musician

CHARLOTTE LAWRENCE

H A I R B Y S A M I K N I G H T ; M A K E U P B Y R A O U L A L E J A N D R E ; M A N I C U R E B Y A L E X J A C H N O ; S E T D E S I G N B Y M I C H A E L WA N E N M A C H E R ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

is ascendant, with a bold pop sound and Hollywood roots

PAGE 32

A RENEGADE FRAGRANCE GETS A REBOOT PAGE 38

REM KOOLHAAS IN DOHA PAGE 46

DIDDY TURNS 50 Dress by CHANEL; sandals by Giuseppe Zanotti; jewelry by CHANEL Fine Jewelry; tights by WOLFORD. Throughout: hair products by Oribe; makeup by CHANEL; nail enamel by CHANEL Le Vernis. Styled by Nicole Chapoteau.

MARCH 2020

PHOTOGRAPH BY L U K E

GILFORD

VA N I T Y FA I R

Antalya REVISITED It’s long been a beach holiday hotspot, but the Turkish province of Antalya has much to offer besides its glorious shoreline

BEYOND THE SEA

Kaleiçi, the historic centre of Antalya’s old town

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Known as the gateway to Turkey’s Turquoise Coast, Antalya is a haven for those seeking sun, sea and striking scenery. Pristine beaches and world-class hotels make this a holiday hotspot, but there’s much more to be discovered in the ancient city besides its sun-soaked shoreline. A destination in its own right, the multi-faceted metropolis offers endless opportunities to explore history, culture and nature, from wandering through sites that have stood for centuries to shopping on cobbled streets and discovering authentic Anatolian street food. Feel the city’s soul in the old town Before it became one of Turkey’s top tourist spots, Antalya was the ancient city of Attalia, founded during the Hellenistic period and later becoming part of the Roman Empire. Thanks to this rich heritage, Antalya has a magnificent—and beautifully preserved—old quarter, with Kaleiçi at its centre. Kale Kapısı, the old city’s main square, is easily accessible wherever you are staying. Here, a grand statue of King Attalus II of Pergamon, who founded the city of Attalia in approximately 150 BC, stands tall opposite Antalya’s famous Saat Kulesi, a clock tower built during the reign of Ottoman Sultan Abdül Hamid II. Continue along the charming streets to discover renovated Ottoman houses standing side by side with ancient monuments, including Hadrian’s Gate and the historic Kırkmerdiven (Forty Steps), built by the Venetians who occupied the city in the 15th century. Follow these steps to reach the old Roman harbour, which was the centre of the city from the second century BC until a new port was built near Konyaaltı Beach in the 20th century. The historic harbour is now home to all kinds of boats, as well as a host of cafés and bars that provide the perfect place for a pitstop during a day out. Like every Turkish city, Antalya has its own traditional

(delicious) dishes, which are often found alongside freshly grilled seafood and mezzes. Street cuisine is a highlight here: try pide, a Turkish take on pizza; a traditional Turkish breakfast of borek (savoury pastry filled with cheese, meat or vegetables); or gözleme (a filled savoury pancake). For a full picture of the region’s history, Antalya Museum (around two kilometres west of Kaleiçi and easy to reach via tram) features exhibitions dating from the Paleolithic era to the Roman and Byzantine periods. The Suna-Inan Kirac Kaleiçi, a museum housed in a restored Ottoman mansion, is another must-see for history buffs. For those seeking something more current, shopping in the ancient city’s stone streets is the perfect way to spend an afternoon, with beautiful local crafts, ornate jewellery and unique carpets to buy. Take day trips back in time Beyond the old city, there are many other historical sites to visit around Antalya. Perhaps the most famous are the Greco-Roman ruins at Side, including the Apollo Temple and the grand Theatre of Aspendos in nearby Belkıs. In the past, this could seat more than 15,000 people, and today it hosts operas, concerts and events, including the Aspendos Opera & Ballet Festival in September and the Antalya Film Festival in October. Another great day trip from Antalya is the ancient Pamphylian city of Perge, a short tram or taxi ride from the city centre. A little further afield (though still only 45 minutes away), there’s the coastal city of Phaselis, an ancient Lycian port that’s home to some striking Greek and Roman

ruins. Phaselis is also one of the best swimming spots in the area with three charming bays surrounded by verdant pine forests. Lycians were not the only civilisation to leave their mark on the area. About an hour’s drive from the city centre, there’s the ancient Pisidian city of Termessos, which was built among the majestic Taurus Mountains. Among the impressively preserved historical sites, there is a magnificent theatre and countless statues to marvel at.

ROMAN HOLIDAY

Left: the ruins of the Apollo Temple near the harbour of Side, Antalya

Explore incredibly varied landscape When it comes to enjoying the great outdoors, Antalya offers astoundingly varied scenery. In the spring, visitors can swim and ski in the same day, with Saklikent Ski Centre a short journey away from the coast. From mid-December to the beginning of April, skiers can enjoy four scenic

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The vast 2,000-year-old Greco-Roman amphitheatre at Side, which could once seat more than 15,000 people, still hosts events today

SET THE STAGE

Clockwise from above: Kaputaş Beach; a ballet performance at the Theatre of Aspendos in Belkıs; the ruins of the theatre

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tracks, or, for those who want to stay on their feet, Saklikent is also home to Turkey’s largest canyon, a must-see in the area. Approach the canyon along a wooden boardwalk suspended above the river, then relax and enjoy the view from the soaring platforms, where you can also enjoy traditional Turkish delicacies and fresh fish. Antalya itself enjoys a sought-after position on the Lycian Way, one of the world’s most famous long-distance hiking routes. Stretching from Fethiye to Antalya, the trail covers around 540 kilometres of old roads, crossing authentic local villages, pristine beaches, pine forests, high mountains and ancient sites (including ruins and rock tombs), all set against awe-inspiring views and natural features. Ambitious walkers can complete the route from start to finish, while those looking for a more relaxed jaunt can walk sections of it or take widely available public transport. There are several waterfalls near Antalya, which make for yet more memorable day trips. One popular spot is the Dudenbasi Waterfall—a quick 12-kilometre trip northeast from the city—which makes the perfect picnic spot. Enjoy the scenic view of the waterfall flowing into a dramatic gorge and discover a cave hidden by the water, accessible only by a narrow staircase. A little further out from the city is Kursunlu Waterfall, the perfect place for hiking and taking in more of the striking scenery. The spectacular Manavgat Waterfall is best observed from a boat cruise along the Manavgat River. Rafting and canoeing are a great choice for an active day out; or, for something more relaxed, there are cafés and restaurants along the way, some of which are perched so close to the water that diners can dip their toes in from the table.

Antalya is positioned on Turkey’s Lycian Way,one of the world’s most famous long-distance hiking routes For keen golfers, there’s no better place to head for than Belek, one of Europe’s most popular golfing destinations. Home to various international championships, Belek offers world-class golf courses and resorts surrounded by bountiful eucalyptus and pine forests. Situated close to Antalya (just 35 minutes from Antalya Airport), this golfing mecca is extremely convenient. What’s more, Belek also has beautiful beaches, thermal spas and archaeological sites (including a Roman amphitheatre at Aspendos), so there will be something to please every holidaymaker. Wherever you venture in this picturesque, intriguing and timeless area of Turkey, many wonders—both ancient and new—await. For further information, please visit goturkey.com

PORT OF CALL

Clockwise from top right: St. Nicholas Church, Demre; Hadrian’s Gate, Antalya; the resort city of Alanya

Vanities / My Stuff

The Finer THINGS

The title of ATHENA CALDERONE’s new book states her mission: Live Beautiful Q

Style File

Bulgari B.zero1 ring (8). GO-TO SHOE: The Row Zipped Boot 1 (2). FAVORITE BAG: Chanel Classic Handbag Spring-Summer 2020 (11). HAIR ACCESSORIES: Boring, but Scünci’s No Damage Thick Hair black elastics. ALWAYS WEAR:

P H O T O G R A P H S B Y W I N N I E A U ( 6 ) , LO R R I N B R U B A K E R ( 9 ) , A R T E M E V D O K I M O V/ A L A M Y ( 3 ) , B Y N I C O L E F R A N Z E N ( C A L D E R O N E ) , F R O M PA R A M O U N T P I C T U R E S / P H O T O F E S T ( 7 ) , B Y A L E X A N D E R S PATA R I / G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 1 ) , D AV I D S U L L I VA N ( 1 0 ) ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

On Beauty

LIPSTICK: Nars Dragon

6. 8.

Girl Velvet Matte Lip Pencil (5). PERFUME: Le Labo Santal 33 (4). SUPPLEMENTS: Oregano oil capsules are my cure-all. WORKOUT: Sky Ting Yoga, SoulCycle, and a li’l dancing with Megan Roup or FORWARD_ _Space. Q

Sweet Home

NEW ADDITION: I recently

won my beloved vintage stool by Jean Prouvé at auction. BEDDING: Last Light. FLORA: Seasonally cut branches, like quince (3). POTTERY: Japanese ceramic plates from Roman and Williams Guild. FOUR-LEGGED FRIEND: I just rescued the sweetest pup ever. We met at a film screening hosted by Dianna Agron—he was

11.

10.

being fostered by the PR girl. His name is Tuco Kismet Calderone (6). COOKWARE: Staub. KNIVES: Material or Global. CUTTING BOARD: Black Creek Mercantile & Trading Co. in maple. PAINT: Farrow & Ball Ammonite. Q

Leisure Studies

LISTENING TO: People

will make fun of me for this one (my 17year-old son sure does), but I love my Pandora stations: Cigarettes After Sex Radio and Bob Dylan Radio. FAVORITE MOVIE: Sabrina (7). DESTINATION: Copenhagen (1). CULTURAL INSTITUTION: The Metropolitan Museum of Art—always alone, this is my sacred time. Q

The Menu

MORNING BEVERAGE:

A Beautiful Latte with hemp milk from Cha Cha Matcha (9). BREAKFAST: White Moustache sour cherry yogurt. INDULGENCE: Gem&Bolt mezcal. RESTAURANT: Ignacio Mattos’s Café Altro Paradiso (10), Estela, or Flora Bar. VA N I T Y FA I R

Vanities / Beauty

Suit jacket and shirt by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Styled by Rúben Moreira.

Generation NEXT Calvin Klein’s iconic gender-neutral scent, CK One, is being reborn for a new creative class. Musician-actor ELIOT SUMNER speaks to the here and now By Rachel Syme It is impossible to pinpoint the moment that Gen X culture hit its zenith, but one could make a sound case for sometime in 1994. That year was major: Tonya vs. Nancy, Pulp Fiction, Weezer’s “Buddy Holly,” the birth of lad mags, the death of Kurt Cobain, the debut of Friends and, a few months later, “the Rachel.” 32

VA N I T Y FA I R

In fashion, that was when grunge crossed over from mildewed Seattle rock venues into suburban malls—a trickledown effect of Marc Jacobs’s spring 1993 collection for Perry Ellis, which put supermodels in flannel and knit beanies (and later got the designer fired). Soon, brands were bending sideways PHOTOGRAPHS BY I A N

KENNETH BIRD

to appeal to next-gen consumers, whom they imagined to be disaffected, wary of being marketed to, and more or less against buying things. So how do you sell consumer goods to anti-consumerists? The answer is much the same way that you would sell to anyone: by appealing to their vanity. At the time, no company did this more effectively than Calvin Klein, which sold $90 million in CK One perfume to 20-somethings by offering a reflection of themselves as cool as hell: androgynous, stoic, comfortable in scuffed lug-sole boots and cheap satin slip dresses. The 1994 campaign for the unisex fragrance—shot in blackand-white by Steven Meisel, inspired by Andy Warhol’s Factory candids— featured a scrum of lithe young things, including Kate Moss. The model Jenny Shimizu, photographed with a buzz cut and a pair of low-slung jeans, became an underground style icon. “All of those Calvin Klein campaigns when I was a kid were so iconic,” says Eliot Sumner, speaking by phone from London. Born in 1990 to musician Sting and actress Trudie Styler, Sumner remembers gazing up at the billboards. Now, with the launch of CK Everyone, the 29-year-old is posing in those jeans. Rebooting an era-defining fragrance could be considered a play to nostalgia. (Jacobs reissued that career-catalyzing collection in 2018; the 1995 album Jagged Little Pill is now a Broadway show.) But CK One remains particularly prescient. “It introduced a new olfactive approach that wasn’t fully feminine or masculine,” says Alberto Morillas, the perfumer who cocreated the original scent, which evoked the frosted glass bottle it came in: translucent, clean, almost ghostly. Some whiffs recalled aftershave; others gave off puffs of powder and papaya. If it was daring to subvert the malefemale dichotomy at that time, CK Everyone arrives at a moment where fluidity is the lingua franca. “People are freeing themselves from the traditional restrictions of gender,” says Morillas, once again the nose. CK Everyone is about reveling in a kind of prismatic

G R O O M I N G B Y J O H N N I E B I L E S ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . P H O T O G R A P H B Y C H U N G S U N G - J U N / G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 3 ) ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

expressiveness—and the revels smell like orange and a hazy blue-tea note. The cast of the new campaign also defies easy definition, between their idiosyncratic styling and cross-genre work. The skater and photographer Evan Mock turns up with his lipstick-pink hair; MLMA, the Korean musician and chameleonic makeup star, also makes an appearance. But it’s Sumner, with lank waves and a bare face, who wears the ’90s mantle for our multifaceted age. Music being the family trade, the performer (who uses gender-neutral pronouns) got an early start helming the band I Blame Coco; they later slipped into the DJ scene under the alias Vaal. Now, Sumner has a slate of projects ahead. There’s an album in the making, a stripped-back effort they describe as “very introspective and melancholic.” They are also finding their footing on the big screen: with Guy Ritchie’s The Gentlemen, out earlier this year, followed by No Time to Die next month. “I’m the biggest James Bond nerd on the planet, so I felt that I’d manifested a dream,” the

Shirt by Dior Men; pants by Dior. Throughout: hair products by Bumble and Bumble. MARCH 2020

actor says of landing a part in Cary Joji Fukunaga’s film. “I play quite a terrifying cold killer”—a silent-but-deadly role that called for strength training and a combat coach. (“I can tell that our arm-wrestling days are profoundly over,” quipped a friend in response to a chiseled selfie.) Ordinarily, though, Sumner has their usual armor. “I tend to have a uniform every three to four years,” they explain. Right now, it’s jeans and white T-shirts (thanks to a fresh supply from Calvin Klein). For formal wear, they like British tailoring and Dior Men suits, giving a shout-out to Kim Jones, the house’s charismatic designer. They know what they want. “I’m not an extremely— what’s the word—compromising person when it comes to myself.” When we speak, Sumner is daydreaming of the family’s country place, a 16th-century English manor not far from Stonehenge. The eccentric neighbors have a camel named Timmy, whom Sumner considers a good friend. “It’s very easy for me to slip into that reclusive state, but I’m not a lonely person,” they insist. Half the time they are in London for meetings. “Then I head back to the countryside and build fires and live like a Wiccan.” There’s freedom in such wanderings, and in other pursuits (painting!). “With acting, it’s quite nice to not be the master of your kingdom for a bit— there’s a script, and someone to direct you,” says Sumner. “I’ve realized that it’s a great avenue for me to express my sort of harbored intensity.” They reflect back on the day they wrapped the Bond film, finally letting that character’s tough exterior crack open. “Everyone started clapping, and I just broke down in front of, like, 300 people. It was one of the best releases I’ve ever had.” What made Sumner so emotional was the sudden possibility of change. They didn’t have to be a legacy musician; they could start a new chapter. If Sumner embodies the spirit of CK Everyone, it is in that constant refusal to stop moving. The only hitch? “I have to be honest with you. I don’t actually have a sense of smell,” says Sumner, citing a long-ago head injury. Not that they mind much. “I make up for it in other ways.” Q

To Each Their Own

Anything goes, from no-rules runway looks to Boy de Chanel nail polish, debuting in buff and black (but who’s to say gentlemen don’t prefer pink?).

3. 2.

1. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello shoes, £480. (ysl.com) 2. Noto Botanics the Wash, £27. (notobotanics.com) 3. Timothée Chalamet, sporting glossed lips on the red carpet. 4. Calvin Klein CK Everyone, £42. (boots.com) 5. A look from the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus spring 2020 collection. 6. CHANEL Boy de Chanel nail color, £22. (Available in May at chanel.com) 33

Vanities / Trending 3.

NET POSITIVE

1. Carolina Bucci bracelet, £11,600. (carolinabucci .com) 2. Nalgona dining chair by Chris Wolston, price upon request. (thefutureperfect.com) 3. Salvatore Ferragamo dress, price upon request. (ferragamo.com) 4. Dior spring 2020 ready-towear collection blouse, £1,600; skirt, price upon request; sandals, £530; earrings, £430; necklace, £1,900; ring, £320; belt, £760. (Dior boutiques) 5. Prada shoes, £645. (prada.com) 6. Dolce & Gabbana spring 2020 menswear collection sweater, £5,650; shirt, £145; pants, £675. (dolcegabbana.it) 7. Miu Miu bag, £870. (miumiu.com) 8. Hermès Rouge Hermès Totem lipsticks in Corail Fou and Violet Insensé, £58 each. (hermes.com) 9. Fendi knit, £1,650. (fendi.com)

4. 2. 5.

7. 8.

Dream WEAVERS Channel the prismatic hues of neo-impressionism (on view this spring at MoMA’s Félix Fénéon: The Anarchist and the AvantGarde—From Signac to Matisse and Beyond) with all things laced, latticed, and knit large

Paul Signac’s Opus 217. Against the Enamel of a Background Rhythmic With Beats and Angles, Tones, and Tints, Portrait of M. Félix Fénéon in 1890 34

VA N I T Y FA I R

N A I L E N A M E L B Y C H A N E L L E V E R N I S ; H A I R B Y J O S E P H M A I N E ; M A K E U P B Y WA LT E R O B A L ; M A N I C U R E B Y L I A N G . PA G E 3 4 : P H O T O G R A P H S B Y J O S E P H I N E S C H I E L E , S T Y L E D B Y K R I S J E N S E N ( 9 ) ; B Y PA I G E K N I G H T/ © 2 0 1 9 A R T I S T S R I G H T S S O C I E T Y ( A R S ) , N E W YO R K /A D A G P , PA R I S ( A R T W O R K ) ; B Y DAV I D S I E R R A / T H E F U T U R E P E R F E C T ( 2 ) . A R T W O R K C O U R T E S Y O F T H E M U S E U M O F M O D E R N A R T , N E W YO R K . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

Bottega Veneta Maxi BV Jodie bag, £4,645; dress, £1,045 (bottegaveneta.com). Styled by Daisy Shaw-Ellis.

This Is

HUGE

The sheer magnitude of this over-oversized bag from Bottega Veneta, topping out at the height of an average toddler, makes room for everything (your practical compact!) to the point of delightfully absurd (and your Saint Bernard puppy!). Creative director Daniel Lee says he strives for a “tension between the bold and the glamorous,” and what’s more boldly glam than having it all— including the option to bring it all with you? —Daisy Shaw-Ellis

MARCH 2020

PHOTOGRAPH BY H O R AC I O

SALINAS

Vanities / Opening Act

Clothing by Givenchy; rings by Repossi.

THE HIVE REPORT

Dispatch From Silicon Valley After Facebook went public, its first 250 employees started a secret message board called TNR250—The Nouveau Riche—where they swapped links to potential post-stock-sale purchases. Since then, dozens of other start-up cash-outs have narrowed their wish lists to a handful of Instagram-worthy commodities. —Nick Bilton

Gulfstream G650ER

For a private jet, or “PJ,” the G650ER is modestly priced at a mere $66.5 million—and a range of 7,500 miles still gets you across the Pacific after a hard day of coding.

CHARLOTTE LAWRENCE

delivers an edgy pop sound steeped in California cool Raised on sitcoms and surfing, Charlotte Lawrence grew up listening to the sounds of Hollywood. Now the 19-year-old singer writes her own music, eschewing teen pop confection for emotionally raw songs. After her 2018 hit EP, Young, she plans to debut her first full-length album this year and contributes to the soundtracks for Birds of Prey, the latest film in the DC Comics universe, and the Netflix series 13 Reasons Why. Here, some insights gleaned from a day on the ski slopes with a bold new voice. between the L.A. enclaves of Brentwood and Malibu by TV titan parents: Scrubs creator Bill Lawrence and actor Christa Miller. HER MOM hosted Sunday jam sessions for the family’s Grammy-winning friends. “At 13, I played for my music idols and worked hard until I was confident that this wasn’t just a hobby.” SHE WAS RAISED

VA N I T Y FA I R

SHE INSISTS she was “a very shy child. I’m still

not good with speaking about real, emotional, darker stuff. I like to box that up for my music.” SHE REVEALS she’s “in love” but is no longer dating fellow musician Charlie Puth, who produced some of her songs. “I never regret any of my ex-boyfriends. He opened my eyes to a whole different side of music.” SHE WILL TOUR with Lauv this summer and is particularly excited to perform at Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre in Colorado. “It’s my dream venue for the acoustics.” SHE COLLECTS vintage band T-shirts and keeps them in “little mini closets everywhere,” from duffel bags in her car to storage units. HER STYLE ICONS are Jonah Hill and Shia LaBeouf. A FORMER MODEL, she remains friends with Kendall Jenner and Kaia Gerber, whom she calls “my sister until I die.” SHE SEARCHES for meaning in modern chaos with “God Must Be Doing Cocaine,” her provocative single. “I find a higher power in a lot of things: a sunset, how a song flows out of me. But we’re not doing the best with our world, and if he’s not helping us, he must just be doing drugs,” she says. “It’s blasphemous, but I didn’t want to speak for anybody —BRIT T HENNEMU TH but myself.” PHOTOGRAPH BY L U K E

GILFORD

The World’s Oldest Sourdough Starter

Silicon Valley nerds value the challenges of bread baking. The older your starter— the rumored record is 4,500 years—the higher you sit in the pecking order of cool.

Third, Fourth, and Fifth Homes

Owning two homes? No big deal. Owning two homes in the same city? Now that’s baller. For privacy, buy up a neighborhood à la Mark Zuckerberg.

Art (Sort Of)

While techies go a mile deep and an inch wide when it comes to their business, they tend to skimp on culture. As such, Banksy is their artist of choice. MARCH 2020

I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y J U S T Y N A S TA S I K ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

True BLUE

VANITY FAIR PARTNERSHIP

Room with a View At Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort in Thailand, an unforgettable night in a Jungle Bubble awaits Words by J E S S I C A B U R R E L L

lenty of resorts promise to take guests “back to nature”, but none can offer an experience quite like Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort. Perched on the dramatic border with Myanmar and Laos in northern Thailand, the resort has long been a leader in sustainable tourism, famous for its scenic elephant camp. This was set up primarily—along with the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation—to help animals in danger, providing a chance to see elephants without jeopardising their safety or wellbeing. Now, in a world-first travel experience that might well be adopted by other ethical elephant tourist spots, guests will be able to spend a night observing the elephants from their very own Jungle Bubble. Set on a raised wooden deck, these high-tech orbs offer unparalleled views of the majestic elephants as they roam uninterrupted around the magnificent natural setting. The unique bubbles were custom designed by Eye In The Sky with exclusive Précontraint Serge Ferrari technology to ensure that the view is crystal

clear from dusk until dawn. As night falls, guests will also be able to admire the starlit sky from their enchanting jungle residence. Fully furnished, the orbs take sleeping in the wild to a newly luxurious level, with a spacious, air-conditioned

The enchanting orbs offer unparalleled views of the majestic elephants as they roam uninterrupted around the jungle

ELEPHANTS IN THE ROOM

Above, elephants outside Jungle Bubbles at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort

living space under a transparent roof (plus an enclosed en-suite). Bathrobes, slippers and crisp white bed linen keep guests in the world-class comfort that’s come to be expected from Anantara. When hunger calls, there’s an exquisite dinner basket to plunder, as well as 24-hour in-room dining services, not to mention a fully stocked mini bar so you can toast a truly unforgettable night in the jungle. For further information, please visit anantara.com

Vanities / My Place 1.

3. In the Koolhaasdesigned National Library, “You enter in the center and you’re surrounded by a landscape of books.” In a country of less than three million, the space had a million visitors in 2018 alone.

1.“The desert is very beautiful, three-dimensional, with lots of dunes.” 2. The “astounding and experimental” National Museum, designed by Jean Nouvel.

OASIS REM KOOLHAAS finds

wonder in the textures of Doha

It’s rare, says Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, that the “complete repertoire of a modern city emerges more or less at the same time.” Doha is an exception; after the Brits emancipated Qatar in 1971, the capital city was razed and rebuilt. Koohlaas first visited in 2006 and fell for the city’s natural beauty, as well as its focus on art and innovation, before eventually designing the National Library. This month, Koolhaas mounts Countryside, the Future, a joint exhibition at New York’s Guggenheim with studio AMO. The project explores nonurban spaces, and features Doha’s entirely indoor dairy farm, created during Saudi Arabia’s blockade of 2018. As Koolhaas calls it, “instant —KEZIAH WEIR countryside.” 38

VA N I T Y FA I R

4. Travel by bike, Jeep, or the city’s distinctive teal taxis. 5. From Countryside, the Future. 6. The chain Shater Abbas is “incredibly cheap, but unbelievably good food.”

7. “From the very first moment, education was the absolute priority; this was instigated and maintained by the nonprofit Qatar Foundation.” 8. The oceanside Sharq Village & Spa. 9. A piece from Doha’s Museum of Islamic Art.

I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY C A S S A N D R E

MONTORIOL

MARCH 2020

P H O T O G R A P H S B Y M A R T I N A R GY R O G LO / O T H O N I E L S T U D I O ( 2 ) ; M AT T I A B A L S A M I N I / C O N T R A S T O / R E D U X ( KO O L H A A S ) ; S A M A R K A S S A B / © T H E M U S E U M O F I S L A M I C A R T , D O H A ( 9 ) ; D E L F I N O S I S T O L E G N A N I A N D M A R C O C A P P E L L E T T I / O M A ( 3 , 7 ) ; P I E T E R N E L VA N V E L D E N ( 5 )

Urban

VANITY FAIR SUPPORTS ONE YOUNG WORLD

CHANGING LIVES From left: Global Goals List ambassadors Douglas Booth, Yeonmi Park and Halima Aden

A World of Good When despondency seems unavoidable,Vanity Fair looks to the Global Goals List, created with One Young World to celebrate the leading lights working towards the United Nations’ 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development Photographs by P H I L I P S I N D E N

ncreasingly characterised by political turmoil, climate crisis and growing division, we live in an era that makes despondency all too easy. It can be equally easy to forget that, sometimes, it is uncertainty and unrest that breed change, via innovation, excellence, the challenging of expectations—and a touch of daring. These are the values championed by itinerant summit One Young World, which identifies, promotes and connects the most impactful young leaders from across the globe for four transformative days of speeches, panels and workshops. In October 2019, the 10th annual summit was held in London, assembling more than 2,000 young leaders from 190 countries with the aim of tackling some of the most pressing issues of our fraught times, including poverty, climate change, education and

gender equality. A host of prominent global figures—spanning Meghan Markle to Bob Geldof— led the four-day event. Now, for the second time, Vanity Fair is launching the Global Goals List in association with One Young World. Recognising the critical importance of embracing positivity, the list honours those spearheading the 17 Sustainable Development Goals outlined by the United Nations’ 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. Spotlighting the figureheads working to build a better, more collaborative world that focuses on inclusivity, education and the environment, the overarching objective of the list is to make the Global Goals not just aspirational, but accessible. The luminaries selected by Vanity Fair and One Young World differ in many ways, from age to areas of expertise. One thing that unites them is their commitment to achieving the U.N.’s blueprint for peace.

The

GLOBAL GOALS List

MarĂa Juliana Ruiz

Anisha Godha

Andrea Siller

Zero Poverty

Zero Hunger

Health and Wellbeing

Thuli Madonsela

Nathalie Emmanuel

Ellie Simmonds

Oktoviano Gandhi

Quality Education

Gender Equality

Clean Water and Sanitation

Affordable and Clean Energy

Yeonmi Park

John Hanke

Halima Aden

Decent Work and Economic Growth

Industry, Innovation and Infrastructure

Reduced Inequality

Hope Wakio Mwanake

Jeremy Darroch

Ellie Goulding

Richard Branson

Sustainable Cities and Communities

Responsible Consumption and Production

Climate Action

Life Below Water

Jane Goodall

Douglas Booth

Mary Robinson

Life on Land

Peace, Justice and Strong Institutions

In partnership with One Young World

Partnership for the Goals

VANITY FAIR SUPPORTS ONE YOUNG WORLD

British business magnate and philanthropist Sir Richard Branson was chosen for his work on what he has described as the “terrifying” effects of overfishing and ocean pollution. His work is supplemented by Ellie Simmonds OBE—fivetime Paralympic swimming champion and 14-time world champion—who is known for her commitment to charities such as WaterAid and I AM WATER. Addressing environmental crisis on a broader scale is British singer Ellie Goulding, a Goodwill Ambassador for the U.N. Environment Programme who has joined the frontline of the fight against climate change. Oktoviano Gandhi, co-founder of Alva Energi, is included for his work making clean, affordable energy more accessible, while Hope Wakio Mwanake appears for her efforts to make cities more sustainable through Eco Tiles, which addresses the high cost of construction materials and pollution. Dame Jane Goodall—U.N. Messenger for Peace and a leader in the effort to protect chimpanzees—is honoured for her conservation work. Sharing a focus on our effect on the planet, Jeremy Darroch—the Chief Executive of Sky who has committed the conglomerate to partnering with W.W.F.—represents responsible consumption. First lady of Colombia María Juliana Ruiz has long shown her commitment to promoting integral development for young Colombians. Her focus is supplemented by Anisha Godha, the co-founder of SNAP, which has been credited with increasing the VISIONARIES yield of marginalised farmers in India. Andrea Siller’s medical startup Above: Richard Branson, Nathalie Emmanuel and Bioana, which produces groundEllie Simmonds. Right: Ellie Goulding breaking medical devices, sees her

THE HOT SEAT

LEADING THE WAY

Above: Mary Robinson. Above right: Thuli Madonsela

Below, from left: Hope Wakio Mwanake, Andrea Siller and John Hanke

VANITY FAIR SUPPORTS ONE YOUNG WORLD

The luminaries selected differ in many ways; one thing that unites them is their commitment to achieving the U.N.’s blueprint for peace honoured in the field of health and wellbeing; while leading technology pioneer John Hanke, the CEO of software company Niantic, leads the charge on innovation. As the first contestant to compete in her Miss U.S.A. state pageant wearing a hijab, 21-year-old Somali-American Halima Aden is the perfect representative for reduced inequality; as is British actor Nathalie Emmanuel, admired for her work promoting gender equality. Fellow actor Douglas Booth, a U.N.H.C.R. supporter since 2015, is honoured for his work towards peace and justice, while human rights activist and North Korean defector Yeonmi Park represents economic growth. Thuli Madonsela, founder of literacy social enterprise the Thuma Foundation, is honoured for her contributions to education. Finally, Mary Robinson—a tireless advocate for justice, Chair of The Elders and U.N. Special Envoy for Climate Change when the Paris Agreement was reached—drives partnerships. All in all, this year’s list is a remarkable line-up. The 2020 summit will take place in Munich’s Olympic Park on October 14 to 17. Until then, it’s time to celebrate this group of game-changers—and the admirable goals they represent.

JOIN FORCES Clockwise from above left: Oktoviano Gandhi and Jeremy Darroch; Jane Goodall; María Juliana Ruiz and Anisha Godha

Vanities / State of Arousal

NOT BOTHERED Yeahhh, baby! Powerful women are horny and proud By Rachel Dodes

wave of anxiety is washing over us. To divert from his Senate impeachment trial, President Trump authorized the assassination of the second-most powerful person in Iran, briefly leading our country to the brink of war. Australia caught fire, a casualty of a global climate crisis that our government continues to ignore. Facebook has responded to a seasonal surge in political propaganda metastasizing on its platform by doing absolutely nothing. Harry and Meghan quit the Firm. And drooling bloviator Rudy Giuliani has a podcast. Standing on the precipice of what is surely the apocalypse, women have decided it’s high time to say the unsayable: In spite of everything, or maybe because of it, they’re horny. Publicly identifying oneself as an aroused woman is having a moment. Call it the hornissance. When Fleabag creator and star Phoebe Waller-Bridge hosted Saturday Night Live last fall, she observed in her opening monologue that “back in the day, horny women were to be feared—and now they’re given Emmys.” Her series, centered on a depraved woman who frocked a

IT’S 2020, AND A TIDAL

VA N I T Y FA I R

priest in season two, won six of them, proving once and for all that horniness trumps godliness. Waller-Bridge continued her streak as our horny emissary at the Golden Globes when she thanked President Obama for including Fleabag on his list of favorite TV shows, adding with a cocked brow, “as some of you may know, he’s always been on mine.” Fans of the show were in on the horny joke: In the pilot of Fleabag, the title character masturbates to Obama giving a speech on YouTube. At the beginning of Jenny Slate’s Netflix comedy special, Stage Fright, the comedian offers the following disclaimer: “So let me give you some good facts so that we can have an honest relationship: I’m horny.” Allison P. Davis, a writer for New York magazine, posted a smoldering photo of Prince on Twitter to announce her forthcoming book, HORNY, in which she will explore what she referred to as “one of the last great taboos.” And the ultimate arbiter of sexual desire, Jennifer Lopez, recently told GQ magazine, “[a] lot of things make me horny.” Who’s allowed to be horny, publicly, says a lot about where we are as a society and where we are going. Men, for example, have always been presumed

horny until proven otherwise. The term itself, most likely a reference to the shape of the phallus, was used exclusively to describe men and their sexual appetites for hundreds of years. It wasn’t until sexologists William Masters and Virginia Johnson published Human Sexual Response in 1966 that female desire was identified as an actual scientific phenomenon that may possibly exist in the world. That doesn’t mean it was celebrated. Who can forget the scandal that erupted 30 years ago when 2 Live Crew released the hit song “Me So Horny,” featuring an audio clip uttered by a Vietnamese prostitute in Stanley Kubrick’s Full Metal Jacket? 2 Live Crew was charged with obscenity, their album was banned in Florida, and the case eventually made its way to the U.S. Supreme Court. The idea of a horny woman was shocking and, at best, cringeworthy, something to titter over as Mike Myers’s Austin Powers posed his catch question, “Do I make you horny, baby?” The answer, at least on the part of audiences, was an unequivocal nope. Horniness was ridiculous, reserved for a fictional man of mystery with

Marilyn Minter’s Little Dipper (2009).

CO U R T E S Y O F R I C HAR D S AC H S

Hot, but

chest hair shaped like a penis, not a calm and collected woman. There was a brief, anomalous, period in the early aughts when it was approaching acceptable for women to talk about their horniness among friends. But it came to a grinding halt in February 2004, when two seemingly unrelated yet historically significant events took place within weeks of each other: Mark Zuckerberg launched Facebook and Sex and the City went off the air. Over the course of the intervening years, the frank sex talk popularized by Carrie Bradshaw and her horny harem was driven underground, another casualty of tech. As we built up our public identities online, the performative nature of relationships on social media—look how perfect we are!—had a suffocating effect on discussing our unmet sexual needs IRL without looking like a hypocrite. Technology cockblocks horniness in more direct ways: You can’t even post a photo containing a woman’s nipple on Instagram without getting banned from the site. Facebook updated its “community standards” recently so that our universal symbols of horniness—the eggplant and peach emojis—are now verboten. The net effect has been to silo our horniness from the public sphere, surfacing only when people slide into each other’s DMs or swipe right on hookup apps. Like everything else, horniness has been compartmentalized. Instead of bringing us joy, it brought us shame— so we KonMaried it. Now here we are. A little over a year after porn star turned national heroine Stormy Daniels crisscrossed the country on what she called the “Make America Horny Again” tour, it appears— against all odds—America is, in fact, horny again. And the horniness knows no bounds. It’s as if horniness in 2020 has consciously uncoupled from sex. “It’s going to be weird explaining to our grandchildren how horny we all got about congressional hearings,” tweeted television writer and podcast host Erin Ryan. Supermodel Ashley Graham explained to late-night talk show host Lilly Singh why she is horny MARCH 2020

for prayer. Lizzo is horny for K-pop, according to Buzzfeed, while Ariana Grande is horny for Christmas. In Apple TV’s new original series Dickinson— dubbed “horny Emily Dickinson”— Hailee Steinfeld’s Emily is hot and bothered for Death, embodied by Wiz Khalifa in a smoky CGI horse-drawn carriage. Other recent objects of declared female lust: podcasts, grocery stores (specifically Wegmans and Trader Joe’s), the Joker, and justice. Horniness has been applied to so many nonsexual activities that it is getting a little soft—and maybe that’s the point. Today, being horny is about having a lust for life in spite of all evidence that we should dig a hole and hide in a fallout shelter. It’s about being an enthusiast and having hope in a time of confusion and upheaval. These public declarations on horniness are coming— yes—at a time when relations between

Like everything else, HORNINESS

has been compartmentalized. Instead of bringing us JOY, it brought us SHAME, so we KonMaried it. men and women have never been more fraught. More than two years after the #MeToo movement exposed a disgusting spectrum of sexual misconduct infecting practically every industry, a backlash is making it harder for women to succeed at work. Male executives in finance are reportedly ripping a page from the playbook of woman-fearing vice president Mike Pence, resorting to de facto gender

segregation to mitigate what they perceive as risky interactions. At the same time, men who have been credibly accused of sexual assault are sitting on the Supreme Court and in the White House. In her recent memoir, entitled What Do We Need Men For?, E. Jean Carroll describes a series of horrific incidents—including getting raped by Trump in a Bergdorf Goodman fitting room—and offers a Swiftian proposal: killing all the men, reducing them to their atomic elements, and selling them off for more worthwhile products, like Birkin bags. To be horny in 2020 is to be on the front lines of a rebellion. After all, the best way to win a debate is to acknowledge and embrace the worst thing that could be said about you. That’s exactly why these horny-andproud proclamations are important; they’re a rallying cry to defang a culture of rampant misogyny. To declare one’s horniness in 2020 is to perform a public service in a time when displays of female desire still remain risky for women. Just look at freshman Democratic congresswoman Katie Hill, who resigned from the House of Representatives after nude photos of her were published on the internet without her consent. Freelance writer and activist Leah McElrath was horny-shamed on Twitter after making a lusty comment about then presidential candidate Beto O’Rourke that went viral. (She later wrote that her identity as the author of “the Beto Sex Tweet” will likely end up on her tombstone.) Even on television it remains hard for women to own up to their horniness. In Mrs. Fletcher, the lead character, played by Kathryn Hahn, holes up in her house to feverishly masturbate to porn. And in the first episode of Amazon’s new series, Modern Love, based on the New York Times column of the same name, a young woman drafts a text to a new paramour to say she’s “feeling horny,” then reconsiders, replacing “horny” with “frisky.” What a letdown. Because as we are discovering, horny women not only win Emmys— we shall inherit the earth. n 45

Vanities / Fairground

1. Sean “Diddy” Combs 2. Cardi B and Offset 3. Lizzo 4. Paris Hilton 5. Snoop Dogg

The GOLDEN AGE 5.

Diddy invited V.F. into his Beverly Hills home to capture his 50th-birthday bash with a special-edition portrait studio 4.

VA N I T Y FA I R

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CA R LO S

“KAITO” ARAUJO

“I’m blessed to have made it to 50.”

—DIDDY 8.

7. 9.

6. Mary J. Blige 7. Naomi Osaka and YBN Cordae 8. Kanye West and Kim Kardashian West 9. Janelle Monáe 10. Jaden Smith For more exclusive photos from the party, head to VF.com.

10.

Burning Down

THE HOUSE

Does S-U-S-S-E-X spell disaster for a royal family in crisis? By Michelle Ruiz

wouldn’t last. “Are Prince Harry and Meghan doomed?” New York wondered in the run-up to the couple’s royal wedding in 2018. “I think she will bolt,” feminist writer Germaine Greer predicted on an Australian morning show of the then 36-year-old actor/activist bride. Not two years

THEY SAID IT

later, there is indeed a split under way, just not the one skeptics foretold. Prince Harry and Meghan Markle are still together—“she’s the same woman I fell in love with,” he said in January— but they’ve effectively broken up with the 1,047-year-old monarchy. Queen Elizabeth II and company traffic in the presumption of magic and majesty—an assurance that, divinely and by birth, they are superior. Commoners are supposed to clamor at their gates, not marry in and then make a U-turn for Canada. The monarchy already feels drearier without Harry and Meghan, who infused the whole operation with big celebrity energy. The Sussexes had an estimated 1.9 billion viewers in their thrall at their royal wedding: Harry bit his bearded lower lip and appeared to whisper, “You look amazing” in what became a muchmemed moment. Meghan, the first biracial duchess in modern history, blinked back, glowing. The royal family was, but for a fleeting moment, both inclusive and…sexy? This historically white and musty institution needed the couple to appear modern and relevant to survive into the 21st century. And January’s shocking news, dropped via Instagram, struck a House of Windsor already in crisis.

Last November, someone else had quit the Firm, when Prince Andrew relinquished royal duties “for the foreseeable future” amid allegations he was an abuser in Jeffrey Epstein’s sex trafficking ring. (The prince denies these allegations.) In a disastrous BBC interview, the Duke of York minimized the late Epstein’s alleged child sexual abuse as merely “unbecoming.” And before even that unpleasant PR nightmare/disaster, there were the tabloid rumors swirling around Prince William, Kate, and their “Turnip Toffs” clique. It was only a year ago when 98-year-old Prince Philip tumped over in his Land Rover and that seemed like the worst kind of news coming out of BP. The queen conceded in her annual Christmas address that 2019 felt “quite bumpy.” Not since her self-described “annus horribilis” of 1992—when a fire broke out in Windsor Castle and three of her four children (Princes Charles and Andrew and Princess Anne) split from their spouses in high toe-sucking fashion—has the state of the royal union seemed so shaky. Eagle eyes noticed that a photo of the Sussex family was absent from her desk. Two weeks later, Harry and Meghan announced they were stepping down, and it’s been nothing but tumult since. “The monarchy, ideally, presents a cohesive front to the public,” said royal historian Carolyn Harris, author of Raising Royalty: 1000 Years of Royal Parenting. To her loyal subjects, the queen is the pearl-decked personification of the state, and the crown is “seen as a unifying force, a level of government that’s above party politics.” Disharmony in the gilded, British taxpayerfunded palaces defeats the purpose. But more than bad optics, some now worry that the loss of Harry and Meghan as working royals could leave the royal family short-staffed (especially after Prince Philip’s retirement from public life in 2017) and diminish the monarchy’s international reach. “The queen isn’t just queen of the United Kingdom,” Harris notes. The sparkliest royals are turning away from the Firm, literally and emotionally.

VA N I T Y FA I R

K A R WA I TA N G / G E T T Y I M A G E S

Vanities / Conscious Uncoupling

She reigns over 16 Commonwealth realms, including Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Jamaica, to which she and members of her extended family have embarked extensively on royal tours to flex their symbolic power (see: Harry and Meghan getting lei’d on Bondi Beach in 2018; wee Prince George greeting a bilby with William and Kate in Sydney in 2014). Fewer senior members of the family acting as brand ambassadors for the crown could lead to discord with, or, worse, defections among the Commonwealth states. Australia held an unsuccessful constitutional referendum in 1999; Jamaica and Barbados have, at various times, considered replacing the queen with a president. “If the royal family is less visible in the Commonwealth realms in the next reign,” Harris said, “the question of the future of the monarchy in these 16 countries might arise.” the dream of the first biracial duchess in modern British history ushering in a progressive new era. Instead, Meghan and Harry lasted just 19 months—a blip in a centuries-long reign. A gospel choir had heralded “Stand By Me” at their royal wedding; perhaps never in Windsor Castle had an African American preacher quoted Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and waxed poetic about the power of love (assorted kings entombed therein may well have rolled over). But the belief that, just by marrying Harry, Meghan could blow the mothballs off the monarchy—in the midst of a sharply divided post-Brexiting Britain teeming with nativism—may have been the biggest fairy tale of all. “As far as I’m concerned, the monarchy really lost out,” says Kali Nicole Gross, the Martin Luther King Jr. professor of history at Rutgers University, who specializes in black women’s experiences in U.S. history. “You push aside that pomp and circumstance and what’s underneath is not pretty.” One might have guessed that Harry and Meghan would gradually drift into their own royal/celebrity hybrid roles; he had a TV deal with Oprah; she designed a capsule fashion collection to benefit SO MUCH FOR

MARCH 2020

underserved women. They declined to give their son, Archie, a title. But the brevity of Harry and Meghan’s time as senior royals begs the question: How inhospitable must the royal mantle be to a biracial self-identified feminist and her rebel-hearted husband that they said goodbye so soon? The Irishman felt longer than Harry and Meg’s tenure. “I don’t think it reflects well on the institution or its place in contemporary Britain,” Afua Hirsch, the Booker Prize– winning author of Brit(ish) & Equal to Everything, told V.F. “The big question when this engagement and this marriage was announced was whether a woman of color could thrive in the

Not since the queen’s selfdescribed ”ANNUS HORRIBILIS” in 1992 has the state of the ROYAL UNION seemed so shaky. very specific context of the royal family.” Harry’s emotional statement that “there really was no other option” seems to provide a deflating answer. There was what Harry called a “ruthless campaign” of “relentless propaganda” against her by the British tabloids, and bald gestures, like Princess Michael of Kent’s blackamoor brooch. “The royal family is ground zero for a history of white supremacy and imperialism that they’ve never acknowledged, let alone apologized for it,” Hirsch said. Buckingham Palace’s onetime silence on the press treatment of the Duchess of Sussex now feels like a missed opportunity to have protected the first biracial duchess it initially seemed so pleased to claim. It was only as the two sides jockeyed over the

public narrative, and attempted to iron out the terms of Meghan and Harry’s exit, that the queen took corrective measures. In a warm statement amid the Sussexes’ departure in January, Queen Elizabeth said she was “particularly proud of how Meghan has so quickly become one of the family.” But the show of solidarity may have been too little, too late. members of the royal family find themselves stuck in a “toxic relationship” with Britain, says Hirsch, submitting to vicious cycles of tabloid scrutiny in exchange for seasons of positive coverage. It’s a codependency Prince Harry knows too well. For all the suggestion that Meghan masterminded the couple’s relocation to North America, Harry’s own reasons to seek a more untethered life have been mounting since the death of his mother, Princess Diana, in 1997. “I’ve seen what happens when someone I love is commoditized to the point that they are no longer treated or seen as a real person,” he said in a statement announcing a lawsuit against The Mail on Sunday last year. “I lost my mother, and now I watch my wife falling victim to the same powerful forces.” Diana never escaped the vicious cycle between the royals and the tabloids; Harry seems determined to try. To others, the saga will only make the monarchy even more relatable—“royal families: They’re just like us!”—and, in turn, beloved. Her majesty’s January statement, referring not to the monarchy but to “my family,” is a parallel to 1997, when she spoke “as a grandmother” about Diana’s death. Reminding the public that the queen is also “Gan-Gan” goes a long way to humanizing the institution. Just as she did in the wake of 1992, the queen and the remaining senior working royals will carry on with public engagements as normal “to make clear that the monarchy is not being paralyzed by any one disagreement,” Harris said. As the queen has said: “I have to be seen to be believed.” “The royal family is only in danger,” says Kehinde Andrews, a professor of Black Studies at Birmingham City University, “when nobody cares.” n

NOW, THE REMAINING

With a Bond reinvention and a Marilyn reimagining on the horizon, the breakout star of Knives Out is poised to take Hollywood. But ANA DE ARMAS dreams of Cuba even as sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ruling California

All About

Ana By Sloane Crosley

Photographs by C A S S B I R D

Styled by S A M I R A N A S R

that separates celebrities from civilians, leaving those of us curious enough to peer through the keyhole with an incomplete idea of fame. Here, for example, is the keyhole version of Ana de Armas, the 31-year-old breakout star of last year’s Knives Out: She darts across the dining room of Versailles, the Culver City outpost of Miami’s famed Cuban restaurant, like she’s trying to shave a few seconds off her time. It’s the day before the Golden Globes, and she has just come from a facial, which puts one in mind of a butler polishing already gleaming silverware. What is here for an esthetician to excavate I do not know. De Armas has been nominated for her portrayal of Marta Cabrera, the moral compass of the whodunit ensemble, and while she will not win the award, she will win the red carpet in a navy sequined Ralph & Russo gown, a crystalline Snow White with borderline anime eyes. As the lights flicker above us, she smiles and says, “Just like Cuba.” Oh, but de Armas’s light shows no signs of dimming! End of keyhole. THERE IS A DOOR

to understand someone else’s life without context. I don’t see this moment and I’m in the middle of it. I don’t think I’ll ever be able to, and by the time I can, it will have changed.” Freshly yet firmly on the other side of fame’s door, de Armas is in the rare position to fling it open, to be frank about what it means to be in the spotlight, to have your life reduced to a stereotype, to be sick of Los Angeles (by the time you read this, she’ll be gone). Just a few years ago she was spending seven hours a day sitting in a classroom, learning to speak English, which she did in four months. Now she’s one of Hollywood’s most efficient multitaskers: She’s about to appear in No Time to Die, the 25th James Bond movie, in a role conceived for her by

‘

STRONG BOND

Ana de Armas, photographed in Beverly Hills. Dress by Valentino. 52

VA N I T Y FA I R

T’S IMPOSSIBLE, RIGHT? To capture a whole person,

Cary Joji Fukunaga and written (mostly) by Phoebe Waller-Bridge; she stars in the upcoming erotic thriller Deep Water with Ben Affleck, directed by Adrian Lyne, as well as in The Night Clerk, with Helen Hunt, and in Netflix’s political drama Sergio; she will be going back to her roots (she was a towheaded child) to become Marilyn Monroe in Blonde. The fact that her earlier work alongside Ryan Gosling (Blade Runner 2049) and Keanu Reeves (twice, Exposed and Knock Knock) is already so far down her IMDB page is fairly astounding. So how did she get here? Beans, partly. “I am so excited for this food,” she says, tearing apart a piece of bread you could wring butter out of, “which is crazy, because I just came from two weeks in Cuba. This is my fuel.” De Armas owns a home in Havana, where the majority of her friends and family still live. Two minutes in her company invokes easy images of a dreamlike Havana. She spent New Year’s at a “roof party in the old part of Havana, playing music and dancing and drinking.” But things are more complicated than they seem. That party was full of actors she’s long admired “who said how proud they were, and that now I was the example for Cuban actors.” She cries just recounting it. Her parents have never been able to attend one of her film premieres. They see her work “later, like a bad copy or something.” In what should be satire, some L.A. acquaintances have gone so far as to tell her they envy the “digital detox” of Cuba or the fun of “not knowing what you’re going to eat for breakfast.” When the country was briefly open during the Obama administration, she heard concerns it would be overrun by Starbucks—“Americans complain about something existing, but then when they don’t have it, they also complain.” Consider her answer to “What are you wearing?” which should be the celebrity equivalent of spelling your name correctly on the SATs: “I don’t have any clothing.” “Come again?” “I came straight from Havana, so I’ve been wearing my plane clothes. My suitcases go full of clothing or medicine or supplies—whatever people need—and come back empty. My stylist gave me this Saint Laurent suit so I’d look cool. I don’t wear this in real life.”

she does have clothing. It’s just all in New Orleans, where she’s filming Deep Water. And, for the record, Hollywood is “not my life, it’s my reality.” “I have great friends, and incredible things have happened for me here, but the lifestyle and the exposure and the constant business situations are not for me. I like talking about life and art and babies and pets. Acting is what I love to do, but I can’t talk about it, not all the time.” Or, to quote Marilyn Monroe: “It’s good to have caviar but not when you have it at every meal.” Beans, maybe. But not caviar. Thus de Armas is moving back to Havana for now, half an hour from the beach town where she grew up. As a kid, she didn’t sneak into the city because “it’s a big deal to go when you don’t have transportation.” Instead, she and her friends entertained themselves and the neighbors by acting, dancing, and singing (she was Baby Spice in an adorably amateur Spice Girls cover band but didn’t understand the lyrics to “Wannabe” until she heard it on the radio a few years ago). Eventually, her parents enrolled her in theater school. (“I would hitchhike every single morning, just stand next to the stoplight, where the cars have to stop anyway, go to the window, and tell people where I needed to go.”) But American films weren’t a glimmer in her eye, mostly because she couldn’t see herself in them. “I would see the houses and airplanes and all the money and people robbing banks and it clearly wasn’t real, just the way princesses weren’t real. It was fantasy. The Cuban actors were the ones I was looking at because that was my reality— people getting in a boat or screaming at one another or killing a pig.” De Armas left for Madrid at 18, as soon she legally could, only able to because her maternal grandparents are Spanish. There, things fell into place quickly. She got an agent through a movie she’d made two years prior “and then got lucky and a week later, a casting director called.” De Armas starred in El Internado (The Boarding School), which was “a massive hit, a little like Stranger Things.” Only after she felt like she’d outgrown it both creatively (she felt “uninspired”) and practically (she was still playing a teenager) did she come to the States. I find it difficult to imagine that Hollywood wasn’t the endgame, given how well

OR THE RECORD,

MARCH 2020

she’s taken to it and it to her. (As Bobby Finger put it about de Armas on the Who? Weekly podcast: “[It’s funny]…when someone’s like, ‘This talented woman is about to be everywhere,’ and then you look at them and you’re like, ‘Yeah, no shit.’ ”) But, as de Armas reminds me, context is key. Hers was “one of the few Cuban families with no one in Miami even. The conversation was always Spain.” “People ask ‘How did you make this choice or that?’ But there was only ever one choice at a time. I’ve never seen my life in two ways, the way I wanted it and plan B. There was only ever the way I wanted it.”

NE GETS THE SENSE there’s not a lot out of de Armas’s

reach. Her Knives Out costar Jamie Lee Curtis had no idea who she was when they met. In a scene straight out of Notting Hill, she says she “thought Ana was this piece of unmolded clay and I asked her about her goals like I’m talking to a college student, and then I emailed Steven fucking Spielberg, saying his casting department should really look into this woman, as if she didn’t even have an agent.” A year later, Curtis is in a better position to assess her friend’s determination: “She is remarkable. She’s going to be like Sophia Loren, one of those rare crossover worldwide sensations. She’s got this exquisite depth and is singularly gentle and

“Bond girl”can be as reductive as“Latina caretaker, pretty.”

insanely beautiful, but also she is a girl from Cuba so there’s that tenacity and perseverance and fierceness to her.” Such depth of characterization was absent from the initial description of de Armas’s Knives Out character. Marta was boiled down to: “Latina caretaker, pretty” and de Armas almost didn’t take the part. She points out that Latina actors are still frequently pigeonholed using words like sensuality and fire. “Or else it’s ‘sexy with a temper.’ And it’s who we are. There’s nothing wrong with it so long as it’s not only that. That’s what I have a problem with.” “You mean you don’t wake up every morning, put on a short skirt, and start screaming at people?” “Oh, well, yeah, I do that until I get exhausted, and then I put a basket of fruit on my head and say, ‘Go fuck yourself,’ and then I take a break and do it again.” As much as she avoids stereotyping in her work, she thinks that it has, on occasion, been useful behind the scenes, particularly in a pre-#MeToo Hollywood. She credits her parents for teaching her“about men and boundaries and how to speak out” and describes herself as “quick and capable and I-don’t-give-ashit.” And while she considers herself lucky to have worked with 53

“She’s going to be like Sophia Loren,” says Jamie Lee Curtis. “One of those rare crossover worldwide sensations.”

FIELD OF DREAMS

Dress by Salvatore Ferragamo; shoes by Manolo Blahnik; earrings by Sidney Garber; tights by Emilio Cavallini. 54

VA N I T Y FA I R

MARCH 2020

“gracious and proper human beings,” she admits that “the Cuban thing helps.” “How so?” She narrows her eyes, waves her finger, and makes a tsk-tsk noise like she’s watching a dog contemplate bad behavior. When de Armas arrived in L.A., she “demanded” her agents send her out to auditions, telling them she didn’t come to Hollywood to get a degree in English. If there’s a story already associated with de Armas, it’s this one: She did it all phonetically. On the set of War Dogs, in which she plays Miles Teller’s girlfriend, director Todd Phillips “changed a line of dialogue and it was a disaster. In the end he was like, ‘Okay, forget it, just say what you had.’ It’s not a good place to be as an actor. I couldn’t sustain a conversation.” “The first time I read for a part, I had no clue what ‘I beg your pardon’ was,” she remembers, laughing, “I thought it was really angry, like ‘I beg your pardon!’ Like I am going to take your pardon. And every person in the room was like, ‘She has no clue what she’s saying right now.’ But the thing is, I knew exactly what was happening in the scene. It was a crazy combination of ‘She has no clue’ and ‘She’s doing it.’ ” Like all actors, fresh and seasoned alike, de Armas has nothing but diplomatic adjectives for her projects and costars, but she absolutely beams when she talks about Blonde, adapted from Joyce Carol Oates’s Pulitzer-nominated fictionalization of Norma Jeane Baker and directed by Andrew Dominik. “I only had to audition for Marilyn once and Andrew said ‘It’s you,’ but I had to audition for everyone else. The producers. The money people. I always have people I needed to convince. But I knew I could do it. Playing Marilyn was groundbreaking. A Cuban playing Marilyn Monroe. I wanted it so badly.” Before the script came her way, her knowledge of Monroe was limited to a few iconic roles and photos, but now she’s become a human conveyor belt of fun facts. Even her dog, Elvis, plays Monroe’s dog in the film. (“His name was Mafia. Sinatra gave him to her. Of course.”) She also identifies with Monroe in a more profound way: “You see that famous photo of her and she is smiling in the moment, but that’s just a slice of what she was really going through at the time.” “I have never worked more closely with a director than I worked with Andrew. Yes, I have had collaborative relationships, but MARCH 2020

to get phone calls at midnight because he has an idea and he can’t sleep and all of a sudden you can’t sleep for the same reason…” “I remember when she showed me a video of her screen tests for Blonde,” says Curtis, whose father starred with Monroe in Some Like It Hot. “I dropped to the floor. I couldn’t believe it. Ana was completely gone. She was Marilyn.” After months of immersive prep work, it seemed like nothing could tear her away from her Marilyn love affair. But who among us has not had our head turned by James Bond?

director Cary Joji Fukunaga, who’s been a fan of de Armas for years, wrote the role of Paloma “specifically for Ana, adding a layer of humor to the character that I hadn’t seen her do yet—which I thought might be fun.” He too is quick to offer adjectives accounting for de Armas’s appeal (confidence, humor, a can-do attitude), but at the end of the day, “it’s intangible. People either have that magic quality you want to watch or they don’t. She has it. If you could quantify it, you could probably sell it.” Despite the tailor-made invitation to 007’s world, de Armas wanted to be sure she was not doing Bond for Bond’s sake. “Obviously I was jumping all over the place and very excited. But I needed to be sure it wouldn’t jeopardize all the work I’d

O TIME TO DIE

“Playing Marilyn was groundbreaking. A Cuban playing Marilyn Monroe. I wanted it so badly.”

BLONDE AMBITION

De Armas is going back to her roots—she was a towheaded kid—for her role as Marilyn Monroe. Evening dress and corset dress by Burberry.

been putting in, that it wouldn’t ruin everything. And the Bond women have always been, for me at least, unrelatable.” Her concerns were valid. In addition to rumors of writer musical chairs and on-set mishaps—as The Independent put it, “Has there been a more fraught Bond production than No Time to Die?”—this is the first Bond film of the Time’s Up era. Yet it’s not the first time the franchise has attempted to address sexism. Historically, this effort comes in the form of giving “Bond girls” nonsensically rarefied degrees and character names that exist to support a single pun. See also: “I thought Christmas only comes once a year.” Zing. “Bond girl” can be as reductive as “Latina caretaker, pretty.” “I don’t even call them Bond girls,” says Daniel Craig. “I’m not going to deny it to anybody else. It’s just I can’t have a sensible conversation with somebody if we’re talking about ‘Bond girls.’ ” Craig was first struck by Ana’s performance in Blade Runner 2049, so his reaction to her being cast alongside him in Knives Out and No Time to Die was similarly enthusiastic. “I should always be so lucky to work with a woman like that. This is a movie where there’s a lot of shit going on, a VA N I T Y FA I R

VA N I T Y FA I R

MARCH 2020

GOLD STANDARD

Bond producer Barbara Broccoli says de Armas “packs a punch” as a rookie agent. Clothing by Prada; bra by Fleur du Mal.

THE EYES HAVE IT

Clothing by Dolce & Gabbana; earrings by Cartier.

SUITED TO THE TASK

Jacket, vest, shirt, and pants by Etro; earrings by Hermès. Throughout: hair products by Living Proof; makeup by Giorgio Armani Beauty; nail enamel by CHANEL Le Vernis.

“I like talking about life and art and babies and pets. Acting is what I love to do, but I can’t talk about it, not all the time.”

S REFRESHING AS de Armas is, it would be a mistake

to think of her as a babe in these tinsel-strung woods. This is an assumption she herself goes back and forth on, sometimes hitting the gas of savvy movie star and sometimes the brakes of vulnerability: “I’m like a fish out of water.” The big-picture version of her is less like her Knives Out character in her first scene and more like her in the movie’s last shot—the kindhearted woman who got drawn into a game she didn’t necessarily want to play but still won. When the lights flicker again in the restaurant and waiters sing feliz cumpleaños a ti to a neighboring table, she decides, “Ah, so not just like Cuba, too bad.” She means for this interview in the same way that, when she gamely suggests we get a drink, she orders a daiquiri because a mojito is “too Hemingway, too obvious.” When she first got to L.A., she met producer Colleen Camp while with her agent in the CAA parking garage. Camp then introduced her to Broccoli, which led her to No Time to Die. It’s true that de Armas’s success, equal parts 60

VA N I T Y FA I R

For more Ana de Armas and behind-thescenes footage from our cover shoot, visit VF.com.

artistry and necessity, has been achieved through the kind of determination few in her position have come by so honestly. “People ask, ‘How did you learn English so quickly?’ I’m like, ‘Because my life depended on it.’ ” But can’t it also be true that she is not alone, that the industry machinery has been trying to position her as the next Penélope Cruz since War Dogs? Can’t it also be true that she’s actually quite entrenched in Caviar Town, USA? She was a pre-implosion Weinstein Company starlet, starring in 2016’s Hands of Stone. Early in her L.A. life, she was in a serious relationship with agent Franklin Latt, heir apparent to Kevin Huvane at CAA. As her name recognition has spread, she’s become no stranger to paparazzi or dating gossip—the fundamentals of American visibility. Perhaps, so close to the other side of fame’s door, such realities can seem like potential liabilities to discuss. We don’t get into names, but about her personal life, she says, succinctly: “I’ve had company here, but it’s been the wrong company so I prefer to be alone.” “For anyone who ever questions or how did I get to do this or that, fuck them. They will not get to spend their New Year’s with me. They are not the people whose opinion I should care about. They are not the people I share my happiness with. I’ve never had an agenda. All I want to do is work. All I want to do is get something challenging and prove to myself that I can do it.” We are both full of beans. And rum. Outside, the sky has turned orange, perhaps a more worthy backdrop for a rooftop in Havana than the middle of Venice Boulevard. The restaurant lights flicker for a fourth time and we silently agree that we are all feliz cumpleaños’d out. No matter what happens at the awards tomorrow night, de Armas knows she will remember it as one wonderful evening during “this moment in time that might, that will, keep changing.” As we head for the door, she flings a suede leopard-print YSL bag over her shoulder. I stop her. “Wow, your stylist really did hook you up.” “No, no,” she smiles, “This one’s mine.” I tell her I’d be worried I’d destroy it. “Oh, you can’t be,” she says, going back out the way she came in. “Life is for living.” Q MARCH 2020

H A I R B Y WA R D ; M A K E U P B Y F R A N K B . ; M A N I C U R E B Y A L E X J A C H N O ; TA I LO R , H A S M I K KO U R I N I A N ; S E T D E S I G N B Y J A M E S L E A R ; P R O D U C E D O N LO C AT I O N B Y J OY A S B U R Y P R O D U C T I O N S ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

lot of big acting, myself very much included, but she shines through because she’s the real deal. She’s got very good comic timing and we’re not offering her a huge part. But she came in and just nailed it. She had very little to go on, the scripts are being rewritten, you’re changing things all the time or throwing them at her, and she’s not fazed by it.” Looks like someone doesn’t have to beg anyone’s pardon anymore. Zing. “You could also tell that Phoebe was in there,” says de Armas. “There was that humor and spikiness so specific to her. My character feels like a real woman. But you know, we can evolve and grow and incorporate reality, but Bond is a fantasy. In the end you can’t take things out of where they live.” “There wasn’t any other choice,” explains longtime Bond producer Barbara Broccoli, sounding as laser-visioned as de Armas herself. “It was Ana we all wanted.” Between Barbara and her father, the legendary “Cubby” Broccoli, they have produced 25 bond films. Her hold music is Shirley Bassey’s “Diamonds Are Forever.” “Her character is someone who’s just started working for the CIA, and so she’s supposed to have minimal training when she first meets Bond. The expectation is that she’s not going to be the most proficient agent, but let’s just say that she really packs a punch.”

all that By RAC H E L SY M E Interviews by BRITT HENNEMUTH

Sophia LILLIS SEEN IN

Gretel & Hansel and It Chapter Two

UP NEXT

I Am Not Okay With This, on Netflix this month Dream closet: Hannah Montana’s rotating walk-in closet Favorite destination: Ireland Greatest indulgence: Sleep Dress by Dior; jewelry by BULGARI High Jewelry. 62

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JAZZ The Roaring ’20s are officially upon us, bringing with them heady abandon. This season’s rising stars show off opulence with a modern twist

Photographs by D A N I E L J A C K S O N

Styled by S A M I R A N A S R

They found the country much changed. Having left the Champagne-soaked festivities early, by the time they returned, all that was left was an empty dance hall with glitter on the floor. They’d been so busy careering around Europe in a dizzying cloud of cocksure charisma—and personal drama—that they didn’t notice the moment things began to unravel. After the stock market plummeted in 1929, the Fitzgeralds were on holiday in North Africa. As Fitzgerald later wrote, “We heard a dull distant crash which echoed to the farthest wastes of the desert.” But they kept drinking, seeing no need to sail home. The crash echoed through their lives nonetheless. That year, Zelda’s mental health declined, and she checked into the Swiss clinic Les Rives de Prangins, where she scribbled letters about spending her days “writing soggy words in the rain and feeling dank inside.” Fitzgerald, for his part, was unable to finish his next novel. When they finally arrived home on a steamer, Fitzgerald wrote, they found that several of their most buoyant friends had also begun to sink. “Somebody had blundered,” he wrote in an essay that year. “And the most expensive orgy in history was over.” It is never easy to pinpoint the exact moment that a party begins to wind down. But, as Fitzgerald noted looking back on

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the Jazz Age, the party is usually over before anyone notices. It is ending all the time, from the moment someone kicks off their first heel. Decadence—that state of ecstatic, almost sublime decay—is really just opulence with an expiration date. Fitzgerald wrote that friends were living far beyond their means, and they knew it, and they simply didn’t care. “Even when you were broke you didn’t worry about money, because it was in such profusion around you,” he wrote. “Now once more the belt is tight and we summon the proper expression of horror as we look back at our wasted youth.” We are living in the ’20s again. But our times are not roaring; at least not with giddy, boozy elation. Who can afford the performative nihilism of doing the foxtrot into oblivion? Wasted youth is a privilege, one that so many young people today cannot access; the planet is crumbling, right-wing extremism is on the rise, wealth disparity is worse than it has been in a century. (This we do have in common with Fitzgerald’s time.) The party is very much over—or at least the record player is snagging and people have started to grab their coats. The biggest drinking trend among people under 30 these days is sobriety. If fashion is flirting with decadence—the recent runway shows glittered with grandiosity and razzle-dazzle—then at least this decadence is gimlet-eyed and somewhat sobering. There is a kind of winking meta-maximalism happening at the moment; a luxury that knows itself and its own limitations, knows how precarious it all is. Fashion is

having riotous fun, but it is not blithe or indulgent. This is sartorial raging against a dying light; this is eating a chocolate cake at two in the morning because who can say when the sun will rise? In entertainment, we are in a clear period of heady excess. The streaming revolution has led to an explosion of new stories with monumental production values—and opportunities for fresh faces seeking stardom. This may be a scary time to be a person, but it is an excellent time to be in Hollywood; there has never been a more diverse, textured, exciting array of projects and talent, with real money and energy fueling their development. How long can it last? No one can say, but for now, we should revel in it, and in the thrilling crop of newcomers that have bubbled up in this new era. So what if the party’s dwindling, let’s dance. And so here is a portfolio reveling in willful decadence, about the velvet and brocade and baubles that you put on not as a distraction from the world, but in celebration of your potential within it‚ and in spite of it. These are not times to retreat into spartan asceticism. These are days for sparkle, for ruffles, for amulets and waistcoats. Fashion should feel a little bit gaudy, a little bit unstable, perhaps incautious and maybe even fleeting. Nothing is permanent; no decade roars forever. The new ’20s are about not ignoring the dull distant crashes, but facing them head-on. In a party dress. Q

Kelvin

H A R RISON JR. SEEN IN

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The Trial of the Chicago 7, in October Dream closet: A$AP Rocky’s Favorite destination: Budapest Greatest indulgence: Chocolate lava cake Prized possession: His grandfather’s necklace Clothing by CELINE by Hedi Slimane.

MARCH 2020

Jameela JA MIL SEEN IN

The Good Place, on NBC UP NEXT

Legendary, on HBO Max Fantasy closet: “Diane Keaton by day, Sophia Loren by night.” Favorite place: “Rome. They allow people to age with dignity.” Greatest indulgence: Microwaved sourdough with butter Prized possession: “I value my relationship more than money, success, and sourdough.” Coat by BALENCIAGA; shoes by Manolo Blahnik; necklace by Tiffany & Co.

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Diana

SI LV E R S

SEEN IN

Booksmart and Ma UP NEXT

Space Force, on Netflix Fantasy closet: Twiggy’s Favorite place: Montana, but she’d like to move to London. Greatest indulgence: Mac ’n’ cheese Prized possession: Her record collection Dress by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello; sandals by Giuseppe Zanotti; earrings by Verdura.

MARCH 2020

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Mia

GOTH SEEN IN

Suspiria

STARS IN

Emma, in theaters now Fantasy closet: Jane Birkin’s Favorite place: Brazil Greatest indulgence: “Pasta. If I’m sad, if I’m happy, if it’s Sunday, I am eating pasta.” Prized possession: “My apartment. I relish it.” Dress by GUCCI; necklace by Verdura.

Glen

POW ELL

SEEN IN

Set It Up and Hidden Figures UP NEXT

Top Gun: Maverick, in June Fantasy closet: Butch Cassidy’s or the Sundance Kid’s Greatest indulgence: Barbecue Prized possession: A gift from Mr. Cruise himself. “An IWC Top Gun Fighter Weapons School watch, inscribed ‘Your friend Tom/Mav.’ ” Clothing and boots by TOM FORD; watch by Vacheron Constantin.

MARCH 2020

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Jessica

HEN W ICK

SEEN IN

Underwater UP NEXT

Sofia Coppola’s On the Rocks, Godzilla vs. Kong in November, and The Matrix 4, next year Fantasy closet: Faye Wong’s Favorite place: The Camino de Santiago trail, in Spain Greatest indulgence: “I’m a really easy person to buy a gift for, because you can just give me a massage.” Prized possession: “My brain.” Clothing by Louis Vuitton; necklace by Lisa Eisner Jewelry.

MARCH 2020

Charles MELTON

SEEN IN

Bad Boys for Life STARS IN

Riverdale, on The CW Fantasy closet: Elvis Presley’s Favorite place: Big Pine, California Greatest indulgence: Massages Prized possession: “My Chucks.”

Amandla STENBERG

SEEN IN

The Hate U Give UP NEXT

Damien Chazelle’s The Eddy, on Netflix Fantasy closet: “I love shoes. I’d fill it with Dickies and Louis Vuitton flats!” Favorite place: Paris Greatest indulgence: Love Prized possession: “My cat, Kumo. He’s a tabby with giant green eyes.” Dress by Proenza Schouler; earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels.

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H A I R B Y E S T H E R L A N G H A M ; M A K E U P A N D G R O O M I N G B Y F R A N K B . ; M A N I C U R E S B Y A L E X J A C H N O ; TA I LO R , H A S M I K KO U R I N I A N ; S E T D E S I G N E R , G E R A R D S A N T O S ; P R O D U C E D O N LO C AT I O N B Y P O R T F O L I O O N E ; S P E C I A L T H A N K S T O T H E PA L A C E T H E AT R E , LO S A N G E L E S ; F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S

Coat and scarf by Givenchy; pants and boots by TOM FORD; chain by Jason of Beverly Hills.

MARCH 2020

David

COR ENSW ET

SEEN IN

The Politician, on Netflix UP NEXT

Another Ryan Murphy Netflix series, Hollywood, in May Fantasy closet: Humphrey Bogart’s Favorite place: Los Angeles Greatest indulgence: Flying lessons Prized possession: “The New York subway token that my dad kept as his good luck charm when he was an actor.” Sweater and pants (from tuxedo) by Hermès; shoes by Carmina Shoemaker; brooch by Verdura; socks by Pantherella. Throughout: hair products by Wella Professionals; makeup by Fenty Beauty (Stenberg) and Lancôme (all other women); grooming products by Lancôme Men; nail enamel by TOM FORD Beauty.

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the

By C O R B Y K U M M E R

Photographs by J O O N E Y W O O D WA R D

With Eleven Madison Park changing investors and his new restaurant in its infancy, can DANIEL HUMM reimagine fine dining for the future?

KITCHEN SYNC

At work during evening service at Davies and Brook, Humm’s new restaurant, at London’s Claridge’s hotel. 79

iel Humm says as a custom-designed ebony and brushed-chrome gueridon cart rolls up to our corner banquette at Eleven Madison Park, in the spectacular former lobby of a landmark Manhattan Art Deco skyscraper. Of course the servers would be extra solicitous as they explain the carefully composed platter before us. This was their boss, even if he was in a black sweater and black pants that, on his long athlete’s legs and trim six-four frame, make him look like he’d just come from a mountain bike ride in his native Switzerland instead of the kitchen. “Where would we be without fine dining? It’s a part of our culture.” As two servers carve an enormous grilled golden oyster mushroom that looks like a live sponge delivered by a deep-sea diver, Humm smiles, a look of shy but deep satisfaction on his boyish, malleable face. He knows that his life-changing duck breast glazed with honey and lavender will follow, and that we, like many tables a night, will be ushered on a kitchen tour to admire the chef brigade quietly working against a backdrop of gleaming glass-fronted refrigerators where nearly 150 Long Island ducks air-dry for two weeks. Stately, safe, coddling, full of 80

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that went from ridiculous to sublime and back again in the same several-hour experience caught the food world’s attention. In pursuit of perfection, and stars, the pair removed tables, increased the already generous staff-to-guest ratio, and built a whirring team of cooks and servers—shoals of them, gliding in and out of the dining room as if on invisible roller skates. Diners in New York and then the world made the restaurant a worth-the-voyage destination. Late last summer, Guidara and Humm broke up, a split that shocked the restaurant world. Theirs seemed an ideal marriage of swashbuckling entrepreneurship and obsessive artistry, and that combination had won every prize there was to win. The team had opened the wildly successful NoMad restaurant and bar, whose very name helped revitalize a Manhattan neighborhood, and extended that into NoMad hotels in Las Vegas and Los Angeles. What would become of their Make It Nice restaurant group and of Davies and Brook, a new restaurant in London? If they came unglued, what did that mean for other aspiring chefs and restaurant owners looking for partnerships to propel them forward?

his own drive from the age of 11, when he entered cycling competitions; the kitchen work he took on in a few years was just to pay for equipment. At 15, he left home outside of Zurich to work and to train. He was hell-bent on becoming an international champion—of cycling or cheffing, whichever came first. “I raced all over Europe,” he says with that shy, satisfied smile. “I was doing it.” By 24, in 2000, he was executive chef at a small country restaurant near the borders of Germany and Austria. Gault & Millau named him a “culinary discovery” of the year and Michelin gave him his first star. Convinced by an enthusiastic regular to consider working in San Francisco in 2003, Humm never looked back. Much of this he recounts in his 2019 cookbook-memoir Eleven Madison Park: The Next Chapter. He gives credit to kindly, disciplined chef mentors, but his real role models are artists. A love of design united his parents, who married and had him by the time they were 19. His father was an architect; his mother sewed and wove, like the family of one of his artistic heroes, Louise Bourgeois. UMM, 43, EXHIBITED

MARCH 2020

P H O T O G R A P H B Y J A K E C H E S S U M / C O U R T E S Y O F E L E V E N M A D I S O N PA R K

“THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL part of life,” Dan-

promise—the world diners enter when they come through Eleven Madison Park’s oversize revolving door is one Humm fought to create and maintain. This world is threatened, mostly because ambitious young chefs see fine dining as a game not worth playing. Winning one Michelin star, let alone three, as Humm did, requires a level of perfectionism and consistency in a daily struggle he finds inspiring. You can never reach perfection, he tells chefs, but you can get damn close if every small habit each day—every sliced tomato, butchered chicken, skinned fillet, hand-scrubbed cutting board—is as good as you can make it and better than the day before. Add the investment in staff, the consistency of a vision, the custom-designed ceramics for those gueridons: It takes energy, focus, sacrifice, and money—a lot of money—to get and keep three-star status (Michelin’s highest rating) or win the number-one spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, as Eleven Madison Park did. It seems beyond the reach and—worse, Humm worries—interest of young chefs. Will they fight to create worlds like this? Does the next generation of diners care if this beautiful part of life continues to exist? Whether he can find a way to make fine dining look cool will help determine the future of the style Humm is busily redefining for today, in both New York and London. Eleven Madison Park is now in the full contours of Humm’s image, but when he arrived, in 2006, it was still the creation of Danny Meyer, the pathbreaking restaurateur who reimagined fine dining for New York and the country. At Union Square Cafe, Meyer had Americanized a stubbornly European, usually stodgy way of cooking and eating, replacing fawning and suspiciously servile service with casual, caring grace. By hiring Humm, who had attracted national attention at a San Francisco hotel restaurant, he was placing a bet that haute cuisine could thrive without coats and ties. Humm, who trained as a competitive athlete in his youth, brought intense focus to every detail of serving and presentation. To make the front of house work, Meyer matched him with Will Guidara, a Cornell hotel school grad who had worked in several of his restaurants. Guidara welcomed guests with a go-ahead glint that buoyed you just coming through the door. A tasting menu

Today, Humm calls himself a “searcher of beauty”—his idea of time well spent when not running marathons or working out is driving north to see a new show at Dia Beacon; his closest friends include the artists Roni Horn and Rita Ackermann, whose work played large conceptual roles in his reinvention of Eleven Madison Park and at Davies and Brook, in London’s Claridge’s hotel. Their work appears in his apartment near Central Park (good for training runs), which is austerely beautiful with a minimalist’s design, just like his plates. He recognizes the pretense of a chef calling himself an artist—“Get over yourself, it’s fucking food”—but he clearly thinks like one. Every new project, he hopes, will bring him closer to his dream of creating what the Bauhaus artists called Gesamtkunstwerk—a total work of art. It was art, he says, or the separation of art and commerce, that led to his two business splits: first when he and Guidara bought the Eleven Madison Park business from Meyer, in 2011, and the recent break with Guidara. Humm explains them as buying his creative freedom, which he says “I’ve always

been willing to risk everything to have.” The success of NoMad, he says, allowed him and Guidara to hire more people to support future projects at Eleven Madison Park. Combined with the awards EMP kept winning, it also brought them constant offers to expand, to open various food and wine businesses, to give

“I’ve always been willing to risk everything to have creative freedom,” Humm says. TASTEMAKERS

Will Guidara and Daniel Humm, in 2017, in the Eleven Madison Park kitchen where a picture of Miles Davis hangs.

their names to far-flung restaurants. The question was which offers to take. After a months-long renovation of EMP in 2017, Humm spent seven life-changing weeks meditating in India, out of his comfort zone, he says, every minute of every day. He came back determined to radically “edit” his life—a new cell phone, hundreds of names out of his address book. Everything was open to question. The trip led somewhere he never could have predicted: to Laurene Powell, “the most incredible person I have ever met”— founder of the social-change organization Emerson Collective, majority owner of The Atlantic, and widow of Steve Jobs. India, he says, helped him find himself as a chef and a person, and gave him a “perspective and clarity” that put him on a “path that led me to her.” Powell, he says, has “allowed me to see myself more clearly, and I get to be more myself by knowing her. She inspires me every day.” (This is the first that Humm or Powell has publicly commented on their relationship.) The timing, the meeting, the being together: “It’s kind of magical.” On top of the “incredible energy and partnership and love” he describes, he

felt his inner voice becoming clearer and clearer. It said that commercial success—which he proudly says he has always avidly pursued, because artistic vision doesn’t mean much in an empty restaurant—wasn’t as important as “getting to the place where I can create what I want to create.” He feared turning into a brand—and losing control of it. So he found an investor he had long known (not Powell, he says firmly) to help him buy out Guidara. Initially that put Humm in charge of EMP, Davies and Brook, and the Make It Nice group, which is now planning a new Manhattan restaurant at 425 Park Avenue; in late January, Humm withdrew from NoMad, ceding operations to his former hotel partners. “At the end of the day, we just could not see eye to eye,” Humm said in an Instagram post about the break. Guidara, who plans to open his

“It’s like listening to jazz,” says chef Tom Colicchio about fine dining. “I don’t love it. But if you really listen, you’ll learn.” own restaurants in New York, told me by email: “I’m incredibly proud of what we built together and know that a piece of me and my approach to service and hospitality will always remain at Eleven Madison Park and the other restaurants. But over the last few years, our visions around how we wanted to run the restaurants were no longer aligned, so we made the decision to go our separate ways.”

partnership is essential for any restaurant to stay alive. “The most important thing for a chef is to make good food and run his kitchen staff,” says Bobby Flay, who can write his own ticket thanks to TV celebrity (I am occasionally, and delightfully, pressed into service as a 82

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judge on Beat Bobby Flay) but considers his restaurants to be “the purest form” of himself. “If he does not have someone running finances,” Flay adds, “he cannot be successful—cannot.” Restaurant partnerships, like any marriage—in the classic European tradition, they were marriages—depend on a shared vision of the future and growth. Often business partnerships outlast actual marriages, not surprising in a profession where relentless hours and work make it hard to keep a marriage or family alive. Many successful chefs have divorces on their résumés. “I had a son born the year before we opened,” says Tom Colicchio, the Top Chef star and food-justice activist, of the memorably brilliant kitchen he ran at Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern from 1994 to 2006. “By the time he was two, I’d split up with his mother. Things are strange when you don’t spend any time together.” Humm could tell a similar story: After having a daughter at 19 with a woman he fell madly in love with at 14, he had two more daughters with a woman he married while building and running Eleven Madison Park before they amicably divorced.

HE IMPERTURBABLY GENIAL Meyer

explains his 2011 separation from Humm and Guidara a bit differently. He is sitting in the meeting area of the headquarters of his global Shake Shack colossus, in lower Manhattan, radiating his usual gyroscope-steady cheer. “They wanted to buy their entrepreneurial liberty,” he says. “You would have to say that Daniel has zero capacity to compromise his standards.” Meyer, who keeps working even after a $1.6 billion IPO of Shake Shack because “I need to feel incompetent every day,” says his own definition of fine dining has evolved to “experiences that feel celebratory.” But “one thing that hasn’t changed: What I most crave is belonging. Restaurants, more than ever, need to make me feel recognized, cared for, and valued.” Colicchio questions the star-striving trappings of fine dining but nonetheless respects Humm’s pursuit of perfection. “It’s like listening to jazz,” he says. “I don’t love it. But if you listen to it, really listen, you learn.” Eleven Madison Park is where Colicchio does his listening. “I find what Daniel is doing very exciting,” he says. “I hate sitting through three to four hours, but once a year I’ll do it. If you care about food, you cannot not go there.”

RAISING THE BAR

Top, from left: a lobster dish at Eleven Madison Park; the Eleven Madison Park staff in 2019; the bar at Davies and Brook.

MEALS OF FORTUNE

At Davies and Brook, clockwise from bottom left: caviar and accompaniments; Humm, bent over at left, mingles with dinner guests; a chef plates scallop-butter; a black cod preparation; a maple old-fashioned cocktail. MARCH 2020

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KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL

Humm confers with bar director Pietro Collina during a staff meeting before dinner service at Davies and Brook.

could cost $10 million. I don’t know how you can do it.” As for fine dining, that’s hard in an age when everything has to be Instagrammable (“Are we tasting the food anymore, or just taking pictures of it?”) and delivery to your door, not your table, is the norm. The second you order in, “You’ve discounted the quality by 30 percent,” Flay says. “It won’t be cooked the way you want it, the temperature won’t be right. But you put up with it.” Because fine dining in a restaurant will be so much more expensive in order to pay labor and real estate bills, Flay says, the future will be “the people who are too young to pay their own restaurant checks now” and who will think of restaurant dining as another form of high-end entertainment. As costs and challenges mount, successful business partners become not just helpful but crucial for any chef. For lessons on how pairs can flourish and

surmount disagreements, they could look to the most successful creative and financial restaurant partnership I know: Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas of The Alinea Group, in Chicago. Achatz and Kokonas have known each other for 18 years and worked together most of that time; they’ve opened six restaurants, including Next and The Aviary, and have several more in the works. How do they keep their marriage alive? “A lot of sex,” Kokonas shoots back. (He’s married; Achatz is divorced.) The secret is having, as Humm and Guidara did not, similar ideas about how to sift through the opportunities people call to offer—“crazy stuff,” Kokonas says, and all the time. But “mostly we prefer to do our own crazy stuff.” They view dinner at Alinea as a performance, with deliberate theatricality they wouldn’t talk about on spoiler-alert grounds. The idea of a restaurant as theater goes with Humm’s description of Eleven Madison Park as a Broadway show—something you go to once, maybe twice a year. It goes with Flay’s prediction that fine dining will be an infrequent, luxury-priced experience.

PA G E S 1 1 2 – 1 3 : P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E S Y O F E L E V E N M A D I S O N PA R K ( T O P C E N T E R ) , B Y E VA N S O N G / C O U R T E S Y O F E L E V E N M A D I S O N PA R K ( T O P L E F T )

“I’m very proud of Daniel,” says Daniel Boulud, the revered and entrepreneurial French-born chef. From the moment Humm arrived in New York, Boulud recognized his talent and ambition and made him a special protégé. But Boulud’s own next steps do not involve creating another fine-dining experience, or at least not admitting to it. Later this year, Boulud will open a restaurant with the developer of One Vanderbilt, the new Midtown Manhattan building, his first that will not be solely financed by his longtime investors, the Smilow family. What kind of restaurant? “How do you call when it’s serious but not pretending to be fine dining? When you say fine dining now, everyone thinks, Oh—fancy.” Instead he’ll go with, maybe, “refined dining” or “French actuelle.” Unless your name is Daniel Humm, it seems, fine dining dare not speak its name. Flay points out how much more challenging any kind of ambitious restaurant is for a chef today than when he started. “When I was 25, it cost $280,000 to open Mesa Grill,” he says of the restaurant that made his reputation. “Now it

OW DO THE HUMMS of the future,

including a rising wave of chefs of color, view fine dining? Two of the most prominent—Edouardo Jordan, whose JuneBaby, in Seattle, won the 2018 James Beard Foundation Best New Restaurant award, and Kwame Onwuachi, who won last year’s James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year award for his Kith/Kin, in Washington, D.C.—both say they were deeply influenced by Eleven Madison Park. Onwuachi actually worked there, and Humm became a mentor. “As a chef, I’ve always loved going to fine-dining restaurants,” Jordan recently told me. “Some knocked me out of the park.” The multicourse, family-style meal he gave 250 people in Oxford, Mississippi, last October at the Fall Symposium of the Southern Foodways Alliance knocked me out: It was one of the most memorable meals I’ve had in the last decade, from definitively flaky biscuits with cane syrup to irresistibly gnawable pork neck bones. Jordan inarguably cooks at the highest level of any chef in the country. But going for the degree of perfection a Michelin star or best-restaurant ranking requires is, he says, “not always achievable, and always stressful—for servers, cooks, and for guests: What if they don’t get the experience they expected?” He doesn’t see it as part of his own future. “I’ve worked in fine-dining restaurants I knew personally did not make money,” he says. “Owning a restaurant is a business. Period. I love doing fine dining—working little pop-ups, making food beautiful. But I cannot expect my cooks to make that kind of food every day and give me a future. I don’t want to be stuck at the stove 40 years from now.” As for Onwuachi, his first high-profile restaurant in Washington featured courses even more numerous and service even more reverential and much more garrulous than his former workplace, Eleven Madison Park. It had prices to match, and it closed quickly. Three years ago, he opened Kith/Kin with a sharper story and a shorter menu. “Fine dining is shifting its definition,” Onwuachi says. “We’re focusing on the culture of the food.” Onwuachi first met Humm as a dazzled student at the Culinary Institute of America, and when he got a job with him, followed his advice about being a chef. “He said, ‘A chef should know his country’s MARCH 2020

cuisine.’ ” So the young chef took gigs doing pop-ups cross-country and learned the food of his ancestors from Nigeria and Trinidad, among other places. Now, echoing Meyer, he says his goal is for customers to feel at home. Servers greet first-time customers with “Welcome home” in the hopes that they will “walk away with a memory—a happy memory.”

This world is threatened, mostly because ambitious young chefs see fine dining as a game not worth playing. Jordan and Onwuachi managed to support themselves working for chefs like Thomas Keller and Humm, and found enough money for their own restaurants. They’re the exception. “If I can’t afford to send my kid to New York City to apprentice for six months unpaid,” Onwuachi says, “or even cover their food or subway card, that eliminates their opportunity to learn at that very high level. That’s another reason we’re misrepresented in this industry.” A lack of mentors who look like them is a huge obstacle to young chefs of color, both chefs say. (One recent sign of hope: Meyer’s only full-service restaurant outside of New York City, Maialino Mare, in Washington, has an African American executive chef, Rose Noel.) How to change the system to give more chefs of color better opportunities? Onwuachi sighs. “If I had the answer, I’d be doing it right now.”

‘T

dining of the future,” Humm says as he shows me around the ultra-elegant dining room at Davies and Brook, barely a week after it opened. The room, a similar luminous gray to Eleven H I S I S T H E T H R E E - S TA R

Madison Park with severely grand pillars, echoes both the New York space and the marvelously silly, silvery 1929 fittings of Claridge’s, one of the great Art Deco interiors of London and the world. The room is discreetly buzzing; the server shoals, choreographed by Billy Peelle, the former general manager of Eleven Madison Park, float in and out. But the atmosphere is less hushed, less reverent, less formal than stuffy and expensive London restaurants are, and more casual than EMP, with a blessedly shorter menu diners can keep to three or four courses. Humm wants Davies and Brook to be a place regulars can come every week, and a few weeks later he excitedly reported that one diner had already been in six times. Its prices— this is London, one of the world’s most colossally expensive cities—might not make that possible for most. And then there’s the expectation that this hugely anticipated restaurant by a celebrated chef will offer a world-class experience. But something about the brasserie-like ease of Davies and Brook gives a view of how fine dining can be cool for the future—and creating that, Humm told me, has become his new idea of winning. Doing it at Claridge’s is particularly sweet: He worked in the basement kitchen for a few summer months when he was 15, chopping tomato concasse and trimming bread for tea sandwiches. This early in, it was clear that Humm and his longtime team are making their vision work. Local critics and bloggers, well-wishing chefs, and even Lauren Hutton, a longtime Humm fan, were being ushered in and out of the kitchen, where Dmitri Magi, the former chef de cuisine at EMP, who had moved his family months before to open Davies and Brook, looked exhausted but happy. Humm, who knows how to play the game he says all artists have to play to succeed, was circulating, spreading his long arms in enthusiasm and leaning his lanky frame into the table to show that no one was more interesting to him than the diners he was talking to. Well after midnight, Humm, Magi, Peelle, and the staff were huddling around one of the gleaming stainless work tables in the newly outfitted kitchen, going over the service with the comfortable familiarity of a team after an exhausting, satisfying game. This time the smile wasn’t shy. Humm was doing it. Q 85

With Harvey Weinstein on trial in New York, 30 of his more than 100 accusers spoke with RICH McHUGH about the harrowing details of their abuse—and their long road to justice Amber Anderson LYSETTE ANTHONY Asia Argento ROSANNA ARQUETTE JESSICA BARTH Kate Beckinsale Juls Bindi ZOË BROCK Cynthia Burr Liza Campbell ALLY CANOSA Emma de Caunes ROWENA CHIU Marisa Coughlan Hope Exiner d’Amore Florence Darel Wedil David Cara Delevingne Juliana De Paula Sophie Dix Lacey Dorn Kaitlin Doubleday CAITLIN DULANY Dawn Dunning Lina Esco

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Alice Evans LUCIA EVANS Angie Everhart Claire Forlani Romola Garai LOUISETTE GEISS LOUISE GODBOLD Judith Godrèche Trish Goff LARISSA GOMES Heather Graham Eva Green AMBRA BATTILANA GUTIERREZ Mimi Haleyi Daryl Hannah Salma Hayek Lena Headey Anne Heche Lauren Holly Paz de la Huerta DOMINIQUE HUETT Amy Israel Angelina Jolie Ashley Judd Minka Kelly KATHERINE KENDALL Heather Kerr Mia Kirshner Nannette Klatt Liz Kouri JASMINE LOBE Ivana Lowell Laura Madden Natassia Malthe Julianna Margulies Brit Marling SARAH ANN MASSE Ashley Matthau ROSE M c GOWAN Natalie Mendoza Sophie Morris Katya Mtsitouridze EMILY NESTOR Connie Nielsen KADIAN NOBLE Lupita Nyong’o LAUREN O’CONNOR Gwyneth Paltrow Samantha Panagrosso ZELDA PERKINS Vu Thu Phuong Sarah Polley Monica Potter Sandeep Rehal TOMI-ANN ROBERTS LISA ROSE ERIKA ROSENBAUM MELISSA SAGEMILLER NESIC Annabella Sciorra Léa Seydoux LAUREN SIVAN Chelsea Skidmore KAJA SOKOLA MIRA SORVINO Tara Subkoff MELISSA THOMPSON Uma Thurman Paula Wachowiak Wende Walsh PAULA WILLIAMS Sean Young Plus six women who remain anonymous

“What I want is that you say Jeffrey Epstein, Jack the Ripper, and Harvey Weinstein all in the same breath.” AN ORAL HISTORY OF A PREDATOR MARCH 2020

In the two years since Harvey Weinstein was exposed as a sexual predator, more than 100 women have accused him of a host of crimes, ranging from sexual harassment to rape. In the run-up to his trial in New York City, which began in early January, I conducted interviews with 30 of them—including one who is coming forward for the first time to share her story of being sexually assaulted by Weinstein when she was 16. I’ve been working on this story for years, beginning as an investigative

disillusioned, never to return. All of them struggled, mostly in secret, with the implications of his abusive behavior. “I feel like I’ve been on the run from him most of my life,” says Lysette Anthony. Weinstein, who is also facing charges in Los Angeles, continues to deny the allegations of rape and nonconsensual sex.

want to happen, even though I was saying no. He sexually assaulted me. LAUREN SIVAN: My encounter with Weinstein was completely by chance—I happened to sit next to him at a dinner. He was very charming, and I was flattered to be holding my own with this titan of Hollywood. He said, “I’m an investor here. Have you seen the restaurant? There’s a whole area downstairs.” At that point I had no reason not to trust him. But when I got downstairs, I realized it was a mistake. It was an abandoned kitchen. There was a guy sweeping up, whom Weinstein told to get lost. He blocked my way out and started to kiss me. I said,

“He started begging. ‘Just close your eyes,’ he said, ‘and it’ll all be over producer at NBC News. But these conversations, conducted over the course of several weeks, were among the most gutwrenching I’ve ever been a part of. Taken together, they tell a story of pain and strength and the catharsis of truth telling, as #MeToo lifted the burden of having to keep what Ally Canosa calls “the deepest, most shameful secret of my life.” These women come from all parts of the globe, filled with all manner of ambitions, from acting and modeling to screenwriting and producing. But there’s a chilling sameness in their stories of being assaulted by Weinstein: his flattery and mentoring, his invitation to meet in his hotel room, his open robes, his requests for massages, his pleading and bullying and use of physical force. “Plain and simple,” says Katherine Kendall, “he’s from the animal kingdom.” After their encounters, many of these women left the movie business, deeply

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But for these women, his trial represents a first step toward rewriting the narrative—not just for the man who preyed on them, but for the broader network that aided and abetted him. “Why did so many accept his twisted alternate reality?” asks Melissa Thompson. “These systems must be disassembled and his army of conspirators broken down—one individual at a time.”

T h e A BU S E I’m from a small city in Poland. Since I was seven years old, my dream was to be an actress. Modeling was something that just happened in my life—at 15, a modeling agency decided to sign me. The next year I met Harvey at a party. He invited me for lunch to discuss my acting possibilities. Things happened that I didn’t

KAJA SOKOLA:

“I’m so sorry if you got the wrong impression. I’m really not interested that way.” Of course, I’m apologizing. Then he said something really strange, which was, “Fine, can you just stand there and be quiet?” And that’s when he started masturbating in front of me. LYSETTE ANTHONY: Harvey Weinstein knocked on my door one gray London morning, pushed me against my coat rack in my little basement hall, and raped me. And then walked out. ALLY CANOSA: I was sexually assaulted by Harvey Weinstein over a number of years to the most severe degree— coerced, manipulated, bullied, and emotionally abused. It was the deepest, most shameful secret of my life. I really thought that as long as I never told anyone, it could never catch up with me, and I would be able to live a normal life.

He invited me to the Peninsula in Beverly Hills. He told me how much potential I had. He asked if my breasts were real and wanted to see them. That’s when the incident happened. He wanted a massage. I was cornered in his hotel room. In that situation it’s flight or fight—I just froze. I remember getting out of there and not telling anyone because it was very shameful to me. EMILY NESTOR: I was a new employee. He suggested an exchange of sexual relations for mentorship—textbook sexual harassment. ROWENA CHIU: I worked for Harvey as an assistant when I was 24. I was flown to his hotel suite in Venice, where I worked from 10 in the morning until he went to bed at 2 that night. His business, as it were, was conducted while he was naked or in an open robe. The very first night wasn’t without its DOMINIQUE HUETT:

after-party at his hotel. It’s tough to talk about this part because it’s like everything changes, you know? He assaulted me in his hotel room that night, and he performed oral sex on me without my consent. Then he masturbated and finished himself off. MELISSA THOMPSON: I was a starry-eyed young entrepreneur who took the opportunity to pitch a movie mogul with a technology start-up. Ultimately the deal was successful, but I was also raped. ERIKA ROSENBAUM: I went to Los Angeles as a very young actress from a small town in Quebec. I sat next to him at a dinner, and it was the same story as all the other women: He was interested in me as an actor and thought he could help me out. Then he invited me to a meeting that basically turned into a closed-door attack. Not only did I fear that he would ruin my career, but I also thought, Nobody knows

said, “You can’t get out of here until you kiss me.” I knew I wasn’t getting out of there unless I did. So I kissed him, and he was like, “Fine, leave.” I guess he wasn’t in a raging mood that day, so I got out. I never went up to his room again. JASMINE LOBE: After two years of rejections as an actress, here comes the king of Hollywood who basically says, “I can help you.” We were having lunch, and he put his hand on my leg. All of a sudden I realized I was in danger. That’s when the assault took place. He put his hand through my dress and squeezed my right breast. I pushed him away and said, “No, I need to go.” But he was really big, so I felt like I needed to do it in a way that didn’t upset him. He grabbed my hand and he brought me into the other room. He got on the bed, took off his shirt, put his arms around me, and…God, I

quickly.’ He seemed to think that was a persuasive line of thought.” pageantry. He wanted me to give him a massage and tried to touch me inappropriately. The second night he started to speak very coarsely. “I’ve never had a Chinese girl, so you’re going to be my first.” He started begging for one thrust: “It’s such a small thing to ask, and I can do so much for you. Just close your eyes, and it’ll all be over quickly.” He seemed to think that was a persuasive line of thought. I got away by telling him that I had to report for work at 6 a.m. In the end he said, “Okay, we can pick this up tomorrow.” CAITLIN DULANY: I was doing a reading of a screenplay, and he introduced himself. It’s a haunting moment in my life because I always think, What if he hadn’t? That would have been a lot better for me. A few months later I was sitting at a table at Cannes with Leonardo DiCaprio and Elton John, and he came over and invited me to an

MARCH 2020

where I am. If I piss off this guy with a notoriously bad temper, he could leave me in a ditch somewhere and nobody would ever find out. MELISSA SAGEMILLER NESIC: I did a movie with Harvey when I was 24. It was constant harassment; it was daily visits to my trailer. Eventually it was, “Harvey needs to see you in his hotel room.” I said, “Why can’t we just meet in the lobby?” His assistant said, “He just had a meeting with Brad Pitt and Tarantino up in his room. That’s where he meets everyone.” I went upstairs, and it was like what happened to everyone else—he came out in his bathrobe. He started following me around the room and saying, “If you really want to take your career to the next level, you should sleep with me, because that’s how it works. Charlize did it and Renée did it and Gwyn did it.” When I tried to deflect, he

don’t think I can continue to talk about it. But I will tell you, at the end, basically, I pushed past him and got out. He met me in the elevator and said, “I’m proud of myself for behaving.” I remember thinking, Does he mean he’s proud for not raping me? KADIAN NOBLE: When I met Harvey, I thought, Wow, this is it. This is my gateway I’ve always hoped for. I was completely open to that man—he was a person who makes dreams a reality. But he had no interest in anything but trying to get what he wanted from me sexually. He molested me, although I was saying no and wanted to leave. I wasn’t able to get out of it until he decided he was finished with me in that hotel room. LARISSA GOMES: I met Harvey Weinstein while I was working on one of his films. I was very young. When the assault happened he did most

of the things you’ve heard are his M.O.: He had a headache, went into the bedroom, asked me to come in. Now he was in a robe. He tried to give me a massage and was chasing me around the room. I was scared. He’s 300 pounds, and I’m five-three. Then he tried to kiss me. “Look at this face,” he said. “Who could kiss a man with a face like this?” I said, “Your wife, hopefully.” I managed to get out. I remember getting in my car and bawling and being really afraid. I don’t remember anything after that because I was in shock. LAUREN O’CONNOR: I started working at the Weinstein Company as an executive when I was 26 years old. It was a dream job. Then one night a young woman came knocking at my door and described what is now known as “a massage incident.” In that moment I couldn’t unsee or unknow what was

I squirmed away, but I was trying to be polite. I didn’t want to offend him, which is so ludicrous to look back on now. I ended up running out of there like a maniac. I was scared he might come and get me in his car, so I ran all the way down the Hills in heels until I got to Hollywood Boulevard. ROSANNA ARQUETTE: He tried to take his penis out, and he threatened me and he said I was making a big mistake for my career. I want to know what happened to this man to become who he is now. What happened to people like Hitler or Charles Manson? Because the rape of a woman or molestation of a young child literally obliterates their lives in many, many ways. LOUISETTE GEISS: He invited me to meet him in his hotel lobby to pitch him my script. When we arrived they were closing up. So he said, “Let’s reconvene in my office.” I looked at him and

He just brushed it off. I was one of the lucky ones. But one day I got somebody to cover for me at work when I went off to do an audition. I was thinking, I don’t have to tell her anything because Harvey’s not in London. I later learned that Harvey had flown into town and had her taxied to his hotel. She ended up taking off her top and giving him a back rub. I’ve lived with that on my conscience ever since. SARAH ANN MASSE: I had just moved to New York and started my own theater company. I was looking for a second nannying job to pay my bills, and the first person my agency sent me to was Harvey Weinstein. I met him at his home for my interview. It is a little traumatic to go back through all the details of how he assaulted me. I will say one thing—he knew exactly what he was doing when he got me there. He was in his underwear, and he grabbed

“His assistant admitted to my face that it was a pattern—that happening. It became clear that other people were in pain. I filed a lengthy complaint with HR cataloging what I had witnessed and heard, and I left the company. LUCIA EVANS: I was sexually assaulted by Harvey Weinstein in 2004, when I was an aspiring actress. It was the summer before my senior year of college. PAULA WILLIAMS: I was 18 or 19, a struggling actress in L.A. He was like, “Oh, you’re new to town. I can introduce you to people who can help you get work.” He invited me to a dinner party and sent me a car to a house up in the Hollywood Hills. Nobody was there. I was like, “Am I early?” I got scared right away being alone with him. And he had arranged it so I didn’t have my car. When I came back from having a cigarette, he exposed himself and started to force himself on me. It’s still uncomfortable to talk about.

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said, “Listen, I will take this meeting if you’ll shake my hand that you will not touch me. There’s a camera right up there, so it’s on camera that you shook my hand.” He kind of laughed it off. I did not know that he had raped women. So up we went to the office. Then he excused himself to go to the bathroom and came back in nothing but a robe. Which I now realize is iconic for his predatory behavior. I was very scared. He grabbed my arm, dragged me to the bathroom, wanted me to watch him masturbate. Finally I ripped my arm away and got out, luckily. I’d worked so diligently for years on my script, and I realized, I can’t even go pitch the damn thing without being told I have to masturbate this guy. LISA ROSE: He just said, “Will you give me a back rub?” I was shivering and shaking. It was real fight or flight. He didn’t keep pushing me when I said no.

me and pressed his body up against mine and whispered in my ear that he loved me. I was not just blocked behind his front door—I was blocked behind the gate leading up to his mansion. TOMI-ANN ROBERTS: Between my junior and senior years of college, I was doing auditions in New York and waiting tables. Bob and Harvey Weinstein would come to the restaurant. Harvey encouraged me to audition for a role. I was invited to a party at his apartment, only to discover that it wasn’t a party at all. A maid let me in, and Harvey called to me from down the hallway. I walked into the bathroom, and he was in the bathtub. It’s hard to describe how frightening something like that is when you’re 20. I felt like a terrifying monster was in front of me. I thought, Oh, my God, this is how the big time works. He kept begging me to take my shirt off. I apologized and backed

out of there and called my boyfriend from the nearest pay phone. The audition was a few days later. The casting director told me, “You know you’re not getting this part, right?” And that was that. The takeaway was, “You’re not cut out for this.” ZOË BROCK: I was taken to Cannes by my modeling agent. One evening at a dinner, I was seated next to Harvey. We all went out on the town and then back to Harvey’s suite for a nightcap. After the others left, that’s when Harvey made his move. He walked out of the room and came right back in naked. I was able to lock myself in the bathroom, but he was right behind, chasing me, banging on the door. That’s when I got angry. To this day I don’t know how I did it. I screamed at him, “Put your fucking clothes on, you naughty fucking boy!” It pulled him up short. He became quite meek. He said, “Yes,

T h e A F T E R M AT H I feel like I’ve been on the run from him most of my life. I find it impossible to have a feeling for myself. It’s still locked in some deep well of filth and shame. DOMINIQUE HUETT: I left Hollywood after that. I thought, How can I make it in this business if it’s like this? The only thing I ever wanted to do was be an actress, and it never happened. So I kept his secret. It takes a toll, and you don’t even realize it until you look back and see that maybe that’s why everything wasn’t working out. Not just career, but relationships, your family. KADIAN NOBLE: When I left that room, I was never the same again. It destroyed me. I lost trust; I lost hope. If you don’t have hope, you lose yourself. LYSETTE ANTHONY:

New York—I didn’t have friends there; my family was back in Poland—I felt isolated from the world, and I had a lot of suicidal thoughts. The only reason I’m still here is the help of my sister. Even if you learn how to accept what happened, there are some wounds that never really heal. CAITLIN DULANY: It was life-changing because I couldn’t make sense of it. I just left it all behind: friends, my dreams, everything. I felt as though I had lost something—like promise, or intelligence, or feistiness. I lost myself. MELISSA THOMPSON: Before, I was trusting and optimistic. Afterwards, I was scared of everybody. JASMINE LOBE: He said, “Promise me you’ll never write about me.” For years it ate away at me. That is what started my writing career, oddly: this gnawing that I needed to write this story. I showed it to a friend, and she gave

they worked together in unison to do that. It was organized crime.” I will. You’re right. Absolutely. I’m so sorry.” It was mind-bendingly fascinating. When I came out he was sitting on the bed in a robe. I’m like, “What the fuck is wrong with you?” And he started to cry. He said, “You don’t like me because I’m fat.” That was one of the weirdest things that’s ever happened to me in my life. I actually felt sorry for him in that moment. And I should never have felt sorry for Harvey Weinstein, because he is a bad, bad person. He called up one of his assistants, Rick Schwartz, and they drove me back into town. Rick was ashen. As I said in the class action lawsuit, he turned to me and said, “I’m so sorry. Of all the girls we’ve done this to, it shouldn’t have been you. You deserved better.” He admitted to my face that it was a pattern—that they worked together in unison to do that. It was organized crime.

MARCH 2020

LUCIA EVANS: Things got even more trau-

matizing when they made me walk the crime scene, at Harvey Weinstein’s old office in Tribeca. It was absolutely horrible. Afterwards I sat on the subway, surrounded by people, and cried. LAUREN O’CONNOR: I was scared that filing a memo with HR would impact my ability to be successful or even have a livelihood. I was issued a nondisclosure agreement. I couldn’t discuss what occurred—not even with my family or closest confidants— and therefore could not adequately process it. I learned later that Black Cube, the Israeli private intelligence firm Harvey hired to dig up dirt on people, had been keeping tabs on me. I now look over my shoulder in a way I never used to. I think it will be a very long time before that changes. KAJA SOKOL A: I was confused and ashamed. As a very young girl alone in

me a column in a publication. It was that traumatic experience that led, in a way, to me finding my voice. LARISSA GOMES: Despite Harvey Weinstein’s best efforts, I’m still standing. All of us are still standing. PAULA WILLIAMS: Like any fire you have to walk through, it made me stronger. I became a producer because I felt that being an actress made me vulnerable to people like him. I wanted more control over my career. LOUISE GODBOLD: People ask me if I was traumatized by the incident with Harvey. Yes and no. I did not develop PTSD, because I got away—I was able to assert control. What I didn’t have control over was having to see his face in the news for two and a half decades after that. ALLY CANOSA: Any time the press writes about Harvey Weinstein, they put a nice big picture of his face on the

article, and just looking at his face is traumatizing. The work I do in therapy includes desensitizing myself to those things so I can move around the world normally. SARAH ANN MASSE: If I heard his name or saw him on television, I would get sick to my stomach and anxious. It was clearly right there under the surface, ready to creep up anytime. ZOË BROCK: I stopped trusting in the powers that be. I see what money and power can buy, and I find myself doubting everyone’s motivations. I don’t trust judges, or lawyers, or the guy next to me in the café who smiles at me, or a lady on the bus, because they might be Mossad agents. Any last shreds of naivete have been stripped from me. TOMI-ANN ROBERTS: I kept doing theater, but I got my Ph.D. in psychology. For the rest of my life, I’ve studied the

“Oh, no, we can’t hire them. They’re too political.” It’s frustrating because Time’s Up and #MeToo were built on the backs of all the men and women who were brave enough to come forward. And we’re paying the price with our careers, our health, our livelihood.

The DECISION ALLY CANOSA: I arrived at a place where I

knew that if I didn’t speak up, I would effectively be telling him that what he did to me was okay. Choosing to speak out was an incredibly difficult decision. I entered into this knowing full well that Harvey Weinstein would do everything he could to discredit my claims, hiding behind his enablers, his money, his lawyers, and now his insurance company.

children. He attacked a 16-year-old. Need I say more? M E L I S SA SAGE M I L L E R N E S I C : When this all broke out, it was a cathartic moment for me. I wanted to tell my story because I felt that people needed to know how rampant it was. I put my hat in the ring with the class action suit to create a fund for women who are not able or too afraid to come forward. ERIKA ROSENBAUM: I told my kids, “A long time ago I was bullied in my business, and I was ashamed. I didn’t stand up to him at the time. Keeping the secret made me feel really bad. Then one day, years later, a bunch of other women came out and said this guy bullied them too. And that gave me the confidence to speak up.” I told them you should never ever keep a secret for a bully. Because at the end of the day, this is the story of a bully.

“It can’t all rest on his conviction. True justice means making sure his enablers will sexual objectification and sexualization of girls and women. ALLY CANOSA: To have my name appear in the press has been terrifying. I have been trolled. I have been sent messages by men on social media telling me I’m a whore, a slut, a gold digger. At times it has been almost unbearable. MELISSA SAGEMILLER NESIC: I didn’t work for a year afterwards. There were a couple casting directors who were fans of mine, then suddenly they weren’t fans anymore. ROSANNA ARQUETTE: My heart is broken that I am not able to do the work I would love to do. I want to be able to continue in the industry I’ve chosen. SARAH ANN MASSE: I was blacklisted for speaking up. I have not had an audition for a year and a half. Friends have been in rooms where the name of one of the silence breakers will come up. And the casting director will go,

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When you speak out, people say, “You’re so brave.” Think about that for a second. You are sexually assaulted or harassed, and if you go and you report that, it’s considered brave. What is the underlying message there? It is that if you speak out against these powerful people, something bad will happen. It should be that if somebody abuses you, reporting them is the norm. It’s no longer brave—it’s just what you do. That’s my goal. LYSETTE ANTHONY: When I saw those first news reports, when I saw him being so fucking patronizing about Ashley Judd, I just thought, Oh, no, you don’t. And that’s when I rang the police. LOUISETTE GEISS: I’m the lead plaintiff of the class action suit. It is my duty as a human being who was raised by good parents to stop this predator, so that he does not do it to other people’s JESSICA BARTH:

It was time to tell the truth. Because it hurt more to stay silent than it did to speak out. ROSE M c GOWAN: The soft young woman I was died after being raped by Harvey Weinstein. There wasn’t a funeral for that girl. I had to carry that dead part in me around for years until finally it came time to scream it out by going public. PAULA WILLIAMS: One of my best friends was like, “Yeah, we’ve all been through that, Paula. What’s the big freaking deal? Put your big-girl pants on and hold your head up high.” And it’s like, no, I want to stop this. I don’t want the next generation to have to feel bullied or judged or shamed. We already put on the tough face; we already pretended it didn’t bother us. I don’t want to do it anymore. KAJA SOKOLA: It was a difficult decision to go back to these moments again because they were so painful. But KATHERINE KENDALL:

I decided to speak up and reveal my name for the first time because so many other women had already opened up. There was a chance to really be heard. I decided to listen to what my heart says. I decided that my voice might help others. LUCIA EVANS: I honestly never thought I would publicly speak out. I could not have done it without all the people around me who were so supportive. People think it’s just like a lone-star type of deal, and it’s not. LAUREN O’CONNOR: My identity was outed in the press—the New York Times chose to publish my name against my consent. It shattered my world, wiped out my finances, and left me with PTSD. When your private traumas are made public, you walk into every room knowing that people have already decided who you are before meeting you. You are labeled a witness, or a

we reached was 30 pages long and very detailed. But the legal system didn’t allow us to confirm that he actually did any of the things he was contractually liable to do. ZELDA PERKINS: The tragedy is that Rowena and I, as far as I’m aware, are the only people who actually tried to stop Harvey in the moment, by the only means we had available. I felt that this is bigger than Weinstein. From day one my drive has been the larger, more sinister story about the system that enabled him to prey on so many women for so many years.

The MOVEMENT Women have broken their silence, and now we know. The bottom has dropped out of tolerance. That’s the work that women all over

LOUISE GODBOLD:

gotten to know many of the other women over the past two years, and they are all exceptional in their own right. Smart and talented and passionate and creative, but protective of each other. It’s been an amazing experience to have this army of women on your side. ZELDA PERKINS: The message is still “Stand up.” The more people stand up, the faster it will become normal. EMILY NESTOR: So many women put so much on the line. It shows what you can do when you band together. I hope that we don’t swing too far in one direction or get too militant, but that we also stay strong and hold people responsible for what they’ve done. I hope reporters keep digging. I hope survivors keep speaking out. I hope people keep listening. CAITLIN DULANY: It’s sort of unbelievable that we were all assaulted by the same man. The fact that we’ve all come

never come back and support him. It has to be scorched earth around Harvey.” whistle-blower, or a victim, or a survivor, and reduced to a headline. It was indescribably hard. ROWENA CHIU: When I told my coworker Zelda Perkins what happened, she was much more shocked than I expected her to be. It was clear that someone she was responsible for had very nearly been raped. She marched down and confronted Harvey at the lunch table where he was meeting with some pretty big Hollywood names. She wasn’t afraid to grab the bull by the horns. We talked right then about going to the police, and within two weeks we sent a fax to the New York office saying that Zelda and I were invoking constructive dismissal due to his behavior. It was like detonating a bomb in the office. We wanted to require him to go to sex therapy and demanded that he never travel unaccompanied with a single woman, ever. The agreement

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the world did. You do not create cultural shifts by passing a law. You don’t do it through sexual harassment training. You only create a cultural shift when there’s a critical mass of people coming together and deciding that this is not what we want our society to be like. LYSETTE ANTHONY: There are 100 of us— all these different voices and accents and ages. We had never met, and we’re all saying different versions of the same thing. I’m proud of our collective courage. LUCIA EVANS: I’m an only child, but I feel like I have sisters now. ALLY CANOSA: This movement I am now a part of is so much bigger and deeper than what happened to me and these women at the hands of one man and his company. It’s a part of the structure of society. LAUREN SIVAN: We joke that he really did have great taste in women. Because I’ve

together and want change to happen out of this is really profound. ERIKA ROSENBAUM: We represent many women who are still in the shadows about what happened to them. They are not ready to come forward. And you know, not everybody has to. MIRA SORVINO: This is a historic moment when predatory power and influence has been trumped by honesty and courage. I send my most heartfelt support to those valiant truth speakers like Annabella Sciorra who dare to face a monster. I am in awe of my fellow silence breakers, moved by the love and solidarity found in that community, and heartened by all of the milestones we have been able to achieve together: the laws we have helped to pass, and the resources we have created, not only to protect all people, but to change the culture. LISA ROSE: I really hoped that by exposing everything C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 0 5

A year after one of Sheik Mohammedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s daughters attempted to flee Dubai, his wife Princess Haya escaped to London. Now the royal couple is battling over their children in Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest royal divorce since Charles and Diana. Vanessa Grigoriadis explores why Emirati noblewomen are running for their lives

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Princess Haya bint al-Hussein of Jordan, Sheik Mohammed’s “public wife,” in London last July.

BUMPY RIDE

Haya in the Sydney Olympic Games, 2000. Opposite: Sheik Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum with Haya at Royal Ascot, 2007.

competing in this year’s Royal Ascot, the red-coated postilions driving the Queen of England in her carriage, and the rabble in immense grandstands, one man stands in the event’s most exclusive VIP area wearing a black silk hat. Sheik Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum, the leader of Dubai, more often wears the traditional headscarf and white robe, or kandura, of Dubai, one of the seven states that make up the United Arab Emirates—but for the most important race of the season, he makes an exception. The sheik is a progressive who bows to the laws of capitalism as well as the mosque, and so unlike the dictators of old that he writes his own poetry. “Mohammed is articulate, erudite, and suave—a Davos type,” says a businessman who has dined with him in Dubai. He’s also one of the biggest racehorse owners in the world, and friendly with the queen, who adores horses so much she rarely misses an event—and she has also, over the past 30 years, made $8 million in betting rounds. The sheik was able to be with his friend the queen today, but someone else was absent—the sheik’s own queen of a sort, his “public wife,” Princess Haya bint al-Hussein, whose father, King Hussein, was the truly progressive leader of Jordan for decades. Haya, who at 45 is about 25 years younger than her husband, is the first Arab woman equestrian to compete in the Olympics, representing Jordan in show jumping during the 2000 Sydney Summer Games. She seemed like the perfect wife for the sheik: a paragon of the new Arabia, independent but also devoted to her man. “She was a breath of fresh air for him, because she’s not the kind of Arab girl you’re going to get anywhere else,” says a friend of Haya’s. Educated at the University of Oxford and with highlights in her hair, she’s also the first woman in Jordan to hold a driver’s license for heavy machinery—to transport her own horses to shows. “Haya is very intelligent,” says Sven Holmberg, who served with her on the International Federation for Equestrian Sports. He says she would arrive to meetings via the sheik’s jet and donated millions toward a home in Lausanne, Switzerland, for the federation’s use—though Holmberg says he clashed with her over the use of controversial drugs in the sport, which she apparently supported more than him. Yet Mohammed was without not only Haya today, but also any of his other wives, which have numbered at least six over the years, nor any of his reported 30 children. News was pinging around the world that Haya had fled Dubai months earlier, and, curiously, her departure seemed connected to the alleged fate of two of Sheik Mohammed’s daughters by one of his other wives. The younger of the two, Sheikha Latifa bint AMID THE FINE HORSES

Mohammed al-Maktoum, 34, had even attempted to escape Dubai in 2018 on a boat registered in the U.S. and piloted by a French American captain. Soon, Mohammed would sue Haya in a high-profile London court for the return of their two children, 8 and 12. British papers are calling the divorce one of the highest-profile royal breakups since Prince Charles and Princess Diana, and, with Sheik Mohammed’s fortune most recently estimated at $4 billion, the most expensive separation in the history of their country. The picture starting to come together of Sheik Mohammed was less progressive, where women are concerned, than one had imagined.

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Sheik Mohammed and Haya’s parting of ways is a winding tale, full of unexpected twists and turns and the font of so many rumors that I could barely keep them straight. The Persian Gulf states are involved in an information warfare campaign at the moment—in particular, the UAE and Saudi Arabia are pitted against Qatar—and conspiracy theories in many realms abound. It’s possible to even hear impassioned explanations of how the real killers of Jamal Khashoggi, the dissident and Washington Post columnist, were actually Qatari spies who framed the Saudis to get back at them for the Saudi-led blockade of Qatar. (And, by the way, part of why the Saudis blockaded the country was said to be jealousy over Qatar landing the 2022 World Cup.) Theories about Haya’s departure too have come hot and heavy. Dubai is the Gulf ’s shining beacon of merchant capitalism, if not democracy, with relatively open borders, a massive expat population, and fanciful real estate projects like the world’s tallest building and the world’s largest choreographed fountain system. But in the public square, some topics can be off-limits—such as Mohammed’s wives and daughters. The sheik himself has made his opinion on such loose talk known: “It is said that human scorpions dwell on the earth in the form of gossipers and conspirators, who trouble souls, destroy relationships, and subvert the spirit of communities and teams.” (Neither Sheik Mohammed nor Haya responded to requests from Vanity Fair for interviews.) Yet in private among Arabian experts, royal-watchers, and journalists in the West, each move in Haya’s departure from Dubai has been scrutinized. If Haya’s escape has something to do with Sheik Mohammed’s daughter Latifa fleeing on the yacht, is it possible that the downside of the sheik’s monarchical prerogative may be felt through the heirs, as it is so often? The sheik needs to run his state and keep his offspring from embarrassing him, and he may do that in a strict and potentially brutal way. Many are also questioning why Sheik Mohammed, who is known to keep close tabs on his citizens, would have allowed Haya to leave when Dubai has more surveillance than anywhere on earth, with 35,000 cameras trained on street corners. (Washington, D.C., has about 4,000.) If he had an inkling things were awry in his marriage with Haya, wouldn’t he have asked one of his ministers to monitor his wife’s digital footprint and even revoke her privileges on their (multiple) private planes? And, in yet another theory, British papers have made much of Haya’s alleged relationship with a bodyguard. In a poem about HE STORY OF

an unnamed woman Sheik Mohammed put online around the same time that Haya disappeared, he wrote, “O you who betrayed the most precious of trust / My sorrow revealed your game.” He continued, “You loosened the reins of your horse.”

Mohammed had their first romantic spark at an equestrian event in Spain and married in 2004. “I was surprised Haya was marrying someone who was so Arab, because I always thought she’d end up with an English landowner,” says the friend of Haya. “But she was crazy about Sheik Mo—madly in love with him.” Mo loves pomp and circumstance, and Haya was a bit quirkier and more down-to-earth; she didn’t mind cracking jokes at her own expense, such as when her father gifted her a horse, named Scandal. She explained that she’d told him, “Daddy, every princess has a scandal and if you want mine to come with four legs rather than two, you’d better buy it for me.” Haya and Mohammed’s nuptials were not arranged, but before they became a couple, oil-poor Jordan was in financial distress, and these days, the UAE is reportedly one of the country’s largest investors. Though Haya was raised in Jordan as the adored daughter of a king, the sheik’s family in Dubai ran a very different kind of monarchy. Jordan’s royal family is closer to the British model: Princes and princesses have patronage, run organizations, and are highly visible (the American-born Queen Noor, who became Haya’s stepmother after her mother, Queen Alia, died in a helicopter crash when she was a toddler, comes to mind). But Dubai’s monarchy is mostly closed and private. Sheik Mohammed married his first wife, Sheikha Hind bint Maktoum bin Juma al-Maktoum, in a five-day ceremony including 100 camel races in the 1970s; since then, she has rarely, if ever, been in a photograph seen by the public in 40 years of marriage. They have 12 children together. Though women in Dubai are increasingly becoming business and government leaders, the Emirates also enforce the law of male guardianship, which means that husbands and fathers control the destiny of their wives and daughters. Women can only work with permission of their husbands; must have a lawful excuse for refusing to submit to sex with spouses; and any unmarried woman, Emirati or expat, who appears at a hospital pregnant in Dubai can be arrested, including a woman having a miscarriage. Perhaps most importantly for Haya, any woman who divorces her Emirati husband and seeks to remarry must grant full custody of her children to the first spouse. I spoke with two Emirati women who requested anonymity for fear of retaliation from the state. The first said she left Dubai at 18 for Europe, where she received asylum and is hoping to study as an engineer. “You can see a free woman without the hijab in the Dubai malls, but behind closed doors, you cannot know what’s happening,” she says, adding that after puberty, she was not allowed to leave her home without permission and a guardian. She explains the rationale for this thusly: “Honor is a big thing in the Arab world, and family honor is within the girl—her virginity is the family’s honor,” she says. “If that honor is gone, the reputation of the family is gone. So, the girl has to pay the price.” The second woman is the daughter of a royal. She said she left the Emirates in her late 20s because “regardless of my age, I was 98

AYA AND SHEIK

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ROYAL WELCOME

Sheik Mohammed and Haya, with daughter Sheikha Jalila (in blue), at a trophy presentation at the Meydan Racecourse in Dubai, 2018.

an Arab dissident. “You’re not supposed to socialize. You don’t have a normal life.” Though some women in Dubai’s royal family are educated abroad and have public profiles, others simply bear children, spend their monthly stipend, and remain quiet. “If you want to be in favor, you buy into what the king does. If you’re not, you’re pushed aside and nobody really cares about you—you’re not a high-profile monarchy anyway,” says a source with knowledge of Dubai’s royals.

HEIR KISSES

Haya and Queen Elizabeth II at Royal Ascot, 2016.

Y THE TIME Haya became involved with Sheik Moham-

med, if not before, one would think she would have known all of this, but perhaps she was too in love with Mohammed to realize the enormity of her choice in marriage. “I think Princess Haya falls into the category of the type of princess who learned that once you marry into the family, you have to play by their rules. And their rules include selfpreservation at all costs,” says the source who has an understanding of the region. But Haya must certainly have been aware that by the time they wed, something odd had already happened to one of the sheik’s daughters. In 2001, according to The Guardian, Sheik Mohammed’s daughter Sheikha Shamsa bint Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum, a tall, dark-eyed college student and equestrian who once ranked behind Princess Anne in a long-distance horse race, abandoned her black Range Rover near the stables at the al-Maktoum Surrey estate. When the vehicle was discovered the following morning, Sheik Mohammed boarded a helicopter from another racing area to join the hunt. Shamsa was eventually found in Cambridge, after which she was reportedly snatched by bodyguards and returned to Dubai; her father followed up by moving 80 horses off the property and firing nearly all of the estate’s staff. When this news spilled into the press—via Shamsa hiring a London barrister and also reportedly calling British police from Dubai—there was an outcry. In London, the government

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treated like a child.” She adds, “Anyone who comes from the high-up royal level I come from is restricted from doing anything, culture-wise, that can annoy the public.” After beginning a covert romantic relationship with a British man, she ran to England. “I left an email in my sister’s inbox explaining everything: I hated the country, the injustice, the lack of freedom, and the Emirati men,” she told me. Her family, astonished, did not inform their community. “My family has decided to hide the fact that I left them due to our differences, and instead have been creating stories of me—studying in London, continuing my higher studies, living with a maid in an apartment (all paid for by my parents) when people ask about my disappearance,” she says. More recently, pondering her actions, this woman did ask her mother for forgiveness. Her mother responded that she felt her daughter had exposed the family to “unforgettable shame, disgrace, and dishonor.” In the palaces of Dubai’s royal family, among Mohammed’s brood, some of the same cultural and religious ideology is prevalent. Even though princesses have high status in the country, their situation is not necessarily to be envied. “You have the fancy title of being a princess, and of course you have people waiting on you [hand and foot], but you’re essentially a prisoner,” says

They locked the door, but the coast guard threw a stun grenade. Their cabin began filling with smoke. opened an investigation into whether she had been taken out of the country “against her will.” But the investigation apparently languished, and Shamsa remained in Dubai, though she has not appeared in a photograph circulating on the internet or elsewhere in the intervening 18 years. This was curious on its own, but not as strange as the case of Shamsa’s younger sister Latifa. Known as a daredevil for her expert skydiving, Latifa even appeared on the cover of the local newspaper, says Jim Krane, a research fellow at Rice University’s Baker Institute and author of City of Gold, a fascinating contemporary history of Dubai. “Latifa was portrayed as an über-princess who, like her brothers and dad, had taken on the world, doing risky things like skydiving and enjoying life,” says Krane. In the sheik’s royal family, extreme sports were not only accepted but considered a virtue. Behind the scenes, however, Latifa claimed to have a terrible relationship with her mother and barely any relationship with Sheik Mohammed, according to Tiina Jauhiainen, a Finnish woman who was Latifa’s personal capoeira instructor—and who, bizarrely, became part of Latifa’s escape plan. Latifa would later speak bitterly of how she was simply one of the three daughters that the sheik named Latifa, which he’s explained means “friendly, kind, and supportive” in Arabic—and was his mother’s name too. “My mother was unique, tranquil, and gentle,” he wrote in one of his books. “My mother loved all her children deeply, but I always felt I was closest to her heart…. She ate only after we ate. She rested only after we were asleep, and she rejoiced only after our grief had dissipated.” Yet this skydiving daughter, this Latifa, would be someone quite different.

level of Arab royalty, men often house their wives in different palaces, and this is thought to be the case with Sheik Mohammed, says Jauhiainen. “Mohammed has so many official wives and unofficial wives— all these families are separate and barely know each other,” she says. “The wives and daughters might meet at public events like weddings, where the women’s wedding is separate from the men’s. How they know each other is very much based on their social media profiles: ‘Oh, this person has a better life, this person gets to travel.’ ” At Latifa’s family’s palace, Filipino maids satisfied her every care, says Jauhiainen. Latifa’s family even had their own leisure center with a pool, yoga room, and rooms for hairdressers and manicurists. But Latifa wanted little to do with the fivestar lifestyle: She spent most of her time at the family’s stables, caring for horses and her pet monkey. She became a vegan, T THE HIGHEST

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cooking her own curries, and said she liked animals more than humans, according to Jauhiainen. She was also plotting something dramatic. Claiming that Shamsa had been kept under house arrest and drugged after her escape, and that Latifa herself had also been imprisoned in solitary confinement and beaten when she tried to escape to Oman and stick up for Shamsa, Latifa announced her own departure from the country. It was a quest that was many years in the making and involved a cast of unexpected characters, including not only Jauhiainen but French former spy Hervé Jaubert, who has said he was employed in Dubai making submarines before he was accused of embezzlement—a charge he denies. Years earlier, Latifa read Jaubert’s book Escape From Dubai, in which he wrote about Sheik Mohammed with disdain—even commenting on the time the sheik was caught doping horses in a race and suspended from the sport. “…After his ban is expired, it is unlikely that Sheik Mohammed will ever run in another horse race again if he can’t have this public arena to further inflate his ego,” wrote Jaubert with a poison pen. In his book, Jaubert was also highly sympathetic to women in Dubai, declaring, “Emirati women are tired of being married to their cousins, traded for camels, and being treated like chattel.” He explained that for his own departure from the country, he camouflaged himself as a woman, “dressed in black from head to toe with an abaya—veil, ponytail, perfume and all.” He did this for one express reason: “This was the best way to go around Dubai without being questioned or even addressed by another person. It was like being invisible.” Jaubert’s book must have been heady reading for Latifa. And after surreptitiously corresponding with Jaubert for several years, on February 24, 2018, according to Jauhiainen, she and Latifa had a royal driver drop them off at a café where they often met for breakfast. In the bathroom, Latifa took off her black abaya, applied makeup, and put on tinted sunglasses. She also dropped her cell phone into a garbage can. Then, Jauhiainen says, the two of them drove to the Omani border, where they met Jaubert, who would pilot the yacht, and one of his crew, who brought along Jet Skis. They rode the skis about 15 miles out to the boat. “It was very rough sea, in the middle of the ocean—just the craziest day ever,” says Jauhiainen. They planned to go to Sri Lanka, and after that, the United States. Latifa had thought about heading for the United Kingdom but was worried that her father’s connections would make it hard for the country to allow her to remain, Jauhiainen says. This motley crew sailed for eight days, eating granola bars after finding the galley overrun with roaches. Nervously, via a slow-moving internet connection, they tried to get in touch with Western journalists who might spread word that they needed protection. They thought the satellite connection they were using, which came from the U.S., wouldn’t be penetrated. But about 30 miles off the coast of Goa, India, with Jauhiainen and Latifa below deck in their bunk, they heard gunshots. They locked the door, but the Indian coast guard threw a stun grenade. Their cabin began filling with smoke. The friends made it up the stairs to the deck, staggering from coughing so hard. Upstairs, the sky was black except for the tiny red laser dots of the guns that Indian men were pointing at them. VA N I T Y FA I R

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Lying on the deck, Latifa kept repeating, “I am seeking political asylum,” but the men wouldn’t listen. Soon an Emirate warship pulled up, and those men began to board the boat. “One of the crew members said, ‘These men are here to save us from the Indians,’ but of course that’s not what was happening,” says Jauhiainen. Dubai reportedly had gotten in touch with India’s prime minister, Narendra Modi, with the alarming news that one of Sheik Mohammed’s daughters had been kidnapped. “India is dependent on UAE remittances from their citizens making money in Dubai and sending it home—there’s seven-to-one Indians to Emiratis in Dubai,” explains Jim Krane, the City of Gold author. “That’s a lot of funds coming back home. They’re eager to help Dubai where they can.”

“You’re essentially a prisoner…. You don’t have a normal life.” Latifa disappeared with some of the men. Jauhiainen and the rest of the crew remained on the boat while the Indians looted it, taking electronics and even Jauhiainen’s makeup. The boat was then piloted to Dubai, where they were blindfolded, cuffed, and imprisoned, Jauhiainen says. That evening, Jauhiainen’s interrogation began: “They wanted to know who was behind this and what the ultimate goal was. They couldn’t believe I was just helping my friend who wants to be free.” She says the guards talked about Latifa as if she were a minor who didn’t know what was best for her or know the meaning of freedom. To them, she had all the freedom a woman could possibly need while living in the UAE.

Jauhiainen or any of the crew would have been let out of prison if it weren’t for a clever trick of Latifa’s: Before her departure, she posed in front of a white wall next to pink drapes, her black hair pulled back in a ponytail, and recorded a 40-minute video explaining her problems with Dubai and the sheik. “If you are watching this video, it’s not such a good thing. Either I’m dead or in a very, very bad situation.” She added, “Freedom of choice is not something that we have. So when you have it, you take it for granted, and when you don’t have it, it’s very, very, special.” Latifa comes off as smart, frustrated, and extremely rational. And between this viral video, now with more than 4 million views, and, some months later, a BBC documentary—which spurred the United Nations to request that Sheik Mohammed furnish proof of life of his daughter at once—Dubai began to feel pressure to publicly respond. (Jauhiainen was soon sprung from prison, though she says guards tried to scare her upon release, saying, “What happened to Princess Diana was not an accident.”) In the Arab world, behind closed doors, many questioned whether Latifa was indeed arrested in the Indian Ocean; unlike Saudi Arabia, the UAE is not known to often track down citizens 102

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Seeking forcedmarriage protection for her children, Haya arrives at London’s High Court last July.

who have left the Emirates. But reporting indicated that the story was true. “People assume the richer you are, the more freedom you have [in the Gulf region], but it’s almost the inverse—the more powerful the family, the more they can force you to return to the country,” says Rothna Begum, women’s rights researcher for the Middle East and North Africa region at Human Rights Watch. Whether Latifa was a reliable narrator was a more persistent issue—many couldn’t believe the sheik would treat his own daughter with cruelty. “That’s not the M.O. of Arab princes, to torture their kids,” says the source with knowledge of the region. “We’re all familiar with claims of Saudi and UAE princes doing all kinds of crazy stuff in hotels in London, abusing Filipino maids, and weird things in L.A. But the families have good ways of covering that up: paying people off, dismissing people.” Sheik Mohammed had allegedly experienced the bad behavior of princes with his eldest son, who had a reputation for partying. A Wikileaks cable revealed that the son allegedly shot and killed one of the sheik’s assistants, after which Mohammed passed him over as his likely heir in favor of his younger brother. The elder son died after a heart attack at 33. With Latifa back in Dubai yet remaining out of sight, Sheik Mohammed came under pressure—and his court thought it prudent to release a statement saying they were “aware and deeply saddened by the continued media speculation regarding Her Highness.” They were simply trying to create a “stable and happy future” for Latifa, in privacy and peace. The court also claimed the captain of the ship and others had asked for a ransom of $100 million to return Latifa; Jaubert has reportedly maintained he was only paid about $390,000 from Latifa for expenses related to her escape. The statement from the sheik’s court fanned the flames of speculation. Now everyone wanted to see Latifa, to know she was copacetic with her return or at least alive. And while Latifa and Haya reportedly barely knew each other and had met only at formal events, according to Jauhiainen, Haya, whose global reputation was utterly spotless until this point, stepped into the breach. As a U.N. Messenger of Peace, she had become friendly with Mary Robinson, the first female president of Ireland in the 1990s.

P H O T O G R A P H B Y C H R I S J . R AT C L I F F E / G E T T Y I M A G E S . T H R O U G H O U T : C O LO R D E TA I L F R O M I S P I YA P H O N G / G E T T Y I M A G E S

Both Haya and Mohammed had relationships in Ireland: The sheik had invested in the Emerald Isle since the mid-’80s, and Haya trained there as a young woman. Now, Haya apparently asked Robinson, who left politics to become a respected humanitarian, to fly to Dubai and sort out the situation with Latifa, which Haya called a “family dilemma.” It’s unclear if, before her trip to Dubai, Robinson knew she would be asked to take pictures and make a public statement. But after a day of walking through the family’s gardens and talking to them, Robinson sat down at lunch while photographers snapped shots of her with Latifa. Robinson smiled courteously, but Latifa, for her part, looked confused. Her hair was barely brushed. Her skin was pale, likely indicating she’d been indoors rather than out, and her normally lithe, athletic frame had rounded out. She wore jeans and a dark purple sweatshirt, a somewhat inappropriate costume for a formal photographed lunch. In perhaps a reflexively self-protective move, she’d zipped her sweatshirt all the way to the top. Though Robinson had little exposure to Latifa, she explained to the press that Latifa was “troubled.” Robinson continued, “She made a video that she now regrets and she planned an escape, or what was part of a plan of escape.” Robinson said Latifa needed psychiatric care, and she was comforted that Dubai’s top family was administering this. Now, this was quite the bit of royal theater and, in the West, considered overwhelmingly strange. “They have argued that Latifa has a mental health issue, but regardless of whether it is true, it does not excuse why she should be prevented from traveling—she should still be able to say, ‘This is the way I want to live my life,’ ” says Human Rights Watch’s Begum. “The question of mental health is beside the point, and it should not be used to deny her freedom.” In Ireland, Robinson was immediately called a stooge for the Dubai royal family—and Haya raced to her defense. On a top Irish radio program, Haya did her best to defend her friend. She said she’d called Robinson because when “faced with a situation in life that’s so profound and it’s deeply attached to your values, your family, and situations that are complex and difficult, I’ve always learned in my life to ask for counsel.” Haya added, “It is a private family matter and I don’t want to go any more deeply into it for the protection of Latifa herself, and to ensure she’s not used by anyone else.” Even as the interviewer pressed her for more information about Latifa, Haya refused. She simply kept stressing that she was “really, really, very, very sorry that my actions have led to the criticism of a person that I so deeply respect and admire,” meaning Robinson. Haya also added, “If I thought for a second any shred of this was true,” meaning Latifa’s story about feeling oppressed, misused, and imprisoned, “I wouldn’t put up with it or stand for it.”

Haya left Dubai. She didn’t flee to Jordan, her home country and where her half brother Abdullah II is king, but perhaps, given Jordan’s reliance on the UAE for financial support, she felt she couldn’t put her brother in the awkward position of choosing alliances. Instead, she went to Germany, a country without strong ties to Jordan or the UAE. But for reasons that are unknown, possibly related to Germany not accepting her or her choosing to move on, Haya then left for Britain—a riskier EVERAL MONTHS LATER,

MARCH 2020

Dubai Princess

location, given that Sheik Mohammed is a major property owner there who could make his influence felt. The Guardian reaported that private Dubai channels requested that the U.K. return Haya to the UAE, though a spokesperson for the UAE embassy denied this. Given Haya’s sudden departure, it’s possible she indeed found out something about Latifa that she couldn’t “put up with or stand for.” And some, like the friend of Haya, do not believe she would have even invited Robinson to Dubai to meet Latifa unless she were forced to do so. “The whole thing with Mary Robinson was completely bizarre and out of character for Haya,” she says. “It just struck me as a very bad PR move that someone else—not Haya—came up with, and backfired.” And yet, Haya reportedly left Dubai with so much money—almost $40 million—that others wonder if Haya and Sheik Mohammed hadn’t actually worked out their separation before she departed. In Dubai, there was some friction over the marriage: Haya wanted to open institutes and travel the world, and two sources say that Sheik Mohammed’s sons were not enthusiastic about these pursuits. As the sheik grows older, those sons gain in influence. Haya could just be an opportunist looking to leave her husband who saw an opening to gain moral high ground—by making everyone think she fled in solidarity with Latifa. But if Haya surreptitiously worked out her separation from Sheik Mohammed, what is one to make of his next move: suing her in London for custody of their two children? Over the summer, he demanded they be returned to him in Dubai. “The question for me, and everyone else, is why did he make this application?” says David Haigh, a British lawyer who was once imprisoned for accusations of fraud in Dubai and is now working on a campaign to free Latifa. “It just seems odd that he’s putting himself up to international scrutiny. I mean, he must be so arrogant.” Sheik Mohammed might have wanted to make it clear to the world he will not allow his wives to leave the country with his offspring without consequences. The Arab dissident characterizes his personality this CON TIN U ED F ROM PAGE 103

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way: “Mohammed has two sides to him: He wants to say, ‘I’m a hip, cool, progressive guy’ and also ‘I’m the state leader and tribal chief.’ But trying to be both a modern guy and a traditional guy at the same time just doesn’t work.” Though Dubai still has a reputation in the U.S. as an important Gulf ally, its power has waned in recent years. Dubai does not have much oil. It is dependent on a tourist economy. In fact, neighboring emirate Abu Dhabi almost completely dominates the country today—and its leader, Mohammed bin Zayed al-Nahyan, is essentially the leader of the UAE. Controlling sovereign wealth funds of $1.3 trillion, bin Zayed’s ideology is at odds with the frank capitalism of Sheik Mohammed. Bin Zayed’s agenda includes aggression against Iran, the blockade against Qatar, and stirring up the crisis in Yemen. An important voice in D.C., which his country frequently lobbies, he has been successful in securing President Trump’s endorsement of many of his positions. After Haya left Dubai, her half brother King Abdullah II needed to shore up support in the UAE— but he didn’t travel to Dubai to kiss Sheik Mohammed’s ring. Instead, he flew to Abu Dhabi, writing on Twitter, “I pray to God for a lasting friendship and love between our two brotherly countries and peoples, as it has been between our two families over the years.” With tension between Abu Dhabi and Dubai, one might think that bin Zayed helped Haya advance her plan to leave the country. But a Dubai expert says this is unlikely: “Abu Dhabi and Dubai have a rocky relationship right now as Abu Dhabi tries to usurp Dubai’s key sectors by building up their own tourism, airlines, media, aluminum—basically anything but diamonds— and compete with Dubai directly,” he says. “But poking a hard stick into Sheik Mohammed’s love life sounds a little implausible.” And as usual, there is little information to be had. “This is a major scandal in both Jordan and the UAE, to the point where people are not even speaking about it,” says the Arab dissident. “If you speak about it publicly, you are in trouble—in both countries.” living in a Kensington Palace Gardens mansion purchased from Indian steel tycoon Lakshmi Mittal and worth about 85 million pounds. Jordan has made Haya an envoy at its embassy, which allows her to claim diplomatic immunity and protection under the Geneva Convention, and remain in the U.K. Little more is known about what she suffered, even though a series of posts on a fake news website have included crass talk about her sex life—and even the rumor that Latifa has been killed TODAY, HAYA IS

and buried on the grounds of Sheik Mohammed’s Zabeel Palace. Jauhiainen does not think this is true. “For sure, she is imprisoned in a secret location,” she says. Mary Robinson has refused to comment further on the matter of Latifa’s mental state and escape but made her allegiance to Haya, not Sheik Mohammed, clear in Dublin over the summer: “I really have nothing more to say about that,” she told an interviewer. “I have never been friends, except with Princess Haya, one friend, who is still my friend.” Haya has responded to Sheik Mohammed’s suit by asking for a type of protection usually used for domestic violence victims and by requesting a forced marriage protection order for her children, even though the sheik isn’t known to force children into marriage—that’s not the way he operates. What he allegedly did to Latifa, however, is likely to be very important to Haya’s case, and, if true, could establish in court that any children of Haya returned to him in Dubai are in danger. Haya’s friend says that she thinks Haya left Dubai to protect her own children, even though her daughter, Sheikha Jalila bint Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum, is “obviously Mo’s favorite.” “Here was Haya raising this very intelligent daughter who was getting to see the world through a more regular set of eyes than his other kids, and especially his other daughters,” she says. “The last thing Haya would want is for her daughter to be stuck in Dubai after leaving university, and then shunted off to marry a cousin. Haya would walk barefoot over coals for those kids.” The friend explains that Haya’s mother’s death, when Haya was only two years old, left a large emotional scar. “When Haya had her daughter, she said, ‘I finally understood how much my mother loved me.’ ” The friend continues, “But Haya’s own daughter could never have the life that she had—live in Ireland and in France, learn to do show jumping, drive her own horse trailer around, then go and get married. It was never going to happen.” Haigh, the attorney working on the campaign to free Latifa, says what’s important for people to understand about Dubai is “just because they have big towers and do concerts on the beach with Champagne, it is not a democracy. It is a police state run by a couple of men who are accountable to no one. And that means that, ultimately, the only one who can open the door to Latifa’s cage is her father.” Haigh talks for a bit about the experience Latifa and others had on the boat when it was seized off the coast of India. “There were six people on that boat,” he says. “We got five people off, but for Latifa, nothing works, because there’s no person in charge of Sheik Mohammed.” Q

Weinstein

he was doing, we would change the culture for women. But I don’t think it has. People who have that amount of power are still able to use their power to do what they want. PAULA WILLIAMS: We approach it not as victims, but as voices of change. As long as we all speak up, we can change this. We don’t have to play this game anymore. MELISSA THOMPSON: I went to the hospital recently. I thought I had appendicitis, but it turned out to be a large tumor in my spine. It’s breast cancer that has metastasized to my bones and lymph nodes. I start radiation next week, but there is no cure. Now I’m looking at everything I do through the lens of the legacy I will be leaving for my amazingly happy, strong, beautiful daughter. She’s only four. I will not leave my daughter a world in which the systems that allowed one bad man to prey upon women for decades remain intact. I want my daughter to know that good will overcome evil. I want her heart to genuinely trust without fear. I want her to know that her voice—the voice of good—will be heard and will matter. ROSANNA ARQUETTE: We opened up a huge Pandora’s box. It’s out, and the world is never going to be the same. For the many predators who have not been named yet, there is nowhere left to hide. CON TIN U ED F ROM PAGE 93

THE TRIAL

Our nation is watching this trial. Whatever happens, it’s going to set a precedent. And I am hoping with every fiber of my being that the precedent is, “If you rape women, if you abuse your power, then you go to jail.” Because if Harvey Weinstein can’t go to jail, with a hundred women coming forward, then what is going to stop other predators from preying on women? LAUREN SIVAN: He should go to jail. The way he cavorted around town in New York ahead of his trial—he was thumbing his nose at the accusations. We’re all kind of holding our breath for this trial. It’s not going to be easy, and we have to brace ourselves for a not-guilty verdict. But if it goes the other way, and he is convicted, it will send a strong message that this is over. LYSETTE ANTHONY: His lawyer seems to me like Cruella de Vil. How can a woman JESSICA BARTH:

MARCH 2020

sit there and say, “If you don’t want to be a victim, don’t go to his room”? It’s so absolutely, quintessential Harvey. What they’re going to say is, “Oh, this big, fat, ugly, awful guy. Poor man. These really ambitious bloody actresses, all hurling themselves up. It’s all about career advancement.” His lawyer says, “Maybe what he did was not great behavior, but it wasn’t a crime.” It was a crime. I kind of get fueled by rage. [She pauses, overcome by tears.] He should be made to hear what he’s done. JESSICA BARTH: If you calculate the years he’s stolen from so many people, I think he deserves to spend the rest of his life in jail. KAJA SOKOLA: I just hope that justice will come to his victims. And that the women will stick together and support each other. And that this case will be a milestone and change forever the way men in positions of power treat women who are climbing the ladder of success. DOMINIQUE HUETT: It’s going to set a precedent that these are crimes, and it was illegal that he did this to women over the course of a few decades. Justice to me would be a better number for the civil suit, as well as criminal penalties. He took away people’s dreams. ZELDA PERKINS: Whether Harvey goes to jail or not is kind of a moot point to me. Real change is legislation and regulation. There’s always going to be a Harvey. There’s always going to be a Trump. There’s always going to be a Matt Lauer. There’s always going to be men or women within their realm of power who lose sight of how they should behave. The whole point of law is that we created it to protect ourselves from ourselves. And if the law doesn’t work, we’re screwed. I’m pleased that Harvey is being brought to account. But it’s the whole environment of abusive power that needs to be brought to account. That includes our justice system—it’s on trial as much as Harvey is. EMILY NESTOR: I wish he was capable of understanding the pain he’s caused people— that he wasn’t entitled to it, that he didn’t help women, that he tortured them, put them in these horrific situations, hurt them physically for years and years and years—and feel some guilt or regret for it. I think the likelihood of that is slim. He seems incapable of recognizing any culpability. JASMINE LOBE: He’s said that he feels he’s a scapegoat. He’s not. He’s a criminal. I want to see him held accountable because if he isn’t, it basically gives a green light to all the predators who have money and power. KADIAN NOBLE: He doesn’t need to get out. He’s a disgusting predator. He has no morals. He has no empathy. He’s no good to humanity. He just needs to be locked away, and that’s it. CAITLIN DULANY: I’m glad that Harvey has had to defend himself to the tune of millions and millions of dollars. I’m glad that his life

has unraveled. I feel that all of us women who spoke out had everything to do with that. It’s unbelievable to me that he denies that any of this was nonconsensual—it’s so unbelievably offensive and difficult to swallow. But I can let go of that if he is convicted of his crimes through a fair trial. KATHERINE KENDALL: This is not just about the entertainment industry. This is not just about one producer. This is about all of the women and men who have ever had a perpetrator put them in a position that caused them great shame. I think there will be an uproar if he doesn’t go to jail. He’s delusional and thinks he’s above the law. He’s a very intelligent, dangerous, abusive man, and I think he’s a predator. Plain and simple, he’s from the animal kingdom. ERIKA ROSENBAUM: I hope it goes the right way. It’s time for a change. It’s not right that we and our daughters are going through the world looking over our shoulder and at a disadvantage because we are in this female body. That shouldn’t be a risk factor. But whichever way it goes, the work will continue. The warriors are not going to put down their weapons. LARISSA GOMES: The world is watching. This could be a revolutionary cultural moment. ROSE M c GOWAN: That we’ve collectively come to this moment of justice is staggering. The trial means so much to so many, but it will mean the most to the brave women testifying. I thank them deeply for standing for all of us survivors, and especially themselves. LAUREN O’CONNOR: What gives me a lot of heart is the progress that’s been made, as evidenced by the very fact that he was indicted. A decade ago that would never have happened. And look at the recently announced settlement—it’s a watershed moment. Reparations for sexual assault, harassment, and abuse have been issued and are not tied to NDAs. That means there is acknowledgment and compensation being given to victims without silence being demanded. And that is remarkable. AMBRA BA TTILANA GUTIERREZ: Justice for me is very simple: to treat this person as a common man who assaulted and harassed more than 100 women. He abused his power, and he should get what he deserves. PAULA WILLIAMS: I want justice to be served. But I’ll be perfectly honest: I don’t really care what happens to him. I don’t like that he’s taking up any more of the space in my head than he already has. So I’m kind of looking at the trial from a distance. I’m protecting myself. I don’t want to be let down. ROSANNA ARQUETTE: Harvey Weinstein is a broken, miserable, angry, and deeply damaged human being. He deserves to be held accountable for his actions. This is a man who abused his power more than anyone we’ve ever seen, besides the president of the United States. His destructive behavior 105

Weinstein towards all of the women he’s hurt, abused, and blacklisted is something that he, every day, has to look at himself in the mirror and say, “This is who I am.” LYSETTE ANTHONY: I want to scrub that historic rancid semen. I’m sorry, I know it’s coarse language, but I think it’s time to start using language like that because that’s what we’re talking about. We’re talking about a man who literally sprayed the world wide, who stood in front of women in corridors and masturbated in front of them, who frightened them, who threatened them. There are all these words that people use, like coercive control. But I’ll take a blunt word, which is blackmail. He has hurt and maimed, for what? Certainly not for pleasure. This is not about sex. This is a man who could have paid for anything. Anything. The one thing you can’t buy, though, is real rape. LOUISETTE GEISS: There’s a systemic problem here. If we don’t do the right thing, then our daughters will face the same damn crap 20 years from now. I believe we’re on page 35 of a 110-page script. We opened a window with Cosby; we’re opening the door with Harvey. Now we’ve got to blow the house down by page 110. LOUISE GODBOLD: Our society says, “Let’s strip him of his assets and deprive him of his liberty,” and that’s what we consider justice. But it can’t all rest on his conviction. There’s another layer. True justice would be using whatever means possible to deprive him of his power and influence, so he cannot hurt other young women. Not because he’s evil incarnate, but because he needs to be stopped. And that means making sure that his enablers will never come back and support him. It has to be scorched earth around Harvey. MELISSA THOMPSON: What I find exceptional about Harvey Weinstein is the bad systems that facilitated his predation. Why did so many accept his twisted alternate reality? As we reflect on the concept of justice around his criminal trial, we mustn’t forget

that the systems that knowingly enabled evil are not on trial. These systems must be disassembled and his army of conspirators broken down—one individual at a time. ROWENA CHIU: There’s a risk of setting too much store by the ending to this story being Harvey behind bars. Harvey’s one guy. We started a huge movement, and I’d like to think there’s a seismic shift in culture and society that will continue to be perpetuated, whether or not one perpetrator goes to jail. MIRA SORVINO: Our ultimate goal must be to move beyond the triage. We want to prevent sexual violence and harassment in the first place, and establish a true egalitarian meritocracy where all voices are heard and all people are free to pursue their dreams. ZELDA PERKINS: I feel passionately, after what I’ve learned in the last two years, that nondisclosure agreements should be absolutely illegal within the workplace with regard to abusive and discriminatory behavior. It is a basic human right to be safe at work. You cannot have people abusing their power and then silencing the men and women they abuse. Nondisclosure agreements, which were created to protect trade secrets, have now been weaponized and turned into a completely unethical, amoral tool which allows these people in positions of power to act with impunity. SARAH ANN MASSE: He needs to be behind bars for the rest of his life. But I’d also like to see people focus on the humanity of the people who were abused, instead of focusing on Harvey and his attempts to get pity. Retaliation against whistle-blowers is systemic. We’re the ones who need justice. JESSICA BARTH: I would challenge women in positions of power to recognize the retaliation women face and to start hiring women whose careers have been completely derailed. TOMI-ANN ROBERTS: Justice for me is the world’s recognition that Harvey Weinstein could not have done what he did alone. That there is a whole machine—not only people who worked for him, but an entire culture that supports the systematic harassment and assault of women by powerful men.

I’m looking forward to one of these men to say, “You know what, I participated in horrible behavior, and I want to be a better human being.” I do believe there are really great men out there, men willing to change and work on themselves. We need them now more than ever. ERIKA ROSENBAUM: The majority of my interactions with men in this business have been respectful, professional, and fun. It’s important to mention all the good guys. We don’t want to be alienating our allies. We want all the good guys to be a part of the conversation. We need you. ZOË BROCK: The people who helped him keep his secrets have a choice right now. They can come forward and say, “Yes, this happened. I’m sorry.” And you know what? If Harvey’s assistant, Rick Schwartz, who drove me home that night, did that? I’d forgive him. If he came forward and told the truth, I would cry and I would hug him. My gratitude would be eternal. ALLY CANOSA: I want a true acknowledgment from Harvey Weinstein, and those who abetted him, as to the level of pain that was caused on so many people’s lives. That said, I don’t think he’s capable of a mea culpa. So the only justice we have for women who have been affected by this is in the courts. Unfortunately this battle in the courts is not kind, nor is it compassionate. But it is the best we have right now. It continues to be the fight of my life. LYSETTE ANTHONY: Harvey Weinstein is a dangerous, practiced, prolific rapist. End of story. What I want for him is that you say Jeff Epstein, you say Jack the Ripper, and you say Harvey Weinstein all in the same breath. MELISSA THOMPSON: Justice is having the opportunity to live our lives—happily and free from fear. ROSANNA ARQUETTE: The goal for all of us is that we will not live in fear anymore. It’s not a battle of the sexes. It’s not women against men. You’ve got people like Steve Bannon saying that women are trying to take over the world. You bet we are! If you won’t meet us in the middle, we have to! We’re just asking for equality. And we’re going to get it, whether they like it or not. n ROSANNA ARQUETTE:

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aymara textiles

aymara Textiles is a sustainable and boutique accessory brand, designed by piera ceresa. she transforms traditional andean textiles, made by indigenous communities, into modern and stylish accessories, a 100% sustainable process made using just wool. visit aymaratextiles.com or follow @aymaratextil on iG.

visit emma-rose-designs.co.uk or follow @emmarosedesigns on iG. alanna rose designs

alanna rose designs is a high-end swimwear brand with attention to detail and a bold sense of style. Branching into sustainable swimwear for the environmentally conscious. alanna rose signiﬁes luxury for the woman who wants to set trends not follow them. shop the collection at alannarosedesigns.com and follow on iG @alannarosedesigns

the school oF satchel an ethical independent brand based in Manila, philippines, The school of satchel creates premium leather satchels and accessories, made from responsibly sourced full grain cowhide leather. The brand aims to empower everyday milestones of the young urban creatives, who value fair trade, craftsmanship and style. visit theschoolofsatchel.com and follow @theschoolofsatchel on iG. somos marie Taking inspiration from her awakening as a woman, argentinian designer flavia pallucchini breaks old patterns and uniﬁes design with comfort. Wondering, “What would i wear if nobody saw me?”, her collection celebrates the free, real and beautiful woman, with the utmost respect for our nature. visit somosmarie.com and follow @somosmarie on iG. sPangelo designs spangelo designs specialises in gowns and cocktail dresses with demi-couture ﬁnishes. custom designs available on request. shop prêt-couture online at spangelodesigns.com and follow on iG @spangelodesigns Model: @sarahkruegerr photo: @me.sublime

yazi

yazi is an accessories brand by Bahraini artist yasmin salahuddin. after graduating from london, yasmin introduced an array of scarves made from ﬁnely spun wool with bold graphic prints interweaved together in a vibrant colour palette that was made to be worn with love. visit yazibahrain.com and follow @yazi_bahrain on iG. uhana uhana was born out of a wish to create quality garments that both ﬁt and feel perfect. What started as a collaboration between designers Mira vanttaja and Hanna virkamäki has grown into a true community and a company that still stands for the values that it was built on: fairness, equality, sustainability and bold beauty. visit uhanadesign.com or follow @uhanadesign on iG. saqhoute egypt-based norhan el sakkout created saqhoute, a slow fashion brand aiming to support the modern-day woman by offering her a highly versatile, timeless and ethical capsule wardrobe utilising local handicrafts and inspired by her egyptian cultural heritage. visit saqhoute.com and follow on iG @saqhoute

To adverTise please conTacT classvaniTyfair@condenasT.co.uk or 020 7499 9080 x3705

emma rose emma rose specialises in high quality clothing which is designed and made in the uk. They are proud of their made to order service which is “beautifully handmade just for you”. They also provide a bespoke, custom design service where you can request your own designs to be made.

Phriya phriya is a luxury, sustainable sleepwear brand focused on redeﬁning the classic pyjama for the modern dreamer with a timeless style. The ponza collection is made from natural materials such as Mother of pearl buttons and delicate cotton fabrics. each print is hand painted and depicts a fragment of the love story between circe and ulysses. visit phriya.com and follow @phriya.sleepwear on iG.

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A Touch Of Sparkle

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1. elaine Field is a luxury fashion brand specialising in hand crafted jewellery and clothing created by Barbadian artist and designer Lara Rogers. Visit elainefield.com or follow on IG @elainefieldofficial and for further enquiries email info@elainefield.com 2. Creatively influenced by New Zealand’s natural beauty, anoushka Van rijn has a contemporary vision on vintage inspired design. The brand strives to inspire women to celebrate their unique selves, push their fashion comfort zones and embrace confident design. Each piece is proudly handcrafted in New Zealand, as a testament to the brand’s passion for quality and sustainability. Visit anoushkavanrijn.co.nz and follow @anoushkavanrijnjewellery on IG. 3. reuse design® was born from a strong idea: to create iconic design objects of great excellence. They use industrial materials and transform them into something that goes beyond fashion. They combine a fine handmade process with great creativity to craft unique and edgy designs that tell a story. Visit reusedesign.net or follow @reuse_design on IG. 4. scéona offers fine jewellery that is designed and crafted with sustainability at heart. Made of 18kt recycled gold and lab-grown diamonds, Scéona pieces combine uncompromising quality, exquisite designs and a great deal of respect for the planet. Visit sceona.com and follow @sceona_ on IG. 5. justlise is a London-based jewellery designer for women and men. Handcrafted, graceful, unique and timeless fine jewellery with high quality diamonds. Available in 18 karat white, yellow and pink gold and is inspired by the icons Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly. Be part of an exceptional experience by visiting justlise.co.uk and following @justlise_jewelry on IG. 6. Just a few steps from the Santo Domingo Plaza in Cartagena, Colombia, you will find lucy jeWelry. The enchanting jewellery store, which, as part of a XVII century mansion, encapsulates an atmosphere where refined, innovative and cutting edge design creates elegant, captivating and original pieces. Visit lucyjewelry.co and follow @lucyjewelry on IG. 7. k a r t Ó design and create amazing fashion jewellery in the heart of Copenhagen. These beautiful earrings, from the astonishing ‘Cluster’ collection, have been created to embellish your evening look with luxury. Worldwide shipping available. Visit karto.dk and follow @karto_jewellery on IG. 8. soph jeWels attempts to merge two jewellery universes into one vision, by simplifying South Asian jewellery with character, embedded with Scandinavian design principles. All our fine unique designs are made with fine craftsmanship with 18K gold and diamonds. Visit sophjewels.com or follow @sophjewels on IG. 9. Lindsey Cates of aidah jeWelry specialises in antique diamond sourcing. Often combining old cut diamonds with original and refreshingly simple designs, her collections consist of one of a kind engagement rings and wedding bands. For a vintage jewellery heirloom full of character and history visit aidahjewelry.com and follow @aidahjewelry on IG. 10. Carefully curated by Clare Tuckett, the minimalist jewellery brand, namaste, sells stunning sterling silver jewellery of which 10% of profits are donated to Orchid Garden Nursery in Kathmandu, Nepal. This money provides food, clothes and improved teaching resources for the children. Visit nmstjewellery.com and follow @nmstjewellery on IG. 11. Creating talismans of personal power, trollbinde’s handmade jewellery calls on archetypes from the natural and mystical worlds connecting you with your inner Goddess. The Living Cicada Ring facilitates rebirth, transformation and the ecstasy of becoming anew. Visit trollbinde.com and follow @trollbindemagic on IG. 12. arte noVa jeWellery is a Portuguese jewellery brand developed by a third generation of goldsmith manufacturers. Inspired by heritage and driven by the passion of the goldsmith art, focusing on creating history with details as 19,2kt gold and 925 silver jewellery. Discover more at artenovajewellery.pt and follow on IG @artenovajewellery 13. rolanda alVes jeWels & gems is a Portuguese jewellery brand who make one of a kind pieces with one of a kind gemstones, all to make you feel special and unique. Visit rolandaalves.com or follow on @rolandaalves_jewels on IG. 14. Handmade in NYC, golde combines clean, modern lines with an eclectic twist that’s perfect for every day. The solid gold O.G. ring is universal – bold enough to stand alone, but classic and simple enough to stack with others. Visit goldenewyork.com/store and follow @golde_newyork on IG. 15. jarilyn jeWelry. Love Clicks, “The passion of never-ending love.” Use the birthstones of your loved ones to create a unique and elegant “puzzle” stacking ring that shows your endless love for them. This exquisite custom designed ring can be worn as a 16 single birthstone ring or combined with others to form a union between couples or family members. A great alternative to wedding bands, friendship rings or anniversary/eternity rings! This is such a special piece of jewellery with lots of fascinating and endless combinations expressing selflove, romantic love and family love. See more at jarilynjewelrycarmel.com and follow @jarilynjewelrycarmel on IG. 16. sienda is an Italian jewellery brand created by Elisa Zanda. This collection of porcelain jewellery, enriched with gold-plated sterling silver, is feminine, luxurious and classy. Shop her unique pieces at siendajewels.com and follow @sienda.jewels on IG. 17. nibiru collection, is a brand inspired by annunaki culture and born from luxury. Their pieces attract attention with 17 their strong, bold and unique designs. Their Chilean, Milan based designer, Marcela Mayorga adds an antique and chic style to her exquisite sold gold and handmade designs. To discover more visit nibirucollection.com and follow on IG @nibirucollection

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18. With a modern take on ancient civilisations, susa Jewellery handcrafts ﬁne pieces with vitreous enamel, silver, gold and gemstones. Each piece is made in the UK with love. Visit susajewellery.com for the full collection and follow on IG @susajewellery

19. ellie-usa, based in NYC, presents their signature collection “The Links” which is trendy yet sophisticated, a style that stands out without trying and is visually striking yet familiar. The paperclip design is a symbol of togetherness and unity. Visit ellie-usa.com or follow @ellieusa_jewelry on IG.

20. Handmade soutache earrings by guillory Jewelry – an effortlessly chic brand based in Antwerp created to bring a daring and contemporary edge to your look and give it a new twist. GUILLORY pieces are perfect for those who want to stand out. Every item is handmade with Swarovski crystals and conveys their unique, glamorous and time romantic style. Size (L*W): 16,5*5,7cm. See more at guilloryjewelry.com and follow @guillory.jewelry on IG.

21. iVy shores is a unique Australian brand, showcasing minimalist and contemporary collections of nature-inspired jewellery. Their growing range is feminine, classic and elegant, featuring natural freshwater pearls and ﬁne gold detailing. Visit ivyshores.com.au follow on IG @ivyshorescollections or email info@ivyshores.com.au for further information.

22. sacred Birch is an LA based line of contemporary jewellery. A self-taught metalsmith, Lauren uses recycled 14k gold, ﬁne silver and sterling silver. Fascinated by the duality of pearls and chain, her designs are made with a strong sense of invention and newness to elevate your style. Visit sacredbirch.com and follow @sacredbirchjewelry on IG.

23. Maria echeVerri is an Artist and jeweller who designs pieces of “wearable art”. Taking inspiration from all corners of her life, whether that be nature, the man-made world or even a feeling, her stunning designs celebrate structure and unusual forms. Visit mariaecheverrihn.com and follow @mariaecheverri.hn on IG.

24. Mosuo is a brand that believes in the beauty and power of femininity. Their pieces are delicate yet expressive and look beautiful with an everyday outﬁt or a cocktail dress. To discover more of their elegant pieces visit mosuo-shop.com or follow IG @mosuo_jewellery

25. Feel empowered through VK Jewellery london’s exquisite designs. Inspired by Istanbul’s vibrant culture, bridging together the East and West, their timeless designs use only the highest quality 18ct and 14ct gold, diamonds and semi-precious gemstones, as shown by these stunning blue topaz and diamond earrings. Explore the elegance of their collections at vkjewellerylondon.co.uk and follow @vkjewellerylondon on IG.

26. tashi adornMents. A bridge between ancient and contemporary, Tash Halicki’s bold and ﬂamboyant Jewellery pays homage to old-world style, culture and mythology. Each piece is handcrafted, full of colour, and imbued with a sense of spirit, while reminding us of the beauty of being perfectly imperfect. Visit tashijewellery.com or follow @tashi.jewellery on IG.

27. reFraMed Jewelry designed by Kinda Mouawad, combines Rock and Roll chic with elegant diamonds and daring designs to deliver elegance with an edge. It re-imagines precious gems in a unique and unexpected way. Shop pieces at reframedjewelry.com and follow on IG @reframedjewelry

29. Designed and handcrafted in Andalucia, Southern Spain, Proenza Jewellery combines uniquely coloured and shaped stones with beautifully crafted gold-plated settings to create exclusive, eclectic and sophisticated pieces for every woman and occasion. Visit proenzajewellery.com and follow @proenzajewellery on IG.

30. saBine werner designs and lovingly creates contemporary statement pieces by hand in her studio located in Aix-en-Provence in the South of France. She mainly works with sterling silver, resin and semiprecious stones. In her clean designs she combines simplicity with a touch of luxury to create wearable art. Discover more online at sabine-werner.com and follow @sabinewernerjewellery on IG.

31. london de specialise in bespoke diamond and coloured gemstone engagement rings and jewellery, handmade in their London workshop. Dealing in responsibly sourced gemstones exclusively, purchased directly from ethical sources at the very top of the supply chain, they can create any design to order. Contact them directly to arrange a free consultation in their Hatton Garden studio at londonde.com and follow @london.d.e on IG. 32. Kate danielle Jewellery. Toronto based designer, Kate Danielle Plourde, launched her namesake brand in February 2019 to create investment quality pieces at affordable prices. Handmade by local craftsmen, each statement design incorporates a blend of clean lines and colours, as well as gold and gemstones, adding a pop of colour to any outﬁt. Worldwide shipping available at katedanielle.ca and follow @katedaniellejewellery on IG. 33. These stunning emerald Dew Drop Earrings from eVangeline london Q Garden collection are the perfect piece to complete and enhance your Spring/Summer look. To discover this exciting and elegant British ﬁne jewellery brand visit evangeline.co.uk and follow @evangeline_london on IG.

34. Exclusively handmade by founder, Patricia, Jewels By P’s unique jewellery pieces are your new go to accessories to enhance your everyday wear, a special occasion or evening look. Browse her gorgeous collection at jewelsbyp.com and follow on IG @jewelsbyp

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TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CONTACT CLASSVANITYFAIR@CONDENAST.CO.UK OR 020 7499 9080 x3705

28. Mixing coloured gemstones with shapes and textures of 18k gold in his new collection inspired by the music of iconic Igor Stravinsky, andrey yarden discovers the idea of transforming sounds into emotional jewellery. See more at andreyyarden.com, and follow @andreyyarden on IG.

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A Touch Of Sparkle

35. amorVu creates distinctive ﬁne jewellery for women and men. They make everything to order, offering precious metal and gemstone options, enabling customers to personalise their piece. Amorvu sells worldwide with free shipping. To view their exclusive collection, visit amorvu.com or follow @amorvujewelry on IG. 36. the sattVa ColleCtion is a conscious lifestyle jewellery brand handmade by artisans in India, part of each sale goes to support underprivileged children. Attune to the sacred feminine when wearing the Sri Yantra Collection, this yogic symbol represents the goddess energy; invoking authentic power, radiance and abundance in the wearer. Discover more at thesattvacollection.com and on IG @thesattvacollection_ 37. Catch everyone’s eye with a bespoke piece of jewellery featuring handpicked gemstones. Coloured stones and diamond specialist gF Williams can help you ﬁnd both the perfect gemstone and designer to bring your design to life. Explore the wonderful world of gemstones at gfwilliams.co.uk or follow @gfwilliamsandco on IG. 38. Blaze an irrepressible trail with Puro editions’ game-changing range of healing gemstone bracelets. Expertly crafted using peace jade, howlite, jasper stone, mother of pearl and more; mix, match and collect to create your very own personal Puro stack. Puro Editions brings you the chicest wrists in the room with the clearest head to match. Use code VF10 for an exclusive 10% discount at puroeditions.co.uk Follow @puroeditions on IG. 39. dana BusCh designs. One-of-a-kind sculptural works of art for the body. Precious, semi-precious and rare materials are harmoniously combined and meticulously hand fabricated, guided by nature’s beauty and Dr Busch’s intuitive aesthetic. Visit danabuschdesigns.com also available at medicinemangallery.com 41 and follow on IG @danabuschdesigns 40. Julia ursino JeWellery creates handmade one of a kind jewellery pieces, in contemporary, Victorian, Regency, Art Deco and Ancient designs. She uses Swarovski crystals, Japanese glass beads, pure silver, cubic zirconia, semi precious stones and art fused glass, among other materials. All exclusive designs are one edition per piece of jewellery. See more at juliaursino.com 41. From head to tail, detail is everything in Very anna’s stunning designs. Made with 14K rose gold vermeil and lab-created stones, this snake does anything but blend in to it’s surroundings. Perfect for everyday wear or special events, Very Anna’s jewellery is designed to make you stand out on any occasion. Visit veryanna.com and follow @veryanna.story on IG. 42. Hong Kong based austy lee art JeWellery specialises in one-of-a-kind, resplendent, wearable art pieces. All pieces are set in 43 18K gold with colour rhodium, natural gemstones and diamonds. If this bespoke Burmese jade bangle (which is just the tip of the iceberg) doesn’t amaze you, visit austyleeartjewellery.com and follow them on IG @austy_lee to be blown away. 43. PaliPa JeWelry. Hand-made, customised and limited-edition. Inspired from spirituality, meditation and exotic travels. Eco-materials and natural stones are hand selected to compliment the lifestyle of the wearer, transcending the status of accessory to daily companion. Visit palipajewelry.com and follow on IG @palipajewelry

Blooming Beauty

1. Pretty roots’ eco-conscious cotton pads is a new brand you will absolutely love. Their bamboo makeup pads 3 are washable, soft as silk and the perfect swap in your beauty routine to reduce waste for the planet. Find them on Amazon and follow @pretty__roots on IG. 2. hey BaBe CosmetiCs is a Toronto based company with a charity focus to empower women and give back to the community. Proceeds going to two charities dedicated to the owner’s late husbands, The Charles Krowitz Burkett’s Lymphoma Fund at Princess Margaret Hospital and The Allen David Abbott Scar Wars Fellowship Fund at St. Michael’s Hospital. This cruelty-free, non-toxic and 6 paraben make up line is fit for women of all ages and backgrounds. Visit heybabecosmetics.ca and follow @heybabecosmeticsinc to see the full range. 3. dr.ankerstJerne skincare is an advanced luxury skincare line that suits everyone who is passionate about building a healthy skin. Their Anti-Age Nightcream looks to support the skin’s natural defences and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines. Visit ankerstjerne.no/en and follow @dr.ankerstjerne on IG. 4. BlaVia skinCare is a cruelty-free brand that is inspired by the sea. Their Skin Strengthening Body Scrub gently exfoliates and can help your skin appear glowing and youthful. It can also encourage the appearance of skin elasticity. Shop at blaviaskincare.com and follow @blaviaskincare on IG. 5. BasziCare. Pamper your delicate eye area with Ortus and Artius. Ortus, an overnight eye masque, which aims to nurture skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines, while Artius focuses on the eye contour for an elegant taut look. Visit baszicare.com and follow on IG @baszicare 6. With exotic ingredients meticulously sourced from all over the world, Bean Álainn naturals’ ultra-chic, all-natural skincare elixirs get your skin jet set ready. Discover the exclusive luxury at banaturals.com and follow @beanalainnnaturals on IG, from $55.

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7. “Orange Me, Baby”. Honeydipped CosmetiCs, meaning: “beloved coal”, is infused with French pink clay, kiwi seed, activated charcoal, and green tea. Curated to gently cleanse the skin, this mask leaves skin feeling rejuvenated, bright and youthful. Available at iamhoneydipped.com and follow on IG @honeydippedcos 8. A mixture of Natural Organic Acids (Tartaric, Shikimic, Citric, Malic, Lactic, Gluconic), extracted from grape juice. This Concentrated Exfoliant Grape Acid is the amazing liquid mask by ÉLÈVe. A soft peel without microgranules, even suitable for sensitive and blotchy skin. It exfoliates and helps with normal cellular turnover, leaving your skin appearing smooth, radiant and visibly renewed. Visit their website at elevecosmetic.com and follow on IG @elevecosmetic

9. Revive your skin with mayur naturaLs’ Elixir Face Serum. Their all-natural, organic, vegan and gluten-free skincare, hair care and cosmetic products use the purest ingredients, providing a boost of vitamins, omegas and antioxidants, to help bring out your natural beauty. 10 Visit mayurnaturals.com or follow @mayur_naturals on IG. 10. studio nine seVen tWo. Finally, an organic and non-toxic candle safe for everyone from IG @studionineseventwo. Forget the days when candles give you headaches and nausea and enjoy the clean-burning aroma of their all-natural coconut wax and luxurious fragrances. Shop the range at studionineseventwo.com

11. Haoma perfumes are free from all synthetics and certiﬁed organic. They are also vegan. Sophisticated and transcendent No.1 is Haoma’s signature blend, it will also enhance your wellbeing thanks to the pure essential oils in it. Truly magical and long-lasting with notes of Myrrh, Patchouli, Geranium, Frankincense and Cedarwood. Visit haoma.co.uk (IG) @haoma_uk

12. root naturaL soap’s Facial Rollers and Gua Sha tools naturally improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of puffiness and fine lines and promote skincare product absorption. An eco-conscious company, a portion of all sales go to non-profit13 organisations dedicated to environmental preservation. Visit rootnaturalsoap.com and follow @rootnaturalsoap on IG.

13. dime Beauty. This Dewy Day Cream captures the simplistic beauty of clean skincare. It nourishes the skin with moisture, ensuring skin feels hydrated and balanced. The formula reduces the appearance of ﬁne lines and allows the skin to feel supple and youthful. Visit dimebeautyco.com or follow @dimebeautyco on IG.

14. CHuCkLing goat Sensitive Cleanser and Lotion is handmade in small batches on a Welsh family farm. Containing award-winning probiotic keﬁr, goat’s milk, honey, oat oil, essential oils and therapeutic herbs. Free from perfumes, dyes, chemicals, parabens, petrochemicals and phthalates. Suitable for eczema, psoriasis, acne or rosaceaprone skin. Visit chucklinggoat.co.uk and follow on IG @chucklinggoat 15. QuiensoysHoppe is a minimalist lifestyle brand featuring beautifully scented soy candles that are handcrafted in small batches. Their simple yet vintage vibe allows them to complement any space and mood. Visit quiensoyshoppe.com to use code QUIEN10 and follow on IG @Quiensoyshoppe 16. eVerydaze. Premium Hydrogel Under Eye Patches for bright, youthful eyes! These Diamond Eye Patches make your skin feel illuminated and regenerated, reducing the appearance of dull shadows and pufﬁness with diamond, caffeine and galactomyces. The Gold Charcoal Eye Patches are e nriched with gold, charcoal and adenosine to make skin feel youthful, lifted and tighter for an ageless appearance. Shop online at everydaze.com and follow @every.daze on IG.

17. Each reusable glass bottle of yage organiCs’ skincare products captures the bohemian spirit and holistic approach of their aromatherapy and Korean skincare system. Explore their collection of eco-luxe beauty products, which aim to give you beautiful and healthy skin and a calm happy soul, at yageorganics.com and follow @yageorganics on IG.

TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CONTACT CLASSVANITyFAIR@CONDENAST.CO.UK OR 020 7499 9080 x3705

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Picture Perfect 1. American artist, Millie siMs, specialises in large scale geometric paintings with her signature sharp-angled style reshaping conventional beauty in new and imaginative ways. Through adaptations of classics and subjects of her invention, her work puts an innovative spin on familiar imagery. Visit milliesimsart.com and follow @milliesimsart on IG. 2. Patrick earle is a bold colourist who explores the joy and beauty of the visual experience. This painting ‘Steps and Shaded Pool’ is inspired by the walk around a beautiful lake on the Island of Guernsey. Visit patrickearle.com and follow @patrickearle.art on IG and Facebook. 3. Joyce WellMan engages in persistent experimentation with ideas, media, composition and materials. Her art references the subconscious mind and explores the language of dreams. 6 Creating painting, drawing, printmaking, and employing marks, words, letters, numbers and symbols, she generates new pathways and invites the viewer into an enigmatic conversation with the unconscious. For more information email artworks@joycewellman.com or visit joycewellman.com. 4. Jane carkill illustrations. Flora and fauna has always been the ultimate inspiration for Jane’s work. Fascinated by natural ephemeral beauty and intricate detail, she combines a love of folklore, narration, myth and story with a precise style of illustration to capture an essence in nature that is both magical and nostalgic. Visit etsy.com/shop/lamblittleshop and @lamblittle on IG. 5. French artist and designer lina karaM, is inspired by the Mediterranean, love, mythology, sculpture and life. Using a varied palette of pearly, matt and transparent oils Lina enjoys playing with texture with motifs that vanish in the rhythm of the canvas. Visit linakaramnew.com or visit Lina’s profile on saatchiart.com to discover her latest works. 6. Los Angeles based painter edie Beaucage crisply deploys multi-hued brushstrokes to set off characters in colour-field moments and fantastical spaces. Her work was exhibited at Untitled Art Fair, Miami, and is part of the Creative Artists Agency collection. Edie is represented in LA by Luis De Jesus Gallery. Visit ediebeaucage.com and follow on IG @ediebeaucage 7. steVen nederVeen’s images capture a magical quality of the ocean, turning a vast horizon into an intimate portrait of waves and froth. Steven’s mixed media work is featured internationally in galleries, art fairs, magazines, and many private collections. For enquiries, email steven@nederveen.ca or visit bau-xi.com/collections/steven-nederveen#. 8. carrie Beth Waghorn is a fresh contemporary minimalist. Raw and expressive, her work invokes an unadulterated sense of feminine beauty. Her internationally published pieces include elegant nudes and sophisticated fashion illustration. Her work is represented exclusively by Meyer Vogl Gallery. See her work at meyervogl.com/artist/carrie-beth-waghorn and follow @carriebethwaghorn on IG. 9. a.c. lindner paints naturalistic still life and animal subjects using traditional oil glazing techniques, a centuriesold process resulting in luminous and beautifully detailed finished oil paintings. For more information regarding paintings and bespoke services, visit aclindner.com or email lindnerstudios@yahoo.com 10. Through her company carolin rechBerg llc offers fine art commissions, exhibitions, sales and services. She holds a BFA and MFA in Fine Art as well as a M.Ed in Art and Art Education. Pictured is “ Contemplation Stone”, a carved ceramic sculpture, 46 x 41 x 16cms. Visit carolinrechberg.com or follow @carolinrechberg on IG to find out more. 11. Brittany Free is a resin artist based in Boulder, Colorado, USA. Her artwork is infused with energy, colour and personality, and each piece aims to spark joy. For more information or to commission work, visit brittanyfreeart.com. Follow on IG @bfreeart 12. American contemporary artist rachel triBBle’s award-winning dream-like paintings are recognised for their meditative quality as experiments in space, colour and light. To learn more visit racheltribble.com or follow @racheltribbleart on IG. 13. helen aleX Murray is a fluid abstract artist based in Vancouver, Canada. Her paintings explore the space where the mind wanders and emotions live without constraint or modesty. Intense colours are layered as an expression of overflowing feelings and contrasting moods. ‘Mine’ 36 x 48 inches Acrylic Mixed Media on gallery wood canvas. Visit helenalexmurray.com and follow @helenalexmurray on IG. 3

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Vanity Fair’s Shortlist

1. keep your hair shiny and frizz free with the innovative silk theory pillowcase! carefully curated to reduce friction and minimise breakage, this pillowcase is the ultimate beauty staple for all haircare lovers! visit silk-theory.com and follow @silktheoryuk on iG.

2. Having experienced sweaty and itchy feet in the past, Jonathan from Jmeloellis decided to provide the perfect solution. creating fashionable and high quality socks for men made with 100% organic cotton, you can spice up your style with different creative designs. With every pair you buy, another is donated to children in need in the dominican republic. see more at jmeloellisclothing.com and follow @jmeloellis on iG.

3. light up your life with Beach loVe candles™ . They offer a luxury range of unique, beautiful and bespoke scented candles. in addition to their ocean themed candles, Beach love offers designs for all occasions, including personalised photographs inside the candles! The company couples the highest quality gel available with low smoke wicks to create amazing designs using hand selected seashells and ornaments. all fragrances are true to scent, and their products are affordable on any budget! shop online at beachlovecandles.com or follow them on iG @beach_love_candles

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4. ZZiee ceramics is the work of elizabeth eisenstein, a potter based in Joshua Tree, california. Her line draws inspiration from the textures, colours, and shapes of the Mojave desert. every object is made by elizabeth and designed for daily use. visit zzieeceramics.com and follow @zzieeceramics on iG.

5. hugo & celine premium dog treats, food and ice cream from sweden. all-natural ingredients and no scary additives, the products come in stylish design award winning packaging. dogs all over the world can’t get enough of these treats. Get yours at fetch or ocado, or ﬁnd your closest retailer at hugoandceline.com/retailers. see happy dog-testimonials on iG @hugoandceline

6. Banhoek chilli oil is handcrafted in the beautiful Banhoek valley near stellenbosch, south africa. using only the highest quality rapeseed oil and dried Thai chillies, it delivers the perfect combination of heat versus ﬂavour. perfect to cook with or drizzle on all your favourite foods. available via banhoekchillioil.co.uk or amazon uk. prices: £8.50 for 250ml bottle, £9.50 for 250ml gift wrapped bottle, 100ml travel size, pack of 3 £12.75.

8 . We love these Bewater bottles with crystals at their centre. This one is called clarity with amethyst and is just one of sixteen different crystal combinations that bewater offers. perfect for someone who has an afﬁnity for gemstones as well as anyone on the hunt for an on-trend and gorgeous gift or accessory. visit bewater.com and follow on iG @bewater.water

9. a swiVlit is an insulated, microwavable and leakproof ﬂask, which keeps food hot or cold for up to 5 hours. it can even be used to slow cook delicious meals on the move. a swivlit is the perfect gift for professionals, busy parents, students and gym-goers alike! available in various colours at swivlit.com and follow @swivlit on iG. 10. moonrise candle co is a father and son, small-batch, soy candle company based in the united states. combining natural scents with a neutral design, their candles offer a timeless 12 comfort. check out their signature collection at moonrisecandle.com or @moonrisecandle [iG].

11. tahi new Zealand’s Beelicious honey tastes just... bee-autiful! Made especially for kids by honey bees that forage on native new Zealand wildﬂowers, it celebrates our love of bees, birds and the land, so it’s a perfect way to connect children to nature. visit tahinz.com or follow @tahinewzealand on iG.

12. cherished newBorn PhotograPhy By amy ward stands out by creating stunning images that are artistic and highly original, as well as timeless. she also donates part of her proﬁts to charity. a gift voucher for a session with amy is that perfect gift for any parent to be. visit cherished-byamywardphotography.com or email info@cherished-byamywardphotography.com for further information.

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7. The ethereal pastel tarot deck by Prism + Fleur are the cards of your dreams. These cards invite you to deepen your relationship with yourself on a mental, emotional and spiritual level. circular in shape and honest in nature, accurate af Tarot is your go to deck for illumination and enlightenment. visit prismandﬂeur.com and follow @prism.and.ﬂeur on iG.

Proust Questionnaire

TOM FORD

The designer and director on parenthood, aging, and reluctant schmoozing

What is your idea of perfect happiness? Life with no Instagram and no selfies. I am so tired of looking at people staring out of the window of a private plane with a small dog in their laps. What is your greatest fear? Couples who have to be sat side by side at L.A. dinner parties. What is that all about?! Which living person do you most admire? Gloria Steinem. What is the trait you most deplore in yourself? Perfectionism. What is the trait you most deplore in others? Narcissism. What is your greatest extravagance? Sleep and doughnuts. What is your favorite journey? The one to my bed every night. What do you consider the most overrated virtue? Political correctness. On what occasion do you lie? It is hard to get through a large cocktail

party without lying dozens of times. “You look amazing!”… “Oh, my God, it’s so great to see you!”…“We need to see each other more!”—when really I am dying to get home and watch Netflix. What do you dislike most about your appearance? The fact that my butt seems to be sliding down my thighs. Which living person do you most despise? Well, we all know who, but I don’t want to give him any more airtime. What is your greatest regret? That I never slept with Cary Grant. What or who is the greatest love of your life? Our son, Jack. When and where are you happiest? Staring at our son every night when he is sleeping. Which talent would you most like to have? The ability to relax. What is your current state of mind? Cluttered. If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? My terrible temper. What do you consider your greatest achievement? Being a good parent, or at least trying to be. If you were to die and come back as a person or thing and could choose what to come back as, 116

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what would it be? The Barcelona Pavilion. What is your most treasured possession? My ability to simply say “Fuck it.” What do you regard as the lowest depth of misery? Have

you ever taken a mirror and bent over and looked at what happens to your face? If you are over 35, it is not pretty. I’ve definitely entered the age of only lying on my back when in intimate situations. What is your favorite occupation? Making films. What is your most marked characteristic? Loyalty. What do you most value in your friends? A sense of humor. Who are your heroes in life? Doctors. What are your favorite names? Classic ones. Names have become so absurd. Especially in L.A. If I meet one more person named after a tree, a fruit, or an obscure spice, I’m going to lose it. What is it that you most dislike? People who cancel dates at the last minute. L.A. seems to be filled with these people. How would you like to die? Alone. What is your motto? Listen to everyone and then do what you want. Actually, I’ve lifted that quote from Diane von Furstenberg, but it’s genius. I live by it. Q

I L L U S T R AT I O N BY

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MARCH 2020

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