STATE OF THE ART

After recognising the relevance of concern in wellbeing at the core, it is necessary for the project to establish itself through the lens of clothing. The State of the Art prepare the vision for response by understanding and being acquainted with the work of other designers, manufacturers and artists. Determining the position of the project in relation to contemporaries is crucial to considering what can be offered differently with a new perspective.

Exploring the concept of care in clothes begins with direct translations represented for the healthcare industry. Such niche designs can parallel with their level of innovation in sportswear. Cosmic Armour wishes to question why this level of expertise and consideration is not infused more into clothes so that they can be worn with more compelling purpose.

CalmCare is a sensory clothing brand with compression capabilities. Their products use CalmTex® fabric – a breathable sensory material providing gentle compression and body temperature regulation. Compression sensations work well in this industry because it imitates the feeling of being hugged - increasing the release of serotonin and oxytocin. CalmCare claims to provide “the perfect amount of sensory input to calm, soothe and support self-regulation”. Working with “proprioceptive feedback” a term sometimes referred to as our “hidden sixth sense” and a predominant focus in occupational therapy. Proprioception uses proprioceptors, giving us access to knowing and recognising the motion of our bodies. These might include recognising opening and closing joints as well as weight, pressure, position and tension. Proprioceptors give us all this information and are crucial to reducing anxiety which can be built up through lack of circulation.

23

Similarly, weighted blankets work on the principle of compression. Newborns are tightly wrapped to feel secure and it is proven that deep pressure detected by receptors sends signals of safety to the brain. Weighted blankets contain glass beads to create pressure. Gravity blankets recommend blankets weighing 10% the body’s weight for maximum effect. According to PTSD UK “Not only does a weighted blanket calm your nervous system and provide a feeling of comfort, but the deep pressure touch stimulation (DPTS) of a weighted blanket also helps to encourage serotonin production” Weighted blankets are powerful tools in psychiatric care because they aid restorative sleep, improving mood levels and relaxing muscles. Providing benefits that are similar to that of a massage is a major inspiration for this project because it proves how valuable these tools are.

Upon searching for recovery clothing Under Armour’s RECOVER range is a definitive highlight. The collection comprises of sleepwear made with Celliant technology: bioceramic textile structures. Bioceramic textiles use nanoparticles of multiple ceramics at small percentages which are melted into the fibres at high temperatures. The heat conservation properties of these ceramics create what is also known as a FIR process (far infrared). This fabrication has become popular in sportswear and claims to activate and conserve recovery after exercise. The energy and heat produced by the body is conserved within the ceramic particles and circulated back to the body, relaxing the muscles and improving blood circulation. Under Armour’s integration of such intelligent and considered fabric is progressive in this industry despite its marketing towards high impact athletes.

This sleepwear and bedding range by Under Armour has become an extension of care: from motivating and supporting exercise, to recovery and regeneration. Cosmic Armour proposes to utilise this approach toward healing textiles but aimed at the wider population. The inspired technology has the potential to expand, utilising the body’s response in favour of

24

25

the wearer.

Artists and designers have concluded with many different approaches to promoting wellbeing through their visions. Magnifying different senses is a profound theme towards enhancing and grounding a feeling of wellbeing. However, the limitations of this integration may be reflected in the wearability, longevity, manufacturing and scenario of what is produced. It is motivating though that the themes reflect a shared consensus for designing self-care tools and promoting positive feeling – to learn more from our own responses before waiting until we should seek medical advice. It is a proactive approach to sustaining good health.

Kristi Kuusk’s Vibe-ing was designed as a self-care tool, encouraging body movement and healing through vibration therapy. Fabricated in wool, the piece contains pockets embedded with electronic circuit boards that vibrate from actuators on specific pressure points. The project’s aim was to inform a multi-disciplinary audience about merging self-healthcare services with everyday activities.

The Healing Imprint by Laura Deschl is a capsule collection of activewear integrating “trauma-healing” techniques. The project incorporates a grid into the knitted activewear where massage balls can be inserted and moved to specific points. Deschl’s project focuses on movement in the body – specifically trauma sensitive yoga – as a major role in overcoming buried memories and emotions.

Haptic technology, kinaesthetic communication or 3D touch, refers to any technology that can create an experience of touch by applying forces, vibrations, or motions to the user. Sofie Di Bartolomeo’s Tactile Haptic Fabric uses 3D surface texture in a modular pattern. Stimulating touch helps regulate emotions and calms stress receptors. The rubbery surface pearls create abstract touch stimulation. Organic irregularities in the design en-

26

courage touch and curiosity as some areas are more dense than others.

Iga Węglińska’s Emotional Clothing collection was focused on the topic of human-object interactions. Her clothes respond to the wearer’s heartbeat and uses sensors to trigger light visuals. Stress usually causes a rise in temperature and a faster heartbeat. Węglińska’s aim was to help people to recognise their stress as temporary when they experience the changing state of their clothes.

The State of the Art concludes with a full palette of influences from all the examples. There are many points to consider for the manufacturing process. The fabrication and material detail is a distinctive focus in these project – especially the functionality to enhance the wellness experience. The scenario that the product is inserted into is an important role in its sustained use. It is likely that the final outcome of this project will serve as a starting point for many others. Cosmic Armour is differentiated from these projects as it aims to loosen the niche of its sphere and become easily integrated into the lives of its demographic. A close look at Palpatine by Daniel Sanchez, an auxetic bra highlights the approach of simplicity as perhaps the most effective.

28

29

30