the feast - Les Dames d'Escoffier - Vol. 2. Iss. 2

HONORING OUR DYNAMIC MOTHER-DAUGHTER DUOS

The mother-daughter bond is a powerful dynamic that fuels personal and entrepreneurial growth. Historical perspectives shape our understanding of the relationship’s importance to societal stability. Mothers and daughters bring different strengths to the worktable. Often at the helm of a company, a mother’s experience and leadership traits complement the daughter’s fresh perspectives, innovation, and adeptness with digital marketing. A common connection is a shared passion for collaboration and a desire for work-life balance. After the loss of a mother, enduring connections such as shared memories, friendships, traditions, and even recipes can bring comfort to a daughter. Read the profiles of these dynamic Dame duos and prepare to be inspired. — Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)

Caroline Randall Williams and Alice Randall

“Say yes to everything you can do together. There’s nothing like having your mom on your team.” —Caroline Randall Williams

Caroline Randall Williams and Alice Randall are members of the LDEI Nashville Chapter. Caroline is the host of Hungry for Answers, and a Writer-In-Residence at Vanderbilt University. Her mother Alice is a New York Times best-selling novelist, award-winning songwriter, and food activist. She serves as Writer-in-Residence at Vanderbilt University and has more than 20 recorded songs to her credit.

It’s the 10th anniversary of their first cookbook collaboration, Soul Food Love (ClarksonPotter), which won the NAACP Image Award and the Pat Conroy Cookbook Award. Work has begun on a second cookbook with the working title: The Black Country Kitchen.

Their favorite subject for collaboration is cookbooks, yet they don’t enjoy cooking together. Alice admits, “Our dynamic works because writing together is a way that we “play” and connect. If we collaborate on a meal, we cook in separate kitchens. We never get into power struggles when collaborating on recipes. We are both so curious…I want to know what she knows, and she wants to know what I know.”

To collaborate on a mother-daughter project, Alice recommends, “Do the thing only the two of you can do. Not her project, not your project, seek out ‘our project.’ The project you couldn’t do alone. Enjoy. Every. Bite. The cooking and the eating and the feeding.

When I think of Caroline’s strengths, I think it’s a wonder she needs me! She is a highly skilled, highly imaginative home cook who owns thousands of cookbooks and is knowledgeable about a wide range of foods. So, cooking is one of her strengths.”

In turn, Carolina says her mother has a peerless work ethic, a curiosity that leads to inspiring and historic discoveries that no one else could find, and a ferocious capacity to type, type, type.

Affiliation with LDEI allows the sharing of their specialized knowledge of AfricanAmerican foodways and Nashville food traditions with a broad group of brilliant women. Caroline notes, “One of the best things about collaborating with my mother through LDEI is the gift of being able to spend time with my favorite person while contributing to a cause that matters to me…to know that your relationship is making a positive impact. When you work with your mother you put respect and regard first and your own agency second, but they are both equally important. The gift is learning how to feel powerful and be a respectful and loving collaborator at the same time.”

Lucille S. Giovino and Eda Saccone

“When women come together, mountains move.”

My mother-daughter Les Dames’ association is unique. After years of watching her chef husband go off to the “all male” Les Amis d’Escoffier Society dinners, my mother Eda Saccone was pretty much in the throes of starting a Boston food society in the 1950s. (Les Dames des Amis d’Escoffier) What a fascinating and involved endeavor—to be privy to a start-up operation with all its legal ramifications, social responsibilities, and choosing the best establishment to serve the first and finest Escoffier-style dinner. [In 1992, Les Dames des Amis d’Escoffier joined Les Dames d’Escoffier International, founded in New York in 1973.]

Our first Les Dames d’Escoffier dinner was front-page news in the two major Boston newspapers. Not only was this a dining experience par excellence, mom and her committee then established a foundation to assist students in culinary schools. With all this, she succeeded with flying colors! What was so gratifying was the fact that I absorbed the process and was able to carry the torch and continue her high standards when I became president in the 1980s. What better opportunity than to share part of life’s journey with one’s mom. —Lucille Giovino (Boston)

In 2009, Grande Dame Eda Saccone’s 100th birthday coincided with the chapter's 50th anniversary! These momentous occasions were celebrated at a magnificent Annual Dinner. Lucille was the Boston Chapter president from 1980-1989 and is a lifetime Member-at-Large.

Celebrating Ruth Reichl's book launch, L-R: Elizabeth Donovan, Ruth Reichl, and Barbara Glunz-Donovan.

Elizabeth Donovan and Barbara Glunz-Donovan

“Women rise by lifting others.”

Elizabeth Donovan joined LDEI Chicago in 2014 and served as chapter president in 2018-19. Her mother Barbara Glunz-Donovan was a founder of the chapter; Elizabeth proudly introduced her as a Dame of Distinction in 2021. As a marketing executive with a 30-year career in advertising, Elizabeth often worked on food and beverage accounts. She helped found Slow Food Chicago with fellow Dame Portia Belloc Lowndes

She says, “I’m the fourth generation of a 136-year-old family wine, beer, and spirits business started in 1888 by my maternal great grandfather, Louis Glunz I. My mother, with my brother, owns and operates The House of Glunz, a historic retail shop, and the adjoining Glunz Tavern. My mother is truly inspiring within this industry and shares her incredible wine knowledge with customers seven days a week and hosts wine dinners/tastings at Glunz Tavern. Her work ethic, passion for wine and hospitality, and ability to build meaningful relationships have profoundly influenced my career. Her unwavering commitment to preserving our family legacy while adapting to industry changes has taught me the value of tenacity, leadership, and the relentless pursuit of excellence.”

Elizabeth continues, “I love that we help bring generations of LDE members together on committees and at events. That is LDE at its most powerful— learning from each other, honoring the pioneers who led before us, and supporting those who are expanding and shaping the industry in new ways every day. I’ve learned the importance of mentorship and continuity. How wisdom and experience can be passed down while embracing fresh perspectives. Mother-daughter duos should attend events together and support each other. This demonstrates the power of multigenerational membership. Be open to learning from each other; experience and tradition are just as valuable as fresh ideas and innovation.”

Barbara adds, “I’m proud that my daughter took up the banner of spreading the word that well-grown/wellmade wines and healthy foods are important to a proper lifestyle. This all has been an important part of what we call “Good Living.”

Candace Barocci Warner and Nancy Barocci

“A mother’s history becomes a daughter’s beginning; it is in this circle that we find our purpose.”

Nancy Barocci was my mother; she passed away January 18. We respected each other and had a great partnership in Convito Café & Market, which she opened in 1980. Joining Convito in my mid-twenties, I honed my business and management skills, and my mom drove the creativity, design, and ideas. We discovered we had skills that really complemented one another! We often discussed our visions of Convito in the future and collaborated on our strategies, which was important to us. She taught me the importance of trying new dishes and about quality control. She left me with a huge resource of recipes. My management skills of our staff as well as my ability to keep tabs on all aspects of the business, which can “sometimes be the boring part” as she would say, will allow me to keep succeeding, I believe.

When we came back from England in 1979, my mother wanted to educate the North Shore and, later on, Chicago, about Italian food and culture. People didn’t really know what pesto or a sun-dried tomato was then; Chianti was just a wine in a basket. She was a leader from the start, and even in college was president of her dorm and sorority. She always wanted to be busy and take charge, so her success is no surprise.

Changing and adapting with the times, while sticking to the original missions and goals, is the reason we’ve lasted all these years. We’re celebrating our 45th year in business. Being grateful for the flexibility and care that goes into mother-daughter relationships at work is key. Cherish your time together, but make time for each of you separately. Candace Barocci Warner (Chicago)

A member since 1982, Nancy served two terms as Chicago Chapter president and was honored as a Dame of Distinction. She was the International President in 1995. Candace joined in 2002 and was a 2012-2014 chapter board member.

Micheline and Catherine Mendelsohn

“Working alongside my daughter for the past 18 years has been the highlight of my life.” Catherine Mendelsohn.

Micheline Mendelsohn and her mother Catherine Mendelsohn have been members of the Washington, D.C. Regional Chapter since 2018. They run the Sunnyside Restaurant Group, a family business based in D.C. with several restaurant concepts under its umbrella: We, The Pizza; Good Stuff Eatery; and Santa Rosa Taqueria. There are 10 national locations with several in Egypt, Saudi Arabia, and South Korea.

Micheline, Deputy CEO, is in charge of marketing and PR. Her mother Catherine, a trained chef and COO, is responsible for the food. Her brother works with marketing and franchising; her father is the financial wizard.

Catherine shares, “I came up in an industry of very few women…the only way to succeed in a man’s world was never to think about it— only see yourself as a business person. My daughter brought me into Les Dames; I feel honored to be part of such an amazing community of accomplished, supportive women who are a force for good in our communities.” She says Micheline is a powerhouse bringing a wealth of outside-the-box thinking into their company and is skilled at building relationships…at home and abroad. “Her calm way of always pulling rabbits out of hats in any time of crisis is truly an inspiration!”

Micheline says striving for perfectionism is one of her mother’s strengths, “Therefore we all try to achieve the highest level of quality in our food, the warmest atmosphere in our restaurants, and the best guest experience…this has made the concept infinitely better. We have managed our strengths together to build a very strong, robust company.” She concludes, “At the end of the day, the most important relationship is…the actual mother and daughter bond…gathering together as a family to create our own beautiful memories.” Catherine affirms, “It takes a deep love, understanding, and respect for each other; if you have that, it’s a way of life that brings so much happiness to you everyday.”

Patricia and Sarah C. Ward

“Never forget… your mother wants what is best for you.”-Sarah C. Ward.

and her mother Patricia (“Pat”) are Philadelphia Dames. Sarah is a Wine & Spirits Supervisor for Total Wine & More in New Jersey. Pat has enjoyed a long, storied career as a food stylist, cookbook author, and recipe developer. She taught cookery and nutrition two years in the Peace Corps in West Cameroon, Africa. Pat says, “Sarah has assisted me with food prep at the Photography Studio and for classes on food styling and recipe development. We’re a great team and compliment each other because her visions are so imaginative, and I’m great at meeting deadlines.”

She adds, “We have yet to collaborate on a LDEI project, but we could plan a Wine Tasting Class for the Dames at Total Wine with Sarah as the coordinator… I’m one of the few people with my own personal sommelier. Sarah has an innate ability to know what the current trends are, and her enthusiasm to get a project just right is infectious. A piece of advice to working with your daughter is simple: Listen. Discuss. Finalize. Enjoy.”

Sarah reminisces about working with her mother. “Instead of going to summer camp, I went with her to the studio and cleaned dishes. As I grew older, I was allowed to cook and prepare more of the food. She took me to Campbell’s test kitchen for a behind-thescenes look. It was a great place to see strong women in the workplace. The creativity in the kitchen was inspirational; my love for this world grew.”

“My mother puts her heart into everything,” she continues. “Her energy and creativity are boundless, and her fortitude is to never give up. It motivates me at every moment, because she is who I want to be when I am older. I’ve learned from her that there is always someone with the knowledge to teach you something new. Never stop learning.

When you work with someone who is literally YOU from another generation, you’ll bump heads! These same stresses will make you a better, stronger team at the core. Embrace life with your mother. Spend as much time as you can together, you will always look back fondly (even at the fights). I’ll always smile when I think of my mom.”

Alexandria Stone Flowers and Deborah Stone

“A woman is the full circle. Within her is the power to create, nurture, and transform.” – Diane Mariechild

Alexandria Stone Flowers and her mother Deborah Stone co-own and operate Stone Hollow Farmstead, and FarmStand by Stone Hollow, a mercantile and artisan grocery. The primary business revolves around growing and cultivating dahlias and producing artisanal jams and jellies. Botaniko Skin is their natural-based skincare line that Deborah says Alex is especially passionate about.

Deborah oversees farm production, cultivation of crops and flowers, and commercial kitchen management. She and Alex collaborate on crafting new artisanal products and ensuring the integrity of the brand.

“I serve as creative director,” says Alex, “working closely with my mother and our team to bring new ideas to life. I focus on product development, branding, and business strategy. My mother’s expertise and deep connection to the land continue to be the foundation of all that we do. Endlessly creative, resourceful, and forward-thinking, she has an incredible ability to see what’s possible before anyone else and the determination to bring those ideas to fruition.”

Deborah responds, “Alex inspires me every day with her dedication and creativity. Her vision, keen eye for design, and deep passion for skincare and botanicals helped shape Botaniko Skin into what it is today. Her incredible work ethic and fresh perspective keeps our business evolving.”

As members of LDEI Birmingham, they value the opportunity to fundraise, give back to the community, and connect with likeminded women who share their passion for food, sustainability, and craftsmanship. “The mother-daughter bond is special,” says Deborah, “and having the opportunity to build something meaningful together—both in our business and within LDEI—is a gift I cherish every day.”

Alex and Deborah have learned a lot about the value of patience and trust. Alex’s advice to other mother-daughter duos: “Working with family means knowing when to listen, when to push, and when to step back. Set boundaries between work and personal life— sometimes you have to turn off “work mode” and just be mother and daughter.” Deborah believes communication and mutual respect are key. “Understand that you both bring unique strengths to the table; embrace your differences. Our strengths balance each other—my foundation in traditional craftsmanship and Alex’s fresh take on branding and aesthetics make for a dynamic partnership.”

Amelia Levin and Karen Levin

“Reflecting on my mother’s life, I see the map she created for me to find joy, strength, and courage.”

My mom Karen Levin always said, “life is short.” She lived her life in that truth—fully alive, fully in the moment, passionate about her career as a recipe developer and cookbook author, and utterly devoted to Les Dames d’Escoffier Chicago and her many chapter friends and colleagues. Not only was she a devoted mom to my brother and me—she was my greatest mentor as I follow in her footsteps as a food writer and cookbook author. From a young age, I was an unofficial “Dame-intraining,” accompanying my mom to chapter events.

When I was just 12 years old, I accompanied her to a Chicago Dames event at Shaw’s where I met Julia Child and slurped on raw oysters alongside her. Later, as an adult and second generation Dame, I joined my mom and friends at the two popular events she created and hosted—Dames who Drink, and the annual Ravinia Festival summer picnic. Recipes from the picnic made it into the Green City Market cookbook we worked on with other Dames.

Sadly, in 2021, my mom was diagnosed with Primary Progressive Aphasia, a form of frontotemporal degeneration, and her condition has worsened in the last year. As children of parents battling dementia and related diseases know—you live in a constant state of grief when the person you love slowly changes, slowly fades away. I am forever humbled, honored, and grateful that—during these challenging times—I can look back at those happy memories I shared with my mom and our lifelong chapter friends, while looking forward to giving back to the chapter and the industry in her legacy.

—Amelia Levin (Chicago)

Karen served as Chapter News Editor on the Quarterly staff in 2008-2009.

Emily Snyder and Dolores Snyder

“Strong women empower the world.”

Les Dames d’Escoffier meant the world to my mother, Dolores “Dodie” Snyder. She passed away November 2022 while living near me in Boca Raton, Florida. Until the end of her life, she supported the Dallas Chapter and all that LDEI stands for.

While studying on the French Riviera with Simone Beck, Dolores met Carol Brock and became inspired to start the Dallas Chapter. It was kismet! Besides her family, her life mission was continuing the incredible work Carol Brock had started in New York City.

How fortunate I was to be part of her world! It inspired me to explore a career in hospitality and move to N.Y.C., where in 2004, I was inducted into LDNY. Imagine the warm welcome I received due to her work and commitment to the organization.

Her most magical Dame moment was the surprise announcement at a Dallas Annual Meeting that a scholarship in Nutritional Sciences was being established in her name at her beloved alma mater, University of Texas, Austin. With her entire family

there to support her; I’ve never seen her so touched and proud in her life. So many wonderful memories… going to Edible London and Scotland…attending Conferences! Especially Philadelphia in 1989 and the night she was appointed International President. — Emily Snyder (South Florida).

Emily is a past president of the New York Chapter. Her professional accomplishments include Global VP of Sales for the Mandarin Hotel Group. A luxury hospitality leader, she currently serves as Chief Sales Officer for the Boca Raton. Her mother Dolores once said, “She exemplifies what the hospitality industry can be as a career opportunity for women.”