the feast - Les Dames d'Escoffier - Vol. 2. Iss. 2

REMEMBRANCES OF NATHALIE DUPREE

Award-winning Author & TV Personality

Southern Culinary Legend

Nathalie Evelyn Dupree could have coined the popular adage that’s often found on tea towels, “I wasn’t born in the South but I got here as soon as I could!” When she was six-years-old, she moved with her family from New Jersey to Virginia and grew up to become the “Queen of Southern Cooking,” a phrase coined by Southern Living magazine. Nathalie was a founder of the Atlanta and Charleston Chapters and a beloved member of the North Carolina Chapter. Les Dames d’ Escoffier International honored her lifetime achievements with the designation “Grande Dame.” Throughout her accomplished career, Nathalie was always generous with her time and attention. She mentored countless Dames to accelerate their growth in food, hospitality, and life. The gift of mentorship flows in both directions, and Nathalie found that helping her protégés achieve their professional goals enriched her life as well. Several Dames from the chapters she nurtured share their personal reflections on the power of Nathalie’s mentorship. — Susan Slack (Charleston), Editor.

Nathalie Dupree: by Susan Slack.

CHARLESTON

“We all had our own version of Nathalie.” Mine— maybe because I am not a chef—revolved not around food so much as irreverent observations about life. A restaurant meal with her often was prolonged by staff coming by to pay tribute. During our regular lunches in Charleston, and our weekly calls in Raleigh, she would make the bawdiest observations and our conversations often devolved into helpless laughter.

Jennifer Goldman, former Charleston member and International president, adds “As a cofounding member of the Charleston Chapter, LDEI was the perfect vehicle for Nathalie’s driving force. She embodied mentorship, generously giving her time to usher women forward, both personally and professionally. During fundraiser planning she was always the first to volunteer for clean-up duty and when necessary, she rallied lagging participation—mostly by threatening to step in and micromanage. Whether you knew it or not, once you entered her circle, she took a vested interest in your success and inspired you to make your own circle a little bigger.”

Nathalie was a mother hen to food stylist and cookbook author Ashley Strickland Freeman who shares, “I was one of Nathalie's “chickens” as she'd like to call us—an apprentice for her before I attended culinary school and then on to work for the Oxmoor House test kitchens (the publishing house for Southern Living magazine and others). Nathalie taught me so much—how to write a proper recipe headnote, how to organize a cookbook, and to be bold—to make that phone call and take that leap of faith. She loved connecting people and was so generous. Always up for a visit, she was happy to give me advice whenever I needed it. Witty and sarcastic, Nathalie had an amazing sense of humor.”

Jenni Lata, recipe developer and stylist, notes, “Nathalie was my sponsor to join the Charleston Chapter—the chapter she co-founded—but in a way she was everyone’s sponsor. Alongside her collection of antique asparagus tongs and French rolling pins, she brought together women with food career ambition. She broke down barriers and connected us at the individual level, knowing it would lift up the whole. She lived with a vibrant spirit of curiosity, generosity, and camaraderie that I believe defines not only the spirit of LDEI, but the Charleston food and beverage community today.”

—From Helen Mitternight (Charleston)

NORTH CAROLINA CHAPTER

Marcie Cohen Ferris recounts, Once Nathalie Dupree proclaimed, “YOU NEED A DAMES CHAPTER IN NORTH CAROLINA,” there was no going back. When the Queen speaks, you step up and get it done! I am deeply grateful for Nathalie’s friendship and mentorship. We were introduced by our University of Mississippi husbands (Jack and Bill) who introduced us in Oxford. I loved everything about her, but mostly her frank honesty, wry humor, smarts, and inimitable style. (Her fabulous hairstylist was in NYC—but of course!) Nathalie was one of the great voices of Southern food writing and journalism who fought sexism and inequity in the profession while opening doors and creating opportunities for the next generation.”

Susi Gott Séguret reveals, “Nathalie gave me permission, by example, to stack up books on every spare surface of every counter, including kitchen counters and even the bed, and definitely the stairs and living room floor. She gave me permission to be fearless to lead with determination. Her vision of bridging the state of North Carolina with one continuous chapter has been the spark that has ignited many friendships and a force of women who are greater together than singly.”

Susan Dosier says, "Nathalie was so kind to me when I was a young editor at Southern Living. I was a bit in awe of her, a little intimidated. She was always so gracious, so warm. I was most impressed with her hospitality when I made a call to her in Charleston after I'd moved to PR. She asked me over, and she and Jack and I spent the loveliest hours that afternoon together. We talked about everything. I remember her making a joke about their address being 100 Queen Street. Nathalie had such a zest for life, such wit. She and Jack were a lovely pair. We all benefited from the energy and love they shared."

—From Tracy Stukrath (North Carolina)

ATLANTA

Virginia Willis reminisces, “I was Nathalie Dupree’s apprentice when she co-founded the Atlanta Chapter. During the launch, I was in awe of the women in her living room, all culinary leaders. It’s my honor to be a member and have served as president of our chapter. Arriving at her home as an unpaid apprentice, I was a young woman who was unskilled but liked to cook and was hungry to learn. Her home was filled with art; the sounds of classical music filled the air. Her cookbook library had more inventory than most bookstores. The copper couscoussier she picked up in a shop in Morocco was a thing of glory to me, and not because of its glowing handhammered patina. She was larger than life.

Nathalie took me out of my mother and grandmother’s kitchen, exposed me to food and ingredients I had only read about in books. She sent me off to culinary school, introduced me to Anne Willan, and opened the door for me at Martha Stewart…I would not be the woman I am today without the love and guidance of Nathalie…Of all my accolades and awards, one of the greatest honors in my career is that I was one of her devoted chickens. —Virginia Willis Culinary Enterprises, Inc.

Nathalie Dupree’s James Beard Award medallions. Photo: Susan Slack

Charleston President Mary Kay Gill reports that Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree made a bequest to the Charleston Chapter in the form of many of her personal items. The chapter intends to host an online auction in the early summer and is currently working on the event details. All proceeds raised will go toward the chapter's culinary scholarships. Watch for additional details, which will be shared soon.