Mannequin by BA Magazine Journalism and Publishing

MANNEQUIN ISSUE ONE | SHOES

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BE BOLD WEAR

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WELCOME

STORIES WITH SOLE |THE TEAM| Co-Editors, Writers & Design Amy Clarke & Elly Merry Contributing Photographers Davey Tyler, Thomas-James Fisher & Dean Greenwood P.7 Photography Elly Merry Backpage Photography Amy Clarke

Welcome to the launch issue of MANNEQUIN magazine! We’ve created an anthology for the avid reader, the story seeker and the fashionably mature. Our magazine operates on the belief that everybody should be able to be confident and comfortable in their fashion. Our readers don’t - or no longer - feel the need to reach for the more prescriptive fashion titles. We appreciate the aesthetics of fashion, but clothes slung onto a faceless mannequin is not enough for us. We’re aiming to challenge the traditional fashion and lifestyle magazine, by creating a fashion storybook that goes beyond the clothes and discovering the stories to be told behind them. In our launch issue, we’re thinking about stories with ‘sole’ - shoes! We’ll be stepping into the mega heels of a London Club Kid for our cover story; where “minimum

effort and maximum fun” is key. We’re also talking about the newly dubbed ‘most influential film of all time’, The Wizard of Oz, and the creation of the most famous shoes in cinematic history. We get chatting to a Spice Girls super-fan and reveal the secret life of a woman who goes barefoot. There’s something for everyone in this issue and we hope you enjoy reading it as much as we’ve enjoyed creating it.

AJ & ELLY

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CONTENTS

WHAT’S INSIDE...

There’s No Shoe Like... we take a look at just how influential Dorothy’s ruby slippers have been

8 Prince Jay Jay A Club Kid with

a weak spot for platform boots

14 Spice Up Your Life The fan

who photographed the girl group’s mammoth collection of footwear

16 Sierra Larson The barefoot

blogger who never wears shoes

18 Social Pictures by you

centred around the theme of footwear on Instagram

“Minimum effort, maximum f u n ” - Prince Jay

Jay (p8)

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MANNEQUIN

O N S ’ E R E

FEATURE

There’s no place like home. One of the most famous pair of shoes in the world, Dorothy Gale’s ruby slippers still capture our imaginations almost 80 years after their heels were first clicked on screen in August 1939. Originally silver in L. Frank Baum’s literary world, MGM wanted to show off their Technicolor and transformed them to red, and in one fell swoop, an icon was created. An icon that no one could have predicted would influence pop culture, fashion and cinema ever after. We all know Dorothy’s story and we can all sing along to ‘we’re off to see the Wizard, the Wonderful Wizard of Oz!’ - don’t pretend you didn’t read that to the tune! The story; a girl who desperately wants to escape her monochromatic reality, but once her wish comes true and she’s somewhere over the rainbow, all she wants is to be home. The striking message of the story is, to some, a cautionary tale to be careful what you wish for, and to others it’s a story of realising one’s inner power. The slippers are a clear representation of Dorothy’s own potential power; it’s all right there inside of her, she just doesn’t know how to use it yet. It’s only after Dorothy navigates the realms of Oz with the help of her colourful friends, that she’s able to unlock that power through her shoes and use it to get what she wants -to be home. The Wizard of Oz and the ruby slippers have been paid tribute to through cinema many times over the century, but one of the most notable is David Lynch’s 1990 neo-noir black comedy Wild at Heart. The movie, starring Nicholas Cage and Laura Dern, tells the story of protagonists and lovers Sailor and Lula who go on the run from paid assassins hired to kill Sailor. Lynch pays direct homage to Oz throughout the movie, with appearances from Glinda the Good Witch and also the famous ruby slippers. The power of home comforts is emulated in Wild at Heart through Dern’s character Lula, during a scene in which she clicks her heels together after a disturbing encounter with Willem Defoe’s character. The magical ruby

06 MANNEQUIN

Step into the shoes of a movie that’s been dubbed the most infulential cinematic release of all time

SHOE

LIKE...

slippers have not only influenced the realms of cinema, however. In Vogue’s December issue of 2005, renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz and former creative director Grace Coddington created a striking cover shot of actress Kiera Knightly as Dorothy. The photo feature, in honour of Oz author L. Frank Baum’s birthday, depicts Knightly dressed in Oz inspired clothing designed by Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Oscar De La Renta, Prada and Yves Saint Laurent. But it’s not only the Western World that has been touched by the wonderful land of Oz. A footwear collection dubbed The Kansas Project which was launched in 2009 included many Asian based designers. This exclusive collection showcased designs from Jimmy Choo, Diane Von Furstenburg and Betsy Johnson; with designs paying homage to Dorothy’s ruby red slippers with holographic sequins; with proceeds at auction donated to the Glaser AIDs Foundation. The ruby slippers are a comforting symbol that remind us that many of our problems can be solved by stripping back to the basics - by returning home. This sobering motif is a big part of the reason why Oz still resonates so much even in contemporary culture; the story itself is timeless. Dorothy’s journey is one that we can all relate to in one capacity or another; we have all experienced that feeling of wanting to find that place over the rainbow, but it’s not always quite what we had thought it would be cracked up to be. No matter if it’s in cinema or the height of couture fashion, the impact of MGM’s adaptation of Baum’s literary is undeniably the defining stamp of the land of Oz on culture. From the unforgettable quotes and images, The Wizard Of Oz reminds us, in the words of Glinda the Good Witch: “You’ve always had the power my dear, you just had to learn it for yourself.” M

Words and Photography by Elly Merry

P J

E C RIN Y A J Y JA COVER

FROM AN INSPIRED FASHION ID K B U L C L A N IO T A N R E T IN STUDENT TO

Words by Amy Clarke Photography by Davey Tyler

“Fuck knows why I didn’t get an Uber,” Prince JayJay is recalling the time he ran for a bus with his friend whilst wearing YRU Platforms after a night out, only for his friend to catch the whole thing on video. “The platform snapped off, like you can hear the snap so loud in the video. I wobble, spin around, face plant the floor and roll over like… we’ve missed the bus.” JayJay has sort of learnt his lesson, because most of the time he is wearing trainers due to the fact he is always running around London, but he does have a major soft spot for platform shoes. “From the beginning, I’ve never found them difficult to walk in, even when I’m very intoxicated I manage them fine. It’s when they break because of bad design, that’s when I fall. Many YRU shoes break, every pair I’ve owned, so I avoid them now.” The platform, he says, completes the Prince JayJay look, and creates that tall and slender appearance that adds to his character. “Minimum effort, maximum fun,” is JayJay’s motto when it comes to his colourfully bold, in-your-face style that is usually complete with a big pair of sensational

shoes - he does just want to head to the club as quickly as possible, after all. Currently sat wearing comfortable Fila brand trainers - the complete opposite to his outlandish persona - the London Club Kid is taking a break from his DJing to chat to MANNEQUIN, but like anyone else who loves their job, it is always on his mind. “I’m off to DJ in Helsinki,” he beams with an almost childish grin, similar to that of a kid who has a whole chocolate bar to devour. “And then to Amsterdam, my second home, for my own club night called Boy Toy at Club NYX.” JayJay, who also goes by the birth name Jason, is so comfortable in what he calls his full club attire that he feels like he owns everything, “but in an endearing way, of course,” he chuckles. “In my usual day-today I am quite shy but also introverted. It’s quite an odd juxtaposition.” But you can feel that difference sat with him now. There is a realness about someone who has ‘dresseddown’ from glitzy boots and fishnets to trainers and jeans. He can certainly talk about himself in a way that makes you want

MANNEQUIN

EVEN WHEN Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;M I N T O X I C AT E D , I MANAGE P L AT F O R M SHOES FINE

COVER

to listen, but there was a different JayJay at the photo shoot, one who looked you in the eye and wouldn’t turn away, oozing so much confidence and on-point swagger that you couldn’t help but think that he was the Prince (albeit one who wears lots of make-up and parties in Soho). There is a twinkle in his eye as he fondly talks about getting into the scene and accidentally creating a career out of it. “It started from a subculture project at university. We all had to pick one from this list and I chose Club Kids. I have always loved dressing up, partying and just being a different character than I am usually day-today.” The Club Kid phenomenon began in the late 1980s in New York, which was originally a collective of dance club personalities known for their flamboyant behaviour and outrageous costumes. They were recognised as a fashion-conscious youth culture with gender fluidity and a DIY manifesto in the mix. Even though the original Club Kids of the 80s and 90s are no longer prominent having declined in the mid-90s, the atheistic of the style - rather than the crazy behaviour - has carried on into today’s youth culture. “When I started dressing up it wasn’t as popular as it is today, so I was just having fun and went with my birth name,” he recalls. “I then realised quickly it was becoming a thing. People were following me [on social media], clubs were booking me and then the persona just kinda named itself. I mean, I’ve always been referred to as ‘The Prince’ by my family.” Before DJing he was working in the scene, creating big costumes to showcase in the clubs on the dance floor, and basically being paid to party. “I wanted more from the scene so I began to teach myself how to DJ and thus, here I am: Superstar Club Kid International DJ!” Being a DJ hasn’t only given him a purpose in the Club Kid world, it has also meant he has been able to travel around the globe doing a job he loves. “I never really imagined my life like this. By far my favourite place to DJ was Tokyo, just because it’s been a dream of mine to go since I was very young. So to get flown over there and to DJ was incredible. Very grateful to the club FancyHim.”

12 MANNEQUIN

I NEVER IMAGINED MY LIFE LIKE THIS

Our conversation turns back to his platform boots as we discuss the fabulous pair worn in the MANNEQUIN photo shoot. “I love a huge platform,” he says as he admires the photos proudly showing off the blue mammoth boots. “The higher, the better. I remember my first pair were not that big but still bigger than the average shoe.” But he still hasn’t found that perfect pair, which he says would have “huge-ass stilt platforms that are indestructible and support the ankle, cater for all foot sizes and available in pastel shades.” He realises he might be looking a while for those, though. If there is something about JayJay to admire, it is the detail he puts into his style. The make-up is applied last which is inspired by the clothes he wears - everything “from the colours, the shape and the vibe.” One of the biggest influences in style direction is taken from the shoes he chooses to wear that evening. Even though being a Club Kid is far from new, this fresh take on the modernday version is a fun and varied collective of millennials who explore their sexuality, gender and individual creativity. Social media now plays a big part in giving them a platform to embrace their unique personas, which is something JayJay uses to his advantage. M @princejayjay

Q&A “I ASKED MY MOTHER FOR A PAIR OF BUFFALO BOOTS AND SHE TOLD ME THEY WERE CUSTOM MADE FOR GIRLS. LIES!”

Words by Amy Clarke Photography by Thomas-James Fisher [who is pictured top of page]

14 MANNEQUIN

P U E SPIC E F I L OUR BOY AND N FA S 0 9 S K L TA R E H THOMAS-JAMES FIS AM LIVING A SPICE-Y DRE

East London-based Thomas has loved the Spice girls since their breakthrough back in 1996. Twenty-two years on, and with a comeback world tour on the horizon, the professional photographer got the once in a life time chance to take pictures of their clothing. This included a plethora of shoes, from platforms to sneakers, all of which were worn on tour and for promotional material. Mannequin caught up with the man himself to find out just how many shoes he actually photographed... You grew up as a 90s Spice Girls fan. Was there a feeling of nostalgia when you photographed their memorabilia for an exhibition? It actually brought back lots of old happy memories seeing the clothing and shoes again. It brought back flash backs of my childhood weekends staying at my gran’s house were I’d watch Top of the Pop’s with her. I also enjoyed the aspect that most of the clothing was homemade and not by big designers. There was around fifty pairs of shoes altogether. That’s a lot! Were there any you couldn’t get hold of for the exhibition that you would

have liked to have seen? I would have loved to see the ‘GERI’ Buffalo Boots she wore in the Pepsi advert. Overall, how long do you think it took you to photograph every item? The photo shoot was done over two days in Manchester. When we think of certain 90s shoes, the platform comes to mind. Do you think that the Spice Girls put these into the mainstream with their style? Platforms had been huge during the 80s and 90s. What the Spice Girls did was put the trainer style platform on the market. They wore lots of Buffalo Boots that were massive. I remember asking my mother to buy me a pair and she told me they were custom made for the girls - lies. So I used to stand in the garden on top of two bricks to try [and] re-creative my own shoes, ha ha.

were my age now during the 90s, there was lots of freedom - London life was buzzing. You can say what you want about the 90s, but nobody can lie and say that when a 90s tune comes on, the dance floor is not packed. Are there any of these shoes that you would consider a favourite? I love the glitter Union Jack shoes by Shellys London worn by Geri. They are so beautiful, but I also love the orange Buffalo Boots worn by Mel B as they were my childhood obsession. Speaking of favourites, is there a Spice Girls member who you admired more than the others? I loved them all for different reasons, but I would have to say Geri as during my childhood she made it cool to be a ginger kid, hashtag ginger power. M

It’s also something that is reviving today along with the 90s vibe in general. Is this something you can still get on board with, or should the 90s stay in the 90s? Like with every generation, the 90s had its problems, but looking back and also asking people who

MANNEQUIN

BLOGGER Many men and women all around the globe are obsessed with shoes; but how many of them do you know who are obsessed with avoiding them?

“BAREFOOTING HAD BEEN MY NORM FOR SO LONG, I DIDN’T REALISE IT WAS WEIRD”

Words by Elly Merry Photography by Dean Greenwood Other images curtosy of Sierra Larson

16 MANNEQUIN

Meet twenty-something Sierra Larson, owner of the blog Sierra: The Barefoot Girl; one of the most influential barefoot platforms around. “I don’t like shoes, they hurt my feet and I feel cut off from the world when I can’t feel the ground beneath me.” Many may presume that going barefoot is incredibly dangerous. Even flip-flops can be a risky business as showcased by my cousin, Sophie, who once whilst on holiday in Portugal managed to slice her soles through a fresh pile of dog faeces. Honestly, I can see more potential issues than benefits to going bare. I know my personal fear would be trampling through shards of smashed glass or reliving the dreaded dog poo saga. Sierra disagrees. “Barefooting makes you take notice of your surroundings, don’t want to step in shit? Watch where you walk.” She said it with rather a joking tone - but I already had the feeling that this woman wasn’t playing around. While Sierra has gone barefoot for most of her life, it was in June 2009 that she eschewed footwear completely. Larson had uploaded some photos of herself with some art she had created online in which she was barefoot. To her surprise, a commenter asked her if she was a barefooter. “I was like, what the hell is a barefooter?” she said. After that she discovered other people who shared their barefoot lifestyles online and felt encouraged. “Barefooting had been my norm for so long, I didn’t realise it was weird, I lived on a farm where everybody had bare feet all the time.” Choosing the barefoot life comes with its challenges and Larson shared some of the more negative experiences she’s had. “I’ve been kicked out of Walmart and Tim Horton’s,” she listed. “One time we’d gone out to dinner for my son’s fifth birthday and a waitress told me my feet were disgusting and that I could come in without shoes.”

Larson is an officer for Barefoot Is Legal; a barefoot campaign group that contests the exclusion of shoeless customers from public establishments. “There are no laws that force footwear in public spaces and no states in the United States ban bare feet for patrons citing health regulations,” she said, “We have a form online where those who have been harassed for going barefoot can report unfriendly businesses and we put out a weekly radio show discussing the challenges we face.” Working with the Barefoot Is Legal organisation led Larson to the publication of her book A Brief Guide to Barefooting (2017), in which she lays out all of the legalities that all barefooters need to know. The book also gives tips for dealing with individuals and businesses that oppose any lack of footwear with some quick anecdotes from the barefoot girl herself. Larson’s talents don’t stop there; her writing career beginning at just seven years old. Sierra won a Young Writer of the Year award for a short story she had sent into a national newspaper. Since then, she has self-published five books, including a fiction series called Red 72, which tells the story of a young couple’s battle with a terror organisation hell-bent on taking over America by means of bio-weapons. Talking about her journey in writing, Sierra told me “I’ve been an active writer and bookworm all my life, I sometimes stop and think to myself, if I didn’t write where would I be right now?” And it’s true, all of Larson’s success has balled down to her ability to write to touch a somewhat taboo community of barefooters. “My ability to tell stories has meant that my barefoot life and my imagination have been let loose on the world - whether they like it or not,” Sierra joked, “my barefoot life doesn’t define me, but it’s what’s gotten me to this point and I’m pretty proud of what I’ve been able to achieve.” M

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