“Jack-Ass'' is a denim modular jacket which embraces the topic of metamorphosis, as it can be worn at parties or in the uni workshops. It consists of an upper part with velcro and a lower part with buttons. The pockets are interchangeable and can hold various tools, such as a calibre or pliers.
This garment is meant to provide flexibility to the user, who can choose which pockets to use according to different needs.
For our first exercise, all students had an assigned photographer to research. about. In my case, I was asked to explore and be inspired by Cindy Sherman's work. Hell yes!
Untitled #30 Cindy Sherman
In this self-portrait I attempted to channel a theatrical effect just like Cindy Sherman, by playing with light and darkness, makeup and water and especially, emotion (or at least I tried).
The second exercise consisted in portraying an INTERACTION, a reciprocal connection between two or more bodies.
Me interacting with something
Me interacting with someone through something
Me interacting with a space through something
Exploring the body with drawings and mock-ups through haptics and sight, teaches you about PROPORTION. Anthropometry and ergonomics are essential in a design process.
I kicked off my research with a scoop of history of fashion design. From Issey MIYAKE, to Hussein CHALAYAN, to Alexander MCQUEEN.
All three fashion designers were able to incorporate the concept of 'METAMORPHOSIS' in their outstanding, revolutionary performances.
Coffee Table Dress
Hussein Chalayan A/W00
No. 13, S/S 1999
Alexander McQueen
I started researching about utilitarian fashion design and military uniforms, and I was immediately fascinated by the numerous pockets with different needs.
Canoeing vest
I was inspired by Bruno MUNARI's gilet, created to display books, and the first overalls ever drawn, by Ernesto THAYAHT.
We read a book to learn how to efficiently and impulsively write a mindmap. The pen reflects what we have in our minds and the paper demonstrates and explains it.
Mind Map by Tony Buzan
I started by extending body parts, such as my back and my legs. I was experimenting between lightness and heaviness.
I then thought about drawing a garment that could carry load and also be useful. Pockets were my main focus, followed by aesthetics.
I impulsively draw the gilet, straight on the fabric. I played with the black of the denim and a turquoise fabric. In a second moment I sewn the velcro and a pocket, the latter was later removed from the final design, as a fixed pocket would make no sense in a modular garment.
I drew several sketches, to decide patterns, colours, what type of pockets I wanted and relative function, distance between pockets and bottons. And especially how I could interchange the pockets on multiple sides of the jacket.
The pockets are attachable with velcro, on the upper top, and buttons on the lower part. Of 36 buttons, 26 are functional.
Pocket with zipper
Designing a garment both for an entertainment purpose and a functional èpurpose is hard, since the aesthetic component has to be versatile. My aim was to design a flexible product that could meet these needs and to embrace the topic of metamorphosis.
I attempted to achieve a change in fashion and design, through the study of university students (and workers) necessities.
MoMA, (no date). Cindy Sherman.
Untitled Film Still #30. Accessed 09.06.2023.
https://www.moma.org/collection/works/56687
VOGUE, (15.02.2000). Hussein Chalayan.
Chalayan Fall 2000
Ready-to-Wear. Accessed 9.06.2023.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/chalayan
Met Museum, (11.2003). Alexander McQueen. Savage Beauty. Accessed 09.06.2023.
https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/dress-no-13/
Canoeing vest, (no date). Accessed 09.06.2023.
https://pathspeakspaddles.com/shop/stohlquist-trekker-mens/
Le gallerie degli Uffizi, (no date). Ernesto Thayaht. Trouser suit pattern. Accessed 09.06.2023
https://www.uffizi.it/en/artworks/tuta-thayaht-en
CQ Italia, (20.04.2023). Bruno Munari. Il gilet disegnato da Bruno Munari ci farà venir voglia di indossarne uno. Accessed 09.06.2023.
https://www.gqitalia.it/article/gilet-bruno-munari
Buzan Tony. (1995). The Mind Map Book. LOndon: BBC Book Publishing.
By layla borghi By layla borghi By layla borghiSupervised by:
Free University of Bozen-Bolzano
Freie Universitaeät Bozen
Libera universitàa di Bolzano
Caroline Perez
Camilo Ayala Garcia
Gerhard Glüueher <3