13 minute read
RECIPE FOR REJUVENATION
HANDS-ON 25 MIN TOTAL 50 MIN SERVES 2 SUBMITTED BY MELANIE GIOVENZANA (BUCKWHEAT QUEEN) This is a true Italian winter favorite. It blends the tang of Gorgonzola, the rich earthiness of walnuts, and the slight bitterness of radicchio. The balsamic glaze takes it over the top! This is excellent served with salmon.
2 REVIEWS
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1 qt. low-sodium vegetable stock, or as needed 2 Tbsp. olive oil ¼ cup minced carrot ¼ cup minced celery 2 Tbsp. minced onion ¾ cup Arborio rice 2 Tbsp. red wine 1 head radicchio, thinly sliced 3 oz. Gorgonzola cheese, cut into cubes ⅓ cup chopped toasted walnuts Salt, to taste (optional) 2 Tbsp. balsamic glaze 2 Tbsp. grated Parmigiano-
Reggiano cheese
1 . Bring vegetable stock to a boil in a saucepan. Reduce heat to low and let simmer. In another saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add carrot, celery, and onion; cook, stirring, until onion is translucent, about 2 minutes. Stir in rice; cook, stirring, until rice is coated with oil and warm, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in wine until rice is coated and wine is absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. 2 . Add 1 ladleful of hot vegetable stock to rice mixture; cook, stirring continuously, until stock is absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Continue adding stock, a ladleful at a time, cooking and stirring after each addition, until liquid is absorbed and risotto is easily broken when chewed, 10 to 15 minutes. 3 . Add radicchio, Gorgonzola, and walnuts; stir until cheese is completely melted, 2 to 3 minutes. Add more stock; cook until risotto is tender yet firm to the bite, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat. Let stand, covered, 1 minute. Season to taste with salt (if using). 4 . Serve topped with balsamic glaze and Parmigiano-Reggiano. armagazine.com/risotto-con-radicchio
HIDDEN GEM VEGETARIAN GLUTEN-FREE
PER 2-CUP SERVING: 738 CAL; 40G FAT (12G SAT); 19G PRO; 75G CARB (6G FIBER, 9G SUGARS); 924MG SODIUM
recipe for r ej uve n a t i o n r ej uve n a t i o n
editor’s note In every culture, there are recipes for comfort and healing, dishes people make to nourish both body and soul. Cookbook author, chef, teacher, and cancer fighter Raghavan Iyer is on a mission to ensure that more of these recipes from all cultures find their way onto recovery menus—in hospitals and even at your neighborhood or workplace feel-better-food brigade. Through his Revival Foods Project and in this piece, he is gathering and sharing recipes for global comfort foods that encourage healing. Dig in and read on to see how you can help.
PHOTOS BRIE PASSANO
FOOD STYLING CHARLIE WORTHINGTON
PROP STYLING SUE MITCHELL
kitchen tip
You can find fresh curry leaves, part of the citrus family, in the produce aisle at Indian grocery stores, health food stores, or Southeast Asian markets. They’re also sometimes sold frozen or dried. People typically eat around them or remove them if they are used whole in a recipe, but they can be consumed if chopped up. Note: There’s really not a good substitute for curry leaves, so if you don’t have them, just leave them out.
BY RAGHAVAN IYER
four Decembers ago, I was working to launch a new tandoor-fired pizza restaurant called Pizza Karma when I learned I had stage 4 colorectal cancer. This shattering diagnosis upended my life with an 18-month ordeal that involved multiple surgeries, CT scans, MRIs, intense chemotherapy, radiation treatments, poking, prodding, and profound despair. Immersed for the first time in the American health care system, I was fortunate to receive exceptional care and achieve a promising remission. But there was one critical source of healing that was missing from the menu of expensive treatments offered to patients like me: healthy, wellprepared, culturally diverse food.
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R A G H A V A N ’ S U P P A M A
HANDS-ON 10 MIN TOTAL 30 MIN SERVES 4 SUBMITTED BY RAGHAVAN IYER NEW RECIPE GO ONLINE TO RATE & REVIEW
This savory porridge, breakfast fare in South Indian kitchens, is my childhood favorite. A bit like polenta but made with creamy wheat cereal, it brings absolute satisfaction during my down-and-out days.
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. ghee or unsalted butter 1 cup uncooked creamy wheat cereal, such as Cream of Wheat (not instant) 1 tsp. black or yellow mustard seeds ¼ cup raw cashews 1 to 3 dried red chiles (such as chiles de arbol), stems removed 1 large carrot, cut into ¼ -inch pieces 1 cup frozen peas 10 to 12 medium to large fresh curry leaves (optional) ¼ tsp. turmeric 3 to 3¼ cups water 1 tsp. coarse sea salt 2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 . Melt ¼ cup ghee in a large skillet over medium heat. Pour in creamy wheat cereal; toast, stirring frequently, until light brown and nutty smelling, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Wipe skillet with a paper towel. 2 . Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. ghee in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add mustard seeds; cover and wait until seeds stop popping (like popcorn), about 30 seconds. Add cashews and chiles; stir-fry until nuts are golden brown and chiles blacken, 1 to 2 minutes. 3 . Stir in carrot, peas, curry leaves (if using), and turmeric; stir-fry about 2 minutes. Stir in 3 cups water and the salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, covered, until carrots are fork-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. 4 . Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in toasted cream of wheat. (It will instantly absorb liquid and begin to swell.) Cover and cook until fully softened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand, covered, 3 to 5 minutes. 5 . Stir in remaining ¼ cup water if desired for a creamier texture. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve warm. armagazine.com/raghavans-uppama QUICK VEGETARIAN PER 1¼ CUPS: 455 CAL; 28G FAT (14G SAT); 9G PRO; 43G CARB (4G FIBER, 4G SUGARS); 644MG SODIUM
B E E F P H O HANDS-ON 30 MIN TOTAL 16 HR, 30 MIN SERVES 6 SUBMITTED BY LETT101
★★★★☆ 151 REVIEWS This South Vietnamese-style pho—a restorative, richly seasoned broth ladled over rice noodles and thinly sliced beef—is served with a host of crisp, tangy, spicy, sweet, and fragrant garnishes. This version, a slight departure from Lett101’s original, involves charring the onion and ginger to deepen their flavor. This is a bowl that brings comfort with every sip and slurp.
5 lb. beef soup bones 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. salt 2 onions, quartered 1 (4-inch) piece fresh ginger 2 lb. beef oxtail 1 daikon, sliced (about 1 lb.) 1 oz. whole star anise 1 small cinnamon stick 2 whole cloves 1 tsp. black peppercorns 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. fish sauce 11/2 lb. dried flat rice noodles 1/2 lb. beef sirloin, frozen until firm Hoisin sauce, sriracha, thinly sliced green onion, chopped fresh cilantro, mung bean sprouts,
Thai basil, and quartered limes
1 . Put beef bones in a 9- to 10-qt. pot; add 1 Tbsp. salt and 2 gal. water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, about 2 hours. 2 . Meanwhile, preheat broiler. Put onion quarters and unpeeled ginger on a foil-lined 10x15-inch roasting pan. Broil 4 to 5 inches from heat until onion and ginger are charred, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool slightly. Chop onions. Peel and slice ginger. 3 . Skim fat from surface of broth, then add oxtail, daikon, and charred onions. Tie anise, cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns, and charred ginger in a square of cheesecloth; add to broth. Stir in sugar, fish sauce, and remaining 2 tsp. salt. Simmer over medium-low heat at least 4 hours (the longer, the better). Strain broth. Discard spices and
PER 22/3 CUPS: 533 CAL; 7G FAT (3G SAT); 20G PRO; 93G CARB (2G FIBER, 2G SUGARS); 1,732MG SODIUM
bones. Reserve meat from bones for other uses, if desired. Add more salt to broth as needed. Chill overnight. 4 . Skim fat from top of chilled broth. Bring broth to a boil; reduce heat and keep hot until ready to serve. 5 . Cook rice noodles in boiling water according to package directions until soft but not mushy. Cut sirloin into paper-thin slices. 6 . Divide noodles among bowls (11/2 cups per bowl). Top each with a few raw sirloin slices. Ladle boiling broth into bowls to cook beef and cover noodles. Serve with hoisin, sriracha, green onion, cilantro, bean sprouts, basil, and limes. armagazine.com/beef-pho
It’s so smart to prepare the broth the day before and leave it in the fridge overnight. Once it cools down, the fat from the meat floats on top, so you can easily skim it off. ”
– ROCKSOUP
kitchen tip
For easier slicing, freeze the beef 1½ hours. It’ll be firm enough to slice thinly but not too frozen to get your knife through. You don’t have to be a chef to know that hospital food deserves its terrible reputation. During my treatment, as I struggled with a compromised palate and immune system, I encountered tasteless, high-sugar, highsodium, low-fiber foods— precisely the over-processed and undernourishing foods that have been blamed for many of our country’s chronic health problems.
While grilled cheese and mashed potatoes may be offered as comfort food in this setting, my own training and cultural background have taught me there are much better food choices from global cuisines that really do restore health. Take, for instance, the immune-boosting power of Vietnamese pho, the souring comfort Ethiopian injera brings to an ailing stomach, the way the turmeric and ginger common in Indian cuisine can relieve inflammation and overcome nausea.
With our growing embrace of international flavors and foods, I wondered: Why hasn’t the wisdom of the world’s home cooks and healers found its way into hospital settings and dietary training where it can provide real comfort to an increasingly multicultural patient population? I’m not the first patient to see that our health care system’s relationship with food is highly dysfunctional. In fact, the same year I was diagnosed
★★★★★ 62 REVIEWS A popular Puerto Rican dish, this chicken and rice stew is a savory delight, nicely spiced but not peppery hot. And it’s as rejuvenating as a hug when you’re feeling under the weather.
2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs 1 packet (11/2 tsp.) light adobo seasoning (such as Sazón Goya with cilantro and tomatoes) 1/2 tsp. black pepper 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 cup chopped green bell pepper 1 cup chopped red bell pepper 1 cup chopped onion 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 6 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 (14.5-oz.) cans diced tomatoes 11/2 cups medium-grain rice 1 bay leaf 1 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper, or to taste 1 cup frozen petite peas, thawed 1 cup sliced pimiento-stuffed green olives 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish
1 . Season chicken with adobo seasoning and black pepper. Heat oil in a 6-qt. pot over medium-high heat. Add chicken; brown, 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Transfer to a plate. 2 . Add green and red bell peppers, the onion, garlic, and tomato paste to pot. Cook, stirring, until vegetables have softened slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. 3 . Return chicken to pot, along with broth, tomatoes, rice, bay leaf, salt, and crushed red pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until rice is tender and chicken is no longer pink, about 20 minutes. 4 . Stir in peas and olives; cook 5 minutes more. Remove from heat and discard bay leaf. If desired, remove chicken and shred, then return to pot. Stir in cilantro. Serve garnished with additional cilantro. armagazine.com/asopao-de-pollo
GLUTEN-FREE
PER 13/4 CUPS: 416 CAL; 12G FAT (2G SAT); 31G PRO; 44G CARB (3G FIBER, 6G SUGARS); 1,044MG SODIUM
“This is Puerto Rican comfort food. Very nice on a cold, rainy night. I added some sliced avocado on top. If I’d had pigeon peas on hand, I probably would have added them instead of the petite peas.” – LATINACOOK
“I’m convinced that the crunch of those pistachios, the soft greenness of all that basil, and the party of fresh tomatoes barely touched by heat can bring light and trip reminders that we’re still alive, able to know comfort and perhaps even
a spark of joy.” – LYNNE ROSSETTO KASPER
LY N N E ’ S L I N G U I N E C O N P E S T O D I P I S T A C C H I
HANDS-ON 15 MIN TOTAL 25 MIN SERVES 6 SUBMITTED BY LYNNE ROSSETTO KASPER AND RAGHAVAN IYER NEW RECIPE GO ONLINE TO RATE & REVIEW As comforting to make as it is to eat, this pesto pasta is one that The Splendid Table host and cookbook author Lynne Rossetto Kasper turned to often after her husband’s death.
1 cup shelled pistachio nuts 1/2 cup pine nuts 3 large unpeeled cloves garlic 1 cup firmly packed fresh basil leaves (or a mix of spearmint, peppermint, and basil) 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. coarse sea salt 1/2 tsp. coarsely cracked black pepper 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper 1 lb. dried linguini or spaghetti 1 lb. assorted cherry tomatoes, halved 1/2 cup shredded Parmigiano Reggiano
1. Heat a large heavy-bottom skillet over medium heat. Pile in pistachios and pine nuts. Cook, stirring frequently, until light brown and incredibly nutty smelling, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a food processor. 2. Add garlic to skillet and cook, turning occasionally, until softened and browned in patches, about 5 minutes. Remove to a plate to cool. Peel and add to food processor, along with basil, and process. With the blade still running, drizzle oil in through the chute. Once incorporated, transfer to a large bowl. Stir in salt, black pepper, and red pepper. 3. Meanwhile, cook linguine according to package directions until al dente. Reserve about 3/4 cup pasta water. Drain remaining water from pasta and give the colander a good shake or two. 4. Add pasta and tomatoes to pesto. Give it all a good mix and drizzle in enough of the reserved pasta water to get the nutty pesto to coat the pasta. Sprinkle with Parmigiano Reggiano. armagazine.com/lynnes-linguine-con- pesto-di-pistacchi
HEALTHY QUICK VEGETARIAN
PER 11/3 CUPS: 678 CAL; 39G FAT (6G SAT); 19G PRO; 67G CARB (6G FIBER, 6G SUGARS); 496MG SODIUM with cancer, delegates from the American Medical Association issued a policy statement calling for a reduction in sugary beverages and processed meats in hospital settings, combined with an increase in plant-based menu options.
Hospitals and health care settings could have a large role in this discussion, shifting the way we eat by teaching, sharing, and empowering patients and their families with healthier choices and home-cooking ideas. It’s a large-scale change that is long overdue, and one that I’m in a unique position to help lead. Not only do I have a deep, personal passion for helping home cooks create marvelous things with minimal, easy-tofind ingredients, I am also a cancer survivor and a person who is fortunate enough to have many friends in the food world to help share this work. I speak the language of suffering and recovery, words and emotions that cancer patients and those with chronic illnesses understand. My hope is to learn from others’ journeys to create a database of experiences and flavorful foods that will transcend compromised bodies, palates, energies, and appetites.
