Designers File Lauren Conde
Table of Contents 1.........Alexander McQueen 5........Iris Van Herpen 9........Jeremy Scott 13.......Betsey Johnson 17.......Christian Siriano 21.......Marc Jacobs 25......Marchesa 29.......Louis Vuitton 33......Givenchy 37.......Elie Saab
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen was born in London on March 17, 1969. At the age of16, he was offered an apprenticeship at the Saville Raw Tailors Anderson and Sheppard and then at neighbouring Gieves and Hawkes. He moved to the theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans where he mastered six methods of pattern cutting, melodramatic 16th century to the razor sharp tailoring which has become the McQueen signature. he graduated from Central Sait Martins in 1992 with a masters in fashion design. His MA collection was bought entirely by Isabella Blow. Since then Alexander McQueen became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. McQueen died in February 11, 2010 after his mothers death nine days earlier. Sarah Burton, who is the current creative director of Alexander McQueen, joined the company full-time as McQueens persol assistant in 1997. She was appointed Head of Womenswear in 2000, during which she created dresses for Michelle Obama, Cate Blanchette, Lady Gaga, and Gwyenth Paltrow. After the death of McQueen, Burton was named as the new creative director of Alexander McQueen in May 2010. The Spring 2017 collection was inspired by the nature of the Shetland Isles of Scotland. They researched the living traditions out by the crofters, a tiny community that had knitted woll lace shawlsfor hundreds of years.
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“Fashion should be a form of escapism, and not a form of imprisonment.�Alexander Mcqueen
Key Items
Hand-painted garments, feathers, embroidery, embossed leather
Colors:
Black, Red, Nude, Pastels, White, Blue
Trims and Materials: Silk, Chiffon, Leather, Lace
Print and Patterns: Skulls, Feathers. Birds
Accessories and Footwear:
Sculptural hats and shoes, leather handbags
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Iris Van Herpen Iris Van Herpen is a Dutch fashion born on June 5, 1984. Hepren had astrong appreciation for fashion and art at a young age. Her first choice was dance until she attended the Preoartory course for Art and Design at ArtEZ during her high school years that she became particulary intrested in designing clothing. She graduated from ArtEZ in 2006 from the Fashion Design department. During her college career she interened for Alexander McQueen in London and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam. In 2007 she started her own label. She creates a modern veiw on Haute Couture that combines fine handwork techniques with digital technology. Van Herpen forces fashion to the extreme contradiction between beauty and regeneration. It is her unique way to reevaluate reality and so to express and underline individuality. In her work she tries to make clear that fashion is an artistic expression, showing and wearing art, and not just a fucntional and devoid of content or commercial tool. She wants to show that fashion can certainly have an added value to the world, that it can be timeless and that its consumption can be less important then its beginning. Her early adoption of 3D printing technologies placed her in the vanguard of technology’s introduction into fashion. In order to create her structural pieces she has too collaborate with other artists and scientists. For Van Herpens collection, she explored the the study of cymatics, which visualizes sound waves as evolving geometric patterns. The collection reflects circular shapes and geometric patterns that are common in Cymatics.
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“For me fashion is an expression of art that is very closely related both to me and my body. I see it as an expression of identity combined with desire, moods, and a cultural setting.� - Iris Van Herpen
Key Items:
3-D printing, laser cutting, Fabric shaped into curved forms,
Colors:
Black, White, Nudes
Trims and Materials:
Thermoplastic, metal, silicone, nylon silk
Prints and Patterns: 3-D printined forms, Stripes
Accessories and Footwear: 3-D printed shoes
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Seijaku
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Seijaku
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Jeremey Scott Jeremy Scott is an American fashion designer born in Kansas, Missouri. Scott studied at Brooklyn’s Pratt Institute and began his career in the 1990s showcasing his work in the Paris Fashion Week. He is famous for creating comical and outrageous designs like one-legged pants. In order to establish his image and name, Scott did several shows in France before returning to the United States. Vogue called his spring collection in the runway show of 2000, a humorous reply to all the critics who accused him of producing bizarre clothes that no one would like to wear. His unusual collection has been worn by celebrities like Kanye West, Lady Gaga, Hayley Williams, and Gwen Stefani. In 2008, Scott collaborated with Adidas to launch an apparel and footwear collection that became popluar among hip hop personalities. One hundred pairs were made of the design and distributed equally among Adidias and Jeremy Scott. In 2012, it was decided by Adidas to stop the distribution and selling of JS Roundhouse Mids by Scott when the sneakers were criticized for resembling shackles and citing slavery. In October 2013, Scott became the Moschino’s Creative Director showing his first Moschino collection in fall 2014. This collection was inspired by the early 80s days of East Village squats, barmy club nights, and pervy peep shows. The collection had elements of bondage like latex and collars and half unzipped garments with peep holes.
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“If you want me to shine, you need to give me the parole to do that.� Jeremy Scott
Key Items:
Knit Sweaters, Oversized shirts,
Colors:
Neons, White, Black, Metallics
Trims and Materials: Cotton, Leather, Denim
Prints and Patterns:
Pop culture images, graphic prints
Accessories and Footwear: Adidas sneakers/heels, leather purses
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Betsey Johnson Born of August 10, 1942 in Conneticut, Betsey Johnson spent her childhood in dance classes. Her aspirations to be a dancer and her love for costumes laid the foundation for Betsey’s creativity and inspiration, which is still evident in her designs today. She decided to pursue her interests in art and design at the Pratt Instiitute in Brooklyn. But after one year at Pratt she transferred to Syracuse University where she proved to e a stellar student. In 1964, Betsey entered the New York fashion scene by winning Mademoiselle magazine’s “Guest Editor Contest.” One year later she landed the top designer position for Paraphernalia, a clothing boutique that at the time housed the hottest young London designers. It was here that she developed her whimsical, hippie-inspired style, characterized by the use of unique fabrics such as shower curtains, interior lining of automobiles and the pinstriped wool of old New York Yankees uniforms. In 1978, revived by the punk movement, Johnson partnered with ex-model Chantal Bacon to start their own company, the Betsey Johnson label. Since its birth, the Betsey Johnson label has grown steadily in size and reputation. The company currently has 65 stores worldwide including locations in London, Toronto and Tokyo. The theme of this collection for Spring 2016 was dance as well as Johnsons five decades of experience in the industry. The collection started with the 90s all the way to the 50s.
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“ Always have fun with fashion. Dress to entertain yourself.” -Betsey Johnson
Key Items:
Tutu skirts, Embellishments, Tights
Colors:
Neons, Black, White
Trims and Materials: Tulle, Lace, Leather, Vinyl
Prints and Patterns:
Hearts, Skulls, Grafiti, Floral, Animal
Accessories and Footwear: Bows, Boots, Heels, Chunky jewlery
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Christian Siriano Born on November 18, 1985 and raised in Maryland, Christian Siriano studied Fashion Design at the Baltimore School for Arts and had a strong passion for fashion at the very beginning. Siriano started designing clothes as soon as he turned thirteen and has never looked back. He went to study in London at the American InterContinental University after being rejected from the Fashion Institute of Technology. He started his apprenticeship at Vivienne Westwood after being recommended by a teacher and later joined Alexander McQueen for his second apprenticeship. He relocated to New York after his graduation. Sirianos luck shined on him when he auditioned for Project Runway and got selected as a contestant and won four challenges, the most number of challenges ever to have been won on the show. He won the finale of the fourth season on March 5th, 2008 and recieved $100,000 to start his own label and an exclusive spread in Elle Magazine. His debuted his label at September 2008s New York Fashion Week. Siriano was inducted into the Council Of Fashion Designers of America in June 2013. He has created garments for Sarah Jessica Parker, Emily Blunt, Christina Ricci, Heidi Klum, and Leslie Jones. Sirianos Resort 2017 collection has a mid-century feel with a handful of nipped waists and full skirts that had more than hint of retro in them, particulary when rendered in blushing, interiors-esque florals.
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“You can wear whatever, be whatever, do whatever you want.�- Christian Siriano
Key Items:
Garments for any size, Luxury womenswear, Ballgown dresses
Colors:
Nudes, Black, White, Pastels, Blue
Trims and Materials: Lace, Satin, Lace, Organza
Prints and Patterns: Flowers, Fabric dyeing, Stripes
Accessories and Footwear: Heels, Floppy Hats, Sunglasses
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Resort 2017
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Resort 2017
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Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs is an American fashion designer born on April 9th, 1963 in New York. At the age of 15 he worked at an avant-garde apparel boutique, Charivari, as a stock-boy. In 1981, Jacobs graduated from High School of Art and Design and moved on to study at Parsons School of Design. While studying at Parsons, Jacobs created and sold his very first collection of hand-knitted sweaters . In 1986, with financial support of Onward Kashiyama USA, Inc., Jacobs produced his first collected works under the label, Marc Jacobs. A year later, he became the youngest fashion designer to have been awarded the highest tribute within the fashion industry, the Perry Ellis award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. In 1992 , the Council of Fashion Designers of America gave Jacob’s the Women’s Designer of the Year Award. In 1997, he became the Creative Director of Louis Vuitton. During which he made a ready-to-wear collection of clothes and for this he had to collaborate with several pop artists such as Kanye West and Richard Prince.Ine 2009 he launched a shirt design in his stores demanding the authorities to legalize marriges between gays and in the same year co-hosted the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art with Kate Moss. In 2013 he left Louis Vuitton and continued his own brand Marc by Marc Jacobs. Jacobs brought an 80s vibe to his Resort 2017 collection with pop culture. Lace dresses came with patch work of toucans and tropical flowers and zebra stripes mixed with leopard spots.
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“Lets do what we love and so a lot of it.�- Marc Jacobs
Key Items: Strong eye makeup, Unique Hairstyles
Colors:
Nudes, Black, White, Red, Neons
Trims and Materials: Denim, Lace, Knits, Organza
Prints and Patterns: Checker, Animal, Stripes, Plaid
Accessories and Footwear: Patches, Boots, Platform sneakers, Hand Bags
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Resort 2017
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Resort 2017
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Marchesa
Born on April 14, 1976 in London, Georgina Chapman is an English actress and fashion designer. At the Chelsea College of Art and Design, Chapman met Keren Craig, her future professional partner. In 2001, Chapman got her graduation degree from Wimbleton School of Art and expedited on her costume design career. In 2004, Chapman and Keren Craig launched the brand Marchesa inspired by thename of a socialite named Marchesa Luisa Casati. Two years later, the label won a place in the top 10 finalist list of CFDA and Voque Fashion Fund. Keren Craig, the co-founder of Marchesa along with Georgina Chapman, was born on February 27, 1976 in Switzerland. Craig graduated from Brighton Art College in 2000 with a bachelors in Fashion Textiles with Buisness and afterwords concentrated on print and embrodiery design. As the Director of Textile Design in Marchesa, Craig lends her vast knowledge of textiles, embroidery, and beadwork to complement Chapman’s design and drapery resulting in the couture level handcraftsmanship and and attention to detail the brand is known for. Celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Anne Hathaway, Eva Longoria, and Naomi Watts wear Marchesa. Marchesa’s Resort 2017 collection was inspired by casino nightlife by way of 1995s Martin Scorsese film Casino. The collection includes plunging V-necks gowns, bejeweled floor length sheaths, pearl-embellished fringed frocks, handcrafted 3-D floral embroideries, and full skirts both ball and tiered.
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“Bridesmaids are never going to upstage the bride.� - Georgina Chapman
Key Items:
Embroidery, Beading, V-neck plunge, Offthe-shoulder dresses
Colors:
White, Black, Pastels, Nudes, Red
Trims Materials:
Lace, Organza, Satin, Silk, Tulle
Prints and Patterns: Roses
Accessories and Footwear: Chunky jewelry, Heals
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Resort 2017
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Resort 2017
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Louis Vuitton Born on August 4, 1821, Louis Vuitton belonged to a laboring-class family and his ancestors were milliners, farmers, carpenters, and joiners like him. Vuitton ranaway to Paris in 1835 at the age of fourteen. He did several unusual jobs to gather enough money for food and rested wherever he found shelter. He worked as a trainee in Monsieur Marechals workshop of box making and packing. Vuitton became one of the best practitioners of of this new skill among the fashion lovers of Paris. When he left Marchals, he opened his own shop of the same buisness of box manufacturing and introduced a revolutionary shaped trunks to the market and it became a hit. Vuitton kept on working on until his death in 1892. Nicolas Ghesquiere was born in Comines, Province in 1971. At the age of 15 he interned at Agnes B in Paris during his summer holidays. After leaving school, Nicolas scored an internship with Jean Paul Gaultier and then joined Balenciaga in 1995 as a licensed product designer. In 1997 he was appointed as the labels new creative director. His collections were in such high demand that the labels flagship store in Paris was unable to meet the demands of the crowds that gathered there daily. On November 5, 2012 Nicolas left Balenciaga after being there for 15 years. On November 4, 2013, Nicolas was announced the new artistic director of Louis Vuitton. The Spring 2017 collection was focused on the tailoring. The suits aren’t for the office with slices removed from the shoulders and capeleted open backs, they negotiated the territory between practicality and experimentation.
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“Is that weird, taking my Louis Vuitton bag camping?”- Jessica Simpson
Key Items: Embroidery, Crew necklines
Colors:
Pastels, Browns, White, Reds
Trims and Materials: Leather, Silks
Prints and Patterns: Signature print
Accessories and Footwear: Purses, Boots, Heels Scarves
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Givenchy
Hubert de Givenchy was born on February 21, 1927 in northern France. In 1944, Givenchy moved to Paris where he studied art at the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts. At the age of 17, Givenchy began an apprenticeship with designer Jacques Fath and then moved on to work for famous French couture houses. In 1952, Givenchy opened his own design house and his debut collection was a hit. The collection consisted of long skirts and tailored tops that included the “Bettina blouse,” named after model Bettina Graziani. He was closely affiliated with Audrey Hepburn in terms of her cinematic style. He designed her attire for Funny Face in 1957 and breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961. Givenchy sold his buisness to Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey in 1988, retired after seven years, and presented his last collection in 1995. Riccardo Tisci was born in 1974 in southern Italy. He has eight sisters which has influenced his design aesthetic. At the age of 17, he left Italy to study fashion at Central Saint Martins in London. After graduating in 1999, he returned to his native country where worked for numerous brands like Puma. In February 2005, he was made creative director of Givenchy. Tisci caused a media stir in 2010 when he cast the first transgender model on the catwalk. He also created Madonnas Super Bowl oufits in February 2012. Spring 2017 for Givenchy is a neo-baroque flair with a cropped, belled jacket and short skirt. Riccardo is finding new interest in the old Givenchy codes. Thanks to the studded leather triangle bras or wedge boots laced skyward the overall attitude unded up tough, seductive, and tailormade.
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“Luzury is in each detail.”- Hubert de Givenchy
Key Items: Pearls, Floral embroidery
Colors:
White, Black, Blue, Red, Nudes
Trims and Materials: Leather, Lace, Organza
Prints and Patterns: Florals
Accessories and Footwear: Heels, Handbags, Platforms
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Resort 2017
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Resort 2017
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Elie Saab Elie Saab is a self taught fashion designer born in 1964 in Lebanon. He started dressmaking at the age of 9 by making clothes for his sisters and started selling his creations to the women in his neighborhood. In 1982, at the age of 18, he opened his couture studio in Beirut managing over a dozen employees. In the following months he presented his first collection to a public of women and was instantly won over by his collection. His reputation rapidly transcended Beiruts borders attracting women from high society who desired an Elie Saab dress. Invited by the Chambre Syndicale de La Haute Couture to show in Paris in 2000. He presented four collections a year and six years later became corresponding member. In 2005, a five story building was made in Beriut with Saabs studio, the ready-to-wear boutique and couture showroom. Saab shows feminity with fine materials, delicate embroideries with outstanding quality. His specialty is the ultimate dress that highlights a womans silhouette. Saabs Spring 2017 collection was dedicated to the 70s in which Saab grew up during. Models appeared in multicolored fit-and-flare minidresses, which were worn under swoosh cloak jackets, as lace inserts on multi-ruffled black silk minidresses.
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“Elegance is a statement, an attitude. Elegant women are women of character with confidence.�- Elie Saab
Key Items:
Embroidery, Embellishments, V-neck plunge,
Colors:
Black, White, Nudes, Blue
Trims and Materials: Lace, Velvet, Tulle, Silk
Prints and Patterns: Floral, Fabric Dyeing, Stars
Footwear and Accessories: Handbags, Heels
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Spring 2017
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