*** CREDIT ***
time to relax, have a drink and write the day’s log before going ashore to explore a little and find a spot for dinner. Before turning in for the night, we'd often do a bit more exploring or shopping. Overnight Options — Depending on where you end up, the options for your overnighting are varied. In smaller ports, like Sobra, on Mljet, the only real option is to anchor and row ashore. Anchoring was free, of course, and we'd usually only have to row about 50 yards or less. In more populated spots, like Hvar or Milna, you have several options: anchor out, moor to the town quay, or pay bigger bucks for a spot in a marina. In Orebic, on Peljesac, we paid to moor at the town quay for the night, with electricity and water available. In Okuklje, also on Mljet, we moored to a pier for free in exchange for agreeing to have dinner at a particular 'restaurant' — more on this exciting experience later. In larger ports, there’s usually a large marina, or the option of anchoring out among lots of other boats. All the marinas we stayed in had nice accommodations and were clean. But occasionally we had to wait for a shower stall, toilet,
DAN & ALISON LEININGER
Shopping for fresh provisions in open markets, like this one in Split, was a pleasant connection to an old-style European custom.
or sink. There was always the option of anchoring in small, secluded, uninhabited coves which were numerous along all of the islands' shorelines. Food & Drink — Think Italian. As mentioned before, we usually had a light 'Continental' breakfast, taking advantage of the ever-present small bakeries which offered an assortment of tasty pastries as well as a nice selection of fresh bread
for our lunch onboard later. Morning coffee was often a hit or miss experience. "Latte" (Alison’s usual) meant something different in almost every port. Never mind that she’s used to getting it extra hot, lowfat with light foam. A large regular coffee, (for me) was just as elusive. I usually ended up with expresso, which I watered down. Alison never found an ideal white wine, but I enjoyed the heck out of the local beers — Karlovacko and Lostivo were my favorites. All popular European beer brands were also readily available. We treated ourselves to great bread, wonderful cheeses and an assortment of veggies for our lunches onboard. We ate out every night during our stay. Menus were predominantly Italian, with lots of pasta, seafood and pizza. Our most memorable dinner was the one mentioned earlier where we agreed to eat at the 'restaurant' that 'owned' the particular spot we were moored to. As it turned out, the lady who'd helped us moor was the owner of the restaurant, and our waitress for the evening meal. The restaurant was actually her house, which had several tables to accommo-
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• BC Canada: Summer 2007 • San Francisco to Cabo San Lucas: Oct 13.-Nov. 8 ~ $2,640/person • San Francisco to Ensenada: Oct. 13-21 ~ $1,760/person • Ensenada to Cabo San Lucas: Oct. 22-Nov. 8 ~ $2,200/person • Mexico/Sea of Cortez: November 2007 - March 2008 • Mexico to Hawaii: April 2008 • Hawaii to Victoria, BC: May 2008 • BC Canada: June - September 2008
Sailing Yacht 'Western Grace'
www.WesternGrace.ca 808.271.3540 Page 184 •
• July, 2007
The July 2007 issue of the West's premier sailing and marine magazine.