Wine Time

PerfectionPub

Pair the cheeseburger at Alton’s Kitchen & Cocktails with a full-bodied Zinfandel.

Quality ingredients turn a humble hamburger into a sumptuous feast

by Trevor Burton photography by Trevor Burton

Hamburgers, good hamburgers, are among my favorite dishes and have been for a long time. First, a little background. I grew up in an industrial town in the midlands of England. We didn’t know what we didn’t have and luxury was a fish-and-chip shop on the corner of our street. Then one day a couple of burger joints opened up in the center of town. Luxury had moved up a notch. The beef may have been of shady provenance and who knew the whys and whens of the buns. Anyway, it was new and it was exotic.

Move on a few years and I, as a young lad, moved to New York City to work on an exciting computer project. Just around the corner from my office was a traditional, nineteenth century saloon that had a selection of English ales—at that stage in my life, availability of these beverages was crucial. This is where I fell in love. The place was, and still is, famous for its hamburgers. The ground beef is some of the best available and there are numerous toppings to go with it. It was love at first bite; an “Aha!” moment. The “exotic” burgers from back home were confined to the dusty corners of my memory. I had reached a new gastronomic plateau.

Move on even more years. My wife, Mary Ellen, and I were out running errands when the mood hit me. I was nostalgic for a cozy, pub-like atmosphere—I grew up, from a very young age, in my grandfather’s pub, the Shakespeare’s Head. Part of the mood was a craving for a decent hamburger. So, to Alton’s Kitchen & Cocktails we headed. Cuisine.” To me that means great food in an elegant, upscale pub. Just what I needed. I didn’t need a menu. The only decision I had to make was how I wanted Alton’s cheeseburger cooked, medium/well, and what toppings to add—a side of French fries was mandatory. I was in full American comfort food mode. My only deviation was that I had to have malt vinegar on my fries, a preference that goes back to the fish-and-chip shop back across the pond.

I had one more decision to make; what wine to have to go along with my classic cheeseburger—over a lifetime, my tastes have evolved from English ales to good wines. I wanted something with some body to it be able to handle the depth of a cheeseburger. And I felt like exploring. I settled on a Zinfandel from Mendocino, California. I’m very fond of Zinfandels from the Dry Creek Valley region of Sonoma. Mendocino is just over the mountains from Dry Creek Valley, closer to the chilly Pacific Ocean. I was anxious to give it a try.

A home run. My cheeseburger was right up my alley and exactly what I was in the mood for. My exploratory wine was a delightful surprise. It had all the elements of a Zinfandel—deep, dark fruits and lots of body. An added aspect was a hint of spiciness which was just right for my rich cheeseburger.

My mood was well and truly met. A cozy, pub atmosphere, a classic American dish and new and excellent wine experience. Those exotic burgers in the dusty corners of my memory are fading further and further away.