Thanksgiving Traditions with Jenny Brulé and Lara Tumer

Share Their Love of Thanksgiving and Some Favorite Recipes TWO AREA FOODIES A Turkey Trot and All the Trimmings

CURRENTS Staff Writer Shares Her Family’s Turkey Day

by Lara Tumer photography courtesy of Lara Tumer

CURRENTS writer Lara Tumer (number 645) with her siblings and father.

Growing up, Thanksgiving was always the most celebrated holiday in my family. My mother used to joke that we could marry whoever we pleased, as long as they agreed that each year Thanksgiving would be celebrated at her house—no exceptions. She always reasoned that it was her favorite holiday because it was simply about family sharing time over a special meal … no gifts, no glam, just a little bit of gluttony.

We have several traditions that have become a part of our celebrations. Coming from a family that prioritizes fitness and health, a Turkey Trot, or Thanksgiving day run has become standard protocol in our home, allowing us to enjoy the fresh fall air together (and also a few extra bites of turkey and pie later in the day, guilt-free).

The Macy’s Day parade is always on in the morning as we swarm the kitchen, fighting for counter and oven space. Most of this time is spent remembering the few ingredients that have been forgotten at the store (without fail). The parade is soon replaced with the day’s first football game, seats are claimed on the couch, and the endless eating commences.

The menu has remained largely unchanged through the years—sticking with the basics like turkey, stuffing, potatoes (always sweet and white), a vegetable for good measure, cranberry sauce, biscuits, and gravy to top it all off. With kids now in the mix, we’ve added creamy pumpkin mac and cheese to the menu (see recipe sidebar), something that even the pickiest tiny tots and adults are all happy to eat. There are always at least several type of pies for dessert, and while we are all too full to move, we find the room for a slice or two.

With four siblings living in three states, this special November holiday is the one day all year we know we will be together. Traditions have given us something unwavering to count on, despite busy schedules and miles between us.

Pumpkin Macaroni & Cheese

Makes six smaller servings; double the recipe if feeding a larger group

Ingredients:

• 1 lb. macaroni of choice (this pumpkin shaped pasta can be found seasonally at Trader Joe’s) • 2 cups of milk • 2 cups of shredded cheddar cheese • 3 tablespoons butter • 3 tablespoons of flour • 1 cup pumpkin puree • 1 teaspoon salt • ½ teaspoon pepper • a pinch of nutmeg

Directions:

1. Bring your pasta to a boil and cook according to package directions. 2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. 3. Add flour to create a roux, whisking until incorporated. 4. Slowly pour in milk, continuously mixing until it begins to thicken. 5. Whisk in pumpkin puree and lower heat. 6. Add in shredded cheese, mixing until melted and combined. 7. Season, with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 8. Add in cooked pasta, mix and serve immediately.

From left to right: Tess, Claire, Jenny, Camille and Mimi Brulé.

A Feast Fit for Traditions Davidson Ice House Owner Jenny Brulé talks food and family

by Holly Becker photography by Monica Galloway Photography

It comes as no shocker that Jenny Brulé is a big fan of Thanksgiving. After all, the Davidson Ice House owner and chef is known for her skills in the kitchen. Thanksgiving also is in her genes. Brulé’s family lineage dates back to the Mayflower, when William and Susanna White, pregnant with their second child, made the voyage to America. White gave birth to a son, Peregrine, the first Mayflower descendent born in America, while the ship was still docked off Cape Cod.

Holiday staples, traditions For many years, her family Thanksgiving gathering rotated houses. When her parents moved locally, the family began a new tradition—gathering at Davidson Ice House. The Thanksgiving staples remain the same. Brulé’s faithful contributions to the Thanksgiving meal are oyster stuffing and green bean casserole. However, the chef in the family isn’t the sole cook of the feast.

“My father makes the best mashed potatoes because he’s not afraid of butter. My mom does gravy and pie. My daughters and nieces always have a competition to make pies,” she says. Brulé believes the recipes made year after year at Thanksgiving are about more than food.

“The sense of smell and taste provoke memories. It’s why so many people associate memories with certain people,” she says.

Meal prep also means saving room for dinner by consuming only raw vegetables during the day. This is a family tradition Brulé continued from her own childhood. At 5 p.m., her family and a few friends gather around the table to for the holiday feast. Reflecting on their blessings is a central part of the meal for family and guests. paper in a hat, and we take turns pulling one out of the hat and try to guess who wrote it,” says Brulé.

Turkey day tips Brulé has some sage advice for the novice cook or one inexperienced in cooking for a crowd. To ease stress, she recommends planning what can be made ahead of time. Many casseroles, stuffing and relishes can be made in advanced and stored in the refrigerator. Prepping vegetables the night before is also a timesaver. She insists not all of the trimmings on the table have to be made from scratch.

“If you are nervous, pick one thing you like to make and let that be the aspect you focus on, whether it’s the turkey, pies, vegetables and use prepared stuff to fill in the holes,” she says. If preparing a whole turkey is too daunting of a task, order one or try roasting a turkey breast instead. Brulé roasts a turkey and also buys a Hickory-smoked turkey.

Even the most seasoned Thanksgiving cook can make some mishaps. One Thanksgiving while living in Switzerland, Brulé’s family celebrated turkey day with friends from the United States, England and Ireland. She packed her minivan with her four daughters and dishes and platters of food. Upon arrival, her then seven-year-old accidentally stomped her snow boot in the middle of the green bean casserole.

“The plastic wrap squished into the soupy beans, holding the boot print, but miraculously, the plastic wrap remained stuck to the sides of the dish, keeping the casserole, while disfigured, completely protected,” she says.

Brulé asked the guests if she should toss the casserole and was met with a resounding “no.”

Recipe from Jennifer Brules’ cookbook The New Vegetarian South:105 Inspired Dishes for Everyone

Three Cheese Broccoli Bake

Makes 6-8 servings

Ingredients:

• 8 cups broccoli florets from about 2-3 heads broccoli • 1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt • 1 plumb garlic clove, peeled and halved • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter • 1 ½ cups half-and-half • 3 large eggs • ¼ cup all-purpose flour • ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese • ½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 3 green onions, chopped • 4 ounces Velveeta, cut into 1-inch cubes • 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese • 1 cup crushed Ritz crackers (about 24 crackers)

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Fill a large pot with very hot water and add salt. Cover, set over high heat, and bring to a boil. When the water reaches a rolling boil, add the broccoli florets, stir, cover with the lid cracked, and return to a boil. Start timing when the water boils: cook for just 2 minutes, then drain and set aside. Rub a 2-quart baking dish generously with the garlic half (this is a trick I picked up while living in Switzerland—the Swiss rub garlic on the inside of fondue pots to impart a delicate garlic flavor), then rub the dish with the butter and set aside. Make the custard: In a large bowl, whisk together the half-and-half, eggs, flour, Parmesan, salt and black pepper. Set aside.

Toss the broccoli with the green onions and layer into the baking dish. Nestle the Velveeta cubs in among the broccoli florets, then whisk the custard again and pour over the broccoli. Scatter the cheddar over the top and finish by pouring the cracker crumbs evenly from edge to edge.

Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 25 minutes, then uncover and bake for 20 minutes longer (if cracker crumbs start to get too golden, re-cover with foil). Serve hot.