Chutney
The Uncommon Condiment
I
by perri black
love condiments—they can effortlessly transform a plain meal or dish into something special. Every culture has its condiments—from tomato ketchup in the United States, chimichurri in Argentina, and a multitude of salsas in Mexico, to kimchi in Korea, Dijon mustard in France, and za’ tar in Israel. Thousands of gloriously varied condiments are globally ubiquitous and delicious. I feel compelled to sample as many as I can—my refrigerator and pantry are filled with a world of tastes and textures. Jams, jellies, spreads, relishes, butters, dressings, pickles, rubs, spice mixes, and sauces all fall into the condiment category, but one of the most interesting, ancient, and diverse is chutney, perhaps the best known product from the Indian subcontinent. Some day I hope to eat my way through India (sampling chutneys as I go), but I did have the good fortune to live many years in England where, thanks to the dubious benefits of colonization, there are many wonderful restaurants serving food from all regions of India. As a result, I have been able to try many different manifestations of chutney, including versions that evolved to become an integral part of English cuisine. The history of chutney dates back to ancient times. The word “chutney” apparently comes from the Hindi “chatni,” which means ‘to lick’ and refers to both fresh and pickled products. In India, a variety of chutneys made from seasonal ingredients are served with every meal to complement other dishes being offered. They may be a mix of fresh, raw chopped vegetables, fruits, and spices, or various ingredients ground or processed into a coarse textured puree, or
even blended to a thin, smooth sauce. They can also be pickled with vinegar and spices. Contrasting tastes and textures are often served together—a classic combination is the bright green cilantro-mint chutney, dark brown tamarind sauce, and chopped, spiced onions that appear on the table at most Indian restaurants in this country. American and European-style chutneys were adapted by British colonialists from traditional Indian recipes to appeal to foreign taste. Sugar and vinegar were added to help preserve English orchard fruit and maintain a longer shelf life for use throughout the year. Anglo-Indians continued making chutneys using apples, peaches, and pears, as well as rhubarb, berries, and dried fruits like raisins and currants. These chutneys now regularly appear on many British tables, particularly alongside cold meats and poultry in pub lunches. In addition to the plethora of ingredients grown in the United States, American chutneys may be influenced by English chutneys as well as Caribbean and South American cuisines. The following recipes were primarily chosen to highlight Maine ingredients but I included a couple that are essentially Indian; however, the ingredients should be readily available in any supermarket. Feel free to add, subtract, and adjust ingredients in all these recipes according to personal taste and what is on hand. For those who feel adventurous and want to try making chutney with more exotic components (and there are many recipes available), the best Indian supermarket in this area is Masala Mahal, 798 Main Street (Rte. 1) in South Portland, www.masalamahal.weebly.com. R
wild blueberry chutney (www.wildblueberries.com)
Perfect with pork roast, duck, venison, and broiled chicken or beef, as well as an accompaniment to a Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, or a topping for a turkey or chicken sandwich. Also use to top a small wheel of brie and serve with crackers or bread.
laurie’s rhubarb chutney (Adapted from Epicurious.com)
This extremely versatile chutney can easily be adapted to taste, substituting scallions for onions, brown sugar for granulated, red wine vinegar for cider vinegar, and ground cardamom instead of cumin. Dried tart cherries may also be used instead of raisins. 3/4 c sugar 1/3 c cider vinegar 1 Tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced 1 Tbsp ground garlic 1 Tbsp cumin 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp ground cloves 1/4 tsp dried crushed red pepper
24 lakelivingmaine .com
4 c chopped, fresh rhubarb (about 1½ lb) 1/2 c (generous) chopped red onion 1/3 c golden raisins (about 2 oz)
Combine first eight ingredients in a large stainless steel or enameled cast iron saucepan. Bring to simmer over low heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Add rhubarb, onion, and raisins; increase heat to medium-high and cook until rhubarb is tender and mixture thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Transfer to hot, sterilized jars and process in boiling water bath for 10 minutes or refrigerate for up to three weeks. Bring to room temperature before using. Yield: 4 8-oz jars
1/2 c raspberry vinegar 1/2 c sugar 1 medium onion, minced 1/4 tsp fresh minced ginger 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp minced lemon rind pinch of cayenne pepper pinch of salt 3 c wild (or cultivated) blueberries 1/4 c dried cranberries
Combine vinegar, sugar, onion, ginger, cinnamon, lemon rind, pepper, and salt in a sauce pan; bring to a boil and simmer 15 minutes. Add 1 cup of blueberries and the cranberries. Simmer 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Add remaining 2 cups of blueberries and simmer another 10 minutes. Yield: about 1 cup