June 3, 2016

Page 91

Truffles Butchery’s Steve Caravelli shares his chef-tested grilling guidelines for mastering the basics and branching out into new tips, tricks and techniques this season. Whether because of sizzling steaks and burgers or charred chicken wings and corn on the cob, the aromas of backyard grilling spike this time of year, signaling the first days of unofficial/post-Memorial Day summer. Steve Caravelli – executive chef at Truffles Butchery in Ladue, attached to fine-dining restaurant Truffles – recently spoke with Ladue News to share advice on proper grilling techniques and how to become a grilling guru. Caravelli has more than 10 years of professional kitchen experience, working in restaurants across the metro area, and has been leading the team at Butchery for a year.

Choosing Proteins

It’s important to know what works best on the grill – meats like steaks, pork chops and sausages along with heartier seafood like salmon, swordfish and shrimp. “Marbleization and fat content is the thing to look for,” Caravelli says. Marble-heavy prime or dry-aged rib-eye or strip steak would be delectable choices, and Caravelli also recommends flank and hanger steaks as delicious and affordable options. It’s best to develop a relationship with a butcher you trust to sell you the best-quality products in a range of cuts and styles.

Preparing the Grill

Make sure the grates are hot, cleaned and greased with a vegetable-based oil that has a neutral flavor and high smoke point – vegetable, grapeseed or canola oil work great. Oils with low smoke points, like olive oil, will develop acrid, bitter flavors. “One of the most important parts is to have a preheated grill,” Caravelli says. “The worst thing you can do is put a piece of meat on a not-hot-enough grill.” The old-school method to test your grill’s temperature is to hold your hand about 5 inches above the grates. When the grill is properly heated, you should be able to hold it there comfortably for only 1 or 2 seconds.

Preparing Proteins for the Grill

“The first thing is identifying that you’ve gotten rid of any nasty bits that you don’t want on your meat,” Caravelli says, listing examples like silver skin, gristle and excessive fat. Most meats should be removed from the refrigerator and brought to room temperature before preparation. Salting and seasoning early will create a natural antimicrobial barrier, allowing meats to safely reach room temperature without risking foodborne illness. Thinner cuts of meat benefit from staying in the fridge so that they don’t overcook when exposed to high temperatures. However, not all meats are created equal. “Fish does not benefit from seasoning beforehand,” Caravelli says. “You want to season it right before it goes on the grill; [otherwise] moisture leaches out, and it ends up steaming.” This makes the fish stick to your grill grates, making it much harder to cleanly release.

Caravelli says that prime and dry-aged steaks taste best when liberally seasoned with kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper to accentuate the natural flavors, while flank and skirt steaks, chicken breast and pork tenderloin can benefit from a marinade or brine to infuse additional flavor and moisture.

Grilling

Start most meats over direct heat to sear. Fish will initially stick but naturally release from the grill when it’s ready to flip. According to Caravelli: “If you try to get the spatula under it and it gets stuck, don’t touch it. Step away from it, and give it a little longer.” Once steaks are seared, it’s important to start checking for doneness. There is no shame in using thermometers, but most chefs go by feel, using different parts of their palms for comparison. For thermometer users, keep a temperature guide close by, as some meats aren’t safe until they reach a certain temperature. Chicken must reach an internal temperature of 165°F, while steaks range from 125°F for rare up to 165°F for well-done. Most steaks ¾-inch to 1½-inches thick can usually withstand cooking on direct heat the entire time for medium-rare to medium doneness. However, a piece of meat like chicken, fish or pork that develops an ideal sear but needs additional cook time should be moved to the cool zone – the section of your grill over indirect heat.

After Grilling

Once the desired temperatures have been reached, the last step is allowing your meat to rest before cutting. “Every cut of meat benefits from 10 to 15 minutes of resting,” Caravelli says. “Resting ensures more of your juices [remain] inside.” After undergoing extreme physical stress, the muscle fibers need the opportunity to rest to allow the juices to redistribute throughout the meat. If cut immediately, the plate will be overrun with flavorful juices while the meat will be much drier and tougher.


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