THE FOOD & DRINK ISSUE
IN TRANSIT PIN IT Why you need to stock Italy’s newest Prosecco up on luxury tequila is the perfect aperitivo
FEATURES A taste of Scotland’s first homegrown tea
COVET Healthy airplane snacks — they exist!
COVER: VIKTOR HANACEK; LEFT TO RIGHT: COURTESY ROMINA CIFERNI; VALERIE HOWES; PAY CHEN; CONNIE TSANG
CONTENTS VOLUME 1 ISSUE 1 COVET
PIN it
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THE TOAST OF VENETO Italy’s newest bubbly is something worth celebrating
in
TRANSIT PLAY
7
22
A SHOT OF SOPHISTICATION
SWEET VALLEY HIGH
We make a case for the spirit of the season: tequila
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GET YOUR PASSPORT READY Five reasons to travel this season
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NEWS
Tech tips and thoughts on the future of travel
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PHOTO ESSAY
Osoyoos, B.C., is home to Canada’s only desert and it’s an incubator to great wine and even better food
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DON’T FORGO FOGO
Writer Valerie Howes fell so in love with the exotic flavours of this remote Canadian community that she’s writing a book about them
Connie Tsang chronicles the evolution of the Chinese restaurant
42 SHOP
Worldly souvenirs from the Far and Wide Collective that will make you look well-travelled, without checking in
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WANTED
Saviour Snacks: Our favourite eats while we’re en route
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THE FOOD UP THERE
Airlines are taking in-flight meals to new levels. We get the scoop on which ones score highest on taste and nutrition
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WORK FOR YOUR DINNER Indulgent culinary classes from Tennessee to Thailand
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PERFECT DAY
Italian blogger Romina Ciferni takes us on an architectural walking tour of Milan
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ART YOU CAN ALMOST EAT
Toronto server Jacqueline Poirier turned her plates into her canvases. Plus, our picks from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list
26
IN EVERY ISSUE
4 Contributors/Masthead 5 Editor’s letter
GREAT SCOT
If you think Scotland is all about Scotch, you are mistaken. One of the world’s best cups of tea comes from an hour north of Edinburgh
32
FOLLOW THE MONEY
Financial districts, once after-work wastelands, are now becoming homes to competitive food scenes
THE FOOD & DRINK ISSUE
IN TRANSIT PIN IT Why you need to stock Italy’s newest Prosecco up on luxury tequila is the perfect aperitivo
FEATURES A taste of Scotland’s first homegrown tea
COVET Healthy airplane snacks — they exist!
Aperitivo time in Treviso, Italy.
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MOTEL MOMENT
The retro roadside respite has become affordable boutique accommodation LA CARTE
3
MASTHEAD
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Maryam Siddiqi DEPUTY EDITOR
Alex Laws
SENIOR EDITOR
Federica Maraboli
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Karen Cleveland COPY EDITOR
Aviva Guidis
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS
Pay Chen, Kim Curley, Barry Hertz, Lauren Marinigh, Heather Marrin, Michele Sponagle CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Geneviève Biloski GENERAL INQUIRIES
hello@ lacartemag.com
PAY CHEN Writer, Great Scot, Page 26 Born in Taiwan and raised in Nova Scotia, Pay hosts The Pay Chen Show on Toronto’s Newstalk 1010 and contributes to various television shows and publications. FAVOURITE MEAL ON THE ROAD “Experiencing Taiwanese night-market food as an adult was unforgettable. Grilled squid, shaved ice with tapioca, sweetened red beans and toppings you think can’t possibly taste good together, actually do. It’s important to shake up your tastebuds once in a while.”
MICHELE SPONAGLE Writer, Sweet Valley High, Page 22 A prolific travel journalist who has chalked up visits to more than 70 countries, Michele contributes regularly to many top publications including The Globe and Mail, Canadian Living, Huffington Post, West Jet inflight magazine and FoodNetwork.ca. FAVOURITE MEAL ON THE ROAD “I really love seafood, so I am in my happy place in the Maritimes for lobster and oysters, as well as Peru where the ceviche is truly amazing.”
EDITORIAL INQUIRIES
editorial@ lacartemag.com ADVERTISING AND CUSTOM CONTENT OPPORTUNITIES
advertising@ lacartemag.com SALES PARTNERSHIPS AND OPPORTUNITIES
sales@ lacartemag.com FOLLOW US!
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instagram.com/ lacartemag
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GENEVIÈVE BILOSKI Creative Director Besides making La Carte look beautiful, Geneviève is the art director at the Financial Post Magazine, design editor at the National Post and creative director at iRun Magazine.
LAUREN MARINIGH Writer, Motel Moment, Page 19 A Toronto-based marketing professional, Lauren founded the blog Twirl The Globe to show people that seeing the world is possible — even with limited vacation days.
FAVOURITE MEAL ON THE ROAD “The Taco salad at Blue Water Café in Grand Marais, Minn. In this very ordinary restaurant is the best taco salad I’ve ever had. This place is a gem. Then I burn off the calories with a walk by the beautiful Lake Superior waterfront.”
FAVOURITE MEAL ON THE ROAD “I had a delicious homemade seafood pasta dish at Il Casello in Monterosso al Mare, Italy, while travelling through the Cinque Terre. The tiny restaurant overlooks the ocean, and I’ve never been able to find something that can top that meal!”
MARYAM SIDDIQI
EDITOR’S LETTER
Dishing on our first issue A year ago, when the team at La Carte first started talking about what this magazine would be, we knew we wanted it to be a home for seasoned travellers — people who weren’t looking for itineraries but inspiration. That quality has been the driving force behind not only our website, but our debut quarterly issue, which you’re reading right now. Shining a spotlight on food and drink was a natural choice for our first issue. From discovering a country’s culture and traditions through a meal to replicating those dishes from the comfort of home — arguably the best souvenir is the knowledge of how to cook a local dish — food and drink has a way of opening up the world to us. Over the past few months, an amazing team of contributors has worked with our editorial
staff to tell stories about the newest drinks and hottest restaurants around the world along with the innovative culinary characters behind them. We loved following Pay Chen’s journey in Scotland as she learned that the country now excels at a beverage other than Scotch (page 26) and talking to photographer Connie Tsang whose work in our Covet section offers an insider look at independent Chinese-Canadian restaurants in flux (page 38). And we love that, as Lauren Marinigh discovered, motels are making a comeback (page 19). You’ll find lots to clip, pin and bookmark — about destinations as diverse as Scotland and Singapore — and we expect your travel calendar will fill up as quickly as ours have. Enjoy and let us know what you think of the magazine at hello@lacartemag.com.
Top: A moment of reflection in Treviso, Italy, home of the founders of Fiol Prosecco. Above: Editor Maryam Siddiqi enjoying la dolce vita.
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TRANSIT IN SEASON
A shot of sophistication You might find it in your next Old Fashioned or even presented as a tasting flight — tequila is no longer something to be tossed back in one shot, but rather sipped and savoured. Luxury varieties made from the juice of blue agave are on the rise, a rapidly growing sector in alcohol sales helped, in no small part, by celebrity backing. Take Casamigos Tequila, a line of añejo, reposado and blanco, from George Clooney, Rande Gerber and Mike Meldman. That it’s the fastest-growing luxury tequila brand in the United States may have something to do with the charming smiles of its founders, but its shelf life can only be attributed to its quality and smooth finish. “We wanted [a tequila] that didn’t have to be covered up with salt and lime,” Gerber says. “We wanted to be able to drink it all night long and not be hungover in the morning.” Turns out, they aren’t the only ones.
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in TRANSIT REASONS to TRAVEL
GET YOUR PASSPORT READY
Five destinations to mark on your calendar this season, two of which include seeing Madonna, albeit very different versions of the lady By Barry Hertz
No. We know we’re biased when it comes to promoting Canada-centric locales, but the Toronto International Film Festival, which runs from Sept. 1 10-20, is a sight to see. Yes, there are celebs aplenty, including Sandra Bullock, Tom Hiddleston and Matt Damon, but unlike most other film festivals around the world — we’re looking at you, Cannes — TIFF is open to the public and encourages civic participation. This year’s hot tickets include Damon’s The Martian, Bullock’s Our Brand Is Crisis, and Hiddleston’s I Saw the Light, a biopic of country singer Hank Williams. See you at the movies.
No. Fancy a picnic? Be in Hong Kong on 3 Oct. 21 to celebrate the Chung Yeung Festival, which falls on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month. Although religious in na8
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ture — entire families congregate at cemeteries to engage in age-old practices of ancestor worship — the day also revolves around huge picnics at Hong Kong’s many outdoor parks, with families indulging in special “ko” cakes. Grab a blanket and partake in the festivities, a welcome distraction from the city’s hustle. No. It’s Madonna, bitch — and she’s en 4 français! The queen of pop (sorry Beyoncé) is taking over the City of Lights on Dec. 9 and 10 for what promises to be a spectacular show at the Palais Omnisport de Bercy (tickets for the first show sold out in five minutes — all 15,000 of them). It’s her first
concert in the country since 2012. As if you needed an excuse to head to France anyway. No. Be in Rome on Dec. 8 to participate in 5 the Immacolata Concezione. It’s during this ceremony that all eyes, including those of Pope Francis, will be on the Madonna statue in the Piazza di Spagna — a fire brigade runs a ladder up Mary’s column and one lucky firefighter gets to place a wreath over her outstretched arm. It’s a beautiful, flower-drenched ceremony, and one that can be appreciated by the religious and non-religious alike. If you’re going to one of the centres of modern faith, shouldn’t you stop to smell the roses?
COURTESY TORONTO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
No. Set to open by early fall is Maritima, 2 the latest venture from New York’s biggest names in dining: Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. The pair, already behind such successful Italian eateries as Del Posto and grocery behemoth Eataly, will debut a coastal Italian-themed restaurant in the swanky Maritime Hotel. It’s the first resto from the pair in 10 years, so get your reservations in order, pronto.
CHRIS ADAMUS
in TRANSIT NEWS
CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW? It’s 2015 but clear phone calls via online services can still seem like an alien concept. Below, options for calling home while on the road and what we think of them.
SKYPE The most familiar system is not the friendliest. Dropped calls, time delays and impossible-to-navigate program updates can leave you wanting to throw your phone out the window in favour of smoke signals
EVEN ADVENTURES NEED PLANNING
Looking for daydream inspiration or practical packing tips? Bookmark these three sites to make life on the road easier
or carrier pigeon. RATING:
FACEBOOK VIDEO CALLING Since most free calling apps require both parties to have the program, Facebook has
HITHA ON THE GO hithaonthego.com
Business executive, lifestyle blogger and founder of travel packing consultancy Portavi Company, Hitha Palepu has made it her life’s mission to travel intelligently and efficiently — without breaking her back. Via tutorials and checklists, she shares her packing expertise to ensure you use suitcase space right and leave no outfit unworn. TATLER HOLIDAY WIZARD wizard.tatler.com/inspirations
Drawing from 1,006 holiday options including a private game reserve in Leopold, South Africa, and Baghvan Lodge in Pench, India, the area that inspired Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book, this multiple-choice questionnaire helps you define exactly what you’re looking for from a trip. Useful for anyone looking to define their daydreams, this tool was created in partnership with high-end holiday operator Carrier, but even if you’re just window shopping, it’s fuel for the imagination.
the edge because almost everyone you know already uses it. They do, however, need a browser that supports the function. Turn off the camera if you prefer voice-only calls; once you’re up and running the line is clear and calls drop less frequently than with other options. RATING:
GOOGLE CHAT Making calls over Gmail was the natural progression from Gchat. Call anyone on your contact list and use the dialpad for free
FATHOM AWAY fathomaway.com/postcards/scenery/
Filled with everything from tips to local love letters, this site covers both the practical and romantic sides of travel. Browse photo galleries of “48 hours in Copenhagen” or take a “four-minute desk vacation to Oman,” whatever you read, you’ll leave inspired.
local calls to landlines and mobiles. There is a slight delay, but the quality of calls is generally good. RATING:
WHATSAPP Expectations were high when a voice-
THE FUTURE OF TRAVEL || RISING IN THE EAST “For the first time since the European Renaissance, the locus of travel is moving eastward. Both consumer and business travel trends are now being defined and tested out in regions other than the U.S. and Europe. ... The Asean Southeast Asian nations are where the future of travel will be tested.” Rafat Ali, CEO and founder of global travel intelligence brand Skift
calling feature was added to the text-messaging app earlier this year. In our testing, the line was incredibly clear — almost too clear for my poor friend when the coffee grinder was going off in the café I was calling her from — but like the rest, it is dependent on a good internet connection. When reception dipped, a holding sound was played, but the call returned within a couple seconds. RATING: — Alex Laws LA CARTE
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in
TRANSIT the PERFECT DAY
Romina Ciferni’s guide to an ideal day in Italy’s fashion capital is a love letter to food, drink and architecture By Heather Marrin
Milano, ti amo
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OPPOSITE: COURTESY ROMINA CIFERNI; THIS PAGE: BAR LUCE BY ROMINA CIFERNI; HANDOUT; COURTESY LADY BU
Head to Bar Luce for a traditional Italian breakfast.
omina Ciferni, an industrial design and visual communication grad from Politecnico di Milano who now works in public relations, has been living in Milan for 20 years and says that the landscape of the city has been constantly evolving while she’s been there. The last few years running up to Expo Milano 2015, which continues to October and is themed “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life,” have brought particularly inspiring transformations to the city, including the Bosco Verticale as well as Piuarch’s White Wave building in Porta Nuovo. Ciferni’s perfect day in Milan involves a 15-kilometre walking tour that reads like a love letter to Italian architecture. And it just so happens that a number of her favourite spots boast the best food and drink menus in the city. THE EARLY BIRD GETS THE ESPRESSO “Quiet, beautiful and a magnet for light in the morning, Bar Luce [luce means “light” in Italian] is the best place to grab an espresso and a traditional Italian breakfast, a cornetto [croissant]. The café’s decor
is designed by film director Wes Anderson and breathes a retro air of 1950s to ’60s Italian pop culture, but also pays homage to the decorative details of the building’s original structure — the arched ceiling mirrors the glass roof of Milan’s famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele ll.” CATCH A NEW EXHIBIT “After breakfast, I love checking out what new exhibits have popped up within the Fondazione Prada [an institution dedicated to contemporary design and culture]. A distillery redeveloped into an art and culture compound by Rem Koolhaas, even the buildings themselves offer a feast for the eyes.” MANGIA, MANGIA “One place I keep going back to is Spazio by Niko Romito Formazione. It’s a teaching kitchen, so the menu is always evolving and an incredible four-course lunch comes at a really decent price. I also love the atmosphere here; it’s really romantic and the venue offers a panoramic view of the Duomo. Great for people watching!” STOP AND SMELL THE ROSES “One of my favourite walks through the city is within a developing area that lies at the base of the skyscrapers in Porta Nuova. A perfect balance again of new and old, in Isola
you’ll find award-winning garden terraces. Coined Bosco Verticale, which means ‘vertical forest,’ this little urban greenhouse offers 10,000 square metres of greenery and flowers planted within the buildings.”
EXPLORE A LANDMARK “The Triennale Design
Museum is more than 100 years old. I try to make it there at least five times a year. A tourist hotspot, it’s a must-see.” APERITIVO IN THE PARK “Next to the Triennale is Parco Sempione. I love getting lost in the lush greenery and stopping in for a pre-dinner aperitivo at Bar Bianco; they have a lovely outdoor terrace.” SAY FORMAGGIO! “I adore cheese and LadyBù always has a diverse seasonal selection. And when you pair it with their homemade focaccia bread, it’s magic. A fairly typical Italian menu at fair prices, it’s very famiglia friendly and makes me feel like I’m at home.” HAVE A NIGHTCAP “After dinner I love walking through the Navigli to meet up with friends. Rita & Cocktails is my standard. I like it not only because my mother’s name is Rita, but because it’s one of the best cocktail bars in Milan. My drink of choice is Gin Zen. It’s a cool, fresh cocktail accompanied by warm service.” AN EVENING PASSEGIATA “I love being able to walk everywhere. Milan is very easy to get around by foot. And since the city has been going through so many transformations, it’s nice to be able to take a few minutes to really look, reflect and notice the details that I don’t normally notice on my day-to-day.”
Rejuvenate at Bosco Verticale: skyscrapers turned urban greehouses.
Lady Bu is a must for cheese lovers.
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PIN IT the FALL GUIDE
Planning your next trip? Our Pin It section will help you decide where to head next, whether you want to let your dinner determine your destination, learn about Italy’s best new bubbly or marvel at the comeback being made by old-school motels. Clip these pages, share them with your travel mates and enjoy plotting your adventure.
PIN, PLOT, THEN PACK & GO ART on a PLATE
the RETURN of the MOTEL JUNIPER MOTEL Portland, Oregon
TOCA, RITZ-CARLTON Toronto, Ontario THE SAUGATUCK RESORT Saugatuck, Michigan
World’s BEST restos
Culinary CLASSES
WHITE RABBIT Moscow, Russia
THE PINES MOTEL Douglas, Michigan
VAGABOND HOTEL Miami, Florida
DEAD END BBQ Knoxville, Tennessee
HOTEL CHÂTEAU LES MERLES Dordogne, France BIARRITZ BY LOCALS Biarritz, France
ULTRAVIOLET Shanghai, China
SPICE SPOONS Koh Phangan, Thailand KAPIOLANI COMMUNITY COLLEGE Honolulu, Hawaii
CENTRAL Lima, Peru
FOUR SEASONS RESORT Nevis, West Indies
FIOL Veneto, Italy FALLING FOR FOGO Fogo Island, Newfoundland
TOP tipple
Q&A
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PIN IT
THE TOAST OF VENETO
Champagne may have to step aside, Italy’s hottest new bubbly has arrived By Maryam Siddiqi
V
eneto, in the northeast of Italy, is a region known primarily for two things: the watery wonderland of Venice and its steep vineyards filled with glera grapes, the small, green berries that are grown for making Prosecco. Good job, too: The bubbly is increasingly in demand. In 2014, Brits buying alcohol in supermarkets spent more on Prosecco than they did on Champagne for the first time ever — £40.5-million more. That’s 28 m illion bottles of Veneto’s signature drink. The pulse of Veneto can be taken in Treviso, about a 40-minute drive from tourist-filled Venice. It is a place where people live out14
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doors, cycling from home to gather in squares and lanes so they can sip Aperol Spritzes and snack on cicchetti, Italy’s version of tapas. It is also the home of the team behind Fiol, a new Prosecco label that is providing the establishment with a jolt of young blood. “Fiol is a way of living,” says Giacomo Ciani Bassetti, strategic development manager with the brand. The team of friends who founded the Prosecco label, all in their 20s and 30s, did so as a means of spreading Treviso’s creative and casual lifestyle around the world. Launched in 2011, with an international focus, the bubbly in the sexy black bottle landed first in Hong Kong, then London, followed by the U.S. It arrived on shelves in Canada in late 2014. While the fivemembers of the team come from various backgrounds including consulting and communications — none had a background in winemaking — they developed the Prosecco and brand under the tutelage of Ciani Bassetti’s father, Tito, a preeminent winemaker who came out of retirement to foster Fiol. In traditional Venetian, the word fiol translated to son. Now it means “cool guy” or “friend,” and it’s this sort of reputation Ciani Bassetti and friends hope their Prosecco will earn. “Instead of bringing a case of beer to a party, we want people to think about bringing a few bottles of Fiol,” Ciani Bassetti says. And indeed, this light, fresh, extra-dry bubbly with a touch of citrus is exactly the type of free-flowing drink that not only complements a party, but is a reason for throwing one.
COURTESY CHRISTIE’S
DRINK
VALERIE HOWES
PIN IT EAT
▲ From top left: candy-like pebbles; a bright Fogo house; an old boathouse; candied caribou moss granola; Howes with local delicacies; Fogo wildflowers.
L
ike anyone who’s had the fortune to visit Fogo Island, off the northeast coast of Newfoundland, writer Valerie Howes has been charmed by the place — one that was meant to be deserted after the federal government- imposed a cod fishery moratorium in 1992. But islanders have persevered and, with the arrival of the award-winning Fogo Island Inn in 2013, have a renewed sense of purpose. Howes is currently working on a book about Fogo’s culinary traditions, to be published in late 2016. Here, she shares her thoughts on the island and its food.
DON’T FORGO FOGO
Writer Valerie Howes fell in love with the exotic flavours of this remote Canadian community — and so will you By Maryam Siddiqi
EYES (AND BELLIES) LOOKING FORWARD
“Younger people are not always as interested in things like making jam and eating salt beef. Many leave for school and work in bigger cities, and their tastes change. They bring [back] fresh ideas, too. Thirty years ago, a family might eat the same dish on a rotation through the week, all year. Now it’s more spontaneous and diversified. And there are international artists here and doctors at the hospital who put a new spin on local ingredients. I studied a hospital fundraiser cookbook and found an Indian doctor sharing recipes like moose curry.”
FINE DINING ON FOGO
FOGO KITCHEN STAPLES
“I came to Fogo Island over five years ago, when the inn was about to be built, because I was intrigued by this place I’d seen in black -and-white NFB films [Howes used to work for the National Film Board of Canada] and by the plans [native islander and Fogo Island Inn founder] Zita Cobb had to make it a geotourism and arts destination. I was fascinated by the way food was evolving — traditional dishes that were hearty and simple, designed to feed large families and hardworking fishers and sealers, were being reinvented in the fine-dining context. When I first came, there was just one fine-dining restaurant on the island, Nicole’s. The people there were doing great stuff. But
“People here are more likely to have a freezer full of fish, crab and moose that they caught or hunted themselves. Molasses and Caribbean spices are popular in baked goods — that dates back to historical trading links, salt cod from Fogo Island for these sweet goods from Jamaica and other Caribbean countries. Dried fruits, such as dates and raisins, were traditionally used, because they were easy to ship and store. And, oh my God, the berries! Many people I spoke with over the age of 40 come home after work and unwind by berry picking for an hour or two. The tarts here are incredible. Sweet-tart partridgeberries are the most popular, and my favourite.”
those at the inn were already laying the groundwork, asking gardeners to grow for them and to get interesting poultry, so they could have things like fresh, local duck and quail eggs.” NATURE AS NIGHTLIFE
“Nature is the main source of entertainment, whether gardening, fishing or berry picking. There’s no mall or cinema or nightclub on the island. There’s no real pub culture. People drink in their sheds with friends and neighbours, and they sing together. They might harvest growlers — little pieces of iceberg — to cool their drinks.”
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PIN IT EAT
W
hat used to be begrudgingly consumed is now being celebrated as airlines compete for the most sophisticated meals in the sky. And with reason: Paris-based consultancy Archery Strategy Consulting reported on businessinsider.com last year that the airline food market is worth an estimated €10-billion. We found some of the sky’s most refined airlines are serving up serious business class eats, but because food must be healthy, in addition to tasty, we asked Dr. Sapna Flower, a naturopathic doctor at Toronto’s Restore Integrative Health clinic to find out what meals truly fly, well, highest. EMIRATES Emirates’ business class meals are five-course affairs. The airline’s award-winning chefs have created a range of healthy options that preserve original flavours and essential vitamins, without adding saturated and trans fats, salt or sugars. Dishes are often grilled, poached or stewed. A sample menu might start with a Campari Bitter, premium smoked salmon and fresh dill, marinated prawns and scallops, served with avocado salsa and freshly baked bread, accompanied by Champagne. For dessert: yogourt terrine mousse, with a vintage port or coffee and a few chocolates. WHAT OUR NUTRITIONIST SAYS “Healthy methods of preparing food are fantastic ways of preserving flavours without adding calories. The salmon is a healthy protein choice, loaded with anti- inflammatory omega -3 fatty acids, with more heart healthy fats in the avocado salsa. Even the starter aperitif of Campari bitters helps prep the digestive tract by influencing digestive juices to be released.” ★★★★★ SWISS AIR The airline has won awards for its culinary program, Taste of Switzerland, that is served on all flights departing from Switzerland. The program brings top Swiss chefs on board for a seasonal menu, to interpret a culinary region or theme, and at the helm is chef Antonio Colaianni, holder of a Michelin star. Passengers will recognize some iconic Swiss brands on the menu like Mövenpick and Nespresso. An average meal includes Gravad char with crème fraîche, cucumber, radish and watercress, followed by a main of Zürcher Geschnetzeltes — sliced veal with mushroom cream sauce, rösti and broccoli. A course of Swiss cheese follows, think Wildbach, camembert and Zürcher Rahmkäse with orange
THE FOOD UP THERE
Airline food is an increasingly lucrative market, which means carriers are getting increasingly inventive with their menus. But does haute cuisine translate to healthy eats? By Karen Cleveland
Emirates
★★★★★
Swiss Air
★★★★★
Air Canada
★★★★★
Singapore Airlines 16
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★★★★★
mustard. Dessert is a decadent pistachio and lime financier with yogourt and peach. Swiss chocolates and coffee end the meal. WHAT OUR NUTRITIONIST SAYS “Though delicious, if health is what you’re looking for, this menu is not the optimal choice. Though they are using quality ingredients, options are very rich. This menu can be enjoyed as a one-off.” ★★★★★ AIR CANADA Working with famous Canadian chef David Hawksworth, Air Canada’s menu is Canadianinfluenced, but often features international dishes, giving a nod to the local cuisine of the route being flown. Additionally, Air Canada works with Ken Chase, a world-renowned oenologist and viticulturist who chooses wines from some of the world’s top vineyards, including those in Canada. Business class passengers are spoiled with poached Nova Scotia lobster, marinated shrimp and sautéed scallop. Entrées like grilled Alberta AAA beef tenderloin with truffle and porcini sauce, potato au gratin, baby carrots and fine green beans or roasted Atlantic salmon with a pinot grigio sauce, barley risotto and a vegetable medley hit the spot. Meals wind down with a selection of cheeses and a glass of port followed by a selection of desserts. WHAT OUR NUTRITIONIST SAYS “This menu has an impressive choice of healthy offerings, such as the roasted Atlantic salmon and risotto with vegetables. Opt for the fruit course as a refreshing ending to the meal.” ★★★★★ SINGAPORE AIRLINES Serving around 194,000 bottles of Champagne annually, Singapore Airlines offers up the good life. Its menu stacks up, too. Passengers can start with a carpaccio of tuna pastrami with pine nuts and olive oil, marinated green beans and grilled eggplant salad, before moving on to a main course of seared Atlantic king salmon with basil pesto, grilled vegetables and sauteed broccolini. To finish: a rich baked cheesecake and fruit coulis, or a cheese plate of brie, blue and manchego with grapes, nuts and crackers. WHAT OUR NUTRITIONIST SAYS “Amazing menu! With a healthy protein choice of salmon, lots of vegetables, fruits and nuts, this menu is well balanced. The tuna pastrami may be a bit too high in sodium, which is why I would opt for the seared king salmon with basil pesto with veggies. I want to be on this next flight out!” ★★★★★
FOUR SEASONS
PIN IT EAT
Lobster hunting in the waters of Nevis.
WORK FOR YOUR DINNER
Food has an undeniable intimacy: Rolling up your sleeves and learning about a locale’s offerings provides a glimpse into its history, cultures and hospitality — and you’re rewarded for your efforts with a meal to remember. From Tennessee to Thailand, we present a collection of some of the coolest culinary adventures to plan a trip around By Karen Cleveland LEARN LUA-WORTHY RECIPES IN HONOLULU
Kapi’olani Community College in Honolulu, Hawaii, counts some of the state’s revered chefs as its alumni, among them Alan Wong, Sam Choy and Wayne Hirabayashi. Sign up for a continuing-education class to learn about traditional Hawaiian fare, including key lime avocado pie and coconut lilikoi macarons. US$60 808-734-9211, kapiolani.hawaii.edu GET BBQ LESSONS FROM A TENNESSEE PIT MASTER
There’s no better place to master fire than in Tennessee. Here, George Ewart, co-founder of Knoxville’s Dead End BBQ,
trains enthusiasts of the South’s best barbecue in his “Backyard to Competition” classes. You’ll master ribs, brisket-wrapped scallops, his competition-winning chicken and more. US$100
mango salad), then enjoy the results of your hard work over a bottle of malaga blanc, a local Thai wine. THB2,800
Biarritz, France, is the hub of classic Basque cuisine. In a threehour session, local chef Richard Daulay welcomes students into a huge kitchen to school them in transforming regional organic ingredients like freshly caught small squid and local veal into traditional dishes like tender veal axoa de veau and quintessential French seafood, chipirons à la plancha. €85
At the Four Seasons Resort Nevis, you can learn to lasso your own lobster during a two-tank dive. Once you’ve dried off, sip cocktails on the beach while chef Jason Adams prepares the fruits of your adventure. He’ll teach you his recipe for a Nevisian barbecue glaze, made with fresh ingredients from a local organic farm, while grilling the day’s catch. Spiny lobster and lion fish are frequently on the menu. US$1,950 per couple, including day use (from 9 a.m. to sunset) of one of the resort’s four private Beach Houses.
+33 (0)6 95 45 54 99,
869-469-1111,
biarritzbylocals.com
fourseasons.com/nevis/
+66 77 239 555, phangan-rasananda.anantara.com/
865-212-5655, deadendbbq.com BASK IN BASQUE SPICE IT UP IN THAILAND
A welcome cocktail at Spice Spoons in Ko Phangan, Thailand, sets the stage for its twohour cooking classes. Students learn the alchemy that makes Thai food so addictive — that perfect balance of salty, sweet, spicy and pungent. Guided by a master Thai chef, you’ll learn how to make tod man pla (Thai fishcakes), tom kha gai (coconut chicken soup) or yam mamuang pla krob (crispy fish with spicy
CATCH AND COOK YOUR OWN LOBSTER IN THE WEST INDIES
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PIN IT EAT
ALL-STAR KITCHENS By Kim Curley
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, a compendium of the globe’s culinary who’s who compiled by the U.K.’s Restaurant magazine, was slammed this year when word got out in a highly publicized way that proof of purchase is not required to vote on the restaurants. Critics also pointed out a lack of global representation, with most of the establishments located in Europe and North America. Still, taking the list with a pinch of Himalayan salt, there are some standouts. If you’re looking for your tastebuds to guide you to your next destination, bookmark these three spots.
When Jacqueline Poirier found there wasn’t much appetite for her work on canvases, she began painting on plates By Alex Laws When Ontario College of Art and Design graduate Jacqueline Poirier wasn’t getting any traction with her abstract canvas paintings four years ago, she became a server at the Ritz-Carlton’s Toca restaurant in Toronto. Eight months later, her manager saw her compete in — and win — a live painting contest in the city, and asked if she’d like to paint on the restaurant’s porcelain charger plates (an unprecedented invitation). Her bosses were so impressed they suggested she do the whole dinner service with the help of other local artists, but Poirier had other ideas. “I thought, ‘I’m not telling anyone else about this, I’m going to do all of these myself,’” she says. “It took me two to three weeks to paint all 120 and the moment I filled the dining room, people were asking to buy them,” she says. Poirier went on to become the hotel’s artist in residence. Meanwhile, she continued to work at the restaurant as a server for the next eight months. “People came in for a food and wine experience, but had the option of taking home a piece of local art for $200.” She still creates pieces for the Ritz-Carlton, but has started her own business doing custom work and is painting non-stop. Poirier is farming “Each plate takes many layers of porcelain paint and then glaze, Toronto film festival which helps brighten the colour and adhere the paint.” Poirier then guests lists for bakes them in an oven to set. All in all, it’s about three hours of her next celebrity inspiration. painting and 24 hours to cure a single dish. Most recently, Poirier has been working on an exhibition called “A Feast for the Eyes,” which is on display in Toronto’s Distillery District until the end of September. “My painting partner Brooke and I just thought of our favourite foods. I thought, I like grilled cheese and pizza and Nerds. It was great fun to paint stuff for ourselves.” When asked what’s next, the artists doesn’t miss a beat: “I want to do a selfie plate. It sounds so vain but I think it would be really funny.” She’s also looking to the Toronto International Film Festival (Sept. 10-20) for inspiration. “I’m really excited for TIFF because the Ritz-Carlton is so close to the TIFF Bell Lightbox and it’s a really buzzy area. I caught the attention of international A-listers last year and I want to see who is on the roster this fall and get painting,” she says. Last year, Morgan Freeman bought the Morgan Freeman plate and Al Pacino bought his face on a plate, too. “This is why I don’t feel bad painting a selfie plate,” says Poirier, “because plenty of other people are buying plate pictures of themselves!” 18
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NO. 4: CENTRAL, LIMA PERU centralrestaurante.com.pe
No. Chef Vergilo Martinez’s flagship 4 restaurant is just one example of the increased presence of South American food on this list. (The continent is up to six establishments from two in 2012). Serving up Peruvian cuisine with a focus on eating locally and sustainably, the 18-course tasting menu features flavours from plants indigenous to the Andes and herbs grown on site, from frogfish and deep water algae to chilled cactus milk and leg of lamb served with edible clay, a traditional Peruvian delicacy. NO. 24: SHANGHAI’S ULTRAVIOLET uvbypp.cc
No. Ultraviolet marks the return of China to 24 the list. Paul Pairet’s surrealist restaurant changes its soundtrack and art with each course. An example: As diners dig into to the Fish — No Chips, a deep-fried caper bud filled with mayonnaise, the Union Jack appears on tables and The Beatles play in the background. Another theatrical standout: The Foie Gras Can’t Quit is a mousse of foie gras inserted into a cigarette made of fruit skin perched on an “ashtray” dotted with cabbage. NO. 23: MOSCOW’S WHITE RABBIT whiterabbitmoscow.ru
No. The restaurant’s architecture — a glass 23 domed ceiling — stands out almost as much as the exciting menu, featuring twists on Russian classics like clam stroganoff.
JACQUELINE POIRIER
Not quite edible art
COURTESY THE SAUGATUCK (TOP), THE JUPITER HOTEL (BOTTOM)
PIN IT STAY
Motel moment
Thanks to a retro revival, the humble roadside rest stop is becoming a coveted alternative to impersonal hotels By Lauren Marinigh
R
emember the days of motels? These kitschy and affordable accommodations may not be top of mind for everyone when planning their next adventure, but thanks to the rising interest in boutique accommodations and out-of-the-ordinary experiences, the motel is making a comeback. Perhaps no property encapsulates the trend more than Portland’s Jupiter Hotel, a neglected 1960s motor lodge that has been renovated and restored and is now a destination. The hotel now has 81 guest rooms that feature custom hand-made murals on the walls. The interior of its restolounge, The Doug Fir, draws on ’50s modernism with generous original woodwork. The owners of the Jupiter have seen a shift in the hotel industry over the last five years — one that’s aligned with a greater consumer interest in supporting local businesses — and early on, property owners committed themselves to creating a unique motel option. As a result, it has free art shows every month, chalkboard doors in the rooms, multiple event spaces, throwback snacks like Cracker Jacks in the mini bar and guests can even bring their pooches along for the stay. “Travellers today want authentic environments that complement the experience they are looking for wherever they are travel-
ling,” says Zach Miller, Jupiter’s assistant general manager. Many of these roadside boutique motels are being restored to their original looks, but with chic twists to make today’s travellers feel comfortable. “People are more and more attracted to authenticity and embracing the historic properties that give us that connection to the past,” says Avra Jain, owner of Miami’s Vagabond Hotel. Vagabond screams retro chic;
Top: The Saugatuck’s neon sign shines in Michigan. Bottom: The Jupiter Hotel lures intrepid travellers heading to Portland.
completed in 1953, it gained a reputation as a hangout for stars like Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr., the motel was restored last year, giving its retro-luxe interiors a new life, while maintaining authentic touches such as stenciled geometric wall art, original flooring and funky custom-made furniture. While the return of motels as a coveted places to stay would seem to be led by hipsters seeking rooms less-often booked on paths most-often travelled, Rob Goeke, co-owner of The Pines Motorlodge and The Saugatuck Resort in Douglas and Saugatuck, Michigan respectively, sees all sorts of guests at his properties. “We get families that grew up coming to our motels, older couples celebrating milestones and quite a few younger folks that just think the whole retro thing is cool,” Goeke says. The hipsters are coming — but so are their grandparents. Aside from creating unique accommodations, Goeke and his partner Steve Laughner have made it a priority to provide guest services that are as unique as his properties’ designs. They make sure to personally communicate with each of their guests, building relationships that translate into return visits. These authentic experiences and personal touches make guests feel at home and as if they are going back to a simpler time — a time when families loaded their kids up in the car for the great American road trip and stayed at roadside motels along the way. Now the question is how long until we see the return of the station wagon? LA CARTE
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ADVERTORIAL
EATING OUT IN GLASGOW’S FINNIESTON
Put away the bagpipes, people: The notion that Scottish cuisine starts and ends with neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes) is laughably archaic. Glasgow is rich with dining options, from posh rooms serving prime cuts of Aberdeen Angus beef, to creative small plate spots, to kitchens capitalizing on great shellfish in a land surrounded by sea.
Finnieston: A salty dockyard area turned hopping ‘hood in Glasgow’s west end. COURTESY GLASGOW CITY MARKETING BUREAU
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t the moment, Glasgow’s neighbourhood of note for food enthusiasts is Finnieston, in the city’s west end, north of the River Clyde. Once a salty dockyard area, recent years have seen it transformed in the manner of cool ’hoods around the world, where low rents draw artists, beards and tattoos, sparking a culture boom. It boasts contemporary landmarks like the
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Riverside Museum, with a striking neo-futuristic façade by architect Zaha Hadid; and the SSE Hydro Arena, the second busiest entertainment venue on Earth, which hosts the likes of Alt-J and U2. Finnieston will keep you busy — better get enough to eat. A number of spots focus on small plates foregrounding local ingredients. The kitchen to beat is The Gannet. An anchor
on Finnieston’s buzzing stretch of Argyle Street, The Gannet won a Michelin Bib Gourmand award for offering fine food at good prices. Housed in a vacant tenement building that the owners revitalized before opening in 2013, it exemplifies trendy industrial-chic ambience, but also the confident heart of new Scottish cooking: dishes highlight game and fish sourced from the Hebridean
coast. Think meaty cod and potatoes, teased with delicate samphire and dashi. Also on Michelin’s list is Ox & Finch, a large, rustic room on Sauchiehall Street concentrating on sharing plates. The kitchen draws on flavours from around the world: confit duck gets a Thai yellow curry treatment, while pork appears in the guise of chorizo, Italian sausage and belly gussiedup tomato sambal. Further toward the comfort food end of the spectrum, but still doling out plates in large and small sizes, is The Scullery on Claremont Street. Here, you’ll find honey and thyme baked Camembert with crusty bread, roast breast of pheasant and an Angus beef burger. Most of the action, however, is found on Argyle Street. Crabshakk, one of the first spots to kickstart Finnieston’s rebirth, homes in on fresh seafood, served simply, in a tight-but-lively room with an open kitchen. Scallops, langoustines, mussels and, yup, crabs populate their fruits de mer platter for two, while daily specials give the plate to wild salmon or monkfish cheek scampi. If you’re feeling less
formal, there’s fish and chips or house chowder to enjoy with a cold beer. Also on Argyle Street and plumbing the sea’s bounty, The Finnieston offers seafood served in a nautical ambience, with a near-obsessive love of gin. The 15 different G&Ts on offer (The Sailor, The Poet, The Pilot) provide options for pairing with Loch Fyne oysters or perhaps a wee plate of cured mackerel with pomegranate and lime. The vibe is pubby and loose: Have a gin, have two. Right next door to The Finnieston, Porter & Rye also worships the cocktail, but here it’s Manhattans and Sazeracs, to complement the kitchen’s focus on dry-aged Scottish beef from the locker. From Porterhouse to ribeye to rump, to a regular Sunday roast brisket, this is Finnieston’s utopia for cattle fiends. An extra reason to love it: The drinks menu helpfully offers whisky and beer pairings, for a more refined class of Boilermaker. Another prime cocktail spot is the retro-chic Kelvingrove
The Ox & Finch specializes in flavours of the world via a menu of small plates. COURTESY OX & FINCH
Once a salty dockyard area, recent years have seen Finnieston transformed in the manner of cool ’hoods around the world, starting with a culture boom Café, where you can sip a classic highball from the comfort of a lush leather banquette. These are serious mixologists, who make their ice based on techniques used by Glasgow café owners in the 1930s. Time for a coffee, then. Argyle Street’s cozy café is The Steamie, where specialty
You can’t go wrong with fish and gin at The Finnieston. COURTESY THE FINNIESTON
coffees and home-baked cakes appear alongside a lineup of no-fuss panini. Try the Arrow Collar cold brew,— or, if you’re not caffeinating, the white rose and vanilla hot chocolate. Word has it the chocolate cherry brownies are ace. If you’re hankering for something spicy, Mother India, on Westminster Terrace, is one of Glasgow’s most beloved curry houses, a three-floor institution that does Indian classics in a Scottish brogue, like king prawn and monkfish with ginger and dill. It’s been successful enough to spawn four sister restaurants, including Mother India’s Café — on Argyle Street, wouldn’t you know it. Here, there’s also something un poco distinto about the Indian food; namely, it’s served as tapas. Small plates of saag paneer,
chicken tikka and fish pakoras maintain the Mother’s standard for South Asian cooking, but you can sample more dishes. If, after this, you’re still searching for a good time, head just west on Kelvinhaugh Street to The 78, a famously affordable boho vegan café/ bar with craft beer, open mic nights and live DJ sets on the weekend. If you’d rather catch a movie, don’t. Instead, head down Argyle Street again to Lebowski’s, a bar themed after the Coen brothers’ classic film, The Big Lebowski. There, dig some Creedence, raise a White Russian, and proclaim in honour of Finnieston’s culinary clout: like, slàinte, man. For more information on Finnieston and Glasgow’s food scene, visit peoplemakeglasgow.ca.
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SWEET VALLEY HIGH
Osoyoos, B.C., is Canada’s only true desert and an incubator for those looking to reinvent themselves. Fortunately, as Michele Sponagle finds, they’re often doing it on vineyards and in kitchens
Four and a half hours east by car from Vancouver in the southern part of the Okanagan Valley, south of Kelowna, past Penticton and Oliver, sits Osoyoos. A small town surrounded by mountains, vineyards, organic farms and orchards, it is Canada’s only true desert. It is also a sun-drenched oasis for those seeking escape from British Columbia’s cloudy skies. You don’t need to go further than the town’s main drag to see evidence that folks have made pilgrimages here since the 1950s — a line of motels so authentically kitschy, they’re downright hip. The common thread that seems to run through Osoyoos is that it is made up of people who have come to reinvent themselves — switching careers, pursuing lifelong dreams and opening new businesses. You’ll find these enterprising souls at hotels and restaurants, and often, the region’s wineries — more than 235 are scattered throughout the Okanagan Valley. The town is the type that takes care of its own. It wants everyone to succeed and become a vibrant part of the community. To achieve that goal, the vibe is cooperation rather than competition. People are proud to live and work here. Take Bruce Fuller, a former marketing executive from West Vancouver, who opened a winery in 2009. Rustico Farm & Cellars taps into the spirit of the Old West, complete with a rustic log bunkhouse from the 1800s. As an oenophile, Fuller had always wanted to own his own label and he got that chance when the property in Osoyoos with its well-established vineyards came up for sale. “It was a unique property because of its history,” he says. “I had envisioned an Italian-themed winery, but I changed gears when I saw this place and opted for a Western focus.” 22
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MICHELE SPONAGLE
Osoyoos and neighbouring Oliver are rich with wineries including Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, pictured.
That’s why Fuller pours his customers wine not in a tasting room but a saloon decorated with Western-themed antiques, from old gas lanterns to wagon wheels. And instead of traditional wine glasses, he uses tumblers reflective of the pomp-free, rustic charm of the place. His long furry moustache, weathered cowboy hat, boots and denim overalls give him the appearance of a man who grew up on the back of a horse. He’s a charismatic character who deputizes his customers as wine marshalls, complete with badges. Some 4,000 visitors have become part of his Rustico Wine Posse, his version of a wine club, entitling members to discounts and special perks. Rustico’s Mother Lode, a bold smoky merlot with cherry overtones, or Last Chance, a zinfandel-centric red blend with earthy, leather and tobacco notes, are perfect pairings for a lunch of charcuterie and cheese. While there’s no restaurant on-site, guests are welcome to bring their own and dine at the picnic tables provided. Another transplant making his mark in Osoyoos is chef Chris Van Hooydonk, an Albertan who moved to the Okanagan and enrolled in culinary school when he was just 16. Afterward, he snagged positions at Harvest Dining Room in Kelowna and the Four Seasons hotel in Boston, before returning west and landing in Oliver at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery as executive chef. While he learned a lot working in the corporate culinary arena, it wasn’t entirely satisfying, so he exited that world and was faced with the “Now what?” dilemma. He catered for three years before opening up Artisan Culinary Concepts in Oliver. His base is a renovated farmhouse that’s kitted out with an open professional kitchen and a spacious dining room with a single table that seats 20. Outside, the property has more than 80 60-year-old fruit trees on what he calls, “Backyard Farms.” It’s the perfect setting for Van Hooydonk to stage his bespoke culinary experiences. “I love cooking for people,” he says. “And I wanted to enhance the experience by showing them what it truly is to enjoy good food. That’s always been my vision.” His new endeavour, which has been open just over a year, is a culmination of all of his previous culinary work experience, his intimate knowledge of the best local wines and producers and his passion for eating and learning. This enterprise falls somewhere between a restaurant and a cooking school. Van Hooydonk prepares dinner for small groups, whether 24
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they simply want to be fed or are looking to take an active role in the preparation, guided each step of the way by a man who adores food. As dishes arrive at the table, they look like art — carefully arranged on the plate to make the most of colour, shape and texture, then garnished with pretty touches like pansies. The tender oven-roasted lamb sirloin, drizzled deftly with a cherry-infused jus, is paired with a fruit-forward petit verdot from Moon Cursor Vineyards. Van Hooydonk radiates excitement as he talks about this meat he’s sourced from a local farmer who’s adopted humane and ethical methods of production. Delicate pillows of ricotta gnocchi sit to the side. “With my food, every ingredient has a story and I’m happy to tell it,” he says. Van Hooydonk manages what many chefs try and fail to do. His cuisine finds a happy place balance between simplicity and innovation. The flavours of each thoughtfully sourced ingredient shine through, while still being interesting enough to please palates that have been there and tasted that. And he makes it seem effortless. In the environs of Osoyoos, where his backyard is his grocery store, it’s clear that his talents are free to soar unencumbered by the limitations of being in the corporate arena. While reinvention is a way of life in Osoyoos, it’s done carefully when it comes to the town itself, according to Ingrid Jarrett, general manager of the Watermark Beach Resort, chairman of the B.C. Hotel Association and an Osoyoos resident for the past 11 years. “We’ve been very careful with development here,” she explains. “It’s important to protect it and put the needs of the community and the families who live here first while we provide all the amenities that tourism requires.” There’s no wall of condo buildings on the lakefront, nor big box businesses. The Watermark Beach Resort anchors the lakeside block it sits on — for rooms with a view, this is the place to be. From a patio or balcony, you can watch the sunset (glass of wine in hand, naturally) or walk a few metres to the water’s edge and slip into the warm water for a summer swim. Families tend to stick close to the swimming pool, while twosomes find romance on a blanket on the grass by the lake. It’s an ideal hub from which to explore all that Osoyoos offers. “We realize that we have something really special,” says Jarrett. And indeed, Osoyoos, though small, is full of creativity — the kind that gets under your skin and calls you back — all the better for reinventing yourself.
ALL PHOTOS BY MICHELE SPONAGLE EXCEPT FOR WATERMARK RESORT (CREDIT: COURTESY WATERMARK RESORT) AND VAN HOOYDONK AND COLLEAGUES (CREDIT: MORGAN SOMMERVILLE / SERENA PR)
IN THE ENVIRONS OF OSOYOOS, WHERE HIS BACKYARD IS HIS GROCERY STORE, IT’S CLEAR THAT CHEF CHRIS VAN HOOYDONK’S TALENTS ARE FREE TO SOAR
Rustico Farm & Cellars owner Bruce Fuller; the view from the Rustico estate; a sweet end to a meal by chef Chris Van Hooydonk of Artisan Culinary Concepts and Backyard Farms; tucking into dinner at ACC; relaxing at Watermark Resort; a sign of the desert; Rustico’s historic bunkhouse; lamb loin by Van Hooydonk; a tuna starter at ACC; Van Hooydonk, middle, with server Allison Perran and apprentice Kyle Campbell; Backyard Farms’ cherries.
ANANTARA HUA HIN
GREAT SCOT The best tea in the world can be found at a small plantation, the size of a large garden, an hour’s drive north of Edinburgh. Pay Chen visits the Wee Tea Plantation in the hills of Perthshire for a cup of the much-coveted brew
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here are certain things people assume you will experience when in Scotland: haggis, hills, castles, whisky. Tea — their tea — is not one of them. But it likely soon will be. Some of the best tea in the world is being grown at a former sheep farm surrounded by grassy, overlapping hills in Highland Perthshire, about 100 kilometres north of Edinburgh. The man behind it: Tam O’Braan. Tea-savvy brokers from around the world have arrived unannounced on his doorstep offering to buy the whole stock. He’s politely declined every time, opting to keep the plantation — the Wee Tea Plantation, established in 2011 — for his family. Fortunately, when I show up to learn about Scotland’s first tea plantation,
Previous page: Some of the best tea in the world is being grown at Scotland’s Wee Tea Plantation. Above: Plantation manager Chris Henry offers a closer look at picked tea leaves.
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O’Braan welcomes me, knowing I’ve come only to learn his story, and not steal his secrets. I arrive in Scotland just as O’Braan is returning from a trip to New York City. His tea had just been added to the menu at The Lowell hotel in the Upper East Side — the first American establishment to serve his white and smoked white teas. Nicola Sturgeon, the Scottish First Minister, was at the reception with O’Braan. A gift box of single-estate Scottish tea was also presented to Bill and Hillary Clinton and Barack Obama. Not a bad start for a man who’s earned the nickname “Tetley Tam.”
Before launching his own plantation — which, it should be noted, is a quaint yard lined with rows of small, squat plants in a fenced area the size of a very large garden; the crops could easily be consumed by rabbits — O’Braan worked in food research, and one project involved increasing the level of antioxidants in green tea. When he agreed to take on that research, he struck up a conversation with Jamie Russell, a tea industry veteran and now the plantation’s tea blender. “There might have been a bottle of single malt scotch between us,” O’Braan admits. The idea was that they could grow tea on their home turf and sell it themselves. Though neighbours originally didn’t have much faith in an Irishman from England moving into their glen with a farfetched plan of growing tea, their tunes have changed, mostly because O’Braan, like his plants, is determined to thrive. O’Braan’s base and the plantation’s home is the Dalreoch Estate, which can only be reached by driving down a (very) winding road that is sandwiched between green hills studded with grazing sheep and old farm houses. I spend a warm, sunny morning following plantation manager Chris Henry around to learn the process of picking and smoking their white tea. “The weather is always like this in Scotland, you know,” Henry says with a sly grin about the clear skies on this perfect summer day. He insists on finding me a straw hat to wear while outdoors. Henry explains that the white and smoked white teas are carefully grown to produce tender, young leaves that are picked by hand and prized around the world for their delicate flavours, often compared to that of a peaty whisky. Only the top two leaves with the needle (or unopened bud) are picked for the white tea. Secondary leaves lower down the plant can be used for green or black tea. Once I get a closer look at the small plants and figure out how long it would take to search for and pluck only the most-prized leaves with the needle, I understand the high price for this coveted Scottish tea: £2,300 per kilogram. With a background that includes science, agriculture and chemistry, O’Braan studied ALL PHOTOS BY PAY CHEN
From top: A tasting at the Wee Tea Plantation; Tam O’Braan parses tea leaves; tiers of sweets pair well with Wee Tea’s white variety. Opposite: Rose petals float in a cup of Wee Tea’s smoked white during an afternoon tea service at Edinburgh’s Balmoral Hotel, the first establishment in the world to serve Scottish-grown tea to the public.
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the topography of the farm to determine the best growing conditions for the plants. A spring runs through the property, the tea grows on a slope for ideal drainage, and to encourage rapid growth of tender leaves, small guards are wrapped around the plants to control sun exposure. “White tea is the least adulterated of any tea,” O’Braan says. “It’s literally dried in the sun. By leaving the leaf to break down naturally, you have the lowest level of caffeine and probably the most subtle taste. It’s also the most pure taste of the terroir, the soil you’ve grown the tea in.” A shed-like small room with a large window is used to cold smoke baskets of dried tea leaves with local beech wood. Despite most peoples’ initial resistance to trying a smoked tea, the mild flavour has converted many; sales of the smoked white tea are three times as much as the unsmoked variety. O’Braan decides we will have a tea tasting that includes some blended tea from his other business, The Wee Tea Company, which he owns with two partners. The Wee Tea Company sells a variety of teas from around the world — including these Scottish teas — in several shops in the United Kingdom and via its own online store. I get my first taste of the freshest white tea, picked the day before and left to dry overnight. It’s light, delicate and pleasantly grassy. Leaning against the kitchen island in a tea-plantation owner’s home sipping the leaves plucked from the backyard is the most casual way to enjoy this high-end tea. The most luxurious means of experiencing the plantation’s
offerings at the iconic Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh, the first establishment in the world to serve a cup of Scottish-grown tea. So, I return my straw hat to O’Braan and Henry and head south to the city. Afternoon tea under the hotel’s Palm Court’s cathedral ceiling is truly a regal experience, an ideal match for O’Braan’s exquisite leaves. Wee Tea’s specialities can be sampled for £10 a pot as an add-on during a tea service. The smoked white arrives with savoury pastries and sandwiches, cucumber with crème fraiche, Scottish smoked salmon, and a cheese twister — puff pastry twisted with sharp Scottish cheddar, and buttery layers that pull apart with barely any effort. A dish of small rose petals is placed on the table first. I scatter a few in an empty teacup, and the steeped tea is poured over the petals, causing them to swell and float to the top. The petals add a hint of rose to the lightly smoked steamy cup. The white tea is served next and is offered with a lime wedge for the rim — “for the daring,” the menu advises. The lime adds a citrus twist to the mild, delicate tea, which pairs well with the afternoon’s sweeter offerings. Freshly baked scones are served with clotted cream and preserves, followed by a stunning selection of wee pastries: among them, a shooter of chilled pear smoothie, a tiny spoonful of strawberry mousse with a ginger crumble, and creamy chocolate ganache sandwiched between thin sheets of chocolate. It’s one thing to indulge in a luxe afternoon at the Balmoral, sipping on much-coveted local tea. It’s an altogether richer experience when you take into account that this year, O’Braan’s smoked white was given the Salon du Thé Gold Award, essentially marking it as the best tea in the world. O’Braan is currently working with other entrepreneurial growers in Scotland and there are now four plantations across the country producing different varieties for Wee Tea. By the end of 2015, O’Braan hopes that number will be up to 12. It won’t be long before the eyebrows of his neighbours — and others — cease to raise at the mention of a cup of homegrown Scottish tea. Turns out Tetley Tam was on to something.
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Y E N O M E TH
chet. a c y r ulina petite c p g a n r i y u w carr investing yo ly cessful
ARTEM RUMIANTSEV
Drake One Fifty injects some hip into a high-net worth corner of Toronto.
t seems like the perfect paradox: Financial districts, the supposed beating hearts of metropolises the world over — the very centres of power, influence and, arguably, tastemakers and trendsetters — become shells of a city once the clock hits 5 p.m. Power lunches and dinners abound during business hours, sure, but once the suits punch out for the day, a city is left with food wastelands. Or, at least, that’s how it used to be. Now, thanks to employees’ irregular hours and a crunch in real estate across urban centres, financial districts have gained a cultural cachet of sorts. No longer does every kitchen close up shop once the Cobb salads and tuna tartares have been played for the lunch rush. Instead, diners are increasingly thinking of financial districts as destinations, rather than last resorts. Herewith, a survey of the world’s hottest (and haute-est) financial districts for the culinary adventurous — no stock market experience required.
If you wanted to find a decent dinner past the closing bell of the TSX, you once had to be prepared to suffer through the inanities of bizcentric bistros like Reds or hope the expense account had enough left to cover the tab for dinner at Bymark. But thanks to an influx of condos in the city’s deepest downtown corridor — some still call it Bay Street or the Financial District, others the slightly less roll-off-the-tongue Southcore — residents are starting to stick around King and Bay for reasons that have nothing to do with fiduciary responsibility. Highlights include The Gabardine for bistro- like fare at reasonable prices; David Chang’s Momofuku outpost, complete with Milk Bar; and Richmond Station, perhaps the best restaurant to ever be situated next to an underground parking garage. Even Drake 34
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One Fifty, the first outpost of the eternally hip Queen West hotel and culture brand, plunked itself at the corner of Adelaide and York two years ago. “We noticed the resurgence of major downtown centres in cities, such as downtown L.A., where great brands like the Ace were taking big risks, both recognizing the turnaround cycles of demographic shifts and the architectural opportunities,” says Jessica Rodrigues, public relations manager for the Drake properties. “Many of the major restaurant pioneers were doing extremely well here, in redeveloped parts of New York, Chicago, London, England and even Detroit.” With the trend set, the Drake reached out to Martin Brudnizki, the renowned London-based designer, to help ensure its west- end vibe translated to a central downtown audience. “We captured the look and feel of
a historic brasserie and tavern that is inspired by several decades of modernism — a unique look for the financial district,” Rodrigues says, adding that the spot does “an above average” industry sales per square foot level. NEW YORK
A number of factors have led to a dining resurgence around Wall Street. First, the rebuilt One World Trade Center nearby has ushered in hordes of new media and publishing companies, including The New Yorker and Vogue — and these are not the type of people to settle for mere steak frites or truffle-topped cheeseburgers. Secondly, the city has been experiencing its own growing pains. Simply put,
COURTESY DRAKE ONE FIFTY
TORONTO
people need places to live, and the once undesirable area, at least in terms of day-to-day living and nightlife, is suddenly booming. Some sure bets in the area that prove the neighbourhood is now a miniboomtown: Look no further than Jungsik, a Korean restaurant in the old Chanterelle space on Harrison Street, which in addition to providing a nice alternative to boys’-club steakhouses ruled by investment bankers, also features two Michelin stars. Other must-tries include Blue Smoke, one of the first New York spots to playfully riff off the Southern-fried BBQ trend, and North End Grill, Danny Meyer’s Battery Park spot with Floyd Cardoz that almost singlehandedly redefines seafood.
SAN FRANCISCO
For a town littered with startups, venture capitalist firms and more high-moneyed financiers than you can shake a prospectus at, San Francisco’s financial district is woefully stuck in the 20th century. But, there is hope: As more up and-comers start populating the area alongside the likes of Wells Fargo, Charles Schwab and URS Corporation, the area bordering Kearny Street and the Embarcadero is starting to become more fashionably dressed down. For starters, there are blissful desserts to be found at Fleur De Sel and The Golden West, and midday treats at The Plant Cafe and The Chai Cart. But to truly see the area shake off its staid reputation, you must head to Pabu,
Michael Mina’s Japanese spot that boasts both delicious, if pricey, fish and some truly outrageous libations. “When the space became available, we were immediately interested,” says chef Mina. “The financial district has been a great neighbourhood for us — we know the area and clientele, so we knew we could be successful. It’s a testament to the success of our modern twist on the traditional izakaya, where business professionals come after work to have a few drinks before heading home.” And while San Francisco may have a whiff of hippy-dippy, that’s immediately shattered once you try Pabu’s Foie Fashioned, a glass of Nikka Coffey grain whisky that is cold-infused LA CARTE
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WHERE TO DINE ➽ TORONTO THE GABARDINE 372 Bay St., 647-352-3211, thegabardine.com MOMOFUKU 190 University Manhattanites are mad for Jungsik’s contempo Korean.
Ave., 3rd floor, 647-253-6224, momofuku.com/toronto/shoto DRAKE ONE FIFTY 150 York St., 416-363-6150, drakeonefifty.ca
➽ NEW YORK JUNGSIK 2 Harrison St., 212-219-0900, jungsik.kr BLUE SMOKE 255 Vesey St., 212-889-2005, bluesmoke.com NORTH END GRILL 104 North End Ave., 646-747-1600, northendgrillnyc.com
➽ SAN FRANCISCO FLEUR DE SEL 308 Kearny St., 415-956-5005, fleurdeselgourmet.com THE GOLDEN WEST 8 Trinity Alley, 415-216-6443,
Pabu’s innovative Japanese is a game changer for San Francisco.
theauwest.com THE PLANT CAFE 101 California St., 415-693-9730, 415-693-9732, theplantcafe.com THE CHAI CART
SINGAPORE
You may wonder why anyone was bemoaning the culinary fare in the Civic District, a hub designated as the central areas for government offices and moneyed types in this city-state. A decade or so ago, it may have not shone as brightly as it does today, but an influx of restaurants eager to match the hunger of nearby workers has made the area around City Hall MRT Station a dining destination. For fans of old-money favourites, Raffles Grill is one of Singapore’s most celebrated res36
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to empires. “No grand hotel is complete without a formal dining room, and that is where Raffles Grill takes pride of place,” says Gladys Ng, assistant director of marketing communications for Raffles Singapore. “Equally remarkable is our wine collection, containing outstanding vintages from less renowned winemakers, in addition to noteworthy ones.” For more innovative tastes, head to either Jaan — located on the 70th floor of the Swissôtel The Stamford — for fresh langoustine and pigeon, or Victor’s Kitchen, which rightfully claims to have the top custard buns in all of Singapore. Get there early for the lunch rush.
545 Market St., thechaicart.com
➽ SINGAPORE RAFFLES GRILL 1 Beach Rd., +65 6412 1816, raffles.com/ singapore/dining/rafflesgrill JAAN Level 70, Equinox Complex, Swissôtel The Stamford, 2 Stamford Rd., +65 6837 3322, jaan.com.sg VICTOR’S KITCHEN 91 Bencoolen St., #01-49 Sunshine Plaza, +65 9838 2851, victors-kitchen.com
COURTESY JUNGSIK (TOP); COURTESY PABU (BOTTOM)
with the rendered fat of fois gras. Yes, you read that right.
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COVET PHOTO ALBUM
KEEPING IT ALL IN THE FAMILY with owners retiring and no one to take the helm, small-town chinese restaurants are at a crossroads. photographer Connie Tsang is chronicling their evolution By Maryam siddiqi
I
n 2007, the parents of Connie Tsang told her they were selling Sunshine Restaurant, the family business in Straffordville, Ont., that Tsang had grown up in. “I was living in Vancouver, and my parents were in their 70s and ready to finally leave the restaurant business for good after 40 years. A small diner and attached living quarters flanked by corn fields in a sleepy town of 400, I wasn’t convinced the restaurant would sell. So when my mom casually dropped the bomb, saying they sold the restaurant, I was floored and panicked. I booked a ticket home from Vancouver and made it a personal mission to photograph the restaurant and my parents at work in the final months of their business. It was kind of like a ‘You don’t know what you got ’til it’s gone’ moment,” she explains. That moment is happening in small towns across Canada as aging Chinese -Canadian entrepreneurs are retiring from running their restaurants but don’t have anyone to pass the legacies on to. Spurred by her own experience, Tsang launched Asia X Canada: The Momand-Pop Food Stops, a project for which she is photographing and documenting Chinese- run diners across Canada, with a particular interest in those found in small towns. “Our Chinese restaurant story was part of the grander Canadian experience,” she says. “To move to a foreign country where you don’t completely fit into the landscape is difficult.
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Serving up lunches to locals at Chenpapa’s Asian Foods in the Halifax Seaport Market.
People love food. People had a huge thing for Chinese food, and to an extent, still do. And to come up with something original in a small town or small community where there isn’t much competition? Instant success.” To date, Tsang has photographed her family restaurant, Concourse Restaurant in Toronto, Dragon Garden in Prescott, Ont., and Chenpapa’s Asian Foods in the Halifax Seaport Market. She is currently searching for other locations across Canada. “The people I’ve photographed so far have been very open and wonderful, but in general, it’s a really tough community to crack,” she says. “I kind of knew this from the start, so I foresee this project going on for a long time. I don’t mind, though. When I find a great subject, I feel like I’ve hit the jackpot. And it could be interesting to document the changing face of the community over the years.” Part of that change is seeing ownership of these restaurants being taken over by another community: “I hear in places like the Prairies, a lot of the Chinese restaurants are being taken over by Koreans,” Tsang explains. “I’m curious about that. I’m quite certain they’d still be preparing Chinese-Canadian fare, given Korean food is probably still a bit too exotic for the small-town Canadian palate.” In her work, Tsang has noticed that, like her parents’ establishment, many of these restaurants have changed little in the past four decades — and despite shifting consumer tastes and market demands, she expects many restaurants will stubbornly remain the same. “There’s real pride in creating something, and to change sometimes is to admit you did something wrong,” she says. “I find these owners tend to be pretty resourceful, adaptable, and often make do with what they have, which is probably why, even if business has gone down, they’ll continue doing what they’ve done their entire lives.” For more on Connie Tsang’s Asia X Canada project, visit connietsangphotos.com.
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Cutline her elonrepain psdin odleraer m utline her elonrepain psdin odleraer mgasnu ;rea;sidn mmagsdn aern gasnu ;reasidn mmagsdn aern
Top, left and right: The Tsang family’s final days at Sunshine Restaurant in Straffordville. Above: Tcotchkes at Toronto’s Concourse Restaurant; hands at work in the kitchen at Dragon Garden in Prescott. Left: Downtime at Concourse Restaurant.
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COVET SHOP
JALI (LATTICE) TRAY, $259 Handmade by Kabul native and jali master Masoud Abdul Baqi, this walnut tray is inspired by the wooden jali screens that traditionally replace windows in old Afghani homes.
PULP BOWL, FROM $95 Made from recycled newspaper and garnished with gold paint, this handmade decorative bowl is created by Quazi Designs, a Swaziland-based workshop that creates jewellery and home decor items from paper.
BRING THE BAZAAR HOME
From Mexico to Morocco, Afghanistan to South Sudan, Far and Wide Collective supports local artisans by providing a means of bringing their handcrafted goods to the world. At the same time, it assures souvenir hunters that the wares they are buying are authentic, ethically made and fairly traded. La Carte is proud to partner with Far and Wide to support these artisans and their communities. Click here to shop for these and other pieces from the current collection. For once, you won’t have to ask yourself, “How am I going to get this in my suitcase?”
STRIPED BASKET, $169 Handwoven from sisal fibres and adorned with signature Kenyan colours, this is the work of the Kasigau Weavers, a collective of 30 women who rely on weaving projects to replace income lost to damaged crops from elephants migrating to Tsavo East National Park. Each basket is one of a kind. 42
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STRIPED POMPOM BLANKET, $275 Made by Maslouhi, a group of women in Tameslouht, Morocco, who specialize in ]embroidery, sewing and crochet, this blanket, traditionally used in the High Atlas Mountains, is woven from 100 per cent handspun wool.
WATERBUFFALO CLUTCH, $226 Pink water buffaloes! This clutch, a handembroidered cotton front with leather handle and back, is made by women in central Chitral, in northern Pakistan, a place where work outside the home is hard to come by.
COURTESY SAVIOUR SNACKS
COVET WANTED
NOW, THIS IS AIRPLANE FOOD Eating healthily while on the road is an ambitious task — airports and train stations the world over are filled with walls of refined flour and sugar in various forms. What’s a traveller to do when all he or she wants is a piece of fruit or some unsalted nuts to snack on? Things get more challenging when sitting in a plane. Often, passengers are given options of only chips, chocolate or soggy toasted sandwiches. Fortunately — and finally — London-based Saviour Snacks is coming to the rescue. Available on private-jet company Globe Air and due to appear on in-flight menus of more airlines in the coming months (the company recently had a contract with EasyJet; we hope it’s renewed ASAP), Saviour Snacks’ individual snack boxes are comprised of six different sweet
and savoury eats, each selected by a nutritionist and each less than 150 calories. And, all of the snacks on offer are free of artificial additives, colours and preservatives, high-fructose corn syrup, MSG and trans fats. Nakd (cereal bars), Bounce (protein balls) and Kallo (rice cakes) are some of the brands found in the snack boxes, and each box comes with a nutritional write up indicating which snacks are meant for which diets (vegetarian, gluten-free, nut-free, etc.). Best of all, these items are all travel size, so if you’re not sharing the box with a companion, the snacks can be tossed in your carry-on for later during your trip. Imagine, healthy food on a plane! Flying is about to feel a whole lot better. savioursnacks.com £4.50/€5
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LIKE WHAT YOU’RE SEEING? Don’t miss La Carte’s next issue in which we explore the coolest and chicest in luxury travel, including: • First-class travel experiences for your pets • Luxe Miami, old school vs new school • The story of a South African winemaker who’s
taking personalization to the next level
COMING DECEMBER
STEVEN HUNG
2015