past masters | secondhand but not second best
’80s costume jewellery Big, extravert, “look at me” designer pieces from the era of conspicuous consumption are soaring in value, says Lucie Greene.
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old statement jewellery of the Dynasty era has come out of the cold to become one of today’s hottest commodities as fashion lovers flock to scoop up designer 1980s statement pieces by the likes of Chanel, Céline, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Moschino. The boom-time era of the 1980s saw the emergence of luxury megabrands and style icons such as Sheena Easton, Iman and Joan Collins, who favoured power dressing over delicacy. “It was all about being big and bold,” says Stephen Philips, co-founder of vintage boutique Rellik. “Major fashion houses started creating ever-larger pieces covered in logos and gold. Everyone wanted to show power and money, and there was no point in having a dainty charm around your neck to do that.” And now, says Judith Miller, founder of Miller’s antiques guides, “There’s a renewed appreciation for the integrity of jewellery design from the period, and it’s being reflected in prices.” Indeed, according to vintage costume jewellery collector and dealer Susan Caplan, prices of Chanel pieces from the period have increased 100 per cent over the past three years, with other designer pieces making similar gains. High-quality examples now run from £350 for a pair of branded Dior or Yves Saint Laurent earrings to £1,000 for a Chanel charm bracelet. And at Matches in London, a pair of 1980s Chanel gold globe earrings decorated in “Rue du Gambon” labelling cost £750, while Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Kenneth Jay Lane gold necklaces are priced
Kenneth Jay Lane faux pearl necklace, sold for £459 by Susan Caplan Vintage.
between £500 and £700. Auction prices are also buoyant: a chunky gilt 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche necklace with gems recently fetched £1,320 at Kerry Taylor Auctions. The look is characterised by yellow gold and logos. Necklaces are large pendants, earrings usually clip-on and generous, and charm bracelets bold and oversized. “Anything statement goes,” says Caplan, who launched her vintage costume jewellery company two years ago and is now the UK market leader. Demand is largely driven by people seeking “Anything by Chanel 1980s jewellery: “Over the past few years it has with Gripoix pearls is exploded and pieces sell worth investing in.” instantly.” Recent sales include a Kenneth Jay Lane faux pearl necklace with panther detail embellished with pavé-set diamanté (£459), a Chanel collections. Amid this, embossed pendant with interlocking the original pieces “CC” logo (£1,250) and a “CC” bangle have gained real (£1,000). Another Chanel piece, a latekudos. “They’ve 1980s Chanel medallion decorated in become the fashion coloured Gripoix pearls for £285, along items for instant with a pair of gold earrings with pearl cool,” says Decades droplets for £150, was recently sold by owner Cameron Silver. Stephen Philips at Rellik. Another aspect of the Costume pieces were an easy way appeal is the quality. Where many for women to buy in to their favourite fashion houses are recreating the 1980s status brands and became money aesthetic in their current collections, spinners for fashion houses, which fashion lovers are turning to the vintage released season after season of bigger versions for true cachet and superior and brasher trinkets. The trend came to craftsmanship. “The costume jewellery an end with the 1990s recession, when back then was incredibly well made; it gold logo pieces were soon viewed as felt almost like fine jewellery. The outré, but the past couple of years have Gripoix pearls used by Chanel look seen a renaissance for the aesthetic almost exactly like real ones,” says Silver. as fashion continues to embrace the These designs can transcend the 1980s. Prominent luxury vintage season, says life coach Maxine Jaffa, boutiques started stocking the whose own collection includes 1980s decade’s jewellery, and now Chanel earrings and a classic oversize pieces are availabe at most key pendant. “I don’t shop seasonally for upscale vintage stores. Recent fashion any more. I’m more interested offerings at Resurrection in Los in buying key pieces that will last season Angeles include a large linked on season – and that’s why I love vintage Chanel bracelet covered in coins costume jewellery,” she explains. “You for $1,400, alongside gold clip-on can wear it with contemporary clothing Chanel pearl earrings with logo and it still looks fresh.” droplets at $395. Simultaneously, Another fan is Kate Schelter, owner fashion houses from Yves Saint Laurent of a branding and fashion consultancy. to Versace are referencing the 1980s “It started with my mother’s 1980s cliplook in their current costume jewellery on earrings, and I still have pieces she
Clockwise from above: Yves Saint Laurent necklace, £1,320, and Chanel Gripoix earrings, £1,140 with a matching necklace, both sold by Kerry Taylor Auctions. Chanel Letter Tassel earrings, sourced by Susan Caplan, sold for £498 at Matches.
wore,” she says. “I have since bought some amazing YSL gold pinwheel earrings with enamel, a gold Les Bernard necklace and some Forte spherical droplet earrings, all from the 1980s. Costume jewellery was so well made then, so solid. It was door-knocker jewellery; nothing delicate about it.” Next Schelter is looking for YSL gold heart-motif pieces from the period. “His heart designs from that time are quite rare – they look almost hand-drawn.” While most 1980s costume jewellery is not rare, it is often hard to buy in good condition, and buyers should also beware of fakes. “Always look for the signature,” advises Caplan. “Chanel pieces, for example, carry a stamp of authenticity.” Runway pieces from couture collections are the rarest of all, and Silver adds that “anything by Chanel with the original Gripoix pearls is worth investing in”. Very Vintage has a Chanel single-strand pearl necklace with Gripoix clasp for $800 and a gold Chanel cross-shaped pin with Gripoix decoration at $475. Branding defines the 1980s look, so buying a piece by a major designer is key. Connoisseurs have also started to appreciate more unusual pieces, such as early Karl Lagerfeld designs under his own name. A gold-toned enamel charm bracelet with oversized “KL” logo charms and black resin inserts was recently priced at £275 by Susan Caplan. Across the board the resounding expert opinion is clear: good examples of 1980s costume jewellery are increasing in value, and selling fast. As Caplan says, “If you like a piece, buy it. Quickly.” ✦
WHERE TO BUY Decades, 8214 1/2 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046 (+1323-655 0223; www.decadesinc.com). Kerry Taylor Auctions, 020-8676 4600; www.kerrytaylorauctions.com. matches, 60-64 Ledbury Road, London W11 (020-7221 0255; www.MatchesFashion.com). Rellik, 8 Golborne Road, London W10 (020-8962 0089; www.relliklondon.co.uk). Resurrection, 8006 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046 (+1323-651 5516; www.resurrectionvintage.com). Susan Caplan Vintage, 020-7691 0540; see www.susancaplan.co.uk for stockists. very vintage, www.veryvintage.com. WHat to read Costume Jewellery by Judith Miller (Miller’s/octopus publishing, published October 3 2010, £25). miller’s antiques guide, www.judithmillerantiquesguide.com.
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WEB EDIT CELINE
MOSCHINO
1980s Moschino charm bracelet sourced by Susan Caplan Vintage, £325, at Asos.com.
1980s Céline collar necklace sourced by Susan Caplan Vintage, which sold recently for £1,794 on Asos.com.
CHANEL Gripoix pearls
1980s Chanel Gripoix pearl necklace, sold for £840 by Kerry Taylor Auctions.
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