Issue #2
embracing change
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Welcome to issue 2, hopefully stimulating your senses with our monthly splash of original art, inspirational people and thought-provoking articles. The social and economic future is even more clouded than last month but as you will see from our cover theme, we’re encouraging everyone to adopt a more determined and proactive attitude to the future. Let’s push through the deluge of negativity media, disinformation and effects of our Clown Car Government by looking ahead to what we can achieve collectively. In this months issue we look at the real anger and frustration that everyone is feeling. We chat to the inspirational guys at Ethicul and talk to Loui Blake about his new Brighton restaurant, Erpingham House, both of which endeavour to bring together like minded suppliers and consumers to reduce their environmental impact whilst having a great time. In a month where inclusion and diversity are usually on show in Brighton, there’s articles which are never far from Brightonians thoughts – pride and Sex. We showcase more visually stimulating artists like Louis Masai and Bordallo II, introduce you to more sustainable fashion heroes, along with great places to eat and visit in Brighton. We also delve into the global issue of Modern Slavery and explore the viability of Universal Basic Income, which really could change everything! If anything, this edition has been harder than the first because of the uncertainty and fear now manifest around us. COVID-19 and its resultant effects continue to impact us all daily, but by coming together through a collective responsibility to do better, by refusing to be kowtowed or dismissed, we can all build for what comes next in a more viable way. So, enjoy this months offer and if there’s something that strikes a chord or inspires you to get involved, give us a shout out on social media or contact us through the website.
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Onward…
Christina Andrews Founder of Kula Mag
THE TEAM
WELCOME TO KULA MAG!
_ Christina Andrews Editor & Creative Director _ Mark Avery Editor _ Sharna Waid Media _ Meredith Cairns-palmer Marketing _ Libby Wells Marketing _ Sara Gennat Graphic Design
Get Involved: info@kulamag.com www.kulamag.com @kula_mag
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CONTRIBUTORS: _ How Funny Designs _ J Taylor _ Maté Jarai _ Melcher Oosterman _ Massi Marzucco _ Four Faced Illustrations _ Kathryn Rose Brown _ Lauren Cowley _ Mike Dicks _ Bordalo II _ Louis Masai _ Breaking The Distance _ Not So Sloppy _ Fanfare Label _ All About Audrey _ Sustainable Squad _ Ethicul _ Erpingham House _ Loui Blake _ Vurger _ Gems Wholeseome Kitchen _ Gung-Ho
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JULY 2020 — ISSUE #2
GLOBAL
20. #youmeuswe - Pride 2020
23. Why Is Everyone So F*cking An 26. Why UBI Makes Perfect Sense, Pandemic Or Not!
ART
12. Bordalo II
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40. Sustainable Sex Sells
FEATURES
10. Is Art Imitating Life Or Influencing It?
16. Louis Masai
LO 42. Ethicul
43. Erpingh 46. Vurger
FOOD + DRINK 48. Gems Wholesome Kitchen 49. Sunshine Smoothie 50. Rainbow Rolls 51. Tofu Kebabs 52. Gung-Ho 53. Lavender Spritz
OCAL
FASHION
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28. Who Made Your Clothes
32. Fanfare Label 35. All About Audrey
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42. Market Research
ham House + Loui Blake
Call to Arms Ok people, now you’ve read through our first two editions, we’re hoping some of it struck a chord within you, some of the stories or the people we’ve highlighted have inspired you to get involved and help make a difference. You may already be doing something amazing, or perhaps working towards reducing your impact on the environment in small incremental ways, you may just want to make changes in your life or in your business; well if that’s the case we want to hear from you. We’re a small, dedicated and passionate team who need your help. Whether that’s help telling these inspirational stories, creating content and imagery or joining us in events and webcasts to spread the word and inspire others to take up the Kula climate challenge. We really want to hear what you think, bring your ideas and enthusiasm to the team and collaborate in bringing together like minded individuals into a community for change which is the Kula family. A family who love to showcase what’s being done well to improve our environment, our wellbeing and the future of our planet but are not afraid of exposing those who work against these goals. To get involved, make contact through our website at Kulamag.com or message us through Insta or FB where you’ll also see upcoming plans and events.
SEE YOU SOON
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Get Involved: info@kulamag.com www.kulamag.com @kula_mag
SUSTAINABLE
CHANGE IS A
TEAM
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IS ART IMITATING LIFE OR INFLUENCING IT? Written by J Taylor
Humanity’s impact on the environment is evident in the very first drawings 64,000 years ago and as sustainable culture moves into frame, can art finally help us see the bigger picture?
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Depictions of flora, fauna and hunting painted on cave walls document our existence with nature as far back as the last Ice Age. Ironic then that as we hurtle towards a self-imposed climate crisis, art is once again poised to illustrate our relationship with the earth and its other inhabitants. Well the ones we haven’t already killed off that is! Art ’s relationship with sustainability and environmental activism is confusing. Sustainable movements decry the wasteful use of oilbased paints, galleries binning artworks and carbon footprint of exhibitions and their fossil-fuel funded benefactors. However, on the flipside the awareness raised by powerful, provocative and timeless works of art can have more impact
on the global consciousness than any politician or protest. Was Olafur Eliasson’s Ice Watch a wakeup call for all who saw it, or a frivolous waste of carbon to transport 30 icebergs from Greenland to London? Eliasson has made a huge impact, his recent In Real Life retrospective at Tate Modern brought glacial melting and our interconnection with nature into...well, real life. His Weather Project drew more than two million people to the Turbine Hall in 2003 but are people truly taking on the messaging or are they fake sunbathing on a day trip to London before an obligatory Nandos? Commenting on the value of arts and culture on our future, Arts Council England states: "When we talk about the value of arts and culture to society, we always start with its intrinsic value: how arts and culture can illuminate our inner lives and enrich our emotional world.
"However, we also understand that arts and culture has a wider, more measurable impact on our economy, health and wellbeing, society and education. It’s important we also recognise this impact to help people think of our arts and culture for what they are: a strategic national resource." Looking at it this way, with humanity’s footprint on the earth being one of the greatest threats ever faced, arts and culture are now a strategic international resource. The art world’s environmental focus needs to be front and centre to ensure the widest
‘measurable impact’ and that’s where sustainable art comes in. Sustainable art understands the wider impact of the work and its reception in relation to its environment, be they social, economic, biophysical, historical, or cultural. It is a growing movement using visual impact, education and awareness of resources to ensure that every picture does indeed tell a story. Artists combining narrative action with emotion are growing in number and most importantly, in impact. Portuguese-born Artur Bordalo, aka Bordalo II, has created vital and provocative works utilising 62 tons of reused materials since 2012 conjuring up giant trash animals with unusual and unique raw materials across the globe. These works not
only force us to confront our colossal waste but also its impact. With so much focus on fast-fashion Bordalo’s approach is pushing the envelope for sustainable artists to say no to ‘fastart’, instead using recycled paints, canvases, materials and even waste products in their works. Art is well documented as providing a window into the world, allowing a deeper knowledge and empathic understanding of nature than any biology book can ever dream of. Sustainable artists today are allowing us to interact, engage and understand our impact on the natural world like never before. Natalie Jeremijenko’s Amphibious Architecture installation allowed New Yorkers to experience the diverse ecosystems under the
@louismasai
Public art itself has also transformed in 2020 as visual content for Instagram and other platforms play a huge part in environmentalism,
Whether it’s conversations with fish, ‘garbage’ art or even thawing ice sounds used to make lo-fi beats, our relationship with nature is at the heart of culture and change. Who knows if art can help us shift the climate crisis, solve racism and lead us to become a more sustainable species? But if so, maybe in a few millennia’s time future generations will look back at our art as we look back at neanderthalic cave drawings and discover we didn’t paint ourselves into a climate corner. Ars longa, vita brevis!
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@b0rdalo_ii
Masai’s intuitive blend of natural world and 21st century society has resulted in powerful works such as ‘Conservation - Conversation’. The series documents critically endangered species painted directly onto reclaimed zoo animal travel enclosures, and 3D patchwork trophy heads (fauxdermy) questioning the conflicts of what conservation can be. The conversation allows for the exploration of how one views the position both trophy hunting and zoos have in our modern day conservation. Both of which contribute "vast" amounts of money to the protection of the species in the wild. This is something that troubles the artist and one he openly explores as a way to evaluate public opinion on the matter.
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East River through data, coding and SMS texts with their underwater neighbours. The artist continues to work with nature highlighting what she describes as a “crisis of agency” for humanity to interact with its neighbouring species. Her subsequent work, including a ‘mussel choir’, only further her focus on public art which engenders “collective action and measurable environmental gain.”
Black Lives Matter and other societal issues. A powerful illustration, piece of graffiti or work of art can now travel the globe, ensuring a lasting focus on the issue and providing a vital emblem. UK-based artist Louis Masai is a key proponent in vibrant imagery, environmental subject matter and human references being combined with online technology to reach the widest possible audience and truly make a difference. “My recent documentation of endangered creatures and raising of awareness of statistics has on occasion been associated with activism,” he explained. “I find this a bit daunting as I only see myself as an artist but I definitely see the power of visual language and I’m enjoying using that power via my murals and the modern world of social networking.”
Written by Sharna Waid
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Artur Bordalo, better known as Bordalo II, is a progressive Portuguese street artist and sculptor providing awareness of ecological destruction through his beautifully profound large-scale animal street sculptures made entirely of disposed waste products. As well as Brighton, Bordalo’s work spans across the globe and has become one of the most iconic street art activists of our time. Inspired by his grandfather Real Bordalo’s artistic legacy, Bordalo’s early interactions with art consisted of oil painting and watercolours, mixed with a fascination for the adventures around illegal graffiti in Lisbon’s underworld. During his time at the Faculty of Fine Arts in Lisbon, Bordalo went on to discover the craft of sculpture and ceramics, but after three years, his focus on street art enabled him to create his most recognisable work to date - Big Trash Animals.
Bordalo’s Big Trash Animals series revolves around the representation of animals on a large scale, built almost exclusively with garbage (as Bordalo says, the same material that kills them), to remind audiences about how pollution affects the natural world. Some of the end-oflife materials found in wastelands, abandoned factories or just randomly have included damaged bumpers, burnt garbage cans, tyres and household appliances. Since 2012, Bordalo has used around
62 tons of reused materials for his 88 pieces across three continents and 18 countries, including the UK, Germany, Brazil, Norway, United States, Switzerland, Italy and Poland. The Big Trash Animals series started with the Neutral Subseries, which are characterised by the total camouflage of the objects that compose them and the use of colours closer to the subtleties found in nature. Bordalo then went on to explore reused plastics dispensed
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partly in paint in the Half Half Subseries, where animals only have half of their camouflage: one side realistic and the other devoid of ink. In his Plastic Subseries, the sculptures lose their camouflage completely to display only the natural colors of plastics and other discarded objects, used as the raw material. Bordalo’s most recent work took his sculptures to the ocean in The Floating series, where ocean plastic waste was used to create a series of large scale marine animals floating in water.
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We caught up with the Lisbon based artist to find out more about his inspirational processes behind Big Trash Animals and the important message he wants to leave behind with his work:
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Don’t buy without necessity; Respect nature; Follow the R’s! Brighton is also blessed to have Bordelo’s iconic work here in the city - a commissioned project for FatBoy Slim’s Big Beach Café. Bordalo took two days to build the beautiful seagull sculpture, made out of Brighton’s trash and plastics collected by the city’s bin men and stored in the DJ’s garage. Only one side is painted, and the other half is exposed so you can see what the sculpture is made of, which now proudly stands as a wonderful tourist attraction to the city. Fast forward to 2020, and now Bordalo is supporting a
campaign entitled “Solidarity is not on lockdown”, launched by Portuguese refugee support platform Humans Before Borders. This campaign aims to raise funds to support 5 grassroots medical NGOs working in the refugee camps of Lesvos in strengthening the response to emerging needs in the face of the current pandemic. As a way of giving his contribution, Bordalo has created a unique and original artwork entitled “Young Black Panther”, from the series of works “Small Trash Animals”, which is being auctioned online by Cabral Moncada Leilões.
Bordelo’s central themes include the excessive production and greedy materialistic consumption of stuff, which results in the continuous production of waste and consequently in the destruction of the Planet. His profound and beautiful creations question the relationship we have with wildlife and his work acts as a form of powerful art activism in an attempt to raise attention to the global problems humanity is facing today.
What inspired the transition from underground graffiti to environmentally led artist? I was always interested in animals and nature since I was a kid. With that came the environmental concern. Since I remember, I’ve been taught about recycling and the importance of our actions and that one day the earth would heat up and all animals would be affected by ocean level risings and global warming in general. So, once I had the opportunity to raise awareness through my art, I chose the thematics, materials and ways of doing it very carefully, to be able to pass the right intention through my artistic expression. Where did the idea of using ‘garbage’ as a material to create art with come from? It was a natural process. I began making experiences with garbage, exploring various themes and compositions. In 2013 I made the first Big Trash Animal! Where is all the garbage sourced from when you visit each new city? Do you have the type of pieces you want in mind when collecting the garbage or do you just work with whatever is available? It depends on the project and how production rolls. If we do all of it in the studio, we have deals with entities that source garbage and we can go and pick it up. If the production is in-site, we try to replicate the same process in the various cities. It is interesting to get to know how garbage management works in other places and even more interesting to adapt to the local materials.
What message do you hope to get across from your work? The importance of fighting excessive consumerism, materialism and the huge amount of waste that comes from both. I hope to raise awareness to the urgent environmental issues we are all going through and to the finite natural resources of our planet, that are essential to our and the animals lives. What advice to you have for our readers who are aspiring to live a more environmentally conscious lifestyle? Don’t buy without necessity; Respect nature; Follow the R’s! As an artist who works in public spaces how have you coped with the lockdown period and have you been working on any new projects? Lockdown has led me to do a series of ephemeral works. The Provocative series has started years ago and the works included in this series are very direct to the point and heavy in meaning. This subject, of Covid-19, the lockdown, everything around it was a source for ideas and I’ve managed to make some of them a reality during this period.
Bordalo II @b0rdalo_ii www.bordaloii.com
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From sketch to large scale mural - talk us through the process of creating these trash animals? The process is very organic and fluid. I start with a reference image of the animal I want to represent, work it a little bit more sketching over the reference picture and work with my team on cutting plastic shapes to add layers of
shape and colour, freestyling until I am happy with the artwork.
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@louismasai - British Bumble Bee in Taunton for Somerset
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‘Art, music and podcasts w the world, but they could people to see the widest p London-based artist Louis Masai is best known for his paintings and murals, which gave him his foundations in the contemporary art world, but in recent years he has moved towards installations and 3D sculpture work. In spite of his vast and impressive murals that can be seen all over the world, he does not consider himself a street artist. His background is in fine art, and he spends more time in the studio than in public spheres. Like all true artists, regardless of how he works, he maintains a distinct visual style. He works in bright colour, creating patchwork animals of all species, from the sloth to the elephant. But most crucially, regardless of his chosen medium, the core of his work is his message: one of environmental reflection.
Louis aims to engage audiences with his artwork, to ask questions with his ‘visual language’, highlighting endangered species, species equality and environmental factors such as climate change. His recent installation series focuses on the farming industry. Many of these ideas connect to the terrifying issue at the heart of it all, that of the 6th mass extinction and the collapse of biodiversity, an issue that we should all shift towards the forefront of our minds . Louis himself states that the ecological issues facing mankind are perhaps the greatest yet, and that it is our duty to address them. To this end, in 2017 he spread his reach even further, by starting the All Fruits Ripe Podcast with Adam Hylu of Unit 137, in which they speak to experts on
environmental and eco present the cold hard tru It is clear why Louis h environmental activist he personally feels unco label. He still considers and foremost, but with we have seen these ele power to become one
We can ignore facts and a giant technicoloured and coral reef on the sid grab our attention.
Masai maintains that a encourage people to s but that it won’t change could. I think it might.
Written by Maté Jarai
won’t change d help encourage picture.’
@louismasai - Anatomic African Penguin - Missing solo show
“ It’s impossible to research extinction and not understand the word ‘biodiversity’. Once you understand that word you know that we are all a part of this planet.”
ological issues, and uth to their listeners. has been called an at times, although omfortable with this himself an artist first h all that’s going on, ements possess the and the same.
art has the power to see a wider picture, e the world. I think it
@nikakramer - Berlin for Urban Nation Museum residency
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What inspired you to start using your art as a catalyst for raising awareness of issues such as climate change and endangered species? My other passion besides art is nature, plants and animals. I have always been fascinated by the wonders of nature, its colours, shapes, and sassiness. So it was kind of an obvious direction for my art. After a number of years just painting without intention or story, I tuned towards this idea that painting could be a voice for the voiceless. I wondered why species that were endangered when I was 5, were even more endangered today than ever before. It upset me, and I wondered if anyone else was bothered by it. Once that first painting went up with a sense of purpose, a call to action so to speak, it sparked a new chapter in my career, but also my very existence as a being.
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It's impossible to research extinction and not understand the word ‘biodiversity’. Once you understand that word you know that we are all a part of this planet. In my case, in order to release the burden of guilt, it makes sense to get involved in a better functioning biodiversity. It goes full circle for me. I'm wowed by nature. Researching and painting these species has made me more conscious as a consumer, and more conscious of the fact that I am a cog in the ‘biodiversity’ machine. Every day is a learning curve. I don't ever intend to pretend I'm perfect, but I am always improving. A lot of your artwork focuses on animals. Why particularly this subject matter? Currently it’s animals due to the fact that animals have always been my most direct point of interest, but I'm starting to paint more plants too, and that will only increase. Right now, the audience is still tuned into
the animals and it’s tough to find the time or opportunity to redirect the subject matter of my work, but it’s happening slowly.
@louismasai - spider monkey - waterford - Ireland
Do you find it hard to get across the intended message through your artwork? Talk us through the process of creating the concepts. At the end of the day my work is art. It doesn't have to be anything more than that. If people can see something more in my work, and find the deeper meaning in what I am doing, then that's amazing. Let's not forget that we are still a ‘majority society’ that sees a pig as a sausage and not an animal, deserving of the right to life. My point is that people will always see what they want to see. It's hard enough getting a painting right, so to then get a politically charged environmental message across as well, in a way that resonates with people, creates another level of complications. That said, I think that I'm widely known for my subject matter and the story that comes with it, so when people see my work they will often accept that there is an added value and meaning to it. This is of course clarified in my social media posts on instagram, in interviews, and on my podcast. Sometimes I will also write messages on the walls with the paintings, and then inside the patchwork of the paintings themselves, there are 100s of mini paintings. These tell stories of their own. For example, there are chain saws painted within the patchwork of the sloth. I also painted the mural at ZSL (London Zoo) to highlight that their habitat is being removed by the logging industry. Sometimes I also work with NGO’S or charitable environmental businesses, and they further support the art with media based PR and comms.
@louismasai - Three Toed Pygmy Sloth with EDGE - Lond Zoo, and Synchronicity Earth
As I mentioned before, the patches also give me the opportunity to tell a hundred stories within the story, and this is a viable approach
to getting a more rounded story across. From a personal perspective, the patches allow me the opportunity to engage in all my personal artistic interests, such as comics, cartoons, fabric patterns, flora, colour and geometry. What do you hope to achieve from your work? Every project has a different objective, but ultimately, I'd like for humans to be more compassionate, to be more reflective and accepting of all species.Wouldn't it be wonderful if biodiversity was allowed to function efficiently again? In our previous issue we discussed the rise of eco/climate anxiety. What advice would you give to our readers who are looking to live a more eco conscious lifestyle? This is tough. I think right now people have anxieties about everything, every colour of the rainbow. Climate anxiety is just a new addition and it's due to media attention. Whatever the media hypes up, infiltrates anxiety. I'd say we are all pretty pandemic and virus anxious right now too.
“ Modern human society is consumerist and very wasteful. For me, the juxtaposition of patchwork, a forgotten human process, and the endangered species, is really fascinating.”
As for advice on how to deal with anxiety, I think that if you know what's causing it, you’ve reached a huge milestone. Once you identify the cause of the imbalance, you can start to work on ways of removing the anguish. Regarding climate anxiety specifically, there are so many ways to be kinder to the planet. Buy and consume more consciously. Don't buy unsustainable products, like sugar, palm, corn, soy, cotton, and almonds. The list goes on. When your shopping, look for the words ‘rainforest alliance’, ‘organic’, ‘round table alliance’ and ‘no GMO’ on the labels of what you buy. These labels mean that the companies who produced them actually give a shit about the biodiversity of the product’s origin. Set yourself monthly goals. Don't try to do it all at once. Try removing plastic for a month. Switch your diet up. A plant-based diet will have a huge benefit to you and the planet, and moreover the animal isn't being murdered. It’s a win, win. To be honest, it's all about what you spend your money on. Don't fund a company that is reducing your chances of existence.
Ckeck out more on Louis Masai, including his podcast and videos at: www.louismasai.com @louismasai
@louismasai - African Hunting Dog - Conservation Conversation solo show Paris Next Street Gallery
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don
What’s the meaning behind the patchwork signature style of your murals? Patchwork is amazing. It’s resourceful, colourful, functional and global, but it's also something from a bygone time. Modern human society is consumerist and very wasteful. For me, the juxtaposition of patchwork, a forgotten human process, and the endangered species, is really fascinating.
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Written by Tash T Co-founder of @breakingthedistance Illustrated by Four Faced Illustrations
Do you remember January 1st 2020? The day you set out all your dreams, expectations and goals for this year … “This is year is mine! 2020 here I come!” Fast forward 3 months and we find ourselves fearing for our jobs, stuck inside binge watching Netflix and attempting to bake our way out of boredom. However, could there be a silver lining to COVID-19? Yes, you read correctly, a silver lining. During these past 6 months we have witnessed thousands of annual events and traditions being cancelled due to Corona. Forcing us to use our imagination in order to invent new and imaginative ways to celebrate. One of the largest examples of this has been Pride 2020. Traditionally celebrated throughout the month of June, in remembrance of the Stonewall Riots that started on 28th June 1969. Pride has been a huge part of not only Brighton’s summer calendar but the worlds. It is a time for the LGBTQIA+ communities and their allies to fly the rainbow flag loud and proud. It has also been seen as a time for global corporations to cash in on rainbow merchandise and the #pride trend. But this year was/is different!
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With our entire social calendars revolving around our smart phones, Pride 2020 has proven to be a Pride like never before. Forcing us to engage in dialogues, to create safe spaces for panels and discussions where we can highlight the real issues facing the LGBTQIA+ community today. For the first time in many years, the true meaning of Pride is at the forefront. In previous years those who attended Pride were often just there for the party. The streets filled with thousands of heterosexual people adorning rainbows and getting wasted. But how many of us have really taken the time to understand what this month is all about?
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Quick History Lesson: In the early hours of June 28th 1969, patrons of the Stonewall (an LGBTQ+ bar in Manhattan, New York), fought back against police during a raid, wherein police became violent towards members of the community. This resulted in a series of spontaneous demonstrations over the next few days, led by the infamous Marsha P. Johnson and Sylvia Rivera two black, transgender women. This event marked the beginning of the Pride movement and the first major step towards gaining rights for the LGBTQ+ community in the United States. However, this history has been lost over time somewhere between the pink shots and the feather boas. But this year has seen a shift. Pride has gone digital, making it accessible to so many more people. It has also highlighted the disparity in LGBTQ+ laws across the globe.
This information is often lost, however, due to COVID it has now become the main topic of conversation regarding Pride. Conversations that are being carried out not only by individuals within the LGBTQ+ community, but also by large corporations outside of it. For example SkyScanner held its first ever Pride campaign this year, titled ‘Here for Pride’. It was a series of webinar discussions around topics such as LGBTQ+ allyship, LGBTQ+ representation within travel, the effects of COVID on the LGBTQ+ community and so much more. All of these discussions were recorded and are available on the SkyScanner YouTube channel.
Netherlands
On 1st April 2001, the Netherlands became the first country to legalise same sex marriage and in July of this year it was announced that after a vote of 12426, LGBTQ+ rights will be written into the constitution.
USA
In June of this year the Trump administration erased transgender civil rights protections in health care.
Russia
In March, Putin submitted a 24 page draft document enshrining marriage as between a man and a woman, therefore banning same-sex marriage.
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Scotland
Scotland announces that from September 2021, LGBTQ+ history will be part of the national school curriculum in all schools.
Uganda
There are no LGBTQ+ rights, in fact they are in the process of passing the antihomosexuality bill, making it punishable by death.
This year has also been characterised by its explosion of activism. First ignited by the public murder of George Floyd, this event has been the catalyst for a major shift in the narrative of our society. It has forced so many people to stop and consider their own behaviours and how by being silent on these issues, you become part of the problem. I believe it can only be described as Universal Poetry that in the same month we celebrate the anniversary of the original LGBTQ+ fight against police brutality. Wherein a BLACK WOMAN led the masses, we are now defending the black community against the very same police brutality. The difference is that this time we have the ability
to communicate across countries and continents. We can rally together in our millions to stand up against human injustice. During the preceding 6 months of COVID, we learned the skills necessary to orchestrate global demonstrations. We have spent over half a year glued to our phones, communicating via screens and so now when we have something to say, our audience is there, ready to listen. As a black, queer woman living in the UK, the past 2 months have often had me feeling like I am defending my very existence. However, I also see my unique perspective. I have learned that it is my intersectionality, that can help to encourage dialogue build bridges during the healing process that is to come. This year has allowed the voices that often don’t get heard during Pride to be front and centre. It is the first year that we have seen protest specifically for Black Trans Lives. Finally society is acknowledging the level of discrimination faced by minority and marginalised groups. Digital Pride has given a voice to the voiceless and silenced the people who have been talking for too long. Pride 2020 has become a blueprint for all future Prides. Whilst, yes, there is some cause for celebration, let’s not forget our mission. Want to learn more about the identities in LGBTQIA+ and how you can be a good ally? Check out the @_breakingthedistance Pride Campaign, ‘Breaking the Stigma’ at www. breakingthedistance.com as well as via the Breaking the Distance Podcast (Spotify and Apple).
Written by Mark Avery Illustrated by Melcher Oosterman
Whether you’re shopping, going to the pub or traveling to work, there is now a real and tangible atmosphere of anger and division post lockdown so let’s explore why this may be and what we can all do to combat it.
The COVID-19 global pandemic has literally changed everything; mentally and physically we have been bombarded with messages of fear and hope in equal measure sprinkled with a large measure of disinformation, lies and distortions. Some Governments, like New Zealand and have shone in their response to the crisis, others, like here in the U.K. and the U.S.A have struggled, and that’s putting it mildly. The reasons are varied and debatable but what is irrefutable is the public has lost faith in the ability of its elected officials to manage an emergency in the best interests of its people.
This isn’t by accident by the way, this is the net result of populist politics, because divisionism works! All the while people are arguing with each other the guys in power just need to monitor where the majority view lies and align the next days slogan with that demographic. It works for a while but is impossible to maintain because the various groups start becoming more and more splintered as the subject matter changes and the effects are felt.
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Strong polling and support for Trump and Johnson has evaporated in the face of the COVID onslaught, with ever more nationalist slogans failing to placate the masses or contain the impact. With national lockdowns lifted the feelings of
community, family unity and collective responsibility have quickly given way to fear, resentment and uncertainty. With no clear route or plan for what the new ‘normal’ will eventually look like, we have all become more and more split and segregated by the mixed messages flashed up on our screens nearly every day.
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As the economy starts to open up and people return to a form of normality t
Guys wearing masks are jeered or assaulted by others who think the pandemic is a hoax or exaggerated by some in the media; they point to their conspiracy theory champions like Alison Pearson at the Telegraph or Brendan O’Neill and Toby Young at Spiked who continue to weave complete bullshit into flowery prose. That’s ok because they’re allowed, we live in country that still values free speech but that doesn’t mean we have to listen to it much less fall for their divisionist crap.
a long time ago that the British Government are basically making up as they go along, one minute ‘following the science’ next ignoring evidence and relying on rhetoric to restart an economy in the depths of recession. The reason for this is clear, they are petrified of losing support and with it, power. They are quite prepared to risk a few thousand more deaths to get the tills ticking over before the inevitable second wave and we return to a widespread but ‘localised’ shutdown.
To begin with masks were deemed unnecessary in the UK, despite large swathes of the rest of the world donning them; now there is legislation being rushed through to force the use of face masks in shops, takeaways and retail outlets, but not apparently offices. Anyone with a modicum of sense realised
The mixed messages now associated with masks has been reflected in nearly every other Government response to COVID except the very simple lockdown one of ‘Stay Home’. Unsurprisingly that has been the most effective and many people are sticking to it simply because they don’t trust anything that’s been said
since. The guys who have ventured out in search of a type of ‘normal’ to cling onto, have largely been met with a very different world to the one they remember, with increased segregation, queues, controls and restrictions. All of this has added to stress levels, feelings of uncertainty and nervousness; with recession now biting, the Brexit bonus being exposed as a very predictable mirage and Government support for Furlough and Business being withdrawn its little wonder that the vast majority of people are shitting themselves. Add to this weeks of isolation from friends and family and surprise, surprise, everyone is angry; they’re angry at themselves for feeling weak or scared, they’re angry at anyone not doing what they are doing and they’re angry at
the question is;
the lack of clear direction or a plan, there are no leaders. This manifests in arguments, violence and abuse, it shows its ugly head in the streets with gangs of youths in Shoreham openly defying the police, mass brawls on Hove Lawns, flare ups in shops and road rage wherever you look. The anger isn’t made up, it’s a real and tangible result of the uncertainties of what comes next.
fact or fiction. Be proactive in your approach to problems, don’t hide them away, whether its debt or job insecurity or mental health, confront them, discuss solutions and find resolutions.
We launched Kula in the middle of a global pandemic while everyone was locked down but we refused to be diverted or deflated from the task in hand, we made it happen because we care about the environment, climate change, food waste, water scarcity and everything about sustainability but ultimately we care about people and their infinite ability to respond to adversity and come back mentally and physically stronger. We have faith that the spirit and resolve that was on show during lockdown can be channelled in a way that will address the negatives but expand on the positives to produce long term change in behaviour and approach by working together on the things we agree on and plotting a path through the issues we don’t. Subscribe at Kulamag.com
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So what’s the answer?, how do we address this individually and collectively before it gets out of control? The answer is surprisingly simple but difficult to do alone, in fact by definition its impossible to do alone; its achieved through community and commonality, the basic feeling of belonging, or agreeing with something or someone immediately dilutes the anger, its shared and therefore
diminished. Get together with your family and friends and discuss your feelings, have a vent or write them down and do some research to see if those fears are based on
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Written by Mark Avery Illustrated by Mike Dicks
Universal or Guaranteed Basic Income is not a new concept, many countries around the world have trialled it and variations of it actually already exist in different guises.
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Even the arch capitalist and kids’ dinner snatcher, Ian Duncan Smith, was the architect for a watered down form of UBI now well known as the infamous Universal Credit. As usual though, those with a very limited grasp of macro-economics and instead rely on failing capitalist dogma have completely missed the point. UBI would solve much more than basic access to food, which is all Universal Credit achieves, it would redefine society and the health and wellbeing of a nation at a stroke. Just as with the arguments to exit the European Union, where the abilities of
very low intellect politicians to grasp the resultant benefits of EU membership are now becoming manifest, so now the same non-visionaries fail to see the bigger picture of the very real benefits of UBI. In all the tests around the world, the effectiveness of the various schemes was limited by the parameters set, for example, in Finland the scheme was open to unemployed only; subsequently this was reported as the participants didn’t find a job but were happier! The obvious conclusions were then drawn that of course individuals were happier given free money but it didn’t get them back to work. This analysis is ridiculous and damaging; there would need to be conditions in place which provided a route to employment not expect UBI
to miraculously create them like some benevolent Fairy Godmother. UBI or a variation of it would have the ability to do so much more than one dimensional, self-serving politicians could ever imagine; it’s not a socialist’s wet dream, it makes sound economic, financial and societal sense and here how; Lets start with who and why; By definition the income would be available to all, from graduation from secondary school at 16, if you choose to continue in further education that would be paid for by UBI as would retirement, administrating student loans, student debt, state pension and means testing applicable benefit payments would actually reduce the current fiscal burden on the state, and
UBI
Increase in spending State pension Productivity Local government NHS savings DWP Black economy Social care benefits Remove personal allowance
end job by a ‘career advisor’. With a basic income guaranteed, more people would be willing to volunteer and care for loved ones and those with better paying jobs could opt repay their UBI into the NHS, Social Care or Environmental Charitable Trusts. Unburdened of debt and worry, happier people are more productive, more imaginative and more able to retrain as the economy changes to keep up with technological advances, online marketplace and global events such as the recent pandemic. Imagine a workforce flexible enough to react to the stupidity of our elected officials who throw away trade deals with our most important partners for short term political traction and personal gain.
when I say state make no mistake, that’s us, you and me.
If you like what you hear and want to help us to build this collective and apply pressure by highlighting the bloody obvious to ‘career politicians’ who blindly follow a party doctrine like demented automatons then sign up to collaborate. We are determined to point to a different, more sustainable and healthier path than the current gaslighted and greenwashed trajectory and need more people to join us on this journey. See our social media and website for opportunities to connect, collaborate and contribute.
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Now we’ve got the cost what are the benefits and how does this add up?, how do we counter the dim witted, fiscal sheep who conveniently ignore the real costs of capitalism; the simple table below does exactly that in a way that
Imagine for one moment that students weren’t carrying huge debt burden well into their 30’s and beyond, imagine young people not worrying about how they can keep a roof over their head so they are forced into low pay, zero hours contracts, imagine pensioners who have worked all their lives not trying to exist on the lowest pension payment in Europe with one of the highest costs of living. Imagine also the potential of young entrepreneurs let loose to develop and deliver new and exciting green processes and carbon reduction measures instead of being directed to yet another dead
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So we’ve established the start and finish of UBI so now how much and that’s not a very difficult one, forget minimum wage and survival rations, lets use the Governments own calculation of what’s deemed as tax free income, our personal tax allowance, currently around £12,500. That produces a weekly income of £240 for each individual from 16 upwards; or in monetary terms an eye watering £664.35 billion.
even politicians can understand. Various sources have been used to collate the figures but wherever possible we have used Governments own data or that accepted by Government agencies.
UBI is not some utopian nonsense dreamt up on the back page of the Morning Star, it makes complete economic, fiscal sense and societal sense, that’s why it will gain zero traction from the current crop of selfserving, corrupt puppets who inhabit the hallowed halls of Westminster; instead it will take people with vision, drive and imagination, people like you, individuals who care about the wellbeing of the environment and its inhabitants to group together and force Governments to listen and effect real systemic change.
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Modern slavery is rife in the fashion industry, but as we ar systemic human rights violations across the world, our ac up and speak up. Seen through the #PAYUP and #WHOMADEMY to hold the government and big businesses accountable, dis going on far too long. There’s no doubt that this is a deeply investigate the topic further and shine a light on the brand
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re becoming more and more aware of the ctivist spirit has provoked us to stand YCLOTHES campaigns, we're now starting srupting a system that has been quietly y complex problem - so we aim to ds who are proudly doing it right...
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For years the fashion industry has thrived under a lack of transparency, only showing us what it is favourable to see. But with a global pandemic and an increase in online activism - social media use in Italy went up 70% between February and April 2020 - brands are rightly being held accountable for their shady business practices. In March of this year, news broke that countless fashion brands were cancelling orders under force majeure clauses – freeing them from any contract they had with suppliers. Overnight, factories which had completed orders for western brands now had nowhere to send garments and weren’t receiving payment. Garment workers have been stripped of their income and job security at the hands of brands deny any responsibility. The online #PAYUP campaign identified which brands were refusing to pay for goods already in production, and publicly held them to account. Fast forward to July, and more tales of worker exploitation hit the newsstands. Fast fashion giant Boohoo was found to be using factories in Leicester that were paying staff as little as £3.50 per hour. Sadly, it took the exploitation being much closer to home for the media to finally pick up on the gross negligence that runs throughout the industry. This isn’t the first time that Leicester’s garment factories have come under fire – a 2015 investigation found that over half of the city’s 11,700 garment workers were paid less than national minimum wage.
Without the ability to negotiate wages or improve working conditions, garment workers become exposed to a lifetime of exploitation at the hands of fashion brands, who increasingly expect a faster turnover of goods for less and less money in return.
Positive change can seem like an impossible task, but there are so many small actions we can take to make a difference. We don’t all have to be full time eco-warriors; we just need to put a little bit more thought into the choices we make.
The lack of transparency in the fashion industry has allowed modern slavery to thrive in the current climate. Brands shift responsibility onto the supplier and cut ties with the offending factory whilst moving on, free of blame, to another factory with similar practices. They want products made cheaply and quickly but act surprised when it is revealed that garment workers are paid pennies.
If you’re low on cash but ready for a wardrobe refresh, clothes swaps are the perfect place to clear out and pick up new clothes at the same time. Look at what you no longer wear and swap it for something that needs a new lease of life. Collectively, we have so many clothes hidden in the backs of our wardrobes that are ready to be shown off on someone else’s Instagram feed. Hermione Berendt, founder of Revival
This year, the Clean Clothes Campaign released a report surveying major global fashion brands including ASOS, H&M and Nike and found that 93% weren’t paying garment workers a living wage. Poverty pay is yet another form of modern slavery, keeping garment workers unable to save money, pay for decent healthcare and continue education for their children. This cruel power imbalance throughout the supply chain has been designed to line the pockets of billionaires while keeping garment workers desperate for work.
Collective advises “Not only should we try to make better choices when we shop e.g. renting, choosing second hand, clothes made from organic or recycled materials etc, it’s still important to think about whether we really want or need a piece, and if we’ll wear it 30 times or more, even when we’re shopping in charity shops. This also applies to buying things to re-sell too. If we have the money to spend it’s tempting to snap up all the cute garms but there are other people who rely on charity shops to get nice quality clothing.”
Policy change and government intervention is essential to improving the lives of garment workers worldwide, but consumers also wield an immense amount of power when it comes to enacting change. During the #PAYUP campaign both Kylie Jenner and Arcadia Group brand Burton deactivated the comments feature on their Instagram pages after an influx of consumers asking why they were yet to pay their suppliers. Fashion Revolution’s #WhoMadeMyClothes hashtag has
Further to that, when buying new, think about where your money will go. Is it going straight into the bank accounts of billionaires or being distributed throughout the supply chain? Vote with your money. Brands only listen when it affects their bottom line, so invest in the ones that are leading the way, shop second hand where possible and leave fast fashion in the past.
Writing + Collage by Lucy Lindley Founder of @Notsosloppy
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been used over 600,000 times by customers who want brands to open up their supply chains to public scrutiny.
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Analysts have suggested that Boohoo may have to move 40% of its production abroad to combat the bad press. But moving a problem out of sight does nothing to help the estimated 21 million people in supply chains worldwide who are victims of forced labour. Exporting exploitation to a country with less stringent employment practices only increases the risk of garment workers becoming stuck in a cycle of slavery. Modern slavery is a complex issue and it is not exclusive to retailers like Boohoo. Across the UK, 77% of leading retailers believe there are victims of modern slavery in their supply chains. Exploitation takes many forms, the most widespread of which is debt bondage – when an employee is forced into employment to pay off debt. They lose complete control of both their debt and
working conditions, with their labour inevitably becoming worth a lot more than their initial debt.
Fanfare @fanfarelabel www.fanfarelabel.com
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Fanfare is a sustainable British fashion brand that sets out to create powerful, positive change in the fashion industry. Originally launched in 2018 under the name 'Fabric For Freedom' by Esther Knight, the collection combines bold and contemporary looks with repurposed and reused materials, designed to create a wardrobe of sustainable clothing made to last. We caught up with Esther to find out a little more about the brand that’s boldy making its mark on an industry that requires revolutionary change. I first had the idea for Fanfare while I was working as a high street buyer. Buyers are responsible for the whole production line: your job is taking everything from sketch to store. You’re the one that's selecting fabrics and the one picking the suppliers and you’re the one that is contributing to the sustainability - or the lack of sustainability - of the product. If there’s an unethical part of the supply chain, you tend to know about it, and if you don’t know about it, you’re certainly contributing to it. I was on the phone to
the suppliers when they were still at work at 3 in the morning putting pressure on them to fulfil their orders and reduce their prices. I was doing this knowing that it isn't going to be me as the brand that suffers, and it probably isn't even going to be them as the supplier that suffers, it's going to be the workers that suffer the most from this pressure. I saw this huge industry-wide problem very early on in my days working as a buyer and I just couldn't ignore it, so I
culmination of everything I’ve been working towards for the last 10 years.
decided to make a change. I moved to Vivienne Westwood to learn more about ethical fashion, and there I spent quite a few years researching to decide whether starting my own business was the right step for me I wanted to be around people with similar values so that I could help make a difference, and Vivienne Westwood was a great place to start. At the time I found that there wasn't a single business (we’re talking about 7 years ago now) that was doing all of the things that I wanted to do - being fair to people and the environment but at a more affordable price range than the likes of Stella McCartney or Westwood. I wanted to create that middle ground offering affordable and cutting-edge contemporary fashion without compromising on ethics. That’s when Fanfare was born, and the brand today feels like a
At Fanfare I want to bring revolutionary change to fashion supply chains, end modern slavery in fashion and raise awareness around sustainability, all through the development of designled contemporary clothing. We work with anti-trafficking charities such as IJM and A21 Campaign, both of which fight to free people from within the fashion industry across the world, helping local law enforcement to end slavery in the long term. We see ourselves as a pioneer of a new type of fashion – brands that care about innovative design and creativity on the same level as the wellbeing of the people who work with us and the resources that we use to make our garments. It’s an exciting time for us; we recently underwent a rebrand, bringing a new collection and a whole new visual aspect to our website, and we were recently nominated for a Drapers Sustainable Fashion Award in the 2020 round. It’s a tough time for a lot of people, but we’ve been fortunate that coronavirus hasn’t hindered our plans too much; as a small brand our operations can be done remotely which helps us to stay agile and adapt to these kinds of sudden changes.
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Over the next few years, I would love to see Fanfare grow and make a big difference to the world of sustainability. Our business model holds people and the planet at its core – everything is made locally in London. The materials we use are all high quality and are certified from organisations such as GOTS and OEKO-TEX, so we’re really ensuring that everything we do has as little impact on the environment as possible. In the future, it would be amazing to have a physical retail space for our brand which we could use to help educate people as to why it’s so important to be aware of how your clothes are made and where they’re coming from, and help people make better choices in future when they’re buying new clothing.
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FASHION SHOULDN’T COST THE EARTH.
from rodion kutsaev from Unsplash
Written by Meredith Cairns-palmer
If you’ve ever visited Brighton you’ve most likely found yourself fumbling around in the many colorful trinket-y shops found in the North Laines. You’ll also know that, among many other things, it’s got bohemian, floral & hippy vibes galore (kudos to Brighton for staying on-brand). You can usually gauge a good idea of how close you are to these shops by how frequently you find your nose wafted with enchanting incense. Sitting sweetly on the outskirts of the ever many jewellery stands and rails of repurposed denim, you’ll find the vintage boutique, All about Audrey.
Brighton’s infamous Laines are a tribute to how shopping locally can drive the local economy and for that matter, community spirit. It’s important that we take it upon ourselves to support these livelihoods, giving priority over fast fashion giants wherever possible. While many of said giants were able to survive due to a surge in online shopping (boredom combined with the undying need to fill a void). Many of the smaller inhabitants of the Laines haven’t had such luxury. This is your public reminder to think twice before you support the giants that induce modern day slavery and contribute to a huge percentage of the environmental damage seen today. It’ a much warmer feeling to know who you are supporting, and rock a piece that’s the only one of its kind. If you visit the store, you can expect to find a mixture of vintage and handmade clothes and jewellery with a 70s vibe and a bohemian but also refreshingly unique feel. Audrey loves working with Indian patterns and often recycles fabric from sari’s to rework into beautiful dresses and clothes. Audrey’s passion for floaty silks, cotton dresses and wildflowers has become her trademark.
So, what does the future hold for this gorgeous shop? Audrey plans to grow the brand’s online presence and carry on her travels overseas to source more vintage fabrics and hunt for new suppliers to make more beautiful, ethical and sustainable clothing, and we can’t wait to watch it grow!
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Much like many other small businesses found amongst the Laines, Audrey was impacted by bitter crunch
of lockdown. Audrey put most of her staff on furlough, with two staff staying on board, setting up studios in their own home to keep business going. Thanks to their online store and large social media following, the business was able to double online sales made during the lockdown period. Audrey found herself handdelivering orders to locals. That’s not to say that business hasn’t been slow since the easing of lockdown, looming anxiety around job security and financial stability is evident. HOWEVER, things are picking up and Audrey and the team remain positive.
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The charming lady behind it all, Audrey, is a far reach from her hometown in Dundee. But has been a vintage clothing fanatic since the 90s, when she became obsessed with finding old clothes and fruitful fabrics. Closely followed by her next biggest love: travel. Audrey has lived and worked in countries all over the globe including the South of France, Australia and the Swiss Alps. Her favourite pastime on her travels was discovering quirky shops and finding beautiful clothes and jewellery. This inspired her to start selling her own handmade jewellery on the beaches of Bora Bora, in Ibiza and even in the mountains of Chamonix *weeps at the sorry sight of dusty suitcases*. With the vision of opening a shop planted firmly in her head, Audrey made her way back to the UK and decided that
the vibrancy and creative energy of Brighton made it the perfect place to settle and open her dream shop. There’s no question that All About Audrey fits in perfectly where she landed.
Trying new things is fun! A change from the norm to find out more about yourself. This has been m it’s helped me make better choices without pilin overwhelmed.
We have to make choices every day - what to w The trick with being more sustainable is introduc become part of your subconscious. Like diets, soup diet, it has to work long term.
It’s all about what you can do and what works fo remember you can’t do everything and you wil off and try again tomorrow. The trick is to start s
“What shall we eat tonight? The same meat bas this simple veggie recipe for a change?” (bette and the planet)
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— WHERE D FROM?
— WHERE W I’M DONE W
— CAN I DO BREAK THE
THE BASICS This list feels like a no-brainer to me, but you’ll be surprised how many people don’t do some or all of them:
m, a break from routine, a chance my approach to sustainability and ng on the pressure or feeling too
wear, what to eat, what to watch. ucing new choices that eventually s, nobody sticks to the cabbage
Pack a reusable water bottle
Turn lights off when you’re not using a room
Pack a reusable bag (for all shopping, food or otherwise)
Turn taps off when you’re brushing your teeth
Pack a reusable coffee cup
Turn your engine off when you pull over
or you. It’s also really important to ll have bad days, just write them small and see how you get on.
sed dinner AGAIN or shall we try er for your health, wallet, animals
RSELF:
DID THIS COME
O ANYTHING TO E WASTE CYCLE?
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WILL IT GO WHEN WITH IT?
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Go exploring. Before you commit to your new list, take a look around your local area and see what it’s got to offer? If you live in or around Brighton you’ll know how spoilt we are for choice. There’s refill shops popping up all over the place - which are much more fun than shopping in the supermarket. We have fresh fruit and veg on almost every corner, weekend markets and plenty of organic shops - there’s something for every budget.
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You can find beautiful second hand furniture and reclaimed wood - we love a shelf made from scaffolding planks in our flat. There’s second hand book shops, flee markets and amazing vintage clothes stores scattered through the laines. If you’re new to this type of clothes shopping then start with denim - jackets, jeans, dungarees, skirts - It lasts for years and years and you’ll save a jaw dropping amount of water by not buying new. (an estimated 20,000 litres of water to make just one pair of jeans and one t-shirt.)
Isn’t sustainability for hippies and activists and middle class mums who live off mung beans and nettles? No, but I have met some amazing people who fit that description. You don’t need to change being you, just adapt some of your current habits. For example, you can still have a boozy picnic on the beach, just bring your reusables, avoid items that come in plastic and put everything in the correct bin when you’re done. You can even take it one step further and pick up someone else’s rubbish when you leave! Then you get a warm fuzzy feeling for preventing even more crap ending up in our ocean. Being sustainable can be so simple, we just need more of us to start making small changes every single day.
Convenienc but at what
A little bit of plan way, something th natural to me an Charlie will happil I am learning. Pla money and waste.
We waste less foo we plan our mea taxi journeys if we a little earlier an take public transp bargains if we t search for a seco instead of buying Market, Gumtree, Amazon Warehous
Illustrated by @kathrynrosebrown
ce is key, t price?
nning goes a long hat does not come nd my other half ly confirm this, but anning helps save .
od on the weeks als. We take less e leave the house nd walk, cycle or port. We find more take the time to ond hand version g new - Facebook Ebay, Free Cycle, use.
Challenge yourself.
So where to start?
When you’re about to make a new purchase, ask yourself questions do I really need this? Do I love it? Is there a plastic free option? Could I buy this second hand or fix the one I already have?
Paying attention to your current habits will be a huge eye opener. What do you throw in the bin? What do you spend your money on every week? What do you own that you haven’t used in ages? What journeys do you make?
We’ve been lucky enough to have amazing neighbours, friends and families, so we borrow all sorts from each other like ladders, suitcases and even cars. You can say thank you with food or offering to help with things like decorating or babysitting, which I think is better than money in most cases.
If you love a list, and who doesn’t, write down what you’ve observed and then circle the things you could swap or cut out completely. Remember, start small and add more to the list when you’ve nailed the first few.
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Thanks for reading and I hope you’ve found this helpful. I’d love to hear what different choices you’ve been making and I’m always happy to help if I can. Be part of the @Sustainable_Squad and find me on social — I’m most active on Instagram.
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Written by J Taylor Illustrated by Massi Marzucco
Lingerie and sex-focused fashion can be the final hurdle girdle for conscious consumers but UK brands are engaged in stiff competition to make eco intimates more focused on us screwing each other rather than the planet! Covid-19, despite not being the sexiest of subjects, has ironically led to a swelling (sorry) in the sales of sex toys, garments and parephenalia. Whilst this is fantastic in helping us stay in and get some, recent studies show that bedroom tools and unmentionables are responsible for over 223 million tonnes of waste each year in the UK alone. So for many, the landfill impact from dildos, fast-fashion lacies and condoms is enough to turn anyone celibate.
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Thank the universe then, that we’re living through a boom in conscious crotchless clothing. As millennials and Gen Z increase the pressure on traditional retailers to step up to the sustainable plate, the UK is seeing a rise in stimulating start-ups offering everything from ethically-sourced lingerie, cruelty-free paddles and more. Combining its history as a progressive, sexually accepting & uninhibited society with an eye on a greener, less wasteful future, Brighton is quick becoming the capital of sustainable sex. Local companies such as Luna Huva, Ayten Gasson, Inner Secret and many more are bucking fast fashion trends and the wasteful side of shagging. Brighton Lace is one such brand, creating stunning handmade underwear using re-used, vintage lace and ethically-sourced, OEKOTEX certified lace crafted by its three
women team. Commenting on why so many like-minded businesses originate from the city, company founder Louisa Crosby said: “Brighton is a liberal, fun and free city which celebrates creativity and pushes people to think outside the box on a huge number of issues.” Ethical fashion shopping usually means reducing plastic or checking the bamboo or hemp is biodegradable and well-sourced, but with sustainable lingerie and sex gear it’s not as simple as just getting wood. For starters, the best things in life aren't actually free, you have to pay for the quality you want and sex isn't a time for scrimping. Make the right choice and you can quite literally get more bang for your buck! Brighton Lace has noticed a trend in Gen Z and Millennials leading the way in sustainable underwear, in part due to the price tag. “Sustainable undies are a bit more expensive at the moment so do require some disposable income,” explained Crosby. “However, I think these generations are passionate about using their purchasing power to support brands that are trying to change the industry for the better.”
Living a sustainable sex life takes a bit more research, effort and time than a traditional trip to M&S or Debenhams lingerie aisle but as with the best sex, putting the work in and focusing on over convenience always leads to the best O. Just think of sustainable sex as the edging of retail, it might take longer but the satisfaction is so much sweeter! Convenience is the enemy of sustainability or as Mae West so eloquently quipped, ‘I never said it would be easy, I said it would be worth it!’ Outside of the mainstream lace lingerie and green garters, the kinkier side of the industry is also taking the animals out of animal attraction. Brighton’s Inner Secret creates handmade, vegan sex toys and BDSM gear ranging from a Steampunk Strapon Harness to Vegan Upcycled Bike Tube Flogger. Sustainable sex is an inclusive boudoir it seems.
It’s not just Brighton which is bucking the trend in terms of fast frisky fashion as UK brands, such as AmaElla, Dora Larsen Qrucifix and Lara Intimates, are putting more emphasis on conscious chokers and sustainable suspenders. Warwickshirebased Qrucifix specialise in transparent, clean fashion that is ethical to humans and nature equally with the company proudly stating its belief that ‘sustainability is badass!’ Alongside an increased focus on ethical living, there is also less stigma around promoting lingerie in general thanks to Instagram, Pinterest and other platforms putting the power in the hands of women according to Brighton Lace’s Lou Crosby. “I am passionate about Brighton Lace empowering women and that is reflected in my business paying the living wage,” she said. “I think that the campaigns around desexualising the female body and allowing us to just be, unless we actively choose to be sexy, has helped reduce stigma. Social media has empowered a lot more women, with all different shaped bodies, to be in their underwear in a public sphere, on their own terms. We’re loving how inclusive the lingerie industry is becoming and this is really something lots of ethical and sustainable lingerie brands are pioneering.” In the inimitable words of Marilyn Monroe: “Sex is a part of nature, I go along with nature.” Preach!
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For some, it’s not just a case of making sustainable choices and supporting local businesses; the very idea of environmental activism is an erogenous zone in itself - an ‘ecogenous’ zone if you will. Ecosexuals are people who see the earth as a “lover, not a mother”, and it’s a growing sexual orientation thanks to a manifesto created by founders Elizabeth Stephens and Annie Sprinkle. In addition to being aroused by nature itself the sexecology mantra also includes being aroused by acts of ecoliving such as being attracted to a person’s carbon footprint or getting off to someone’s plastic free pantry.
The Brighton institution, She Said Erotic Boutique, is well-versed in keeping up with the times ensuring their stock caters to clientele of all perusasions, including ecosexuals. With a whole smorgasbord of products for the ethically-minded from vegan whips and embossed ball gags to reclaimed rubber handcuffs and, of course, the Gaia Eco Bullet World’s First Biodegradable Vibrator. “We're not the average shop, we're quite unique and the service we offer is unique too. Women who've gone through cancer and need adapted bras or those looking for bespoke, sustainable garments. All of this is hugely important to us as our USP is being able to provide something you can't find anywhere else.”
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Three inspirational University of Brighton graduates are now bringing a new way of shopping to the city, creating an online platform that bridges the gap between ethically minded individuals (like you) and local retailers making a difference in the way they do business. Written by Sharna Waid “Simply sign up, shop and get rewarded; it really is that easy,” says Charlie Jordan, who together with close friends Matt Denford and Ryan Hudson, set up collaborating on Ethicul after finishing their Business Management degrees this summer. The online platform and app is simple - when someone purchases with an Ethicul partner, they receive Ethicul tokens for doing so. As they continue to shop, these can then be redeemed for a mystery Ethicul reward from one of the 30+ retailers part of the scheme, which is growing weekly. Spanning across a wide range of sectors, these so far include: Brighton Lace, Hisbe, Purezza, Harriets of Hove, Old Tree Brewery, Nadarra Cosmetics, My Green Pod and more.
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There’s no doubt that Brighton is known for its ethically minded brands and shops, but even so, many of us still shop with the retailer powerhouses that often ‘greenwash’ their reputations. And often factors such as convenience and price can get in the way of ethical shopping habits. “This is where we recognised the
problem.” says Charlie. He continues “We did not know where these ethically minded organisations were, nor what they had to offer.” Having sat on the idea, support from the university relit a spark for taking Ethicul forward into the new decade. Now the scheme helps give ethically minded retailers the exposure, visibility and reach they deserve, and rewards their customers too encouraging audiences into a new way of buying. Matt, Charlie and Ryan quickly found that despite all three of them living in Brighton for three years, their network predominantly consisted of university contacts when they were seeking to transition Ethicul from a concept into a reality. As they started having wider conversations, they quickly found how supportive and helpful members of the Brighton and Hove community were; particularly within the sustainability space. “Every single person we work with are on a shared mission to drive positive change; not only for us, but for generations to come,” says Charlie that also states despite launching Ethicul on the 11th June (bang in
the middle of a global pandemic), over 200 people within Brighton and Hove have already joined the scheme. With Ethicul being featured in the press and subsequently more companies getting on board, the Ethicul platform could not have come at a better time, where small businesses (and the planet) require support to create a societal shift in the way we buy, especially during turbulent times. Although Covid-19 has been a moment of reckoning for many retailers, Ethicul think otherwise, and have witnessed significant changes in purchasing behaviour, with many individuals shifting towards shopping locally by already reaching and redeeming their Ethicul Rewards. Charlie goes on to say “Despite the destruction and upset it has brought to our lives, it has certainly been a lesson to us. It is crucial that this emphasis remains as we transition back to normality. At Ethicul, we are continuing to propel this mindset forward. Every penny our community spend with our retailers helps fight for the sustainability of our planet, enhance our wellbeing whilst improving local communities as well as those around the world.” If you would like to get rewarded for shopping at ethical retailers in Brighton - sign up to Ethicul’s token scheme via the website on www.ethicul.co.uk.
If you’re from Norwich, or you’re just a diehard vegan foodie, you’re most likely familiar with the original site of Erpingham House which, since its opening, has seen incredible growth and is now recognised as one of the UKs top plant-based restaurants. Prior to the success of his first restaurant, the co-founder Loui Blake had an idea. He decided he wanted to revolutionise the concept of a business, believing that a business exchange should only ever be a win-win. Loui believes that each choice that we make is one that influences our future, no matter how big or small. Loui’s ethos is one that believes in small incremental changes that contribute towards large scale and long-lasting change. He believes that every choice we make can be one that influences our future, and thus, Erpingham House was born. The idea was to normalise vegan eating by creating a menu full of plant-based versions of familiar, well-loved foods at competitive prices, whilst still providing the aesthetic, picture-perfect experience.
Swipe left and get your phone cameras at the ready folks, the ultimate instaworthy vegan dining experience, Erpingham House, has opened up its doors in Brighton, on Duke Street.
The birth of Loui’s second endeavor came from a desire to fill a gap in the market. Loui noticed that whilst there were plenty of vegan options in central London, there was a gap for a plant-based restaurant providing the aesthetics of a fancy restaurant, but at
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Written by Lauren Cowley
Having taken matters into his own hands, Loui’s infectious ideology of how good businesses should be, meant that he didn’t stop there. Today, the company is known for continuously finding new ways to offset any environmental damage and to actively have a positive impact on the environment and local community. Loui and the team have set out to provide top tier working conditions for staff, whereby at minimum, all employees will receive living wage. They are also entitled to receive significant discounts on food and a paid taxi home after working past midnight. The company has also partnered with local businesses such as the zero-emissions taxi firm for staff and customer travel, as well as being Carbon-Free Dining certified.
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The new Brighton location has brought onboard top Los Angeles chef and former culinary director of Plant Food + Wine in Venice beach, Jason Wood. With his expert help, the Brighton location has jazzed up the original menu, now with a combination of classic favourites and new twists such as the Brighton Bowl (just order one and thank me later). Erpingham House has it all all; it doesn’t matter if you fancy a romantic meal, want to grab a bit of lunch, need a latte and a catch
up, or you want to dress up and have roof terrace drinks with the girls. You can do it all in one place and that was Loui and the team’s entire plan with both locations, to create a place that could bring the community together (I’m not crying, you are). Erpingham House and Kalifornia Kitchen are paving the way and setting the example for sustainable business everywhere. We hope to see more and more business following suit, putting sustainability and community growth at the forefront of their ethos. From myself, Brighton progressives alike, Welcome, Erpingham House.
@erpinghamhousebtn www.erpinghamhouse.com
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“ be driven by your ideas and your purpose, but be adaptable to new information. And practice self-care. That one Is massively important. “
LOUI BLAKE
and reduced emissions. *Enter Kalifornia Kitchen*. The interior is no less than stunning and the hope is that by attracting everyone, vegan or nonvegan, that plant-based, sustainable eating can become the norm.
@louiblake
We caught up with Loui Blake to get his thoughts on life, business and new challenges in Brighton. How different is Brighton to Norwich and what attracted you to open a restaurant here? There’s actually a fair amount of similarities between Brighton and Norwich, but I would say the vegan scene is further established in Brighton. Both places love independents, bohemian and are incredibly liberal, and have strong hospitality scenes that transcend the usual chain restaurant city centres. My business partner, Russell Martin, was playing for Norwich city when we opened Erpingham House there and after moving back to Brighton was trying to convince me to get one open in his home town! I’ve always loved going to Brighton and selfishly I wanted to spend more time there. Equally, I recognised that as popular as plant-based foods are in Brighton, it lacks more formal dining experiences that are 100% vegan. My friend Anna at Happy Maki, and Cem at What the Pitta are testament to how successful vegan brands can be in the fast and casual food space, but there was a gap in the market for what we could offer, and so we made the decision and went for it.
Do you think your previous background in running clubs and the nightlife scene has benefited
your success within the hospitality industry?
Nightlife definitely helped me. I find it fascinating how our previous roles and businesses can provide so much for future ventures, which are seemingly so different. I ran two nightclubs in my early twenties and learning how to operate a venue (or how not to!) has stuck with me. Working in London and dealing with high profile clients, you need an attention to detail. Also learning about guest experience components helped us curate an experience that makes everyone feel special. I really enjoyed working in nightlife but as my lifestyle changed, it was no longer a good fit. I now find much more gratification in helping people discover healthy foods and make the connection between what they consume, and how it impacts the world around them.
The word vegan often comes with quite a negative connotation, sometimes labelled as hippie, restrictive or weak. Has this shown up within your businesses and how have you overcome it? The word vegan has certainly had a negative connotation attached to it previously, but I do feel that’s changing. When we first opened Erpingham House over two years ago, we avoided the word altogether, and instead choose to say "Plant-based”, but still adhering to the vegan ethos. Our core customer base is not vegan at all, and we’ve found it’s much easier to speak to this “flexitarian” group by using the term plant-based over vegan. I do think the more people see the word being used in the mainstream and by big brands, it becomes more normal, and in turn, will benefit businesses like ours.
I have to say, I took a week off and it was exactly what I needed. I’d been working 100 miles an hour for years and it was truly the first time I was able to switch off. When you have businesses that trade 7 days a week, or 24/7 in some cases, it’s hard to find time for yourself. After that, I got really into my running and channelled my energy there, running a marathon and then an ultramarathon. In terms of work, I was able to really focus on pivoting to meet the new demands of the space and we opened a number of new kitchens with Chloe and Vegan Dough Co in London. It was a really productive time and the balance of work and training helped keep me level headed. My daily practices were more manageable than ever and I spent a fair amount of time alone, reading and taking stock of where things were.
What advice would you give to young entrepreneurs looking to start a business within the sustainability industry?
My advice for anyone looking to start a business in the sustainability industry is to be driven by your ideas and your purpose, but be adaptable to new information. And practice self-care. That one Is massively important. If you are the driver, you need to give as much attention to the vehicle, if not more. It’s really important to give your all, but save something for yourself.
What are your vegan cooking skills like and what’s your go to meal? My cooking skills leave a lot to be desired, but I’ve got really into sprouting recently! I love whole and plant-based foods and try to eat healthy 90% of the time. I would say I assemble rather than cook, but I can use a juicer and a blender pretty well!
What can we look forward to from you in the future?
In the future, I’d love to diversify my concepts and keep bringing new ideas that are of service and value to the community that’s seeking healthy, sustainable foods. I’m paying attention to where I'm supposed to be and what people want from me at the moment – so, let’s see!
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The lockdown period was obviously a particularly tough time for the hospitality industry. As a multiple restaurant owner and all the pressure that brings, did it have an effect on your mental health
and how did you remain positive during these testing times?
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Starting out as a humble pop up in Bethnal Green, The Vurger Co have just launched its first restaurant outside of London, here in the heart of Brighton. Passionate about the planet, the proudly vegan company makes its tasty burgers and milkshakes from ethically sourced ingredients, served in plant-based packaging that is fully compostable - they’re also a 100% cashless brand. With the talented Gaz Oakley behind the menu, The Vurger Co have well established themselves as one of the UK’s original cult vegan burger chains - revolutionising fast food through the power of plants. 1. Tell us a little about yourself and Neil, what are your passions, what brought you to this point?
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We are both incredibly passionate about food, always have been, we literally eat, sleep, dream in food and restaurants. However we had very different careers when we started out. I worked in the Fashion industry as a Luxury Fashion Buyer and Neil worked in HSBC as a Risk Analyst. It was really Neil’s health issues that drove us to make a huge change in our lives. He suffered really badly with a stomach issue that no doctor could resolve. At this point we decided to just take some time for an adventure around California as we headed into our 30th Birthday. It was through our visit to California in 2016, that we realised how our accessibility to such incredible vegan options both in supermarkets and restaurants was severely limited back at home in London. In 2016, the word Vegan itself was a taboo word here in the UK, you were judged and thought of in a certain way and therefore the food options here in the UK were treated in the same vein – no innovation and no accessibility.
That was our ‘light bulb’ moment, we wanted to create amazing vegan burgers, that celebrated all types of vegetables at their core, but absolutely prided itself on innovation and taste – something that just never existed in the marketplace. We have been on that mission since 2016 and we just haven’t stopped.
a place we can all come together and celebrate how delicious vegan fast food can really be. 3. What are you core values, what makes you guys different? It truly is everything that The Vurger Co represents on every level that makes us so different from everyone else.
2. What made you decide to make the menu entirely vegan?
Our company values that we have stood by since 2016 are :-
Honestly it was because of our personal choice to become Vegan (for health, environmental and animal welfare reasons) and then seeing the way we were suddenly treated in most restaurants across London that made our ‘eating out’ experience so difficult, and we wanted to change that for everyone. We knew if we were being treated this way, chances are other people are too.
RESPECT | AUTHENTICITY | THINK BIG, ACT SMALL | WORK AND LIVE WITH PURPOSE | WASTE NOT | SOCIALLY CONSCIOUS
We wanted to create an environment that everybody felt comfortable in, no matter what you usually eat in your spare time, that was none of our business, we wanted to showcase how this was
These values are what we represent as a brand in every single facet of our company from every level and that is what makes us who we are to the core. We provide access to educational opportunities, mentorship, training, into work programmes, community projects, charity paid days, business outreach programmes and so much more to make it an amazing place to work.
So the way we run our business - from the food we produce in house, to our very own people, to the care we take with our packaging to ensure it is all composted, to our kind working environment - all adds up to be a company that we hope everybody in our team is proud to be a part of, that in turn leads to happy customers! 4. How has the reception been since you opened in Brighton? We always rely on our Instagram community to tell us what they think! We repost everything in our stories so our followers can take a daily look at what people are saying. We are the kind of company that listens to intently to our feedback to improve for next time, so we appreciate emails from our customers too. Remember nobody is perfect, we opened just 14 days ago, with a brand new site, in a brand new city in the middle of a pandemic, but are our team doing an ace job? – Yes without a doubt! All the support we’re getting is incredible and we couldn’t be more grateful. 5. What are your plans going forward, where do you plan to go?
@thevurgerco www.thevurgerco.com
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Thank you so much for having us, asking us some incredible questions and we really hope you’ll come to see us in any of our stores soon! Rachel x
Well that is totally up to our customers! As I mentioned, we listen to them, their feedback, their opinions, their messages are everything to us. We posted a story on Instagram recently that asked everyone to let us know where we should go next, and let’s just say there were some very VERY interesting ideas in there. So watch this space, The Vurger Co is definitely ready for more burger flipping action!
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“ I strongly believe that we are what we eat and that food really can help our mental health . I also believe life is about balance and so love nothing more than a glass of wine and a slice of chocolate cake too!”
Food writer, consultant, influencer and plant-based cook Gemma Ogston of Gem’s Wholesome Kitchen, has a passion not just for delicious, nourishing food, but for drawing the connection between a healthy mind with a healthy body. Gem grew up in a large family, and as the youngest child of five is used to being surrounded by lots of noise and happy chaos! She learned to cook from her mum who is not only a fantastic cook but who also taught her how to cook on a budget. Gem would often cook for the whole family from as young as eight years old, and this is where her passion for cooking started. During her teenage years, she suffered from anorexia, but luckily recovered thanks to the love and support of her family.
Most of her twenties were spent partying, and in her early thirties, Gem experienced a number of miscarriages. Through these experiences, Gem worked out the link between eating well and feeling better, both physically and mentally. Inspiring her cooking to this day, Gem then started eating more plant-based foods and focused on eating for physical health, as well as continuing to experiment with mood foods. And it worked! Being blessed with two healthy children was a turning point for Gem and after working in the mental health sector as a drugs counsellor for many years, Gem decided to pack her bags, with the family, and go to Barcelona for an adventure... where she ended up staying for two-and-half years. While there, Gem set up a vegan takeaway business from their central apartment, often preparing vegan bento box picnics for travelling DJs, as they were all sick of airline food! Word spread and Gem’s business was doing so well. In December 2019, Gem published her first recipe book, The Self-Care Cookbook: Easy Healing Plant-Based Recipes. Full of beautiful photography and easy to follow recipes, Gemma Ogston introduces us to eating as the ultimate chef with each recipe crafted to be nurturing to your body – and mind. With over 60 delicious recipes including fiery bean stew for the days ‘we feel under the weather’, calming miso pasta ‘to give your gut flora a super boost’, and indulgent chocolate pud because ‘you deserve it’, The Self-Care Cookbook is for anyone who needs some extra TLC. As well as writing a book and running Gem’s Wholesome Kitchen with her husband Peter in Brighton, Gem also provides beautiful and delicious food for events and offers bespoke monthly five day ‘Nourish’ packages for individuals. For Gem, the workshops aren’t just about giving people the skills to cook for themselves she also wants to educate people about how food can impact their mental wellbeing
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@gemswholeseomekitchen www.gemswholesomekitchen.com
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Now she is on a mission with friend Aye from Fu Fighters to start an exciting new venture - "Plant Stories _ a community shared kitchen" based in central Brighton, which will be offering a kitchen share for new plant based and sustainable food businesses. (watch this space for more information, coming soon!) Other new projects include developing recipes for big brands like Holland and Barrett, Sweaty Betty and a few top secret projects too!
This smoothie looksand tastes like sunshine and is sure to boost your mood.
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Digestive issues can be closely linked to stress and The apple cider vinegar and ginger will give your gut some TLC
INGREDIENTS: 200g mango ( fresh or frozen) 1 small banana 2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled 1 tsp ground turmeric Juice and zest of 1 orange 1 tbsp raw apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp coconut oil a pinch of freshly ground pinch of sea salt Handful of cashews Cup of ice black pepper 250ml almond milk (or plant based milk of your choice) Blend and enjoy. Serve cold.
These multi-coloured raw rolls are guaranteed to bring you joy. They are perfect for tucking into a lunchbox to take to work to give your day a little midday rainbow magic. Of course, you can use any raw veggies you like. They’re great to share with friends over, too – get everyone to roll their own! I live above the Open Market and get all my ingredients there. The veggies from ‘the fruit shop brighton” and rice paper rolls from the Asian supermarket. INGREDIENTS: 1 large carrot, thinly sliced 1 yellow pepper, deseeded and thinly sliced 1 red pepper, deseeded and
thinly sliced
1 ripe mango, diced 1 beetroot, peeled and finely grated 100g cooked quinoa (or brown rice) a large bunch of mint, chopped a large bunch of coriander, chopped 1 tbsp of alfalfa sprouts 8 spring roll rice paper wrappers For the spicy nutty dipping sauce: 3 tbsp nut butter 1 tbsp tamari 2 tbsp maple syrup juice of 1 lime 1 small fresh chilli, chopped 1.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
Get all the veggies, quinoa and herbs prepped and ready. Boil roughly 500ml water, pour it into a shallow bowl and let it cool a little. To make the dipping sauce, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk together. If it’s too thick, add a little hot water to thin it out. When ready to assemble the rolls, submerge a rice paper wrapper into the warm water for about 10–20 seconds to soften. Place it on a clean surface (not a wooden board) and gently smooth it out. Add some carrots, peppers, mango, beetroot, quinoa and a small handful of herbs and alfalfa sprouts. Fold the bottom edge of the rice paper wrapper over the filling, then gently roll it over, folding in the side to completely seal. Place on a serving plate and cover with a damp clean tea towel to keep fresh. Repeat until they all made then serve with the sauce to dip, garnished with a little extra chilli and coriander if you like.
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Cooking in nature can feel so liberating. These light and healthy kebabs are brilliant for a barbecue or cooked over a camp fire. If the weather’s not so good though, they’re just as delicious popped under the grill, and even work in a pitta pocket in a lunchbox. Tofu is a good plant-based source of protein and iron; it’s vital that we include iron in our diet, as this helps reduce tiredness and aids better sleep. Serve with cooked brown rice or a big salad.
INGREDIENTS: 250g extra-firm tofu (I use FU FIGHTERS (local brand) chickpea tofu, but any firm tofu will do), cut into 2cm cubes 2 peppers, deseeded and diced 50g button mushrooms, left whole 1 aubergine, cut into 2.5cm chunks 2 red onion, peeled and quartered chopped fresh chilli, to serve coriander leaves, to serve For the marinade: 2 tbsp tamari 1 tbsp honey or maple syrup 1⁄2 tsp smoked paprika 1⁄2 tsp garlic powder 200g peanut butter 200ml coconut milk juice of 2 limes 1⁄2 fresh chilli, chopped
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In a shallow bowl, mix together all the ingredients for the marinade with 2 tablespoons water. Add the tofu cubes and mix well to coat. Cover and leave for an hour or so in the fridge to marinate. When ready to cook, alternate pieces of tofu and the veggies onto skewers. Grill or barbecue for 10 minutes on each side, brushing with the remaining marinade. The veggies should be cooked through and a little crispy around edges. Serve the kebabs with any extra marinade as a sauce to drizzle on top, and scattered with the chopped chilli and coriander.
“ All I knew at that point was that I wanted the design to use reclaimed materials inside and seasonal, local and foraged produce for the cocktails. “
A big hello to all Kula Magazine readers. We are Gungho! a sustainable cocktail bar in Brighton, in this article I will be telling you all about the concept behind our forwardthinking bar and will share some delicious foraged spritz cocktail ideas with you too. My name is Julien and I run Gungho! on Preston Street (it’s an amazing street just off the seafront, full of fantastic restaurants and people). After working in a plethora of bars in Brighton for 5 years, I decided it was time to establish the concepts I learnt and do it myself. Initially, I wasn’t really sure how I would start off. I even considered providing a pop-up bar service or converting a van into an events/festival bar, but after some planning (and quite a bit of wine) I took the plunge and found myself on a whirlwind journey of opening up my own bar. All I knew at that point was that I wanted the design to use reclaimed materials inside and seasonal, local and foraged produce for the cocktails.
Our first menu included cocktails like the APPLE - made with somerset cider brandy, stewed apples and werther’s originals; PARSNIP - made with honey vodka, candied parsnip, manzanilla sherry, and champagne; and MUSHROOM - made with scotch, umeshu, lavender, and mushroom carbonation. We had an amazing response from fellow bartenders, chefs and foodies, but it seemed too adventurous for the public. People wanted a bar where they felt comfortable ordering Margaritas, Espresso Martinis and other popular cocktails...mushroom cocktails, not so much! The most important aspect of any hospitality business is ensuring that our guests are content and satisfied; off-menu and classic cocktails were vastly exceeding the number of seasonal cocktails we were producing; so it was clear we had to tweak our offering. Whilst we could have taken the easy road, scrap our concept and just make popular cocktails, I was adamant to do it on our terms and find a happy medium. This led to us launching another menu, ancillary to our seasonal, foraged cocktails. The ‘Revised Disco Drinks’ menu: disco-era cocktails and drinks revised for the modern palate. Drinks like Strawberry Daiquiris were converted from sweet, slushy messes into fresh, zingy, rummy cocktails that a classic daiquiri has always been. This menu took off, and we received great feedback from everyone. It was a great accomplishment, which really kickstarted our project to create a sustainable version of retro and classic cocktails. After years of tweaking, we at Gungho! have been able to create a unique bar where sustainability, local produce, and foraging is at its core; not only on our own creations but throughout classic and popular cocktails that people enjoy.
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@gunghobar www.gunghobar.com
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FORAGED ROYALE Now this is a recipe for homemade liqueur using wild blackberries or raspberries, you can choose! Use 15ml of the liqueur and top it with your favourite sparkling wine for a foraged kir royale sorta vibe!
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Ingredients: 500grams beet sugar (silver spoon brand in supermarkets) 250ml hot water hob and pan fine mesh strainer/muslin cloth stirring spoon or spatula 200 grams foraged wild blackberries/raspberries or a mix of both 400ml vodka Method: Add 200 grams of your blackberries or raspberries or a mix of the both into a pan. To this, add 500 grams of beet sugar and 250ml of hot water. On a low heat dissolve the sugar for 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently and not allowing the mix to go beyond simmering point Allow this cordial to cool Once cooled, add 400ml of vodka, mix well and refrigerate Leave this to infuse for 1 week After 1 week of infusing, use a fine mesh strainer or muslin cloth to strain out the liquid. Now just add 15ml of the liqueur to a flute and top with your favourite sparkling wine! We used a combination of 50/50 raspberries and blackberries, plus a little cognac as well as vodka to make a delicious foraged version of chambord!
LAVENDER SPRITZ For the first delicious spritz we are going to be using lavender, which is growing everywhere right now and smells amazing! I found some in a nearby park in Brighton and located it just from the pungent scent! You will need a handful of the buds, keep 1 or 2 for your garnish!
Method: Brush off 3 tblspns worth of the lavender flowers, 300 grams of beet sugar, 2 tspns of citric acid, 6 crushed cardamom pods and 200ml of water. On a low heat, stir frequently but gently for 8-9 minutes, not allowing the liquid to go beyond simmering Sieve the liquid out into a clean, sterilised bottle and allow to cool To make the Lavender Spritz: Fill a wine glass with cubed ice Pour over the ice 50ml of your Gin/ Vodka (we used Manchester Raspberry Gin) Add 25ml of your cooled lavender and cardamom cordial Top up your glass with sparkling wine (we used brut sparkling wine, demi sec or prosecco will make the drink sweeter!) Stir the drink with a spoon or straw to mix the ingredients together Garnish the drink with lavender buds and fresh mint (optional) KULAMAGAZINE 55
KULA HEROES KULA HEROES Happy Maki
What the Pitta
CuttleFish Eco Salon
8 Pool Valley, Brighton BN1 1PN
14 East St, Brighton BN1 1HP
31 Gloucester Rd, Brighton BN1 4AQ
Contact number: 01273 737369
Contact number: 07550 816040
Contact number: 01273 622662
The Vurger Co.
Food for Friends
Wolf & Gypsy Vintage
13 Brighton Pl, Brighton BN1 1HJ
17-18 Prince Albert St, Brighton BN1 1HF
30 Sydney St, Brighton BN1 4EP
Contact number: 01273 073150
Contact number: 01273 202310
Contact number: 01273 671797
12 St James's St, Kemptown,
The Real Junk Food Project
Hisbe
Brighton BN2 1RE
50 Gardner St, Brighton BN1 1UN
20-21 York Pl, Brighton BN1 4GU
Contact number: 01273 855845
Contact number: 07925 611297
Contact number: 01273 608028
Erpingham house
Gungho Bar
The Hope & Ruin
14 Duke St, Brighton BN1 1AH
36 Preston St, Brighton BN1 2HP
1-12 Queens Rd, Brighton BN1 3WA
Contact number: 07894 160454
Contact number: 01273 733266
01273 325793
BackWood Sustainable Café
Wastenot - Zero Waste Shop
Infinity Foods & Bakery
3 - 4 Circus Parade, Brighton
Unit 9, Open Market, Marshalls
25 North Rd, Brighton BN1 1YA
BN1 4GW
Row, Brighton BN1 4JU
Contact number: 01273 603563
The Roundhill
Beyond Retro
The FAIR Shop
100 Ditchling Rd, Brighton BN1 4SG
23 Gloucester Rd, Brighton BN1 4AD
21 Queens Rd, Brighton BN1 3XA
Contact number: 01273 235884
Contact number: : 020 7729 9001
Contact number: 01273 723215
Purezza
