Mardonia Galeana, who ran an informal restaurant for undocumented workers out of her apartment in the 1990s, prepares a meal in San Jose. Photo by Beth LaBerge/KQED.
Elevating San Jose’s Immigrant Food Communities Over the span of two weeks, Tsai and his team of food writers elevated San Jose’s undersung food scene — its home kitchens, strip-mall restaurants and pop-ups — and readers took note. San Jose Mayor Sam Liccardo posted: “It’s official. San Jose is, far and away, the Bay Area’s greatest immigrant food city. There, KQED said it. And they’re right.”
In the Bay Area media landscape, San Jose and the South Bay are often overshadowed by San Francisco and Oakland. This past year, KQED Food Editor Luke Tsai had the chance to spotlight one city’s vibrant food community — and he knew just where to go. “When I talk about how I’d rather eat in San Jose than almost anywhere else in the Bay Area, I tend to get a lot of blank stares,” Tsai wrote in the introduction to the special series “San Jose: The Bay Area’s Great Immigrant Food City.” But, he asserted, there’s no other place in Northern California with such a wide range of homey Ethiopian stews; strip-mall Vietnamese pho and banh mi spots; Mexican panaderías; Somali stir-fry; destination-worthy ramen and so much more. Immigrants from those particular food cultures all knew about San Jose’s greatness as a food city. So why wasn’t anyone else talking about it?
Working with numerous contributors from San Jose, many new to food writing but all well seasoned in their hometown’s food culture, KQED introduced readers to the hidden food gems found in pockets of a city better known for tech. In the series, readers met 86-year-old Mardonia Galeana, who ran an informal restaurant out of her San Jose kitchen to feed undocumented workers during the racism and xenophobia of the
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