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STUDIO COLLECTION 2018/19 Fur Techniques Tutorial
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FUR TECHNIQUE TUTORIAL Kopenhagen Fur Studio Every year, some of the world’s most prestigious designers are invited to work with the in-house furriers at Kopenhagen Fur Studio, our centre for innovation and design. With access to multiple technique samples and a showroom of styles that challenge perceptions of what can be made with fur, our furriers inspire fashion partners as well as instruct up-and-coming designers. Kopenhagen Fur Studio also works to secure the presence of fur worldwide, advising international brands to enable and encourage the use of fur. With this tutorial, we give you Kopenhagen Fur’s take on how current trends in the world can be interpreted into new fur techniques. You will find a variety of techniques; some suitable for full fur styles, some suitable for accessories and some suitable for combining fur with other materials. As the core of our daily work, all techniques were developed with a strong focus on craftsmanship and detail.
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HOW TO NAIL A SKIN For every technique in this book, all skins must be stretched, nailed and steamed before the work can begin. The following 8 steps should be applied in every technique.
Choose the skins you wish to work with.
Pull the skin on a tane.
Cut the abdomen open.
Cut the forelegs open.
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Moisten the skin.
Pull the skin in width and length.
Nail the skin to an appropriate size.
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FUR TECHNIQUE 1: WEAVE ILLUSION
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FUR TECHNIQUE 1: WEAVE ILLUSION Two mink types are combined in a woven pattern. Suede leather is sewn in to enhance the woven expression. If you wish to achieve extra tridimensional effect, you can choose fur that doesn’t have the exact same hair length.
The tools.
Choose two different types of mink and select a suede leather that fits the colour.
Select skins that share the same hair length and underwool thickness.
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On both mink skins, draw 2 cm vertical strips then 8 cm horizontal astrips.
Cut the vertical strips first, then cut the horizontal strips.
Once the strips are cut, place them one by one on the pattern.
On the suede leather, draw and cut 2 cm wide vertical strips.
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Place the suede pieces one by one on the pattern along with the mink pieces.
Sew the mink and suede pattern together on the fur machine.
Flatten the seams, using a seam roll.
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Stretch and nail the technique.
When dry, take the skin off the board. Steam and brush the finished technique.
The final result.
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HOW TO ASSEMBLE THREE SKINS
Use the already nailed skins. Sew the skins together – make sure the hair length matches.
Mark the swirl at the forelegs.
Mark the cutting line on the leather side.
Put two skins together, leather to leather where they are to be sewn together, to check if the underwool matches.
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Check, in particular, whether the cross by the front legs on the skins, are at the same point.
Place a mark on the leather side, to help indicate where the skins are to be sewn together
Sew the skins together and flatten the seams.
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Check once again whether the underwool on the three skins matches. Adjust.
Moisten and nail the skin so that the seams are straight.
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Brush and steam the skins.
Choose three shaved skins and repeat the process.
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FUR TECHNIQUE 2: MINK LACE
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FUR TECHNIQUE 2: MINK LACE The mink lace technique makes the fur light and airy. Holes are punched in a lace pattern. The technique can be used as trim or full fur garment. Suitable for decorative elements or light styles (e.g. eveningwear or “summer� fur styles).
The tools.
Using a heat press, bond leather to the back of the skin.
Place the paper pattern onto the leather side of the skin.
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Use a slot puncher to hammer holes through the leather and fur.
Brush the skin to remove loose hair .
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The lower edge can be cut with a knife.
The final result.
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FUR TECHNIQUE 3: MINK DÉGRADÉ
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FUR TECHNIQUE 3: MINK DÉGRADÉ This technique is suitable for longer and lighter garments. The technique can also be used for double-faced garments, which will reveal the beautiful craftmanship and make a garment even more lightweight. It is very good for use of leftover skins and has low fur consumption.
The tools.
Choose three pieces of mink leather and one piece of mink skin with degradé shaved fur
Draw diagonal lines onto the leather side of the mink. Cut the mink into diagonal strips.
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Cut all three leather pieces into 1 cm vertical strips.
Place the dĂŠgradĂŠ mink and the three pieces of leather in a systematic order.
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Sew all the strips together on the fur machine.
Moisten and nail the completed technique.
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Take off the technique and steam the completed fur peice.
The final result.
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FUR TECHNIQUE 4: DIAGONAL FOX
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FUR TECHNIQUE 4: DIAGONAL FOX Small fox stripes are sewn together with leather in a diagonal angle. Because the fox is so voluminous, only a small amount of fur is necessary to achieve an impactful look. It is very good for use of leftover skins and has low fur consumption. Lightness makes it suitable to be worn in spring/autumn and winter.
The tools.
Select one fox skin and three mink skins in different colours. Nail the skins and prepare them for the next step.
Cut the three mink pieces in three different colours into 3 cm vertical strips.
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Place the leather strips next to each other in the desired order.
Sew the strips together on the fur machine.
Flatten the seams, using the rear end of a knife.
Draw diagonal lines onto the leather.
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Cut the fox skin into 5 mm strips.
Place the fox strips in diagonal lines on the leather and sew them together on the fur machine.
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Flatten the seams, using the rear end of a knife.
Moisten and nail the technique, then let it dry.
Steam and brush. The final result.
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FUR TECHNIQUE 5: LET OUT REVIVAL
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FUR TECHNIQUE 5: LET OUT REVIVAL
The let out technique is a classic technique within the furrier craftmanship.
The tools.
Select and nail the skin.
Take the measurements from the pattern and mark them on the nailed skin.
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Do the let out calculations and decide the angle.
Mark the distance of the let out and the angle on the leather side of the skin.
Cut the mink skin in the centre back, before cutting it into 0.5 cm strips on the cutting machine.
Sew all of the 0.5 cm strips together on the fur machine
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Place pencil marks on the skin to show how far each strip is pushed apart before sewing.
Moisten and stretch the skins.
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Take the let out technique off the board and steam it.
The final result.