MARCH 20 18
NORWEGIAN TYPE Draws a global crowd
I SSU E 52
Together we carefully craft
Operation Brands – All working together
News in Brief
A tribute to talent
Soft fur went hand in hand with raw urbanity
Norwegian Type draws a global crowd to Kopenhagen Fur
Furrier Portrait: A creative winter
Auctioneer Portrait – The international salesman
Events in Copenhagen
Grand Jørgen Simonsen fashion show and exhibition
Auction schedule 2018
EDITOR IN CHIEF Jesper Uggerhøj EDITOR MIichael Abilon LAYOUT Yedda Zhang PRINT Rosendahls a/s ADVERTISING Kathrine Engberg / [+45] 4326 1062 Norwegian Type will make its grand debut at the March auction. This style on the cover, designed by Edda Gimnes, showcases the potential of the beautiful fox fur skins.
Get your flight information & airport shopping guide Download our free Chinese mobile app
E D I TO R I A L
KOPENHAGEN FUR SHARPENS ITS PROFILE
Kopenhagen Fur opened the new sales season with the February auction. All eyes turned to the auction as it was the first auction of the season and therefore, a new price level was going to be established. At the first day of sale, the buyers in the auction room were very hesitant, but slowly the atmosphere loosened and sales began. We sold the entire offering of 3.4 million mink skins and the price rose in USD. With the uncertainty that has been in the trade, we are pleased with the good start of the season, where, with renewed self-confidence, the customers bid up the prices of mink skins. An offering of 25,000 chinchilla skins was also sold at an increase in prices of no less than 20 percent in USD. Overall, it was a satisfactory start of the season, in which Kopenhagen Fur’s total offering of mink skins will be around 29 million. No other auction house can offer such a large collection of mink skins that meets every need of the subsequent parts of the value chain. Our offering in types, qualities, sizes etc. is unique. In connection with the auction, Kopenhagen Fur presented its new graphic profile. We have a vision to be the world’s most sustainable fur house, and our new, sharpened profile will support this journey. I see a great need for communicating our sustainability values, craftsmanship, innovation and community to secure our markets and,
Craftsmanship: All the way from the work on the farms via the grading of the skins in Glostrup to the fur craftsmanship in Kopenhagen Fur Studio, it is all about good craftsmanship.
Jesper Uggerhøj, CEO, Kopenhagen Fur
NO OTHER AUCTION HOUSE CAN OFFER SUCH A LARGE COLLECTION OF MINK SKINS THAT MEETS EVERY NEED OF THE SUBSEQUENT PARTS OF THE VALUE CHAIN
for that matter, expand our markets. Our core values are strong: Sustainability: We are dealing with a natural product that is biodegradable and long-lasting. We do not only use the fur; a 100 percent of the mink is used. We have documented high animal welfare.
Innovation: We are innovative in the way we work on the farm and develop the auction house, an example being our new flow packers. Community: Our owners - the 1,500 fur farmers and their families - our 500 employees and our approximately 2,000 customers together form a unique and strong community. Kopenhagen Fur, but also the trade as a whole, needs to get closer to consumers to position ourselves as the responsible and sustainable partner for future sales. In order to stop big fashion houses moving away from using fur in their collections, we need to create a broader understanding of fur as a responsible material, and Kopenhagen Fur’s new profile will contribute to this. It is complemented by IFF’s new efforts with closer dialogue with the trendsetting fashion houses that have been launched to ensure the future for fur. Thus, the unique community that Kopenhagen Fur is based on extends beyond the fur trade so that with a joint effort, we can ensure a positive future for the fur trade.
O U R CO R E STO R I ES
TOGETHER WE CAREFULLY CRAFT THE WORLD’S FINEST FUR Uncompromising craftsmanship in everything we do – even down to the logo on the door.
Rounded purple block capitals, set against a circular symbol of twists woven around the company’s initials. That was the site that greeted customers at the headquarters of the world’s leading sustainable fur house on 6 February, when Kopenhagen Fur debuted its refreshed visual identity. “Our new logo and symbol are designed to highlight what we have always done best at Kopenhagen Fur. Craftsmanship and a respect for tradition are ingrained in our company, and our updated look brings out the essence of what has always been there below the surface and what made us a world leader in the fur trade to start with,” says Henriette Glæsel, Vice President of Marketing at Kopenhagen Fur. Community Here at Kopenhagen Fur, we pride
ourselves on understanding and working together with farmers and buyers. Being a cooperative, community has always been a foundational aspect of our company. We have an intricate understanding of the craftsmanship and the detailed knowledge it takes to get unique and top-quality skins; in many cases, this knowledge
OUR NEW LOGO AND SYMBOL ARE DESIGNED TO HIGHLIGHT WHAT WE HAVE ALWAYS DONE BEST AT KOPENHAGEN FUR. 6
has been honed over generations. That spirit is also passed down in our production halls, where quality graders with decades of experience work diligently to assess every skin that will be offered for sale, down to the teams that staff the auction room. With more than 500 employees and approximately 2,000 visitors at our auctions, Kopenhagen Fur is a miniature community devoted to the craftsmanship of fur. Craftsmanship Craftsmanship is not only found among farmers and furriers. It is also an important mindset on the production floor. We continuously look for ways to remain in the lead and secure high value for all our partners to make sure that both buyers and farmers can continue to thrive. Our state-of-the-art machinery is custom-developed to
O U R CO R E STO R I ES
The new visual identity will support our strategy to strengthen our position as the worldâ€™s leading sustainable fur house, says Jesper Lauge Christensen, Executive V. P., Commercial, at Kopenhagen Fur.
ensure the nearly perfect quality our buyers expect, and our grading processes remain the best in the fur trade. We also strive to deliver skins to our customers cheaply and reliably and have expanded our shipping options via Global Fur Logistics and increased efficiency with new techniques such as flow-packing. Sustainability Caring about our customers goes hand in hand with caring about our community-at-large and the environment. We
accept nothing less than high standards of animal welfare. But that also means making sure people can use fur for its durable and lasting qualities. Mink fur garments really are long-lasting. Studies show that they can be used for up to 30 years and perhaps even longer if they are upcycled. And at the end of its use, fur is a circular material that is biodegradable. - These aspects of Kopenhagen Fur have always been around, but even the greatest works of art need an occasional treatment to bring out their
finest details, says Jesper Lauge Christensen, Executive V. P., Commercial, at Kopenhagen Fur. - Our values remain unchanged though. The only change is the increase in focus by Kopenhagen Fur on explaining our story; the new visual identity will support our strategy to strengthen our position as the worldâ€™s leading sustainable fur house.
By Michael Abilon
O P E R AT I O N B R A N D S
OPERATION BRANDS – ALL WORKING TOGETHER Last year, Gucci and Michael Kors announced plans to end working with fur. Although this was extremely disappointing, we were determined to stop other brands from following them. The Board of IFF along with major auction houses agreed that immediate action needs to be taken and therefore, decided to step up IFF’s work and launch a programme called Operation Brands.
Operation Brands is about the whole trade coming together with one clear message and campaign - Natural Fur – The Responsible Choice. This project is designed to reach out to all key brands and communicate with them about the sustainable qualities of fur. We have appointed four top fashion agencies to support us in London, Paris, New York and Milan. Our work is focused around talking to brands, designers, media and key colleagues. We are raising fur’s profile at major fashion events such as the Conde Nast Luxury Conference and FT Luxury event. We are also reaching out to the sustainable world and are talking with representatives from other textile trades such as wool, cotton and other natural textiles. We need to improve when it comes to explaining the advantages of fur, getting the facts straight and addressing the misinformation that exists in some places. We have not been good enough at this. Fortunately, many fashion houses use fur; we need to make sure
this continues. We will work closer than ever before in the trade, between auction houses and individual fur retailers and across countries organised by IFF and Fur Europe. We want to explain that fur is a modern choice adding value to the fashion houses. It is natural and produced under high animal welfare standards. We also want to ally with other natural materials such as wool, cashmere and silk. Also, we are
WE WILL WORK CLOSER THAN EVER BEFORE IN THE TRADE, BETWEEN AUCTION HOUSES AND INDIVIDUAL FUR RETAILERS AND ACROSS COUNTRIES ORGANISED BY IFF AND FUR EUROPE 8
currently researching and documenting the environmental impact of fur in order to put the facts straight. A lot of facts and knowledge already exist in our trade, so we are not introducing anything new. It is rather about collecting the knowledge we have gained from the different sources within the fur trade in various countries and put it to good use so as to explain the advantages of a natural, biodegradable and sustainable product. As more people focus on the plastics damaging the environment, we have a great opportunity to promote natural fur. We plan adverts and social media campaigns to promote this. This is by far our largest project and we believe it is critical to the future of our trade to ensure brands remain confident working with fur. It has been great to see the whole trade come together to support this project.
Guest segment – By Mark Oaten, CEO of the International Fur Federation
O P E R AT I O N B R A N D S
OPERATION BRANDS – ALL WORKING TOGETHER
Increasing presence and awareness. Those are some of the key elements in Operation Brands, that will ensure fur’s continued popularity.
Rent a car at your special “fur rates”
• Luxury cars • Automatics • Busses
at your 3rd booking
Kopenhagen Fur Phone: +45 43 26 10 00 e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Please remember to get your benefit card when you pick up your car.
9 KopenhagenFUR_175bx118h_november2016.indd 1
N EWS I N BR I E F
THE KOPENHAGEN FUR AUCTION APP IS AVAILABLE It is no longer necessary to be present in the auction room to be completely updated on the latest skin prices. With the new updated Kopenhagen Fur Auction app, customers can use the notification feature to receive notifications about prices every time a skin type has been sold. In addition, deviations will be calculated based on the selected currency - and not in DKK as previously. This means that customers and farmers alike can receive general information about the market price level as the auction takes place. The data in the app is updated continuously. In fact, viewers can see the sales figures shortly after the gavel has come down. All that is required is a smart phone or tablet with an internet connection. Good overview Apart from the updated sales figures, you can also read auction news, statistics and a listing of when the auctions are being held. The Auction app is available for all major platforms both in English and Chinese.
CHINCHILLA TOP LOT FAVOURED BY MR HE JING IT WAS THE FORMER TRIPLE TOP LOT BUYER MR HE JING WHO TOOK HOME THE 50 FINEST CHINCHILLA SKINS ON THE FIRST DAY OF THE FEBRUARY AUCTION. THE SKINS WENT FOR 1,540 DKK EACH.
Mr He Jing from the exclusive studio Beijing Sensations Fur has acquired a taste for Top Lots. On the first day of the February auction, he bought the Chinchilla Top Lot. The Chinchilla Top Lot was purchased for 1,540 DKK per skin. It was not the first time the Beijing based designer and tailor Mr He Jing bought one. In September, he made Kopenhagen Fur history when, as the first customer ever, he bought three Top Lots at one auction. Among these three, he also purchased a Chinchilla Top Lot in September. He went all in as it was the first time ever he had bought a Top Lot. Back then he said at the time: - What really matters is that I want the finest quality of skins for my customers. Specialized in quality Beijing Sensations Fur specializes
in making fine, quality customized fur and leather garments for high-end customers. His luxury store is located in one of the prestigious, beautiful and traditional quarters of Beijing. Here, his company is located in one of the well-known, traditional courtyard houses, Si He Yuan, that evokes the history of the Western Zhou period in China, which dates back over 2,000 years. His decision to place his business here and brand it as a private, exclusive club, as well as his decision to buy Top Lots, go hand in hand. - No matter the cost, we must have the finest skins for my customers in surroundings that evoke the history of China, he says. I chose the Chinchilla skins over other types of skins because they are rarer and indicate luxury and exclusivity, he said in September.
N EWS I N BR I E F
THE FIRST MINK TOP LOT BUYER OF THIS SEASON From online auction to traditional purchases in the auction room Mr Zhu Lin from Nanjing, CEO of Nanjing Lukou Yisite Fur Town Tianxia Fur Fashion Co. Ltd., was the buyer of the first mink Top Lot of Kopenhagen Fur’s 2018 sales season. During the February auction he placed the winning bid of 920 DKK in the auction room thereby securing the Brown Velvet Female Top Lot. positive buying experience, he says. Mr Zhu Lin is the first buyer from his home region of China to attend an auction at Kopenhagen Fur. - This is my first visit to Kopenhagen Fur; previously, I have purchased via the online auctions, but I decided to attend the auction here in person instead of using a broker. It has been a very good experience for me to visit Kopenhagen Fur and it has been an efficient and
other mink skins for my business. I am certain that I will be back again, he says.
Appreciates the quality Mr Zhu Lin praises the grading and quality of Kopenhagen Fur.
When asked about his future ambitions he explains:
- The quality of the skins is very high, and the prices are good, he says. Mr Zhu Lin is certain that he will return to Kopenhagen Fur in the future. - I purchased this Top Lot and many
- I want to take things relatively slow, really consider my next move and develop my business carefully, says Mr Zhu Lin who has been in the trade for 12 years and who has slowly but surely worked his way up in the fur trade.
SEALSKINS ARE NOW QUALITY LABELLED Garments carrying a Kopenhagen Fur quality label are made from fur skins that are unmatched in quality. Only skins sold through Kopenhagen Fur and graded by our graders can carry the Kopenhagen Fur quality label.
FOR THE 2018 SEASON, WE HAVE PRODUCED NEW FASHION POSTERS THAT WILL BE AVAILABLE IN THE SERVICE COUNTERS.
Most skins sold through Kopenhagen Fur are mink skins, but Kopenhagen Fur’s quality labels extend equally to fox, chinchilla and swakara skins – and now also seal.
POSTERS FOR THE NEW SEASON
N EWS I N BR I E F
REMEMBER TO REGISTER - OUR NEW RECEPTION As customers who attended the auction in February noted, the reception has received a significant upgrade. To facilitate an easy registration, please register beforehand via mail. Customers and buyers travelling from countries requiring a visa will benefit greatly from registering upon their arrival at Kopenhagen Fur. Customers and Buyers - How to register: Registration at the auctions is a two-step process that is both quick and easy. - Step one: Customers and buyers must register beforehand at www.kopenhagenfur.com or send an e-mail to email@example.com. Please inform us how many guests you are bringing or intend to bring. - Step two: Customers and buyers are also required to register at the main entrance upon arrival. Buyers’ registration – How to register to get your buyer number for the sales: Buyers arriving during inspection or sales are required to register by signing the Buyer’s Register form as early as possible in order to receive their buyer number sign and have seats allocated in the auction room. As registration may take some time, please register well in advance of the sales.
A SUCCESSFUL WINTER OLYMPICS IN SOUTH KOREA The Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang, South Korea has recently concluded. As sponsors of the Danish athletes participating in the games, Kopenhagen Fur’s farmers have followed the athletes intently. The sponsorship gave Kopenhagen Fur the opportunity to invite members of the South Korean fur trade to the Olympic games. With the sponsorship, The Danish fur house aims to support Danish elite sports and the Danish athletes in this recent Olympics and in coming games. Also, the sponsorship means that Kopenhagen Fur can promote fur in various key markets in Asia, where the Olympics will be held. The support continues well beyond the recent Winter Olympics. The
sponsorship also extends to the Summer Olympics in 2020 in Tokyo, Japan, and the 2022 Winter Olympics in Beijing, China. All key markets for Kopenhagen Fur. - I believe that we can achieve a lot with this sponsor agreement. We have previously sponsored organisations in Denmark, but we have never had any sponsor agreements abroad. We believe that it is a good idea to do it now with Team Danmark and the Sports Confederation of Denmark, because the next three Olympic Games will be held in key markets in South Korea, Japan and China, said Tage Pedersen, Chairman of the Board, Kopenhagen Fur, last autumn when the agreement was made.
FOR CHINESE CUSTOMERS: E-MAIL ADDRESS WHEN APPLYING FOR VISA When requesting an invitation letter from Kopenhagen Fur in order to apply for a visa to visit Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions please contact our Beijing Office at this e-mail address:
On inspection days, registration takes place in the Customer Department. On selling days, registration takes place in the Customer Service Counter in front of the auction room.
N EWS I N BR I E F
TOP LOT BUYER USES KOPENHAGEN FUR’S MINK TO CLIMB TO THE TOP
Ms Hu LiQin, CEO of Zhejiang Xuebao Fashion Garment Co., Ltd. has taken her company to the top in Asia using mink skins from Kopenhagen Fur to achieve her high ambitions. The Palomino Velvet Males Top Lot was purchased for 740 DKK per skin at the February auction. The buyer comes from the Zhejiang province in China, where the heart of her company is located. Even though the company has been purchasing high-quality skins at Kopenhagen Fur since 2005, this was her first Top Lot. Her company specializes in leather and fur, sometimes even combining the two in various collections. Zhejiang Xuebao Fashion Garment Co., Ltd. was established in 1984 initially specializing in creating high-quality leather garments. However, this changed approx. 13 years ago, when the company decided to introduce fur into their line-up. Trust in Kopenhagen Fur - For years, we had worked hard to create awareness among our target consumers; and it worked. We became
well-known for our quality products. In 2005, however, when we decided to include fur in our collections, it was a new experience for our customers. To ensure that our leather and fur styles would be well received, it was necessary to use skins of the finest quality. Using skins from Kopenhagen Fur helped because our customers knew the Danish auction house and trusted the quality, she says. This strategy has worked. Over the last few years, the company has experienced an impressive 30 percent annual growth rate, with increasing awareness among the company’s target consumers. Now, the company employs 600 workers, has 20 stores situated around China and 5 major distributors. Ambitions for the future Ms Hu LiQin’s history in the trade is
connected to her home region, which historically was known for its leather tanning. She quickly realised that she needed to adapt and evolve, which lead to her introducing fur into her styles. Ms Hu LiQin has implemented a clear strategy to reach her current goal, but still she has more ambitions. Firstly, she wants to improve her production development. She has begun working with designers from Italy and is planning to introduce a collection at the One Milano on 23-26 February. Secondly, she and her staff are working hard to maintain the 30 percent growth rate, she has experienced up till now. Thirdly, she is looking into digital solutions that will optimize the management process in her company and has ambitions of continuing her success on e-commerce platforms in China. Finally, automatic production upgrades to optimize company production and minimize upkeep are also being looked into.
2018 CALENDAR IS NOW AVAILABLE The 2018 calendar with this season’s auction dates will be available in the service counters.
KOPENHAGEN IS CLOSED FOR EASTER HOLIDAYS ON 29 MARCH, 30 MARCH AND 2 APRIL
I M AG I N E TA L E N T S
A TRIBUTE TO TALENT In a raw setting at Copenhagen’s “Paper Island”, Kopenhagen Fur’s design competition, Imagine Talents, took place during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Design talents from around the world showed their take on fur and fashion demonstrating innovation, courage and creativity. The evening culminated with the announcement of the winner, Chinese Shangqian Xu from the University of Westminster, who received not only a big round of applause and the title, but also a prize of €5,000. Design talents of tomorrow ‘Imagine Talents’ is part of Kopenhagen Fur’s talent programme. Through strategic co-operation with the world’s leading design schools and top fur manufacturers, students are offered insight into the traditional craftsmanship carried out by furriers. Tomorrow’s designers are paired up with leading fur manufactures via teaching, creative interaction and knowledge sharing. This bridge building between fashion and fur gives students the necessary tools to be able to work with sustainable fur designs in their future work. New approach to fur The winner was selected by an international jury consisting of five members who reviewed the students’ fur styles.
The 23 participants pitched their designs to the jury at Kopenhagen Fur’s creative centre Kopenhagen Fur Studio. Jesper Uggerhøj, Kopenhagen Fur’s CEO, read the following statement from the jury just prior to the announcement of the winner: - Shangqian shows a new approach to the texture of fur and uses forward looking and innovative construction techniques; creating an interesting juxtaposition between street fashion and the craftsmanship of the furrier. Sustainable winning design All the participants’ fur styles in this year’s Imagine Talents show revolved
THE WINNER WAS SELECTED BY AN INTERNATIONAL JURY CONSISTING OF FIVE MEMBERS WHO REVIEWED THE STUDENTS’ FUR STYLES.
FAC T S : M E M B E R S O F T H E J U RY
Guo Chao, Fashion Director, L’Officiel China As Øland, Creative Director, Danish Fashion & Textile Edward Crutchley, Designer, Edward Crutchley Jens Laugesen, Designer, Jens Laugesen Jordan Spyropoulos, Vice President Merchandising, BC International Group New York
around the theme of sustainability. For Shangqian Xu, reusability was a prominent design feature in the winning menswear style. - I used recycled denim and ecofriendly materials in combination with black and orange mink. Sustainability is the main thread of my design; I tried to use every bit of mink and not waste anything, said the young design student who is studying in London.
By Michael Abilon
A T R I B U T E T O TA L E N T S
The statement from the jury praised designer Shangqian Xuâ€™s approach to the texture of fur and innovative construction techniques. The winning design revolved around the theme of sustainability. For Shangqian Xu, reusability was a prominent design feature in the winning menswear style.
W H AT I S I M AG I N E ? Imagine Talents is a global programme where students from some of the worldâ€™s leading design universities can learn about fur.
PA R T I C I PAT I N G D E S I G N U N I V E R S I T I E S China Academy of Arts (CH), Tsinghua University (CH), The Arts Institution of Heilongjiang (CH), Design School Kolding (DK), Via University College (DK), The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts (DK), Business Academy SouthWest (DK), Royal College of Art (UK), Westminster University (UK), Atelier Chardon Savard (FR), T.E.I. of Central Macedonia (GR), Mode Gakuen (JP), Seoul National University (KR) and University of Technology and Design (RU).
TA L E N T S
TALENTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD Design talents from 14 different design universities showcased their styles and their imagination during Imagine Talents. Have a look at some of the fur styles from this yearâ€™s show.
Creativity in full bloom. The international design students had free reigns to create all manners of different fur styles.
TA L E N T S
The winning style by Shangqian Xu from from the University of Westminster. Shangqian Xu used mink with raw denim to create a fresh take on the classic 1960â€™s mens coat.
Designed by Jaehee Lee from Seoul National University. The style is inspired by peacock feathers.
By Yuying Luo from Tsinghua University in China. - I took inspiration from the overprint of block prints and tried to make similar effects with delicate layers of fur and fabrics, the designer explained about the design.
By Alexandra Sofie Angela Kustvall Larsson from Mode Gakuen in Japan. This Swedish designer focused on floral patterns combined with geometrical shapes.
OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS OH! BY KOPENÂ HAGEN FUR HAS WORKED HARD TO ESTABLISH ITSELF AS A BRAND WITH ITS OWN IDENTITY - AND THE HARD WORK IS SLOWLY PAYING OFF. OH! IS BECOMING WELL-KNOWN FOR THE WILLINGNESS TO MIX FUR WITH OTHER MATERIALS AND PUSH DESIGN LIMITS.
U R BA N I T Y
OH! BY KOPENHAGEN FUR FASHION SHOW: SOFT FUR WENT HAND IN HAND WITH RAW URBANITY Urbanity was at the very centre, when Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur held their show during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Several hundred guests were able to see the very latest fur creations by Oh! in an old factory.
In the heart of Copenhagen in an abandoned factory near the city’s busy skater halls, Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur held their fashion show, which revolved around the theme of “urbanity”. Thus, the exclusive fur garments were presented in a raw setting with a concrete runway and old concrete columns as the backdrop. Apart from presenting the latest fur creations from Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur, the show encouraged the audience to explore urban surroundings, to move themselves into unfamiliar surroundings and rethink their perspectives on whatever they may look at. - First and foremost, this is a cool location. The rawness of this place plays well against the collection, said Mads Emil Grove Møller, Fashion Editor at Dossier, a fashion magazine aimed at men and published by Elle Denmark. He was supported by Cecilie Ingdal Christiansen, Editor in Chief of Elle Denmark. - It is incredible to see that you have gone from an accessory brand to a fashion brand, she commented after viewing the fur creations made by Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur. Refreshing interpretation of fur - I thought it was very refreshing to see fur interpreted in a slightly different way. It was more accessible than the normal
padded jacket with fur lining, Cecilie Ingdal Christiansen added.
CECILIE INGDAL CHRISTIANSEN, EDITOR IN CHIEF OF ELLE DENMARK, AFTER VIEWING THE FUR CREATIONS MADE BY OH! BY KOPENHAGEN FUR. - IT IS INCREDIBLE TO SEE THAT YOU HAVE GONE FROM AN ACCESSORY BRAND TO A FASHION BRAND
use of fur, said Frederik Lentz Andersen, Fashion Editor at Euroman. A particularly noteworthy fur item were the fur slippers which were a more modern part of the lineup. However, much of the collection also drew on inspiration from classic, iconic fashion eras - which Elle Denmark’s Editor noticed. - I noticed some incredibly fine references – looking to the past, towards the 60s and Jackie O, but also items that were incredibly modern. For instance, it was really cool to see your
Solidifying identity Over the last few years Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur has worked hard to establish itself as a brand with its own identity - and the hard work is slowly paying off. Oh! is becoming well-known for the willingness to mix fur with other materials and push design limits. - There was a good energy in the styling and, as we know, Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur is capable of integrating fur into other designs and materials in new ways, Mads Emil Grove Møller added. Fashion trade focus on sustainability Sustainability is a focal point that the fashion media are becoming increasingly aware of. Therefore, using the mink skins to the full was an important perspective for Elle Denmark’s Editor in Chief. - Much of the fur which might have been wasted is actually used on cuffs, collars, as small charms on bags and so on. I really appreciate that you use all parts of the fur skins, said Cecilie Ingdal Christiansen.
By Michael Abilon
N O RW EGIAN TYP E
NORWEGIAN TYPE DRAWS A GLOBAL CROWD TO KOPENHAGEN FUR Farmers and buyers from all over the world gathered on the eve of the February auction to toast the new Norwegian Type collection at a special sneak peek event before skins go on sale in March. Of special interest were new mutation foxes – variations and cross-breedings of existing types yielding different colours and patterning.
- I think it’s really great. I had only expected to see silver fox, but it was nice to see they had all of the mutations and Shadow Fox. I had expected the quality would be higher than average, and it lives up to that, said buyer Jakob Dreyer. Innovative fox farmers have worked meticulously for decades with their quality skins, and their work has yielded many different colours. So, there was special excitement to see the new Lavender Fox mutation developed by Finnish breeding expert Jan Bertlin. - To make good colours that can get better prices. It’s not a matter of chance
INNOVATIVE FOX FARMERS HAVE WORKED METICULOUSLY FOR DECADES WITH THEIR QUALITY SKINS, AND THEIR WORK HAS YIELDED MANY DIFFERENT COLOURS.
for me. I started in 1977, 41 years ago. That’s a very long time and that’s why I can do it, Bertlin explained. Many mutations were discovered in Norway and went on to become some of the more common types of foxes we know today, such as Arctic Marble Fox and Pastel Fox, both well shown in the Norwegian Type collection. - Blue fox is very common, and new colours sell better than the old ones, Bertlin said. - I have now done this for Palomino Frost, Apricot, Lavender and Amber Frost using the same male that I have combined with other types of foxes. I
N O RW EGIAN TYP E
Considering that many of Kopenhagen Fur’s farmers have been in the trade for many years, one could easily say that they are experts when it comes to assessing sorting and grading systems. And fortunately, the visitors were pleased with the presentation of how Norwegian Type will be graded at Kopenhagen Fur. Pictured above is a high quality fox style at Kopenhagen Fur Studio.
know what I get. But the quantities are very small in the beginning, so I have to have other farmers to be able to make it saleable.” For now, he says he has developed enough colour variations for the market, but he is still optimistic about the future. - I think it’s still possible to get new mutations, but for the moment it’s enough, he quipped. International guests Considering that many of Kopenhagen Fur’s farmers have been in the trade for many years, one could easily say that they are experts when it comes to
assessing sorting and grading systems. And fortunately, the visitors were pleased. Berk Cansoz, who visited Kopenhagen Fur from Turkey for a two-week course was impressed by the exhibition. - During the sorting course I learned about Kopenhagen Fur’s grading system for foxes. I think it’s good for us in Turkey. We use some now to make colours and dye trimmings as well as making waistcoats for Russian customers, he said. One fox farmer even came from Finland just to see the event and speak to Norwegian Type farmers.
- I wanted to see the quality sorting and grading system, Robin Lindgren said. He is considering selling skins at Kopenhagen Fur in the future. Norwegian fox farmer Reidar Helgesson was happy to demonstrate the grading system. - Everything looks very good. The room, the show, the setting, the models. There are more varieties, and I think… the grading system we use here is perfect to show Norwegian Type, he said.
By Ethan Kent Bilby
FU R R I E R PORTRAIT
FURRIER PORTRAIT: A CREATIVE WINTER The talented furriers at Kopenhagen Fur Studio, Sofie Løvenstjerne and Maria Ottosen Ebbensgaard, assisted the vivid designer Edda Gimnes with three styles using Norwegian Type in her designs. The collaboration is a part of Kopenhagen Fur’s new co-operation with Norwegian Fur Breeders Association.
From March 2018, customers will be able to buy exclusive Norwegian Type fox skins at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions. At Kopenhagen Fur Studio, furrier Maria Ottosen Ebbensgaard recently assisted renowned and acclaimed designer Edda Gimnes obtaining the right expression in her collection of three fur coats made to promote the fox skins. It was never entirely obvious that Maria Ottosen Ebbensgaard would become a furrier. She initially began as a hairdresser after which she decided to become a tailor. It was at her training, that she experienced the furrier trade. Furriers were studying in the room
ALL FURRIERS WORK DIFFERENTLY, SO WE CONTINUOUSLY LEARN FROM EACH OTHER. THE FINAL PRODUCT IS COMPLETELY DEPENDENT OF THE INDIVIDUAL FURRIER’S METHODS
adjacent to her and she found herself drawn towards their work. She was fascinated by the notion that there is no single correct method for accomplishing a task. - The same sharply drawn lines don’t exist. All furriers work differently, so we continuously learn from each other. The final product is completely dependent of the individual furrier’s methods, says Maria Ottosen Ebbensgaard Her fascination led her to pursue a career as a furrier and shortly after that she began as an apprentice with furrier Steen Bergstrøm. That is now almost 13 years ago. Under his
FU R R I E R PORTRAIT
From left: Designer Edward Crutchley and furrier Maria Ottosen Ebbensgaard. Maria assisted designer Edda Gimnes over the winter, but during this time she also assisted Edward Crutchley with his collection.
tutorage, she learned to work with many different skins and she participated at Kopenhagen Furâ€™s auctions often, to assist him with the purchase of skins. She graduated in 2007, and is now a very experienced and skilled furrier. Kopenhagen Fur Studio x Edda Gimnes Four-and-a-half years ago, she began as a furrier at Kopenhagen Fur Studio. And she has had the opportunity to work with many creative designers during this time. Most recently, she and her colleague, Sofie LĂ¸venstjerne, assisted designer Edda Gimnes with her
Norwegian Type skins in focus in a style designed by Edda Gimnes. Maria was fascinated by the way Edda draws her details for the designs with her left hand even though she is right handed, and then print the drawings on the fabric. Notice the printed buckles and pockets on the Norwegian Type style.
latest collection, which features Norwegian Type. This latest work took place during the winter, when Maria also assisted London-based designer Edward Crutchley. - It is exiting to work with Norwegian Type. They possess tremendous volume, so we can create a dramatic look. We can actually make many different looks, because the skins are so full with long hairs. We can make a deep 3D effect and make the fox fur look feathery and we can also make it look fuller. Maria describes the designer Edda Gimnes as innovative. She explains
how Edda draws her details for the designs with left hand even though she is right handed, and then print the childlike drawings on the fabric. Instead of an actual buckle she would put on a drawn buckle as seen on one of the Norwegian Type coats from the Kopenhagen Fur x Edda-collection. Maria Ottosen Ebbensgaard is looking forward to working more with the Norwegian Type in the future.
By Sophie Kastrup Andersen
AU CT I O N E E R PO RT RAI T
KASPER SCOTT REINBACHER THE INTERNATIONAL SALESMAN He is responsible for the international sales at Kopenhagen Fur, which means many days of travelling in order to establish new markets in countries such as South Korea, Japan and Russia. He has worked in the fur auction house since 2006 and has swung the gavel during the auctions for eight years. Meet Kasper Scott Reinbacher who, prior to his debut as auctioneer, imagined the job to be an easy one. He was quickly proven wrong!
How did you become an auctioneer at Kopenhagen Fur? I started as a spotter during the auctions and therefore the job as an auctioneer was a natural development for me. The farmers produce the world’s finest skins. After they have been graded, the auctions are the cherry on the cake in completing the circle in a good way. I thought it was an intriguing podium to step onto - and I still do. What attracted you to the job as auctioneer? The importance of the job is interesting. At the auctions the price of mink is set which is vital to our farmers – our owners. I like the responsibility that comes with the job. On the other hand, there is no doubt that the job is incredibly intensive – everything is determined within a few days; this applies to both farmers and customers. I like the intensity of settling the sales
as correctly and satisfactorily as possible for both parties. What were your thoughts before stepping onto the podium for the first time? Originally, I sat next to the auctioneers
HE IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE INTERNATIONAL SALES AT KOPENHAGEN FUR, WHICH MEANS MANY DAYS OF TRAVELLING IN ORDER TO ESTABLISH NEW MARKETS IN COUNTRIES SUCH AS SOUTH KOREA, JAPAN AND RUSSIA. 24
as a spotter watching them work, and I thought that it looked rather easy. However, when I stepped onto the podium I could tell that it definitely wasn’t. It looks easy because I have very skilled colleagues. When people are good at something, they make it look easy. So you weren’t nervous before going onto the podium? I was definitely excited – I was very nervous when I stood on the podium and realized that it wasn’t quite as easy as I had thought it would be. Before I began as auctioneer I wondered why the price was repeated so many times. I thought that if you said the price once, then the customers would have heard it and that would be enough. But if you only say the price once the room goes extremely quiet, because you are the only one speaking.
AU CT I O N E E R PO RT RAI T
Before Kasper Scott Reinbacher became an auctioneer, he wondered why the price was repeated so many times. He soon found out why.
Auction days are long – what do you do to keep up your energy? Generally, I get a lot of energy from being with people and you have plenty of people around you at the auctions. One of the bonuses of being an auctioneer is that everybody knows you at the auctions – so I have a conversation with almost everyone attending. This also means that I am exhausted when the auction is over, because I have talked too much for a long time. What is the funniest thing you have experienced as auctioneer? The funniest thing… I don’t know. When I
go home and tell my wife a funny story from the auction room, she says “Is that funny?” (Laughing), I guess my funny stories are exclusively for insiders. Funny things occur daily but I cannot think of a specific event. In my experience, though the auctions are very serious, there is still room for humour when we sell, which I find very encouraging. How do you experience this humour at the auctions? Well, there have been small misunderstandings that happen when things go too fast, and there are also some funny remarks in the room. The
setting is really intensive and I think I use humour to vent some of the pressure that customers and farmers are experiencing – but also, of course, the pressure that I feel as an auctioneer. This may be a difficult question, but how long are you planning to continue as an auctioneer? I will keep going for as long as I can contribute to making a difference on the auctioneering team.
By Louise Boe
E V E N T S I N C O P E N H AG E N
10-23 MARCH 2018 Sunset Boulevard, Starlight Express, Aspects of Love, Love Never Dies, Song and Dance and Requiem. The extraordinary voices of four internationally acclaimed soloists, a singing and dancing ensemble and a live orchestra take the audience on an emotional roller coaster ride through a highlight of Webber’s renowned musicals.
15 MARCH The Old Stage kglteater.dk
THE BARBER OF SEVILLE
In Martin Lyngbo’s interpretation, the Barber of Seville becomes a tale of empathy and humanity in an age of tyranny, when everyone has their own agenda. There will be chaos and love, vengeance and celebration, pride and shame, feast and failure accompanied by laughter, smiles, anger and irritation.
The beautiful Raymonda is betrothed to a Hungarian noble, but a Moorish prince tries to win her favour. When she does not respond to his courtship, he feels inclined to resort to harsher measures, but Raymonda receives help from higher powers.
The Barber of Seville is performed in Italian with Danish subtitles.
Raymonda is a spectacular and extravagant piece– all brought together by Aleksander Glazunov’s fabulous music.
10, 14, 17 AND 22 MARCH The Opera kglteater.dk
THE ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER GALLA A show conceived to honour one of the greatest musical composers of our time with excerpts from his masterpieces such as The Phantom of the Opera, Cats, Jesus Christ Superstar, Evita,
THE MAGIC FLUTE Mozart’s beloved fairy tale opera is back at the Royal Danish Opera House. The Magic flute has always been one of Mozart’s greatest operas. The story alternates between gravity and playfulness, fairy tale and drama, while the music gives us one opera hit after the other. The Magic Flute is performed in German with Danish subtitles.
11 MARCH The Opera kglteater.dk
13, 16 AND 20 MARCH The Old Stage kglteater.dk
E V E N T S I N C O P E N H AG E N
10-23 MARCH 2018 CONCERT
HARRY STYLES “LIVE ON TOUR” Harry Styles is an English singer, songwriter and actor. He rose to stardom as a member of the boy band One Direction.
works inspired by antiquity, including the sculptures by the French artist Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux.
UNTIL 2 SEPTEMBER Glyptoteket glyptoteket.com
In 2016, Styles signed a recording deal as a solo artist. His first solo single, “Sign of the Times” reached number one in the UK and number four in the US. Styles made his acting debut in Christopher Nolan’s war film Dunkirk last year.
Royal Arena royalarena.dk
The swan is one of the most elegant animals of the animal kingdom, and it was a stroke of genius when, in the late 1800s, someone thought of letting female ballet dancers use their long limbs and flexible curves to bring to life the swans of Swan Lake.
The young, ever searching prince Siegfried falls in love with the loveliest, white swan princess, Odette, but he allows himself to be led astray by her black counterpart, Odile. One is purity and poetry the other is seduction and depravity.
15 AND 18 MARCH The Opera kglteater.dk
HIGH ON LUXURY. LOST TREASURES FROM THE ROMAN EMPIRE In 1830, a French farmer strikes something truly exceptional with his plough: a Roman hoard of treasure! The Berthouville hoard consists of some 60 objects of silver: drinking cups, bowls and statues which had lain in the ground for more than 1,500 years. Recently the silver has been restored and when the objects are exhibited at the Glyptotek in the coming spring, it will be the first time the treasure has been exhibited in Europe outside France. As a reflection of luxury through time, the room will display not only works from the ancient world but also modern
THE CHAINSMOKERS: EURO MEMORIES… DO NOT OPEN TOUR The Chainsmokers is an American DJ/ production duo consisting of Alex Pall and Andrew Taggart. The duo achieved a breakthrough with their 2014 song “#Selfie”, which was a top twenty single in several countries. “Don’t Let Me Down” became their first top 5 single and won the Grammy Award for Best Dance Recording. They have also won two American Music Awards. The album” Memories…Do Not Open” has been streamed more than 1.4 billion times globally.
10 MARCH Royal Arena royalarena.dk
GRAND JÃ˜RGEN SIMONSEN FASHION SHOW AND EXHIBITION
FAS H I O N S H O W A N D E X H I B I T I O N
GRAND JØRGEN SIMONSEN FASHION SHOW AND EXHIBITION World renowned haute couture designer visited his birth town in Denmark with a large fashion show followed by an exhibition.
Jørgen Simonsen is a man whose fame in the international world of fashion knows few boundaries. At the age of 18, he moved to Paris, where he has lived ever since. He committed fully to his dream of designing haute couture. Now, his CV and list of achievements contain titles such as Chief Designer for Givenchy, Chanel, Versace and Valentino. His designs have made the cover of some 40 Vogue front pages and his dresses have adorned the world’s leading actresses at several red-carpet events.
However, an important perspective was added. - Iskrystalprinsessen vol II is an imaginative tale about the Greenlandic national dress seen with my eyes from my home city, Paris, and with an haute couture angle, says Jørgen Simonsen. The brand-new collection shown in January was inspired by cultures from several parts of the world. Styles, inspired by the Inuit culture, also have design elements from Roma gipsies along with those from mid-20th century French haute couture.
Inspired by Greenland There was lots of praise and applause when Jørgen Simonsen unveiled his latest collection in front of 500 guests during his show “Iskrystalprinsessen vol II” (Ice Crystal Princess Vol II). This fashion show was his latest reflections of Jørgen Simonsen’s first encounter with Greenlandic culture.
Fashion is art For the many people in Denmark who are interested in fashion and who did not get a chance to see the fashion show, there is still a chance. All of Jørgen Simonsen’s styles from his show, Iskrystalprinsessen vol II, will be displayed in Denmark commissioned by The Nordic Institute in Greenland.
An exhibition of fur clothing may seem peculiar to some, but to Jørgen Simonson it echoes his sentiment about haute couture. - Couture is about opening people’s eyes to well-crafted products which are perfect in every detail and also about making people aware of them. It is suffocating and mediocre when everything simply should have been finished yesterday and only be priced as two for one. This is about changing that sentiment and awakening something in people, he says. It is unlikely that the Danish-born Parisian has made his final clothing exhibition. In Denmark alone, he has exhibited three times before.
By Michael Abilon
SC H E D U L E
KOPENHAGEN FUR AUCTION SCHEDULE & OFFERINGS 2018 INSPECTION AUCTION
MINK Black Brown Mahogany Pastel Pearl Beige Golden Pearl Silverblue Sapphire Violet Palomino White Blue Cross Red Cross Black Cross Various Cross Redglow Blue Iris Jaguar Stardust Various mutations
OTHER TYPES Chinchilla Rex Rabbit Foxes Swakara Seal skins
Breeders and Breeders Lowgrades will be offered in June in the types and sizes where regular winterskins are also available.
Three months free storage in China and Cambodia
HOTEL KONG ARTHUR
COURTYARDS IBSENS HOTEL
VIVACIOUS, qUIRKY AND COmFORTABLE BOUTIqUE HOTELS IN COPENHAGEN Ibsens and Kong Arthur are a blend of old and new: The interior design are modern, but the original character of the old buildings are beautifully preserved. There’s a buzzy lounge/bar area, and outside seating in the courtyard. Hotel Kong Arthur has a spa and fitness room. Two in-house restaurants are serving both hotels – Pintxos, serving up good tapas, and the more upmarket La Rocca, with a menu of Italian classics. For breakfast both hotels feature a mostly organic buffet spread that follows New Nordic principles, concentrating on seasonal, sustainable and local produce. Book through Kopenhagen Fur. 32
Kalvebod Brygge 53,
Arni Magnussons Gade
1560 København V
2, 1577 København
RADISSON BLU ROYAL
Ørestads Blvd. 114-118,
Amager Blv. 70,
Nørre Søgade 11, 1370 København K www.arthurhotels.dk
For individual reservations you can change or cancel 48 hours prior to arrival, or you will be charged with the first night. For group reservations :
CROWN PLAZA HOTEL
HOTEL KONG ARTHUR
NEW cancellation policy for 2018 :
SCANDIC CPH Vester Søgade 6, 1601 V www.scandichotels. com
SCANDIC GLOSTRUP Roskildevej 550,
SKT. PETRI - 5 STARS
Kalvebod Brygge 5,
BELLA SKY COMWELL Center Boulevard 5,
Until 45 days before the first arrival, the reservation can be cancelled without any cost. After this date a maximum of 50% of the original reservation can be cancelled after the below mentioned rules: - Until 15 days before the first arrival, 50 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost - Until 10 days before the first arrival, 25 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost - Rooms not cancelled seven days before the first arrival will be charged 100 % Date changes will be accepted without any cost on the condition that the hotel has available rooms on the alternative dates. If the rooms, as a result of lack of available rooms, are cancelled, the hotel refers to the above listed cancellation terms.
We urge you to make your hotel reservations as early as possible.
C O N TAC T S - F O R C U S T O M E R S MANAGEMENT
Jesper Lauge Christensen Exec. V.P. Commercial + 45 4326 1207
Jesper Uggerhøj CEO +45 1234 5678
Inge Østermand Secretary +45 4326 1042
Brian Tufvesson Head of Customer Dept.
Birgit Friis Secretary
+45 4326 1401
+45 4326 1431
Christiane Rautenberg Key Account Manager +45 4326 1442
Anne Lunn Key Account Manager
Ahmet Aydin Key Account Manager
Louise Heimann Key Account Manager
+45 4326 1443
+45 4326 1441
+45 7213 5028
Paul Pedersen Chief Auctioneer
Per Knudsen Chief Auctioneer
Klaus Harlev Auctioneer
+45 4326 1203
+45 4326 1208
Stig Reinhold Sales Manager, Auctioneer +45 4326 1209
Kasper S. Reinbacher VP, International Sales +45 4326 1422
Lars Skjoldegaard Auctioneer
James Han Head of Logistic
Violette Zhang Head of Communication +86 186 1830 1827
Annette Hindborg Key Account Manager +45 4326 1440
+45 4326 1415
+45 4326 1021
BEIJING OFFICE Chris Cui President of Kopenhagen Fur China +86 139 1093 7964
Felix Yan Head of Sales and Marketing +86 186 1006 6081
+86 136 9367 8524
Andy Chen Head of Administration +86 159 0143 7370
GLOBAL FUR LOGISTICS
Søren Valentin Coo & Executive Vice President +45 2268 0920
Christian Sander Vice President, Supply Chain +45 2795 7057
Line Spang Shipping Manager
Karina Kjær Nielsen Shipping Coordinator
+45 4326 1472
+45 7213 2845
Nina Agerlin Burchard Shipping Coordinator +45 7213 2842
KOPENHAGEN FUR STUDIO
Henriette Glæsel VP, Marketing
Julie Maria Iversen VP, Design & Creativity
+ 45 2476 9177
+45 2268 0974
QUALITY DEPARTMENT Kim Baruel Erichsen Quality Manager + 45 4326 1310
AREA MANAGERS Andrej Rumjancev Area Manager, Russia +45 4326 1103
Lone Lyhne Technical Quality Manager +45 2268 0991
Leo Boutis Area Manager, Greece +30 693 242 5858 firstname.lastname@example.org
Kathrine Engberg Front Office Manager
Line Jensen Receptionist
+45 4326 1062
+45 4326 1280
C O N TAC T S - F O R FA R M E R S E-mail: email@example.com Phone: +45 4326 1255
fax: +45 4326 1299
Louise Weile Vp sales/Farmer relations
Peter Smit Area Manager North America
Tel: +45 43 26 14 04 Mobile: +45 22 68 09 26 firstname.lastname@example.org
Mobile: +31 621 143637 email@example.com
Christine Otzen Market Coordinator
Per Knudsen Area Manager North America
Tel: +45 43 26 12 04 firstname.lastname@example.org
Tel: +45 43 26 12 08 Mobile: +45 22 68 09 08 email@example.com
Bryan Flinn DSV Air & Sea Inc. - Halifax
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, B2W 6E2 Canada
P.O. Box 28056
Tel: 902-433-2025 Mob: 902-402-4599 Fax: 902-433-1068 firstname.lastname@example.org www.dsv.com
Prompt day of the March auction is Friday, 13 April 2018.
Infelber (Exports) Ltd 4 Elthorne Road, London N19 4AG Tel +44(20) - 7281 1966
Fax +44(20) - 7281 2398
Eurasia Furs Ltd Unit O, 10/Kaiser Estate Phase III 9-11A Hok Yuen Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, HK Tel +852 2311 9803
E-mail Eurasia88@biznetvigator.com 36
Fax +852 2721 3081
Published on Mar 8, 2018