ELLE Canada - April 2025

SHOP CANADA LOCAL BRANDS TO LOVE

MADE-TOORDER FASHION

SOPHIE NÉLISSE IS MAKING MOVES

COVER STORIES

STYLE Get to know these up-andcoming Canadian designers.

Is made-to-order the future of fashion?

The best green products out there—as chosen by leading industry pros. BY

STYLE & FASHION

The rise of pre-owned handbags. BY

STYLE It’s hard to resist upcycledclothing brand Bettter.

Ten questions with Lexson Millington.

We act to tackle climate change.

Since 2024 in Canada, we have achieved 100% renewable energy on our main sites: head office, manufacturing plant and distribution center. This ambitious goal has been achieved through the use of renewable natural gas and hydroelectricity, 100% offset by renewable energy certificates.

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

58 BEAUTY How to finally love your hair texture au naturel no hot tools needed.

BY JILLIAN VIEIRA

60 BEAUTY Hard water can wreak havoc on our skin and hair. Here’s what to do about it. BY CAELAN MCMICHAEL

62 WELLNESS Cycle syncing is all the rage, but does it actually do anything? BY VICTORIA CHRISTIE

66 BEAUTY This new serum wakes up tired skin with a little help from nature.

BY SOPHIE BANFORD

68 BEAUTY Experts weigh in on the souped-up-beauty-sleep trend. (Think wrinkle patches and mouth tape.)

BY EMILY MACCULLOCH

FEATURES

42 BOOKS Hockey-romance novels are on the rise, and Lexi LaFleur Brown is leading the lineup. BY PATRICIA KAROUNOS

46 SOCIETY Food insecurity is a serious issue in Canada. BY CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET

95 TRAVEL Discover sacred Indigenous land in remote parts of Australia. BY CHLOE BERGE

98 FOOD Take a seat at some of our country’s most environmentally conscious restaurants. BY LYNNE FAUBERT

104 ART These smaller Canadian art institutions are worth seeking out. BY ROBB JAMIESON

106 DESIGN Meet the arbiters of good taste at Goodee. BY JOANNA FOX

108 DESIGN Fendi’s Design Miami 2024 collaboration might have been its best yet. BY JOANNA FOX

110 DESIGN Canadian-made ceramics take centre stage.

ON THE COVER

Sophie Nélisse is wearing a blazer, a shirt and shorts by J.W.Anderson, a tie by Tom Ford, rings by Chopard, socks by Simons and shoes by Bottega Veneta. Photographer and creative director Royal Gilbert Stylist Olivia Leblanc Makeup artist Carole Méthot (U Beauty) Hairstylist Mélanie Guille Digital technician Pascal Fréchette Photographer’s assistants Thibaut Ketterer and Mylène Castilloux Stylist’s assistant Sarah M’bengue Set designer Naomie Tremblay (Studio TB)

Editorial producer Sarah Akli Location Le 9e Montreal EVERY MONTH 17 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 19

PUBLISHER SOPHIE BANFORD

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOANNA FOX

BEAUTY DIRECTOR KATHERINE LALANCETTE

ART DIRECTORS ANNE-SOPHIE PERREAULT, SAMANTHA PUTH

GRAPHIC DESIGNERS MARIE-EVE DUBOIS (INTERIM), LAURENCE FONTAINE (ON LEAVE)

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR SARAH AKLI

DIGITAL DIRECTOR CYNTHIA QUELLET

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGERS PATRICIA KAROUNOS (INTERIM), MELISSA FEJTEK (ON LEAVE)

CONTRIBUTORS

MACA ATENCIO, CHLOE BERGE, RANDI BERGMAN, DUGGAN CAYER, VICTORIA CHRISTIE, LYNNE FAUBERT, JANE FIELDING, MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN, ROBB JAMIESON, CHRISTINE LAPOINTE, EMILY MACCULLOCH, MIMO MAGRI, CAELAN MCMICHAEL, ERICA NGAO, TRUC NGUYEN, NADIA PIZZIMENTI, RENÉE REARDIN, CIARA RICKARD, CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET, LEAH VAN LOON, JILLIAN VIEIRA, INGRIE WILLIAMS

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Turn travel time into quality time

Purchase Power

AT ELLE CANADA , we have always been committed to showcasing local talent. Whether they’re dedicated to the realms of fashion, like Maguire and Beaufille; beauty, such as The Ordinary and Vivier; food and drink products, like Miels d’Anicet and A Sunday in August; or design stores, such as Jacques & Anna and EQ3, our pages are a privileged space in which to celebrate brands that inspire us. And this commitment is now more important than ever.

With everything going on with our neighbours to the south, choosing to buy Canadian is a powerful statement. It’s an act of support for our economy (which is facing major challenges) and an affirmation of our cultural identity, our ability to create and innovate and our readiness to stick together when times are tough. That’s what our country is all about.

Here at the magazine, the new American reality (which inevitably affects our own) only reinforces our desire to consistently present you with local products we love.

More than an editorial choice, it’s a mission that’s reflected in all our pages. We are redoubling our efforts to help you discover all the Canadian treasures that deserve your attention—and your dollars. As a result, we’re killing two birds with one stone, because buying local is both a more ecological, sustainable and environmentally friendly choice—it promotes responsible practices in terms of transportation, raw materials and manufacturing processes—and a way to contribute to building a stronger, more resilient and more united society.

Supporting our creators, our craftspeople and our companies means believing in our future.

Happy reading!

Sophie Banford , publisher @sophiebanford

Weightless hydration that goes deep*

Ride the brown-suede wave into the spring season with a cinched little wink.

NAIROBI BELT, LAMARQUE ($235, LAMARQUECOLLECTION.COM)

Not only is this shampoo-and-conditioner duo— developed by Jason Lee, celebrity hairstylist, colourist and co-owner of Toronto’s Jason Lee Salon—cruelty-free and vegan but it also makes highlighted hair like mine shiny, bouncy, hydrated and super silky.

MELA & KERA BALAYAGE EXCEPTIONNEL SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER ($46 AND $48, ETIKET.CA)

For those out there who love a bold earring style, you’ll be reaching for this pair again and again.

Spring fashion is all about clothing that makes you happy, and this bomber jacket takes the animal-print trend in a cheerful new direction.

FRIDA BOMBER COAT, ELIZA FAULKNER ($595, ELIZAFAULKNER.COM)

LOCAL LOVE

It’s more important than ever to support our homegrown brands, so here are some of editor-in-chief JOANNA FOX current crushes.

These super-versatile light-blue pumps are going to be on repeat in my spring wardrobe.

BAHIA HEELED PUMP, MAGUIRE ($240, MAGUIRESHOES.COM)

Not only is this cute set from Knix comfy but its leak-proof undies are a game-changer.

MESH DEEP V BRA AND ESSENTIAL MESH BIKINI, KNIX ($58 AND $20, KNIX.CA)

JOANNA’S EDIT

Made from recycled paper that’s also washable, this lightweight handbag comes in four shades, including this bright poppy colour.

PAPER PURSE, FREED ($180, FREEDANDFREED.COM)

As much as we all want winter to be over, there are certain things, like this Canada Goose coat (with a detachable pocket that doubles as a purse), that make going out in the cold a whole lot better.

ELIE BLANKET COAT, CANADA GOOSE ($1,795, CANADAGOOSE.COM)

These serum capsules keep my skin soft and supple while reducing signs of aging. They’re also super handy for travel—I just pack one for each day I’ll be away. It’s no wonder they won at the ELLE Beauty Grand Prix last year! G.M. COLLIN CERAMIDE

($136 FOR 80

April

What’s on the ELLE editors’ radar right now.

HEARTS ON FIRE

HEART ON is a retrospective—the first in 40 years—of the work of groundbreaking Toronto-born artist Joyce Wieland (1930–1998). The exhibition is on at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts until May 4 and will travel to the Art Gallery of Ontario (a co-organizer of the show) on June 21. Wieland was an innovator across various media—painting, collage, textiles, printmaking and experimental film—and social justice, feminism, the environment and using art as activism were the driving forces of her practice. With more than 100 works of art and film on display, there’s no better time to get to know a true Canadian creative pioneer whose work has never been more relevant.

MARCH ON WASHINGTON (1963) BY JOYCE WIELAND

RAIN CHECK

Danish lifestyle brand RAINS —known for its sleek outerwear and waterproof bags—opened its first Canadian boutique this past February in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighbourhood. At once welcoming and modern, the intimate 110-squaremetre space was designed to reflect both its West Coast home and the brand’s Scandinavian roots and features artwork by Copenhagen-based designer Jacob Egeberg. RAINS.COM

The Look of Youth

It’s a fact: Retinol is the gold-standard ingredient when it comes to correcting or stalling signs of aging. Also a fact: The active can often irritate skin, especially the ultra-sensitive eye contour, which happens to be the area that tends to age the fastest. Luckily, French skincare brand INSTITUT ESTHEDERM has come up with a solution to the conundrum. Its recently launched Intensive Retinol Eye Lifting Effect Balm combines the clock-reversing power of retinol with a high-tolerance formula specially suited to this delicate zone. The lusciously hydrating balm is proven to visibly smooth the look of wrinkles and reduce puffiness. Eyes appear refreshed and revitalized, like you’ve just had the best sleep of your life, and there’s not the faintest hint of irritation to be found.

PATHFINDER

Growing up in Nipissing First Nation reserve in Northern Ontario, Christian Allaire dreamed of working in fashion. His first exposure to the power of clothing’s ability to communicate was through traditional Indigenous garments like ribbon skirts, beaded belts and elaborate headdresses, all worn with great pride and pageantry during powwows. Allaire now calls Brooklyn home and has worked his way up to being a senior fashion and style writer for Vogue—his childhood map to the fashion world. Allaire’s second book, FROM THE REZ TO THE RUNWAY: FORGING MY PATH IN FASHION (out March 25), tells of his real-life journey to the top of international fashion journalism, from his start as an unpaid intern to his dream job at Vogue . Allaire looks back on his still-young career with love and humour as he continues to break glass ceilings while striving to communicate his unique perspective and highlight Indigenous fashion from around the world. HARPERCOLLINS.CA

TICKLED PINK

Give your cheeks a silky, healthy-looking flush courtesy of YSL BEAUTY. Unlike most powder blushes, the brand’s innovative Make Me Blush Bold Blurring Blush melts seamlessly into skin rather than merely sitting on top. It feels totally weightless and supremely comfortable, never flaking or caking. That’s thanks in part to nourishing ingredients like squalane, which keeps skin soft throughout the day, and hydrating rosehip, which is harvested in YSL Beauty’s Ourika community gardens in Morocco. Even better, the waterproof and sweatproof formula blurs the look of pores and imperfections, making skin appear flawlessly flushed from within. Go ahead, get cheeky.

TRAVEL IN STYLE

Canadian brand MONOS —which just became the first North American luggage brand to achieve B Corp certification—is maintaining its commitment to unparalleled craftsmanship and sophisticated design with its latest release, the Aluminum Collection. Meticulously crafted from premium anodized aluminum, each style—the Carry-On Plus, Check-In Medium, Check-In Large and Trunk—comes in three striking finishes: Caviar Black, Champagne Gold and Aspen Silver. Featuring reinforced aluminum corner guards, whisper-quiet 360-degree wheels and a sleek brushed exterior, each piece in the collection blends form and function and will develop a unique patina over time. To celebrate, Monos tapped Academy Award winner Adrien Brody for a campaign shot by Alexis Gomez in the vibrant streets of Tangier, Morocco. The collection will be released this March exclusively online and at select Canadian stores. MONOS.COM

Circulose Economy

As part of REFORMATION ’s ongoing commitment to swapping out virgin materials for recycled, regenerative and/or renewable alternatives, the Los Angelesbased fashion brand has debuted a small selection of garments containing Circulose, a material made from recycled textile waste. Worn clothing and fabric scraps are turned into a pulp that can be used to create manmade cellulosic fibres—think viscose, lyocell, modal and acetate—which can be spun into yarns and then knit or woven into fabrics. Circulose requires less energy and fewer chemicals to produce compared to both silk and traditional viscose and also helps divert textile waste from landfills. THEREFORMATION.COM

GREENER BEAUTY

In a big move toward a sustainable future, L’ORÉAL CANADA has become the first beauty company to sign the Government of Canada’s Net-Zero Challenge, pledging to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050. The partnership, marked by a signing ceremony with Canada’s minister of environment, Steven Guilbeault, and An VerhulstSantos, president and CEO of L’Oréal Canada, underscores L’Oréal’s ongoing commitment to decarbonization, innovation and green science. With a goal of operating sustainably, L’Oréal Canada has already transitioned all its sites to 100 percent renewable energy and uses FSC-certified paper for packaging. Its Montreal factory aims to be recycling all its industrial water by 2026; its efforts toward that goal have already saved nearly 14 million litres annually since 2013. “The signing of the challenge represents the determination of our teams to transform the beauty market into a more responsible, circular, inclusive and sustainable market,” says Maya Colombani, the brand’s chief sustainability and human rights officer, in a press release. “More than ever, we are committed to a positive impact in Canada, for its economy, for its nature and for all its communities.” LOREAL.CA

Bottomless Refills

KÉRASTASE ’s Elixir Ultime just got even better thanks to a new refillable bottle crafted from 30 percent recycled glass. The luxurious hair oil doubles shine, triples strength and fights frizz for four whole days. The ultra-lightweight elixir is formulated to work on all hair types, from superfine to thick and textured. It sinks right in, serving up heat protection while transforming dull, dry, rough tresses into glossy, smooth strands. And once you’ve used up the last drops, all you have to do is pop in a refill—which is made of 95 percent recycled plastic. Here’s to reducing waste while enjoying endless good hair days. KÉRASTASE ELIXIR ULTIME L’HUILE

PROGRESS REPORT

CARHARTT WORK IN PROGRESS (WIP), a clothing brand that develops collections based on the original Carhartt workwear, recently opened its first Canadian store, on Ossington Avenue in downtown Toronto, offering men’s and women’s readyto-wear and accessories, including a selection of neighbourhood-inspired store exclusives. Designed by brand co-founder Salomée Faeh and Italian architecture firm Andrea Caputo, the minimalist, industrial-like space features details like high ceilings, steel beams and concrete textures for a total sensorial shopping experience. CA.CARHARTT-WIP.COM

STEVEN GUILBEAULT AND AN VERHULST-SANTOS

Fashion Ssense

After the highly anticipated debut of her eponymous label, PHOEBE PHILO is back for another season with Collection B—a perfect mix of elegance, precision and effortless cool. While the brand was previously only available online and in select international locations (with no shipping to Canada), fashion lovers here can now shop the collection IRL at Ssense’s Montreal store or through an appointment with an Ssense personal stylist. Philo seamlessly merges everyday and formal wear, encapsulating a timeless approach to dressing. With a focus on understated luxury, Collection B speaks to the modern woman who craves simplicity, versatility and an air of effortless chic—the very qualities that the brand’s loyal Philophiles have come to adore. SSENSE.COM

ONE AND DONE

VIVIER —a family-owned, Montreal-headquartered pharmaceutical-skincare brand—is celebrating 25 years in the beauty business with the introduction of a new hero product made with no fewer than 47 ingredients. Designed for mature skin, Vivier’s Crème 47 Luxe Concentrate contains a blend of 11 peptides as well as vitamin C, arbutin and an antiaging ingredient called Polyamine-DAB. The hydrating, skin-barriersupporting product is formulated to target hyperpigmentation and inflammation as well as improve skin texture.

SMART SOUNDS

LUCY DACUS —one-third of the indie-rock supergroup Boygenius—is releasing her fourth solo record, Forever Is a Feeling, on March 28. With this album, the American musician delves deep into relationships, touching on everything from domestic bliss to gut-wrenching turmoil, and it’s all anchored by her strong and wistful voice. Dacus’ lyrical storytelling rings loud and clear and is peppered with contemporary references like playing Grand Theft Auto and smoking blunts, which helps bridge her timeless sound with the present. Both of her Boygenius bandmates, Phoebe Bridgers and Julien Baker, contribute their smarts to the record, as do indie stalwarts Blake Mills and Bartees Strange. LUCYDAC.US

SHINING EXAMPLE

CHOPARD’s sustainability mission makes waves across the high-jewellery world.

DIAMONDS, PIONEERING DESIGN and an A-list following—Chopard has made an unforgettable name for itself over its 165-year history. But perhaps the Swiss watchmaking and high-jewellery house’s most treasured facets are its industry-leading sustainability commitments that span responsible sourcing, environmental management, investments in workplace well-being and raising awareness in the industry.

No one knows this direction—and its significant impacts— more intimately than Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard. “We are happy to share the message that a different, more responsible way of doing business is possible,” she says.

Here, Scheufele talks about Chopard’s ambitious sustainability goals, how it has been innovating in this eco realm for over a decade and why its world-class artisans continue to astonish and inspire her.

How does Chopard stand out in the market as a sustainability leader?

“Chopard is an independent, family-owned maison, so we have the freedom to choose long-term strategies that are aligned with our family values. Recently, we received a prestigious EcoInnovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva, recognizing our efforts in this direction. At Chopard, we will continue our journey with new challenges to build a better future. Our clients, especially the younger generations, expect this of us, and it is fundamentally a good thing.”

Chopard has long been innovating in the sustainability space. How far back do the house’s efforts go?

“Chopard unveiled The Journey to Sustainable Luxury in May 2013 at the Cannes Film Festival, when we launched our multi-year program aiming to protect the environment and improve the lives of those at the beginning of the supply chain. We’ve had many significant milestones along the way. One I am particularly proud of was becoming the first maison to use 100 percent ethical gold in the production process of all of our watches and jewellery as of 2018. This means that our gold is sourced sustainably, either from responsible,

mines or from certified recycled gold. These are strong commitments but worth the effort if we are to make a difference.”

What do you envision the ultimate sustainability goal being at Chopard?

“We called it a ‘journey’ because it takes time and patience to achieve and complete. There is still a lot to be done, and with each milestone, we continue to strive further. Last year, we were able to use 80 percent recycled steel in all of our watches, with an ongoing commitment to reach at least 90 percent for our innovative Lucent Steel by 2028. As I always love to say, Rome wasn’t built in a day; it is a long journey, but it is the right one.”

Chopard’s incredibly talented artisans remain at the core of the Chopard name. Have you been able to personally witness these artisans’ skills and methods?

“When I’m not travelling, I spend my time in the ateliers; I even have an office in the High Jewellery Ateliers. I am always amazed by the ingenuity of our artisans, who never fail to transform my most ambitious ideas into reality. The Ice Cube secret watch is a recent example of this: Starting from the drawing, we crafted a daring oversized cuff bracelet made entirely of golden ice cubes, each cut and polished by hand. Our expert artisans created not only a striking piece of jewellery but also incorporated a miniature ‘secret’ watch within it. It’s a remarkable technical achievement that required 800 hours of rigorous work.”

accredited artisanal

SEX APPEAL

The urge to move toward more body-conscious, revealing clothing is back—but with a more interesting edge.

By RENÉE REARDIN

FOR YEARS, WE’VE BEEN REACHING INTO OUR CLOSETS and pulling out anything oversized—and long and drapey and whatever else makes the shape of our body practically imperceptible. We’ve nestled into The Row-inspired blanket coats and stepped into Khaite-esque ankle-grazing dresses in a bid to achieve sophisticated looks that say “I’m dressing not for the male gaze but for the fashion-girl gaze.” But now the tide has shifted—can you feel it? There’s a palpable itch in the air, a desire to don a different silhouette—one that reveals our legs, waist, décolleté and, heck, even our nipples yet still has nothing to do with men.

“We’re definitely moving into more form-fitting clothing again,” says Erica Wark, a Toronto-based stylist whose clients include everyone from therapists and content creators to TV hosts on The Social and Good Morning America. “My clients have been shifting more into skirts and dresses, belting oversized blazers to cinch the waist and rocking the sheer trend.” American stylist Allison Bornstein has noticed the same thing. In a November 2024 episode of Puck’s Fashion People podcast, host Lauren Sherman asked, “This has come up a lot in my reporting but also in these conversations we do on the podcast: Do you find that a lot of women are trying to dress sexier?” And Bornstein replied, “A lot.” In her Zoom styling sessions with women across the globe, “there’ve been five people maybe in the past month that

ALBERTA FERRETTI

VICTORIA BECKHAM

BALENCIAGA

BUT HERE’S THE THING: THIS SEXY STYLE OF DRESSING IS DIFFERENT FROM THE LAST TIME BARE-IT-ALL FASHION WAS TRENDING, IN THE EARLY AUGHTS.

have referenced Sylvie from Emily in Paris,” she said. They want Bornstein to help them achieve “that slinky, sexy” style. This desire to show off the bod hasn’t escaped stylists themselves either. “When I’ve wanted to dress up [lately], I’ve been opting for sheer black tights with short dresses or short shorts and oversized blazers with a tall boot,” says Wark. “For so many years, mostly due to COVID, we all pushed our fashion personalities to the background, but the pendulum is swinging back into femininity, and we’re celebrating our bodies again.”

Some of the biggest trends of spring/summer 2025 are about just that. Think micro-bottoms, transparent dresses and peekaboo fringes. Specifically, underwear-like pieces were presented at Balenciaga, Acne Studios and Carven and were teamed with garter belts, cardigans and blouses, respectively. There were also plenty of hot pants, which we’ve been seeing for a few years now, but this new variety was decked with ruffles at Chloé, was teamed with lace skirts at Fendi and appeared baby-bloomer-inspired at Miu Miu. Sheer dresses that exposed a nipple here or an upper thigh there were seen at Alberta Ferretti, Victoria Beckham and Dolce & Gabbana, and full-fringe skirts—great for gam-flashing—were spotted at Dior, Fendi and Proenza Schouler.

But here’s the thing: This sexy style of dressing is different from the last time bare-it-all fashion was trending, in the early aughts. Although one could argue that we’re seeing a Y2K fashion revival, with people leaning into indie-sleaze style and Paris Hilton’s The Simple Life-era crop tops and micro-skirts, today’s skin-showing trend boasts an awkward edge. “Miu Miu and Prada are going back to what [creative director] Miuccia would define as sexy,” says Vancouver-based fashion historian Natalie Stevenson. The latest collections featured “the weird, quirky mismatch that Prada has become known for.” Prada paired tube tops with business-casual bottoms, for example, and Miu Miu styled its aforementioned baby-bloomer-inspired shorts with tucked-in button-down shirts. “It’s a residual effect from Man Repeller,” says Stevenson, referencing fashion influencer Leandra Medine Cohen’s mid-aughts blog documenting her looks, which were traditionally unappealing to the opposite sex. “That style—the contrast of something so abnormal with something sexy—is interesting because it’s such a female-gaze approach to clothes.”

And that aligns with another reason we’re seeing this type of sexy-mixed-with-awkward dressing: the fact that we now view

gender as a spectrum. “It kind of decentres the sexualization of a woman’s body,” says Stevenson, and that can have an impact on the way one chooses to show off parts of their body. Think Emma Corrin in Saint Laurent’s nipple-peeping olive, cobalt and raspberry number, which they teamed with an unfussy pixie cut at the Berlin premiere of Nosferatu.

Of course, there were different interpretations of sex-focused dressing before the 21st century. In fact, every decade seems to see a rewrite of the definition of “sexy.” According to Stevenson, one of the biggest trends for women during the French Revolution era was sheer chemises that offered a glimpse of the nipple, and in the 1920s, it was the garçon look—boyish frames and short skirts—that was celebrated. Sexyish fashion didn’t return for a few decades, until postwar material regulations subsided, and then in the ’60s and ’70s, we saw complete fashion liberation, with short hemlines and second-skin denim, followed by the ’80s, which brought large-shouldered, fitted-skirt power suits. The ’90s brought the Spice Girls in their itty-bitty clothes paired with skyhigh platforms, and the ’00s leaned toward a more raunchy bimbo style.

In the 2020s, though, people feel more comfortable displaying their bodies than ever before. “The body-positivity movement showed different kinds of bodies, and now people are used to seeing them,” says Stevenson. When we see bodies similar to our own in the media, we feel more comfortable showing off ours too.

Today, the coolest way to wear sexy pieces is by simply weaving them into your current wardrobe, according to Wark. “Take a sheer bodysuit, wear a corseted bustier overtop and pair [that combo] with a trouser,” she says. The trick is to find the pieces and proportions that make you feel comfortable while showing a bit more skin than you might be used to or emphasizing your body shape more. “You could also pop on a sheer or lace dress and put a miniskirt and sweater on top,” she says. Or wear a pair of hot pants with a long jacket and a business-casual top. Dress for yourself—not the male gaze and maybe not even the fashion-girl gaze—and concentrate on what you feel good in.

“I’m really enjoying this new era of not caring about what other people think and doing what I want to do with my wardrobe,” says Wark. “It’s such a freeing experience.” An equally freeing feeling? Going sans pants and bra.

NEXT UP

Many of Canada’s top emerging designers incorporate their values into their work, whether that’s by being eco-conscious, raising awareness for important causes or honouring traditional craftsmanship. Here are some to put on your fashion radar.

By ERICA NGAO

ADHERE TO

With over a decade of experience in outerwear development and design, Vancouverite Alexandra Dean is redefining the industry with Adhere To. Founded in 2022, the brand blends innovation, function and sustainability for high-performance pieces that are designed with circularity in mind.

Dean’s journey began with an internship at Lululemon, where she honed her skills in garment construction and production. During her eight years with the company, she developed a deep passion for outerwear and was drawn to its complexity and technical challenges. “It really stemmed from my foundation in garment development,” she says. Her work designing with leftover materials at Lululemon sparked an enduring commitment to sustainability. “That was my first dive into being more conscious about reducing waste.”

Adhere To’s designs are as versatile as they are innovative. Key pieces, like a lightweight puffer that zips into a waterproof jacket, adapt seamlessly to changing weather. Equally important is the brand’s transparency when it comes to its supply chain, for which it prioritizes environmentally certified materials and responsible sourcing. This approach earned Adhere To a Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards nomination in the sustainability category last year. “My mission is to combine ethics, sustainability, performance and aesthetics without compromise,” says Dean.

ADHERE TO

DESIGNER ALYDAR TWACK-HANSEN OF NENA HANSEN

NENA HANSEN

When Alydar Twack-Hansen started job-hunting after graduating from design school, she never imagined her career would begin with her own brand—let alone from a single shirt. While working at women’s boutique One of a Few in Vancouver’s Gastown neighbourhood, Twack-Hansen showed Michelle Rizzardo, the boutique’s owner, a photo of a shirt she had created: a thrifted men’s button-down customized with adjustable bungee-cord cut-outs at the waist. Rizzardo loved it and encouraged her to make more to sell in the shop.

That shirt became the foundation of Nena Hansen, which references Twack-Hansen’s middle name and is a tribute to her grandmother, whose sewing book first inspired her to try fashion design. Social media and word-of-mouth buzz helped the piece gain popularity, and the orders began to pile up. “I was interested in the sustainability aspect of second-hand and vintage, but I still wanted to look polished and put-together,” says Twack-Hansen.

Three years later, Twack-Hansen’s shirts are stocked in over 50 stores across North America and she still handcrafts every one. While the shirts are made from thrifted materials, her signature cut-out detail remains a constant. “I think [the shirt] changes the model of what people see as sustainable fashion,” she says. “It can be a product just like anything else you would buy at a store; it’s a sustainable brand that functions like any other ready-to-wear brand.”

DORSALI

The word “trend” doesn’t exist in Dorsa Babaei’s vocabulary—at least, it doesn’t when she’s working on a new collection. “We don’t follow trends because, unfortunately, they don’t stick around for a long time, which just doesn’t align with our values,” says the founder. “When I’m designing, I try to take a break from the social world so it doesn’t influence my decisions.”

Babaei’s approach to fashion is inspired by her experiences in different parts of the world. Born in Iran, she spent her formative years in India before studying design in Dubai. In 2020, she found her way to Montreal’s South Shore, where she established her atelier. Babaei’s signature style is a relaxed yet refined combination of breezy silhouettes and elevated fabrics, and for her, the key to designing a piece that feels timeless lies in perfecting the pattern. “It takes us days, weeks or sometimes months to create a beautiful pattern, and we don’t want that to expire in a season,” she says. “The way the collections work so far, they complement each other.” Babaei runs the design, production and marketing while her partner takes care of the sales and operations. Everything is handcrafted locally, and although it’s costly to do things this way, she believes it’s well worth it. “More than sustainable, it’s responsible,” she says. “We think about the process, and we question every little detail. I wouldn’t do it any other way. It’s really worth it to wake up every day and know that everything is fair, [things are] being made here and everyone’s getting paid.”

LINDSAY KING

One of Lindsay King’s guiding principles is giving back to her community— something that led her to a two-decade career in social work, supporting Indigenous children and families. “I wanted to help others heal, along with myself,” says King. “Because I, too, experienced intergenerational trauma.”

As a social worker, King often dreamed of owning a clothing store. She’d been interested in fashion from a young age but chose to pursue a career that seemed more practical. It wasn’t until she took a sewing course during a break from social work that she realized she could sell her own designs. That experience sparked a journey that led to her studying design in Toronto and Florence, Italy.

King, who is Saulteaux, Ojibway and Mohawk and a registered member of Treaty 5 First Nation, invested her compensation from the Federal Indian Day Schools settlement in her eponymous label in 2022. Her signature wool jackets, known for bold Pendleton patterns and impeccable tailoring, had zero returns in their first year.

Now, King is using her new collection—a capsule of eveningwear and suits in shades of red—to bring awareness to the issue of missing and murdered Indigenous women and girls. “If you have a dream and you put energy and attention [into it], eventually you’ll be able to manifest it,” says King. “That’s what happened in my situation, because there were so many things that had to come together for me to be doing what I’m doing now.”

DORSALI

WYNN

Lynne Weare has done it all in fashion: design assistant, stylist, tailor and, now, founder of her own brand, Wynn. A few years ago, the Toronto-based designer was working on production for brands while creating one-of-a-kind custom pieces for magazine editorials after hours. “During the evenings, I was getting stuff that was in my brain out onto patterns, drafting and sewing in my basement, not really thinking that I was making a collection,” she says. She eventually thought, “Why am I working for so many other people when I can just do it for myself?” Using the connections she’d made in the industry to boost engagement, she started posting her designs to Instagram, and people took interest. She decided to go freelance and invested the income she’d made as an on-set tailor into her own brand.

Wynn is an ode to basics that are anything but. Weare’s minimalist, gender-fluid designs play with shapes and cuts in smart, subtle ways that draw people in. For example, her obsession with chaps led to denim bottoms that playfully incorporate the classic cowboywear as an overlay. “They look like [pieces] you can’t buy just anywhere,” she says. Her new collection of dress shirts, which were inspired by the oversized comfort of ’80s officewear and have a collar that extends into a tie, also exemplify her unique aesthetic.

Weare also ensures that she’s embracing a diverse range of bodies, and thanks to her tailoring background, the perfect fit is only a couple of measurements away. In a time when fashion has become a click-and-buy activity, Weare is conscious of not adding to that footprint. She only uses deadstock fabric, and everything she produces is made-to-order. Being an independent designer has its challenges, but she credits her commitment to bringing awareness to the industry’s environmental impact with keeping her going. “Honestly, it’s talking about fashion and sustainability and trying to get the word out there that keeps me motivated.”

NOREN

At Noren, the time-honoured craftsmanship behind fine jewellery is as valuable as the finished piece. Named after husband-and-wife duo Keith Lau and Josephine Liu’s daughter, the Vancouver-based brand blends traditional techniques and innovative technology with a contemporary-design ethos, creating pieces that are both luxurious and functional.

Liu, who has a background in fashion and jewellery design, met Lau while he was running a trade shop with his father, a master goldsmith with more than 60 years of experience. Lau’s father began training back in Hong Kong when he was just a teenager. “He came from an era when there were no computers,” says Lau. “Everything was by hand.”

A trip to Europe, where they admired the unconventional designs of local brands, inspired the couple. Back home, they collaborated with Lau’s father to combine his expertise in hand-forging with modern technology, crafting pieces whose beauty lies in their meticulous construction. Instead of pouring melted metal into moulds, they shape the jewellery from solid metal using techniques such as hammering and cutting, which results in more durable pieces with precise detailing.

The Staple Collection highlights this artistry by layering gold and silver and connecting them through slots that both hold the piece together and enhance the understated beauty of the design. Though more time- and labour-intensive than casting, forging preserves a rare and fading craft. “A lot of the knowledge and experience is going away as these old masters retire,” says Lau. “Growing up, I watched my dad make these really ornate, intricate pieces.” While this know-how is becoming harder to find, Noren is dedicated to keeping it alive.

PHOTOGRAPHY, TED BELTON (WYNN) & ALAN CHAN (NOREN)

NOREN

The Comeback Files BAG BOOM

Amid the rise of designer resale, we explore the vintage bags everyone wants to get their hands on.

By RANDI BERGMAN

AS THE GREAT CARRIE BRADSHAW ONCE SAID, “I like my money where I can see it: hanging in my closet.” When that Sex and the City episode (which, incidentally, began with Carrie ringing in the start of day trading at the New York Stock Exchange) came out in 2003, her shopping habits were seen as the antithesis to being “good” with money. But two decades later, amid a luxury slowdown that has made shoppers much less likely to splurge on new designer fashion and accessories, her rationale seems perfectly rational when you consider the value of vintage: Investing in tangible, timeless pieces of fashion history is not only a form of self-expression but maybe even a smart (or at least not entirely frivolous) financial strategy too.

Vintage bags are a case in point, from the Balenciaga Le City bag, which has been resurrected from its slouchyyet-structured aughts glory and made its way back onto Kate Moss’ arm, to the battered Hermès Kelly bags the Olsen twins used to tote around New York, now perceived as the ultimate in insouciance in endless TikTok odes. The appeal of these bags, which for most people can be credited to an unending desire to scratch the itch of nostalgia, the need for something rare in a crowded market and a shift in focus toward sustainable options, has begun to eclipse that of something fresh off the runway. According to a report by

management consulting firm Bain & Company, the secondhand-luxury-goods market grew to an estimated value of $71.3 billion in 2024, with sales increasing by 7 percent and outpacing those of new fashion goods.

“Today, contemporary luxury fashion is sometimes questioned, but vintage has enduring value,” says Sophie Hersan, co-founder and fashion director of Vestiaire Collective, a resale platform based in Paris. “Our community [shops] vintage bags because they know they are getting a unique and authentic piece with quality craftsmanship.” Plus, it’s an entrée into the world of designer at (usually) a fraction of the cost. Le City bags, for instance, which Balenciaga recently reissued, start at $2,490 for the smallest size. On Vestiaire, they start around $700. While the new versions may trend for a season or two, the value of the originals “still holds strong in the vintage market because they are linked to an era and a designer,” says Hersan. (The Le City was launched in 2001, a hugely successful period for Balenciaga, by the house’s then creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière.)

With the luxury resale market only getting hotter, the floodgates have opened for even more resale platforms and vintage dealers. Here’s a guide to shopping the vintage designer handbags that are trending now—and always.

BALENCIAGA LE CITY BAG CAMPAIGN (REISSUE)

BLUE CHIPS

Iconic styles that retain their value or increase in value over time.

CHANEL 2.55

This Chanel signature style has been steadily increasing in price since its debut in 1955, with the most dramatic rise occurring in the past two years, when it doubled to just under $14,000 a pop.

Production is kept low, so even at the new price point, demand is high, meaning that versions on the resale market will continue to rise in price too. This means that a Chanel bag purchased a few years ago in a vintage boutique in pristine condition is most likely worth more now than when it was purchased.

2010/2011 “2.55” BAG, CHANEL ($3,850, MINEANDYOURS.COM)

HERMÈS KELLY

Hermès bags are famously hard to procure, making the thirst for them on the secondary market even higher. According to an e-commerce report put out by luxury marketplace 1stdibs, demand for Hermès increased by 57 percent in 2024 on its platform, mainly for Kellys and Birkins. Vintage Kelly bags often hold more value than the newer versions, which means one is likely to be a wise investment despite the high price tag as it will appreciate over time.

1972 “KELLY” BAG, HERMÈS ($27,778, 1STDIBS.COM)

LUXURY CLASS

Trending and rare styles that have skyrocketed in value.

LOUIS VUITTON SPEEDY

Louis Vuitton has been partnering with artists since the 1990s, but its most famous collaboration, which launched in 2003, was with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. Demand for pieces from the original collection, especially the Speedys—Y2K emblems in and of themselves—has increased by 100 percent over the past decade. Meanwhile, January’s reissue of the collaboration has only increased interest in the originals.

“SPEEDY 30” BAG, LOUIS VUITTON X TAKASHI MURAKAMI ($2,335, POSHMARK.CA)

FENDI BAGUETTE

The pop-culture effect is huge when it comes to the It factor of vintage bags, and Fendi’s iconic Baguette—made famous by Sex and the City—has been embraced by everyone from Gigi Hadid to Rihanna to Sarah Jessica Parker herself, who carried a reissued style on the first season of SATC reboot And Just Like That . Timeless and completely unique, a Baguette is glam idiosyncrasy at its finest.

1997 RE-EDITION “BAGUETTE” BAG, FENDI ($4,495, VSPCONSIGNMENT.COM)

STARTER INVESTMENTS

Accessibly priced styles to start your vintage collection with.

COACH, VARIOUS STYLES

Vintage Coach is so hot right now that the brand has started selling its own vintage as part of its Coach (Re)Loved initiative. “While the brand is affordably priced, its popularity is also tied to the popularity of vintage itself,” says Hersan. Trending styles, like the Soho shoulder bag and the Willis crossbody, are as beloved for their style as for their craftsmanship: Coach leathers are known to hold up fabulously over time, making them a perfect entrée into investment bags.

“ERGO” BAG, COACH ($581, EBAY.CA)

PRADA NYLON

Prada styles from the ’90s have been trending for so long that they feel timeless at this point, and the brand’s nylon range, first launched in 1984, is quintessential for the era. Prada has reissued several nylon styles using recycled materials. Meanwhile, its vintage pieces stand the test of time, and because they are not made with leather, you can usually score one for under $1,000.

BACKPACK, PRADA ($995, VSPCONSIGNMENT.COM)

EMERGING OPPORTUNITY

A vintage style to nab before it becomes the next grail.

YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSE TWO

Originally released in 2008 under then creative director Stefano Pilati, the Muse Two tote has minimal branding save for a small logo on the front clasp, making it a relatively affordable way to join the quiet-luxury movement. The YSL Mombasa, a more extravagant hobo bag complete with a horn handle from the brand’s Tom Ford era, has doubled in price over the past three years, so expect this one to climb.

“MUSE TWO” HANDBAG, YVES SAINT LAURENT ($593, VESTIAIRECOLLECTIVE.COM)

YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSE TWO

CHANEL 2.55

LOUIS VUITTON SPEEDY

HERMÈS KELLY

PRADA NYLON

FENDI BAGUETTE

COACH ERGO

Be Better

Fashion-industry veteran

JULIE PELIPAS is giving the world a whole new way to look at upcycling.

By NADIA PIZZIMENTI

JULIE PELIPAS’ PERSONAL STYLE is as laid-back as it comes. There is nothing flashy or loud about it, but when she walks through a crowd (like the masses at Fashion Month), you notice. You notice the exceptional tailoring of her clothing, which is usually loose and oversized; the attention to detail, like effortlessly layered dress shirts or double leather belts wrapped around low-slung trousers; and, most importantly, the ease, comfort and confidence with which she moves in this uniform. It’s exactly this way of dressing that serves not only as her personal signature but also as the basis of Bettter, her groundbreaking upcycling brand.

A former stylist and fashion director at Vogue Ukraine , Pelipas is no stranger to the dizzying speed and excess of the fashion industry. “As I became more aware of [its] environmental impact, I realized that I needed to take a more proactive role in making change,” says Pelipas. “[I knew that] I could use my experience, knowledge and network to build something that would challenge the status quo. Bettter was born out of a desire to address the excessive production and waste in fashion and create a model that serves both style and sustainability.” Pelipas and her team believe that all the clothes we will

ever need have already been produced (and overproduced) by now, so they decided to do something that has never been done before: upcycle fashion waste on an industrial scale to create extremely fashionable, covetable clothing.

So how does it all work? “We have to continuously optimize every stage of garment reproduction,” explains Pelipas. “Working with real products and data, we collect knowledge, experience and feedback, which we then convert into our proprietary technology: Smart Design Algorithms, which are the result of this ever-evolving process. They are our unique invention—they didn’t exist before.” SDAs, as they call them, are used to transform previously worn garments and luxury deadstock plucked from big fashion players and no-name factories that need to deal with huge amounts due to overproduction. A collection narrative is defined, and then prototypes are designed, tested and produced. The final piece is finished with a “Bettter Passport,” a label sewn into every garment that includes information on the sourcing, production and history of the garment.

Clothing production certainly has its challenges, but the mindset around upcycling is a battle all its own. “I think upcycling typically has this reputation for being more patchwork and kind of hippie, but

JULIE PELIPAS

when you see it at a higher level of design, it takes things to a whole new level,” says Kelly Drennan, founder of Fashion Takes Action, a non-profit organization aiming to remove barriers to sustainability through education, awareness, research and collaboration. “There’s a lot of deadstock out there sitting in warehouses and not getting used, and eventually it’s just being thrown away or burned. [Brands] working with that material in a unique and forward-fashion way is really exciting to see happening.”

Environmental efforts aside, Bettter’s clothes are just so good. The majority of its offerings—including impeccably made suits and separates—look as if they were plucked directly from Pelipas’ personal closet. Suits are a sartorial mainstay for the founder; she’s been inspired by them since she swiped one of her grandfather’s at a young age and made it her own. “When I was doing research on the history of men’s suits, I was fascinated by the smart construction behind them [and how] it could serve any body type and make any man look better,” she explains. “I thought I should bring this justice to women’s wardrobes, as a modern woman’s world goes beyond showing off her curves and other features—there’s a huge demand for dressing smart and functional with style.” Most of the pieces in the collections are made with versatility in mind and can be worn multiple ways, making them adaptable to different occasions and moods.

“I THINK UPCYCLING TYPICALLY HAS THIS REPUTATION FOR BEING MORE PATCHWORK AND KIND OF HIPPIE, BUT WHEN YOU SEE IT AT A HIGHER LEVEL OF DESIGN, IT TAKES THINGS TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL.”

– KELLY DRENNAN , founder of Fashion Takes Action

The Toronto clothing boutique Absolutely Fabrics is the first Canadian retailer to carry the brand. “The fact that they are first and foremost a beautiful and exciting brand is wonderful, but when you add to that the sustainability component, it’s a no-brainer,” says owner Kaelan Haworth. “They are upcycling at scale, which has never been done before. If they are successful, it has the potential to change the way brands approach production and hold others accountable.” This is something Bettter is working toward through collaborations with larger brands like Fila, Gieves & Hawkes and Zegna (one of its deadstock sources) as well as previously launched partnerships with Moda Operandi and Luisaviaroma. “I hope to inspire a broader movement within the industry toward transparency and responsibility,” says Pelipas. “Ultimately, my goal is for Bettter to be a catalyst for change, showing that fashion can be both beautiful and ethical.”

BETTTER ICON COLLECTION

BETTTER X GIEVES & HAWKES

THE WAITING Game

Is made-to-order fashion the solution to the excesses of an industry that produces—and throws away—an ever-expanding volume of garments?

By MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN

Everything designer Cecilie Bahnsen makes feels delicate, poetic and resolutely feminine. There’s romance built into her voluminous, sculptural pieces, many of which are embellished with dreamy billows, perfectly placed bows and puffed sleeves. The collections the Danish designer dreams up for her eponymous brand could be considered a manifestation of the essence of Scandinavian style: minimalist, bold and cool as hell.

The Cecilie Bahnsen workshop, which is in the heart of Copenhagen’s creative Østerbro district, has been quite busy. Over the past year, the team have been working on creating the 20-odd pieces—including seasonal garments, bridal gowns and items inspired by the brand’s archives—that make up their made-to-order collection. Should you order something, you’ll have to be patient—there’s a wait of about eight to 12 weeks, making the label an outlier in an industry that’s increasingly driven by shorter seasons, instant gratification and an allergy to moderation.

The approach Bahnsen is leaning into is neither new nor innovative; rather, it’s a return to the past and to a model that treats garment-making as an artisanal endeavour. It’s a stark contrast to ready-to-wear fashion, which exploded in the late 1960s after spending nearly a century on simmer. This rise came about thanks to a radical shift that followed Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1968 retirement—the king of couture had only put his energy toward made-to-order creations and couldn’t stomach the idea of fashion being standardized and produced in large quantities (an aversion that would eventually lead to the temporary closure of his fashion house). A few decades later, in the 1990s, the bigger/faster/trendier fashion-business model would take the industry by storm. And just like that, we forgot where we came from. Haute couture houses, tailors and bridal-gown designers did not, however, and they’ve kept the old ways alive, albeit only for a handful of clients.

Today, the clothing industry churns out nearly 150 billion new pieces every year, 15 to 45 billion of which are never sold, according to a 2023 report by trend-forecasting company WGSN and OC&C Strategy Consultants. “We’ve completely lost sight of the true value of a garment,” says Montreal designer Elisa C-Rossow. At the helm of her eponymous eco-responsible fashion label, she mainly offers made-to-order and made-tomeasure clothing to both soften the environmental impact of her collections and guarantee a perfect fit. She doesn’t rely on standard sizes. (Balenciaga would be proud.) When she launched her brand in 2008—back when using organic cotton was the epitome of green fashion—winning over potential buyers with her business model was not so easy. Today, things have evolved and the average client knows more than ever. “They understand that a garment made locally with sustainable, high-quality fabrics—as opposed to fast-fashion pieces—will

last longer,” says C-Rossow, who, alongside a seasoned team, manages to craft a dress in around 10 business days and a coat in 20 with price tags that are on par with those in upmarket ready-to-wear shops.

“There’s something exciting about knowing a piece has been made just for you,” says Jules Volleberg, co-founder of APOC Store, an online multi-brand shopping experience that sells a wide array of made-to-order pieces. “A lot of people are tired of mass-produced fashion and are looking for something

ELISA C-ROSSOW

In theory, made-to-order fashion is rooted in a desire to not overproduce or get ahead of demand.

more personal. Made-to-order offers that—it’s slower, yes, but it feels more intentional. Since launching APOC [in 2020], we’ve definitely seen growing interest.” Rose McMahon, founder of Quebec brand Rightful Owner, agrees. “I get so many incredible emails from women after they receive one of my [made-to-order] pieces—it’s one of the most rewarding parts of my job,” says McMahon, who is always finding ways to reduce the environmental impact of her brand. “I never want to add more stuff to the world that isn’t going to be used. What a burden that would be!”

In theory, made-to-order fashion is rooted in a desire to not overproduce or get ahead of demand. It’s not about apathy; in fact, it’s quite the opposite. There’s a hunger for change—a quiet revolution bubbling beneath the surface. But that’s just theory; in the real world, things tend to get messier. “There are a number of fast-fashion brands that produce pieces ‘on demand’ that are in no way sustainable, contributing to the massive amount of waste garments that are currently ending up in landfills,” explains Rachel MacHenry, assistant professor of fashion sustainability, decolonization and design at Toronto Metropolitan University. Chief among them is Shein, which makes a colossal quantity of bottom-of-the-barrel-quality pieces, exploiting workers and pillaging our planet along the way. Like other fast-fashion labels, the Chinese juggernaut brags about its on-demand production process, testing its new arrivals in small batches before making more in a bid to make sure consumers are truly hungry for it. In practice, however, the company creates more than 7,000 pieces every day, which clearly comes at a significant environmental cost.

Knowledge is power when it comes to not falling into the greenwashed trap of sustainable fashion. “[Made-to-order fashion] may contribute to lowering the volume of waste created by overproduction but only if combined with other sustainability measures,” says MacHenry. Among said measures: using high-quality compostable materials, leaning into ethical and preferably local production and designing garments that last and are easily repaired. Bahnsen, for instance, offers a repair service to prolong the life of her pieces. On the consumer side, when adding to our wardrobe, it’s important for us to take a beat, look within, fall in love and then—and only then—make our purchase. Plus, when you know that a garment was made just for you—worked on by a human-scale team for hours on end—it makes you cherish it even more and for even longer.

CECILIE BAHNSEN

How would you describe your clothing style?

“A mix of ’70s, preppy

Favourite skincare product?

“The face cleanser from Youth to the People.”

If you could steal someone’s wardrobe, whose model and social-media personality Wisdom Kaye’s.”

Where do you get your style inspo?

10 QUESTIONS WITH Lexson Millington

Meet Toronto-based fashioncontent creator @lexonator, who has a natural talent for mixing the old with the new.

By JOANNA FOX

“From old fashion magazines, Pinterest and listening to music and then discovering that musician’s style.” Best style advice you’ve ever received?

“No matter what you’re wearing, self-confidence makes the outfit.”

Designer piece you have been dreaming about lately?

“Lemaire black mules.”

Style hacks everyone should know?

“Play around with different proportions—you might find a more interesting way to style a garment you already own. Also, everyone should have a good-quality fabric shaver.”

Malin + Goetz.”

PUCK LOVE

How LEXI LAFLEUR BROWN ’s passion for hockey and experience in an NHL family led to her debut romance novel.

By PATRICIA KAROUNOS

SOMEWHERE IN LEXI LAFLEUR BROWN’S SEATTLE HOME sits a framed piece of notebook paper from 2015. Scrawled across the sheet in LaFleur Brown’s handwriting are four items—a to-do bucket list of sorts: “get a Ph.D.,” “run a marathon,” “write a b,” which has been crossed out, and, having changed her mind about the hesitation, “write a book” in full. She now has a Ph.D. in education, has long conquered the 42-plus kilometres that make up a marathon and, in March, got to check off the final item on her list when her debut novel, Shoot Your Shot, finally made its way into the hands of readers. “It’s like a dream come true—it really is something I’ve wanted to do for so long,” she says.

If you’re only familiar with LaFleur Brown through her TikTok content, you might not have guessed that becoming an author had been a lifelong goal for her. Known for her sharp and unabashed humour on social media, the Canadian, who is originally from North Bay, Ont., found a new audience on the app when hockey-romance novels became more mainstream on #BookTok. The niche sub-genre is beloved for its swoony tales of hunky men finding love in the unlikeliest of places (think a college hockey player being forced to share rink time with a competitive figure skater or a showboating NHL star who can’t stop thinking about a feisty flight attendant on his team’s private plane) and copious (and highly imaginative) sex scenes.

LAFLEUR BROWN)

“I THINK I JUST HAD A MOMENT WHEN I WAS LIKE: ‘OH. I COULD WRITE SOMETHING REALLY FUNNY AND HONEST.”

But the books aren’t exactly concerned with realism—especially when it comes to the inner workings of hockey—and LaFleur Brown, filled with curiosity, saw an opportunity. You see, the new writer comes from a long line of hockey lovers, has played the sport throughout her life (she stopped a few years ago due to a busy schedule and having two young children but hopes to pick it back up) and is married to former NHL pro J. T. Brown. (The American athlete played for the Tampa Bay Lightning, the Anaheim Ducks and the Minnesota Wild and is now a TV analyst for the Seattle Kraken.) She started reading hockey-romance novels to see why people loved them and then began making videos of her hilarious, thoughtful and uncensored—but never rude—takes on each title, sharing whether she enjoyed them as a reader but also as someone with hockey know-how. She also began answering viewer questions about the sport on TikTok and making videos about NHL WAGs (an acronym for “wives and girlfriends” applied to the partners of professional athletes) life.

“I’ve always been interested in growing the game, making it more accessible and getting more people to fall in love with it, so to find out that people were falling in love with hockey through these books was really interesting and exciting,” says LaFleur Brown. “And writing has always been my passion. I think I just had a moment when I was like: ‘Oh. I could write something really funny and honest [in the hockey-romance genre]. Obviously, there’s a market for it, and maybe some of the people who follow me online would want to read it.’”

inclusivity. It also deftly balances insider knowledge (LaFleur Brown was loosely inspired by actual experiences, but the story is completely fictional) and romance-novel conventions. “I wanted to write about real issues that professional athletes deal with—the pressure of the media, being really superstitious, dealing with something internally and not wanting to talk about it—but I wanted Lucy to stand on her own too,” she says. “I also really wanted to write a main male character who is kind and accepting. We don’t get that in every single hockey player, but that person does exist, and that’s the person worth writing and reading about.” Shoot Your Shot feels primed for success—a natural addition to the genre that doesn’t feel like a slightly tweaked version of a story you’ve read hundreds of times already.

From the moment she started writing the book, LaFleur Brown felt that people would read it. “If I put my mind to something, I’m going to do it,” she says. “I’m going to get it done.” But she didn’t know if that would be through self-publishing or the traditional way. She got an agent—the same person who worked with the author of a hockey romance she loved—who then pitched and helped sell the novel, landing LaFleur Brown a two-book deal. The writer says her next story will also be a hockey romance, but it will stand alone. From there, she wants to keep writing—and not just hockey romances but broader tales of love too. Whatever she decides, there’s no doubt that she’ll make it happen.

So, she sat down and started writing, and before she knew it, she had a draft of the book that would become Shoot Your Shot, which follows burnout star Jaylen Jones, who’s struggling to reignite his NHL career, and aspiring tattoo artist Lucy Ross, who accidentally becomes his good-luck charm. LaFleur Brown’s voice is evident throughout the book, which is funny, sweet and full of joyful queer characters and vibrant

Until then, she’ll continue working to make hockey a better place for everyone—on the page and IRL—and celebrating hockey romances, whether they have her name on them or not. “The #BookTok community is this whole other way for people to find hockey and engage with it,” says LaFleur Brown. “And women are the main readers of these books—they just want that doorway into sports, and this is an accessible way for them to come into that fandom safely. I just love that aspect of it.”

LEXI LAFLEUR BROWN

Callina Liang

This rising star has impressed the likes of Steven Soderbergh and Lucy Liu. Next up? The rest of Hollywood.

By PATRICIA KAROUNOS

THERE’S SOMETHING VANCOUVER-BORN actor Callina Liang learned very quickly while working with acclaimed filmmaker Steven Soderbergh: He’s pretty quiet. Liang, who grew up moving around—China, Singapore and Australia—shared a set with the Ocean’s Eleven director for his latest film, Presence (which debuted in theatres earlier this year), an experimental horror film in which the camera acts as the ghost haunting a family in their new home. Liang plays Chloe, the family’s daughter. (Her parents: Lucy Liu and This Is Us’ Chris Sullivan.) The movie was shot in less than two weeks, and it was also only the up-and-coming star’s second-ever film role, which made Soderbergh’s relative silence a bit concerning. “When I first got on-set with Steven, I was already scared and feeling imposter syndrome. And on top of that, he doesn’t say much—when he’s happy with a take, he goes, ‘Okay, let’s move on’—and I started getting into my head a little bit,” says Liang, laughing. “The next day, I [asked the rest of the cast], ‘Is he saying anything to you guys?’ And they were like, ‘No, nothing.’ And I was like, ‘Great—if he’s not saying anything to Lucy Liu, I’m okay.’” Based on the performance she gives in the film, Liang is doing more than okay.

JUMPING IN “I only learned English when I was 10 years old, and [then] I moved to Australia around 2010. I remember being a super-shy kid—I didn’t have a lot of friends because growing up, I never stayed at the same school for more than two-anda-half years. And this was my first time transitioning from a Chinese school to an English-speaking school, and I was so terrified. It was also my first time doing drama class, and I remember playing this improv game and feeling so free. For once, language wasn’t something that made me anxious and I [was able to] express myself.”

HEAD FIRST “My parents had expectations that I wasn’t going to go the creative route. No one in my family had gone the creative route before—I’m the first one. But I never viewed acting as a career path; I was actually planning to go to med school [because] I wanted to go into medical research. But when I was 17, I received a drama award, and I said to my dad: ‘Hey, I got a really good score. Can I actually pursue this as a career?’ And he

was like: ‘You know what? Acting is something you should start as young as you can, so why not try it for a few years? If [it doesn’t work out], come back and go to med school.’ I immediately dropped out of high school and went to drama school.”

DREAM COME TRUE “When I learned that I’d booked [my first film], Bad Genius, I was like, ‘Whoa, this is crazy.’ Then I booked Presence, and it felt almost too good to be true. Now, [with] everything that’s happening, it just feels like it’s getting better and better. It’s surreal that I’m living out my dream. Every day, I wake up and feel so insanely grateful because I get to do what I love, and it’s so precious to me.”

GUT FEELING “I felt a lot of imposter syndrome [working with] Steven Soderbergh. [It] felt like a master class, especially because we were working on a very experimental script—on [a type of] project that had never been done before. I hit the jackpot. People were like, ‘When Steven chooses to cast an actor, he puts all his faith in that person to bring their creative instincts to the character.’ So this whole experience taught me one very important lesson: to trust my instincts.”

STAYING PLAYFUL “I think I’m still trying to figure out [my personal style]. Last year, I started wearing more things that are a bit out there, and I’m finding myself trying to experiment a bit more. I’m really enjoying mixing and matching—like stacking gold and silver jewellery together and layering different things. Some days, I’m like, ‘Today, I’m going to dress like a mom,’ and then I dress like a teenager going to a frat party. It’s so fun to play into every different vibe.”

ON A TUESDAY AFTERNOON IN MONTREAL’S Notre-Damede-Grâce neighbourhood, a restaurant is buzzing as a jazz duo play on a small stage. In a space reminiscent of the 1990s family-style eatery it once housed, diners enjoy a vegetarian lunch cooked by a chef who used to work at the Ritz. This is the dining room of the Montreal location of Le Dépôt—the biggest community-food organization in Canada—which has many branches, including this restaurant, where close to 45,000 meals were served in 2024. The diners are called “participants,” and some of them are also part of a group of 250 or so volunteers who work in the kitchen or care for the dozens of plants hanging in the windows. The term “participants” is part of the dignity that is fundamental to how this organization interacts with the community members it feeds.

Le Dépôt got started in 1986, a time when food banks were opening across the country in response to an economic recession. The organization has since grown in different directions, running community gardens, hosting cooking workshops and distributing food baskets (more than 20,000 annually), and it uses cash donations to buy goods and some food from local businesses. Adjacent to the restaurant is a space that looks like a

On the Table

Organizations that address food insecurity are growing in step with the need for more of them.

By CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET

market. Bins, shelves and fridges are stocked with pulses, grains, canned goods, dairy products and lots of fruits and vegetables as well as some frozen meals. This is where participants shop using “Dépôt dollars,” which are allotted by the organization in accordance with the size of each individual’s household. Volunteers walk the floor with participants, tallying purchases on a digital tablet as they go rather than checking them out at a traditional register. This way, shoppers can avoid having to put items back if they go over budget, an experience laced with shame that plenty have had at grocery stores.

Looking out at the packed dining room, Tashas Lackman, Le Dépôt’s executive director, shares that it’s still not enough. “We’re bursting at the seams here,” she says. After working at a national law firm and in philanthropy, she wanted to come back to what she calls “the front lines.” “Three and a half years ago, when I was considering this job, I don’t think any of us could have imagined how food insecurity in Canada, or the world, would just skyrocket.”

As of this April, Le Dépôt will start charging for certain services—it’s going to introduce a sliding scale for the restaurant, for example—to ensure financial sustainability, because the

demand is too high. “Last year, for the first time in the almost 40 years of our existence, we had to put in place a waiting list because we had so many people in our system,” says Lackman. The organization’s budget hovers around $4 million annually—double what it was when she started in 2021—with just 17 percent of funds coming from different levels of government.

As government aid fails to keep pace with soaring need, feeding people is, more than ever, a labour of love. Philanthropy and donations fuel the community organizations rising to the occasion. The bulk of Le Dépôt’s money is from donors in the philanthropic community. Though government funding has increased, its percentage in the organization’s overall budget is declining thanks to its fast-paced growth, mirroring the rest of the country. In 2024, with over two million visits per month, food-bank activity in Canada almost doubled. And of the country’s 5,500 food banks and community organizations, close to 30 percent of them reported that they were running out of food. This spike speaks to low incomes, skyrocketing housing costs and an official national poverty rate of 10 percent, although experts estimate that the real number is closer to 25 percent.

Between 2021 and 2024, the number of unhoused people in Ottawa more than doubled, rising from 1,340 to 2,952. In 2022, Ottawa Public Foods opened a shed-size community fridge and pantry in the city’s Centretown neighbourhood. Started by representatives of the Glebe St. James United Church, the volunteer-based organization was helped by Ottawa Community Housing and architecture students at Carleton University, who built the drywalled and heated shed. One of 20 or so volunteers drops in daily to maintain the establishment, which has a “take what you need, leave what you can” philosophy. The project aims to reduce food waste by redirecting surpluses from stores to the Centretown fridge and pantry. Now it also hosts cooking workshops using ingredients commonly found in the shed.

Food insecurity is a problem far from urban centres too, as geographical isolation comes with its own set of challenges. In mountainous Fernie, B.C., which sees more than nine metres of snow a year, a local branch of the environmental charity Wildsight is tackling issues with access to fresh food since growing times in the region are limited. “There are so many pieces to the puzzle,” says Dawn Deydey, the organization’s coordinator and the creator of many of its initiatives, including a farmers’ market, community gardens and a greens-growing operation called Evergreens Farm. Some support for the latter came from the national Local Food Infrastructure Fund (a federal program that provides funding for small-scale projects), allowing the organization to purchase a refrigerated van so it can deliver leafy greens and herbs year-round. The produce is grown in a hydroponic system that uses 90 percent less water than conventional modes of agriculture.

As government aid fails to keep pace with soaring need, feeding people is, more than ever, a labour of

love .

Susan Palmai, one of the group’s founders, says they aren’t seeking government funding. Instead, they have the support of their church. “I asked the congregation for $5,000,” she says. “Within 10 days, I had my $5,000.” She highlights wanting to leave government support to the struggling local food programs, which are facing supply cuts of up to 50 percent from the Ottawa Food Bank due to all-time-high visits and rising food costs.

The organization is part of a little ecosystem: The Fernie food bank, Feed the Need, receives donations from Evergreens, and fundraisers provide coupons for the farmers’ market or gift cards for Wildsight’s Local Store, where the focus is on the town’s crops. Much like Wildsight’s everyday operations have many moving parts, the country’s greater food systems are complex structures in need of a more stable foundation. “Our food system is global,” says Deydey. “When that fails, to be able to have that strength locally is huge. We saw system failures during COVID. All of a sudden, there was no food on the shelves. So to be able to have local food systems and farmers—that’s how we end up having local food [during those] challenges.”

A similar idea has taken root in the community of Inukjuak, which is on Hudson Bay in Nunavik, the Inuit territory that makes up the top third of Quebec. Local organization Sirivik set out to tackle food insecurity in 2013. Here, access to fresh ingredients is a whole other ball game, with the majority of the region’s food being shipped in from southern Quebec. “When vegetables arrive, they’re often covered in mould,” says Louisalouie Weetaluktuk, vice-president of Sirivik’s board of directors. Hans Godbout, the organization’s executive director, works hard to meet ever-growing need as the community’s population increases. The cost of living is extremely high throughout the region, with food sometimes priced 40 percent higher than it is in the south. The Nunavik Board of Health and Social Services estimates that 83 percent of people

on the shores of Hudson Bay are food insecure at some point in the month, and Sirivik distributes some 22,000 food boxes throughout the year in a town of just under 1,900.

Along with providing ingredients, Sirivik has a small dining room where people can come to eat breakfast. Staff also run an on-the-land program, taking youth out with skilled professionals to hunt caribou, seal and ptarmigan—a bird in the grouse family that gets roasted or cooked up in stews—so they can learn to harvest and prepare what they call “country food.” Catches are shared between participants, harvesters and community members visiting the centre, or they get included in delivery boxes. Weetaluktuk says that when they’re seasonally available, Arctic char, mussels and the occasional sea urchin will arrive in their kitchens.

Sirivik relies on a mix of sources for funding: donations through its website and funding from the Nunavik health board and regional government as well as some federal grants and food-bank support. Later this year, the organization will be moving to a new space with a larger dining room as well as a kitchen that’s three times the size of the current facility and connected to a hydroponic greenhouse that should help alleviate local difficulties with accessing fresh vegetables. The plants that will sprout here will be culturally relevant too, as the team plans to grow species like qunguliit, a type of mountain sorrel that is high in vitamin C and has long been an important part of the Inuit diet. As the organization grows to meet demand, it’s introducing practices rarely seen in the region, taking a more global approach to Inukjuak’s needs.

Getting to the root of food insecurity requires this sort of approach—one that implements long-term, self-sustaining solutions and gives people skills to feed themselves too, accounting for multiple converging issues at once. We need to stop regarding issues as existing in silos; for example, we have to treat the climate crisis as an existing and increasing threat to food access. “Climate change interrupts supply chains,” says Sabine Dietz, executive director of Climatlantic, a free public service that provides Atlantic Canada with information about and assistance with considering how climate change impacts their decisions, addressing needs for climate adaptation and resilience in all four Atlantic provinces.

Though Climatlantic focuses on a number of areas, its work overlaps heavily with food insecurity as it responds to local needs. The organization collaborates on all sorts of projects, including responding to requests from farmers of cash crops, like potatoes and blueberries, about how to adapt to increased heat and drought. Dietz hopes to see more people, businesses and organizations examine local food resilience in connection with climate-change adaptation.

Dietz also wants to see an increase in awareness of the fact that food insecurity and climate change are actually

part of the same conversation. “There’s a gigantic lack of understanding about how things hang together,” she says. The Atlantic provinces have a lot to gain from increasing their discourse about adaptation and resilience—and a lot to lose if they don’t start talking. Dietz says her region is rife with supply-chain issues that can be exacerbated by extreme-weather events, like the bridge to PEI from New Brunswick becoming impossible to cross when winds are too strong, Newfoundland’s ferry infrastructure being at the mercy of hurricanes or community fridges being vulnerable to electricity loss—all things that need to be considered jointly in interconnected plans. She points out that these problems reared their heads in 2020, exposing the fragility of our food systems. “We know from COVID that supply-chain interruptions impact people’s health because of food insecurity, but the lessons learned from COVID haven’t really made it into the climate space that well.”

We still have a ways to go when it comes to adaptation and addressing changing and growing societal needs across Canada. Lackman also points to the importance of considering the interconnectedness of issues instead of just tackling the visible problem of food insecurity, which is a symptom of bigger challenges. She emphasizes that to build more-resilient food systems, we need resilient communities, which require essential welfare, housing and benefits. “Food insecurity isn’t a food issue; it’s an income issue,” says Lackman. “So as a society, until we’re addressing the income issue, organizations like ours are always going to be a band-aid solution.”

3 APPS THAT GET FOOD WHERE IT NEEDS TO GO

FLASHFOOD

Its mission to feed families rather than landfills results in deals of up to 50 percent off at chain grocery stores across the country. flashfood.com

FOOD HERO

Via the app’s partnership with Canada-wide grocery stores to reduce food waste, users will save between 25 and 60 percent on everyday goods. foodhero.com

TOO GOOD TO GO

Cafés, bakeries, restaurants and stores assemble reducedprice baskets for shoppers through this Danish-made app, which is now available in 18 countries. toogoodtogo.com

The GREEN BEAUTY Guide

Although more and more people understand the impact our beauty regimens can have on the planet, many are still hesitant to swap their tried-and-true favourites for more-eco-friendly alternatives. We get it. Sustainable products often get a bad rap and tend to be viewed as crunchy and less effective than their traditional counterparts. That’s why we asked 12 experts in the field, from facialists and hairstylists to brand founders and content creators, to share the earth-conscious skincare, hair-care and makeup products they can’t live without.

By INGRIE WILLIAMS

FROM THE MOST POSITIVE POV, green beauty has blossomed into a garden of betterment. “For me, green beauty means creating products with minimal impact on the environment while delivering exceptional performance for every human,” says Jenn Harper, founder and CEO of Canadian Indigenous-led brand Cheekbone Beauty.

While many in the space hold a similar holistic definition, the term itself remains globally undefined, which allows for an unregulated grey area that can be confusing to navigate as a consumer. “‘Green beauty’ is a somewhat vague phrase that lacks firm standards,” says JJ Walsh, founder and CEO of Formula Fig, a skin-treatment clinic and retailer with locations in Toronto and Vancouver. “It’s still an opaque marketing term, but I think all brands should be aware of their impact.”

Greenwashing remains among the biggest challenges. “[It] is the practice of making misleading or unsubstantiated claims about the environmental benefits of a product,” says Laura Shartun, director of merchandising for The Detox Market in Canada. Because of this, shopping within the category requires a certain level of buyer awareness. “I feel like I need to dig deeper to know whether a brand truly aligns with my values or it’s just a smoke show,” says Joëlle Paquette, a Montreal-based journalist and sustainable-lifestyle-content creator.

Asking a few key questions about a product can put you on the right track (see “Question Period” for more), but it also pays to ask an in-the-know friend for a recommendation. In an effort to cut through the smog and connect you with beauty buys you can feel really good about, we asked a collective of trusted industry voices to share their favourites for head-to-toe care.

Skin

BLUME MELTDOWN OIL FOR ACNE PRONE SKIN

($41, SEPHORA.CA)

Utilizing plant-based oils, such as black cumin, blue tansy and rosehip, to soothe breakouts and fade acne scars, this cruelty-free, non-comedogenic formula can be used as a spot treatment or mixed into your go-to moisturizer.

“Ifirstpurchasedthisfor myteendaughter,who wasstrugglingwithacne. Iwantedsomethingthat wouldaddresstheacnebut becleanaswellasgentle enoughfordailyuse.She wasthrilledwiththeresults, andwehavesincebought thewholelineupmanytimes over.”– Lisa Mattam, founder and CEO, Sahajan

ODACITÉ BIOACTIVE ROSE GOMMAGE

($87, FORMULAFIG.COM)

A revitalizing peel treatment, this non-abrasive gel banks on organic-fruit extracts to eliminate dullness and dryness in a flash.

“Aftercleansinginthe morning,IapplyRose Gommage—bythetimeI’ve takenthedogsoutandmade thekids’breakfast,it’sworked itsmagic,andaquickrub-off revealsbrighter,bouncier skin.”– JJ Walsh, founder and CEO, Formula Fig

LATANE SKINCARE MIMADO BALM CLEANSER

($48, LATANESKINCARE.COM)

A blend of sustainably sourced African butters and oils, including shea butter and sweet-almond oil, as well as essential fatty acids and vitamin E create a luxurious cleansing experience. “Thisgetsridofallimpurities andmakeupwithease, leavingmyskinfeeling nourishedandsoft.”

– Josiane Konaté, content creator and founder of Latane Skincare

THREE SHIPS DEW DROPS MUSHROOM + KAKADU PLUM HYALURONIC ACID SERUM

($50, THREESHIPSBEAUTY.CA)

Made in Canada by a B Corp-certified indie brand, this jelly-like serum is clinically proven to brighten and plump your complexion.

“Icallthis‘myvery-dry-skin saviour.’Ilovethatithas hyaluronicacidfromthe tremellamushroom. Itisnon-oilyandimmediately soaksintomyskin.”

– Diana Osbourne, hairstylist and founder of Hair Holistic

SKINFIX BARRIER+ TRIPLE LIPID-PEPTIDE CREAM

($73, SEPHORA.CA)

Inside this refillable airless pump jar, you’ll find a rich vegan cream that delivers instant hydration and plumping and firms and smooths over time.

“Theformulaleverages propanediol—anunderrated ingredient—todeliver deep,long-lastingmoisture whilesupportingtheskin barrier.It’strulyanunsung heroinskincare.”– Jenn Harper, founder and CEO, Cheekbone Beauty

SAHAJAN GOLDEN GLOW EYE

($70, SAHAJAN.COM)

Powered by natural ingredients from Ayurvedic medicine, such as ghee and gotu kola, this balm-to-oil treatment brightens dark circles, firms fine lines and soothes dryness around the delicate eye area.

“Handsdownoneofmy desert-islandproducts.I getcomplimentsonmy glowingskineverytimeI useit(evenonZoomcalls, Iswear!).IfIcould,Iwould slatheritovermyentirebody.”

– Charlotte Singmin, media personality and lifestyle and wellness expert

19/99 BEAUTY LIP OINTMENT

($27, 1999BEAUTY.COM)

Plant-based ingredients such as olive oil and cupuaçuseed butter team up with alternatives to traditional emollients (no mineral oil or petrolatum here) to protect and condition dry lips.

“Byfarmyfavouritelipbalm. OnceIapplyit,itstaysonfor hoursandgivesmylipsthat reallyglossyfeelingwithout beingsticky.”– Wenlan Nyenon, aesthetician

plant-based, this polish from Montreal brand BKIND dries in record time while imparting a luminous finish that lasts and lasts. Also, the 30-shade colour range is seriously dreamy.

“Asastrongadvocateforsustainable andethicalbeauty,Ilovethatthese nailpolishesarevegan,cruelty-free andfreefromharmfulchemicalslike formaldehydeandtoluene.”

– Jenn Harper

WELEDA SKIN FOOD ORIGINAL ULTRA-RICH CREAM

($28, WELL.CA)

It’s nearly 100 years old and an icon for good reason. Its cocktail of ethically sourced botanical oils, shea butter and soothing calendula and camomile make for one deeply nourishing treat. Good to know: The brand is B Corp-certified and harvests many of its ingredients in its biodynamic garden, home to over 30 wild-bee species.

“Fordryskin,there’snothinglikethisthick, richformula.Iapplyitoneverypartof mybodythat’sinneed. Ialsouseiton 99percentofmyred-carpetclientsfor luminouslegs,armsanddécolletés.”

– Katey Denno, makeup artist

Hands

Makeup

SWEED LIP LINER

($35, SWEEDBEAUTY.COM)

Boasting strong pigment payoff to meet any lipshaping needs, this vegan pencil is capped off with a handy blending brush.

“Thetextureiscreamyand doesn’ttugorskip,andthere’s enoughwaxintheformulato maketheselinersstayput.”

– Katey Denno

SAIE GLOSSYBOUNCE HIGH SHINE HYDRATING LIP GLOSS OIL

($31, SEPHORA.CA)

This balm-meets-gloss-meetsoil lip enhancer (seriously, it does it all) is brought to you by a brand that’s committed to protecting the planet: 1 percent of its profits is donated to ocean-conservation projects, and the company aims to offset its carbon emissions by 2039. “Igrewupbuyingshimmery, goopyglosses,andthisisthe elevatedtakeonthem.Ithas justtherightamountofshine— withoutanystickiness—forthe mostgorgeous,glossylips.”

– Laney Crowell, founder and CEO, Saie

ERE PEREZ LYCHEE CRÈME CORRECTOR

($50, EREPEREZ.COM)

From a 20-plus-year veteran in the natural-cosmetics space comes this multi-use corrector, which is rich in vitamins E and C. It serves up medium coverage that minimizes discoloration while bathing skin in radiance.

“Iwassoimpressedassoonas Itrieditonmydarkunder-eye circles.Itbrightenseverything andmakesmelookwide awakenomatterwhat.”

– Diana Osbourne

MERIT DAY GLOW

HIGHLIGHTING BALM

($44, MERITBEAUTY.COM)

This chubby stick dispenses subtle luminosity that’s easily buildable and blendable.

Bonus: It’s spiked with plant-based squalane and is certified by Leaping Bunny.

“I’mnotbigintomakeup, butthisisoneproductIcan’t livewithout.Theformula meltsintomyskinandis veryforgivingforthosenot blessedwiththemakeup artist’stouch.”– Connie Lo, co-founder, Three Ships

RITUEL

DE FILLE 3

DROP WEIGHTLESS SERUM FOUNDATION

($58, BEAUTIESLAB.CO)

CHEEKBONE BEAUTY

UPRISE MASCARA

($34, CHEEKBONEBEAUTY.COM)

This bestseller from the Indigenous-owned line bestows lashes with fullness and definition via responsibly harvested botanical waxes and nourishing argan oil. “Ikeeponeinmycarandone atmydeskforlast-minute makeupfixes—itissoeasyto apply,liftsandseparateslikea dreamandisneverapainto remove!”– JJ Walsh

A cruelty-free hybrid of makeup and skincare, this luminous tinted fluid is infused with organic seed oils and an innovative fermented mycelium extract that fortify the skin barrier, brighten and smooth.

“It’spuremagicinabottle. Thelightweightformula blendsseamlesslyintothe skin,leavingitradiantand deeplynourished.It’sastaple inmyroutineforthatnatural, lit-from-withinglow.”– Léa Bégin, founder and owner, Beauties Lab

RMS REDIMENSION HYDRA POWDER BLUSH

($49, RMSBEAUTY.COM)

Within a refillable compact made with 75 percent postconsumer materials, 10 multidimensional shades are infused with plant-based ingredients, including a sugar derivative that creates a bouncy texture that glides over cheeks.

“Oftentimes,powderblush canmakemyskinlook dryorlacklustre,butthis hasasubtlesheentoit.It’s basicallyablushandavery natural-lookinghighlighter allinone.”– Joëlle Paquette, journalist and sustainablelifestyle-content creator

KOSAS AIR BROW CLEAR + CLEAN LIFTING TREATMENT

EYEBROW GEL

($34, SEPHORA.CA)

Boosted by skincare-worthy ingredients like provitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid, this brow gel not only keeps hairs in place but also strengthens and conditions them. “Igetperfectfeatherybrows everytimewithoutany stickinessorhardening.If Kosaseverstopsmakingthis product,Iwillcryandbuyup allitsstocksoIneverhaveto bewithoutit.”

– Charlotte Singmin

BODY WASH CONCENTRATE

($28, HELLOEVERIST.COM)

The formula is waterless (you simply activate it with water in the shower), and the aluminum tube is 100 percent recycled and recyclable. Biodegradable bamboocharcoal particles buff away dead cells while aloe vera and glycerine go to work hydrating skin.

“Thisbodywashsmells amazingandisgently exfoliating,makingyourskin softandsmooth.Ilovethatin

($75, THEDETOXMARKET.CA)

Formulated with handharvested algae and teeming with antioxidants, this sumptuous body oil is clinically proven to instantly improve skin elasticity.

“Thisoil! It’smyfavouritepart ofmypost-showerroutine. Thebotanicaloilsaddso muchmoistureandgivemy skinasubtleall-overglow.”

– Laney Crowell

Responsibly sourced argan oil teams up with non-abrasive sugar granules to reveal smoother, more luminous skin all over. Extra points go to its sparkling citrus scent and refillable glass jar.

“Iusethisonceaweek;it’svery soothingandmoisturizing.I lovethatitsmellsamazingand leavesmyskinsilky-softand glowing.”–Josiane Konaté

Body

OSEA UNDARIA ALGAE BODY OIL

JOSIE MARAN TOPLESS TANGERINE ARGAN OIL + SUGAR BALM BODY SCRUB ($39, SEPHORA.CA)

Hair

I NNERSENSE ORGANIC BEAUTY COLOR

AWAKENING HAIRBATH

($38, THEDETOXMARKET.CA)

Created with coloured and chemically treated hair in mind, this gentle (and refillable) shampoo revs up hydration and vibrancy thanks to non-GMO coconut oil, organic shea butter and pumpkin-seed oil. “Otherhaircarecomesand goes,butthisstaysinmyroutine. Ilovetherichlatheritproduces. It’stheperfectbalanceof cleansingandmoisturizing.”

– Diana Osbourne

DES HAIR CARE

STIMULATING HAIR GROWTH OIL

($16, DESHAIRCARE.COM)

PROSE CUSTOM SCALP MASK

($60, PROSE.COM)

Offered by the first and only carbon-neutral custom-beauty brand, this pre-shampoo treatment is made to order to address your unique scalp and hair needs and formulated using ethically sourced ingredients. There’s also the option to make it vegan and/or fragrance-free. “Ihaveveryfinehairthatgets dirtyeasily,andIalsousealot ofhairproducts,whichtendto builduponmyscalp.Iusethis masktogetridofalltheresidue andheaviness—it’slikeareset button!”– Joëlle Paquette

($50, BEAUTIESLAB.CO)

Use this moisturizing plantpowered formula as a conditioner to strengthen your strands or as a lightweight styling cream to tame frizz. Talk about multi-tasking! “Itleavesmyhairsoft,silkyand incrediblymanageable.Ilove knowingit’spackedwithoils thatnourishdeeplyandalso eco-conscious—it’slikeself-care forbothmyhairandtheplanet.” – Léa Bégin

Handcrafted by a B.C.-based curl specialist and certified hair-loss practitioner, this vegan and cruelty-free scalp treatment relies on a mix of botanicals to nix dandruff and soothe inflammation on the scalp while preventing breakage from roots to tips. “Myhairfeelshealthy, hydratedandallinall fabulous.Iusethisproduct everydaybecauseIusually haveverydrystrandsand ithelpsmyhairfeelquite fluffy.MyAfrolovesit!” – Wenlan Nyenon

($57, CROWNAFFAIR.COM)

A non-aerosol option for refreshing roots, this blend of oil-absorbing tapioca starch and deodorizing persimmon is housed in a refillable jar and designed to be applied with a nifty brush. “Thisisthefirstdryshampoo I’vefoundthatsmells amazing—nochemicalor overpoweringscenthere! Iloveusingittoaddextra volumetomyroots,andthe fluffybrushapplicatorispure genius.”– Connie Lo

CROWN AFFAIR THE DRY SHAMPOO

RAHUA CLASSIC CONDITIONER

QUESTION PERIOD

Getting curious is key to becoming a more sustainably minded consumer. “Be aware of brands that make green claims without providing any specific information to back them up or products that are labelled ‘natural’ or ‘eco-friendly,’ as those claims are not certified,” says Sarah King, a senior campaign strategist at Greenpeace Canada. Third-party certifications, however, are something The Detox Market’s Laura Shartun keeps an eye out for. “Made Safe, EWG, Leaping Bunny and Ecocert can help consumers identify products that meet certain sustainability standards,” she says. Social media can also be a helpful source for getting to know more about the ethos of a brand. “If information is not provided on the packaging, do a search of the company’s website or, better yet, ask them directly to try to gain an understanding of what is being done to offer greener and more socially responsible products,” says King.

3

WHERE ARE THE INGREDIENTS SOURCED FROM?

“It’s important to check if the ingredients are sourced in a sustainable and socially responsible

Here are five questions to ask yourself when considering a product: 1 2

WHAT INGREDIENTS DOES IT CONTAIN?

With standards varying between countries, there is no singular universal list of harmful ingredients. “Some natural ingredients are incredibly harmful, and many man-made ingredients are incredibly safe. So if a product is 100 percent natural, it doesn’t necessarily mean green beauty to me,” says journalist Joëlle Paquette. Understanding ingredient safety requires nuance as well as information from qualified sources. For starters, visit canada.ca to learn more about Health Canada’s cosmeticingredients safety list.

ARE THE PEOPLE MAKING THIS PRODUCT TREATED ETHICALLY?

Fair-trade practices for agricultural and manufacturing workers are an essential element of sustainability. “It’s important to support companies that ensure that the human rights of the people who source, make and sell their products are upheld,” says King.

PRODUCT MADE?

“Supporting Indigenous-owned and local companies is a great way to support the community while also reducing a product’s carbon footprint,” says King.

LET IT BE

So many of us have spent years loathing our hair in its natural state. But what if you could fall in love with your strands just as they are—kinks and all? Not only is it possible; it’s downright liberating.

By JILLIAN VIEIRA

THERE’S AN IMAGE OF ME from eighth-grade photo day that’s forever burned into my memory. Not because of the egregious two-inch silver hoops dangling from my earlobes or the padded training bra doing all kinds of work for my flat shape but because of my hair—a curtain of pin-straight strands ironed to within an inch of their life. Wash after wash of 2000s-era smoothing shampoo and endless passes of 450-degree heat had me convinced that my hair was stickstraight well into adulthood.

The current state of my strands, an au naturel, decidedly more low-maintenance look, is a completely different picture: a soft, easy S-bend that requires no extra product or hot tools. (Seriously—I don’t even own a blow-dryer.) A celeb hairstylist once told me it has the texture her clients dream of, and I’d be lying if I said that statement didn’t immediately become a huge point of pride for me.

Relinquishing complete control to your fated texture—and actually learning to love it—isn’t an easy process. It’s something Nancy Falaise, the owner of her eponymous curly-hair-focused

salon in Montreal, knows well. Before a breast cancer diagnosis in 2012, the treatment for which saw all her strands fall out, she was deeply committed to a dryer-and-flatiron routine to manage her densely coiled hair. “You wouldn’t catch me with my curly hair,” says Falaise, detailing her bonnet-hoodie-umbrella method of protection for when wet weather threatened her smooth locks. “Then when it all grew back, I fell in love with my hair for the first time in my life.”

Ready to take a liking to your own texture? Here, we detail the mind shift, pro tips and product revamp that can help get you there.

CHANGE YOUR PERSPECTIVE

Appreciating your natural hair texture comes down to one (admittedly ambitious) challenge: completely shedding the goal of perfection. Beyond being endlessly effortful to achieve (the symmetry, the definition, the impossible shine!), it’s honestly just not that interesting. Think about it: How often do flawlessly even, brushed-out barrel waves compel you to compliment

AIR IT OUT

Heatless helpers to make the most of your mane.

Tailored to your personal curl pattern (your name will even appear on the label!), this styling cream serves up nourishment and definition in one fell swoop.

PROSE CUSTOM CURL CREAM ($38, PROSE.COM)

Amplify your natural texture with this volumizing—and never crunchy— air-drying foam.

LOVE UR CURLS VOLUMIZING FOAM ($29, CA.LUSBRANDS.COM)

This super-soft, ultra-absorbent towel prevents frizz and breakage and cuts drying time in half.

VOLO HERO HAIR TOWEL ($65, VOLOBEAUTY.COM)

someone? As Antonia Stanley, hairstylist at Salon August in Toronto, puts it, it’s those imperfect, in-between textures that garner our attention. “That’s what attracts us to other people’s hair,” she says. “It’s the fact that they let it do what it wants to do; they let it breathe and move.”

Among a deluge of trending beauty aesthetics, a more natural version of hair is making waves in pop culture too. The fact that so many are now taking a cue from Sabrina Carpenter and Beyoncé, who have been showing off bigger, fluffier and mussier hair of late, signals our willingness to welcome the realities of real-life tresses. “I think we’re more inclined to embrace that element of volume and frizz,” says Stanley.

If you’re still unconvinced, we get it. Settling into your own level of self-acceptance sometimes requires a head-down approach; the only way out is through, as they say. “Like everything else, you have to grow to love your hair if you’ve hated it for a long time,” says Falaise.

DO NOTHING (NO, REALLY!)

Welcome to the discovery phase—a period that requires you to curb your every hair inclination. “I often find that when people are starting their natural-hair journey, they’re doing too much,” says Stanley. After years of employing fine-tuned routines and a security blanket’s worth of products, going cold turkey is an exercise in patience. “Not brushing it, not touching it, not running your hands through it, not moving as much when it’s air-drying,” she adds.

Sound impossible? Falaise recommends spending all the free time you’ll gain getting to know your hair—there’s a good chance you’ll be surprised. “When you let your hair be itself, you’ll usually see that it’s not what you think,” she says, noting that many of her clients who are coming off years of straightening or relaxing are surprised to learn that they don’t actually have a 4C hair texture.

Having to sit in the discomfort of a bad hair day is another expected side effect. That covetable S-bend I bragged about earlier? Sometimes it dries a little unruly or turns second-day flat hours after a wash. The lesson here is about letting go, says Falaise. “There were days when my hair was absolutely gorgeous, and then there were days when I’d wear a bandana,” she says of her early experimentation. “You have to be flexible.”

LEAN ON THE PROS

Like so many modern-day beauty movements, the natural-texture tide swelled on—where else?—TikTok. A spike

in curly-girl methods—tedious multi-step wash regimens, the unfortunately named “plopping” technique, plus endless products—has led to thousands of videos to date. And while this worthy spotlight is good for the culture, these content “gurus” often offer novice advice (read “what works for them might not be right for you”). An experienced hairstylist—someone who encounters five different clients and, thus, five different textures in a single day—is your best bet. “Go see someone who touches many types of curls,” says Falaise. “That person is an expert.”

In fact, a trusted hairstylist can be the most loyal ally— someone who can set you up for success from the get-go, says Stanley. To undo any heat- or chemical-induced damage, a fresh cut and a restorative treatment are ace, but it’s the in-chair QT that is truly essential. “Contact the salon to see if your hairstylist has enough time to let your hair dry naturally during your appointment,” she says, adding that this is a service she offers her clients. From there, they can glean more key information and customize your cut to really highlight your texture.

PERSONALIZE YOUR PRODUCT LINEUP

Taking the effortless route doesn’t mean tossing your product stash altogether. Consider this a work-smarter-not-harder situation. Conventional product offerings are so narrow in scope (straight, wavy, curly—end of story) that they often create problems that weren’t there originally.

“One of the things I hear most about non-personalized shampoo and conditioner is that they’re weighing hair down,” says Glen “Coco” Oropeza, an L.A.-based hairstylist whose A-list clients include Sydney Sweeney, Ariana Greenblatt and Blackpink’s Lisa. Sound familiar? There’s a good chance you’re stuck in a cycle of thinking your hair is lifeless and turning to multiple products that actually lead to buildup, he adds.

Customized hair care is the way to go. Lines like buzzy Brooklyn brand Prose go deep on understanding your individual texture through a detailed questionnaire so your pain points are diagnosed instead of being masked. Beyond differentiating between the zigzaggy coils of 4B and the sinuous bends of 2A and everything in between, these brands also consider key factors like physical stressors, sebum levels and even your postal code and how they might impact your texture. Live in Toronto? Hard water is likely wreaking havoc on those strands. In the middle of menopause? We don’t have to tell you that those hormone dips are affecting density. A bespoke solution makes total sense as only you have your unique texture. As Oscar Wilde would say, everyone else(’s hair) is already taken.

Waterworks

Dull hair, dry skin... The culprit behind your beauty woes might be hiding right in your shower. Here’s a look at the damaging effects of hard water.

By CAELAN MCMICHAEL

YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED THE SIGNS: WHITE MARKS IN YOUR SINK, a chalky film in your shower or some lime scale in your tea kettle. Hard water, characterized by high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium, is prevalent in many Canadian households. Over time, it can create a scaly buildup on whatever it comes in contact with—including our bodies.

“When we wash ourselves using hard water, a mineral residue can be left on the skin, which can lead to dryness, irritation and a taut feeling,” explains Dr. Danny Guo, a double-board-certified dermatologist practising in Calgary. Over time, hard water can compromise the skin barrier, hindering its ability to keep out external aggressors and

making it more prone to inflammation, itching and rashes. Some people might even notice recurrent redness every time they shower or wash their face.

Though conclusive evidence of causality is still lacking, many studies have reported a higher incidence of skin irritation and eczema in areas with hard water. As someone who has personally dealt with the latter, Guo says he’s certainly noticed that his flare-ups worsen when he’s residing in places with hard water, including Calgary.

He’s not alone. “Eczema is one of the most common [skin] concerns for anyone living in Alberta,” says the derm. The province happens to have some of the hardest water in

Canada. While it may be difficult to isolate hard water as the sole reason for this skin affliction, “it is still likely to be a significant contributor,” says Guo. “The primary effects of hard water are skin dryness and skin-barrier impairment, which are direct contributors to eczema.”

Mineral levels in water vary from coast to coast depending on geographical conditions, groundwater sources and the age of plumbing systems. Vancouver, for instance, has naturally soft water, whereas Ontario and the Prairies have harder water than the rest of the country.

Beyond its impact on our skin, hard water can also affect our hair. “Multiple microscopic-imaging studies have shown that when exposed to hard water, the hair surface loses its integrity,” says Guo. This translates to brittle, lacklustre locks. You might notice that products such as waxes and gels are tougher to wash off. Some people can also develop an itchy scalp.

Having worked in the hair industry for more than 11 years, Lisa Arslanian, founder of Skâlp Spa, the first head spa in Greater Montreal, has witnessed first-hand the havoc hard water can wreak on our strands and scalp. “It can cause damage and dryness and make hair colour look dull and fade faster,” she says. “It can also deposit many unwanted contaminants onto the scalp, with residue blocking pores.”

As a first step toward fixing the issue, Arslanian recommends booking a detoxifying service at a scalp or head spa. “A good treatment can definitely help remove buildup from the scalp and hair, leaving it feeling and looking cleaner,” she says. At Skâlp Spa, therapists deep-clean, exfoliate and even steam clients’ scalps to successfully do away with stubborn residue.

To help prevent buildup from reoccurring, Arslanian recommends installing a filter in your shower. “This way, you can rest assured that you won’t have harsh contaminants staying on your scalp, hair and skin.” Though these devices alone can’t soften water—that would require a whole-home water-softening system—they can help get rid of a whole host of unwanted elements such as chlorine, iron, copper and lead, all of which can be drying for the skin and hair.

Karlee Ozener certainly knows the power of a good shower filter. For years, she moved around for work, living in New York City, Istanbul and London, among other places, and she noticed clumps of hair swimming down the drain and tight, sensitive skin every time she found herself in a new city. She tried out a plethora of products and supplements in an effort to find a solution, but to no avail. Finally, she figured out what was really happening: She was having a bad reaction to hard water.

“This led to the realization that while many people invest in beauty products, they rarely think about the quality of the water they use every day,” says Ozener. That’s how she got the idea for Hello Klean, a beauty line built to halt and mitigate the effects of hard water. “Targeting this struggle felt vital because we wanted to address the root cause, not just put a band-aid on the symptoms,” says the founder.

As such, the company’s first product was a shower filter that removes more than 90 percent of chlorine, heavy

metals and impurities. The brand has since expanded to offer filtering shower heads as well as body-care products that target hard-water-induced flare-ups and leave skin calm and supple post-shower and hair care that wards off mineral buildup, protects against breakage and addresses thinning and colour fading.

Because hard water leads to high-pH deposits, using shampoos and body washes containing ingredients that combat or neutralize these deposits is key, says Guo. “These can be acidic ingredients like glycolic or citric acids or chelating ingredients like charcoal or ETDA [ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid], which binds to and removes minerals.”

As for skincare, the primary focus, according to the dermatologist, should be repairing the skin barrier to prevent water loss, which is the primary driver of irritation and rashes. To do so, he advises using formulas spiked with ceramides, glycerine, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, shea butter or squalane. It can also be helpful to double-cleanse—and double-shampoo—to nix mineral residue and to moisturize with a thick cream immediately after showering.

“Hard water impacts millions globally, yet it’s often misunderstood or overlooked,” says Ozener. “Many people blame their shampoo or skincare for dryness, flakiness or irritation, not realizing that the water itself is contributing to the problem.”

SOFT SIDE

Three ways to beat the hard-water blues.

The glycolic acid

This damage-reversing preshampoo treatment banks on citric acid to banish excess calcium and glycine, an amino acid, to relink broken keratin bonds within strands. Think of it as a time machine for your hair.

NÉCESSAIRE THE BODY WASH IN HINOKI ($38, SEPHORA.CA)

A breeze to install, this shower filter dramatically reduces chlorine, heavy metals, rust and odour in your water so you can kick off your routine with a clean slate.

KÉRASTASE PREMIÈRE CONCENTRÉ DÉCALCIFIANT ULTRA-RÉPARATEUR HAIR TREATMENT ($89, KERASTASE.CA)

HELLO KLEAN SHOWER FILTER 2.0 ($90, HELLOKLEAN.COM)

in this body wash not only helps keep mineral deposits at bay but also leaves your skin silky smooth. Bonus: Its woodsy Japanesecedar scent is said to help calm the mind.

Go With THE FLOW

CYCLE SYNCING is the buzzy new wellness trend being touted as the ultimate life hack for women—but is there any validity to it?

By VICTORIA CHRISTIE

WHEN JACQUELYN SON SETS OUT TO BOOK a work meeting or plan a night out with friends, she first looks at when she’s due to ovulate. See, the follicular phase of her cycle—those 14 days during which an egg matures in the ovaries before being released—is when she tends to feel most outgoing.

“Thankfully, I do get to manage my own schedule for the most part,” says the 33-year-old, who works for a telecommunications company. “Sometimes it’s inevitable that I’ll have a meeting during my luteal phase, when I just don’t feel my best, but I try to do what I can.”

The Vancouver Islander applies a similar philosophy to her workouts and diet. During her follicular phase, she works up a sweat with cardio and weight training and fuels herself with fresh foods. As her period nears, she slows down, focusing on walking and stretching, and enjoys the comforting meals her body craves.

It’s called “cycle syncing,” a.k.a. tweaking your diet, exercise and lifestyle habits according to the phases of your menstrual cycle in an effort to support your health and well-being. Son got into it about a year ago. At the time, she was feeling “all sorts of out of whack,” suffering from severe period pain, headaches, anxiety, insomnia, dizziness.... “I kind of felt crummy all of my cycle, which really sucked,” she says.

Cycle syncing has since helped her better understand her cycle, which tends to be irregular because she has PCOS (polycystic ovary syndrome). It’s also made her feel way better overall, she says. “When I’m prioritizing listening to my body, my sleep is better, my PMS symptoms are better and I have more energy.”

their body and journaling about it every day. She encourages them to pay attention to their physical sensations, energy and focus levels, cravings, moods and emotions. This allows clients to tune in to what she calls their “inner seasons” (the follicular phase being a woman’s inner spring, ovulation her summer, the luteal phase her fall and her period her winter). “Cycle syncing finally sees women. It recognizes our unique needs, and it gives us permission to show up in accordance with our inner rhythm—without feeling guilty.”

The “no guilt” part is something that resonates a lot with Son. “You’re not lazy if you need to take a break on your period; it’s definitely something that I’m constantly reminding myself of,” she says. “I think the more society acknowledges this, [the more] women will feel better about saying ‘no.’”

But not everyone is convinced that this trend truly serves women. Canadian board-certified OB/GYN Dr. Jen Gunter, for one, worries about the implicit message being promoted. “The idea that cycle syncing is vital for women to know when they can function the best implies that women may be less able or less competent at certain times of their menstrual cycle,” says the two-time New York Times Best Seller author known for debunking women’s-health myths. “This sounds like women are then ‘lesser’ during some phases of their menstrual cycle, which sounds like the language of the patriarchy.”

“YOU’RE NOT LAZY IF YOU NEED TO TAKE A BREAK ON YOUR PERIOD.”

Son isn’t the only one singing the practice’s praises. On TikTok, legions of creators are raving about its benefits. (The hashtag has amassed more than 500 million views on the platform.) Popular online workout platforms like Alo Moves and Barre Belle now even offer cycle-synced exercise programs designed to “harmonize with the ebb and flow of hormonal changes,” as the latter’s website puts it. Famously, period tracking was said to have helped the U.S. women’s national soccer team nab the 2019 World Cup, as players had tailored their training and nutrition according to their cycles in the lead-up to the tournament.

“It’s not a trend; it’s a revolution,” asserts Stella Artuso, a Montreal-based somatic educator and holistic cycle coach. “I’ve had clients say that cyclical living has completely transformed their lives. It’s more than managing their cycle; it’s changed how they feel about themselves, it’s increased their self-esteem and it’s changed who they are at work and in relationships.”

When accompanying clients on their cycle-syncing journey, Artuso will often recommend they start by getting curious about

But the biggest red flag of all for Gunter? “There is no science to support [the idea] that women should be tracking their menstrual cycle to optimize their health or fitness or their daily routines,” she says.

That’s one of the main reasons Lauren Colenso-Semple decided to research cycle syncing for her Ph.D. in integrative physiology at McMaster University. “For decades, there was so much work in exercise physiology and health that was [done] in male populations,” she says. “I wanted to do more work [regarding] women because I wanted to understand if there are sex differences; should we be training or eating differently?”

She studied the influence of ovarian hormones (estrogen and progesterone) on the skeletal-muscle response during resistance exercise. “There was a hypothesis floating around that estrogen is good for promoting muscle growth and therefore you should be doing more resistance training or weightlifting when that hormone is high [during your follicular phase].” The study took three years to complete. Its conclusion? There is no evidence pointing to the physical benefits of women adjusting their workouts based on their hormone levels.

Because of this, Colenso-Semple cautions against cyclesynced workout plans. For starters, as cycles vary greatly from one individual to another and even from one month

“WE WERE MANAGING OUR CYCLE MORE LIKE A PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED TO MAKE SURE THAT WE WERE CONSTANTLY PRODUCTIVE.”

to another, a one-size-fits-all program doesn’t make sense, she says. Her main concern, though, is that this trend “is really over-complicating exercise for women. And let’s not do that because we want people to exercise in a way that they can sustain long term so they actually stick to it.”

As for the nutrition piece of the conversation, research has shown that there is a slight increase in caloric demands during the luteal phase, but it’s small enough that you’ll likely naturally meet it just by following your body’s lead. In other words, you don’t need an app to tell you you’re hungry or to give you permission to eat more during certain times of the month. Some experts in the medical field have warned against the obsessive tracking of foods consumed or “allowed” during each phase of one’s cycle as it could lead to orthorexia.

That said, some medical professionals do see some potential upsides to cycle syncing. Take Dr. Elise Dubuc, for instance, OB/GYN and co-founder of Sensolia, a private gynecology clinic in Montreal. In recent years, she’s noticed more and more patients wanting to try it out and moving away from hormonal contraceptives to do so. (The pill as well as hormonal IUDs and implants inhibit ovulation and regulate hormone levels throughout the cycle, so one can’t technically cycle sync while using one of these birth-control methods.) Though she worries about these patients giving up contraception altogether, she does see a lot of good that can come from cycle syncing.

“These last few years, we were managing our cycle more like a problem to be solved to make sure that we were constantly productive and that we maintained our level of activity and energy,” she says. “And now I find that women tend to try to connect a little bit more with their cycle and [try to] understand it and maybe think about ‘What can I do to change or shift my life around my cycle and not try to just suppress it?’”

That said, like Colenso-Semple, Dubuc stresses that the menstrual cycle is unique to each woman and often irregular. “It’s important to be in sync with how you feel, not only with how the TikTok person said you should feel in your follicular phase,” she says.

That’s what it comes down to for Son. Rather than providing a detailed blueprint for how she should eat, move, work or spend her downtime, cycle syncing has given her licence to simply live more intuitively. “It’s all about empowering yourself, knowing that you can say ‘yes’ or ‘no’ to whatever,” she says. “It doesn’t matter what anyone else is doing—what works for someone else might not work for you. Just listen to yourself and your intuition.”

SYNC UP

A TL;DR on the different phases of your menstrual cycle* and the internet’s advice on what you “should” be doing and eating during each to feel your best.

+ Menstruation (starts on day 1): Estrogen and progesterone levels are low as you shed the uterine lining (which is your period). You may feel more tired and less sociable, so it’s the perfect time for introspective work like journaling and meditation. Opt for iron-rich foods like red meat, leafy greens and beans as well as warm, comforting meals. If you feel like moving your body, prioritize slower-paced workouts like yoga, walking, Pilates and stretching.

+ Follicular phase (days 1–14): Estrogen gradually increases (and so does your energy). Creativity is high, and you might feel the desire to take on new challenges. High-intensity workouts will be your BFF (think HIIT, boxing, strength training and running), as will fresh fruits and veggies, fish, lean meat and whole grains.

+ Ovulation (starts on day 14): Estrogen and progesterone levels peak, and the luteinizing hormone (LH) triggers the release of an egg. You may feel a burst of energy and libido. Now is the perfect time to socialize, network and put yourself out there. Go for more intense workouts, like HIIT, spinning, weightlifting or running, and tuck into eggs, avocado and lots of high-protein foods, like lean meat or tofu.

+ Luteal phase (days 15–28): Progesterone levels gradually rise, while estrogen levels decrease. At the end of this phase, you may experience PMS symptoms like bloating, breast tenderness, cramps and moodiness. Take it a bit easier in the workout department, with light cardio, yoga, walking and Pilates, and stock your cupboards with dark chocolate, nuts, seeds and whole grains. Focus on managing stress, wrapping up projects and nesting so you can rest during your upcoming period.

*Cycles may—and often do—vary. This is just one example.

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Honey LOVE

A revolutionary new serum manages to revive dormant cells to reveal skin that radiates vitality. And it’s all thanks to a little liquid gold…

By SOPHIE BANFORD

Do you believe in zombies? It turns out that as we age, that’s exactly what some cells in our skin can become. They enter a state of senescence, wherein they stop performing their job but don’t get eliminated as they should. Instead, they remain in the body, not quite alive but not dead either, hence their “zombie” nickname.

Such can be the case with our mesenchymal stromal cells (MSCs), which are responsible for activating skin repair.

“Research on skin aging reveals that around the age of 25 to 30, skin cells begin to function less efficiently and their natural repair and defence mechanisms slow down or weaken,” says Dr. Frédéric Bonté, scientific communications director for French skincare brand Guerlain.

It’s quite simple, says the expert: “Poorly repaired skin ages faster.” In time, one might notice more sagging, wrinkles and dullness.

Luckily, Guerlain has recently uncovered a solution. Clinical studies have shown that the latest iteration of its famed Youth Watery Oil Serum can revitalize stressed and senescent stromal cells by a whopping 339 percent. (Au revoir, zombies!) As it happens, the secret was hiding in nature all along—more specifically, in beehives.

Bees and Guerlain go back a long time—all the way to 1853, to be exact. That’s when founder Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain gifted a fragrance to Empress Eugenie for her wedding to Napoleon III. He had the bottle decorated with a bee, which quickly became the emblem of the beauty house. The winged queen has since graced the brand’s packaging and enhanced its formulas with her precious nectars.

Indeed, for 15 years now, Guerlain has been studying the effects of bee products on skin, largely focusing on their repairing properties. The brand even founded the Bee Lab, a one-of-a-kind international research platform bringing together bee experts and biologists who specialize in human skin.

The results of this research are applied in the Abeille Royale skin-repairing line, which is inspired by the honey dressings used for millennia to treat wounds, from Ancient Egypt to even today in some French hospitals. It’s no surprise that the potent range has reached icon status in the skincare world. Last year, one bottle of its star product, the Youth Watery Oil Serum, was sold worldwide every 11 seconds.

And now, thanks to the Bee Lab’s latest breakthrough, the beloved serum is more powerful than ever. Guerlain just unveiled an improved version that revs up skin repair and reverses signs of aging with the help of three black-bee honeys and a royal jelly, the nutrient-rich substance queen bees feed on.

The brand hand-harvests these natural treasures in the world’s most pristine environments. There’s the line’s crown jewel, Ouessant honey, which hails from the island of the same name, declared a “biosphere reserve” by UNESCO. Chock full of vitamins and polyphenols, it plays a key role in skin regeneration. In the revamped serum formula, it is paired with a French royal jelly as well as two other ultra-rare honeys: one that is sourced in the unspoiled wilderness of Ireland’s Connemara region and stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid to intensely hydrate and another that is from Norwegian mountaintops and noticeably strengthens skin. This first-ofits-kind alchemy works its magic at the very heart of stromal cells nestled in the skin’s deepest layers.

The serum has a unique texture—a light water-in-oil fluid—and melts instantly into skin, flooding it with refreshing comfort. With the application of just a few drops, the moisture barrier is fortified and signs of aging are reduced. An hour later, the look of wrinkles has decreased by 25 percent and skin hydration has been boosted by 124 percent. After a month of use, skin is 53 percent firmer, 60 percent more radiant and 56 percent more elastic. The difference is astounding.

Made with 99 percent naturally derived ingredients, this formula is a testimony to not only Guerlain’s scientific expertise but also its unwavering commitment to the planet—specifically, its mission to protect bees, the guardians of biodiversity. For over 10 years now, the company has supported initiatives such as the Brittany Black Bee Conservation Association; Women for Bees, a program established in partnership with UNESCO to empower women through sustainable beekeeping; and Bee Schools, educational sessions to raise children’s awareness of the importance of bees. More than a mere skincare product, this gilded elixir is an invitation to believe in nature’s deeply restorative powers. Using Abeille Royale means having a smooth, glowing complexion, but it also means having the satisfaction of adopting an ethical and sustainable beauty routine. It’s good for the skin and good for the earth.

Night Shift

By EMILY MACCULLOCH

Chin girdles, mouth tape and more: The latest social-media beauty trend is taking evening routines to epic new heights.

THE TERM “BEAUTY SLEEP” CAN BE TRACED BACK TO THE 1820S, when it was proposed that hitting the hay before midnight helps enhance one’s appearance and general well-being. In the 200-plus years since, the phrase has come to encapsulate all manner of salves and rituals aimed at making oneself more attractive by sunrise.

Recall Rachel Brosnahan as a 1950s housewife in The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. Every night, after her husband has fallen asleep at her side, she sneaks out of bed to slather her face in cold cream and put her hair up in rollers, then wakes to stealthily remove the accoutrements and slip back under the covers before his alarm sounds.

If you think that seems a bit extreme, wait until you hear about the “morning shed” trend taking over TikTok. “When I first saw some of these videos, I honestly thought it was more of a joke about people going overboard with their evening routines,” admits Dr. Katie Beleznay, a dermatologist at Vancouver’s Humphrey & Beleznay Cosmetic Dermatology.

The phrase “morning shed” refers to the removal of the hair, skin and wellness paraphernalia one has slept in the night before. Cue videos of influencers bundled up like mummies in silicone sheet masks, mouth tape and heatless curlers. They then proceed to peel back the layers to reveal a dewy epidermis and perfectly coiffed tendrils. The morning-shed motto? “The uglier you go to bed, the hotter you wake up.”

acid may increase [the active’s] intensity and cause irritation,” says Beleznay. Possible side effects include dryness, sensitivity and even skin peeling as a patch is removed, adds Goyal. Another trend that’s sparked a lot of discussion is the use of mouth tape, which forces the wearer to breathe through their nose. Benefits are said to include reduced snoring and fresher breath. Some athletes have even adopted the habit in an effort to improve their performance as there’s been research indicating that nose breathing may better oxygenate the blood. But some proponents also purport that it can have cosmetic effects—namely, a slimmer face and more defined jawline.

Hairstylist and makeup artist Ashley Readings says that’s exactly what it’s done for her. She was already a regular user of nasal strips, her solution for mitigating the effects of seasonal allergies, when she came across mouth tape on social media. It took a bit of getting used to, she admits—“In the beginning, you have to remind your brain that you can still breathe through your nose before you start to panic”—but now she’s hooked. “It’s changed how my face looks,” she raves. “I don’t have the genetics for a sharp jawline or chiselled cheeks, but mouth taping has given my face more structure, which I love.”

THE MORNINGSHED MOTTO?

There’s certainly no shortage of products vowing to help us do just that. But do they actually work? Let’s start with anti-wrinkle face tape and patches. “[These things] are designed to inhibit movements that contribute to wrinkles,” explains Beleznay. The idea is that if you’re unable to scrunch certain face muscles in your sleep, you won’t develop the wrinkles these motions would cause.

“THE UGLIER YOU GO TO BED, THE HOTTER YOU WAKE UP.”

Goyal has a few concerns about covering the mouth and stopping airflow completely. “This could be especially dangerous for someone who already has restricted nasal airflow—think someone with a cold who is congested and needs to breathe through their mouth,” she says. “Also, the adhesive from the tape might be irritating to the skin for some.”

Dr. Neha Goyal, co-medical director at MD Beauty Clinic, which has locations in Toronto and Mississauga, says this practice can actually be beneficial, as “the more you can prevent movement, the better your results and ability to fight off signs of aging.”

It all comes down to using a good-quality product—one that doesn’t irritate the skin—consistently and correctly, as improper use could even worsen lines. The results, however, are temporary, says Goyal. “Think of it as ironing an outfit but the moment it’s worn, you’ll develop a wrinkle.”

While Goyal sees the potential upsides of using these patches, she’s not a big fan of their sheet-mask counterparts. “Sleeping in sheet masks can be problematic unless they’re intended for overnight use,” says the expert. As most on the market are designed to be left on for 10 to 30 minutes, prolonged use can lead to issues such as skin maceration (when the skin barrier becomes damaged because of overhydration), clogged pores or breakouts. “The sheet mask could also become ‘overdry’ and, paradoxically, start pulling moisture back out of the skin,” she says.

What about applying an ointment (a trend referred to as “slugging”) or a silicone mask over your skincare to “seal” it in?

“Layering occlusive products or a mask over retinol or glycolic

As for aesthetic benefits, there are currently no studies on the matter. However, Goyal mentions that chin girdles, also popular with the morning-shed crowd, are sometimes used after a procedure—such as liposuction in the chin area—to optimize the outcome and minimize swelling. “I’m not opposed to a well-fitted jawline girdle for long-term use,” she says. “While it may not help structurally, it might help reduce some jawline fullness from swelling overnight and keep the skin from being pulled down by friction.”

There may be some debate over the efficacy of certain face-care trends associated with the morning-shed movement, but the hair portion of the program is much less controversial and, for the most part, nothing new. For instance, silk bonnets and hair wraps, as seen in many a morning-shed video, have been used by Black women for centuries, while rollers were a mainstay in the ’50s. Content creators have riffed on the latter, using all manner of “tools”—from foam curling rods to scarves and bathrobe belts—to style their strands overnight.

Laetitia Jallais has tried them all. “TikTok made me do it!” she jokes. After decades of subjecting her hair to scorching irons, the public relations VP and mom of two was on the hunt for a quick, easy and less aggressive way to curl her locks. That was over two years ago, and she’s been a heatless convert ever since (“My hair is beautiful and soft, and the curls hold well,” she reports), much to her husband’s amusement. “It always makes him laugh,” she says of her nighttime coifs. As she has found out, though, some of these devices aren’t exactly comfortable to sleep in. Her advice: Go for small-diameter

BEAUTY

squishy curlers (as bigger ones tend to be more cumbersome, she says) or even fleece socks, which “fit snugly and don’t interfere with sleep at all.”

Celebrity hair pro Justine Marjan, whose client roster includes Kendall Jenner and Ashley Graham, is also a big advocate of heatless curlers, as they’re “a great low-maintenance way to style the hair while preserving its health.” However, she advises against using them on sopping-wet hair. “Hair is more fragile when it’s wet and therefore more prone to breakage,” she explains. “Sleeping with wet hair can also cause issues like mould or fungus on the scalp.”

If you’re looking to mend damage, she recommends leaving in a strengthening treatment to repair your strands while you snooze. But her top piece of nighttime-hair advice is to swap your cotton pillowcase for a silk one, which minimizes friction as you toss and turn and thus reduces breakage and frizz. “It’s such a passive way to get tons of benefits for your hair while you’re sleeping.”

The emphasis here is on “passive,” as so many morning-shed practices make going to bed a whole lot of work. “The thing that sort of irks me about [this] is that we—mainly women—are constantly trying to uphold limiting beauty standards while appearing like it took no work to get there,” says Readings. Inherent to this social-media craze is the suggestion that women should constantly be striving to be the most palatable version of themselves—even while they sleep.

But here’s the thing: While caring for your skin at night is important, says Beleznay, it doesn’t need to involve girdles or a 12-step regimen. Instead, the dermatologist says, most people would benefit simply from some retinol and a good moisturizer—easy-peasy. (Not into retinol? Try other tried-and-true ingredients, like glycolic acid, peptides or antioxidants.)

Another easy thing you can do is try to avoid sleeping on your face, says Goyal, as it can contribute to the formation of wrinkles. That said, if you can’t sleep on your back, don’t worry, says the pro, “because getting sleep is more important overall.”

Indeed, on top of the heaps of amazing things it does for our body and mind (including a healthier heart, a stronger immune system and better mood and focus), sleep is also fabulous for our complexion. While we’re off in dreamland, our skin undergoes its most intensive repair and renewal processes. “This regeneration helps replace damaged cells, reducing visible signs of aging, like fine lines,” says Beleznay. “Your body also ramps up collagen production while you sleep, which is essential for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity.”

In other words, when it comes to beauty sleep, it seems that nothing tops good old rest—deep, delicious, restorative rest. Sweet dreams, all.

SLUMBER PARTY

Beauty-boosters that make the most of your shut-eye.

Cushiony

BODY LANGUAGE

An ingredient-focused, skincare-like approach to caring for your body? DOVE ’s doing it— and at a highly approachable price point.

THE DEVOTED STEPS, the carefully chosen ingredients, the resultsdriven formulas... Nothing comes between you and your scrupulously refined skincare routine. But how about the other 94.5 percent of your skin? If the extent of your body care is limited to a random slather of lotion every once in a while (and only when hydration is at dire levels), it’s time to elevate your routine in a major way.

Enter the Dove Crème Serum collection, a revolutionary body-care range that adopts the same concern-targeted principles as skincare. Developed with dermatologists and tested by real women, this lineup of specialized products is a complete game-changer for the rest of our often-overlooked but equally-in-need body.

Serum, which delivers results in just two days; the cold-weather hero Prebiotic + Protection Crème Serum, which is clinically proven to visibly relieve dry skin from redness and discomfort in five days; the Hyaluronic + Hydration Crème Serum for alleviating dry patches and flakiness; and, finally, the Pro-Ceramide + Repair Crème Serum, which is crafted to visibly relieve skin from redness and discomfort in two weeks.

“Many people—even those who are very into skincare— neglect their skin below the neck,” says Dr. Katie Beleznay, a dermatologist practising at Humphrey & Beleznay Cosmetic Dermatology in Vancouver. “This can lead to the skin on your body having poor barrier function, which can contribute to dryness and irritation.” And all those visible signs of aging on your face that you fixate on? Those same concerns can crop up everywhere else, Beleznay adds.

Just like with your skincare regimen, finding your Dove Crème Serum match is a completely individualized experience: There’s the high-potency Niacinamide + Even Tone Crème Serum, which reduces the appearance of dark spots in just two weeks; the Targeted Serum, designed to firm and tone the skin; the elasticity-focused Pro-Retinol + Firming Crème

Each of the Dove Crème Serum offerings is formulated with top-tier ingredients typically found in face-care products to restore and replenish for healthy-looking skin. “Many products designed for facial skincare would be considered quite expensive to use over your whole body, so I love that body-care products are now being formulated with more active ingredients,” says Beleznay.

As such, derm-recommended skincare staples, like niacinamide, prebiotic glycerine, collagen peptides, pro-ceramides and retinol, have starring roles in the six-product collection. Plus, Dove nixes all the irritants for a collection of highly considered (and beautifully tolerated) formulas; they are non-comedogenic, non-greasy, fast-absorbing and parabenand dye-free as well as clinically tested and designed to be gentle enough for sensitive skin.

Looking to build a simple but intentional routine? Beleznay suggests using a different formulation in the morning and the evening (say the Prebiotic + Protection and then the Pro-Retinol + Firming) to address multiple skin concerns in tandem.

APRIL

THIS MONTH, PUT PLAYFULNESS FIRST.

TOP AND JEANS (STELLA MCCARTNEY) AND RINGS (MM6 AT SSENSE)

Boss Moves

CANADIAN ACTOR SOPHIE NÉLISSE IS READY FOR THE NEXT PHASE OF HER CAREER.

BY JOANNA FOX PHOTOGRAPHER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR ROYAL GILBERT STYLIST OLIVIA LEBLANC

People can’t take their eyes off Sophie Nélisse. Whether she’s onscreen or in the bustling Montreal restaurant where we meet for our interview, the 25-year-old Canadian actor’s magnetic pull can’t be denied.

On this cold January day, she is casually dressed in jeans and a loose turtleneck sweater, with unfussy hair and barely-there makeup, yet there’s something about her that attracts people’s attention. Their gaze lingers on her face when speaking to her, or their glance at our table lasts just a second or two too long. It’s a testament to her innate star quality—that proverbial “It factor”—which has landed her many lauded roles, including a pivotal one in the Showtime hit series Yellowjackets, which recently premiered its third season on Crave to rave reviews.

Nélisse’s career didn’t just blow up overnight, though. Born in Windsor, Ont., she moved to Montreal around the age of four and has been working since she was seven. As an aspiring Olympic gymnast, she decided to pursue acting as a way to help fund her training and travel expenses. After doing a few commercials, she got her breakout role in the 2011 Oscar-nominated Quebec film, Monsieur Lazhar, and subsequently won a Genie (now called a Canadian Screen Award) and a Jutra Award for her performance. She was only 11 at the time.

Up until this point, Nélisse, who grew up in a French-speaking household but knew English (her mother is from Newfoundland and her father is Belgian), had only been auditioning for roles in Quebec, but Monsieur Lazhar changed everything. “That [film] hit such a wide audience that American [talent] agencies saw me and wanted to represent

BODYSUIT (NINA RICCI), TIGHTS (SIMONS) AND NECKLACE (CHOPARD)

me,” she says. Things picked up quickly from there, and her next major role was in 2013’s The Book Thief, alongside Geoffrey Rush and Emily Watson, which opened the doors for Nélisse to a wider global audience. She also credits the film’s dialect coach—who helped her with her German accent— with helping her perfect her North American-English accent.

Given Nélisse’s young age at the time, I can’t help but wonder if she was aware of what was going on around her and could gauge the success level of the projects she was in and the people she was working with. “I was definitely aware with [Monsieur Lazhar] because it went to the Oscars,” she says. “I don’t think I was expecting it to drastically change my life or open so many doors. Even with The Book Thief, I realized the success, but I don’t think I fully grasped how dramatically it changed my life until way later in my career.”

Nélisse didn’t have early ambitions to be an actor, but the more she did it, the more she enjoyed it. She was also very good at it. “I wasn’t putting any pressure on myself; I was just having fun with it,” she says. “I wasn’t as disappointed when I [didn’t] get a role because I was like, ‘Oh, this is ultimately just for fun.’ I think it kept me grounded as well because I wasn’t looking to become famous or popular—that was never the idea.” This attitude allowed Nélisse to have some degree of normalcy and balance. Her family never made her work central to their lives either. “If I had told my mom that I wanted to stop acting at any time, she would have said, ‘Perfect—do something else,’” she says.

At a certain point, though, Nélisse made the choice to leave gymnastics and pursue acting as a career, and she has since accumulated more than 30

roles in productions in Quebec, the rest of Canada and beyond. One of her most recognized to date, though, is the teenage version of Shauna in the wildly popular psychological thriller/drama Yellowjackets, which premiered in November 2021. “It happened so quickly—it was the quickest I’ve ever gotten anything,” she says of landing the part. “They were two weeks away from shooting. When I got cast, my team was so excited for me. Everyone in the agency was raving about the show—there was buzz around it from the start.”

And rightly so, as the show not only received critical acclaim (with an impressive 140 award nominations for the first two seasons) but also ignited a devoted fan following, with endless chat groups, Reddit threads and media speculation about the characters and storyline. For those who’ve somehow

DRESS, SHOES AND EARRINGS (BOTTEGA VENETA)

“THAT’S SOMETHING THAT’S REALLY IMPORTANT FOR ME—I WANT TO MAKE A POINT THAT NO MATTER HOW SUCCESSFUL I MAY GET, I WANT TO BE A PERSON YOU [WANT TO] WORK WITH.”

missed the Yellowjackets fever, the series centres around the members of a girls high school soccer team who survive a plane crash in 1996 and are stranded deep in the Canadian wilderness for 19 months. It also focuses on the lives of the survivors 25 years later and how the events of those months in the woods affected their lives. With a star-studded cast that includes Melanie Lynskey (who plays the adult version of Nélisse’s character), Christina Ricci and Juliette Lewis, the show garnered attention for delving into cannibalism, psychedelic paganesque rituals and the supernatural—the perfect recipe for a creepy and crazy-addictive watch. But what has really locked in the show’s fan base is the strength and conviction of the characters, especially Nélisse’s, whose story arc takes her from reserved and quiet best friend to angry pregnant teenager howling in the deep, dark forest covered in mud and clawing at the ground. Her sheer rage at the uncontrollable situation is what fuels her survival and makes for many intense scene-stealing moments.

Although the teenage characters and their adult selves don’t share scenes, Nélisse really bonded with New Zealand-born Lynskey, who also got her start as a teenager when she starred opposite Kate Winslet in Peter Jackson’s award-winning 1994 film, Heavenly Creatures, and has been working consistently ever since. “She’s like a second mom,” says Nélisse. “I ask her advice about acting, finding your way in the industry and cutting through all the bullshit. [The industry] is hard to navigate because it’s very different from Montreal—Hollywood is a machine. And I think not being from L.A. gives her the same outsider perspective, so I asked her about that and how she came about and who to trust and what are

the mistakes I should avoid.” She also loves Lynskey because she’s the type of person who is so kind, remembers everyone’s name and is just genuinely a pleasure to be around. “That’s something that’s really important for me—I want to make a point that no matter how successful I may get, I want to be a person you [want to] work with.”

Lynskey is also a fan of her co-star, who reminds her of her younger self. “We both really trust our instincts—in our performances and also with people,” she writes in an email of their similarities. “She is a very good judge of character, and that really helps in this business. You can be kind but also protect yourself, and that’s a quality I’ve always been grateful to have. I have known when to avoid someone who doesn’t have good intentions, and Sophie can call it immediately. She is not naive at all. She’s very strong, and that’s something you need to make it in a very challenging business.”

Over the past few years, Nélisse has grown close to her Yellowjackets teammate co-stars as well. When the show first aired, the girls started a text chain called “Naughty ’90s”; in it, they would post shots of billboards and advertisements as well as fan theories in a kind of “pinch me” disbelief that they were all on this crazy ride together. “We know each other so well now—on a personal level and on an acting level,” says Nélisse. “We all know our dynamics. And I love when we get into a scene that I’ve read a certain way and then when we rehearse it, the magic really happens as everyone chimes in and brings their own [character] into it.”

If there’s one thing to know about this show, it’s that it’s wildly unpredictable, which means that a character you love could be there one episode and

SHIRT AND TROUSERS (ISSEY MIYAKE), SOCKS (HEXAVOGUE) AND SHOES (STELLA MCCARTNEY)

SKIRT (MICHAEL KORS), EARRINGS (JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AT SSENSE) AND RINGS (CHOPARD)

gone the next. The comfort for Nélisse and the other actors whose characters’ adult selves are in the present-day storyline is that they can’t get killed off. “It’s always a little awkward when we read an episode and a character dies,” she says. “The next day, we walk on-set and we all know that, like, they’re leaving. We always do these death parties—like, little going-away parties to celebrate the girls who are [going to die].”

Although Nélisse is pretty tight-lipped about what’s to come, she does reveal that a lot will be explained. “When I started reading the third season and saw how mean Shauna got—like, really lashing out at so many people—I was like, ‘Oh, this is really fun,’” she says. “And it’s going in a completely different direction from past seasons because we get a lot of answers to questions we’ve had since the beginning.”

Yellowjackets may have brought Nélisse greater international attention, but she’s still keeping busy here at home. She’s in Two Women ( Deux femmes en or ), directed by Quebecer Chloé Robichaud, which won the World Cinema Dramatic Special Jury Award for Writing at this year’s Sundance Film Festival and will be in theatres early summer. She’ll also be returning to Quebec television this spring in a new series, L’Indétectable , which will be premiering on ICI TOU.TV (Radio-Canada’s French language streaming platform). She’s taking everything in her stride, though, and trying to stay grounded and focused. “I think you just have to have really good goals,” she says. “Because if you’re the hot item of the moment, it’s really easy to let that go to your head. But ultimately, I know what my actual priorities are.”

After being on the actor’s side of the camera for so many years, Nélisse ultimately wants to make some boss moves of her own by expanding her knowledge of and experience in the industry and taking more control over her projects. For example, she’s trying to produce something based on a book she

bought the rights to and is having meetings to help finance the project. She’s also writing her own script. “I like the idea of knowing a bit of everything,” she says. “I love the idea of knowing how a script got written, so let me try to write one for myself. Maybe it won’t go anywhere, but I like an activity [that] I don’t feel pressure to be good at and [can] just try for fun. And if something happens, great; if not, I’ll just see it as a learning [experience]. It’s the same with producing—maybe I’ll never produce a big movie that is seen by millions, but just to do it and see the background work of an entire production I think is really important.”

In terms of what’s next for the young actor, she’d also love to expand her acting repertoire. “I’m really in a place in my life where I want to explore—whether it’s a comedy, a romantic comedy or, [to use] my athletic background, an action film. I just want to widen my horizons and do a bit of everything.” On the top of that wish list is working with local talent and Oscar-nominated director Denis Villeneuve. “It would be my dream,” she gushes.

Nélisse is focused, down-to-earth, kind, sweet and considerate, but what impresses me most after spending a couple of days with her is her perspective on this whole experience: She recognizes the incredible journey she’s on and the importance of taking a step back and looking at how far she’s come. “If you were already where you wanted to be tomorrow, what else would you have to look forward to?” she asks. “What would you be striving for? I think it’s important to take a second to be in the moment. Like, 10-yearold me would be really proud. And, yeah, it’s okay to want more and try to achieve more, but I think it’s also important to sometimes be proud of yourself and not compare yourself to others.”

In an extremely competitive industry, Nélisse tries to stay laser-focused. “It will take how long it takes,” she says of her path. “It really is about the experiences you have along the way that make you appreciate the end result even more.”

WORK

THE SPRING/SUMMER 2025 BOTTEGA VENETA COLLECTION EXPLORES FREEDOM AND WHIMSY WITH OVERSIZED SUITING, PLAYFUL SHAPES AND THE CLEAN LINES OF THE ITALIAN HOUSE’S TOP-HANDLE ANDIAMO BAG.

Photographer BRENT GOLDSMITH

Creative director & stylist OLIVIA LEBLANC

(FOLIO MANAGEMENT); HAIRSTYLIST, AXEL KAMALI; EDITORIAL PRODUCER, PÉNÉLOPE LEMAY; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN, PASCAL FRÉCHETTE; LIGHTING TECHNICIAN, JEAN-CHRISTOPHE JACQUES; STYLIST’S ASSISTANT, SARAH M’BENGUE; LOCATION, FONDERIE DARLING

In Bloom

By LEAH VAN LOON

WE’VE ALL HEARD THE AXIOM that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure, but nowhere is this better exemplified than in the remarkable workshop of plasticien William Amor, who once dreamed of being a botanist but now creates fanciful floral hybrids for haute couture maisons. Upon entering his atelier in the Villa du Lavoir, a small enclave of artisan studios in Paris’ 10th Arrondissement, you are greeted by a lush garden—populated by poppies, roses, irises and mimosas—along the windowsill. Upon closer inspection, you’ll see that the blooms reveal their true nature: They’re actually made from plastic waste, now irrevocably crafted into something precious and beautiful. Amor’s philosophy is not only poetic but practical too: “I try to be an alchemist by transforming what is judged to be of no value into the most beautiful thing on earth: a flower.” Elevating seemingly worthless materials—namely, discarded plastic from everyday

life—is the objective of his work; he aims to impart meaning and dignity to objects we consider to have fulfilled their one purpose. Amor started out more than 20 years ago with a desire to bring attention to the problem of single-use plastics in our careless throwaway culture. Growing up in the French countryside, he gravitated toward the field of botany but then realized that the detached scientific approach to nature didn’t appeal to him. Upon moving to Paris from Nancy in the mid-2000s, he worked in communications, representing artisans and creatives in the fashion sector. Then, inspired by the craftsmanship of paruriers fabricating flowers for haute couture houses, Amor found himself looking for ways to connect with his own creative ambitions. The plastic bag, he decided, was a good place to start as it had the potential to be manipulated and shaped into the petals of his envisioned blooms.

Haute couture artisan WILLIAM AMOR transforms plastic waste into stunning floral creations.

Entirely self-taught, Amor is a rarity in the world of haute couture, where most artisans learn via long apprenticeships with legacy houses. He started his studio in 2015 and named it Les Créations Messagères—“creations with a message”— solidifying his commitment to looking at ecology as a poetic offering. He was honoured with an artist-in-residence studio term with the Ateliers de Paris in 2017 and won a number of prestigious awards, including the Grand Prix de la Création de la Ville de Paris in 2019. In addition to realizing sumptuous fantasies for the designers of haute couture brands from Balmain to Balenciaga, Amor has created pieces for beauty brands Guerlain and Lancôme and luxury-jewellery maisons Chopard and Piaget.

Amor’s process begins with selecting materials from the assortment of waste products he collects—think plastic bags and bottles dropped on the streets of Paris or pieces of fishing net discarded on the beaches of Mimizan in southwest France. After the objects are cleaned and sanitized, the work to realize his vision begins. Like a sculptor who chips away at stone to find the hidden figure within, Amor uses the characteristics of his chosen materials to inspire their metamorphosis. Lightweight plastic bags are reimagined as lofty feathers or the pleated petals of delicate poppies; fishing nets become the stamens and stigma of his flowers, imparting a surprising dimension to his upcycled fanciful gardens. Particularly surprising is his transformation of the most ubiquitous detritus of Paris: cigarette butts, which are cleaned and crafted into the delicate fluffy yellow flowers found on the mimosa tree. “It’s heresy to consider anything waste,” he says, adding that his conservation efforts in his small studio also involve using less water and keeping every scrap of extra material for future projects.

When Amor collaborates with the creative directors of major fashion houses, he stays true to his ideals, with rejuvenation and revival being the underlying messages of each piece. “When I’m called upon for my sensitive universe and know-how, I position myself as an interpreter,” he says. “I’m focused on creating unique works full of meaning and poetry.”

He has, for example, used the thick plastic from single-use water bottles to create colourful handcrafted roses—the late Pierre Balmain’s favourite flower—for Olivier Rousteing’s

whimsical spring/summer 2024 Balmain couture collection. Amor also used his rare traditional flower-crafting tools to cut and shape plastic petals that were then lightly pleated to mimic fine silk before being turned into an enormous bouquet of roses (titled Theatre of Metamorphosis) for the 2024 design exhibition Homo Faber Venice, which was curated by Challengers filmmaker Luca Guadagnino. He even made flower brooches—which could have been mistaken for glass and crystal but were crafted from aluminum cans, bits of dyed and burned fishing net and plastic bottles that were engraved with jeweller’s tools and then gilded with gold leaf—for the Versace spring/summer 2025 runway.

In one of his most elaborate projects, for Balenciaga’s spring/summer 2025 show in Shanghai, Amor created the lofty baby-pink “feathers” creative director Demna used in the spectacular off-the-shoulder finale gown. “It took over 1,600 hours to transform waste deemed worthless into precious feathers. [It involved] selecting the white bags, cleaning them, removing the inks from the logos and then [using] a dyeing process to obtain this powdery pink,” explains Amor. The treated bags were then cut into 7,000 feather-size pieces before being wired so the maison’s couturiers could attach them to the dress. This work in particular exemplifies the surprising realism his studio is capable of.

The materials Amor uses aren’t just reserved for transformation and utility; they also guide him in a lifestyle that’s in tune with nature and other people. “I started out alone 20 years ago, but today [I think] it’s important to feel alive, to grow, to surround yourself with others and transmit your vision, sensitivity and philosophy.” He clarifies that the magic of his art would not be possible without his team of assistants, who help him prepare the waste so it can become raw material for his creations. This generosity of spirit is also behind how he operates his business; he works with the Franco-British Sillery Foundation to invite people with disabilities, who often live on the margins of society, to learn his techniques and be part of his community. He hopes his philosophy of respect shows in his commitment to breaking down judgments about worth. “Everything has a positive value,” he says. “We just need to take a good look at what surrounds us, including human beings.”

“I TRY TO BE AN ALCHEMIST BY TRANSFORMING WHAT IS JUDGED TO BE OF NO VALUE INTO THE MOST BEAUTIFUL THING ON EARTH: A FLOWER.”

SACRED WATERS

On a new expedition cruise in Australia, travellers connect with Indigenous culture.

By CHLOE BERGE

THE KIMBERLEY REGION, a remote area in northwestern Australia, is often touted as one of the country’s last great wilderness frontiers. The area has a population of fewer than 40,000 people, covers over 420,000 square kilometres and is marked by monsoon forest, coral reefs, tidal mud flats, a red-rock escarpment that’s home to nesting ospreys and mangroves where saltwater crocodiles lurk in shallow waters. But Western ideas of untouched wilderness often neglect to acknowledge the Indigenous people who have lived on the land for millennia.

Luxury-cruise line Seabourn is hoping to help change that. For its Kimberley Expedition cruises, which launched last June, its newest ship, the Pursuit, sails along the territory of five First Nations peoples, with whom the company has been working to create parts of the expedition and some of the excursions.

“In our initial meetings with the Wunambal Gaambera Traditional Owners, I expressed that I wanted to bring them more into this story of the Kimberley, because at the moment, I feel like it’s missing,” says Michael Mihajlov, senior director of destination management for Carnival Australia, Seabourn’s parent company, who was instrumental in facilitating the Indigenous partnership.

The result of these discussions was a declaration of the Wunambal Gaambera nation as the godparents—or, in the Gaambera language, garrangarru, which means “mother” or “listener”—of the Pursuit. The announcement was symbolic

of the company’s commitment to cultural sustainability in the Kimberley. More than that, its partnership with the Wunambal Gaambera is providing funding for Indigenous artists and artisans, which is spurring a commercial industry as well as helping develop tourism offerings, making the nation an active stakeholder in coastal tourism in the region.

On the signature 10-day cruise, the Pursuit, which has capacity for 264 passengers, sails down the Kimberley coast from Darwin, in the Northern Territory, to Broome. This is Seabourn’s second purpose-built expedition ship, and in addition to boasting a sleek design, it comes outfitted with two six-person submarines as well as 24 Zodiacs, which zip along waterways to discover hard-to-reach natural wonders.

At sunrise, guests can motor out to Montgomery Reef, the world’s largest inshore reef, as the silver tide recedes to reveal mangroves and sandstone islets. Winding along the Hunter River, travellers will spot herds of saltwater crocodiles warming themselves on sun-baked shores. And a trip down the King George River ends with a surprise champagne toast against the backdrop of the highest twin waterfalls in Australia. In Vansittart Bay, the Zodiacs land at Ngula, or Jar Island, an important Wunambal Gaambera cultural site. Sandy trails flanked by pink hibiscus lead to two different Gwion Gwion pictograph sites, so named for the Gwion birds that in Wunambal mythology were said to have created the

rock art with their tail feathers. On the walls of shadowy sandstone caves, the ancient ochre paintings—thought to be at least 17,000 years old—depict wildlife such as echidnas and emus as well as human figures.

Seabourn worked closely with the local First Nation to develop the experience at this sacred site, one of 50 designated visitor locations on its traditional land, accessed through a pass that Seabourn secures behind the scenes. “This enables us to build the capacity of our people to live on [their traditional native land], maintain our rangers’ work, share and practise our culture, manage tourism infrastructure and protect our country the right way,” says Catherine Goonack, chair of the Wunambal Gaambera Aboriginal Corporation. Along with the Western Australian government, Seabourn is funding the development of a visitor centre and dry-season accommodation on the island for the nation, which would allow its people to return to their traditional land.

“We worked with the First Nations to learn about their customs, their ways and how our visits could have a positive impact for them and for our guests,” says Robin West, vice-president and general manager of expeditions for Seabourn. The initiative is part of Carnival Australia’s Reflect Reconciliation Action Plan, which was inspired by Reconciliation Australia, a non-profit that aims to build equitable relationships and respect between Aboriginal peoples and the wider Australian community as part of reparations for the country’s colonial past.

On another day, a landing at Freshwater Cove allows visitors to take in a second rock-art site, this one depicting Wandjina, or traditional Aboriginal creator spirits. These pictographs are on the lands of the Dambimangari Traditional Owners, who lead excursions along with Seabourn’s own Dambimangari guides. Here, the nation welcomes visitors, announcing their arrival to the ancestors and providing a cleansing and a blessing of protection with heady eucalyptus smoke on their departure.

Back on board the 132-suite Pursuit after a day in the searing Australian sun, sublime respite awaits guests. Each room is outfitted with a spacious balcony (there are sprawling twolevel suites as well) and a fully stocked mini-bar and comes with 24-hour room service—which even has endless caviar and champagne on offer. There are also eight bars and restaurants to choose from—including a swish sushi and cocktail lounge—plus a library, a café, a spa, glass-walled saunas with panoramic ocean views and an infinity pool from where guests can spot dolphins and humpback whales.

But the real luxury of the Kimberley Expedition is exploring a part of Australia that few have the privilege of seeing—a place where a landscape of blue waters and towering red sandstone cliffs is home to the traditional custodians of this land, who graciously welcome travellers to experience their ancient culture. “Our goal is for Seabourn guests to enjoy their visit with us and have an enlightened experience of our people, culture and country,” says Goonack. “We say to expeditioners ‘Biaanga graa winya,’ or ‘Welcome to our country.’”

SEABOURN PURSUIT PANORAMA SUITE

Conscious CUISINE

Take a seat at some of Canada’s most sustainable tables.

By LYNNE FAUBERT

IN JUNE 2013, TORRENTIAL RAIN hammered down on the city of Calgary. The team at River Café—which is perched on an island with direct views of the downtown core—watched in a panic as water rose all around it. “We basically looked like a boat floating down the river and, however unintentionally, became a symbol of climate change in Alberta and Canada,” recalls owner Sal Howell, who has been running the restaurant for over 33 years.

Ranked among Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants in 2024, River Café has long been a proponent of sustainability in ways that have bolstered its ability to survive and thrive. “We first leaned into sustainability by building with recycled materials,” says Howell. “Then, after all the flooding, we renovated with resilience top of mind so we can bounce back faster next time.” And a next time, of course, is inevitable.

Tim Moroney is the chef and owner of Quebec City restaurant Alentours—named by enRoute as one of Canada’s top 10 new restaurants in 2022—and he, too, has chosen to build his eatery and its menu around sustainable development. “People forget how fast climate change is happening and how very pressing a problem it is,” he says. “We shouldn’t be worried about 10 years down the road—it’s here now.” Alentours is the only restaurant in the provincial capital that cooks with 100 percent electric appliances—which is more energy efficient than gas and produces fewer emissions—a statistic Moroney would like to see changed.

Alentours—which means “surroundings” in French— procures most of its supplies within a 150-kilometre radius, hence the moniker. “I know the families who raise the

animals; I know how well the animals are being fed and that they’re being treated humanely,” says Moroney. Livestock is purchased whole and butchered by the Alentours team, ensuring that no part of the animal goes to waste.

Moroney admits that guests don’t always grasp just how much effort goes into making his venture a sustainable one, but ears perk up whenever the subject arises.

“People don’t understand why the restaurant is open only two nights a week,” he says. “It’s because we spend the rest of the week sourcing and preparing the ingredients you’ll find in those weekend dishes. Sustainability is built into everything we do on a day-to-day basis—it’s foundational to our approach.”

As for Howell, she’s learned that the path to sustainability is laid one small brick at a time. She wasn’t looking to start

a revolution or convert diners on day one with River Café. Rather, she began by offering well-loved regional ingredients like duck and wild salmon. Her local leanings are usually met with appreciation—but not always. “I have loyal customers who ask me why they can’t have lemon zest in their martini,” says Howell. “And I respond by inviting them to explore something more unique that grows here. Some people will never be convinced by our way of thinking, and that’s okay.” Folks who do decide to journey alongside Howell (when, for example, she replaces Italian olive oil with its camelina counterpart from Saskatchewan) are rewarded with a one-of-a-kind, deeply thoughtful culinary experience.

At Maison Boire in Granby, Que., chef and owner Brian Proulx has spared no expense when it comes to the environment. In 2020, his restaurant earned LEAF certification, becoming one of the greenest restaurants in Canada. To get there, Proulx had to undergo an audit looking at food sourcing, energy and water consumption, supplies, building location and architecture, waste and recycling management and more. The establishment boasts its own gardens, and the place settings are made in a pottery studio housed in the restaurant’s garage. The building’s slanted roof collects rainwater, while the on-site hens eat leftovers to tackle food waste, and what they don’t want gets composted. “We even use ash from the fireplace to make soap,” says Proulx. Despite all said efforts, last year, Proulx stopped publicizing his eco-friendly values via the Maison Boire website for one simple reason: “It doesn’t bring guests through the door. We worked for three years to dream up a menu without olive oil, lemon, chocolate or coffee beans—an exhilarating challenge for any chef. But many diners want to wind down their experience with a cup of coffee, and for some, that’s non-negotiable.”

Although he still cooks with pine, verjus and sunflower oil, Proulx admits to having gone back to buying lemons from Mexico. Lobster, however, poses a more profound moral

THE POTTERY STUDIO AT MAISON BOIRE

RESTAURANT ALENTOURS

dilemma. “Maine lobster is closer to us, it arrives fresher than lobster from Gaspésie and it has a lesser carbon footprint,” he says. “On the other hand, when it comes to supporting a sustainable local economy, buying from Maine means spending our money abroad, while lobster sourced from Gaspésie sustains local fisheries. It’s a damned-if-you-do-damned-if-you-don’t kind of sustainability quandary!”

Confronted with similar challenges at Alentours, Moroney has opted to dive in headfirst. “What if we totally surrendered to the necessity of eating local? I don’t want to be the food police, but why would I source lobster trapped 1,000 kilometres from Quebec City when I can get other, equally wonderful products right around the corner?” Moroney also only serves Quebec wines because in his experience, they’re much better than the critics let on.

Howell also usually gauges sustainability based on how many kilometres a product has travelled. “We’ve always tried to serve what swims in our rivers and grazes in our fields as well as Indigenous and local ingredients that are unique to our part of the world,” she says. “But since the pandemic, Canadians have had to think more about food sovereignty—because we all know what’s coming. So we choose to buy Canadian, even though California is closer, and we’ll source fish from Fogo Island, Newfoundland.” Howell underscores that sustainability is not some kind of state of nirvana that you’ll only reach when you’ve done everything perfectly; rather, it’s an ongoing process of everyday decision-making. “At a small restaurant, there are always calls to be made,” she says. “Some are easy, some are tricky and some are downright impossible.” If diners keep coming through the doors, we’ll know their tough calls have been the right ones.

ECO-CERTIFIED

There are several networks and certifications out there to help you pick restaurants that put their money where their (sustainable) mouth is:

+ Aliments du Québec au Menu is a program that shines a spotlight on the efforts eateries make to showcase Quebec products and suppliers. This extends as much to fast-food chains, like fried-chicken purveyor Roch le Coq, as it does to renowned restaurants, such as Côté Est in Kamouraska, Chez Rioux & Pettigrew in Quebec City and Montreal’s Les Mômes.

+ O ver in Ontario, the Feast On program is committed to promoting the province’s prodigious food offerings alongside local farmers and restaurateurs. On its roll, you’ll find premier establishments like Langdon Hall in Cambridge and Toronto’s 20 Victoria, Quetzal and Osteria Giulia.

+ Westward to Vancouver, keep an eye out for the Green Table Network , which highlights a wide range of restaurants, public markets and vineyards that have gone green. A sign of the times: The network’s two best-known institutions—Bishop’s and Forage—have both gone out of business, having recently fallen prey to market inflation and renoviction.

+ Logos like Quebec’s Fourchette bleue and Canadawide Ocean Wise let you know which Canadian restaurants serve up sustainably sourced seafood.

RIVER CAFÉ

GREEN GOODNESS

Delectably creamy and versatile AVOCADOS FROM MEXICO make cooking a highly creative endeavour.

FEW INGREDIENTS can compete with Avocados From Mexico, between their inherent versatility, unsurpassed flavour and impeccable freshness. One of the world’s most coveted varietals, this multi-faceted fruit has been cultivated for centuries, always adhering to a deeprooted tradition of greatness. And since they grow in Mexico’s volcanic-rich soil in consistently optimal conditions, these green gems are available year-round with unparalleled quality (think creamy texture, a rich, vibrant taste and incredible consistency).

Think avocados start and stop with guacamole? Spanning the sweet to savoury spectrum, their applications go way beyond the tortilla chip-adjacent classic. Looking to make your post-workout smoothie that much more wholesome and heart healthy? Add Avocados From Mexico, which boast more than 20 vitamins and minerals plus the good fats that reduce inflammation. Need a quick, on-time lunch idea? A dressed-up avocado toast always hits the spot. For dinner, the options are deliciously endless: fresh summer rolls, a green-goddess-style pasta salad, avocado-dotted ceviche and more. Whether they’re sliced, diced, mashed or blended, these produce powerhouses lend an irresistible element to any dish.

To expand your avocado know-how, we tapped Stephanie Baryluk, an Indigenous chef based out of Tsawwassen, B.C., to imagine an all-new way to make the most out of Avocados From Mexico. Her singularly crafted recipe—Avocado Fried Bannock With Spruce-Tip Whipped Butter—highlights a delicious Indigenous fried bread along with the fruit’s multi-faceted nature and satisfying bite.

AVOCADO FRIED BANNOCK WITH SPRUCE-TIP WHIPPED BUTTER

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

3 Avocados From Mexico, divided

1 tbsp (15 mL) + ½ tbsp (8 mL) lemon juice

1/4 cup (60 mL) sugar

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

3 tsp (15 mL) baking powder

3/4 cup (180 mL) warm water

1 tbsp (15 mL) canola oil + more for frying

1 cup (250 mL) room-temperature unsalted butter

1½ tbsp (23 mL) dried spruce tips

2 tbsp (30 mL) honey

PREPARATION:

Heat oil in a deep fryer to 350˚F (177˚C) or on a stovetop at medium heat.

1. Cut and peel two avocados. Mash them together with 1 tbsp (15 mL) of lemon juice; cover and set aside.

2. Combine all the dry ingredients (sugar, all-purpose flour, salt and baking powder) in a medium-sized bowl and mix by hand.

3. Add the avocado mixture to the dry ingredients and mix well. Add the warm water and mix the dough until it’s all combined, being careful not to over-mix. Add more water if it’s too dry. The dough should be soft to the touch.

4. Cover the dough and let rest for 20 minutes. Add 1 tbsp (15 mL) of oil and portion the dough into six bannock pieces, being sure not to over-handle the dough.

5. Fry the bannock pieces until golden brown and cooked through, flipping as needed. Serve warm.

6. To create the spruce-tip whipped butter, grind the spruce tips in a spice grinder until fine. In an electric mixer, combine the room-temperature butter, the remaining avocado (mashed), ½ tbsp (8 mL) lemon juice, the ground spruce tips and the honey. Whip until the mixture is easy to spread and serve with the warm bannocks.

ALL ABOARD FOR CHANGE

How VIA RAIL is taking action today for a more accessible and sustainable future.

IF WE DREW UP a list of the many things to love about travelling by train, avoiding traffic jams and reclaiming time for ourselves would for sure be at the top. But what about the pleasure of admiring our provinces’ many scenic landscapes unfurl through the window, of diving into a book…or into our laptop?

VIA Rail, which operates more than 450 trains weekly and connects more than 400 communities across Canada, understands well that the journey is just as important as the destination. The carrier offers an array of perks intended to make travellers’ experiences smoother and more pleasant— including, but not limited to, free Wi-Fi (available in the Quebec City–Windsor corridor) and priority boarding for families travelling with kids.

As for VIA Rail’s business class, the carrier strives to make this an affordable luxury. Think amplified comfort, bigger seats and more amenities. A selection of Canadian wine and beer options is included, as is a meal service catering to a plethora of dietary restrictions and preferences. And the Business lounge offers a peaceful environment where business travellers can relax or catch up on work until it’s time to board their train—with priority boarding, of course.

Last fall, VIA Rail unveiled a new fleet of trains serving Ontario and Quebec, boasting an upgraded experience—with

ergonomic seats, plenty of legroom and panoramic windows among other perks—that is entirely accessible, thanks to wider alleys and automatic doors.

ON TRACK FOR SUSTAINABILITY

Travelling by train is generally one of the most environmentally friendly modes of transportation—for an intercity trip anywhere in the Quebec City-Windsor corridor, travelling in one of VIA Rail’s trains is 1.8 times more energetically efficient than driving and 3.2 times more so than flying.

For the carrier, this is only the beginning: As part of its Sustainability Plan, VIA Rail pledged to offer one of the first zero-waste travel experiences aboard its new fleet serving the corridor—a goal it aims to reach through waste reduction as well as increased reuse, recycling and organic waste collection.

This is only one of VIA Rail’s initiatives geared toward its global vision of sustainability, which is articulate around three key elements: environment-friendly practices, increased accessibility and servicing more communities. A better way to travel is here.

SPACE MAKERS

These contemporary-art exhibition venues are facilitating creative growth across Canada and beyond.

By ROBB JAMIESON

FONDERIE DARLING, MONTREAL

A not-for-profit art space, an international artist-residency program and studio facilities for local artists, Fonderie Darling was founded by French expat and curator Caroline Andrieux in 2002. Located in an Old Montreal heritage building dating back to 1889, it was named after the Darling Brothers, who built the structure for their business of forging industrial metal parts for Montreal’s then booming economy. Fonderie Darling’s unique expansive industrial setting allows artists to dream big, and thanks to its in-house woodworking, metalworking and ceramic ateliers, it has the support system to help them achieve large-scale goals. In some ways, it’s still like a working factory, with art being produced on-site by local and international residency participants. Annual open houses allow the public to tour these behind-the-scenes facilities, see work as it’s being produced and chat with the artists. “We see ourselves as a space that not only presents art and supports artists but also actively engages with our community by fostering accessibility, education and critical reflection,” says Milly A. Dery, general and artistic director. “Our goal is to make contemporary art

relevant to everyone, from art enthusiasts to first-time visitors, and our approach is one of relatability. We hope to cultivate a sense of belonging and encourage the habit of visiting cultural spaces as an essential part of daily life.” For its upcoming spring season, Fonderie Darling will feature solo exhibitions by Montreal-based artists Maggy Hamel-Metsos and Numa Amun. One thing Dery is particularly excited about this year is the space’s reimagined Place Publique—the outdoor exhibition area in front of the building—which will focus on collaboration across artistic disciplines and highlight artists whose work inspires new ways of thinking about and engaging with the world. FONDERIEDARLING.ORG

OAKVILLE GALLERIES, OAKVILLE, ONT.

Founded in 1974, Oakville Galleries has two locations— Centennial Square, in downtown Oakville, and Gairloch Gardens, a former private residence on Lake Ontario—both around 30 kilometres west of Toronto. With an amazing track record for presenting groundbreaking contemporary art, this museum is well worth the journey away from the city’s more

EXHIBITION VIEW OF IN CASCADES (2023) BY LOTUS L. KANG AT THE CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY, VANCOUVER

FONDERIE DARLING

central art scene. The Gairloch Gardens location in particular has a very experiential vibe—as some of the world’s best museums do—with its views of the lake and grounds, adding another layer to the experience. “Placing artists at the centre of its vision, Oakville Galleries strives to be a nationally and internationally leading museum for the presentation of contemporary art, delivering excellent innovative exhibitions and generating invigorating new ideas,” says executive director Séamus Kealy. Showcasing both international and Canadian artists, these spaces form a cultural hub and important institution for the community. By making art accessible, they are allowing residents to experience the very best of contemporary works. The 2025 program features ambitious projects including The Ship of Tolerance by ex-Soviet American artists Ilya and Emilia Kabakov. (Ilya passed away in 2023.) “It will involve actually constructing a ship in Gairloch Gardens, [with] the sails [made up of] 178 paintings by children,” explains Kealy. “There will be workshops, concerts and performances as well as two exhibitions by the Kabakovs in our galleries.”

ESKER FOUNDATION, CALGARY

Founded in 2012 by Calgary-based collectors and philanthropists Jim and Susan Hill, Esker Foundation has exhibited a wide range of Canadian and international contemporary art over the past 13 years. Its main exhibition space is on the fourth floor of the city’s Atlantic Avenue Arts Block, while its Project Space takes up a large street-level corner window. “As a private art foundation, Esker has a responsibility to contribute to the community by being as accessible as possible [so that] someone can visit the gallery, take a workshop or engage in a dialogue with an artist free of charge,” says director and curator Naomi Potter. Esker Foundation often gives artists the opportunity to show more work than they ever have before in one location, which helps them scale up their practice and grow as creative professionals. Being a private art foundation has allowed Esker’s creative directors to be independent in their thinking and nimble in their choices of contemporary art from across Canada and around the world. “Artists are central to community building,” says Potter. “So as an institution, how are we advocating for this? How are we creating opportunities for artists to be seen as experts and to lead conversations that value creative problem solving and storytelling?” This winter’s exhibition program, on view until April 27, presents Afghan-Canadian textile artist Hangama Amiri as well as video and collage work by Toronto-based Erika DeFreitas. ESKERFOUNDATION.COM

CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY, VANCOUVER

At over 50 years old, Vancouver’s Contemporary Art Gallery is the longest-standing independent public gallery of contemporary art in the city, and it all started in 1972 with a unique idea to pay artists to make and exhibit art as part of a federal employment program. This came from the idea that supporting productive artists in a community leads to a healthier city for all. Forty years ago, the gallery switched to an independent-public-art-gallery model but still keeps the artist central to its ethos. With a robust schedule of live events as well as educational programs for adults and children, it provides fun and learning for all ages. The facade of the building is used as an ever-changing exhibition space, with artists being commissioned to engage with its windows. “There are few spaces left in contemporary life that ask us to expand the ways we understand ourselves, one another and the world around us,” says executive director Matthew Hyland. “The art museum is one of them. Art and artists engage us with the questions that shape us as individuals, communities and cultures, inviting us to [develop] more connected, more reflective and more expansive ways of seeing.” This summer, the gallery is planning a survey of lively paintings by New Yorkbased painter Sojourner Truth Parsons, the first solo exhibition for the Vancouver-born artist. CAGVANCOUVER.ORG

INSTALLATION VIEW OF COROTOS Y AJUARES BY LUCIA HIERRO, PARTING GIFT FOR QUARANTINE BLUES BY LEONARD SURYAJAYA AND TROPICANA BY JUAN ORTIZ-APUY AT ESKER FOUNDATION

OAKVILLE GALLERIES’ GAIRLOCH GARDENS

A WORLD

of GOODNESS

Brothers Byron and Dexter Peart created a marketplace for conscious design that not only helps beautify our homes but also has a positive social impact.

By JOANNA FOX

ECOBIRDY ANUT

“I BELIEVE THAT GOOD DESIGN starts with an open mind and a high level of curiosity,” says Byron Peart. That’s the ethos behind Goodee, the online home-and-lifestyle marketplace he runs with his twin brother, Dexter. The Montreal-based entrepreneurs are no strangers to being arbiters of good taste: They founded the clothing boutique Want Les Essentiels in 2007, bringing us fashion-forward labels (including their own in-house line) with a heavy dose of quiet luxury before quiet luxury was even a thing. And although their focus has now shifted from fashion to homeware, their impeccably chic aesthetic, global-minded perspective and emphasis on timeless quality—not quantity—remains at the centre of what they do.

Goodee brings together products made by artisans around the world and emphasizes the importance of design, sustainability and the stories behind the makers. “As curious beings, we’re discovering products and artists and bringing [them] to people who might not otherwise [make] that discovery on their own,” says Byron. “We really want to activate the things that surround you—to bring joy, bring light, bring design sensibility and bring beauty.” Taking a thoughtful approach to product selection, Goodee only works with brands that embody the brothers’ collective vision of craftsmanship, enduring design and sustainable production. It’s about filling your home with meaningful objects over time—a slow approach to home decor. Basically, they’re advocating buying less but buying better.

The other core part of Goodee’s identity is its commitment to being socially conscious—caring for the artisans it works with and caring for the environment. “We didn’t want that sustainability or ethical, responsible production story [behind Goodee] to be like a secondary or tertiary story,” explains Byron. “We wanted it to be foundational. If you’re coming in here, you don’t have to be an eco warrior, but it has to be somewhere in your values that you know it’s important how things are made, why they’re made a certain way [and] that they are not disposable.”

Right now, Goodee carries more than 40 brands, and each one has a story to share. Take Baba Tree, for example, which created the unique handwoven baskets Byron and Dexter sourced in Ghana (where they recently visited). The brand prides itself on being the fairest trader in Bolgatanga, a town in the Upper East Region of the African country. It provides its many employees with competitive compensation and job opportunities while also keeping the tradition of basket

weaving alive. There’s also ANUT Cairo, which celebrates Egypt’s cultural heritage with distinct—and absolutely gorgeous—homeware. Through a series of community programs, ANUT aims to create an ecosystem for Egyptian artisans in which their livelihoods, work, creativity and culture can thrive. Mantas Ezcaray is a family-owned Spanish brand that works with local makers to create spectacular throws, textiles and scarves that are designed and manufactured almost entirely by hand. And Winnipeg-based Prairie Breeze Folk Arts Studio creates artisanal “generational brooms” that are designed to last a lifetime and will turn anyone into a clean freak—or at least a serious broom collector.

Everything Goodee does comes down to curation—“whether that’s curating brands and bringing them together, curating stories or curating physical spaces or experiences so that people can see how you can have a foundational story about impact and sustainability that’s also a design story,” says Dexter. “If people feel an emotional connection to the things they buy, then that emotion becomes the through line to why they care for it, how they care for it and how they try to bring more of those things into their lives.”

“WE REALLY WANT TO ACTIVATE THE THINGS THAT SURROUND YOU— TO BRING JOY, BRING LIGHT, BRING DESIGN SENSIBILITY AND BRING BEAUTY.”

– BYRON PEART

This spring, Goodee has big plans to open its first permanent retail store, in Montreal’s Westmount borough. (The brand has only done pop-ups in New York and L.A. in the past.) “We just hit our five-year anniversary, and I guess it’s time for us to be a little bit bolder now—like, let people touch [our products],” says Dexter. “You know, we’ve done all the tinkering and storytelling, and now we just want to invite people into the party—like, literally invite them in.”

If there’s one thing fans of Goodee can attest to, it’s that once you actually get to touch, hold and feel its products, you immediately realize how special they are and how wonderful it would be to add something with its own story and a greater meaning to your home—even if it’s just one little piece of joy and brightness at a time.

DEXTER AND BYRON PEART

CREATIVE Reinvention

FENDI ’s latest design collaboration is a beautiful—and functional—homage to the Italian house and its history.

By JOANNA FOX

AT DESIGN MIAMI 2024 this past December, Fendi unveiled its latest collection: a collaboration with London-based furniture designer Lewis Kemmenoe. Its title, ænigma, is Latin for “riddle” or “puzzle” but is also associated with the word “enigma,” which is defined as something that’s hard to understand or explain.

Kemmenoe’s designs invite the viewer into a deeper exploration of his craftsmanship. This project features a blend of organic and industrial elements and highlights his eye for beauty and precision, all while paying homage to the Fendi codes. Box joints traditionally used for construction are reimagined as design accents in the form of the brand’s signature “FF” motif. In a nod to the house’s roots, an old pattern of a jacket from the Fendi atelier is used to create a timber patchwork—a defining feature of Kemmenoe’s signature style. Meanwhile, the bark of stone pine trees, which are commonly found in Rome (where Fendi is based), finds new life cast alongside lustrous brass and aluminum.

The collection—a curated offering of two chairs, a cabinet, two wall panels, three lamps, a coffee table and a reimagined Peekaboo Soft bag—plays with dualities, balancing raw materials like wood and stone with sleek metals, the result of which is a study in contrasts and creative reinvention. “I wanted to create a body of work that feels almost like a domestic environment,” says Kemmenoe. “That was the starting point of how I began sketching stuff: Let’s do a chair, let’s do a cabinet, let’s do some kind of lighting.... And things evolved from there.”

Kemmenoe, who has a master’s in design from the Royal College of Art in London, England, took an early interest in functional objects and started producing furniture. He works with his hands and often integrates different types of wood and, more recently, metal into his pieces. For his collaboration with Fendi, his aim was a collection that is serviceable yet also inspired by fashion, which is why he was immediately drawn to the jacket pattern. He took the pattern and repeated it in different ways, like in the wall-mounted light fixtures and the wood design on the sides of the chairs. “I love this kind of duality of sitting between the gallery context, like a functional piece of artwork, and the domestic context, where it becomes part of someone’s lived experience and an object that people live with,” he says. “And I think it’s important for me to be aware that a lot of stuff I’m making has another life after it leaves the workshop.”

Fendi has been showing collections at Design Miami that were created in collaboration with up-and-coming designers from around the world since 2008, and the Italian brand always gives them full creative control while also generously providing access to its resources. “We give total freedom,” says Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories and menswear. “[The designer of] every project is free to use the Fendi history, the Fendi references and our artisans if [they are] needed. So from the very beginning, that’s the base of the collaboration. Not all designers need or find inspiration in something related

to the family, but I was fascinated by [Kemmenoe’s] approach. He was really interested in the process of making things and inspired by unfinished products, like small accessories that become a joint of an opening or closing or paper patterns. From that point of view, I think he was really interested in our artisanal skills.”

As for Kemmenoe, the idea of working with such a famous fashion family was a bit daunting. “It’s kind of crazy in the sense that they just let me do whatever I wanted, which was a bit disconcerting,” he says with a laugh. “It’s amazing because there’s a lot of trust. You want to feel happy with [the collection], but you’re also aware that you’re working alongside a heritage brand that has serious intentions. So it’s pressure, but it’s good pressure.”

Evidently, Kemmenoe works well under pressure—Venturini Fendi confessed that she would like to have one of the pieces for her home. “I really love the golden armchair and would love to have it in my apartment,” she says. “I like it because it’s a block, it has even geometry and it’s quite monumental. The pattern makes me think of all those ladies who are at home [in Italy] in our laboratories and in our affiliate working [spaces], so it brings me nice memories. I see myself [sitting there] writing or doing needlepoint, so it [has] the perfect function [for me].”

Venturini Fendi was also in Miami to celebrate the reopening of the brand’s newly renovated and expanded boutique in the city’s chic Design District, a creative neighbourhood and

shopping destination dedicated to innovative fashion, design, art, architecture and dining. “It’s amazing what happened in a few years in the Design District,” she says of the recent revitalization of the now-high-end commercial area. “I can’t believe how fast everything [changed]—it’s a transformation.”

Creating a link to the brand’s Design Miami collaboration, on display at the store opening were some of Kemmenoe’s creations, including his reimagined Peekaboo Soft bag—a standout made of different leather pieces cut using that same jacket pattern and then patchworked. Its hardware also connects it to the rest of the ænigma pieces: The same timber used throughout the collection forms the internal separator, while silver and brass screws reflect the two prominent metals used in the furniture. Staying true to the nature of the iconic bag, a hidden wooden texture is exposed upon opening it.

The space itself, which sprawls over more than 620 square metres on two luxurious levels, showcases both women’s and men’s leather goods, accessories and ready-to-wear collections. Offering nods to both the brand and the city, the store’s facade features four grand Roman arches (honouring Fendi’s roots) and custom-made three-dimensional glass bricks in three different shapes and depths that recall the effect of an ocean wave (in homage to Miami). The newly imagined boutique is a celebration of the Fendi codes in a dazzling atmosphere that recalls Miami’s rich history and vibrant energy.

Pieces from designer Lewis Kemmenoe’s collaboration with Fendi, ænigma

Earthly Delights

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TAURUS

APRIL 20 – MAY 20

A new sense of purpose is knocking at your door. Through community care, you can nurture this spark and possibly experience a change of heart. Like a much-needed homecoming, your roots and sacred spaces are being revived. If you adjust your structures and boundaries at home, some of your closest connections could blossom again.

GEMINI

MAY 21 – JUNE 20

Small victories in your professional world are on the horizon. New career opportunities are unfolding, bringing fresh possibilities all month long. Some conversations—teetering between flirting and debating—could spice up your social outings. As you review all proposals, take a moment to reflect on the legacy you want to leave for future generations.

CANCER

JUNE 21 – JULY 22

Does your heart need a vacation? A change of scenery is calling, even if it’s just a neighbourhood away. This break could work wonders for your energy. If relationship dynamics have been weighing on you lately, it’s time to shift focus to your resources. How can having more awareness help you build your prosperity?

LEO

JULY 23 – AUGUST 22

Your psyche is activated, triggering questions and repercussions through wounds that are still healing. This introspective shadow work could bring more clarity, albeit wrapped in a deeper rage. As you embrace this challenging moment, your confidence and poise will soar. Stay open, and listen closely to your intuition’s whisper.

VIRGO

AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22

Your partnerships and relationships are flourishing like growing vines. Collaborations or legal matters could bubble up, but wait until mid-month to fully commit. Old stories from your subconscious maze may be calling for reconciliation. As you consider others without forgetting your own needs, your relationships will grow.

ARIES

MARCH 21 – APRIL 19

Past decisions might be wiggling around in your mind. With spiritual or therapeutic help, you can find the words to express repressed emotions. Your connection to nature could support this process throughout the month. It’s time to reassess your beliefs and build new foundations for your assertiveness.

By MIMO MAGRI

LIBRA

SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22

CAPRICORN

DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19

Honour rest and all your body’s needs at the beginning of the month. By tuning in to yourself, you’ll find guidance and insights that could inspire new health habits. Are you thinking of changing your diet or lifestyle? While your attention is on your relationships right now, karmic support is helping you regain a sense of well-being.

SCORPIO

OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21

Does art therapy speak to you? Your month is filled with a profound desire to create. Are your ambitions reflecting this passion? How can you innovate while giving back to the planet? As you evaluate your professional motivations, you’re also refining your intentions. Maybe you can align them with memorable experiences.

SAGITTARIUS

NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21

Your personal space might benefit from a fresh coat of newness via some nurturing and adjustments this month. As you filter out what anchors you at home, a desire to explore the unknown may arise, potentially leading to more mental and physical freedom. Be mindful of your carbon footprint as you set sail for new horizons.

Catalytic conversations and streams of consciousness are weaving through your month. Your mind could be buzzing from learning new communication tools or reconnecting with others. Themes from last November may resurface as the chatter takes over. Manifest your growth by putting your thoughts on paper.

AQUARIUS

JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18

A favourable breakthrough is coming to your finance realm. You’re wealthier than you think, and your self-esteem could reap the benefits too. Passion, confrontation and a bit of friendly competition seem to be seeping into your relationships. If you’ve lacked discipline lately, don’t worry—the end of the month brings clarity to boost your prosperity and plant seeds of self-worth.

PISCES

FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20

You’re nearing the completion of a deep identity transformation. How are you articulating your boundaries now? What personal labels need updating? Your mind is clearing, and your body may experience it as a positive shift. Could this be a return to a healthier lifestyle? Your core values and personal power are strengthening all month.

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TAKE FLIGHT

BRITISH DESIGNER STELLA MCCARTNEY’S BIRD-THEMED “Save What You Love” spring/summer 2025 runway show at the Saxe-Breteuil market in Paris featured a bold manifesto. Narrated by Dame Helen Mirren and inspired by author (and birdwatcher) Jonathan Franzen’s book of essays The End of the End of the Earth, the show reminds us that “a world where there are only planes in the sky and no song in the trees will never make the heart soar.” The collection, both a celebration of and a call to action for birds, was crafted without harming a single creature.

Since day one, McCartney has been extremely environmentally conscious and is the rare luxury designer who regularly experiments with innovative eco-friendly materials, including lead-free crystals, organic-silk chiffons, knits made from regenerated plastic bottles and caps and leather alternatives made from apples, sugar-cane waste and fungi.

Given the theme, it was only fitting that the collection prominently feature striking bird-shaped gold and silver jewellery. The eye-catching pieces were made in collaboration with 886 Royal Mint—a luxury lifestyle brand that celebrates the value of precious metal and champions traditional British craftsmanship—using repurposed electronic and medical waste.

A team of five—four expert jewellers and a re-skilled former coin maker—spent over 600 hours creating more than 100 pieces, ranging from jewellery to garment clasps, using traditional handcrafting skills. The pieces were constructed at The Royal Mint’s headquarters in Llantrisant, South Wales—facilities that can process 70 tonnes of electronic waste per week and extract high-quality gold using a worldfirst patented process. The silver used was pulled from old X-ray films from British and Irish hospitals that would otherwise be stored or sent to landfill. The meticulously hand-carved birds are a hopeful reminder of the potential for innovation and circularity in fashion.