Kenn Clarke + Iva BrajdicĚ
Ogulin was originally called Julija’s town, and appears as such on the first geographical ´ in 1673. map of Croatia, made by the Jesuit cartographer Stjepan Glavac When exactly Julija’s town became Ogulin is uncertain, and the reason it did so even more obscure. One suggestion refers to the ‘bare area’ (“ogolio” in Croatian) which was left after the forest surrounding the town was cleared in order to improve it’s defences. Another relates to the many lime-trees along the road between Ogulin and Oštarije. People used to peel the bark in order to get bass; the verb to peel, ("guliti" in Croatian).
Ogulin’s city coat of arms is constructed from The Frankopan Star, (taken from The Frankopan coat of arms before their adopting the name Frankopan in 1430). the Latin Cross (The Church of the Exhaultation of the Holy Cross), and two silver bars representing the two rivers; Dobra and Zagorska Mrežnica.
here is always noise in a city. A colourful residue of life merged into grey cacophony which once accustomed to is referred to as silence. Ogulin is not a city and the silence here is different. It is singular and complete. At first it whistles, then the whistling subsides leaving silence to be broken once more: This time by complete sound; perhaps of a bird rustling beneath leaves, or a breeze singing through chandelier crowns of chestnut trees, or animals scurrying back and forth in the undergrowth, or of apples falling to the ground. When a cockrel doodle-doos, its cry begins, middles and ends uninterupted and singular, as if there is time for it to exist without overlap with another. Then, as a neighbouring cockrel replies, the ritual of cockrel conversation completes. With this new rythym comes too a richer palette of colour. Nuance subtlely differentiates as myriads of green unfold: crisp shades that few painters capture without making everything flat, but when successful, transports you into their universe. This is Ogulin, where fragmented impressions of urban life are replaced by profound magic.
is a town situated in the bulls eye of mainland Croatia in a valley formed by the two rivers, Dobra and Zagorska Mrežnica between Zagreb and Rijeka. Ogulin’s administrative constitution covers an area of 543.32 km2, and has about 15,000 inhabitants according to the 2001 census. Ogulin is a micro-region neighbouring the larger regions of Gorski Kotar, Lika, Kordun and Gornje Pokuplje. The first historical mention of Ogulin was in a document issued by Bernardin Frankopan in his town of Modruš around 1500 A.D. and is the first historical mention of Ogulin. Ogulin is known for the legend of Đula who threw herself into the abyss of the River Dobra because of an unhappy love affair. In the 16th century, it became a military stronghold against the Ottomans. Ogulin is an integral part of the County of Karlovac. The economic development of Ogulin is based on forestry and timber processing, agriculture, and tourism. The Zagreb-Split highway (A1, A6, E59, E65, E71) connecting central Europe with countries along the Danube basin and the Adriatic Sea, is only two kilometres from the centre of Ogulin. Ogulin is also an important junction on the Zagreb, Rijeka and Split railway line.
From 1193 – 1553 Modruš and the surrounding estate, including Tržan Castle above the settlement, was the main seat of the noble Frankopan family. Increasing exposure to Ottoman raids from already defeated Bosnia during the latter half of the 15th century, urged Bernardin Frankopan to build a castle in Ogulin some kilometres to the north, considering it a safer and more pleasent place to live. Around 1500 he left Tržan Castle and moved to Ogulin where he lived out the remainder of his life. Modruš thereafter lost its administrative and military importance and fell into decay.
BERNARDIN
The Frankopan Castle was built during the renaissance period above the gorge of the River Dobra, Đula's abyss, by Ogulin’s founder Bernardin Frankopan. The town walls surround the courtyard on three sides, while on the fourth there is a three-storey building flanked by towers. Today, the castle houses The County Museum which opened in 1967. Several collections are on display. Exhibitions include archaeological, ethnological, old armaments, the memorial room ’ ’ and accounts of of Ivana Brlic-Mažuranic, mountaineering history in photographs and artefacts. Paintings by Ogulin born ’ decorate the walls. Stjepan Galetic During the summer months, local and international cultural events are staged in the courtyard. Josip Broz Tito was incarcerated here in 1933 convicted of communist activity.
FRANKOPAN
Ðula ' s Beneath the castle you will find one of three entrances to the Medvedica cave system – Đula’s Abyss. Đula, (Julija, hence Julija’s Town), relates to the 16th century legend of Đula, a young girl of prominent birth, who was customarily promised in marriage to an elderly nobleman. ’ arrived in Ogulin When the young captain, Milan Juraic, from the border lands to defend the Frankopan fort at Tounj against the Ottoman Turks, Đula fell madly in love with him.
Abyss Milan was killed in battle, and when Ä?ula heard this she threw herself into the chasm of the River Dobra. If one visits the observation post above, and allows the eye to roam the rocks above the chasm, the profile of a man looking down into its depths will become visible. This is Milan gazing to where his beloved Ä?ula disappeared.
The River Dobra is 104 kilometres long with a basin covering an area of 900 square kilometres.
for the hydroelectric power ’ plants of Gojak and Lešce. Finally it joins the River Kupa north of Karlovac.
Home to grayling, trout, chub and pomfret, Dobra rises in Gorski Kotar near Skrad and Ravna Gora and from there it serpentines north, then east past Vrbovsko, and on into Ogulin. Disappearing beneath the Frankopan castle at Dula’s Abyss it then flows through the Medvedica cave system resurfacing north of the town.
Its name is the feminine form of the Croatian adjective meaning “good” but it probably has its name from the Celtic dubrum, dubron meaning ‘water’, Illyrian dybris meaning ‘deep’ or Old Slavonic Dubri / debra also meaning ‘deep’ or ‘valley’.
It has been dammed twice cre’ ating Lakes Bukovnik and Lešce
The Dobra waters are unstable and can rise to the rim of the gorge in the centre of Ogulin within a matter of hours, sometimes flooding parts of the town.
The Dobra is famous for its small waterfalls, and it is no wonder that many industries were fuelled by river flow. If you go to Sveti Petar, cross over the bridge and turn right along the river bank you will arrive at this old mill and waterfall. There is an area where you can sit and picnic or just meditate to the sound of working water – or better yet, cool off during the summer months with a refreshing swim.
Lake Bukovnik is an artificial lake located on the Dobra River about two kilometres north of the town centre, and one of the accumulation lakes for the Gojak hydro-electric plant. Besides the advantages of harnessing power to fuel community needs the project has resulted in peaceful habitat for wild life and an oasis for nature lovers. Fishing is allowed here all year round. After passing through the Bukovnik Dam the Dobra continues through the town centre and on to Ä?ula’s Abyss where it cascades into the Medvedica cave system.
Zagorska Mrežnica
Ogulin has since ancient times received its drinking water from the Mrežnica Spring at Ogulinsko Zagorje. It is here the Mrežnica River begins its 63 kilometre journey through Slubj, Generalski Stol and Duga Resa to Karlovac where it merges with the Korana. Its basin covers an area of 64 km2. Considered special due to its 93 waterfalls the Mrežnica collects just outside Ogulin in Sabljaci Lake, and from there its waters are channelled through a tunnel to Lake Bukovic where it then feeds the Gojak Hydroelectric Power Plant; a high pressure diversion plant which harnesses the river power of both the Dobra and Mrežnica rivers.
Sabljaci Lake is a reservoir created from the flow of the Zagorska Mrežnica and is often referred to as “The Sea of Ogulin“ due to it’s size and resemblance to a sea bay. A recreational lake, it’s beauty is appreciated by all segments of society. Fishing, swimming, wind surfing and boating are popular sports all year round, and photographic opportunities abound whilst walking or cycling it’s perimiter. White swans and clouds of black coot find refuge her during the winter, with some deciding to stay for the annual summer regatta.
Market Day is Wednesday in Ogulin and probably the busiest day of the week. Overflow from the market precinct into neighbouring streets, lanes and backways, reaches as far down as the railway viaduct, then circles back to link up once more with the precinct. Pretty much anything and everything you expect to find is found in this weekly hub of activity. All things fresh and local; such as dairy products, seasonal ware, meat, fruit and vegetables compete in colour and aroma from their stalls, kiosks and open back vans. A unique buzz accompanies market day: an atmosphere where ritual repitition encourages communal continuity, creating a recognizable comfort all of its own.
At the easternmost of the Velika Kapela range of the Dinaric Alps, Klek, at 1182 metres is a most famous Croatian mountain. Dominating the sky-line, Klek back-drops the town of Ogulin, universally recognized as the cradle of Croatian alpinism and mountaineering.
Home to mammals and birds similar to those found throughout all of Gorski Kotar, Klek is enriched by the presence of brown bear, wolf, lynx, deer, several species of bat, and dormice. Birds of prey such as the golden eagle, peregrine falcon, and honey buzzard soar elegantly above, while rare species of butterfly flutter in the alpine meadows below. Due to its bio-diverse landscape, botanist mountaineers have frequented Klek for centuries, the most well-known being the French naturalist and explorer Baltasar Hacquet who already in 1782 noted the extensive variety of rare plants found here. With interest in nature and sport flourishing a century later, Klek became increasingly more popular as a travel destination. When in 1874, Dr. Johannes Frischauf; exhilerated by having reached the summit, met with writers Bude Budisavljevic, and Vladimir Mažuranic, the establishment of
the Croatian Mountaineering Association was proposed, which later became the 9th National Mountaineering Association in the world. It is the sleeping giant’s profile of Klek which continues to decorate its logo today. It is no surprise that a mountain such as Klek became synonomous with local identity, and has over time become entwined in legend and folklore, serving also as inspiration for artistic endevour, the most famous being that of the internationally acclaimed fairy tale author Ivana Brlic Mažuranic. But most of all Klek is a friendly mountain; human in mood dictated to him by season and weather. One never tires of contemplating him, or is able to resist stealing a glance in his direction; if for no other reason than to see what he is wearing today. Ogulin without Klek would simply not be Ogulin!
The strange and offensive shapes of Klek and the romance of the Dobra provided my imagination with so much food that far into the night I rolled in my thoughts the most strangest of pictures and fantastic possibilities: which is all played out in the deep night around Klek. Ivana Brlic Mažuranic.
Ajvar
Ajvar spreads well on toast and makes for delicious tapas. It is the Ogulin relish to accompany all meat, vegetable and fish dishes, and the perfect dip for party and stay at home snacks. It is easy to make, and extremely tasty. Ingredients 5-6 red peppers 1 aubergine 3 cloves garlic ½ cup roughly chopped chives juice from ½ lime salt a pinch of sugar Recipe Preheat the oven to 220°C. Cut the peppers and aubergine in halves, remove the seeds and place face down on a baking tray. Brush with olive oil and bake on the top shelf for about 30 minutes until they are blackened. Remove from the oven and cool for about 5 minutes, then remove the skins. Chop into a rustic mash and add to the chopped garlic and chives. Squeeze the lime juice into the mix and season with salt and sugar. Additions to this basic recipe are many and varied. Roasted pine nuts, basil, parmesan, anchovy and sun dried tomatoes are among my favourites. And if you prefer to spice it up a bit, add a few, then a few more, fresh chillies to the mix. Tastes best when served warm.
Photography -Ivan Turković
M
AGDIC
Photography -Ivan Turković
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VA art&design ATELIER is a place where fashion design embraces visual art Each piece begins as a blank canvas & only when it has broken the rules does it mature through a process of unconventional construction Iva Magdic*s designs are realised using a variety of techniques & fabric treatment + innovative methods of sewing & stitching Together new textures are achieved creating the perfect garment just for you
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Iva's collections are born out of everyday occurrence people & place Inspiration becomes philosophy as a new collection gains momentum Fragmented ideas still wet on the canvas spin into being accessories statements textures & imagery Her process is multi-facetted its elements sometimes direct & at others colliding where they splinter free into new beginnings
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Uniquely conceived her timeless creations howl to be worn at any & every time Feel her creation break some rules & enjoy
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Photography -Iva Magdic
IVA art&design ATELIER ` email: info@iva-art-design.com www.iva-art-design.com www.facebook.com/IVAartdesign
HASHTAG.yourself #yourself - a fashion-art collection presented at the HUiU Gallery in Pula (22.03.2018 - 12.04.2018). HASHTAG. yourself - as a need, as a warning, as a provocation or as a stunt? # The collection is presented statically as an exhibition where visitors / observers become dynamically interactive with the exposed items of clothing, photos and details. # The idea is #yourself - a call to remove oneself from the binary world we are surrounded by and into the real 3D world - which is achieved by simply arriving at the exhibition and socializing. # The exposed photographs are processed on the principle of stereoscopy - adding 'shadows', to which they are a seamless red or blue and green channels of RGB composite to achieve a 3D effect with two-dimensional photography. This can only be seen by using compatible 3D glasses. # Clothes came at the end, as a materialized response to the concept. ... leave the binary system and join the real world ...
Photography -Iva Magdic
* ORIGINAL by IVA art & design ATELIER
Photography -Ivan Turković
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Photography -Ivan Turković
f l e s r you
Steep 50 green walnuts in 2 litres of rakija. Add 1.5 kilos of sugar, the zest from a lemon and an orange, 10 coffee beans & some vanilla for about 4 - 5 weeks in the sun. Stir occasionally. Strain the black nectar. Bottle. & Enjoy.
a story of dragons and giants for the very young and the very young at heart http://kennclarke.wix.com/clarke
Written and illustrated by Kenn Clarke
Make a wish on your paper lantern as it flies the Advent sky. Local celebrations include a nativity scene, folk music, market stalls filled with seasonal decorations and sweetmeats: All enjoyed with mulled wine, warm in hand, amidst the bustle of Christmas spirit and blessings.
If you re going to Ogulin
get me a cabbage 
Through generations of cultivation, climate and geography, the indiginous Ogulin cabbage has acquired particular characteristics. Further development through recent years has now produced a cabbage shape optimal for packaging whole sauerkraut heads, and at the same time maintaining and perfecting their quality. Their development and selection is made by the Department of Vegetable Crops at the Faculty of Agriculture in Zagreb and the project has been co-financed by the town of Ogulin. Market produced for the past sixty years, several local companies are currently involved in its processing and packaging. Today the Ogulin cabbage is the most famous product in the Ogulin area, and is expected to become its first protected indigenous crop. Perhaps this is why Ogulin saurkraut is well-known throughout the world for its unique flavour and aroma.
Pork rolled in Cabbage is a rustic winter delicacy Pig keeping is not uncommon in Ogulin, and occasionally it is slaughter that breaks the silence.
In many places where tradition has been dilluted to unrecognisable suggestion; considered either too time consuming, or old hat, 'kitchen time' is now making a fashionable comeback, and together with almost forgotten recipes for syrups, jams, relishes and extracts, lifestyle publications clamber along side media chefs to claim grandma’s recipies as their own. Once again there is cool prestige in home reared, home grown and home made. Here is a guideline recipe for something cheap, easy and delicious. Catch and butcher the pig, (or hunt the boar), then finely dice the meat. Add chopped fennel, onion and garlic, almonds, apple and prunes, then flavour with your favourite spices and herbs. Dig up, wash, and select the largest cabbage leaves then blanch for a few seconds to soften. Remove the thickest part of the stalk, place a spoonfull of pork mixture on the leaf and roll tucking in the ends. Braise or steam in a dish for 10 minutes at 170°C. Here served with kaťa and beetroot.
Homeland of
Fairy Ttales
Ivana Brlić Mažuranić Born in Ogulin 18th April 1874 into the well-known Croatian family of Mažuranic, Ivana’s childhood was spent immersed in the mysterious mountain landscape. Of it she said: “My first powerful impressions which I can remember came from Ogulin”.
In 1916 With 'Croatian Tales of Long Ago', she earned comparison to JRR Tolkien and Hans Christian Andersen. Like them she based completely new stories on elements of traditional mythology and folklore. In Ivana’s case it was Croatian.
It was while still a child that she began to write poetry, diaries and essays.
’ was nominated for ’ Ivana Brlic-Mažuranic the Nobel Prize in Literature four times – in 1931 and 1935 by the historian Gabriel ’ and in 1937 and 1938 he was Manojlovic, joined by the philosopher Albert Bazala. In 1937 she became the first woman accepted as a Corresponding Member into the Yugoslav Academy of Sciences and Arts.
At the beginning of the 20th century her first story, 'The Good and the Mischievous' was published, but it was first in 1913 when 'The Marvelous Adventures ’ the Apprenand Misadventures of Hlapic tice' was published – a story about the ’ accidentally findpoor apprentice Hlapic ing his master’s lost daughter as his luck turns to the better – that the literary public began to take notice.
After a long battle with depression, she committed suicide on 21 September 1938 in Zagreb.
In 1997, the Croatia Film company adapted 'The Marvellous Adventures and Mis’ the Apprentice' as adventures of Hlapic a children’s animated feature, 'Lapitch the Little Shoemaker'. It became Croatia’s most successful theatrical release, and its official submission to the 70th Academy Awards in the Best Foreign Language Film category. In 2000, an interactive animated project based on 'Croatian Tales of Long Ago' took off. The project, consisting of animated interactive stories, cartoons and games was created in Flash by international teams of animators, illustrators, musicians, programmers, actors etc.; all coordinated on the internet. This unique project won several awards at the most famous of international festivals of new media and animation, including Flashforward San Francisco, Lucca Comics and Games multimedia award, and International Family Film Festival in Hollywood. A series of educational iPhone / iPad games based on the project have also been developed. In Ogulin her legacy is omnipresent. Sculptures are dotted about the town sharing snippets of her life and high-lighting statements she made. Her bust faces into the town centre; streets and schools are named after her. But it is perhaps the recently opened fairy tale museum which also bears her name that epitomizes the fondness and esteem with which she is held in Ogulin.
Lots of FUN some more FUN and then some Ivana's Fairytale House in the Frankopan Castle grounds, is an interactive multimedia playground for children and childish souls, teethed on, or with a sweet tooth for digital technology. Established in 2013 and named after Croatia’s most famous children’s writer Ivana ’ the museum celebrates ’ Brlic-Mažuranic, her writing, and the use of fairy tales to inspire and nurture a love of reading, knowledge and creative expression.
Also on offer is a most rare and precious opportunity to talk to trees from an enchanted forest, to meet the magic mirror, and to sit by the animated flicker of fireside while listening to all things 'once upon a time'. A wide variety of creative and innovative workshops, designed to stir and stimulate the imagination, are held upstairs.
Ivana’s website, www.ivaninakucabajke.hr includes a virtual Fairy Tale Database and an on-line library. The centre also carries out publishing activities and organises creative and educational programmes for both children and adults. Held throughout the year, the programmes include storytelling, literary and visual expression, film, performance, fine art, and design.
Deeper meaning resides in the fairy tales told to me in my childhood than the truth that is taught by life. Friedrich Schiller 1759 – 1805
Oh yes, and you are allowed to bring your pet along, and to take your own photographs aswell. Don’t forget to come to Ogulin's Festival of Fairy Tales in June. It is a must to do, and you will love it.
Makes 4 liters 40 elderflower fans 3 lemons 50 gr. citric acid 3 kg. sugar 2 litre water Peel the lemons with a thin peeler. Remove the white which gives a bitter taste, and use the zest and lemon meat. Wash the fans and place in a large pot with zest, lemon and citric acid. Boil the water with sugar for a few minutes. Skim and pour over the above. Allow to infuse for 2 - 3 days stiring regularly. Sieve the cordial through gauze and bottle in sterilised bottles or freeze in small portions. Add vanilla, ginger, lime, liquorice, or pretty much anything that takes your fancy.
& pancakes Elderflower pancakes.
Dip an elderflower fan into your Mum's best pancake recipe. Then place onto a hot sauté pan – fry and toss until cooked – fold onto a plate. Squeeze and drench with orange, lemon or lime, or cover with strawberries steeped in elderflower cordial. If you think adding something else will taste good, it probably will.
Picnic at In the Ogulin village of Markovic there are garden allotments where market garden hobbyists spend their summers, hands in the earth, growing all things green. A small stream trickles down to and beyond the fields, parallel to a small trail leading up and down the mountain-side. If you walk up the trail for a few minutes, criss-cross a couple of rustically put
together bridges you will arrive at a fire place marked with a circle of stones, a permanent gazebo and somewhere wedged in its roof you will find a grill wire. There is also a small pile of sticks to get the fire going, and so facilitate the bar-b-que course of your picnic. The song of water flowing down-stream is constant, like a heavy but peacefull rain.
If you're lucky this will be in contrast to sunny flickers of light bouncing from the the surface of the water. Every few minutes someone, or two, will appear, disappear down the bank of the stream and reappear with their plastic bottle filled with water. There, clear cool water flows from the mountain, as if from nowhere, and I am told it is cleaner than any you will find bot-
tled, branded, and sold at lifestyle prices in supermarkets. A lady who came by to say hello tells us that although not strictly a secret, not all Ogulins know of it, and that she, only after acquiring an allotment nearby, learned of it's existance; and she has lived in Ogulin all of her life. Ogulins are matter of fact about its presence, but it is a magical discovery, something unique; and even more so because it is still free and publicly accessible.
King
Tomislav Park King Tomislav Park comprises patterned lawns and flower beds, encircled by a perimiter of chestnut chandeliers. It marks the centre from where all else in Ogulin has grown. King Tomislav’s monument, erected in 1925, celebrates the millenial anniversary of the founding of the Croatian kingdom. Croatia’s first monarch welcomes visitors into his park from the eastern side.
The park was designed in the 18th century, with a path plan based on a cross, and then elaborated to fascilitate movement through the town center. Many of Ogulin’s gems and corner stones are also showcased here. A childrens play area occupies one corner of the park, and the benches sprinkled throughout are sitting invitations to enjoy the now of life as it arrives and strolls by.
God
is most tangible through the nature in which Ogulin resides.
The religious community in Ogulin is comprised mostly of christian roman catholic. Its most accessible church is The Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, built in 1781 and situated in King Tomislav Park in the centre of town. Doors are open most days and pamphlets advertising services and meeting times are available inside.
Where there are fairies, there is fairy water – and fairy water flows from the Cesarovac Spring The Cesarovac Spring occupies a corner of its own in the park. It is reminiscent of the first aquaducts built in Ogulin in 1847, and has since enjoyed renovation, updates, and re-design. Its original wooden pipes have been replaced twice, first with clay, and then again in 1882 with iron. In 2004 new taps were installed and iron border fencing added. According to some, its dome contains the names of officers of the former Krajina military border garrisons, and it is said that the Cesarovac Spring has witnessed the most private of moments between friends and lovers. Or perhaps it is because its waters still flow from Turkovic below Juniper in the foothills of Klek, and that where there is Klek, you will always find magic. Beautiful winged mountain fairies accompany the water to the Spring. They are good and helpful, and they ensure that the fairy water is put to good use. If a girl drinks the Cesarovac waters, she will become even more beautiful and remain forever young. And if a man drinks from the spring, he will marry an Ogulin girl. Whether true or only a bit true, one cannot help but notice how popular Cesarovac is as a meeting place for young people.
Frankopan Summer Nights
Performing here the celebrated dance group “Do Lusco O Fusco� from Spain.
Beginning 25 June and lasting for a month, Ogulin plays host to Frankopan Summer Nights; a cultural festival celebrating local and international talent. A series of events at various locations throughout the town provide summer entertainment for Ogulin and its region. Art exhibitions provide colourful backdrops for performances at established venues while ad hoc stages sprout up, in among other spaces, King Tomislav Park to ensure the overflow of dance troupes and orchestras are catered for. The summer scene in the Frankopan Castle courtyard is a favourite for many international performers, theatre troupes and audiences alike.
Ana Carla Maza entertains at the Frankopan Summer Nights Festival 2015.
Opportunity to purchase art and traditional aswell as contemporary craft, such as rugs, patchwork, lace, plum brandy and witchwork, enhances the experience amidst delicious aromas of local Ogulin cuisine. Spiced delicacies such as venison roasted old style will linger in memory long after eaten.
After the second world war Yugoslavia found itself in need of a reliable, economical and easily maintainable means of transport. Robust motorcycles suitable for gravel roads and mountainous terrain, characteristic of the region were key demands. The solution was found through a collaboration between the Yugoslav government and the Austrian company Puch. The company TOMOS was formed, an acronym for TOvarna MOtornih koles SeĹžana; Slovenian for Motorcycle Company SeĹžana. In October of 1954, the Yugoslav government began to build the TOMOS factory in Koper. Production began in 1955 in temporary facilities until the factory was completed which was officially opened in 1959 by Josip Broz-Tito. For the next twenty years Tomos motorcycles, mopeds and scooters, based on Puch designs, were produced under license. Then in 1973, TOMAS began to design for themselves, producing the 'Automatic A1' with an improved single gear engine built into the framework structure. This was the beginning of a new generation of machines visually different from those designed by Puch. Parallel to the Tomos motorcycle success story, which continues to the present day, a following has evolved around these efficient and elegant vehicles, cementing their cultural place in Balkan history, and pursued by new generations of ex-Yugoslavs. In Ogulin, enthusiasts share in their passion for keeping the classic TOMAS alive through both renovation and customisation. Big boys' toys they may be, but envious are those of us who gather to admire them as they proudly congregate in town during the green months; the attention they generate but a purring prelude to their excursion through the mountains and villages of Gorski Kotar on their way to the coast. Motorcycle enthusiasts customarily form clubs, but in Ogulin a subtle recognition exchanged between TOMAS enthusiasts as they pass one another on the road is enough to acknowledge 'membership' of their shared passion. The best season for TOMAS watching is between spring and late summer, because at other times of the year they are at home in the safety of their garages where they are pampered and prepared for next year's fair weather parade. .
Ema PukĹĄec was born in Ogulin in 1834. A coloratura soprano with a range of three octaves, her career as Ilma de Murska began in 1862 in Florence, Italy, as Lady Harriet in Friedrich von Flotow's Martha. Her tour of Europe included performances in Budapest, Spain and Italy. After a string of successes she went to Vienna in 1864 where she sang in Verdi's Il Trovatore. She left in 1873 playing Ophelia in a farewell performance at the Vienna Court Opera. After playing Queen of the Night in Mozart's The Magic Flute she became affectionately known as The Croatian Nightinggale. De Murska also appeared in London during this time. Her appearance as Queen of the Night in 1865 was so successful, that George Bernard Shaw observed, in the famous fioriturae of this role, she sang 'to chime with a delicate ring and inimitable precision of touch'. Post 1873, she performed in Hamburg, Berlin and Paris. She toured the U. S., Russia, Australia and New Zealand, and for a time lectured at the music conservatory in New York City. Noted for her hypersensitivity, and the large menagerie of animals which accompanied her everywhere; an immense Newfoundland dog called Pluto, two parrots, an Angora cat and a monkey; (monkey and cat tormented each other incessantly, while the parrots flew free-style in the first class hotels they guested), the diva happily accepted the expenses which ensued. She died in Munich in 1889, aged 54.
They dined on mince, and slices of quince, which they ate with a runcible spoon
Quince has always been a mysterious fruit for me. Although quintessentially english I spent my childhood thinking they must be very rare and quite posh. I had never seen one and would not have heard of them had it not been for 'The Owl And The Pussy Cat'. It was in Ogulin that I actually first came across one. And so what do you do with a tree heavy with quince?
Well anything made with this attractive knobbly character tastes delicious. This tough autumn fruit with the teasingly sweet exotic fragrance of floral vanilla, pinapple, then pear contains enormous amount of pectin making it perfect for jam and jelly making, but once you begin to experiment you will find it hard to see a dish where it might not be of service.
Membrillo Ingredients: 1.6 k. quince, washed, peeled, cored, and roughly chopped 750 g. sugar Juice of 1 lemon Place quince in a large pot, and cover with water by 2.3 cm. Bring to boil then simmer until quince is tender, about 25 minutes.
Quince Jam Ingredients: 6 rinsed, cored and grated quince, (leave peel on) 1 liter water 60 ml. lemon juice 1 tbsp. lemon zest 1 k. sugar Bring water to boil in a thick bottomed saucepan. Add the grated quince, lemon juice and lemon zest. Simmer for about 10 minutes until the quince is soft. Add the sugar and bring to boil again. Stir in the sugar until dissolved. Lower the heat and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally until the jam turns pink and thickens – about 30-50 minutes. Ladle into sterilized jars and seal. Quince mixes well with other fruits especially sour cherry or plum.
Strain, reserving 200 ml. liquid. Return to pot with sugar, and lemon juice. Boil over medium heat, stirring frequently, until reduced and very thick, about 2 ½ to 3 hours. Add more lemon to taste. The color will be rich raspberry. As a basis paste this can enrich sauces and stews, flavour unique ice creams and sherbets, be at the core of chutneys and cold relishes or simply slice and serve with cheese.
Ratafia is an old-fashioned name for fruit steeped in wine or spirits. Grate 5 or 6 ripe quince and place in a jar. Add sugar to about a third of the way up. Cover with preferred alchohol, seal and put away for at least 3 to 4 weeks. (The taste mellows and becomes more subtle the longer it is left). Strain and serve chilled.
Poaching quince is an easy and decorative accompaniment for ice cream or to bake into tarts. Bakes well with apple and pear. Quince jelly tastes great with fruit salad, cheese and cold cuts.
photographer
iva ‚ brajdic
Croatia has also a subterrænean landscape of caves, and the 16,396 m long Đula Medvedica system is the largest of them all. Its entrances at Đula, Medvedica, and Badanj have been known since ancient times, but it was first between ˇ 1984 and 1987 that detailed studies organized by Marijan Cepelak and the Speleological Section of the Mountaineering Society Velebit were carried out leading to the realization that an extremely rare biodiversity existed beneath the town, in urgent need of further research and conservation. More than 100 subterranean species are now registered, 30 of which are endemic such as the most famous of all subterranean animals, the olm (Proteus anguinus). Other endangered life forms include the unique Ogulin cave sponge (Eunapius subterraneus), the only subterranean freshwater sponge in the world, the Babich’s cave prawn (Troglocaris anophthalmus intermedia), the Cave tube-worm (Marifugia cavatica), the Kordun cave pill-bug (Monolistra caeca meridionalis) and the Enigmatic cave hydrozoan (Velkovrhia enigmatica). Unfortunately, discarded waste, sewage and domestic pollutants brought into the Đula Medvedica by the Dobra has resulted in the caves becoming a sad example of polluted groundwater systems, and of human neglect of the environment. Đula Medvedica presently features on the Karst Waters Intitute’s Top Ten List of Endangered Karst Ecosystems world-wide. Other contributing factors threatening the system are the hydrologic engineering and watercourse changes executed during the
construction of the Gojak power plant, irrational use of pesticides and fertilizers in farming, the Tounj quarry, and spillage of dangerous chemicals from traffic accidents. Social and industrial development has considerably altered the nature of waste, adding modern pollutants such as herbicides and detergents, to the mix. All indicators point to the iminent and urgent need for protectiive measures to save this unique and beautiful world beneath the surface. The Đula Medvedica cave system is not presently equipped for tourism and access is only permitted for trained speleologists on approved expeditions. Until The Đula Medvedica is returned to its natural state, and touring the wonders beneath the town becomes possible, educational posting boards teasingly speckle throughout Ogulin’s streets describing in text and imagery what is directly below. Opportunity to satisfy a curiosity for subterrænean wonder first hand however is possible at numerous alternative locations throughout Croatia where touring the gems of the underworld has already been made ˇ possible. The Cerovacke špilje, near ˇ and the Manita Pecˇ in PakGracac, lenica are two examples, and closer to Ogulin on the way to Rijeka are the caves in Fuzine. The oldest cave in Croatia equipped for tourism is the Modra špilja on the island of Biševo.
Forest Tree Wood
herever you go in Ogulin you will see trees; into town, down town, leaving town, firmly planted in the ground, on the backs of lorries, or stacked in gardens patiently waiting to heat Ogulin homes throughout the white months. You will smell lush foliage unfold as they straddle the mountains in blankets of spring green, pluck fruit from them during summer, and smell their wet decay as they undress through autumn. Frost enveloping them during winter prompts one to wonder just how they will survive the ordeal. But the marvels of nature are both delicate and robust, as well as colourfully life affirming.
Nearly half of Croatia is forested, mostly with beech, 75% of which is state owned, and 90% of that is managed. The remaining 10% is either protected or reserved for special use. The part forestry plays in the Ogulin region, economically aswell as culturally, is therefore substantial.
The forests of the Dinaric Alps are also rich with wild life, and in particular the brown bear. A thriving population of these fascinating creatures roam the forests surrounding Ogulin and adjoining Gorski Kotar, and are nowadays proudly celebrated as a part of Croatia’s national heritage.
An example of this is Ogulin’s production of high quality parquet flooring, comprehensive in all its procedures from processing the tree trunks to the manufacture and finishing of the parquet. Responsible forest management and respect for the strictest of international standards has secured the Ogulin parquet industry a vibrant segment of the international market for the bulk of its production.
Their success now calls for a need for management, and hunting is permitted, usually under the supervision of a game keeper. Brown bears can grow up to 400 kg, and as trophies such specimens are extremely sought after. The region also plays host to reintroducing orphaned bear cubs into the wild. Photographic safaris are also growing in popularity and local forest guide services are available.
A humming chainsaw and the crack of wood as it splits in hot summer alerts one to the crisp needs of deep winter.
"Unique among all God's creatures, only the honeybee improves the environment and preys not on any other species." Royden Brown "If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live!" Albert Einstein
Environmental awareness of the intricate relationship between honeybees and our own survival, together with the personal pleasure derived from interacting with them is perhaps partly due to the participation of, and promotion by celebrities such as Red Hot Chili Peppers bassist Flea, Leonardo DiCaprio, Scarlett Johansson and Morgan Freeman; all of whom are fascinated by these extraordinary creatures, and who are active beekeepers. When traveling through Croatia it is evident that their fascination is shared by many others. Beehives speckle the countryside, at times in clusters of twos or threes, at others stacked in multi-story towers. Whether nestled in the mountain-side, in fields or in gardens they colourfully feature from the adriatic coast through the mountainous greenery of Gorski Kotar, and on to Karlovac, Zagreb, and beyond. David Fabijan, a beekeeping enthusiast from Ogulin is passionate about his bee colony, which he refers to as 'more than a hobby and never a job'. Beekeeping for David began after a friend from Istria gave him a swarm and a hive. Within a year of bringing them to Ogulin it had multiplied fivefold. This summer he took the bees back to Istria for a holiday where they collected pollen from a field of lavender his brother had planted some years ago. It's all about the taste.
Getting intimate with his bees however, takes time. David has already removed his gloves, choosing to deal with the bees literally hands on, and expects to cast aside his helmet and face net sometime during the next couple of years.
Four combes are placed in the centrifugal machine where the honey is extracted. When the artificial combes are full the bees add cells of their own as required. When asked to describe the motivation behind his beekeeping David says that it would be natural to mention some of the environmental aspects of looking after bees, care-taking for the benefit of a future generation, or even simply because the sweet taste of honey is so good. But in fact, he just doesn't know. For him it was love at the first sting. The passion is just there, omnipresent, deepening with each new experiment and experience.
L
ime tree tea has a soothing quality and has been called the 'nectar of kings' throughout the ages. It is also used to detox the body and for stimulating the digestive process, for relieving migrane and for curing insomnia. The flowers are the most valued; small, yellowish-white and pleasantly fragrant. When dried they are mildly sweet and sticky. Infused with lime leaves and bark they make a refreshing tea set to kickstart any day of the week.
Honey branding + bee photography by Kenn Clarke
I
n Croatian there are two words for 'dead'. 'Uginuti' when referring to animals and plant life; and 'umro', when referring to people and bees. Honey bees have six legs, two compound eyes made up of thousands of tiny lenses (one on each side of the head), three simple eyes on the top of the head, two pairs of wings, a nectar pouch, and a stomach. A bee in the working season lives for about six weeks. During winter about six months. A single bee produces a twelfth of a tea spoon of honey during its lifetime. A hive of bees will fly 90,000 miles, the equivalent of three orbits around the earth to collect one kilogram of honey. It takes one ounce of honey to fuel a bee's flight around the world. Bees die after stinging because the skin contracts and pulls the stinger from the bee. Bees don't like the smell of alchohol. Bees see in ultra violet. A toxin in bee venom called melittin may prevent HIV. Bee stings may also ease pain caused by rheumatoid arthritis because molecules in bee venom increase the body’s level of glucocorticoid, an anti-inflammatory hormone. Honeybees recognize people the same way humans do. It’s called 'configular processing'. Bees use the sun as a compass. When it’s cloudy, they navigate by polarized light, using special photoreceptors to find the sun's place in the sky. The Vikings may have used a similar system. Royal Holloway University in London found that if bees need to visit several flowers in different locations they are able to work out
the shortest route possible. So far, they are the only creatures besides humans known to solve this problem. A single bee travels about 30 kilometres a day when collecting nectar. Of all the possible structures, honeycombs use the least amount of wax. Not only are honeycombs the most efficient structures in nature, but their construction begins at six different points and meet precisely at 120-degree angles, a perfect hexagon. Bees collect pollen close to their hive, but far enough away so that predators can’t find the hive. This behavior led to algorithms which have improved computer models used by the police to find serial killers. Bees are the only insect that produces food eaten by humans. Their sense of smell is so precise that it can differentiate hundreds of floral varieties and tell whether a flower carries pollen or nectar from several metres away. The honey bee's wings stroke incredibly fast, about 200 beats per second, thus making their famous, distinctive buzz. A honey bee can fly for up to six miles, and as fast as 15 miles per hour. A colony of bees consists of up to 60,000 individuals and a queen. The queen bee has control over whether she lays male or female eggs. Each colony has a unique odour for it's members' identification. The worker bees produce honeycomb comprised of hexagon shaped cells through the consumption of honey produced from the collected flower nectar. To produce one pound of beeswax, six to eight pounds of honey are ingested.
Cough Collect the fresh buds of pine needles and place in a glass jar. Cover with sugar and seal with a lid. Place in the sunshine for a summer. This becomes a very pleasant cough mixture. Aromatics can be added to taste.
& Cold Potions For influenza more potent potions are on hand. Walnut, pear, cherry and plum are just a few of the flavours infused into locally distilled rakija.
To finish, cut the yield with water; half rakija and half water is about right. Top off with a little of the rakija before bottling. Should hold at about 80% proof.
For a 5 litre batch, mix:
Have fun and experiment for cocktails, teas and toddies.
3 kilos of preferred fruit 3 kilos sugar 4 litres water 1 packet wine yeast Crush the fruit with the sugar, water, and yeast; then stir smooth. Place in a cool, dry place for about 4 weeks. After fermentation, strain the mash through a cheesecloth. Open the cooker and pour in the juice. As the fermented fruit juice heats, it will evaporate, traveling through the copper coil and cooling as it goes. Discard the first 100 ml of the yield; anything that comes out before the liquid is up to proper temperature. When the proper cooking range of 81-122° C is reached it will hold. What comes out after that is pure rakija. (Cooking is over when the liquid begins to run cloudy. ) Run the distilled rakija through a filter several times to eliminate some of the heavy metals collected from the copper tubing.
zalja
Šmit’s Lake is not much bigger than a pond, but it is here never-the-less, Saint George slayed the dragon and saved the damsel from distress. I am told that the print of his horse’s hoof is embedded in a stone beside the lake. Everyone seems to agree on this, although I have yet to find it, or for that matter, meet anyone who has. Nearby there are several caves where the 'human fish' (olm) are found.