TexTalk well-fed head
Take a tour of Texas cuisine without leaving home
By M. CLARE HAEFNER
T
rying to put together a cookbook that encompasses all the best foods the Lone Star State has to offer is a daunting challenge, but food writer and fourth-generation Texan Jessica Dupuy pulls it off in “United Tastes of Texas: Authentic Recipes from all Corners of the Lone Star State” (Oxmoor House/Time Inc. Books, 2016). The colorful collection includes about 125 recipes from across all regions of Texas, but Dupuy says it easily could have contained more. “If we had enough space for all of the recipes that made the list, we could have easily printed twice the amount,” she said. “That may have been the most difficult task; culling the recipes that wouldn’t make the book. My great aunt’s chocolate brownies are amazing, but at the end of the day, we already had a few chocolate desserts and had to scale back.” Starting with Central Texas, Dupuy divides the state into regions, providing a sampling of the best cuisine each has to offer. “I’m a fourth generation Texan, and while I think everyone can talk about foods commonly associated with their home state, I think Texas has a particular identity that people clearly recognize,” she said. “When we talked about how we would approach the recipes in the book, it became very clear that we’d need to discuss the regionality of the cuisine. Texas is a big state. And it was settled by different cultures over a long period of time. Because of that, we have a unique blend of flavors that resonate more in different parts of the state than others. In the end, this wasn’t just a book about family recipes, it was about trying to represent the flavors people most identify with from all corners of the state.” In Central Texas, recipes showcase the area’s German and Czech heritage, along with “the distinctive style of smoking meat that defines Texas barbecue today.” The section includes recipes for smoked brisket and baby back ribs, along with typical sides, such as potato salad and cole slaw, and a variety of desserts, including a coffee cake Dupuy’s family serves at special breakfasts. East Texas cuisine combines flavors from FrenchCajun areas of Louisiana with other traditional Southern foods, offering a sampling of recipes from BBQ bacon and black-eyed peas to bourbon sweet potatoes and Grandma’s meatloaf. And don’t forget traditional Texas Pecan Pie. Coastal Texas cuisine makes the most of fresh seafood, with recipes for crab cakes, fish tacos and a couple of takes on gumbo, while South Texas serves as the birthplace for Tex-Mex. Every favorite from King Ranch Chicken to the Original Nacho can be found in this section, which also includes recipes for a variety of dips, salsas and tacos. West Texas offers greater Mexican flavor and a frontier-style cooking, including recipes for Texas Caviar, Huevos Rancheros, Frito Pie, Carne Guisada and Cowboy Cookies. In every section of the book, you’ll find recipes for appetizers, entrees, salads, sides and desserts, making it easy to plan a full meal in each region, or to combine your favorites from each for a true taste of Texas. At the end, you’ll find ideas 22
JUNE 2016 | TEX APPEAL
for celebrations, including a few Texas cocktails. When asked to pick her favorite recipes in “United Tastes of Texas,” Dupuy said, “It’s hard to choose a few.” It’s an understandable statement because the book’s vivid photography makes every recipe look delicious. “My favorites tend to change with what time of year it is,” Dupuy said, “but I absolutely love the Banana Pudding. It’s a sentimental favorite because it’s something my mom has always made for me on special occasions. I also love the Bourbon sweet potatoes — a obligatory dish at family Thanksgiving feasts that fills in as both a side dish and a dessert. I think the recipe I had the most fun developing was the con carne sauce for the enchiladas. I love the flavors that Ancho chiles bring to a dish, and the depth of flavor in these enchiladas is heavenly.” Along with recipes, Dupuy shares the stories of several of the state’s top chefs, including Andrew Wiseheart of Contigo in Austin and Melissa Guerra of San Antonio, who shares her tamale recipe. This technique, along with her personal notes to introduce many of the recipes, separates the cookbook from other Texas-inspired collections. “Food is such a great common bond for people,” Dupuy said. “Since the dawn of time, we’ve shared a tradition of breaking bread together in cultures all across the world. It’s the language we use to celebrate a life achievement, to comfort people when they’re down, to share with strangers and friends alike. When you can’t think of a single thing to talk to someone else about, you’ll never go wrong discussing family recipes or eating traditions.”
From mouth-watering entrees to decadent desserts, “United Tastes of Texas” by Jessica Dupuy has it all, including this classic, found on page 49.
Texas Sheet Cake Somehow Texas claimed the sheet cake as its own in the mid-20th century, perhaps because of the pecans in the frosting, an ingredient that grows in abundance throughout the Lone Star State. The defining element is a large baking sheet or jelly-roll pan for baking ... and the frosting, which has to be heated and poured on the cake while the cake is warm out of the oven. The result is a rich, chocolaty treat that’s synonymous with Texas. Makes 24 servings Hands-on 20 minutes Total 2 hours, including frosting 1½ cups spicy cola soft drink, such as Dr Pepper 1 cup vegetable or canola oil ½ cup unsweetened cocoa 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon table salt ½ cup buttermilk 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 teaspoon vanilla extract FUDGE FROSTING ½ cup butter ½ (4 ounces) unsweetened chocolate baking bar, chopped 3 tablespoons milk 3 tablespoons spicy cola soft drink 4 cups powdered sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1¼ cups chopped toasted pecans 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring first 3 ingredients to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring often. Remove from heat. 2. Whisk together flour and next 4 ingredients in a large bowl until blended; add warm soft drink mixture. Whisk in buttermilk, eggs, and vanilla. Pour batter into a lightly greased 17½- x 12½-inch jelly-roll pan. 3. Bake at 350°F for 18 to 22 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. 4. Prepare Fudge Frosting: Heat butter
Photos and recipe from “United Tastes of Texas” reprinted with permission of Oxmoor House /Time Inc. Books.
and chocolate in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring constantly until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in milk and soft drink until blended. Stir in sugar and vanilla. Beat at medium speed with an electric mixer until smooth and sugar dissolves. Pour over warm cake, spreading gently to edges. Sprinkle with chopped pecans. Cool completely in pan (about 1 hour).
Texas Tidbit: Drink of Dublin Dublin, Texas, is famous for Dr
Pepper. The popular soda was introduced in Waco in 1885 and was produced by the Dublin Bottling Works in 1891. Made with pure sugar cane, this soft drink has a special place in the heart of Texans. A 2012 dispute with the parent company of the brand forced Dublin Bottling Works to remove “Dr Pepper” from its name. While the plant still makes the same particular soda, distribution is limited to a 44-mile radius of Dublin. (Read more about Dublin Bottling Works on page 59.) TEXAPPEALMAG.COM
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