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KILGORETROUT.COM
ELEGANCE AUTUMN MUST-HAVES LAYERED-UP LOOKS FOR CLEVELAND WINTERS
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CONTENTS
fall/ winter 2018
12 70 34
38 FEATURES 8
H, THE PLACES O THEY’LL GO Catching Up with the Shopkeepers’ Daughters
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WO ITALIANS T AND A BRIT…
34 MAGNANNI:
FOOT LOOSE 68 M UNRO:
MADE FOR YOU 71 B OOK
REVIEW
Selling the Hug Your Customers Way
FASHION 14
LAYER ME UP
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MR. TROUT
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THE EDGE OF AUTUMN
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WEAR WITH ALL
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THE FALL BLAZER
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WOMEN’S TRENDS
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MODERN LOOKS FOR THE MODERN MAN
DEPARTMENTS 4 6 10 12 70 72
Welcome Letter Kilgore Trout Events At Your Service What’s in Store Food & Drink End Page: The Art of Living
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ETON, 28601 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD CLEVELAND, OH 44122 216-831-0488 KILGORETROUT.COM FACEBOOK.COM/KILGORETROUTCLEVELAND
Publisher SHAE MARCUS Editor-in-Chief KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Managing Editor JILLIAN LAROCHELLE Cleveland Editor CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Design Director HANS GSCHLIESSER Concept Director ANDREW MITCHELL-NAMDAR Director of Sales MONICA DELLI SANTI Director of Production & Circulation CHRISTINE HAMEL Advertising Services Director JACQUELYNN FISCHER Production/Art Assistant ALANNA GIANNANTONIO Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK
APPAREL FORUM
ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL Kilgore Trout is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with KIlgore Trout. Copyright © 2018 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. Printed In The U.S.A. Volume 21, Issue 2. ©2018
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The future of your wardrobe is personal and custom-made...
Head to Toe W one I’m especially excited about. Earlier this year I was hosted in Amsterdam to elcome to the new season at Kilgore Trout,
meet with a new menswear maker that intrigued us: Atelier Munro. We had learned about this company from our colleagues in Portland and couldn’t wait to check them out for ourselves. The team of bigthinking Netherlanders has a simple goal: “Let’s revolutionize the way men buy and wear clothing.” In today’s ever-changing world, this philosophy was music to my ears. Atelier Munro has developed complete head-to-toe customization using innovative technology, gorgeous virtual showrooms and exceptional tailoring. I met with the brand’s design team and was able to explore its Virtual Showroom in a real-world retail environment, just as a customer would. And I was impressed. Suits, sportcoats, outerwear and denim—every piece is custom crafted for a completely unique garment with a flawless fit, made only for you, at prices that don’t break the bank. And by producing only what a customer wants, they minimize waste and are an antidote to mass-produced fast fashion. I left Amsterdam feeling energized about this concept. In fact, I haven’t been this excited about an enhancement to the store since we debuted our redesigned Ermenegildo Zegna shop in 2014. So, late this fall we’ll launch our own Atelier Munro Virtual Showroom (see the rendering above). It will be anchored by the Atelier Desk, where our style coaches will help customers find the perfect fit and sort through all the design options using our try-on models, samples and technology, offering advice along the way. Kilgore Trout now works with well over a dozen artisanal manufacturers around the world who produce exceptional one-off garments at every price point for both our classic and modern-thinking clients. We trust you’ll stop by often during our biggest-ever season of pop-ups and events. Every visit offers terrific opportunities to custom craft your wardrobe and to wear who you are—right on your sleeve—without compromise. Please know how much we appreciate your business. Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper
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Atelier Munro concept store in Amsterdam “I haven’t been this excited about an enhancement to Kilgore Trout since we opened the Ermenegildo Zegna shop.”
The architecture of historic canal houses and bridge (top), and the NEMO Science Museum designed by Renzo Piano (below) viewed from our canal cruise
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Men’s events
Women’s events
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MADE-TO-MEASURE FRIDAY & SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 14-15
NHA KHANH THURSDAY-SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11-13
Join made-to-measure specialist Laura Donati from Ermenegildo Zegna for the ultimate Su Misura experience. Discover the newest seasonal fabrics and options for made-to-measure clothing, the Casual Luxury made-to-measure collection, and expanded in-stock collections of Ermenegildo Zegna clothing and footwear.
Available for immediate purchase, the collection joins lightness and softness of silhouette and fabrication with the celebration of construction and classic forms.
SAMUELSOHN MADE-TO-MEASURE BY DESIGN WITH MAGNANNI FOOTWEAR FRIDAY & SATURDAY, OCTOBER 5-6
Meet designer Staci Snider and select from an expanded collection to take home and wear today. Thursday is a sneak preview, and Staci is in store on Friday and Saturday.
Join Dorian Anderson from Samuelsohn as he presents a curated collection of super-fine wools and intriguing blends of silks and linens, as well as innovative performance weaves, all individually measured, cut and sewn—masterfully crafted to fit your movement, posture, size and personal style. Customary Samuelsohn made-to-measure fees will be waived.*
BOGLIOLI MADE-TO-MEASURE PANTALONI TORINO 01 & 05 FRIDAY & SATURDAY, OCTOBER 12-13 David Newlove presents Boglioli, the renowned Italian luxury menswear defined by lightweight tailoring with a neat cut, plus a wide range of trousers from Pantaloni Torino.
TRASK AND PETER MILLAR SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 3 Jeff Munzel from Trask footwear is on hand to help you select from the fall/winter shoe and boot collection, plus Greg Locke will join us with the Peter Millar Crown collection: classic menswear reimagined in luxury fabrics, bold patterns and vibrant colors.
HERNO TRUNK SHOW FRIDAY & SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 9-10
SNIDER TRUNK SHOW THURSDAY-SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11-13
SCHYIA TRUNK SHOW THURSDAY-SATURDAY, OCTOBER 25-27 Kathy Fitzpatrick is in store with an expanded collection of leather jacket silhouettes available for special orders.
3X1 PREMIUM DENIM THURSDAY-SATURDAY, OCTOBER 25-27 Jennifer Wang presents a terrific collection of 3x1 denim made in NYC and available for immediate purchase.
HERNO TRUNK SHOW FRIDAY & SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 9-10
Josh Ward is in store on Friday with an expanded collection of Herno Italian outerwear, including styles available for quick delivery. Trunk event continues Saturday (women’s and men’s).
THE GIFT EVENT WITH GAS BIJOUX FRIDAY & SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 30-DECEMBER 1 Jean-Baptiste L’Anglais is here to show an expansion of the Gas Bijoux jewelry collection, available just in time for holiday giving.
Josh Ward is in store on Friday with an expanded collection of Herno Italian outerwear, including styles available for quick delivery. This trunk event continues Saturday with men’s and women’s fashions.
Earn Trout Club rewards with qualifying trunk event purchases.
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Oh
THE PLACES THEY’LL GO. Catching up with the shopkeepers’ daughters While Wally keeps Kilgore Trout on top of its game and Andrea continues to grow her OY-L natural skin care company, daughters Katie and Betsy Naymon are now all grown up—still traveling fearlessly, living kindly and making their parents beam with pride. It’s been five years since they’ve been featured on these pages. It’s a great time to check in! Katie wasn’t looking for love during her study abroad program in Sweden, but along came Robin Odelind, a Swede finishing his law degree in Stockholm. The pair instantly hit it off. After six months, Katie returned to Johns Hopkins University and their relationship continued—with alternating visits over the next four years while Katie completed her BS in creative writing, received her Swedish Visa, attended graduate school, taught freshman English and acted as an editor at hercampus.com. In the meantime, Robin joined a boutique tax law firm in Stockholm. Last year, Wally traveled to Scandinavia to visit Kilgore Trout vendors, and while there he enjoyed spending some time with Robin on his home turf, seeing Katie’s future apartment and doing “research” in the menswear stores on the Götgatan and Biblioteksgatan shopping streets. This May, Katie received her MFA in poetry from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro and promptly boarded yet another flight to Stockholm, this time with all her belongings in tow. Katie loves her new career as an English language editor for an education marketing firm. Though most Swedes speak perfect English, Katie’s goal is to become fluent in their language quickly, because “Ett språk är aldrig nog!” (one language is never enough). Betsy became an intrepid traveler during high school when she joined a National Geographic Student Expedition to Peru. In the two years that followed, she traveled to Thailand, Laos and Tanzania, spent six weeks in Kenya researching global health and political issues, and backpacked across Europe. And that’s just the start! You’ll need to pull out your atlas to keep up with the rest of her adventures with a cause. In 2016, Andrea and Wally endured six nervous months while Betsy worked in northern Uganda for Krochet Kids International, helping women affected by the civil war to start their own businesses. Next up was a month-long field research program on social entrepreneurship in Cape Town, followed by four months with a non-governmental organization (NGO) helping the indigenous women of the Guatemalan Highlands. After that, she studied in Chile for five months, before chilling out for a month—by hiking in Patagonia. Betsy kicked off this spring with a camping trip to Iceland before starting her final co-op at MIT’s Poverty Action Lab, where she’s working on randomized control trials measuring the effectiveness of interventions in healthcare, poverty and education in North America. Then, it’s just one more semester before Betsy graduates from Northeastern University with a well-deserved degree in International Affairs and minors in Global Health, Global Social Entrepreneurship and Economics. Look out, world. Top: Betsy kayaks in the highlands of Guatemala. Center: Katie and Robin, now living in Stockholm, Sweden. Bottom: Betsy celebrates reaching 3,528 meters at the border between Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
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ALL WAYS & ALWAYS
The people of Kilgore Trout are here to help.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in madeto-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.
ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.
BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.
CUSTOMER LOUNGE
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.
HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office.
PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand-delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.
CLOSET CLEANING One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. An experienced tailor can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and eases your shopping experience. We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.
In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water, and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen. We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.
TROUT CLUB REWARD PROGRAM Earn points with every qualifying purchase and receive this magazine by mail each season: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent. Twice each year, we’ll email you a summary of your available Trout Club rewards.
GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout Gift Card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination and arrive in a gift box, ready to give. Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.
CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customer. Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime and we’ll donate them to a local charity providing clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.
CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options and over 50 retailers to satiate your every need. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor. Need to know more? Call us at 216.831.0488.
CONNECT WITH US Connect with kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest news, trends and events.
ETON, 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-8
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THE BAD AND BEAUTIFUL. FA18 #THEBADANDBEAUTIFUL
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what’s in store
GETTING TO KNOW KILGORE TROUT’S FABULOUS JEWELRY & WATCH DESIGNERS Gai Russo, Amy Kekst and Filip Blazevic Filip & Co. Kilgore Trout’s unique watch concept created by Filip Blazevic. What first piqued your interest in jewelry/ watch design?
It all started when I was 5 with a gift from my father: a Russian-made, mechanical hand-wound watch named Raketa. From that moment, I fell in love with watches and started collecting all kinds. However, this proved difficult and costly since nothing in my collection was exactly the way I wanted it, so I started making my own. I crafted a couple of pieces out of brass with a porcelain dial and mechanical ETA movement, and gave one to my neighbor for his birthday. He was so impressed that he suggested I start a business. Do you have a mentor? Where did you learn your craft?
I don’t have a mentor; I am self-taught. I started messing around with watchmaking when my friend gave me a tin can full of old watches. I bought myself a book entitled The Watch Repairer’s Manual by Henry B. Fried and started fixing them one by one. Describe your collection: concept, execution, materials and price. Where do you get your ideas?
My collections are based on traditional watchmaking concepts. The watches are clean, legible and uncomplicated, yet modern and unique. Each collection is designed with a different goal in mind. All my collections are made from 316L anti-magnetic steel, marked with FILIP & Co. on the case side. Exhibition case backs reveal highly decorated ETA movements, and leather straps are custom made. I use the best materials I can find for each collection; prices range from $1,095 for Bluebloods to $3,600
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for Chronographs. I like to say that I have a lifetime’s worth of ideas for new watches based on my brain databank of life experiences. I’m also inspired by excellent designs from brands like Hamilton and Bulova to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Which parts of your job give you the most satisfaction?
I love it all, but when a new timepiece is entirely assembled and on your wrist alive and ticking, that’s the most exciting part of the journey. What do you like to do when you’re not working?
I love working on cars. My first builds were cars and motorcycles; in my younger days I built a VW Buggy and restored a few cars for fun. I have two older BMWs that I drive and work on all the time. Great cars. They’re as “old school” as my watches.
Filip Blazevic’s watches tick at Kilgore Trout. From top: The FortyFive (back and face) and Chrono Sport
KILGORE TROUT FALL/WINTER 2018
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Amy Kest Jewelry Chain it Up!
“My early years were spent in the performing arts. I started dancing at age 10 and was always interested in design. I was a choreographer for many years, then dabbled in various other creative outlets when my children were young. “My focus on jewelry began about 17 years ago when I started studying the jewelry people wore, sometimes pulling it off their necks to copy it. Soon I began creating my own pieces, teaching myself the craft. As I got better, people started pulling the stuff off my neck, so then I started selling it! “Kilgore Trout was an early supporter; I’ve been here for almost 17 years. Early on, I struggled with a clear point of view—I used semi-precious, sterling silver, 18 to 22K gold: traditional looks that were nice but not unusual. As I discovered and connected with chain, I found a clearer voice. I could take the simplest, most classic-looking design and by adding, layering, winding or draping chain, it instantly became a contemporary, unique piece. My motto became ‘Chain it up!’ If three chains look good, six will look even better!”
Gai Russo
Hammering On “What first piqued my interest in jewelry design was my grandmother’s jewelry box! On Sundays when we’d visit her, I’d go through it, admiring each piece of costume jewelry by Coro, Trifari and Sarah Coventry. (My Aunt Ila gave me that jewelry box in 1992 when my father had brain surgery. I will never forget her act of love in gifting me that prized possession.) “At Kent State University, while drifting around trying to discover a major, I took a jewelry class and was instantly smitten. I graduated with a BA from University of Oregon in jewelry/ metals. “My concept is to make jewelry that immediately fits into one’s daily life, jewelry that works with jeans and a T-shirt, with a vintage dress or a suit. I am very inspired by nature (tree bark, the colors in bird feathers, the scent of rain on pavement), and I personally execute all steps in the process: from design to hand hammering, hand stamping and hand knotting. I make my own ear wires and toggle clasps. My materials are sterling silver, 14K gold fill, semi-precious stones, vintage old stock (glass, Lucite), beads and Swarovski crystal. My price range is $65 to $300 with the average about $125. My husband Ron (who encouraged me early on to follow my dream) is my editor and co-designer of our aromatic jewelry, and my cat Stella and my dog Posey chime in when necessary.”
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CLEVELAND GUYS KNOW HOW TO DRESS FOR THE UNPREDICTABLE SEASON
LAYER LAYER ME UP LAYER ME UP ME UP KILGORE TROUT MUST-HAVES FALL 2018 | WINTER 2019
ART DIRECTION | CHRISTOPHER HIXSON STYLING | STEVE WRIGHT & CHRISTINA STONE PHOTOGRAPHY | JIM MARTIN POST-PRODUCTION | MIKE STEINER
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Herno reversible ultralight goose down jacket, Rag & Bone cotton flannel shirt, Autumn Cashmere shawl-collar sweater with leather trim
Lone Pine quilted suede vest, Phil Petter quarter-zip wool sweater, Paul Smith scarf
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Boglioli shearling jacket, Thomas de L’île pure cashmere sweater with elbow patches, Giannetto Portofino cotton shirt
Etro alpaca and wool jacket and cotton paisley shirt
Common Projects Achilles sneaker FA LL/WIN TER 2018 THE SUB STA N CE OF ST Y L E
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Canada Goose camo puffer, Faherty cotton sweater
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Massimo Alba softly constructed wool blazer, Autumn Cashmere hoodie, AG corduroy 5-pocket, Paul Smith cashmere-lined deerskin glove
Billy Reid corduroy soft jacket, cotton shirt and cotton henley, Magnanni “Thiago” shoe
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Lardini wide-wale corduroy soft jacket, PT05 selvedge denim 5-pocket, Xacus cotton flannel shirt
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Mason’s camo jacket with removable hooded bib, Phil Petter boiled wool sweater, Mason’s weave-effect cotton trouser K I LG O RE TRO UT FALL/W INTE R 2 018
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Phil Petter wool blazer sweater, Xacus flannel shirt, Gran Sasso wool polo, Incotex horizontal cord with cell phone pocket
Trask “Brady” navy suede boot
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Isaia quilted wool peacoat, Merino wool button-down shirt, and windowpane plaid trouser
Harris Wharf wool knit walking coat, Etro mixed-print wool scarf
Two Italians & a Brit walk into a bar...
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Ermenegildo Zegna “Elements” wool trench, soft cashmere-blend sportcoat, cashmere silk turtleneck, denim trouser, wool ball cap
No joke, gents. These terrific hookups from two of your favorite Italian designers—Isaia and Ermenegildo Zegna— and British designer Harris Wharf are three of our favorite outerwear picks for the coming season. FA LL/WIN TER 2018
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Kilgore ups his style game with 10 smart picks for fall. WHAT WILL MR. TROUT WEAR?
Inis Meáin
impeccable Irish knitwear
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Thomas De L’île luxury cashmere
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Samuelsohn
Eton shirt, Isaia 7-fold silk tie
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Secrid
secure slim wallets
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footwear
Tip Top: Well-maintained footwear speaks volumes about the man wearing it.
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FOOT Loose! A modern man’s guide to building a footwear wardrobe. By Karen Alberg Grossman No one knows more about shoemaking than the Blanco family, for shoemaking is in their DNA. Here we chat with Magnanni’s third generation, Pascual Blanco, about the perfect shoe wardrobe for fall 2018. Can you give us a little background on your company?
Shoemaking has been part of the Blanco family for three generations. It began when our grandfather, Sebastián Blanco Aldomar, started his own workshop on the ground floor of his house in Almansa in the region of La Mancha, Spain. His small home-based operation employed only five shoe artisans. Our grandfather’s only son, our father Pascual Blanco Sr., started studying shoe design at age 14 and quickly became the head designer of his father’s company. My father was inspired by the romance and feel of early-American cinema, so he created more refined and elegant shoe designs that define the Magnanni aesthetic. We are now in our 64th year and Magnanni continues to be family-owned and operated by my five siblings and me. Our youngest brother,
Luis, is our head designer; he is continuously improving and evolving the shapes and lines of our shoes while implementing new technologies. Our oldest brother, Miguel, is in charge of creating new hand-antiquing methods and new colorways to highlight and complement Luis’ designs. We each have a role that reflects our strengths.
What are the key styles men must have in their footwear wardrobes for fall 2018?
The Magnanni Man has an elevated taste level and a worldly lifestyle, so my top picks from our autumn/winter ’18 collection would be: a comfort dress shoe, a contemporary fashion monk strap in perhaps a tobacco shade, a dress sneaker (why not cognac?), an athleisure sneaker, a fashion dress shoe, a dress/casual hybrid, a fabulous boot (we love gray!) and a formal shoe, perhaps in navy. But which is the must-have shoe this season?
It’s hard for me to pick just one, but I absolutely love what we’ve been able to create with our new Diversa comfort dress shoe line. Diversa means “diversified fit and feel from your
If the Shoe Fits: Always make sure your style is appropriate for the occasion.
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{ “My father was inspired by the romance and feel of early-American cinema.” average dress shoe.” Our goal was to create a collection of dress shoes with all the Magnanni DNA (beautiful lasts, modern designs, unique colors) but with the feel of a sneaker. After a long road of research and development, we’ve achieved this, which is so rewarding. This is the most comfortable dress shoe I’ve ever worn! Your thoughts on the now-ubiquitous sneaker trend?
Magnanni has embraced and intertwined the sneaker into our overall selection for the customer by offering many subcategories: dress sneakers, retro runners, modern hybrids and fashion high-tops. Sneakers have become a go-to item for men in both work and casual lifestyles. What type of shoe works best with a suit? With jeans?
The style that best works for a suit depends on the suit’s intended purpose. For example, if we are starting with a classic navy blue suit with a tailored fit, we would recommend pairing with a fashion dress style. The shoe will accentuate the lines of the suit from top to bottom. I would choose a shade of brown or tobacco; for a more formal setting, a cognac shade really makes the navy
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Well Heeled: The right dress shoe (nothing too formal) adds a touch of class to dark denim.
pop. However, if our starting point is the same suit paired with a casual tee, a sneaker like our Elonso Lo Cognac would be perfect for a modern, laid-back feel. The same thinking applies to denim: If I’m wearing a sportcoat with a dress shirt to the office, I’d wear a dress/casual shoe; if I’m going to a fútbol match with my son, I’d wear our Merino sneaker with my jeans. What mistakes do men most often make when coordinating footwear with apparel?
For me, traditional rules no longer apply. Dress shoes and sneakers in today’s fashion climate are now interchangeable and can be worn with everything from suits to denim. My only steadfast rule is to make sure I’m dressed appropriately for the occasion. Why are shoes so expensive these days?
Shoe prices are derived from many variables including R&D, design, marketing and production costs like raw materials and labor. Our family’s approach has always been to control every aspect of the business to enable the best product, at the best price, while providing tremendous value to the end customer. It is said that women judge men by their shoes: What are they looking for exactly?
A man wearing a great pair of shoes gives women insight into his taste level, attention to detail and sense of style. However, no matter what shoe a man wears, it has to be polished and well maintained to show he knows how to take care of the finer things in life.
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Good food is a celebration of life. - Sophia Loren
EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.
phone: 216.298.9131• email: contact@zackbruellevents.com • view: zackbruellevents.com
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KILGORE TROUT’S MUST-HAVES FOR HER FALL 2018
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THE EDGE OF AUTUMN ART DIRECTION CHRISTOPHER HIXSON
STYLING CHRISTINA STONE
PHOTOGRAPHY JIM MARTIN
RETOUCH MIKE STEINER
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JONATHAN SIMKHAI JACQUARD ZIP PEPLUM, HIGH-RISE DRESS PANT WITH HOOK & EYE DETAIL, WATER SLEEVE WOOL/CASHMERE SWEATER
ET,
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L’AGENCE WASHED SILK BLOUSE, “MARGOT’ HIGH-RISE SKINNY JEANS WITH TUXEDO STRIPE
L’AGENCE MOTO JACKET, 360CASHMERE CARDIGAN, VERONICA BEARD TEE, 3X1 DISTRESSED JEANS
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fashion
add a PARKA
Make sure your coat always hangs a bit longer than your suit jacket. To keep it feeling dressed-up, go for neutral shades like gray, navy or olive and steer clear of sporty details like big patches.
WE A R WITH ALL Photographed by DAN SPRINGSTON Produced by JILLIAN LAROCHELLE Grooming by NATASHA LEIBEL Models ISAIAH HAMILTON and ALESSANDRO MELE for Wilhelmina
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STONE ISLAND PARKA, HICKEY FREEMAN SUIT, ISAIA SHIRT & TIE
How to maximize (and modernize) your suit style.
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add a VEST
For a new—and warmer—take on the three-piece suit, consider a lightweight quilted layering piece in luxe suede. This versatile vest can get double the wear paired with your sportswear pieces.
G
ET THE
MOST FROM YOUR SUITING WITH THESE
CANALI SUIT, SHIRT & TIE, SAMUELSOHN VEST, ZEGNA BOOTS
SIMPLE STYLE TWEAKS, THEN WATCH HEADS TURN.
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add a TURTLENECK
Stick to a monochromatic color scheme and make sure your turtleneck fits like a glove. Opt for a breathable, lightweight fabric, steering clear of chunky cable knits.
A
FEW HIGH-
QUALITY SUITS TAILORED TO PERFECTION IN EVERY GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE.
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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, MARTIN DINGMAN BELT
ARE A MUST
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add a CARDIGAN
ISAIA, MARTIN DINGMAN BELT
Keep each piece (shirt, sweater, jacket) fitted enough so it doesn’t add bulk, but comfortable enough so that the layers don’t restrict your movement. Try adding sneakers to this look: business on top, party on the bottom.
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A Must for Every Woman’s Wardrobe Art Direction Christopher Hixson Styling Christina Stone Photography Jim Martin (still-life) Dan Springston (models)
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ted a o c n o Huds jeans with skinny arbells b ankle
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uit s t n i d pr hmere r a p o e l ith cas w tleneck tur
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e c n e g A ’ L er vest blaz
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GUIDE
the
DENIM: ANYTHING GOES!
From long, lean flares to cropped skinnies, there’s not a single silhouette we didn’t see in the market this season – and we brought it all back to Cleveland with you in mind! We’re reintroducing denim from Rag & Bone; check out the high-rise kick flare with raw hem in a medium-blue wash. Novelty denim, like a bleach-splattered pair from our newest brand 3x1, is also a great addition to your roster. Or stick to a classic clean pair like the Lex, pictured below: with a flattering rise and straight-leg silhouette, the focus here is all about the fit.
new brand! JONATHAN SIMKHAI
TOP IT OFF
Jackets are an essential part of any fall wardrobe. Not only do they add a layer of warmth, but they’re the perfect way to pull together and polish almost any look. Patterns are the new solids, especially plaids and the classic brown-and-black leopard print. From boyfriend blazers of seasons past, we’ve seen a move toward shorter, more feminine silhouettes. Look for nipped-in waists and strong shoulders from Veronica Beard, and a long lapels with deep-V sex appeal from Smythe. We were so wowed by its impeccable tailoring and special button details that it has quickly become one of our favorite brands.
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We’re so excited to be bringing Jonathan Simkhai to Kilgore Trout, now the only place in Cleveland where you can buy the designer’s uniquely crafted creations. We’re stocking his amazing tops and sweaters that can be paired back to jeans; highrise wool trousers and denim with details like lace appliques and eyelet closures; and event wear that’s sure to help you stand out in any crowd. We love that the line can skew from classic to edgy, all depending on the attitude of the woman who wears it.
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WOMEN’S TRENDS:
OUR LIST OF WHAT’S NEW, NOW AND BEST IN STORE AT KILGORE TROUT.
mad for PLAID
Picking up the
SLACK(S) Are “dress” pants the new casual? We think so! This is the season to play with silhouettes and a major reason to update your wardrobe: rises are higher, flares are wider and embellishments are everywhere: think grommets, zippers and statement cuffs. Come in to see what’s new from the made-in-Italy brand Incotex. Standout pairs come in red wool, navy stripes, and plaid with edgy side-zip detailing.
Plaid is so quintessentially fall that we’ve come to consider it a staple. It’s
a perennial favorite, but recently we just can’t seem to get enough; you’re likely to spot it around the store on everything from skirts and trousers to blouses and outerwear. Our favorites include a mixed-neutral silk blouse from Vince, as well as a traditional-yet-cool red-background plaid with pops of yellows and greens from Smythe. For a fashion-forward look, try mixing plaids with other neutral prints.
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Modern Looks for
THE MODERN MAN
Fall/Winter 2018 takes on a sleek new vibe. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAN SPRINGSTON
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BOGLIOLI’s soft deconstructed jacket is made for layering.
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COMMON PROJECTS
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takes a walk on the wow side.
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A.P.C.
A.P.C. Classic
bomber jacket is the epitome of comfort. FA LL/WIN TER 2018 THE SUB STA N CE OF ST Y L E
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Sleek & sophisticated, GRAN SASSO braves the elements.
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HARRIS WHARF’s relaxed coat equips you for all occasions.
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designers
MADE FOR
YOU
ATELIER MUNRO, the world’s coolest custom clothing concept, hits Cleveland. Hailing from Amsterdam and relatively new to the
U.S., Atelier Munro crafts a true gentleman’s wardrobe customized from the ground up. The in-store showroom soon to be unveiled at Kilgore Trout is the heart of the experience. The area features a tailoring desk filled with fabric swatches, collars and cuffs, and more, allowing you and your sales associate to spread out and view all available options. With the touch of a finger, a large flat-screen display highlights the latest trends and brings a mod-
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ern, high-tech approach to the age-old tradition of custom tailoring. With the exception of the in-store try-on garments that allow you to experience the look and feel of the collection, Munro doesn’t own any stock. Instead, it partners with specialists in each field to make every item on demand, exactly to your specifications. With a collection of favorite stock fabrics available year-round and 200 new fabrics added each season, there is truly something to suit every taste and occasion. Most fabrics are Italian and sourced from the best mills in the industry, then tailored to the most comfortable fit possible. Munro’s recommended stance is “two-and-a-half button.” Suits range from half-canvas made in Munro’s state-of-the-art factory in Asia to fully handmade in Italy. Every suit has elements of hand finishing and high-end, free-of-charge optional details, like shoulder stitching and surgical cuffs. Custom trousers and jeans made in selvedge denim sourced from Japan and Italy also can be made to your measurements. Atelier Munro shirts have 37 different collar options. There are 11 options for neckwear styles. Italian-made pocket squares are either hand-stitched or hand-rolled. For an added personal touch, monogramming on ties and pocket squares is available at no extra charge. The Atelier Munro founders spent 11 years looking for the ideal production facilities to bring their concept to life, then spent many more months training their new partners, already manufacturing experts, in Italian tailoring techniques. Munro’s proprietary production technology is so unique and well thought through that nothing is left to chance. Each night, the system automatically transfers order files into production files and delivers them to the factories; the very next day, the cloth is cut and production begins. In a few weeks, all items in your order are ready and arrive in-store in a single delivery. Consistency is non-negotiable, so quality control experts at key points of the process are on the Munro payroll. When your order is placed, you’ll be given an expected arrival date (around three-and-a-half weeks for most items) and latest possible arrival date (fourand-a-half weeks). Only 1% of orders arrive at the latest date, a level of reliability that is almost unheard of. But don’t just take our word for it: Almost all customers who start by ordering a single suit or a few shirts soon return to round out their wardrobes with more from Atelier Munro. Come to Kilgore Trout and let us show you the array of options our Netherlands friends have made possible.
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food & drink
Nowadays, it seems like a no-brainer:
smoky
PAIR
Bourbon and BBQ have become an ideal match. By Robert Haynes-Peterson
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a high-end barbecue spot in Austin, NYC or LA offering the best-of-the-best tri-tip or slow-cooked brisket—boasting the perfect char and a juicy smoke ring—alongside an extensive menu of rare bourbons and ryes. But it wasn’t always the case: As little as 15 years ago, even great destination BBQ was largely relegated to bare-bones neighborhood spots, served on paper plates alongside a cold beer. Nothing wrong with that. But now the world has opened wide. “I love the American whiskeys, and I love them with barbecue,” says chef Aaron Robbins, owner of Boneyard Bistro in LA. Robbins insists that good BBQ has always been a luxury product of a sort: “It’s protein, often with bones: There’s nothing cheap about it. It’s been served at the White House for 100 years. What’s changed in recent years is a recognition that these two innately American traditions have similar roots: They’re handcrafted products that require time (around 24 hours for great ’cue and two years or more for great whiskey), and they both depend on the influence of wood to bring out their natural flavors, infusing notes of caramel, oak and spice. They’re also highly adaptable. Grilled meats are a staple of Japanese and Korean cuisines, and whiskey is produced around the world. Kyu (pronounced “cue”), a popular Japanese-American grill in Miami, bills itself as “Asia Meets Austin.” Chef/Owner Michael Lewis said that moving into the demanding Miami market (where barbecue was taking off), he and his partners decided, “Why can’t we do both—the Asian flavors everyone loves with the old-school American slow-cooking techniques?” You’ll find inventive offerings like Duck Breast Burnt Ends (chase with the bourbon and amaro-fueled No Figgity No Doubt cocktail). Closer to home, prolific Cleveland chef Zack Bruell is equally enthusiastic. At Alley Cat in the Flats, his East Bank cocktail (Watershed Bourbon, apricot liqueur, fresh lemon juice, pomegranate and a splash of Angostura bitters) is a great partner to the BBQ pork steak entree. A few miles away, the alchemists at Cleveland Whiskey fastage bourbon in handmade barrels, going far beyond the traditional oak. “It’s hard to make a barrel out of hickory, black cherry, or honey locust that doesn’t leak like a sieve,” they joke, “but not impossible.”
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book review
No one knows more about selling than Kilgore Trout’s friend and colleague Jack Mitchell. His newly released book, Selling the Hug Your Customers Way (available on Amazon), is a powerful read, guaranteed to improve your business and enrich your life. Why should I read this book if I’m not a salesperson?
We’re all selling something at various times in our lives. Doctors sell their healing ability when they’re with a new patient. Lawyers sell their persuasive talents and knowledge of the law. When we apply to a college or go on a job interview, we’re selling our qualifications. Day after day, in all walks of life, most of us are selling something to someone. How can customers find the right salesperson, one who won’t talk them into something that’s not right for them? (We’ve all been there!)
You can usually get a feel for a sales associate in the first few minutes, if not seconds. First off, do they ask, “Can I help you?” which is the exact wrong way to begin a relationship, rather than greet you warmly with a smile, allowing you to indicate when you need assistance. Do they look you in the eye? Do they want to know your name and get a feel for who you are before suggesting something? The right salesperson won’t rush you if you don’t want to be rushed and won’t schmooze if you’re in a hurry. They’ll ask how to reach you in the future; they’ll give you a business card so you can reach them. A good seller shows passion without pushing.
shopping with
HUGS
What do you look for when you hire sellers?
Best-selling author and retail expert Jack Mitchell on shopper-seller relationships. By Karen Alberg Grossman
They’ve got to have integrity (something few psychological tests pick up). They need to be positive and enthusiastic with a sincere desire to grow. They have to genuinely like people and revere customer service. If you shop at Kilgore Trout, these are the associates you’ll encounter. What was the best sale you ever made?
Convincing Linda to marry me, 57 years ago.
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end page
the art of
LIVING Self-help from 2,000 years ago. By Christian Chensvold When we complain that our educational system
doesn’t equip young people with the skills they need for life, we usually mean pragmatic things. You know, stuff that reflects the ever-fluctuating needs of the job marketplace and innovations in technology. And since there’s only so much time in the school day, it usually means cutting back on the arts and humanities, because, as many argue, what good does that stuff do in the real world anyway? It turns out quite a bit. You can have the most mar-
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ketable business skills in the world, but it won’t matter if you can’t manage life itself. It’s the game we all have to play—a kind of decathlon of work, love, friends, family, meaning, purpose, etc.—and being great at one and terrible at all the others won’t bring you peace and happiness. Fortunately, there’s a life manual written nearly 2,000 years ago with some of the most timeless wisdom ever committed to parchment. It’s the one self-help book everyone should own, and a powerful argument for the value of what was once known as a liberal education. The wise sage is named Epictetus (pronounced epicTEET-us), and he lived in the Roman Empire during the second century AD. He’s associated with the school of thought known as Stoicism, which encouraged one to take a detached attitude toward life, withstand adversity and pursue the highest virtues. Its chief shortcoming is an emotionless means of coping with worldly attachments. Lost your wife in a tragic accident? Well, she had to go sometime, and you can always find another. You get the idea. But at its best Stoicism provides the kind of practical everyday advice that will keep your temper intact, blood pressure low and digestion running smoothly. And nowhere is it better expressed than in the precious thought of Epictetus, which was taken down by one of his pupils. A few years ago, the work was given a freeform interpretation by Sharon Lebell under the title The Art of Living: The Classical Manual on Virtue, Happiness and Effectiveness. Consisting of pithy tidbits of wisdom, it’s the perfect book to keep ever-handy and take a minute to read each morning before venturing out into the world. Here are some samples: Things themselves don’t hurt or hinder us. Nor do other people. How we view these things is another matter. It is our attitudes and reactions that give us trouble. As you think, so you become. Most of what passes for legitimate entertainment is inferior or foolish and only caters to or exploits people’s weaknesses. Avoid being one of the mob who indulges in such pastimes. Your life is too short and you have important things to do. Regardless of what is going on around you, make the best of what is in your power, and take the rest as it occurs. As you see, the crux of Epictetus’ thought centers around one very simple premise: taking responsibility for that which you can control, and letting go of that which you can’t. Epictetus’ belief that while you can’t control external events, you can control your internal reaction to them, would resurface in Shakespeare’s Hamlet in the line, “Nothing’s good or bad but thinking makes it so,” and in the middle of the 20th century would become the foundation of Cognitive Behavioral Therapy in the field of psychology. So take charge of your life and give Epictetus a try. It should quickly become clear where you should be spending your time and energy.
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