Forum Forum/The Substance of Style Spring 2010
2010 TURNAROUND:
NEW DECADE, NEW ATTITUDE! CLEAN YOUR CLOSET, FREE YOUR SOUL THE POWER OF PURPLE
SUMMERTIME MUST HAVES
The magazine of
Kilgore trout cleveland, ohio
welcome
‘‘
The game is meant to be fun.’’ — Jack Nicklaus
confessions of a shopkeeper
PHOTO: LUIS ALVAREZ
If it's not one thing, it's another. By Wally Naymon
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"If it's not one thing, it's another." That's the essence of life, isn't it? The economy will do what it does. The car will either start or it won't. And our sports teams will win, or they'll lose. It's how we respond to it all that will make the difference—and win or lose, we're the ones to decide whether or not we have a good time at the game. Over these tumultuous few years, it's been a challenge for us (and no doubt for you as well) to keep a healthy perspective as we absorb the oftdisturbing events of the day. Once in a while, or maybe every day, it's a good idea to pause, take a breath, and reconsider all that's good in life. Thirty-three years ago when I opened Kilgore Trout, I planned to be here for the long haul. But I never imagined that this store, named for Kurt Vonnegut's fictional character, could take on such an exciting life of its own: complete with first steps, growing pains, a distinct personality and a wide circle of friends, moments of triumph and all the rest! Now at 33, our Kilgore Trout is just peering at mid-life, and the event calls for a deep breath, maybe even a momentary crisis, and continued reinvention—because we're still here for the long haul, and we're still having fun at the game. As we all age, we may need some updates, or a little lift, or to rethink our priorities—but at the core, our values will tend to remain steady. Here at Kilgore Trout, we've always valued enduring quality, enduring value, and enduring relationships. Thanks for playing the game with us! We look forward to seeing you this season and for many years to come.
28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 www.kilgoretrout.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Fran Salamon PRODUCTION MANAGER
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
FEATURES 1 4 15 20
Welcome Letter An Event for the Kids Dress for Success Keep it or Trash it
FASHION 6 14 22 24 26 32
Summertime Must Haves Classic and Timeless Footwear Zegna: Well Suited Fabulous Façonnable Spring Essentials Purple Reigns
DEPARTMENTS 16 40 42 44 46 48
Ask Forum Spirits: Marvelous Mezcals World Scene Behind the Scenes: Documenting Life Destinations: Cause Traveling End Page: Italian Flair
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2010. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 13, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
events
BIG
BROTHERS. SISTERS. FUN AT TROUT.
Our 33rd anniversary is a knock your socks off event to beneďŹ t Big Brothers Big Sisters of Greater Cleveland and the Jewish Big Brother Big Sister Association.
A portion* of every purchase will be
donated to BBBS Friday, April 9th Saturday, April 10th 10-6 each day *donation percentage will vary by
participating vendor
BBBS of Greater Cleveland matches at the 2009 Polar Blast snow tubing match event
When our buddy Vivek Nagrani introduced us to his latest special edition men's socks to benefit Big Brothers Big Sisters chapters around the country, we couldn't resist tailoring our entire 33rd anniversary event around them! Last season, our friends at Oak Hall in Memphis hosted a hugely successful event for their local BBBS chapter, and now it's time for some friendly rivalry. So we're planning a great weekend of prizes, a 33rd birthday cake, libations, and fun with some of our favorite vendors! Of course, Vivek will be in store with the entire VK Nagrani collection, and as we go to press we're getting other vendors on board for this worthy FUNraiser.
Big Brothers Big Sisters of Greater Cleveland and the Bellefaire JCB-based Jewish Big Brother Big Sister Association together serve over 1,100 youth annually through one-on-one mentoring with adults who volunteer as little as four hours each month. Their need for funding and mentors has never been greater.
To learn more: bbbs.org/cleveland or bellefairejcb.org.
Porsche recommends
value kilgore trout
Taylor Vintage
reversible shorts (twice the wear)
Pantofola d’Oro
Regatta washed boat shoe $299
Summertime... a must haves hum along for 2010
Kilgore Trout woven belts $95
an homage to George Gershwin
BD Baggies
cotton shirts from $98
Kilgore Trout
washed cotton trouser $125
creative director...Christopher Hixson photos...Andrew Mcallister styling...Dennis Marold
Façonnable
cotton shirts $145-185
Taylor Vintage
reversible shorts (twice the fun)
and the livin’ is easy.
Kroon
soft blazer $310
Mason’s
washed pique polo $89
Eyebobs
reading specs $65
kilgore trout quality
Elizabeth and James cotton jacket for her $395
color’s popping... Iosselliani earrings $240
Audrey Talbott dress $345
Luciano Barbera
luxe linen shirt
Agave Denim
for her $187
Jarbo
tuck top $207
Gillian Julius bracelet $335
and the linen is cool MZ Wallace
purse $395
Vince
sequin tunic $225
Boglioli
linen/cotton jacket
David Lerner
leggings $66
Sand
linen and cotton suit $795
Zanone
ice cotton polos $198
may not have fat wallets
To Boot New York Randall shoe $295
kilgore trout guidance
Etro
Italian neckwear from $145
tailoring kilgore trout Kilgore Trout
pure silk neckwear $95
but can still stay good lookin’...
Tateossian Façonnable
stripe knits $95 solids knits $80
cuff links from $150
Ermenegildo Zegna
all season suit $1995
Meltin’ Pot washed denim for him from $160
mix some old with the current... Wellensteyn London sommer coat $269
Trina Turk sun dress $316
The Art of Shaving ultimate smooth shave from $20
service kilgore trout
W. Kleinberg leather belts from $145
Catherine Malandrino cotton blouse $325
and you’ll feel brand new.
Quality and value, service and guidance, at every price point, in every climate. —The tune we’ve been humming for 33 years Kilgore Trout • Cleveland Ohio
Samuelsohn VK Nagrani hosiery from $28
“can’t wrinkle me” travel blazer $875
‘‘
footwear
For spring, our shoemakers have done some sole searching.’’
CLASSIC AND TIMELESS By JB Dunn, Kilgore Trout footwear buyer After what we all went through in 2009, everyone is looking for quality, value and longevity. For spring 2010 all of our footwear vendors have responded with phenomenal collections that embrace all of these characteristics. From Salvatore Ferragamo you can expect timeless Brogues and their classic Drivers. Driving shoes will be huge this spring and Kilgore Trout will offer them at price points accessible to every customer. Look for vintage cap toes from John Varvatos as well as great selections from his hip Chelsea collection. And new this year: Varvatos Star—very cool denim driven shoes that offer terrific value. This spring we will also expand our To Boot New York collection with eight different offerings. Here is where you’ll find everything from well priced dress shoes to great spring boots…and of course more drivers! Be sure not to miss the
Italian boat shoes from Pantofola d’Oro, literally interpreted as slippers of gold, that have taken the fashion world by storm. These shoes were a complete sell out this past fall throughout the entire country! Donald Pliner returns with brilliant colors. Look for his vibrant collection as well—you can’t miss it. And of course, we won’t forget those who’ve come to expect something special from Kilgore Trout. For the past decade Gravati handmade shoes from Italy have set the bar for all Kilgore Trout shoe collections, offering the finest in quality and style. If you want to treat yourself to something special, try on a pair of their Peccary Penny Loafers. They’re truly a treat for your feet! Quality, Value and Style: this is what you’ll find in the Kilgore Trout Spring footwear collection, and in all of the collections storewide.
WHAT’S HOT FOR SPRING 2010 URBAN SNEAKERS:
“They are constructed like a sneaker but they don’t necessarily look athletic.” —Javier Suarez, Ferragamo
BOAT SHOES:
According to Suarez, “We call it a driver’s boat sole because it looks like a driver but is designed for boating. It has the white sole so it doesn’t mark the deck and ridges to keep the water on the boat, not the shoes.”
RETRO:
“American retro is red hot. Colorful boat shoes from the 1980s are back in new combinations of materials, as are wingtips and cap toes.” —Paul Grangaard, Allen Edmonds
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MOCCASINS:
“Mine are doubledyed so there is one color inside and another outside, with contrast stitching to give more dimension to the shoes.” —Michael Toschi
WINGTIPS:
Explains Toschi, “[This is a] very Italian country gentleman look rather than city slicker. There is more of a humble sophistication now.”
LOAFERS:
The outsole of Cole Haan’s Air Caden Blind Penny is made of non-traditional EVA, a foam-like material that gives the shoe its flexibility and light weight. Other features include concealed Nike Air technology to provide extra heel cushioning.
‘‘
Fashion, philanthropy and fun are in store when fashion students and alumni of KSU's Fashion School host happy hour at Kilgore Trout. ’’
DRESS FOR SUCCESS Happy Hour and Clothing Drive Thursday, April 29th 5:30-8:00pm Join Kent State alumni, Dress for Success Cleveland advocates, Kilgore Trout clients and friends for fashion, philanthropy and fun. The Kent State Fashion School and Alumni Association join with the Student Fashion Organization and senior fashion students to host a clothing drive and reception to benefit Dress for Success Cleveland. Meet current students, learn what’s happening at KSU, and hear about the critical efforts of Dress for Success Cleveland. Featured speaker Tameka Ellington, an NTT Assistant Professor in the Fashion School and PhD candidate, will discuss her current research on self-esteem and self-efficacy of African American women and girls, as well as the relationship between self and appearance. “The topic of women, clothing and how having access to adequate clothing can increase women’s self-esteem and what they feel they are capable of accomplishing is essential to discuss in our community today. Many women are singly heading their households, and are in need of motivation and determination—feeling good about themselves and how they look can make all the difference."
Visit kilgoretrout.com or ksualumni.org to rsvp or to learn more.
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ASKFORUM Q:
I’m trying not to spend too much money on clothing, but most of my wardrobe is old or dated. What few things can I buy for spring to update my look? If you buy only one piece this season, make it a soft sportcoat. For 2010, sportcoats are slightly slimmer and less structured (some are totally unlined) with softer shoulders. Some styles feature technical details and inside pockets; others have knit insets and can be worn casually or as an outerwear piece. Bottom line, a soft sportcoat takes you anywhere, and ties together the rest of your wardrobe. Beyond that, you might want to buy a soft plaid shirt in pale purple or blue, a few new neckties (they’re a bit narrower this season and look great for business or partying), slim 5-pocket trousers (a departure from jeans) and new boat shoes. Now you’re good to go for spring 2010!
Q:
To avoid looking sloppy, make sure your jeans are slim but not tight and not dragging on the floor
In many circles, dark denim worn with a sportcoat, tie and dress shoes is a perfectly acceptable business look for all but the most formal occasions. Just make sure the jeans are slim but not tight, and a perfect length (not dragging on the floor, not rolled up). Rips, tears, whiskering and very light washes aren’t usually acceptable for business (and often look just plain silly!). Don’t forget to invest in a really good leather jeans belt that’s less formal than the ones you wear with suits. One caveat, however: Unless you’re the president of a large country, don’t assume it’s okay to show up in jeans. If you don’t know the dress code, it’s best to stick with a slim-cut suit—always elegant, fashionable and respectful.
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IMAGE BY DAMIAN SANDONE
The Wall Street Journal recently showed a photo of Russian President Dmitry Medvedev wearing jeans while meeting with President Obama. Is this appropriate? What kind of jeans work best in business situations?
ask forum
Q:
I’m spending so much money on premium denim! What’s the best way to care for these expensive jeans to make sure they last ? Denim should be cared for according to manufacturer directions, of course. But since washing can be harmful, try to limit laundering unless the denim is extremely dirty. In fact, several designers’ “raw” denim comes with instructions not to wash for at least six months since washing interferes with the process needed to “break them in.” After the requisite six months, wash the denim inside out in cold water (alone the first time since dark denim tends to bleed). After the first wash, it’s generally safe to wash them with like colors. Most women’s jeans can be washed more frequently, as long as they’re turned inside out in cold water. A final tip: lay your jeans flat to dry, the better to maintain their original color and wash. With designer denim care, as with many fine things in life, less is more.
Q:
The “it” jean for spring 2010 is the skinny fit, in washes from faded blue and white to super dark. The skinny jean is much easier to wear and more flattering (slimming) than you might think; what’s more, it transitions well from day to evening. When deciding which denim style to wear, consider both your body type and what you’re putting on top. If it’s one of this season’s flowy blouses, then you need to wear a narrow leg jean to complement it. With sexy sandals or tucked into a spring boot, your skinny jeans will make a bold fashion statement. On the other hand, bootcut or trouser jeans are best worn with a great heel of some sort. This look works best with a fitted top that comes in at the waist; when paired with a tailored blazer, it even works well for the office. Since jeans these days come in so many different rises, leg widths and washes, come into the store and we’ll help you sort out what works for you.
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IMAGE BY MICHAEL TAMMARO
I’m seeing women’s denim in various styles, from super-skinny dark washes to low-rise faded flares. What’s the “it” jean this season?
CONFIDENCE IS ALWAYS IN STYLE
KEEP IT OR TRASH IT
Clean your closet, free your soul… By Nick Ockert My closet was a puzzle of mismatched pieces, outdated styles and strange colors. I longed for a solution to the chaos, knowing that to simplify my closet would be to simplify my life. After much research (and experimentation), here are five foolproof criteria to follow: Wear. If it’s worn, frayed, faded, ripped or rippled (as some suits tend to be after too many dry cleanings), throw it out! Replenish. Replace the classics you still love (the perfect charcoal suit and navy blazer, white and blue oxford shirts, great jeans and khakis) but remember that styles evolve and today’s classics are not exactly the same as yesterday’s. Dormancy. If you haven’t worn it in two years, you’re probably not ever going to, so donate your inactive pieces to those in need. If you’re holding onto clothes that are outdated because you think these styles will come back, trust me: they won’t. We offer a complimentary closet cleaning service, and we’d be happy to send one of our trained associates to your home to help you make the tough decisions. Fit. If you’ve gained or lost a little weight, a good tailor might be able to help. But if you’ve changed more than a size, even a great tailor may not be enough. What’s more, expensive alterations might not be worth it, especially when you can find so much terrific new fashion in stores these days. Boredom. If your wardrobe is not exciting you, it’s not likely to excite anyone else, so add a few new pieces for a boost. To quote the writer Isaac Bashevis Singer, “What a strange power there is in clothing!” And what a strange and liberating power in an organized closet!
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IMAGE BY DAMIAN SANDONE
closet how-to
In a quandry and frozen with confusion by your outdated closet? We’ve got some tips on whether to
BE STUPID
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WELL SUITED
From textiles to technology, Ermenegildo Zegna’s got menswear covered. By William Kissel Italian clothier Ermenegildo Zegna had a breakthrough three years ago when it introduced the iJacket, a featherweight garment featuring a built-in touch control panel on the sleeve, allowing a man to interface with his iPod without ever removing it from his inside chest pocket. Called Smart Clothing technology, it paved the way for last year’s Solar jacket, which has a built-in solar cell to help keep your personal electronics perpetually charged. Now Zegna has gone even further with the introduction of Elements, the first jacket to automatically regulate your body temperature in all weather situations. If your only perception of Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) is as a suit maker, you might be surprised to know that this family-owned company, celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, has been on the cutting edge of fashion since its inception in 1910.
A FABRIC MAKER, A CLOTHING LABEL, A SHOE AND LEATHER GOODS BRAND, AND A PHILANTHROPIC ENTITY KNOWN FOR ITS TIRELESS EFFORTS ON BEHALF OF THE ENVIRONMENT, THE CONNECTION BETWEEN ALL THINGS ZEGNA IS THE COMPANY’S PREOCCUPATION WITH CREATIVITY AND TECHNOLOGY. 22 FORUM
CHECK OUT ZEGNA’S SPRING COLLECTION OF ELEGANTLY-STYLED SPORTSWEAR AND SUITS, MOST OF WHICH ARE REMARKABLY REMINISCENT OF THOSE WORN BY THE GATSBY GENERATION OF THE 1920S. This season Zegna’s textile team is particularly fond of “Crossover” fabrics made from divergent fiber sources, such as a proprietary blend of cashmere and cotton used to create what the company calls Cashco. “These two fibers are normally used for different seasons, climates and lifestyles. But we brought them together to create a soft and silky fabric that is both precious and sporty,” explains co-chief executive Gildo Zegna, a fourth generation clothier named for the company’s founder. Other Crossover fabrics are made from blends of silk, linen and wool to give a light and airy feeling to typically heavyweight Prince of Wales and other check patterns. Zegna says such cloths transcend seasons to greatly extend the life of one’s wardrobe, and are the result of 2,000 seasonal fabric experiments, only a handful of which ultimately end up in Zegna’s three signature clothing lines: Ermenegildo Zegna, Zegna Sport and Z Zegna. While fabric is Zegna’s history, suit making has become the family’s heritage. The generation currently running the business grew up, like their fathers and grandfathers, “eating bread and jackets,” as one Italian tailor described such an all-
consuming passion. Zegna first put its signature on tailored clothing in the 1960s and a decade later became a world leader in the field with the invention of made-to-measure, a half-machine/half-handmade hybrid style of custom suit making that is today offered by nearly every clothing brand in the world. At a time when designer brands like Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent were offering the same house style to every man wearing their suits, Zegna’s idea to let men select their own fabrics and details— in essence design their own suits— became a watershed moment for both Zegna and, subsequently, the entire menswear industry. eople think we are developing all these products to satisfy our own egos. But it’s really out of necessity,” says Anna Zegna, VP of worldwide communications, noting the importance of a global brand offering a full range of products and pricepoints in order to satisfy a variety of tastes and needs. That includes everything from $200 jeans and $395 sneakers to $5,000 limited edition alligator shoes and $20,000
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custom-made suits cut from the company’s own Vellus Aureum, a wool so rare there is only enough cloth to produce 20 suits. “We are using more luxurious materials and adding more hand make in our made-to-measure suits than we did in the past,” says Gildo. But that is not at the expense of the broader luxury consumer and the current economy that “demands we create more products that are more affordable,” he adds. Despite so much diversification, Zegna still makes some of the finest suits and sportcoats in the world. What’s more, because the company is vertically integrated (meaning it produces its own fabrics and the finished clothing made from them), prices are relatively reasonable. “It’s not just about good quality, but also innovation in style and, above all, a great fit,” explains Gildo, noting that Zegna’s goal has always been to offer a taste of Italian fashion without being too outspoken. “Any company capable of combining all three is at the top,” he says with a pause before adding: “We’re not yet at the top, but we’re certainly moving in that direction.”
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FABULOUS FAÇONNABLE Clothes with joie de vivre. By Karen Alberg Grossman
It all began in the south of France, in a small tailor shop on Nice’s Rue de Paradis. In 1950, with the French Riviera as his backdrop, Jean Goldberg created a family business based on the principles of style, quality and craftsmanship. Jean’s son Albert worked beside him, learning the craft of a Master Tailor. The Façonnable brand was born, its name derived from the French verb “façonner” (a way of doing) and the English word “fashionable;” its reputation grew thanks to numerous actors in search of evening wear during the Cannes Film Festival. After visiting Brooks Brothers boutiques in New York during the 1960s, Albert Goldberg invented his own vision of menswear, which led to the birth of a “SportChic” lifestyle, featuring fine fabrics in a rich color palette inspired by the Mediterranean. The brand is renowned for superior craftsmanship and an unwavering attention to detail. In 2007, Façonnable was acquired by M1 Group; its CEO Maher Mikati, an MBA with a
“WHAT I’D LIKE OUR CUSTOMERS TO FEEL WHEN WEARING OUR PRODUCT IS THAT THEY’VE BEEN TRANSPORTED TO THE FRENCH RIVIERA...”—MAHER MIKATI strong communications background, is now the acting brand manager. “I’ve personally been a Façonnable customer since the early ’90s, along with my father and uncle, who have always worn Façonnable. So I’m very familiar with the brand, its heritage and its hallmarks of modern classicism, color and effortless style.” According to Mikati, the three items a guy must have for spring 2010: iconic shirts in exclusive patterns, colorful pants and very light outerwear pieces. “In a sense, we’re not just in the business of making garments, we’re in the business of exporting a lifestyle, a way of life, a joie de vivre that is unique to the French Riviera.”
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DARK & DRESSY SUIT
KEY ITEMS YOU NEED TO LOOK YOUR BEST THIS SPRING
SPRING ESSENTIALS POWER JEANS
Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR Photography by DAMIAN SANDONE
FINE-GAUGE CASHMERE SWEATER
5-POCKET PANT
PRINTED SWIM TRUNK
CREASE RESISTANT TRAVEL BLAZER
WASHED PLAID SHORT THE BOAT SHOE
WASHED PLAID COTTON SPORTSHIRT TECHNICAL OUTERWEAR
WASHED COTTON KNITS
KNIT BLAZER COMFY WEEKEND WEAR
VINTAGE PREP
STANDOUT ACCESSORIES
MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES A S S I S TA N T: TA R A F E R R I H A I R A N D M A K E U P : A L B E RT O M A C H U C A ELLIS MCCREADIE: MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT J A M E S M AT H I E U : N E W Y O R K M O D E L M A N A G E M E N T B E N O I T: N E W Y O R K M O D E L M A N A G E M E N T
Update your wardrobe with touches of purple—rich, royal and ever remarkable. In suits, sweaters, shirts and accessories, Spring 2010 fashion is popping with purple.
PURPLE REIGNS
Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR Photography by MICHAEL TAMMARO
MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES ASSISTANT: TARA FERRI HAIR: LUKE BAKER FOR SEE MANAGEMENT MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS FOR SEE MANAGEMENT MODEL: RACHAEL SCOTT FOR MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT MODEL: ERIK ROCCA/FOR DNA MODEL MANAGEMENT JEWELRY BY ROBIN ROTENIER
spirits
“PARA TODO MAL, MEZCAL Y PARA TODO BIEN TAMBIEN.” FOR EVERYTHING BAD, MEZCAL, AND FOR EVERYTHING GOOD, TOO.
MARVELOUS MEZCALS
Tequila isn’t the only premium spirit South of the Border. By Robert Haynes-Peterson
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who like single malts, because it has a similar smoky nature,” Merino continues. Most mezcal is still handcrafted in small batches and cooked in underground ovens, adding a smoky, peaty complexity. Like tequilas, they can be aged (though for the most part they aren’t). “We have one of the few aged mezcals on the market,” says John Rexer, founder of Ilegal Mezcal. “The idea is to never bury the flavor of the agave.” Flavorful they are, cheap and harsh they don’t have to be. Premium and super-premium mezcals are entering the U.S. market at a surprising clip. Sombra ($50), part of the Classic and Vintage Artisanal Spirits portfolio, is an excellent place to start: Smoky and filling on the mouth, it’s rich like a single malt and crafted for sipping (as are most mezcals). When you’re ready to explore, hunt down Mijes Reposado ($65), a distinctive spicy, peaty spirit with iodine notes (that’s a good thing). If you insist on having a bug at the bottom of your bottle, Scorpion Mezcal is a high-quality product, boasting a remarkable Gran Reserva 7-Year-Old ($200) with, you guessed it, a scorpion resting at the bottom.
Sombra Mezcal, from Oaxaca, is a far cry from the wormsoaked hooch you thought was mezcal in college
I M A G E S C O U R T E S Y O F S O M B R A M E Z C A L / C L A S S I C A N D V I N TA G E A R T I S A N A L S P I R I T S
It took 10 long years, but you know your tequilas. You even know why Patron isn’t what it was a decade ago. But have you been paying attention to Mezcal, tequila’s hermano? Mezcal—that harsh stuff with the worm in it you got sick on in college—has cleaned up good and is ready for another look. “Mezcal is where tequila was several years ago, in terms of acceptance,” says Junior Merino, the Mexican-born “Liquid Chef” and the brains behind the delectable cocktail menus at Manhattan’s Macondo and Rayuela restaurants. In fact, tequila is a mezcal, albeit one restricted to a specific kind of agave (the Blue Weber) and three specific growing/distilling regions of Mexico. Mezcal, on the other hand, can use up to 25 or 30 varieties of the 300 types of agave growing in Mexico (impacting the nose and flavor profile), and originates in several regions (though much mezcal hails from the state of Oaxaca). “There’s even a mezcal, called raicilla, distilled in the tequila region,” says Merino. “Like the Super Tuscans, it’s a tequila style that doesn’t follow the rules set for what can be called ‘tequila.’” “I recommend mezcal to people
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world scene
ROYAL WELCOME
If a stark, modern high-rise hotel isn't your cup of tea, try The Goring. Quintessentially English, gently unconventional, and right around the corner from Buckingham Palace, the five-star Goring dates back to 1910 and is still owned and run by the same family. The charismatic staff wears bright blue or pink ties decorated with sheep and welcomes guests like old friends. The decor is magnificently traditional, the amenities state of the art. There's even a historical connection with the States: During World War I the hotel was headquarters for American officers stationed in London. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, The Goring isn't just a place to sleep, it's a lovely part of the London experience.
“The man who is tired of London is tired of life.”—Samuel Johnson By Donald Charles Richardson
MYSTERY TOUR
IMAGE COURTESY OF HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES
MODERN ENGLISH
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While Kensington Palace undergoes renovations this spring in preparation for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, the historic royal home will become "The Enchanted Palace," a unique experience combining fashion, live theatre and spectacle. Mysterious characters will lead visitors on a journey through the palace to learn its tales of love and hate, surprise and sadness, secrets and jealousy. In the magnificent state apartments, guests will encounter a series of installations featuring contemporary fashion by both leading and up-and-coming designers, inspired by the palace’s Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection.
Few countries can put on a show like England, where pageantry is a way of life. Naturally, uniforms are an integral part of the spectacle. And uniforms did much to inspire Savile Row tailoring, designed to make a man look classic and well-proportioned. Historically, well turned-out gentlemen around the world have looked to Savile Row for the style and structure of their suits. This year the legendary street is advocating natural shoulders, two-button jackets, double-breasted suits, flatfront trousers and patterns such as checks and plaids. Men who shop in America’s finest men’s stores can buy Savile Row-inspired suits right here in the U.S.
ANTIQUE FANCY
A pleasant stroll down historic Kensington Church Street offers the chance to visit over 60 antiques shops. Stop in at Rafferty & Walwyn Ltd. and discover a captivating collection of period English clocks from the 17th to 19th centuries crafted in mahogany, walnut, ebony, tortoiseshell, ormolu, brass, or marble. Ask the owners to let you chose one of six different songs to play on the fanciful musical bracket clock by Benjamin Barber when, on the hour, the windmill turns, lovers disappear behind a curtain and a drummer strikes the time. Right down the street, there's Michael German Antiques Ltd., where you'll find a striking collection of over 1,000 canes. A standout from 1880 has a tortoiseshell veneer shaft and an 18K gold handle inset with precious stones. Clocks and canes make wonderful gifts or souvenirs and (traveler's tip) if you buy one over 100 years old, you don't have to pay duty.
HAIR APPARENT
The tradition of British barbering goes back over two centuries. Today, the latest exponent of the craft bows politely to the institution while making a clear cut into the future. Murdock London Barbers and Gentleman's Grooming has three locations in the trendiest and most fashionable parts of the city. They offer the classic shave with badger brush, moustache and beard trims, and beard re-shaping as well as a conservative hair trim, manicure and shoe polishing. More than a staid British barbershop, these artists can also modernize your look with a contemporary haircut. Make it your first stop to improve for all those vacation photographs.
SCOTTISH LAIR
Future chief of the legendary Macdonald clan, Ranald Macdonald is also the captain of Boisdale of Belgravia, one of London's most memorable restaurants. You can savor a simple meal at the bar or dine lavishly on Scottish salmon, the game of the day, or grass-fed Aberdeen beef. There's an impressive wine list that ranges from Vina del Alba Albarino by the glass for ÂŁ5.75 to a 1999 Richebourg Gros Frere et Soeur for ÂŁ290 a bottle, along with superb clarets and ports, a separate whiskey list, and a dessert menu featuring roast Victorian plums. The Boisdale Cigar Terrace on the roof boasts cigars from all over the world (including 120 different sizes and vintages of Cuban cigars). To keep the aficionado comfortable, the lounge features cushions, sofas and armchairs in the traditional Macdonald tartan and cashmere blankets in Boisdale livery brought over especially from Scotland.
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behind the scenes
DOCUMENTING LIFE
Three generations of photographers, three different views of the world. By Karen Alberg Grossman
J Sandone speaks of his father (Anthony Joseph Sandone II) with tremendous reverence and affection. â&#x20AC;&#x153;His passion was always photography, from developing film in his basement during high school to surveillance photography during WWII to photographing presidents, from Truman and FDR to JFK and Ronald Reagan. It started as a hobby, but when he got the job as photographer for The Scranton Tribune/Scrantonian, it was the beginning of a 50-year
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AJSANDONEPHOTOGRAPHY.COM / DAMIANSANDONE.COM
career and a lifelong love affair.” From the first developing kit he received as a kid for Christmas, AJ seemed destined to follow in his father’s footsteps. “I took pictures for my high school newspaper and yearbook. I was good at it, so people would call me for outside work, which paid my way through college. Ultimately, I started a photography business in Scranton with a friend; we moved to NYC in 1975, sharing studio space with five other photographers and living on pizza and peanut butter... I finally got a break doing public service ads that led to fashion catalogs that led to advertising work. Then I bought my own studio in ’91.” o here we are, sitting in this fabulous midtown studio breakfasting on sausage and eggs prepared by AJ’s son Damian, also a photographer (he shot the Spring Essentials fashion in this issue) as well as an artist and a fisherman. While AJ is the essence of casual sophistication in an elegant half-zip sweater and impeccable Italian shoes, Damian’s wearing ripped jeans and a white T-shirt, the better to showcase his impressive tattoos. “But I clean up pretty well,” he explains. “I’ll go out in a woven shirt with a tie and jeans, kind of a preppy punk rock look.” AJ just sighs. “I remember watching my dad get dressed in the morning, seeing how handsome he looked in his suit and tie and hat. It’s something that’s stayed with me always…” Still, AJ has only praise for Damian as a photographer. “He went to the Art Institute in Philadelphia and has won awards for his drawings. He never formally studied photography but he learned like I learned. It’s in the blood.”
“IT’S NOT MECHANICS OR EQUIPMENT THAT MAKES A GREAT PHOTOGRAPHER; ANYONE CAN LEARN THE MECHANICS AND I TAKE GREAT PICTURES FROM MY IPHONE. IT’S MORE A CREATIVE EYE, AND A FEELING FROM INSIDE.”—AJ SANDONE III
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destinations
BECOME MORE DEEPLY IMMERSED IN A PLACE YOU’VE ALWAYS DREAMED OF VISITING.
CAUSE TRAVELING
Voluntourism gets a much-needed dose of fun. By Jillian Sprague
ervice trips have been trendy for a few years, so by now most people know that a “voluntour” offers the opportunity to give back all over the world. But with working Americans logging more hours than ever in a tough economy, all but the most selfless among us are craving fun when we finally get time off. Luckily, it’s no longer necessary to forego a good time when voluntouring. A new wave of trips has met the demand for service paired with the perfect amount of letting loose. Planeterra, a non-profit eco-tourism firm, recently added new “independent tours” to its roster, allowing travelers to combine four or more days of volunteer work with adventure activities, sightseeing and downtime. Says director Richard G. Edwards, “Our programs are designed with great care, so that everyone genuinely benefits while having fun learning about each other’s cultures.” Think of voluntourism as the chance to go somewhere you wouldn’t have gone otherwise, or to become more deeply immersed in a
place you’ve always dreamed of visiting. A senior-level business manager by day, Leslie Oman of Toronto had bigger dreams. “I made it a personal goal to see all of the New Seven Wonders of the World,” she says, “and I thought it would be great to combine my travels with volunteering all over the world.” The first spot on Oman’s list was Macchu Picchu, and after some research, she found an itinerary that provided the best of both worlds. “I was hoping to really learn about the culture when I visited. On most trips to Peru, you fly in, get on a bus, and by day two you’re already hiking the Inca Trail. Then you leave the next day. But on my trip, we worked for several days in an atrisk children’s center, then we went to a village in the Sacred Valley and stayed with a “village Mama,” helping with the crops and meal preparation. By the time I was hiking the Inca Trail, I had a deep understanding of the culture, history and struggles of the people of Peru.” If you don’t have a specific destination in mind, choose a voluntour that lets you follow your passion. Animal lovers can travel with
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Biosphere Expeditions to monitor wolf and lynx populations in the Tatra Mountains of Slovakia. More of a humanitarian? Asia Transpacific Journeys will send you to Myanmar, where you’ll make ceramic water filters that provide drinking water to underdeveloped parts of rural Asia. When you’ve had fun, explored your interests and done something to help those who really need it, you can feel good about yourself and return to the daily grind with renewed energy—and unforgettable memories.
The most rewarding experience in any destination is getting to know the local people, learning firsthand about their culture
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end page
He was the wrong man in the right clothes.
ITALIAN FLAIR
Effortless dressing never looked so good. By Beth Bernstein Before Paolo, I’d never met a guy whose suits, shirts and accessories were custom made. Since high school, I had dated a certain type: creative and soulful with a somewhat disheveled wardrobe to match. I finally realized these were not the kind of guys likely to commit to much beyond poetry readings. Paolo seemed perfect in every way. During our first dinner together, I noticed the small initials sewn into his suit jacket, the intricate enamel cuff links, the vintage watch and the beautiful eggplant silk tie. I was also falling in love with the sexy accent, the dry wit and the confidence with which he ordered dinner. Our next outing was casual—he showed up wearing Levi’s 501s and a T-shirt. Like many Italian-born men, he was able to pull it off effortlessly. What is it about Italian culture that allows men to care about fashion and grooming without stigma? “When I turned 17, my father presented me with a beautiful JaegerLeCoultre timepiece,” Paolo once told me. “We lived in Milan and many of the boys receive watches as graduation gifts.” In contrast, my American-born brothers received
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down payments for their first cars. Today, they still think that dressing for dinner means putting on a Gap sport shirt rather than a favorite football jersey. As our relationship evolved, I learned of Paolo’s penchant for mixing colors, for knowing the difference between cordovan and chocolate brown. He never got bored while I tried on clothes, making sure that the shoulders on a lambskin jacket fit me perfectly and that the leather was hand-stitched. For Paolo, it wasn’t about labels or impressing people. It was about personal style and an inherent ability to dress with a certain nonchalance. Ultimately, it was this nonchalance that did us in. Although he could easily commit to French cuffs, Paolo was no closer to making a commitment to me than the artistic types of my past had been. He was the wrong man in the right clothes. Still, I have hope. While American men I meet these days rarely dress as well as Paolo, I’m noticing more cashmere and custom tailoring than ever before. And that cute guy who just smiled at me? He’s wearing cuff links with his 501s. I’m smiling back.
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28450 Lorain Road
10 minutes from the Airport 5 minutes from Crocker Park
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celebrating
Style and Performance MARIANO RIVERA wears the new Kei Jacket