INSIDE LOOK: SUIT SECRETS REVEALED A FASHION EDUCATION
THE LUXE LIFE
CONTENTS 28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
FEATURES
FASHION
6 8 44 60
9 26 29 38 42 46
Twenty Something at Trout Fall Events Interview: More Than a Pretty Face Essay: My Father, Myself
The Education of Kilgore Trout Sebastien James, Shirtmaker Abstract Expression Factory Tour: AG Jeans Tailoring: Inside a Suit The Luxe Life
DEPARTMENTS 4 24 28 40 54 58 62 64
Welcome Letter Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her The Fashion Forum World Scene Travel: Magic Kingdom Food: Designers Dish At Your Service
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
BY WALLY NAYMON SHOPKEEPER
I may regret sharing this photo, but it’s especially fitting to include it in this issue as a reminder that at one time or another, we were all new kids on the block. I was just 19 when Diamond’s Men’s Store hired me as a stockboy and, unwittingly, introduced me to what would become my career and passion. A few years later, I modeled this very-60s satin dinner jacket for a Cleveland Tux ad, looking mature beyond my years but still wet behind the ears. Though my modeling career was short-lived and the pinky ring eventually went out of style, the idea of providing unhurried and uncommon service and building relationships based on trust and knowledgeable advice continued to grow. And thanks to patient mentors and great customers, I fell in love with the business of dressing guys to look and feel their best—and simply put, that’s what our profession is all about. Later in this magazine, you’ll read about our Twenty Somethings, a group of Kilgore Trout associates just beginning to make their mark while learning from our seasoned pros. These new faces, along with our more familiar ones, are introducing the art of modern dressing to a new generation of Kilgore Trout customers in both our men’s and women’s departments and helping us to offer a multi-generational shopping destination where young designers like Billy Reid and Strong Suit effortlessly share the racks with well-respected names like Ermenegildo Zegna, Etro and Samuelsohn. From the flappers of the Roaring ’20s to British Mods of the ’60s (the youth movements of their times), it’s the 20-somethings of the world who so often influence fashion and culture of an era. We look forward to seeing where this generation (my daughters included) takes us. If we’re lucky, they’ll run the world and I can return to being the stockboy.
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PHOTO MONTAGE: CHRISTOPHER HIXSON
welcome
Once a model, forever a stockboy
P E R F O R M A N C E .
C O L L E C T I O N .
S O F T .
kilgoretroutcleveland
#TwentySomethingAtTrout
Fresh ideas, wide-eyed optimism, offbeat humor and thinking outside the box define the young members of our staff. They have plenty to learn from our more seasoned pros—but they have something to teach as well. #FutureIsInGoodHands #Welcome
Alex Izant, men’s associate & buying assistant, aizant@kilgoretrout.com Cleveland to the core, shoe addict, Tribe fan, trend spotter, Ferrari-dreamer.
Alex has spent seven years in the clothing business—that’s over 25% of his life. After four years with a national chain, he was ready for our offer to join the Trout team last spring, and has focused on building our clientele of younger guys—and taking good care of our core clients. On days off, he’s wearing sneakers (from his significant collection), hanging out at Chautauqua, or planning a triple-header dream date: a visit to the West Side Market, followed by an Indians game, capped off by a great steak dinner at Red. #FashionIsConfidence #CLE #WearWhatYouLike #StrongSuit #AllAboutTheDetails #TribeTown #NewJobNewSuit #StreetStyle Chelsea Robbins, women’s associate & buying assistant, crobbins@kilgoretrout.com Univ. of St. Andrews UK, feminist, Laurel Grad, equestrian/trainer.
It seems just yesterday that Chelsea was our “Saturday Girl,” fresh from high school and helping in the women’s store. Now she is a student in her final year of an accelerated dual degree M.A. program in International Relations and Art History at the University of St. Andrews in Scotland. Chelsea spent three years contributing her fashion sense to Dont Walk, the U.K.’s most innovative and philanthropic student-run fashion show, and while in the U.K. she continues to assist Andrea with buying for our women’s shop. Chelsea looks forward being in the store during the holiday season, and again when she finishes school next April. #MixItUp #Wear360Sweaters #LoveLuxe #FashionMatters Chrissy Stone, women’s associate, cstone@kilgoretrout.com Dog and cat lover, New Yorker, local underground music, former gymnastics coach, Go KSU!
Chrissy arrived as a summer intern, and we invited her to stick around! She’s just nine months away from a Fashion Merchandising B.S. at Kent State University (the #2 program of its kind in the U.S.), and has an acumen for customer service and fashion. “Working with an independent retailer has given me opportunities that a chain couldn’t,” explains Chrissy. “I especially connected with the store’s mission of unhurried and uncommon service.” After graduation, she’s looking forward to a career in styling and visuals for a fashion magazine. #YoungAndFresh #TwentySomethingStyles #Rag&Bone Gianmarco Rinaldi, merchandise coordinator American, Canadian, bizarre food eater, electronic/chill listener, Montrealer.
You may not see Marco on the selling floor (yet), but that’s because his passion is learning the business from the inside out. He’s the heartbeat of the store: responsible for efficiently ordering, receiving and coordinating all merchandise between our vendors, the selling floor and our customer. An Ohioan through and through, but with Italian heritage and a Montrealer’s mentality (dual citizenship and a month in Quebec each year will do that to a guy), Marco is our resident conundrum. Like his other-motherland to the north, his outlook combines an old-world mentality with artistic and social freedom, dressed in a Billy Reid shirt, Gardeur jeans and Walk-Over boots. #DapperYoungGent #BillyReid #StyleGuys #Gardeur #WearWhatYouLike #LaceYourWalkOvers
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f i n e s w e d i s h s h i rt m a k e r s i n c e
in store
Fall Events SEPTEMBER 12 AND 13 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
OCTOBER 10 AND 11 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MADE-TO-MEASURE
CANALI MADE-TO-MEASURE
Andrea Stringhini, our made-to-measure specialist from Ermenegildo Zegna, will be in store to introduce the latest collection of fabrics for fall. We will also offer an extensive collection of samples for suits, jackets, shirts and knitwear, plus an enhanced selection of the Z Zegna collection. Call or email your sales consultant to set your personalized appointment. (*Single Trout Club points apply.)
Receive a $200 Kilgore Trout gift card with your order of suit or sportcoat/trouser combination, or a $125 gift card with your sportcoat order. Schedule a consultation with Canali specialist Peter Belci. (Gift card may not be used toward Canali purchase.)
MORE EVENTS TO BE ANNOUNCED Subscribe to email updates at kilgoretrout.com, and like us at facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland.
SEPTEMBER 26 AND 27 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
SAMUELSOHN MADE-TO-MEASURE, W. KLEINBERG, NEW ENGLAND SHIRT CO.
Kilgore Trout is located at Eton Chagrin Boulevard— Cleveland’s finest shopping destination—just a half-mile east of Interstate 271/Chagrin Boulevard exit.
Save 10% on your Samuelsohn made-to-measure order. Dorian Anderson will be in store with the new fall swatches from Samuelsohn, plus New England Shirts, W. Kleinberg’s luxury leather accessory collection, and the latest footwear from Magnanni. (Order must be placed at event. *Single Trout Club points.)
28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-8
SEPTEMBER 2 TO OCTOBER 8
EARN DOUBLE TROUT CLUB POINTS! For a limited time, you’ll earn TWO Trout Club points for every $1 in merchandise purchases*. That’s a $100 reward to use later for every $1,000 you spend now. Your reward dollars will spend like cash during redemption periods. (*Restrictions apply. See store or kilgoretrout.com for full details and to enroll in Trout Club.)
WHEN YOU NEED US, WE’RE HERE. CONTACT US ANYTIME AT 216.831.0488, OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT DIRECTLY: Wally Joel Cheryl Paula
wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com pbradley@kilgoretrout.com
Alex Andrea Laura Chelsea
aizant@kilgoretrout.com anaymon@kilgoretrout.com lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com crobbins@kilgoretrout.com
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Sandy shossack@kilgoretrout.com Dale dnichols@kilgoretrout.com Chrissy cstone@kilgoretrout.com
–new resource–
–new resource–
–new resource–
ART DIRECTION & STYLING | CHRISTOPHER HIXSON ADDITIONAL STYLING | GIANMARCO RINALDI PHOTOGRAPHY | JIM MARTIN POST-PRODUCTION | MIKE STEINER
–new resource–
wool zip-up hoodie, two pocket work shirt and corded jeans
cashmere sweatshirts and hoodies in great new washes and colors
–new resource–
Commander hooded parka, Pria cashmere scarf
Hyridge jacket
FALL 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Probably not. Although menswear is evolution rather than revolution, suits that are more than five years old, even from the best makers, will definitely look dated: trousers too long and baggy, jackets too roomy, shoulders too padded. Designers have gradually gone slimmer in suits, sportcoats and trousers, and fabrics have evolved so that today’s suits are more comfortable and travel-friendly than the old stuff in your closet. We’re betting you’ll find our fall ’14 suits so comfortable that you’ll choose to wear them in more casual settings, even when no suit is required.
Q:
Is it okay to text or email my sales associate when I have a wardrobe question? How can I maximize our relationship? Not only is it okay, but they would totally appreciate it! (Well maybe not at 3:00 a.m…) Our sales people have a wealth of information that can help you look your best every day. They can email you photos of new items as they arrive in store that will work with what you’ve already bought. They can inform you about the bestfitting jeans. They can help you
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Q:
I see that a lot of my favorite brands have their own stores: do you carry the same styles that they do? Sometimes there’s crossover, but we try to customize our mix to the needs of our community. While fashion has become somewhat international, our buyers know their customers personally so it’s easy for them to fine-tune assortments to specific tastes and lifestyles. Another advantage of shopping an independent store: since we carry so many top brands, we can suggest how to mix your favorite pieces so you’re not dressed head-to-toe in a single designer. This type of brandblending adds creativity and personality to your look so you won’t see yourself coming and going. Stop by and we’ll show you how to do it!
COURTESY OF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Q:
Other than for weddings and special events, I don’t wear suits much these days. Is it okay to pull out what’s in my closet for occasional dress-up events?
match colors and patterns or figure out which tie to wear with which shirt collar. (For example, your new skinny tie is not likely to work with a cutaway collar shirt, but yes, you can wear the brown suede shoes with your gray suit!) They can also suggest the perfect gift, wrap it and send it without you needing to leave your desk. Never be afraid to contact your sales associate for any fashion-related issue: their passion for fine clothing is the reason they chose this career, and your trust in them is the ultimate compliment.
SEBASTIEN JAMES, SHIRTMAKER
Understatement can sometimes be the biggest statement of all. Our new Sebastien James shirts are handcrafted by a third-generation factory in Barcelona, by tailors who are experts at their craft—each possessing a sharp eye for detail and the soul of an artisan—and some of whom have worked in the factory for over 45 years. The iconic men’s line reflects its founder’s deep aesthetic convictions, as well as the mathematical rigor he brings to constructing every detail of every shirt. A Sebastien James shirt is more than meets the eye—though what meets the eye is stunning. Whether it’s the way a sleeve’s pattern aligns perfectly at the seam or the subtle but memorable detailing under the collar, each shirt is a collection of design elements that reveal themselves with each successive look.
STYLING: GIANMARCO RINALDI
Kilgore Trout is proud to bring you Sebastien James—a collection in which fine details turn classic into contemporary.
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . A N D J E A N S
Q:
How can I layer knits and still maintain a streamlined silhouette?
Knit dressing is one of our favorite looks for fall. It’s something a lot of people can relate to because it works for so many different lifestyles. It’s all about finding the right proportions for your body. The first step is to make sure everything fits well: nothing too loose or bulky. Generally the base layer should be a lighter weight than the top garments. Stick to the same color family, but mix up the look with varying textures. It’s best to keep chunkier items on the outer layer in the form of a cardigan or a scarf. Speaking of texture: come into Kilgore Trout to check out new mixedmedia pieces from Vince and Quinn. The leather and cashmere combinations featured in their fall jackets go with almost anything, taking the guesswork out of layering. Pair these pieces with a silk Equipment blouse, top with a knit scarf, and you’ll be perfectly layered for fall!
Q:
I want to invest in an updated outerwear piece. What should I look for?
The oversized coat will be huge this season (pun intended). We love a silhouette that comes slightly away from the body and features a gently rounded or raglan shoulder. Try this shape in an unexpected blue or red from Elizabeth and James or Vince. Both brands made gorgeous
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coats in luxe fabrics for the season. Some women are afraid they’ll be dwarfed by these oversized pieces, and it’s true that you can often go down a size or two from what you normally wear. If you’re on the shorter side, consider trying this trend in a slimmer, less bulky fabric. It also helps if you keep your outfit slim underneath; try a skinny pant and a fitted sweater or a streamlined dress. On the sporty side, new puffer styles from Herno come away from the body. These also pair well with skinny pants and jeans, offering that on-trend shape while still being warm and functional.
Q:
I love how comfortable my boyfriend jeans are. How can I transition them from summer to fall?
Boyfriend jeans will continue to be popular for the upcoming season. Updated versions with a slightly slimmer leg (often called relaxed skinny or slim boyfriend) pair perfectly with ankle booties for a chic fall look. Look out for styles from favorites like Citizens of Humanity and DL1961. Plus, we are very excited to introduce Henry & Belle, a denim line from Chicago with a strong philanthropic commitment. These tailored boyfriend jeans pair perfectly with detailed sweaters from brands like 360 Sweater and Rag & Bone. Top the outfit off with a leather jacket or vest for a comfortable, trendy fall look.
COURTESY OF HERNO
FORUM
FALL 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HER
ART DIRECTION & STYLING | CHRISTOPHER HIXSON ADDITIONAL STYLING | GIANMARCO RINALDI PHOTOGRAPHY | JIM MARTIN POST-PRODUCTION | MIKE STEINER
KILGORE TROUT ’S CURATED SELECTIONS FOR FALL
Pashma sweater/scarf, Quinn asymmetric leather jacket
Vince shawl-collar cloth coat | Citizens of Humanity silkscreened jeans | Gigi clutch in maroon
Rag & Bone Cammie sweater coat | Citizens of Humanity 100% cashmere sweaters and Breyson suedette stretch jeans
Elizabeth and James leopard print suit | Majestic glen plaid sweater | Gigi Clutch
Fuzzi velvet dress | Ashley B bouclé coat
Fuzzi multi floral dress
Herno quilted goose down jacket
Doma leather motorcycle jacket | Doma wool coat with quilted leather sleeves and hoodie
Vince tan leather jacket | SOH wool cardigan | Citizens of Humanity waxed jean
factory tour
We, along with other stores in the Forum Group, recently visited their state-of-the-art LA facility to gain some insight. In the beginning, AG owner Mr. Ku created, designed and engineered the technology-driven factory himself. To call him a perfectionist is an understatement: those who know him well say he’s a genius. A few examples: Ku recently replaced all AG washing machines in order to save significantly on water and electricity. The new machines use only 40 percent of the water and electricity of the old ones, while doubling capacity. The water purification system is so advanced that you can virtually drink the water! Sewing machines were reconfigured with special feeders so that the tension on the thread remains perfectly constant from beginning to end of the sew. Needles (angled so they never tear the fabric) are replaced daily, rather than weekly, which is the norm at other factories. An average pair of AG jeans is touched by 75 pairs of hands; aged jeans by 100. Fabric is allowed to rest for 24 hours after it’s rolled out (modern stretch fabrics need this recovery time); it’s then laser cut 40 layers high, rather than 100. These extra steps might not be immedi“AG’S EXCLUSIVE ately appreciated by the consumer, but TECHNOLOGY SERVES TO CREATE they ultimately make for a better-looking A BETTER PRODUCT, and more comfortable garment, not to mention a safer planet. AND A BETTER There are 25 artists in AG’s design PLANET.” department, under the direction of Mark Wiesmayr. “The fabric is precursor to the jean,” he tells the group. “A good 90 percent of our fabrics are proprietary that we develop with the mills, mostly in Japan. (Our inventory here is 1.2 million yards.) We use some American denim and only the finest components like Italian hardware and findings and YKK zippers, manufactured to the exact size and fit of each jean model.” Wiesmayr lists three criteria consumers use to judge jeans before purchasing: the look, the touch and the fit. “Then for repeat purchases, they judge by performance after wearing and washing. This is why testing is such a huge part of our process. Bleaching can cause denim to lose tensile strength, One does not gain a reputation as the “world’s best denim as can abrasive stonewashing, so we’re using some advanced manufacturer” or the “world’s best-fitting jean” by accilaser techniques. We also test for color consistency, shrinkdent. Nor does one invest in a mirror-image second factory age, etc. There are 52 quality control checks in the process.” if business is not booming in the first. AG’s 480,000-sq.-ft. As if his engineering expertise were not enough, Mr. Ku is LA facility produces about 50,000 pairs of jeans weekly! Its also a scratch golfer; he’s recently created a golf collection new 470,000-sq.-ft. facility employing 1,200 people in centhat’s already in demand at country clubs and pro shops. But tral Mexico will produce about the same number. his heart remains in denim, in creating a better product, and How did AG, in just over a decade, grow to this stature? a better planet, for generations of AG wearers to come.
AG Jeans:
The Art of Denim
TOTALLY ECO-FRIENDLY AND STATE OF THE ART, AG COMBINES NEW TECHNOLOGY WITH OLDWORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP FOR VIRTUALLY PERFECT JEANS! BY WALLY NAYMON
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the FASHION forum PITTI PARTY
T
wice a year, the Tuscan city of Florence, Italy welcomes 1,050 exhibitors and more than 30,000 national and international fashion industry insiders to Pitti Uomo, a trade show like no other. Staged in a 16th-century fortress, Pitti is a place to see and be seen: a promenade affectionately known as Peacock Avenue is packed with men dressed to the nines, fervently followed by an equally impressive number of photographers from magazines and websites worldwide. Espresso is sipped in equal measure to bottles of Italian beer and the quintessential cocktail, an Aperol Spritz. At the most recent Pitti showcasing spring ’15 fashion, the world-renowned tenor Andrea Bocelli kicked the show off with an exclusive one-night performance with the Cameristi del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino that included an emotive rendition of Schubert’s Ave Maria. The next morning the Prime Minister of Italy officially opened the show, followed by a whirlwind of fashion shows and festas. These included a Gucci museum cocktail party, a Z Zegna performance replete with acrobats and models, an Eton garden party at the Grand Hotel Villa Medici, a Brunello Cucinelli dinner at Il Giardino Torrigiani and an Ermanno Scervino presentation at the Forte Belvedere (where Kim Kardashian and Kanye West held their nuptials) with guests including... Kanye West! Should you ever find yourself in Florence during this celebration of style, soak it all in. It’s one of the sartorial wonders of the — William Buckley world.
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LOOKING GOOD What do women want? To answer the age-old question, we surveyed 100 women and asked them to prioritize what they notice first in terms of male appearance. Not surprisingly, trumped only by good grooming and a great smile, women pay attention to what guys wear. Clearly, good clothes speak volumes about a man, followed closely by (in order of priority) his eyes, his shoes and his watch. To the question “I would immediately fall in love with a guy wearing ___ because ___,” we got some terrific responses. A lot of women mentioned “nice shoes” because “they indicate good taste.” “A gorgeous sportcoat” because “it exudes confidence, charm and casual sophistication…” “A cashmere sweater” because “it shows he’s able to care for something delicate and valuable: today a sweater, tomorrow a woman…” “Great smelling aftershave or cologne...” “Upscale casual clothes” because “it shows he’s relaxed and comfortable with himself…” And perhaps our favorite: “Anything that looks like he put some thought into it!” Because “dressing well is an indicator of self-confidence and a display of respect for colleagues and friends. If he puts thought into his appearance, one can assume he’ll put thought into his work and his relationships…” Time to go shopping! — Nora McCarten
SPRING ’15 FORECAST
J
BRIGHT EYED
ust because summer is over doesn’t mean you should ignore your eyewear. For men this fall, the Vision Council’s Eyecessorize industry report defines the major trends as simple, clean-cut square and circular shapes, colored lenses in standout shades of green and blue, and metallic and patterned accents on the bridge and arms. In addition, Eyecessorize also forecasts an increased popularity in colored frames that offer a welcome break from the standard black and tortoise options. These new takes on classic eyewear will keep you seeing the bright side all year long. — NoraMcCarten
We interviewed Sabine Le Chatelier, of Premiere Vision (the world’s leading fabric trade show) for her take on men’s spring fashion. Here’s what to expect when the weather warms up: “According to the top fabric mills, suiting fabrics will have a more casual feel for spring ’15, a trend that will influence all categories of menswear. Fabrics will feature more synthetics in the blend, creating a somewhat lustrous finish: not exactly shiny but technicalinspired in a contemporary way. Lighter colors are taking hold in suits and sportcoats: cool tones like pale grays and shades of blue. There’s also a strong linen trend in suits, but very sophisticated, a clear departure from the soft crinkled linens of yesterday. The new linens are blended with cotton or wool for a fresh modern look with a rustic touch. “In ties, expect more non-silk styles that reinforce the casual message. In sportswear, you’ll see new sophisticated knit tops in luxury yarns, fashioned into slim T-shirts and polos that work under a suit or sportcoat. And don’t be afraid to wear prints, even florals: these are what will separate the men from the boys…” — Karen Alberg Grossman
STYLISH READS 20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Apparel Ads by Jim Heimann and Alison A. Nieder is an eyecatching retrospective of the milestones that shaped the world’s style. Creative imagery of 400 fashion advertisements from the 1900s forms a timeline of the trendsetting looks that defined the century. With text in English, French and German, 20th Century Fashion documents the inception of revered brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein and follows their development as exemplified by their ads. As the years (and the book) progress, a fullpage visual captures the mood of each decade. The beauty and individuality of the advertisements display the overarching advancements in art, print, photography and clothing designs made in the last century. Men in This Town by Giuseppe Santamaria is a uniquely presented portrayal of the modern man’s sartorial style. Through interviews and observations, Santamaria allows us to get to know a variety of creatively dressed men in their natural habitats, from New York, London and Milan to Tokyo and Sydney. Candid street shots capture the eccentric and intriguing trends of each region, taking us on a journey across the globe to explore how each culture’s traditions impact the way men dress. The Glass of Fashion, a memoir by Cecil Beaton, shares a man’s muses, influences and encounters in the 1920s fashion world. As a portraitist and photographer of fashion’s top-notch names, Beaton became famous for his impeccable taste and discerning eye. He tells how his experiences with the luxurious likes of Dior and Chanel combined with his personal realities to sculpt his view on fashion and life. First published in 1954, The Glass of Fashion is back on the rack to inspire a new generation of fashionistas. — Louisa Blasier
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tailoring
Exceptional Interlinings Zegna suits are full-canvas and made with the best interlinings in the world. This allows the jacket to lay beautifully against your body and ensures longevity.
Superior Production
Quality Buttons
In all, 500 hands from the familyowned, vertically integrated company contribute to the making of each suit, from acquiring the wool to weaving the innovative fabrics to the final finishing work on your barchetta breast pocket.
Buttons are made of highquality Corozo, genuine horn or mother of pearl and color coated in-house to perfectly match the hue of your garment.
LUXURY SUIT CONSTRUCTION
Modern Fit
Fine Fabric
The slightly shorter jacket and a softer, more sculpted silhouette will make you look and feel like a million bucks.
The fine wool fabric “breathes,” so it’s cool and comfortable even in overheated office buildings.
Inside a Suit
At first glance, these two dark gray suit jackets appear to be similar. But take a closer look (or feel) and you’ll quickly see that color is the only thing they have in common. The jacket on the left is made by Ermenegildo Zegna, produced in its European factories from one of its proprietary high-performance fabrics. On the right is a scratchy, boxy bargain version, available at a national menswear chain famous for its price-slashing promotions. Sure, you can get three for under $500… but you get what you pay for.
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Poor Fit Stiff shoulders and a full, boxy cut look unnatural and out of date. You deserve better!
Uncomfortable Low armholes make moving uncomfortable: every time you lift your arms, the entire body of your jacket lifts with you.
Inferior Fabric Generic, utilitarian fabric is rough and wrinkles easily.
IMAGES BY BRIAN KLUTCH, JACKET COURTESY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, PRODUCTION ASSISTANT SHYAM PATEL, SPECIAL THANKS TO TIM PAIT
BARGAIN SUIT CONSTRUCTION
Cheap Interlinings Shoddy inner workings are glued into the suit, so after only a few cleanings, the glue will begin to wear down and come through the fabric in unsightly patches.
In a spoof that aired earlier this year on SNL, comedian Vanessa Bayer suggested that “affordable and absorbent” suits from this national chain were better suited to wiping spills and soaking up bacon grease. Because of the chain’s “innovative buy-one-get-three-free pricing,” she explains, “they’re effectively cheaper than paper towels” and “I can feel good about throwing them away when I’m done.” We cringe at the idea of a disposable wardrobe and prefer to invest in classic clothing that’s made to last. Come into the store and see for yourself why top-quality tailoring is the obvious choice.
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interview
Dreadlocked model Morgan O’Connor is pretty much a normal teenager. His passions are surfing, sailing and music (he plays the guitar and sings). He doesn’t, at the moment, have a girlfriend. He loves classic rock, especially the Rolling Stones. He tries to eat healthy (kale, avocado, spinach, egg whites, fish) and get to the gym. He hopes to return to college to study advertising and marketing but at the moment, he’s focused on his modeling career. And who can blame him? He recently signed with the Ford agency and just happens to be the new face of classic American fashion for Polo Ralph Lauren. “It was kind of a fluke,” he explains of his entrée into modeling. “I was sitting in a restaurant in Newport R.I. and one of Ralph’s people spotted me. I was wearing Polo because that’s what I wear: I went to boarding school so I’ve worn a tie every day since I was 11 years old. But it was the unexpected combination of classic clothes with dreadlocks that apparently caught their attention…” And about those dreadlocks, O’Connor says this too was an accident. “I always had long curly hair and it’s always been a pain. Two years ago I walked into a salon in Palm Beach (where I live) and the stylist had a boyfriend with dreads so she suggested I try it. My hair wasn’t real long at the time but two years later, this is what it’s become. It’s supposed to be easy to maintain but since I wash it a lot (counter to experts’ advice), it tends to get twisted… But the hardest part for me was hiding it from my grandma!” Interestingly, O’Connor’s mom, a model in the 1980s, was not totally thrilled about his new endeavor. “She was a little nervous,” he confides. “But she’s the one who makes sure my life is balanced and meaningful. She recently introduced me to CEPIA, a nonprofit organization in Costa Rica that strives to improve the lives of infants and children. I was going to Costa Rica on vacation and my mother made me bring a few bags of children’s clothing. Now I’m very involved with this group: I give the kids surfing lessons and try to help them in any way I can… It’s heartbreaking to see how little they have yet how much they appreciate life!” Surprisingly unspoiled, O’Connor is still surprised when he gets recognized on the street. “And I was shocked when I saw myself in the Italian edition of GQ: I knew I did the photo shoot but I wasn’t certain they would use it. When the issue came out I just couldn’t believe I was in it!” Though he hasn’t yet had a personal conversation with Ralph Lauren, he looks forward to doing so. “During a recent showroom event for important editors, I was one of about 60 models in the room when Ralph came in. He circled the models and at one point, he actually tapped me on the shoulder. It might not sound like a big deal but to me, it was huge!”
More Than a Pretty Face THOUGH JUST 18, RALPH LAUREN’S NEW MODEL IS OUT TO CHANGE THE WORLD. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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FALL 2014
MADE WITH PRIDE IN CANADA.
the LUXE LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY & WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY
VINTAGE FLAIR
SUBTLE BOLDNESS
SIMPLE ELEGANCE
world scene
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries. BALLET BECOMES YOU
Ballet Hispanico is the foremost Latino dance company in the United States. This dazzling young group of wonderfully talented dancers, with a repertoire of over 100 works, creates a brilliant theatrical experience performed to sold-out audiences in America, Europe and South America. “We combine the artistry, technique and physicality of the dancers and imbue ballet with contemporary and Spanish dance,” explains artistic director Eduardo Vilaro. “It’s the passion of the Latino world.” In 2015, Ballet Hispanico will be appearing across the country in cities including Chicago, New York and Washington D.C. To get the insider experience, sign on as a Patron: you’ll meet the dancers, watch rehearsals and even travel with the company.
Near the markets and not far from the Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech, secluded on a quiet, narrow street, a modest door opens to an elaborate atrium lined with balconies in rich wood. A former 19th-century palace, the Riad Ayadina is a mixture of light and shadows, cozy nooks and open spaces. The three rooms and six suites have four-poster beds (strewn with rose petals to celebrate your arrival) and copper baths. There’s a swimming pool, hot tub and a spa offering massages, facials and a traditional Moroccan Hammam bath. The charming French owner oversees accommodations and personally arranges the lavish menus. Have breakfast on the roof terrace with views over the old city into the mountains, and dine by candlelight on a three-course fusion of French and Moroccan cuisine in your own private courtyard.
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TOP: COURTESY OF EDUARDO PATINO
ROYAL RETREAT
THIS DESK IS YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND
NEED A LIFT? Davos, Switzerland is the highest city in Europe, home to the amazing Parsenn Mountain (a favorite of freestylers and snowboarders), and nearby, the new InterContinental Davos. This opulent hotel with a unique golden egg design by Oikos has spacious rooms, each with a balcony overlooking Davos and the mountains. There are three restaurants (at the Capricorn, an alpine brasserie, culinary director Alex Kroll has created a surprisingly delicious hay soup, featuring a Champagne/white wine base and hay grown at or above 2,000 meters). The Alpine Spa uses La Prairie products and indigenous herbs.
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If you work hard at your desk, it might be time to choose one that works as hard as you do. Incorporating the principle that human beings feel better when they move around periodically, the Stir Kinetic Desk can “learn” your habits and remind you when it’s time to change positions. It can be programmed with your standing and sitting height preferences (a simple double tap will move it up or down), and can even sense and track your standing time and the calories burned while you’re on your feet. Plus it’s WiFi and Bluetooth enabled. Now sit. Good desk.
travel
THE CHARMS OF BHUTAN ARE NOT WHAT YOU’D THINK. By Andrew Isaacs
MAGIC KINGDOM we would never think that way…” In one town, installing a traffic light to replace the crossing guard caused such an uproar that the signal was removed, the guard reinstated. Plan for low-impact hikes along a river’s edge rather than intense rock- or mountain-climbing, considered disrespectful to the mountain. Plan to experience a society based on caring for one another, one with minimal stratification, with equal access to education and health care. Plan to meet gentle people in traditional garb who will reinforce your belief in human kindness. Getting there is tough: there’s one airline with infrequent flights. And the food is just okay. But you don’t go to Bhutan for such superficial pursuits; you go for a cultural and spiritual experience unlike any you’ve known. For more info, contact Aman (the Sanskirt word for peace) Resorts, with beautiful lodges across the country. They will customize a trip to meet your needs and fulfill your dreams.
The sole surviving Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom, Bhutan is a tiny land of big surprises. Instead of GDP, they believe in GNH: gross national happiness. Cut off from the rest of the world until the 1960s, this remote, pristine nation has recently opened its doors to civilization. But just a crack. Still, it is said there’s been more change in Bhutan during these past eight years (cell phones, satellite TV, tourists!) than there had been in the past 800. Observing the havoc wreaked by industrialization (and Western materialism) in neighboring India and China, Bhutan clings tightly to its Buddhist identity, and to the values its people have treasured for centuries. Still 80 percent agricultural, neighbors help neighbors in the fields. Traveling from town to town with our driver and a guide, we were told that the oldest daughter inherits the family house and farm. “I feel sorry for the younger daughters,” I quipped, trying to be clever. “Oh no, it’s not like that,” my guide explained. “We don’t chase wealth;
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Pictured on previous page: The “Bird’s Nest” is one of Bhutan’s holiest temples and a cultural icon.
“I expected to love the majestic views, the peaceful hikes, the Buddhist temples. But what I most adored was the people, their culture, the integrity of their lives.” FAST FACTS ON BHUTAN History: Was a collection of warring fiefdoms until the early 17th century, when unifed by a leader fleeing religious persecution in Tibet. Location: Between the Tibetan Plateau and India. Size: 46,500 square kilometers. Population: 970,000. Topography: From 23,000-foot-high peaks in the north to low-lying plains and deep valleys separated by high mountain passes. Government: In 2008, transitioned from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy; held its first election. Religion: Vajrayana Buddhism, Hinduism. The Pharrell Factor: In 2006, Business Week rated Bhutan the happiest country in Asia.
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esssay
My Father, Myself BY LENOR ROMANO My mother gave up shopping for me by the time I was five. She gave up shopping with me at seven. Was it because I was so skinny that I had to buy boys’ slim pants? Or that I embarrassed her, demanding the stars-and-stripes bell bottom jumpsuit that she considered blasphemous? Shopping for me became my father’s job. Yes! Very cool! The man had no patience, so I always got what I wanted just to get us out of the store. By age 11 I could no longer find what I dreamt of in the young junior department, so I took to designing my own clothes. Snakeskin mini skirts, faux pony midis, leopard fur vests... Fortunately I had an aunt who was a professional seamstress and could fulfill my desires. My dad maintained his role as my personal shopper for expensive things like boots and bags. (We’re talking Granny boots that tied up to the knee, green suede boots with fourinch platforms, a red vinyl raincoat, a leather hoodie...) He had great taste, priding himself on always looking “smart.” In the ’70s, he also had a friend at Botany 500 and was a perfect 40 regular—right off the rack. There were a few years when he gained weight in an attempt to quit smoking, but that was shortlived: he was more concerned about his wardrobe than his health. During college I had a summer job as a “swatch boy” at Cross Country Clothes. The man I worked for was more interested in skirts than suits. I fended him off politely until September, then told him off. I was just 18. I still managed to get my dad a few samples. Sadly, I recently had the distinction of helping my mother select my father’s final outfit. The suit was easy: there were lots to choose from, though he hadn’t worn one in a long
time. The tie was next. His drawer opened with a smell of wood and what I imagined was his Noxzema shaving cream. I knew his ties well: the Countess Mara ones he was so proud of, the rich madder silks. Then I saw his favorite, a deep barn red, but it had stains on it, rendering it unusable. (He was meticulous about his appearance; I wondered why he had kept it.) I dug deeper into his tie drawer, finding wide ties, skinny ties, knit ties... a lifetime of sartorial memories. I selected a paisley, rich in amber, ocher and plum. During his final years, I’d made it a point to tell him how much I loved him. I gave him a card with of all his favorite expressions typed across it in different colors and fonts. He studied it for awhile, and then exclaimed “This is all true!” I gently reminded him that these were his words, the words he taught me to live by. They’ve served me well.
“MY DAD WAS MORE CONCERNED ABOUT HIS WARDROBE THAN HIS HEALTH.”
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food
SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER OF ETON
LOETJE, AMSTERDAM “At Loetje, I always order the tenderloin with fries. I really enjoy cooking simple things, so at home it is most likely a pasta with fresh ingredients from the market.”
GIANLUCA ISAIA
GENNARINO ESPOSITO, NAPLES “I love to cook veal escalope with red wine and mushrooms. When dining out my favorite restaurant is Gennarino Esposito in Vico Equense.”
Designers Dish
GOOD TASTE RUNS FROM FASHION TO FOOD. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
JOHN VARVATOS
THE OLD MILL, EGREMONT, MASSACHUSETTS “If I’m cooking at home it would probably be something Mexican. But my very favorite place to eat is The Old Mill.” Says owner and chef Terry Moore, “The Old Mill Restaurant has been specializing in fresh seafood since opening in 1978. Oysters are featured daily and Chincoteagues from the Chesapeake Bay area are amongst the most popular. They are a medium-size oyster with a particularly refreshing, briny flavor. They’re shucked to order and served with a classic mignonette sauce on the side.”
MIGNONETTE SAUCE (makes ½ cup) 1 T coarsely cracked black pepper 2 T finely chopped shallots ½ cup French red wine vinegar Chopped chives and salt to taste
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ARNOLD SILVERSTONE OF SAMUELSOHN & HICKEY FREEMAN
TRATTORIA DELL’ARTE, NEW YORK CITY “Trattoria Dell’Arte is right around the corner from our New York offices. It’s been around for decades. The food has always been good, but I remember going there many years ago and it was very crowded. There was a long wait and a lot of attitude from the staff. Truthfully, it was more trouble than it was worth. “Then two or three years ago I started going back. I’m not sure if they changed management or just had a change of heart, but now they greet everyone by name and with a handshake, and they give you a glass of prosecco while you wait. “It was a big lesson to me about the importance of service (and one I try to apply to my own business). Though I always loved the food, I never would have called it my favorite until they made it a warm and pleasant atmosphere. They work hard and they make it feel like eating at home (but better).”
FUN FACT: Trattoria Dell’Arte is centrally located between several of New York’s iconic performance venues, including Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall and Radio City Music Hall.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CASA TUA, MIAMI
ROBERT STOCK OF ROBERT GRAHAM: MINETTA TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY
“I don’t go out often but I really like the burger at Minetta Tavern in New York. It’s a cool place because they have good music and they make a great margarita.”
FUN FACT: Minetta Tavern first opened in Greenwich Village in 1937. A food critic from Time Out New York called the Black Label Burger “the first pricey burger I’ve tasted that’s worth every penny.”
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“I like very much to stay at home and have pizza with my family and my friends. My favorite dish to cook is pasta with fresh tomato sauce and basil; I like the simple recipes so typical of our Umbrian tradition. But if I am away from home and have to choose a restaurant, I like Casa Tua in Miami.”
ABOVE: Sip a classic Italian aperitif like a Negroni or an Aperol Spritz at Casa Tua’s inviting bar. Casa Tua’s chef’s table caters to private parties and special guests (like Brunello Cucinelli).
at your service
All Ways & Always
THE PEOPLE OF KILGORE TROUT ARE HERE TO HELP.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and eases your shopping experience. We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.
ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.
BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.
HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office. Give us a shout, and we’re there.
PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.
CLOSET CLEANING In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.
CUSTOMER LOUNGE In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water, and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen. We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.
TROUT CLUB Earn points with every qualifying purchase: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent (and even more during bonus point days or events). Twice each year, we will email a summary of your available Trout Club rewards. You’ll earn points with every purchase while continuing to earn your own credit card’s miles, points, or cash back benefits. (Some stores require use of store credit cards for reward points.)
GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout Gift Card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination, and arrive in a gift box, ready to give. Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.
CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customer. Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime—and we’ll donate them to a local charity providing clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.
CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options, and over 40 retailers to satiate your every need. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor.
“Only that day dawns to which we are awake.” HENRY DAVID THO R EAU
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