TECHNICAL MANUAL
CONTENTS From KeraStraight’s Brazilian Laboratories to Great Britain and the world, KeraStraight has set the benchmark in the industry for beautifully conditioned, frizz free hair. Created by hairdresser, salon owner and business entrepreneur, Jez Barnett, the KeraStraight brand was introduced to the market in 2009 and has evolved into a range of world leading insalon treatments and products that answer the needs of hairdressers and the dreams of clients whilst cementing that client-stylist relationship as never before.
1
The Transformation
2
Problem Solving
3
The Science
4
The KeraStraight Advantages
5
KS Ultimate & Colour
7
KS Ultimate Step by Step
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KeraStraight Intense Boost
12
Intense Boost Step by Step
13
KeraStraight Products
14
KeraStraight Maintenance
15
Ultimate Oil
16
KS Style
17
FAQs
19
Troubleshooting
20
Build Big Business
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WHAT IS KERASTRAIGHT? A semi-permanent hair repair, straightening and smoothing system that provides unrivalled condition, strength and shine.
WHAT IS INTENSE BOOST? A fast in-salon service that gives intensive conditioning and repair to the hair in just 30 minutes that lasts up to 30 days.
THE TRANSFORMATION
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PROBLEM SOLVING KeraStraight can provide the greatest answers to your clients hair problems.
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PROBLEM
SOLUTION
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Hard to manage / Unmanageable
Easy to manage
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Takes too long
Time saving
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Dry
Repaired
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Damaged
Healthy / Repaired
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Weak
Strong
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Frizzy
Smooth
THE SCIENCE WHY & HOW KERASTRAIGHT WORKS The hair’s natural composition is mainly Keratin, a protein containing 16 different Amino Acids that repeat and interact. Amino acids are critical and serve as the building blocks for proteins. With KeraStraight, the amino acid Cysteine is added to the existing protein molecules to form a semipermanent patch across the hair’s inner structure to create a new shape. KeraStraight Treatments do not contain any chemical ingredients that structurally alter or damage the hair.
KERASTRAIGHT KEY INGREDIENTS KERATIN the main protein in hair which provides strength and resilience, comprising of 16 amino acids CARBOCYSTEINE a low pH protein derived from the amino acid Cysteine UREA a synthesised moisturiser and humectant that allows Keratin to be softened and transformed into a new shape. KS COMPLEX protects against environmental stresses and locks in the treatment with added shine and moisture whilst providing an immediate super-light feeling.
HEALTH & SAFETY Health and Safety is at the forefront of all of our products and all KeraStraight’s ingredients are rigorously sourced and tested for compliance and best performance. Our scientists are continuous in their efforts to ensure that not only do we have the best product but that we are pro-active in finding solutions for the future that provide unrivalled results for our business partners and clients, setting the standard for the industry.
INTENSE BOOST KEY INGREDIENTS HYDROLYSED WHEAT PROTEIN creates soft, malleable strength. PALMEIRA TUCUMA Brazilian Palm Fibre which rehydrates without weight. 4
THE KERASTRAIGHT ADVANTAGES 1
UNIVERSAL FOR ALL HAIR TYPES KeraStraight KS Ultimate is suitable for all hair types. Utilise the Application Matrix to personalise the service.
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HEALTH & SAFETY CERTIFIED All KeraStraight treatments are certified free from aldehyde and formaldehyde both in formula and vapour prior to launch.
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LOW PH PROTEIN KeraStraight uses Carbocysteine technology to repair, straighten and smooth to the very last tip.
STRAIGHTENING & STRENGTHENING
REPAIR & SOFTENING
PERSONALISING THE SERVICE The KeraStraight service can be personalised to each client by adapting the following 3 areas
The Timings
The Temperature of the Irons
The Passes of the Irons
The Application Matrix on the back page sets out a fantastic guide, but by adjusting the 3 areas above allows a hairstylist to design a personalised service for their clients. 5
VAPOUR CAPTURE TECHNOLOGY
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Enzymes capture the molecules in the vapour making the treatment pleasant for client and hairdresser.
RESULTS LAST UP TO 4 MONTHS
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Depends on hair type, lasting longest on more porous hair. Maintaining the treatment with KeraStraight Straight Maintain Shampoo and Conditioner will maximise the benefits and longevity of the treatment.
CAN BE COLOURED 2 DAYS EITHER SIDE
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General rules:
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When lightening the hair, colour 2 days before KeraStraight
If adding colour wait 2 days after KeraStraight
REDUCES STYLING TIME & REMOVES FRIZZ KeraStraight’s combination of proteins, emollients and silicones create a positive charge providing easier control.
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TIME SAVING The KeraStraight KS Ultimate Treatment process saves salon time and increases profit.
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KERASTRAIGHT KS ULTIMATE & COLOUR COLOUR FADE With extremely porous hair, certain colour categories may occasionally reduce from the hair in terms of tone and intensity. If at any point during the ironing process you notice the colour fading, immediately reduce the irons temperature. Do not reduce below 180°C/355°F.
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THE COLOUR CAN BE REFRESHED ON THE NEXT DAY WITH A TRUE (NON OXIDISING) SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR BATH, OR YOU CAN USE ANY COLOUR AFTER 2 DAYS
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WITH VERY LIGHT HIGHLIGHTS AND NATURAL WHITE HAIR, DO NOT USE THE STRAIGHTENING IRONS ABOVE 190°C/375°F THE NATURAL YELLOWISH PIGMENT FROM THE PROTEIN AND KERATIN MAY BE ABSORBED INTO THE HAIR
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KS ULTIMATE STEP BY STEP PREPARATION
1
Gently cleanse the hair twice with KeraStraight Pre-Treatment Cleanser to open up the hair cuticles and soften the hair in readiness for the treatment. The second shampoo should be left on for up to 5 minutes for normal, very curly, virgin and resistant hair types.
2
Once rinsed, dry the hair with a medium heat hairdryer (without a nozzle) to remove 80% of the moisture. Be aware that this happens very quickly!
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DO NOT REMOVE MORE THAN 80% MOISTURE AS RETAINING 20% MOISTURE IS ESSENTIAL TO ENSURE KS ULTIMATE IS EASY TO WORK WITH AND DELIVERS SMOOTHNESS AND REPAIR
Starting at the nape, mist the Pre-Treatment Spray in 2-3cm sections, concentrating on the most porous areas. Comb each section through individually and onto the underneath sections.
APPLICATION
4
Starting at the nape, apply KS Ultimate in 2-3cm sections, close to the root, but not directly on to the root and continue through to the ends. Comb each section through and then comb through with the rest of the treated hair. It is essential to ensure all hair is kept damp with treatment.
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USE THE KERASTRAIGHT APPLICATION BRUSH ONLY FOR KERASTRAIGHT TREATMENTS
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TREATMENT SINK-IN TIME 30 minutes for very porous and fragile hair. 45 minutes for normal, very curly, resistant and virgin hair types.
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CHECK POROUS HAIR THROUGHOUT THE SINK-IN TIME TO ENSURE THE HAIR REMAINS DAMP
RINSING
5
Rinse hair for 2-3 minutes, do not shampoo. Gently squeeze the excess moisture from the hair and apply Moisture Lock, comb through and leave for 4 minutes. Rinse for 1-2 minutes.
DRYING & IRONING
6
Blow dry hair 100%. Brushes, high heat and a nozzle may all be used at this stage. We recommend that the hair is blast dried before finishing with a brush to best prepare the hair for ironing.
7
Iron hair slowly in 2-3cm sections using the KS EasyComb and KeraStraight digitally controlled Titanium Irons. For the first pass, iron the hair from roots to ends in one smooth motion to create the seal. Allow each section to cool for 2 seconds before continuing ironing, utilising the EasyComb, for the required amount of passes. See the Application Matrix for the recommended heat setting and number of passes. Reduce the temperature and the amount of passes on weak or fragile ends.
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KS ULTIMATE SHOULD BE IRONED SLOWLY TO MAXIMISE THE PENETRATION AND STABILITY OF THE TREATMENT. GREATER LEVELS OF SHINE WILL BE NOTICEABLE WITH SLOWER PASSES.
Highly Porous, White or Grey
Normal, Coloured, Dry or Damaged
Resistant, Very Curly, Afro or Virgin
Iron Temperature
180-190 °C 355-375 °F
200-210 °C 390-410 °F
220-230 °C 430-450 °F
Passes with Iron
4-6
6-7
7-10
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CHOOSE THE CORRECT TEMPERATURE FOR THE IRONS BASED ON THE HAIR’S CONDITION PRIOR TO THE START OF THE KS ULTIMATE TREATMENT
ALWAYS FOLLOW THE IRONS THROUGH WITH THE EASYCOMB TO ENSURE MAXIMUM REPAIR TO THE ENDS AND A BEAUTIFUL SEALED FINISH
For a gorgeous final finish, apply 2 drops of KeraStraight Ultimate Oil to calm any flyaway hair and to create the ultimate KeraStraight finish. The result is beautifully conditioned, easy to manage, healthy and shiny hair.
1ST WASH / FINAL STEPS
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Hair can be shampooed from 24 hours. The hair requires 24 hours for the pH to be fully returned to its natural level of pH 4.5-5.5.
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HAIR WILL NEED TO BE SHAMPOOED PRIOR TO NEXT COLOURING
Shampoo using Straight Maintain Shampoo and condition with either Straight Maintain Conditioner, Moisture Mask or Protein Mask which all contain KS Complex to maximise the benefits and longevity of the treatment. Style as required.
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KERASTRAIGHT INTENSE BOOST An exciting and revolutionary in-salon treatment service to delight all clients. Intense Boost utilises KeraStraight’s ground breaking Protein Mask and Moisture Mask designed to smooth and renew hair from the inside out. Each has been formulated using the same world leading protein technology as the professional salon KeraStraight Treatment to ensure your client’s hair is in the optimum condition. Intense Boost rebuilds what the hair lacks and locks in moisture and strength for up to 30 days. Intense Boost Masks are quick and easy to apply, activate with just a hairdryer and the benefits last up to 30 days.
MOISTURE BOOST
Moisture Without Weight
PROTEIN BOOST
Flexible / Malleable Proteins
QUICK FIX
Fast Simple Application - 30 Mins
Long Lasting - 30 Days
Heat Activated In-Salon Service
FOR ALL YOUR CLIENTS
Introduction to KeraStraight
Prolongs KeraStraight
Perfect immediately after a colour service
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INTENSE BOOST STEP BY STEP
CLEANSE Cleanse twice with KeraStraight Pre-Treatment Cleanser (do not use Pre-Treatment Cleanser on recent KeraStraight, bright colours or immediately after colour)
TREAT Apply treatment mask in 2.5cm / 1 inch sections 10ml is normally sufficient depending on hair type. Comb through.
DRY Dry 100% using a hood dryer or hand dryer (medium heat).
RINSE Rinse thoroughly.
THE RESULT Beautifully conditioned, healthy & shiny, luxurious hair. Lasts up to 30 days.
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KERASTRAIGHT PRODUCTS PRE-TREATMENT CLEANSER
First Step of Treatment
Opens the Cuticle and Softens the Hair
PRE-TREATMENT SPRAY
Regulates the Moisture / Protein Balance
Makes Treatment Quicker, Easier and More Cost Effective
MOISTURE LOCK
Locks in Moisture Without Barrier
Low pH of 2.5
KERASTRAIGHT TITANIUM IRON
Titanium Plates for Smoother Ironing
Variable Temperature up to 230°C / 450°F
EASYCOMB
Protects Fine Hair
Creates Tension for Coarse Hair
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KERASTRAIGHT MAINTENANCE STRAIGHT MAINTAIN SHAMPOO
Sulphate and Sodium Chloride free (Sodium Chloride strips Keratin from the hair and shortens the life of the treatment)
Contains KS Complex to maximise the longevity of the treatment
Developed to protect hair from environmental damage
STRAIGHT MAINTAIN CONDITIONER
Leaves hair soft and shiny
Protects hair from environmental stresses
Contains KS Complex to maximise the longevity of the treatment
Low pH
KERASTRAIGHT PROTEIN MASK Contains low weight proteins to form a protein net that rebuilds the hair’s strength.
KERASTRAIGHT MOISTURE MASK Contains Palmeira Tucuma, a Brazilian palm fibre and Carob Bean extract to act as a humectant to radically improve smoothness and moisture levels in the hair. Mask Application: Apply and leave on for 5 minutes, once a week, for ongoing hydration and moisturising benefits for coarser and dehydrated hair types.
KERASTRAIGHT PROTECT Protects against...
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UVA/UVB (up to 8 times natural protection)
Salt Water
Chlorine
ULTIMATE OIL KeraStraight Ultimate Oil is an advanced blend of 9 specially chosen oils, which provides intense nourishment to transform and repair hair inside and out. Ultimate Oil’s non-greasy, lightweight formula absorbs easily into the hair to protect and strengthen, leaving all hair types ultra-smooth, shiny and frizz free.
RECOMMENDED USE Apply a small amount to damp hair prior to blow-drying. Ultimate Oil can also be used on dry hair to tame flyaway hair and control frizz.
9 SUPER OILS, 4 MAJOR BENEFITS REPLENISHING & NOURISHING Argan Oil & Coconut Oil
LIGHTWEIGHT MOISTURE Jojoba Oil & Avocado Oil
SEAL & SHINE Macadamia Oil & Olive Oil
STRENGTH & FULLNESS Linseed Oil, Sunflower Oil & Wheat Germ Oil 16
KS STYLE KS CARE & PROTECT COMPLEX The foundation of the KS Style range - KS Care & Protect Complex is an exclusive, heat activated trilogy of wheat based proteins that penetrate the cortex to fortify and rebuild as well as re-enforcing the cuticle to provide repair and enhanced shine. This innovative protein technology rebuilds the hair’s strength and elasticity, restores moisture and delivers superior heat protection.
BENEFITS
Heat activated conditioning & thermal protection
Seals & repairs cuticle
Enhanced shine & hydration
Increased hair strength
MOISTURE MIST 250ml / 8.5oz nn Leave-in Conditioning & Styling Spray nn Lightweight Moisture nn Excellent Detangling Spray & Cutting Lotion Spray close for concentration and from 6 inches for a lighter feel. Apply to towel dried hair and comb through. Style as required.
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RESCUE CRĂˆME 120ml / 4oz nn Repairs Hair Damage
ROOT LIFT SPRAY GEL 250ml / 8.5oz
nn Seals Split & Broken Ends
nn Versatile Lift & Support For Long Lasting Volume
nn Locks In & Increases Moisture Retention
nn Zero Flaking & Hold Without Stiffness
nn Leaves Hair Looking & Feeling Dramatically Repaired
Spray close for concentration and from 6 inches for a lighter feel. Apply to towel dried hair and comb through.
Work through a small amount to pre shampooed and towel dried hair, concentrating on ends.
Style as required.
Style as required.
nn Spray onto dry hair and restyle to build strength, body and hold.
HEAT PROTECTION SPRAY
GLOSSING TEXTURE CRĂˆME
250ml / 8.5oz
100ml / 3.5oz
nn Heat Activated, Thermal Protection Barrier
nn Reduces Frizz & Add Gives Brilliant Shine
nn Protects Hair From The Harmful Effects Of Styling Tools
nn Builds Texture & Strength Apply post blow dry to calm frizzy or fly-away hair.
nn Locks In Moisture Can be used prior to blow dry by spraying on towel dried hair.
Can be used any time for extra softness, shine and control.
Lightly spray on dry hair before using flat iron or any other heated styling tool.
Add heat once applied to dry hair to build strength & texture.
Refresh a style with light spray and re-dry.
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FAQS What makes KeraStraight the first choice over alternative treatments?
How long does KeraStraight keep the hair straightened, smoothed and repaired?
Our products are designed by hairdressers who understand the needs of both salons and the clients. It also has the endorsement of some of the greatest award winning hairdressers who value the KeraStraight treatment range as not only providing the ultimate results but also in the fact that KeraStraight is completely and certifiably safe for the user and consumer.
The benefits will last in the hair for a period of up to 4 months depending on the hair type. On hair that has had previous chemical services the results are more dramatic and last longer. With hair types that are natural with no chemical service history, the results are better and last longer after subsequent treatments.
Is KeraStraight a permanent hair straightener? No, KeraStraight is based on the hairs natural proteins and will gradually fade from the hair.
Can KeraStraight be applied on pre-treated or coloured hair? Yes, KeraStraight can be applied to all hair types including highlighted, bleached, coloured and also on hair that has had no history of chemical services (virgin hair).
When can I colour my hair if I want to have a KeraStraight? Hair can be coloured either 2 days before the service or alternatively 2 days after. It is usually best to highlight prior and full head colour after the treatment.
Can KeraStraight be applied on hair that has been permed, chemically straightened or relaxed? YES, our treatments can be used on any hair type that has had previous chemical services. Leave 30 days after a KeraStraight Treatment before applying a perm or chemical straightening service.
Will KeraStraight work on very curly and AfroCaribbean hair? YES, KeraStraight is extremely effective on AfroCaribbean hair.
How long does the service process take? Usually between 2-3 hours, depending on hair type and length.
When can I shampoo my hair after a KeraStraight treatment? Once the service is complete you can shampoo and treat your hair as normal after 24 hours.
If I am pregnant or breast-feeding can I safely have a KeraStraight Treatment? Yes, KeraStraight treatments are completely safe to use during pregnancy and while breast-feeding.
When am I able to have a KeraStraight Treatment again after the first application? KeraStraight should last between 2 and 4 months, but can be re-applied after 30 days.
What after care is recommended to ensure best possible results are maintained? KeraStraight recommends using only the KeraStraight Straight Maintain Shampoo and Conditioner. These products are sodium chloride and sulphate free and have been developed to maximise the longevity of the KeraStraight Treatment. They also contain our special KS Complex to support and maintain your treatment and protect against daily environmental stresses.
How long can a KeraStraight treatment bottle be kept for once opened? Once opened you must use within one month, providing the lid is sealed back tightly.
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TROUBLESHOOTING ENDS DRY / FRIZZY Reason
Solution
Prevention
More than 80% moisture removed at the start
Intense Boost to balance
Ensure 20% moisture is left in the hair before applying Pre-Treatment Spray
Not enough treatment applied
Intense Boost to balance
Always check & re-dampen any dry areas
Treatment allowed to dry out
Intense Boost to balance
Always check & re-dampen any dry areas
Wrong iron temperature
Intense Boost to balance
Use digitally controlled irons KeraStraight Titanium Iron
Ends not protected once heated
Intense Boost to balance
Use EasyComb to protect ends
Ends not ironed smoothly
Intense Boost to balance
Always do one perfect 1st pass to seal the treatment into the hair
Ends over ironed
Intense Boost to balance
Iron more fragile areas less
HAIR IS NOT STRAIGHTENED / SMOOTHED Reason
Solution
Prevention
Not enough treatment applied
Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days
Always check & re-dampen any dry areas
Under ironed
Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days
Refer to Application Matrix
Irons used at the wrong temperature
Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days
Use digitally controlled Irons KeraStraight Titanium Iron
Lack of tension
Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days
Use EasyComb
Treatment shampooed off too early
Re-treat after 30 days
Leave treatment 24 hours before shampooing
YELLOWING OF WHITE OR BLONDE HAIR Reason
Solution
Prevention
Wrong temperature used
Colour correction, starting with toner or powder bleach and water
Iron at 180-190째C / 355-375째F
Reason
Solution
Prevention
Wrong temperature used
Recolour after 2 days
Reduce temperature of iron
Pre-Treatment Cleanser left on colour vulnerable hair
Recolour after 2 days
DO NOT leave Pre-Treatment Cleanser on colour vulnerable hair
Hair dried more than 80% prior to treatment application
Recolour after 2 days
Hair must be 20% damp prior to KS Ultimate application
COLOUR FADED
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BUILD BIG BUSINESS With KeraStraight & Intense Boost being suitable for over 80% of your clients and with some salons reporting KeraStraight & Intense Boost bring in over 20% of their technical services, we have put together your essential guide to building big business with our treatments.
LET PEOPLE KNOW
nn Displays nn Website nn Social media nn Leaflets - reception & work stations nn Retail shelves nn Client launch nn Create opportunities from every consultation
CONSULTATIONS
nn “Tell me about your hair” nn How often do you have “good hair days”? nn Are you looking to grow your hair? Let your clients know that they will need to take the homecare with them at this stage.
TEAM INVOLVEMENT
nn Team launch nn Are you team wearing KeraStraight nn Target and incentivise nn Share success stories
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KS ULTIMATE - EASY, BUT ESSENTIAL STEPS
nn DO NOT dry the hair beyond 80% before applying Pre-Treatment Spray nn Keep the hair damp with KS Ultimate during the sink-in time nn Create the seal with a perfect 1st pass and allow to cool for 2 seconds nn Iron slowly in 2-3cm sections nn Always follow through with the EasyComb to ensure the ends are sealed
FOLLOWING UP
nn Offer the choice of 250ml/8oz & 500ml/16oz sizes of Straight Maintain Shampoo & Conditioner nn Pre-book their next appointment nn Offer an Intense Boost treatment to boost their KeraStraight after 2-3 months
Don’t forget Intense Boost is for all clients and makes a great introduction to KeraStraight
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TR012 KeraStraight Technical Manual KS Ultimate
Shampoo
Passes with Iron 2-3cm wide sections Reduce passed on weak ends
Iron Temperature Reduce temperature on weak ends
4-6
180-190 °C 355-375 °F
Hair can be shampooed after 24 hours
6-7
200-210 °C 390-410 °F
Blow Dry 100%, brushes may be used
Blow Dry Stage
45
Rinse hair throughly, then apply Moisture Lock for 4 minutes
30
7-10
220-230 °C 430-450 °F
45
5
Resistant, Very Curly, Afro or Virgin
Moisture Lock
Treatment “Sink In” (mins)
Apply Treatment in 2-3cm wide sections
KS Ultimate
5
Normal, Coloured, Dry or Damaged
Blast dry hair 80%, then spray onto hair.
0
Highly Porous, White or Grey
Pre-Treatment Spray
Pre-Treatment Cleanser Leave On (mins)
APPLICATION MATRIX