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FW13 TREND 2 0 1 3 I M REPORT E OA G ARZ I N ET. C O M K E N TP ONM


KENTONM A GA Z I N E. C OM

ALEXANDER LIANG (Editor-in-Chief) TERICA WALTON (Creative Director) COLIN DAWIDZIUK (European Fashion Director)

TALYA MACEDO MEGAN WEST ANDREW TANG-KONG JACK DUCE

Fashion Editor & Digital Lead Market Editor Assistant Fashion Editor—Europe Fashion Assistant


03

FW13 TREND REPORT It seems like the world’s designers had a similar thought in mind for the collections this season; the new mood, in all it’s glory, is something that reaches everyone. From the polished rebels to the many ways to wear a skirt, from the classic suits to the leathered up kinks, it seems cliche to say there is something for everyone. And yet, here we are.

Welcome to the new season. We’ve been expecting you.

Ph o t o g r a p h e d by : Br i t t a ny L amso n


P h ot ographed by: Br i t t a ny L a mson


05

WOMENS Warning: the trends you are about to see are not for the weak at heart. Better strap your combat boots, ladies—it’s a war out there.


BALENCIAGA

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

ALEXANDER WANG

JW ANDERSON

ALTUZARRA

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FUR-REALISM It’s on the tip of every animal rights activists tongue – but for now, let’s forget the controversy, and focus on the sheer beauty of what we call the ‘new fur’. It’s reworked, it’s kooky, it’s funky, but most of all – it’s fresh. Look at

SISTER BY SIBLING

Roksanda Ilincic’s neo-brights, J.W. Anderson’s mink torsos, and Topshop Unique’s off the shoulder chic for the wearable; Alexander Wang, Sister by Sibling, and Altuzarra for the more ballsy. And though we don’t condone fur, we can admit that the call of the wild is too strong to ignore. Just be sure not to stroke yourself in public. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR


JOHN ROCHA

SEE BY CHLOE MIU MIU

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

MARA HOFFMAN

CHANEL

07

TICKLED PINK Shades inspired by flushed cheeks and delicate roses flocked the runway for Fall 2013 and brought an energy that was one part fierce femme and another, ethereal. From dusty rose to saturated or borderline

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

fuchsia hues, pink is back and designers are ready to play with it. The shade isn’t traditionally considered a Fall-Winter hue, so interest is easily created when it’s textured, structured and even more so, heavily printed on tunics and trousers. Pair your pinks with teal or turquoise accessories to create interest that is traditionally associated with Spring, but looks incredible in Winter - or black to sharply juxtapose. TALYA MACEDO, FASHION EDITOR & DIGITAL LEAD


CHANEL PETER PILOTTO

CHRISTOPHER KANE

MARY KATRANTZOU

BURBERRY PRORSUM

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

JIL SANDER

08

COATING RANGE Question for you, dear reader. What is the one thing that one must never question calling an ‘investment’? If you answered a coat, you’d be right. And for once, the coat is in full swing for the new season, meaning – you guessed it – there’s an opportunity to have your coat portfolio stock rise…and rise…and rise. From sleeveless to oversized, military to tomboy, there’s something for everyone, from graphic beauty at Peter Pilotto, to cinched femme fatale at Bottega Veneta, to shouldered shearling at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Now there’s no excuse for a shoddy staple. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR


MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC

PROENZA SCHOULER

MAXMARA

BOTTEGA VENETA

VALENTINO

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

SAINT LAURENT

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ROKSANDA ILINCIC

GIVENCHY

SAINT LAURENT

CHRISTOPHER KANE BURBERRY PRORSUM

ALTUZARRA

CELINE

10


VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL PRADA

VICTORIA BECKHAM

JIL SANDER

TOPSHOP UNIQUE MARIOS SCHWAB

SKIRTING THE ISSUE

Ah, the skirt. An icon of femininity, a versatile wardrobe necessity, and often a forgiving best friend. The only downfall of the new season’s obsession with the skirt? Being spoiled for choice. With designers across the world showing off their love for the multifaceted staple, the amount of options for this trend is staggeringly, eye wateringly astounding. Mini, knee, midi, ankle – do you hark to Christopher Kane’s utilitarian cool, Burberry Prorsum’s kinky-yet-cool lurex, or Victoria Beckham’s executive realness, maybe even Roksanda Ilincic’s lady-like demure length? That’s up to you. But don’t worry – you’ve got plenty of choice. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR

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CHRIST OPHERKANE

ALICE AND OLIVIA

FALLING FOR FLORALS

ROBERTOCAVALLI

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

LOUIS VUITTON

PETER SOM

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We’ve all made the Devil Wears Prada-inspired floral jokes (thank you Miranda Priestly), but there’s a reason they keep coming back. With the ability to breathe new life into one’s wardrobe season-after-season, designers are constantly recreating the classic print. This fall there’s a wide-range of aesthetics with Louis Vuitton and Peter Som here to represent for the more whimsical woman who approaches her style with

CHARLOTTE RONSON

a softer, romantic feel, while designers such as Christopher Kane, Alice and Olivia and Roberto Cavalli deliver for the woman who’s unafraid to make a bold and more playful statement. But whichever style one chooses, there is a distinct air of sophistication that will undoubtedly shine through on the woman who dares to wear. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR


TOMMY HILFIGER

MULBERRY

CHECKED PAST Spring’s stripes have made way to an even more geometrical pattern. Don’t be a square... Check patterns return this fall. Fresh takes on the old time classic were interpreted by a multitude of designers this season. Each with his or her own take on the perfect check, many designers seemed to abide by an overarching ode to the English countryside. This season, check patterns make their way into our wardrobes via statement coats and jackets to skirts and dresses. Whether you opt for a small checked accessory or a full patterned suit, this trend is one to embrace. ALEXANDER LIANG, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

STELLA MCCARTNEY

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

MOSCHINO

CELINE

PHILLIP LIM

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LANVIN JONATHAN SAUNDERS

CHRISTIAN DIOR

PRADA

BURBERRY PRORSUM

NINA RICCI

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LADY LUXURY There’s no shortage of unapologetic glamour this season, and really, what’s better? For the ladies who wish to exude classic elegance with modern aesthetic, this trend promises to deliver. The key player here is the elongated silhouette, as seen at Prada, Nina Ricci, and Lanvin, which emphasizes the female shape and exudes confidence. For the more contemporary girl, there are the slightly edgier variations as seen at Burberry Prorsum and Gucci, which with their leather skirts and contrasting textures evoke a tougher, modern-day femme fatale. The feeling here is pure luxury that packs a powerful fashion punch; a trend

GUCCI

that speaks to the most fearless of women. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR


CELINE

CHRISTOPHER KANE

PETER PILOTTO

CHLOE

JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA

J.W. ANDERSON

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MARY KATRANTZOU

LINEAR MOTIONS Mandated to continuously push limits, designers are forever searching for inspiration. Architecture and industrial design are often sourced and have severe influence on collections. We move away from streamlined silhouettes and enter a world of jutting shoulders, climbing collars, and swooping capes. But to avoid looking over the top, pairing architectural outerwear with slimming basics or choosing a shape featuring a cinched waist can help counter any negative impact. Chosen with care, these structural pieces generously contour certain body parts while graciously forgiving others. ANDREW TANG-KONG, ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR (EU)


CHANEL SAINT LAURENT

VERSACE

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

RODARTE

CHRISTOPHER KANE

JW ANDERSON

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REBEL, REBEL, REBEL Is it any wonder the punk/grunge look is all the rage? See what we did there? Ah, nevermind. With the Met Gala celebrating all things punk earlier this year, is it all that surprising that designers across the globe did their thing with the iconic look? Of course not. Look at Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci for the ultimate inspiration in high-gloss-rebellion, but for those of you veering to the more wearable side, it’s all about Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent incarnation of the Cali-punk. And let’s not forget the kinky Versace or the elegant McQueen – rock on, ladies. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR


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HAIR THE UN-DONE BUN Perfectly messy hair is eternally chic and this season that translates to the perfectly imperfect bun. Seen at Marchesa, Prabal Gurung, and Dolce inspired in its elegance, but secured more towards the nape of the neck with perfectly frayed strands, the classic style is given an ultra-cool update. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, we suggest braiding the sides of your hair, or the bun itself for some added dimension. Try: Give your hair soft texture with Oribe Dry Texturing Spray and lightly tease the sides and crown to create natural-looking volume. If you have shorter layers in the front, allow those pieces to fall naturally instead of securing

PRABAL GURUNG

& Gabbana, this look lends a Parisian-chic feel to any look. Ballerina-

them into place. From there, pin your bun into place, pull out a few wispy pieces, and be on your way!

ORIBE DRY TEXTURIZING SPRAY

MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR SANDRA KASPRZYSZAK, FASHION ASSISTANT

FAVORITE PART It was unanimous among hair experts everywhere at fashion week that the side part was their favorite part. Whether it was the diffused, tough look at Marni, a side pony at Lanvin, or Taxi Driver curls at Bottega Veneta, each look centered around a side part. Before creating a deep side part, add texture to hair by using a volume spray or powder. Try: Loreal Super Dust, Root boosting, voluminous powder, by “Puffing” directly onto roots for lift or through lengths & ends for a matt, tousled effect. Finish off with Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine serum to seals, coat and smooth, to create a finished look. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR

BOTTEGA VENETA

SANDRA KASPRZYSZAK, FASHION ASSISTANT

CALVIN KLEIN

LOREAL SUPER DUST

REDKEN DIAMOND OIL SHATTERPROOF SHINE SERUM


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BEAUTY From the very bold, to the very understated, we’ve rounded up three of our favorite fall beauty trends. There’s a lot of fun to be had, so be fearless and let your creativity shine through! Contrast with your favorite fall fashion trends for a gorgeous and on-trend look from head-to-toe.

1| CRAZY EYES Run wild this season with bold liner in all sorts of crazy colors! Let your instincts take the lead, mixing and contrasting your favorite hues. From 60’s inspired liner at Anna Sui to over-the-top glittering gold at Chanel and Thakoon, there’s ample inspiration to push your eye make-up boundaries all season long. Tip: Keep skin bare and lips nude to keep things from getting messy. We suggest mixing Tom Ford Nude Vanille with MAC Underage Lipglass for the perfect neutral lip. Try: Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner, MAC Eye Shadow in Tilt and MAKE UP FOREVER Glitters in Gold 1.

2| BARE MINIMUM Clean, fresh-faced models dominated the Burberry, Christopher Kane, and Calvin Klein runways this season with looks tailored to enhance each model individually. Tip: Create uniformity with Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer, Burberry Sheer Luminous Fluid Foundation and NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer. Highlight, contour and enhance your own unique features. Try: Create a healthy glow with the Benefit Watt’s Up! (use on your cheeks, under the eyes, and brow bone) and Yves St. Laurent ROUGE VOLUPTÉ - Silky Sensual Radiant Lipstick.

3| TEXTURED LIPS Just when we thought the perfect lip consisted of a simple application of our favorite lipstick and a slight rub of the lips to even out the color, textured lips filled the fall 2013 runways of Prada, Derek Lam, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Marni, and suddenly we wanted more. Gone are the days of using lip liner (if you even do) for just a mere outlining of the lip or as a means of staying between the lines. Not only does working your lip liner almost all the way down to the middle of your lips create depth and dimension, but using mismatched lip liner and two lipstick colors blended together, opens up a whole new ball game for your lips. Try different textured looks by blending in darker shades towards the center of the mouth, leaving you with fuller, bolder lips. Tip: Press lips with fingertips to create a stain. Try: NARS Mascate Pure Matte Lipstick with NARS Jungle Red Lip Liner Pencil

MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR SANDRA KASPRZYSZAK, FASHION ASSISTANT


1 ANNA SUI

CHLOE

DIOR

19

2 BOBBI BROWN LONG-WEAR GEL EYELINER

CHRISTOPHER KANE

NARS MASCATE PURE MATTE LIPSTIC

3 DEREK LAM

FLUID FOUNDATION

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

BURBERRY SHEER LUMINOUS


P h ot ographed by: Br i t t a ny L a mson


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MENS Move aside, Dapper Dan. There’s a new sheriff in town, and he’s got a thing or two to say about his clothes...


GIVENCHY

CARLOS CAMPOS

CARVEN

TOP MAN DESIGN

SAINT LAURENT

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DETAILED VERNACULAR The couture-like details of this season’s menswear are making it easier than ever for men to push their style boundaries. Precise tailoring with luxe fabrics, as seen at Givenchy, Burberry Prorsum and Dolce & Gabbana are undeniable options for the most refined men who possess an eye for true luxury. But for the more urban, downtown-cool guy, the over-exaggerated shapes and strategic layering, a la Topman Design and Sibling, promise to lend an unexpected edge to one’s look. We

SIBLING

suggest approaching this trend with a no holds barred attitude, as these styles command attention, leaving little room for self-doubt. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR


DRIES VAN NOTEN

HARDY AMIES

LOU DALTON

DAMIR DOMA

VALENTINO

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CHECK, PLEASE. Fall and Winter are no strangers to the influence of checkered prints, especially on flannel and wool – but designers are playing with squares in new, bright hues and silhouettes that are bound to inspire the men of the season to mix up their print stories a bit. The versatility of this look is immense – meant to be played with in several contexts including sleek, fitted blazers (dapper every time!) or loose, punky trousers. Extend your look by mixing checks of different sizes or pair your solidhued pieces with coloured checks to brighten your look as the days GUCCI

get duller. TALYA MACEDO, FASHION EDITOR & DIGITAL LEAD


GIVENCHY CALVIN_KLEIN

KENZO

NEIL BARRETT

PUBLIC SCHOOL NYC

LACOSTE

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EH, NEW SPORT? Summer may be over, but it’s a whole new sport this season. Are you game? Designers are taking inspiration from sports, all kinds of different sports. This fall, it’s all about a great crewneck, but we’re not talking about your old varsity pullover. Remixed in lux fabrics, sportswear is taking on a new form of chic for men. Clean lines and bold stripes take the lead. And while athletic aesthetics trickle into ready-towear, the key to this look is refinement. Go for muted colors and earthtones. Don’t be afraid to juxtapose proportions, but definitely steer clear of the post-workout look. ALEXANDER LIANG, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF


DIOR HOMME

CALVIN KLEIN

GIVENCHY

JIL SANDER

25

SUIT YOURSELF Outside the land of weddings and boardrooms, the suit is seemingly more ubiquitous on an every day basis. Maintaining this perspective, designers have adapted an inclusive measure to satisfy a range of tastes and desires. Brands have exploded with suiting options, albeit more progressive, bordering outlandish, ones. Zippers instead of buttons, skirts instead of trousers. Gone are the traditional gentleman standards of this wardrobe essential. This contemporary take, or blatant boundary

LANVIN

pushing, introduces mixed materials, high stances, and no lapels. It’s undeniable that there are endless choices. ANDREW TANG-KONG, ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR (EU)


TOPMAN DESIGN

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

BURBERRY PRORSUM

GIVENCHY

26

LEATHER, DADDY Leather on men has always been a slight taboo, hasn’t it? Leave it to the gays and bikers, they cried. Well not anymore – it’s time to turn a

SAINT LAURENT

blind eye and invest in the manliest of fabrics, be it leather, pleather, or wet-look. Balmain – the purveyor of manly and stylish leather – leads the pack in the style stakes, whilst JW Anderson charges with his army of leather-clad lads to provoke a little thought. Either way, there’s something for every-man – and trust us, it’s all good. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR


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GROOMING HELPFUL HYDRATION From businessman to bricklayer, grooming is fundamental to vitality

LUCAS’ PAPAW OINTMENT

of life. Segueing through autumn and winter months, hydrating and retaining skin’s moisture is a top priority. Aside from staples of exercise and water consumption, a more topical approach is to incorporate moisturisers into the daily skin regime. Though a manual longer than War and Peace can be written, from application to ingredients, the basics aren’t so perplexing. Opt for a moisturiser that compliments your skin type. Whether oily or dry, normal or combination, there is a formula on the market that is suitable. Experimentation is key. Bear in mind, there is absolutely no correlation between price tag and effectiveness. Moisturisers containing sunscreen perform double duty. Prevent wrinkles and protect your skin from

ART OF SHAVING - AFTER-SHAVE LOTION

harmful rays by choosing one with a minimum of SPF 15. Ensure to apply your moisturiser immediately after bathing. This coating traps water in the surface cells maintaining hydration for a longer period of time. The ideal product and a simple routine can be invaluable, resulting in a softer, healthier outer shell. ANDREW TANG-KONG, ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR (EU)

LAB SERIES - DAILY DEFENSE AESOP - EYE CREAM

AHAVA - MINERAL HAND CREAM JACK BLACK - LIP BALM

JACK BLACK - DOUBLE-DUTY FACE MOISTURIZER


GIVENCHY

BURBERRY PRORSUM

LANVIN

PROENZA SCHOULER

CHRISTOPHER KANE

PRADA

DOLCE & GABBANA

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

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CHANEL

What’s the new season without a little bit of detail and accessories? Nothing, that’s what! From shoes to bags to all the little details you don’t get to see in the images, check out our selection of the best final touches of the collections…

CELINE

BURBERRY PRORSUM

ALL IN THE DETAILS

29

COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR

MARIOS SCHWAB

ALBERTA FERRETTI

CHLOE

SAINT LAURENT

BOTTEGA VENETA

DONNA KARAN

JACK DUCE, FASHION ASSISTANT


KENTONM A GA Z I N E. C OM

KENTON Fall 2013 Trend Report