37 of your toughest car problems solved by our experts
SAVING YOU MONEY SINCE 1958
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
All you need to know to perform a DIY procedure
WIN An INTRODUCTION to 199-piece
DIY toolkit with cantilever toolbox
3 prizes £313 Worth more than
Merc & Renault diesel
EGR valve filter clean
SENSORS 9 HOW TO EXAMINE, TEST & RENEW
PAGE SPECIAL
Focusing on sensors in these categories Air Fuel
DMF & CLUTCH swap
BMW 135 series
Exhaust Engine
FEBRUARY2024 2020 February
Battery KELSEYmedia
Jaguar XJ (X351)
Now affordable luxury
SERVICE
MG ZS
1.0 T-GDI 3-cyl
KELSEYmedia
DIAGNOSTICS KELSEYmedia
Fiat 500 KELSEYmedia KELSEYmedia
FEBRUARY 2020
£2.95
KELSEYmedia Scrutinising the 1.2
KELSEYmedia
KELSEYmedia08/01/2024 14:18 £2.95
Front Cover FEBRUARY 2024 £4.99.indd 1
£2.95
BUYING GUIDE
£2.95 £4.99
Ausgabe 9/2022
Ausgabe 17/2022
Ausgabe 17/2022
Ausgabe 4/2023
Ausgabe 4/2023
Ausgabe 6/2022
Ausgabe 8/2023
Ausgabe 16/2022
www.liqui-moly.com
One brand, all solutions As a world-renowned manufacturer of the highest-quality motor oils, additives, vehicle care products, chemical repair aids as well as service products, adhesives and sealants, we offer you the full range for the technical and visual preservation of vehicle value. A unique variety of products that you can only find at LIQUI MOLY. With us, you get everything from a single source. This saves you a lot of time and money. A strong argument for retailers, workshops and consumers alike. Benefit from this added value, and take advantage of our product range and product expertise!
Editorial
Martyn Knowles, Editor
Email martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk Follow us on Facebook @ Car Mechanics Order back issues here: shop.kelsey.co.uk/ single-issue/car-mechanics-magazine
B-I-O failures Some engines have timing belts that run around the engine in a bath of engine oil. Yes, you heard that correctly. I don’t know exactly why carmakers decided on this approach, but I believe it is all in the aim of keeping the engine as quiet as possible. However, Belt-in-Oil engines (B-I-O) have been around for a number of years now – though of late I’ve read about failure of engines with this form of timing belt more than I’ve ever read before. Mostly the toothed belt after time looses its teeth, which then sends debris around the whole engine, blocking all the oil paths and the sump oil strainer. Of course, servicing of the engine as per schedule is critical but even that doesn’t guarantee a perfect engine. As we saw in our Service Bay in the December 2023 issue on the Citroën C3 1.2, Mark Shipman of AES York Ltd showed us how to use a belt measuring tool to check for belt swelling. The recommended belt change interval on this engine is 112,500 miles or 10 years. I recently joined a Facebook Group ‘Ford EcoBoost Nightmare’. It makes interesting reading. Motorists who find themselves with a problematic Ford engine are finding their way to this site after a ‘Goggle’ search. Most are complaining about the lack of Ford assistance (many owners’ cars are out of warranty), asking what they can do next, which unfortunately isn’t much apart from scrapping the car or spending thousands on a replacement engine. We did read in the last Your Letters section (CM, Nov 23) from Brenda Gorst whose PSA 1.2 PureTech engine had died at 73,000 miles due to B-I-O failure. She is one of many who are trying to take legal action. Another reason for this story is I’ve recently heard from a couple of CM readers. One being Mr Mason who asked me to inform Mike Humble that his recently-acquired Vauxhall Grandland X would be running an engine with a wet belt. Mike, I’m sure, is aware and he will keep on top of servicing the engine. After the C3 1.2 Service Bay feature, Mr Hally wrote in to say that 112,500 is way too much and he thinks Citroën have halved that mileage for a belt change. He owns a 2017 C3 Picasso and says that the tool test for a swollen belt can’t be fully trusted as his belt passed that test, but when he did change the belt soon after, it was visibly
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Editorial.indd 3
disintegrating and so stretched that the tensioner had reached the full limit of travel. He found debris in the vacuum pump filter, around the camshafts and the oil pickup pipe filter. The belt was genuine Citroën with just under 40,000 miles covered. Mr Hally has sent me pictures of his old belt and the debris. I‘ll feature this in CM soon. He goes on to say that if you do have a wet belt engine check it visually every year at least through the oil filler cap but better still through the access panel on the end of the engine above the crank pulley. If you’ve had a bad experience with a B-I-O wet belt engine please do write in to me at the above email.
No van project I advertised in the last issue that we were starting a VW Transporter project (a van). Unfortunately I got that wrong and we aren’t starting this project van until the August 2024 issue – something to look forward to I say. That means for the next two issues we don’t have any planned project cars running in the magazine. Or do we? I’ve decided to run a vehicle currently on the publisher’s fleet – a 2008 Bentley Flying Spur. We’ll run this over the March/April/May editions as a stop-gap. From the April 2024 issue we do have a planned project – this time sponsored by Machine Mart – a BMW 335i Coupe of 2007 vintage. Bought from eBay, it cost us a few pennies as this engine is generally desirable amongst enthusiasts – this one having had engine modifications too. It’s a manual with a remap and more. It doesn’t hang about. We will cover this as a series in CM and then the 335i will head over to our sister magazine, Total BMW to look into the modifications.
Renewing
TIMING BELTS & CHAINS Our 11th ‘yellow book’ is on-sale at WHSmith stores and online. As part of the CM Expert range, we have put together this 100-page book printed from previously-published articles in CM. You will find professional advice on working on timing belts and chains in general; looking at the subject of variable valve timing; plus step-by-step model specific belt and chain replacements. Priced at £9.99 – or a digital copy at £8.99 – or you can take out an annual subscription to the next four forthcoming books at £35.96. See our advert on pages 92-93 or visit our website at: shop.kelsey.co.uk/car-mechanicsexpert-magazine
Renewing
EXPERT
TIMING BELTS & CHAINS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY
GENERAL GUIDE TO WORKI
MECHANICS
NG ON TIMING BELTS & CHAINS UNDERSTANDING VARIABLE VALVE TIMING STEPBYSTEP TIMING BELT & CHAIN SWAPS ON POPULAR MODELS: AUDI TT CHRYSLER FORD MONDEO TDCi PEUGEOT 206 & 207
PT CRUISER HYUNDAI COUPE RENAULT CLIO
FIAT PUNTO JAGUAR AJ V8 ROVER KV6
FORD Ka Mk2 JAGUAR XF SUZUKI JIMNY
LEARN NEW SKILLS
FIXING COMMON TIMING BELTS VARIABLE VALVE TIMING
WORKING ON TIMING CHAIN
ISSUE 11
S
TIMING BELT TECHNIQUES
Car Mechanics
February 2024
£9.99
08/01/2024 18:26
Contents
SUBSCRIBE We are sorry, but apart from material sent to Help! or Diagnostics Doctor, not all correspondence can be replied to personally, though everything is read carefully. Emails will be treated in the same way as ordinary mail – the editor is not normally available to provide instant replies.
FEATURES
32 Low-pressure EGR filter clean
Case study on a Mercedes-Benz C200 with the Renault diesel engine.
36 Brake disc skimming investigation 38 DIY wheel alignment
How to set up a system in your home garage to get near spot-on results.
44 Rover 75 diesel alternator fix
50 Buying, Owning: Jaguar XJ
WORKSHOP 20 Tales from the Workshop Real-life workshop problems, and how they were fixed.
26 Clutch Clinic: BMW 1, 3, 5-Series 58 Service Bay: MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI 80 Electronic Diagnostics: Fiat 500 1.2 56
Email: cm.ed@kelsey.co.uk Car Mechanics is published 12 times a year, on the 3rd Friday of each month, by Kelsey Publishing Ltd.
EDITORIAL Editor Martyn Knowles email martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk Technical Editor Steve Rothwell email cm.questions@kelsey.co.uk
CONTRIBUTORS Alan Anderson Jake Belder Peter Clayton Ian Cushway Andrew Everett Richard Gunn Rob Hawkins Mike Humble Rob Marshall Andrew Rolland Peter Simpson James Stanbury
Your motoring problems answered.
76 Diagnostics Doctor
Your diagnostics-related problems sorted.
86 Spotlight: VAX SpotWash Home Cordless 88 Our Cars
Mr Humble shares a near miss experience many of us may have encountered.
ADVERTISING SALES & PRODUCTION
Car Mechanics, Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL.
5 Peter Simpson column 48 Your Letters 54 Dealer’s Diary 64 Help!
98 In My Humble Opinion
The Toyota GR86 is assessed.
www.kelsey.co.uk
REGULARS
Andrew Everett buys a BMW 118d from Copart, while Peter Clayton get his BMW 130i ready for a long trip.
56 Catch ’em while you can!
KELSEYmedia
31
BUYING ADVICE
Looking at a cheap fix first that involves a repair with the alternator in situ.
CONTACT US
SEE PAGE
88
6 An introduction to sensors
The considerable computing power within modern cars would be useless without sensors. With so many different types fitted to modern engines, we look at how DIYers can examine, test and replace them.
save money and get a FREE BEANIE HAT!
Talk Media Sales Account Manager Natalie Excell Tel: 01732 445674 email natalie@talk-media.uk Ad Production Nick Bond email nick@talk-media.uk Tel: 01959 541444
SUBSCRIPTIONS 12 issues of CAR MECHANICS are published per annum
UK subscription and back issue orderline 0845 241 5159 Overseas subscription orderline 0044 (0) 1959 543747 Toll free USA subscription orderline 1-888-777-0275 UK customer service team: 01959 543747 For customer service support, please visit https://help.kelsey.co.uk Customer service and subscription postal address Car Mechanics Customer Service Team, Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL
Already a subscriber? Manage your subscription online: shop.kelsey.co.uk/site/loginForm
MANAGEMENT
Managing Director Phil Weeden Subscription Marketing Director Gill Lambert Retail Director Steve Brown Print Production Manager Georgina Harris Print Production Controllers Kelly Orriss and Hayley Brown Subs Marketing Exec Dave Sage and Claire Aspinall Affiliate Marketing Kate Chamberlain
DISTRIBUTION Distribution in Great Britain Seymour Distribution Limited, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT Tel: 020 7429 4000 www.seymour.co.uk Distribution in Northern Ireland and the Republic Of Ireland Newspread, Tel: +353 23 886 3850
Kelsey Media 2024 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties. Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy. If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk
4 Car Mechanics Contents.indd 4
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 14:15
T he
Peter Simpson
With his daughter now old enough to drive, Peter’s been looking at young driver insurance. Much has changed since he was 17…
COLUMN
a test-pass should increase premium, but the difference is I still can’t quite believe it’s happened as it seems only that passing a test means you can drive independently, and yesterday that I was collecting my daughter from primary school, that increases the risk-factor massively! Moreover, and this is but Katie has just turned 17. We were hoping to buy her a car especially important when using price-comparison websites, as a birthday present. However, something that’s affordable a cheap quote for a young learner does NOT automatically insurance-wise for a 17-year-old but which also has sufficient translate into the cheapest price for a young person who has ‘street cred’ for her – and which is also sufficiently reliable and in passed their test. In fact, it hardly ever does, as the two risks good enough condition to satisfy me – has so-far proved elusive. are very different. So before choosing the cheapest quote So, while the funds have been earmarked, for her actual birthday, with a provisional licence, try keying in the same details but I bought her instead a personalised registration (direct from with a full licence. DVLA, so no classics were harmed or robbed in its acquisition) There are though two other slightly surprising things that do – plus of course her provisional driving licence. seem to reduce the cost of insurance for new licence-holders. Incidentally, while checking the licence details were One is to have comprehensive cover rather than third-party, correct, I spotted something else rather scary. Katie’s car and even if the car’s value doesn’t seem to merit it. In part this motorcycle entitlement expires on her 70th birthday, in 2076. is because insurers believe the type of driver who chooses That is 100 years (yes, one hundred years, or a whole century) comprehensive cover tends to be safer than third-party after my first licence was issued in 1976! ‘cheapskates’ but it’s also because comprehensive cover on Anyway, new driver stuff is something that I’ve known I’ll be cheap cars is simpler to administer and they retain more control. dealing with at some point, but until you start doing it you’ve Though it’s officially denied, many people believe that little idea what is actually involved. Obviously, cost of insurance writing-off older cars with minor damage can actually earn is the biggest issue; I know that once Katie passes her test, we’ll them money, because lightly-damaged salvage is often be looking at £1500 for her first year. sold for more than the insurance payout. In Katie’s case What I wasn’t, however, expecting, was that a lot of comprehensive cover was at least £300 cheaper than thirdcompanies simply wouldn’t cover her at all! I have a motor party fire and theft. The second way of saving money is to trade policy with demonstration cover; in the past this has been leave the experienced driver on the policy – insurers like called ‘demonstration and tuition,’ and the initial plan was to get evidence that a responsible older person is taking an interest. the tuition part (which I hadn’t actually noticed being removed) It’s also now normal for insurers covering young people to reinstated so that I could supervise her. But they said no. insist on a ‘telematics’ box or similar being installed. This plugs I also got a ‘no’ from the Co-Op, with whom 17-year-old me into the EOBD port and monitors when and how a car is driven, had insured his first car – an Austin A35 van – back in 1977. and data from it is used to assess what risk the driver poses. In That cover, incidentally, cost me £77, a little over twice what a cases of blatant or regular bad driving, the insurer can withdraw mature driver would have paid for the same level of cover, and cover completely. This does happen – I know of one case where according to the Bank of England, equivalent to around £430 a single incident of speeding (albeit at 87mph in a 70) resulted today. But I still thought myself hard done-by! in cover being withdrawn, and of course once that’s happened, There’s more. Today’s new/young drivers must go through far getting cover elsewhere will, if even possible, cost far more! more hoops than we did. There are theory/hazard perception Bear in mind too that the telematics box will have no way of tests, a much tougher driving test and then two years’ knowing who is driving, and the insurance company will know probation during which six or more points mean taking your straightaway if its disconnected or swapped into another car. test again. I’m not commenting on the rights or wrongs of all When I learned to drive, most motor insurers saw covering this; I’m simply saying that’s how it is, and that it is different. young drivers as something they had to do as part and parcel Anyway, searching out insurance for Katie has, I think, given me of the whole business of supplying insurance. Shopping a pretty good insight into what’s involved, so here are a few tips... around for insurance was also common once cover had been First and foremost, don’t be fooled by a seemingly low bought, and it wasn’t unusual for someone to stay with the quote for a provisional licence holder, especially if an same company for 10, 20 or even 30 years. Nowadays of course experienced driver is listed as second driver. I could get cover it’s all very different, and there are specialist providers for for Katie on a provisional licence for around £250 with me as most types of insurance, a second driver. Insurers and cover for young realise that a learner will drivers is no different. always be supervised by But at the same time, and an experienced driver, as I discovered, many and that if an experienced mainstream providers driver is also listed, they’ll simply don’t cater for assume they’ll most likely young drivers at all. be supervising, and base The one bit of good the price as much on news though is that the them as the new driver. high rates charged to But… Once the new new drivers do drop back driver passes their test, quite quickly after the the insurer MUST be told first couple of years. straightaway, and you can Provided of course that the expect a hefty increase. driver behaves themself Yes, in some ways it’s A Fiat Panda. Low insurance, but nothing like enough street cred for my 17-year-old, so the search continues. On a serious note, I do get what she means. in the meantime… counter-intuitive that shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME PAS Column FEBRUARY 2024.indd 5
Car Mechanics 5
February 2024
05/01/2024 13:54
T R E P X E T N A T S IN
Follow Rob on Twitter: #CarTechJourno
An INTRODUCTION to
SENSORS The considerable computing power within modern cars would be useless without sensors. With so many different types fitted to modern engines, Rob Marshall looks at how DIYers can examine, test and replace them.
C
An electrical sensor is a device that detects a particular physical parameter and converts it to an electrical signal. In automotive applications, this signal is measured and interpreted by a computer (or Electronic Control Unit).
ompared to those trundling around the UK road network, when this magazine debuted, current vehicles are computers on wheels. While it remains true that most of today’s cars retain internal combustion engines, and therefore, a degree of mechanical integrity, they are still controlled electrically. Much of this is down to necessity. With our roads becoming considerably busier, engines
had to become more fuel-efficient, reliable and powerful, while being less polluting. More accurate means of metering fuel and ignition were made possible only after replacing relatively imprecise mechanical distributors and carburettors with more accurate
electronic ignition and fuel injection. Early injected cars tended to use a single computer/Electronic Control Unit, whereas current cars employ multiple ECUs that communicate together. Our investigations into both ECUs (August 2023 issue) and data
Use back-pinning probe adapters to take readings from the sensor pins. They insert into the multiple’s rear face, between the wire insulation and the connector seals, behind the multi-plug terminals. This avoids damaging the cable, wiring insulation and the delicate sensor pins.
A Potentiometer is a variable resistor, usually utilising three electrical connectors; a power supply, a ground and one pin for the signal. Potentiometers tend to be used as a means to measure the position of a component, to which it is attached physically. You can find them on the suspension, for instance, where ride-height is used to adjust headlight dip beam angles.
Regardless of whether the sensor of interest has an analogue, or digital signal, consider that the sensor itself might not be to blame. Damaged electrical connectors, chewed wiring, corroded pins, or breached waterproofing may be the root cause.
6 Car Mechanics SENSORS main sell.indd 6
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:31
An introduction to sensors networking (November 2023 issue) explain how all of these systems work. Yet, without some kind of measuring hardware, there would be little point in all of this processing power.
Enter the sensor With the need to detect anything from movement to pressures and temperatures, a modern motorcar possesses hundreds of different sensors. As space precludes us from including all of them, this feature’s focus is to provide a basic introduction to sensors that monitor primarily the engine, fuel system and exhaust gases. Should one of these sensors develop an occasional, or permanent fault, the situation would likely cause the engine management indicator lamp (MIL) to illuminate, the presence of which is an MOT Test failure. Yet, consider that they do not operate in isolation and that sensor data is used by more than one ECU on modern cars. Furthermore, an engine management ECU, for instance, will consider inputs from other sensors that are not situated beneath the bonnet, such as those that measure wheel speeds. As heat, vibration and moisture are anathemas to electronics, it is amazing that sensors are so reliable. One reason for this is that most of them are sealed units, meaning that they can be neither dismantled, nor repaired. Yet, they fail eventually. Corroded, or damaged wiring aside, there tends to be no way of telling whether a sensor itself is functional, or a dud, just by looking at it. So, what can you do?
Uncovering the mystery Helping us understand the secrets of sensors is Hella – a respected brand that will be familiar to many readers. As the company supplies car factories with components, the sensors that it distributes as replacement parts are made to the same standards as those specified by vehicle manufacturers. This is important, because replacement sensor quality is a known challenge. While a cheaper copy sensor might look the same on the outside and will fit physically, the internal parts may not be to the correct specification. The result is incorrect signals being sent to the ECU from the very start. Therefore, resist the temptation to buy the cheapest sensor you can from unknown sellers on online marketplaces. Prioritise originalequipment quality wherever possible. Hella also warns about problems diagnosing sensors. Most readers are, of course, familiar with On-Board Diagnostics, which involves plugging shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SENSORS main sell.indd 7
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR The wheel speed sensor has become vital, because so many systems rely on having accurate vehicle speed data, including the engine management system. As they are exposed to the elements, they also require periodic replacement. As with cam and crankshaft sensors (see steps D1 and D2), they work either inductively, or digitally. On the inductive types, the voltage and amplitude increase with vehicle speed, so you can back-pin the electrical connector to measure voltage. On digital types you will need an oscilloscope. Note also that many cars have speed sensors incorporated within the wheel bearing assembly.
hand-held diagnostic equipment into the standardised port to not just read fault codes but also to check real-time data. Hella advises that this data might not be reliable, because it has been processed. The main way of telling whether a sensor is faulty, or not, is to test the component directly. Fortunately, extracting accurate data from home is possible with analogue sensors, They work by varying resistance that alters the voltage. Therefore, by referring back to O Level/GCSE Physics theory and using Ohm’s Law (Voltage = Resistance x Current), all you need is a decent-quality multimeter. Analogue sensors have relatively slow response times – unlike digital sensors. These require an oscilloscope, because their ability to switch on and off (frequency) is faster than a typical multimeter can measure. When testing digital components, frequency is the measurement you seek, neither voltage, nor resistance. Frequency is measured in Hertz (Hz), one of which is an on/
off signal per second. Even so, verifying the correct supply voltage and a good ground/earth are also important, so you know that the circuit is in good order. Consider, however, that any figure you measure might be useless, unless you can find reference values for comparison. Such information can be difficult for DIYers to access, because it depends on the vehicle. This is why this article provides some general guidance values. Unfortunately, the arrival of sensors that feed back a pulse-width modulation digital signal requires an oscilloscope for accurate testing – a tool that most DIYers do not possess, and many garages do not understand how to use. Multimeters are inappropriate, because they do not refresh sufficiently quickly, because the signal’s frequency is too fast. Therefore, with digital sensors, relying on live data from onboard diagnostics may be your only hope. Yet, it may be worth having a particularly expensive sensor tested by a knowledgeable garage, or an auto electrician, to confirm its integrity.
AIR SENSORS
MAF (Mass Air A1 The Flow) sensor tells
the engine management how much air is entering the engine, so it can calculate the appropriate quantity of fuel to inject into the engine for optimum combustion. The MAF sensor tends to be mounted to the air intake between the air filter box and the inlet manifold.
Car Mechanics 7
February 2024
07/01/2024 11:31
An introduction to sensors
ROB’S TOP TIP
WHEN A SENSOR IS A PEDAL
Research your car’s wiring diagrams.
The throttle position sensor tends to be incorporated within the throttle/accelerator pedal itself. The electrical connector tends to comprise six pins; two 5-volts power supplies and two signal wires to the ECU. Two grounds are also required to serve each potentiometer; one is required for partial throttle, the other for full throttle. Yet, where each potentiometer shares a common ground, you will encounter a five-pin connector. This throttle pedal is a Hella item that fits a wide variety of Volkswagen Group cars, from 2003-2015.
AIR SENSORS CONTINUED
is an early ‘hot wire’ analogue sensor. These work by A2 This an electrical current being applied to a well-supported and protected wire. The airflow is calculated by the wire temperature. These MAF sensors tend to be fitted to older cars and work on the PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) principle, meaning that the electrical resistance output signal to the ECU rises with wire temperature.
older MAF sensors tend to possess electrical connectors A3 These with four pins. One for the 12-volt DC power supply, one for
ground/earth (shared between the Intake Air Temperature sensor and MAF), one as a signal wire for the MAF back to the ECU and another signal wire for the IAT. Generally, you can test these units for serviceability using a voltmeter. At engine idle, expect 1-1.5-volts at the signal wire. If you blip the throttle and snap it shut, you should record ~4-volts.
with many other sensors, MAF sensors have become A5 As increasingly sophisticated, smaller, more accurate and reliable.
old-style sensors suffer from dirt acting as an insulator A4 These on the wire, which results in an incorrect signal to be generated.
Engine wear and poor servicing (especially not replacing the air filter on time) tend to be the main causes. Most units self-clean, by applying very high-voltage periodically to burn away these deposits, resulting in the wire hitting close to 1000°C. While MAF cleaning sprays are available, some types leave a film on the wire. In any case, Hella does not recommend them, overall.
8 Car Mechanics SENSORS main sell.indd 8
February 2024
This diminutive unit is for 2006-2014 Ford cars. The main difference is that they tend to employ NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient), where resistance falls with temperature, unlike PTC. Unfortunately, they are impossible to DIY test with a multimeter, because they work digitally, using Pulse Width Modulation PWM. A typical signal frequency (ie. the rate at which the signal switches on and off) is approximately 2.5kHz (2500Hz) at idle and 6.5kHz at full throttle. As a typical multimeter refreshes four times per second, it has no chance of recording an accurate reading. A voltmeter is also useless. Instead, you need both oscilloscope and data to compare against the reading, both of which tend to be out of the hands of the typical home mechanic.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:31
An introduction to sensors Like analogue MAF A6 sensors, digital versions tend
to possess four-pin connectors. They also fail due to the same reasons; lack of maintenance, contamination, internal circuit failure and even water ingress. Digital MAF sensors appear to be more robust than their analogue counterparts. Even so, should either fail, use an OE-quality part from a reputable supplier. Should a MAF sensor go A7 faulty, the ECU is likely to
enter a default value and illuminate the Engine Malfunction Lamp (MIL). Typical signs of a failed MAF sensor include a lack of power and high fuel consumption. A common code may be P0101. You might also find an intake temperature fault, too. bodies once were very A9 Throttle bulky – this one is from a BMW
5-series model up to 2004 (E39). Its 10-pin connector supplies one ECU. While the throttle butterfly is operated by a motor, a ‘classic’ throttle cable connects the other end of the butterfly shaft, where the throttle position potentiometer sensors are also sited. cars may use alternative A8 Some methods of detecting airflow. This
engine uses the pictured air temperature sensor in the intake (this one works on the NTC principle), coupled with a sensor within the ECU that calculates ambient air pressure. From these data points, the ECU calculates air density and, therefore, the quantity of oxygen available to burn with the fuel.
throttle bodies went fully A10 Later electrically-controlled, ie.
‘fly-by-wire’. This led to the bodies becoming simpler. One of the first changes involved having the butterfly shaft protruding further into a potentiometer, as pictured left. A later development saw further miniaturisation, where a pair of potentiometers are integrated into the throttle body motor.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SENSORS main sell.indd 9
fuel-injected cars possessed rotary-type air/idle control A11 Early valves, which permit a metered quantity of air into the inlet
at idle speed to compensate for sudden loads, such as that inflicted suddenly by a Power Assisted Steering Pump, or an air-conditioning compressor. The internal motor rotates only half a turn in each direction. They use either two, or three, connections, depending on whether the system employs single ground (which uses a spring to return the value to its closed position), or twin ground (which rotates the motor electrically both clock and counter clockwise). The other connection serves as the positive feed.
Car Mechanics 9
February 2024
07/01/2024 11:31
An introduction to sensors
ROB’S TOP TIP
If possible, research sensor parameters, against which you can compare your readings.
AIR SENSORS CONTINUED
valves are controlled by the A12 These engine ECU. They tend to carbon-up
and stick, causing the idle speed to fluctuate, or even an engine stall. This example is the later electromagnetic idle speed control valve, fitted to various Fords from 1995-2008, which is controlled by the engine ECU but its two-pin connector indicates that it does not possess a valve position sensor.
this smaller and more modern idle-control valve A13 However, uses a stepper motor. Its four-pin connector indicates that
an internal potentiometer monitors the valve position – and this information is fed back to the engine ECU. This example is fitted to various GM Vauxhalls, into the early 2000s.
FUEL SENSORS
most obvious sensor for fuelling is the gauge unit, which B1 The tends to be incorporated with a low-pressure fuel pump unit
within the fuel tank. Usually, they employ a variable resistance track, although the signal tends to be fed to an ECU first, before being used for not only the gauge but for other functions, such as particulate filter regeneration. We advise against removing the unit for DIY testing, due to the obvious safety risk of combining electricity with naked fuel.
fuel metering valve, pictured on a 2018 Skoda Octavia B2 The TDI, measures fuel flow. It works digitally via PWM – ie. the
signal comprises a series of fast on-and-off pulses. The internal valve can stick and stop inducing a signal, causing a lack of engine power and a potential limp-home mode being activated, accompanied by a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Poor fuel quality and ignoring fuel filter change intervals are the main culprits.
Diesel high-pressure B3 common-rails possess
a pressure sensor. The wiring comprises a 5-volts supply, a signal and ground. Generally, these sensors are analogue, not digital, and can be diagnosed by measuring the voltage at the signal wire, assuming that the circuit integrity is good. With the ignition on but the engine off, look for around 0.5-volts. Start the engine and notice a reading of 1.2 to 1.3-volts at idle speed. When snapping the throttle shut, a linear rise of around 3-3.5-volts is to be expected in most situations. Pictured is a fuel pressure B4 sensor on a cutaway Land Rover Ingenium 2.0-litre petrol engine. As modern GDI
(Gasoline Direct Injection) engines also employ high-pressure fuelling, they also require sensors that feed information back to the ECU on fuel pressure for accurate metering.
10 Car Mechanics SENSORS main sell.indd 10
February 2024
Continued on page
12
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:31
KIT & CLASSIC CAR PARTS SPECIALIST
ISSUE 36 OUT NOW!
ORDER YOUR COPY FROM OUR WEBSITE
www.carbuilder.com Contains Wiring Diagrams Hints & Tips Installation Guides Specification Charts IVA Approved Products
7500+ PRODUCTS
AVAILABLE FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY Contact Information: 01580 891309 info@carbuilder.com Redlands, TN12 0JJ, UK
Issue 36 Advert.indd 1
98% Positive Feedback from our great customers
25/04/2023 11:28:22
An introduction to sensors
ROB’S TOP TIP Should a garage identify worn sensors, ask if they have tested them thoroughly.
SAFETYRELATED SENSORS While this feature focusses mainly on engine sensors, do not forget those that are safetyrelated. While auto-light and auto-windscreen sensors have a manual override, you may not pay too much attention to them, if all they do is save you from flicking a switch. Yet, on newer cars, they perform more important functions, too, about which you might be unaware. They may provide the Advanced Driver Assistance Systems (ADAS) with data, for instance. Hella recommends that rain and light sensors be replaced whenever the windscreen is renewed. This is because many of them possess an adhesive face that is not designed to be swapped between old and new glazing. ADAS sensors also require calibrating after any steering, or suspension, repairs – which is a topic that is worth considering but is not covered within this feature.
FUEL SENSORS CONTINUED
fuel control valve can develop B6 The an internal short circuit, or the valve
other side of the common-rail possesses a fuel control valve, which bleeds excess fuel B5 The from the common-rail and back to the tank. While it is a solenoid, not a sensor, should
it stick, the fuel pressure within the rail will deviate from the expected parameters. Be wary of blaming the fuel pressure sensor, when the fuel control valve is the real culprit.
can jam physically. Aside from old age, its life is curtained for the same reasons as the pressure sensor – poor grade fuel and skipped maintenance. The fuel control valve possesses a two-wire connector, whereas the pressure sensor tends to employ three wires.
EXHAUST SENSORS
Absolute C2 Manifold Pressure (MAP)
with turbochargers can have C1 Cars multiple sensors. A MAF sensor
might be fitted with an additional boost pressure sensor and intake air temperature sensor, mounted to the intake, close to the intercooler. These sensors also fail, not helped by being clogged with intake gases from the exhaust gas recirculation system. Should you note a boost pressure fault, it is not a bad idea to have the system checked for leaks. A permeable intake system is also a major cause of particulate filter blockages, so be wary of blaming the sensor alone.
12 Car Mechanics SENSORS main sell.indd 12
February 2024
sensors are similar, in that the data collected assesses engine load, because the inlet manifold vacuum reduces as the engine works harder. MAP sensors tend to be positioned on the intake manifold and have four-pin connectors. One of these services a 5-volts supply, another is the ground, while the other one is for the ECU signal. The fourth pin is employed by MAP sensors with integral intake air temperature sensors which tend to work on the NTC principle.
turbo boost pressure sensors, C3 Like contamination from intake fumes
damages the sensor, especially if there is an EGR valve fault, or the engine has intake valve/ seat damage, so they do not seal properly. On analogue MAP sensors, where an oscilloscope is not needed, expect to see around 1.5-volts at the signal pin, when the engine is idling. Opening and snapping the throttle shut should see your voltage measurement peak to, approximately, 3.5-volts.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:31
An introduction to sensors
GLOW PLUGS Diesel glow plugs can be self-sensing, where the engine ECU expects to receive certain resistance values that indicate that their heating elements are intact. Some cars possess separate control units and relays, the more advanced versions of which use digital PWM signals. However, some Volkswagen Group, BMW/MINI and General Motors diesel engines from 2010 may employ a pressure sensor within a single glow plug on the engine. You can identify it, by the plug being fed by multiple wires. These comprise a piezo-resistive pressure sensor that produces an electrical signal to feed back to the ECU, so fuelling and engine timing can be adjusted for optimum performance and emissions.
to the extremely inhospitable C6 Due environment, treat EGT sensors as
consumables. They can also suffer from physical damage, including the end probe becoming detached from the sensor body. Cheap copy parts of dubious origin are, therefore, false economies. will tend to find multiple exhaust C5 You gas temperature (EGT) sensors. This
equipped with variable vane C4 Cars geometry turbochargers will possess an analogue vane position sensor. Should the vanes stick from carbon contamination, a fault code will be set. They tend to possess three wires: a 5-volts power supply, ground and signal.
is another EGT sensor, C7 This photographed downstream of the
turbocharger, post-catalytic converter but before the diesel particulate filter. Such sensors can be tested using a relatively inexpensive infrared temperature monitoring device to measure the temperature of the housing and compare the reading with the EOBD live data. Should you suspect a power supply issue, trace the wiring and check for the presence of a 5-volts supply.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SENSORS main sell.indd 13
one is situated in the turbocharger, where temperatures can approach 2000°C. Most types employ NTC, although some rely on PTC. NTC sensors tend to have a working range of up 5-volts, with between 3.4- and 4-volts being a typical signal output from a good condition sensor at ambient temperature. This voltage will reduce as the engine warms.
maximise C8 To the chance of
removing an EGT sensor without rounding its bolt head, avoid using open-ended spanners; invest instead in a set of crowfeet. These wrenches permit you to use a torque wrench, so you can ensure that the replacement sensor is tightened correctly.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) C9 Many valves contain an internal position sensor,
so the engine ECU can identify the valve position and, therefore, how much exhaust gas to admit into the intake to suppress NOx emissions. They tend to possess five wires; the three thinner ones of which identify those for the position sensor. There is a 5-volts supply, signal and ground for the position sensor. The final two comprise a 12-volts supply to the motor and a PWM signal wire leading to the ECU.
Car Mechanics 13
February 2024
07/01/2024 11:31
An introduction to sensors
ROB’S TOP TIP Buy sensors from well-established brands and suppliers with a good warranty.
EXHAUST SENSORS CONTINUED
EGRs possess a pressure sensor, C10 Some too. The wiring comprises a 5-volts
supply, a signal and ground. They measure the positive pressure within a working EGR system, which the ECU calculates to vary the pressure within the EGR system for optimum results. This process is controlled by opening or closing the EGR valve gradually. Poor idling, MIL illumination, engine hesitation, a loss of power and high emissions are typical problem signs.
2 sensors measure the C12 Lambda/O oxygen contact within the exhaust
EGR cooler temperature sensor C11 The tends to use a two-wire connector.
One wire is for the signal voltage; the other is for the power supply. Like the pressure sensor, EGR temperature sensors tend to employ NTC.
gases and feed the information back to the engine management system, which adjusts the fuelling to obtain the optimum 14.7:1 fuel/air mixture. The majority of modern petrol cars possess a pair: one positioned before the catalytic converter regulates fuel supply and the ‘post-cat’ sensor verifies the catalytic converter efficiency.
Most O2 sensors are of the heated type, so they can achieve C13 their working temperatures of ~300°C quickly and employ four
wires. The two thicker cables are for the heater circuit and the PWM signal. The other two comprise a ground and a signal wire that sends a voltage back to the ECU. While they fail with age, engine oil and coolant are sure O2 sensor killers. Typical failure modes include a MIL light with multiple fault codes, poor fuel economy, misfiring and poor performance. Testing the sensor is not easy. You can assess the heater circuit integrity with a multimeter to ensure that the coil has not broken. Hella advises that, for Zirconia-type sensors, you need an oscilloscope to ensure that the sensor frequency, typically, cycles between 0.1 and 0.8-volts and back to 0.1-volts every second; ie. a minimum frequency of 1Hz. In many cases, you measure this from the black wire, with the engine hot, holding 2000rpm.
sensors tend to be fitted to most Euro VI diesel vehicles, C14 NOx as an essential part of the SCR/AdBlue system. Some cars are
experiencing relatively high failure rates and there have been problems with sourcing replacement parts across multiple brands. Typical fault codes range from P2200-P2225 and an impending engine non-start countdown fascia message. Unfortunately, DIY testing is very difficult, not helped by the vehicle’s CAN bus system. First, you need to identify the relevant wires, so you can check for a power supply. The other tests require an oscilloscope to detect whether a signal is being sent to the ECU. For more information on NOx sensors, consult our May 2023 back issue. you cannot find the C16 Ifprecise specifications for
diesel cars employ sensors that detect the pressures C15 Modern on either side of the diesel particulate filter (differential
pressure sensor), to help the ECU to calculate soot loadings. Assuming that the pressure pipes are neither blocked, nor leaking, measure the voltage to check the sensor’s integrity. Most types have three pins, a ground, a 5-volts supply and one that serves a signal wire that transmits the voltage to the ECU.
14 Car Mechanics SENSORS main sell.indd 14
February 2024
your car, you should expect to measure the following voltages: For around 40% soot loading, when a passive regeneration is likely to be triggered, expect approximately 2.4 volts at the signal connector. For a very full DPF (60-70% soot loading), expect around 3.5 volts. Perform an on-car DPF clean (as per our January 2024 issue) and note that the signal voltage falls with the reduced pressures.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:32
THANKS TO:
ENGINE SENSORS
Analogue cam and D1 crankshaft sensors work
on the inductive principle. These give a wave-type oscilloscope signal. When a steel-toothed wheel rotates nearby, it induces a voltage into a coil of wire within the sensor. These types of sensors do not require power sources. The induced voltage, which differs between manufacturers, is fed back to the engine management ECU. Most issues are caused by the coil breaking down inside the sensor, causing an engine non-start situation, or very rough running. Sometimes, a cam sensor failure causes the ECU to flag a crankshaft sensor failure, too. A MIL would likely be deployed, too.
HELLA https://cat.hella.com/web/ public/hella/en/index.xhtml www.hella.com/techworld/uk/ Laser Tools The Tool Collection Ltd., Kineton Road, Southam, Warwickshire CV47 0DR. 01926 815000 www.lasertools.co.uk
However, more modern engines D2 use digital sensors, based on the
hall-effect principle. These give a square wave oscilloscope output. While the analogue and digital sensors can look very similar, they are very different internally. Digital sensors possess an internal printed circuit board and require a 5-volts power supply; hence the three-pin connector, rather than two. Unlike the analogue type, therefore, they can detect crank/cam positions even when the engine is stationary, making them ideal for Stop-Start, or hybrid vehicles. Typical fault codes indicate either a problem with the sensor, or a correlation mismatch between the crank and camshaft positions.
temperature sensors have D3 Fluid been used for many decades. The
picture shows one for the coolant, where the information is relevant not just for the instrument panel but is vital for engine management. They work, by varying their internal resistance according to temperature, using NTC. If you cannot find the precise values for your car, you can measure the resistance with a multimeter and compare them against these general values: 2.0-6.0 KOhm at 25°C, or 300 Ohm at 80°C. Knock sensors are bolted to the D5 engine block and detect violent
explosions within spark-ignition engine cylinders, which causes damage compared with controlled burning. They possess two wires; a ground and a signal voltage to the ECU, which tends to take action, including retarding the ignition timing. They tend to be reliable, although ECU fault codes, relating to the knock sensor, have been known on abused engines, run with low oil levels. A simple sensor test is to tap the side of the block and note any change in engine tone, although an oscilloscope measurement is a preferred and more accurate test method. Oil level sensors D6 have the advantage of
crankshaft sensor has three D4 This wires, indicating that it is also a
digital hall-effect sensor and so it has a power supply (can be 5 or 12-volts), a ground and a 5-volts signal. The pick-up point can be on a crankshaft web, rather than a toothed wheel. These systems can be so sensitive that they can detect minute variations in crankshaft speed, caused by a misfire.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SENSORS main sell.indd 15
detecting low levels of lubricant whenever the engine is running above -10°C. Some types are bolted to the crankcase, although a more modern Packaged Ultrasonic Level Sensor utilises a probe that detects both levels and oil temperatures by emitting and receiving ultrasonic waves. This means that they need to be bolted to the sump base. Note the three-pin connector: denoting a 5-volts supply, ground and a signal.
Car Mechanics 15
February 2024
07/01/2024 11:32
An introduction to sensors
ENGINE SENSORS CONTINUED
BATTERY SENSORS Intelligent Battery Sensors are crucial for the entire electrical system, especially for the effective operation of Start-Stop systems, not just 12-volts battery longevity. IBS also features an anti-surge shield, to protect the wiring loom against overheating. Fixed to the negative battery terminal, it assesses both the battery’s state of charge and remaining capacity (health). The only way to test them is to use a DC amp clamp to measure current flow and see if the meter reading matches that from the live on-board diagnostics.
E1
Voltage surges destroy the sensor’s circuitry. Careless jump-starting, such as connecting leads directly to the negative terminal, rather than a dedicated post, is a popular error. If charging the battery on the vehicle, it is advisable to disconnect the negative terminal. Electrical short circuits, or connecting the battery incorrectly, will also damage the IBS, at the very least. As modern AGM batteries are expensive but last a relatively long time, Hella recommends that you replace the IBS and its cable at the same time, to ensure that your costly new battery is kept at its optimum charge level for maximum life.
E2
that the oil D7 Providing change intervals are
followed, the correct oil used, and no internal mechanical failure occurs, oil level sensors are robust components. Only after many years and high mileages do they fail internally. Thankfully, replacement sensors are available from quality suppliers, such as Hella.
SUBSCRIBE TODAY THE LATEST NEWS, BUYING GUIDES, PRACTICAL ADVICE, HOW TO ARTICLES AND OWNER’S STORIES FROM THE CLASSIC CAR SCENE TO SUBSCRIBE : GO TO SHOP.KELSEY.CO.UK/CMT OR USE THIS QR CODE TO GO DIRECTLY TO OUR WEBSITE
16 Car Mechanics SENSORS main sell.indd 16
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:32
As an independent body, VLS is here to protect you by verifying lubricant specifications. That means you can have confidence that the engine oil you use in your vehicle will perform as expected and can do what it claims.
Protecting you and your vehicle www.ukla-vls.org.uk
If you have any concerns about a lubricant product, report them to us on 01442 875922 or admin@ukla-vls.org.uk
CM Insider
Martyn Knowles brings you news and product reviews from the automotive industry
Duckhams Oils celebrates successful global expansion drive The original British motor oil, Duckhams, is celebrating the success of its global expansion drive, doubling its global network over the past 12 months. The iconic oil brand is now available in 27 countries across Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Duckhams has a long history dating back to 1899, when Alexander Duckham first established his own oil company. Duckhams was responsible for the development of revolutionary new process oils that controlled the build-up of carbon deposits in the 1920s and launched the first synchromesh gear oil in the 1930s. In 1951, Duckhams introduced Europe's first multi-grade oil, an innovation which transformed lubrication technology. After moving to new ownership, Duckhams received support during a successful UK relaunch in 2017. Along with new packaging and branding, Duckhams began an expansion drive to bring the original British motor oil to markets worldwide. By
2020, Duckhams was already available in several Asian markets, including Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand, UAE and Jordan. Over the past three years, expansion has stepped up a gear, with the network doubling from 13 countries at the end of 2022 to 27 countries as 2023 drew to a close. Notable launches include Ireland, Germany, Spain, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Poland, Cyprus and Malta. Several Asian countries, including Oman, Qatar, Taiwan and Kuwait, have also come on board. Duckhams Chairman Jabir Sheth said, "As we enter our 125th anniversary year, we will continue to innovate and extend Duckhams' reach to new global markets. Born in Britain. Raised where you are. Duckhams is such an iconic, well-loved brand, and I am delighted to see it winning on a worldwide stage. Duckhams was present in more than 60 countries, and we are reclaiming the legacy markets where workshops and consumers fondly recall us.”
SEALEY introduces exciting Tool Promotion Featuring over 1400 products and a chance to WIN a Premium Garage Essentials Bundle The latest Tool Promotion from Sealey runs from 1st January 2024 and is valid to 31st March 2024.
www.sealey.co.uk
Discover amazing new seasonal offers in the latest edition of the Tool Promotion from SEALEY, showcasing an extensive collection of over 1400 products and 60 new lines. This edition focuses on Vehicle Maintenance, Heaters, and Lighting but, as always, you will find discounts on selected products across all their ranges, ensuring you find the perfect deal inside!
Innovative vehicle maintenance solutions: Innovative additions have been added to their vehicle service range, like the AK527 Bumping Mallet, designed with a hex head shape for evenly distributed force, and the AK528 Dashboard Protection Set, perfect for use during windscreen removal. SEALEY has also launched the AK9991 Digital Inclinometer with laser line for measuring angles and tilt percentages. With its four magnetic sides, the inclinometer can firmly attach to metal surfaces, while the compact size ensures the angle gauge can fit into any tight spot. The tool provides convenience for many tasks including setting suspension camber and caster, collision avoidance bumper mounted radar and parking assist systems.
Discover handy new products: The promotion introduces two new impact socket sets in 3/8in and 1/2in sq Drive. Both comprehensive sets include colour-coded rings and enlarged socket size text for fast identification.
Enter for a chance to WIN a Premium Garage Essentials Bundle: One lucky entrant will win this bumper prize comprising of a trolley jack, axle stands, creeper, impact wrench, inspection lamp and a selection of hand tools. By entering online, participants will have a chance to win the incredible garage essentials bundle, valued at over £800. To discover all the new products and exciting discounts featured in the latest Tool Promotion and to seize the opportunity to win this coveted bundle, visit their website: www.sealey.co.uk
February 2024
18 Car Mechanics Insider FEBRUARY 2024.indd 18
09/01/2024 16:45
CM Insider
Have a new product to market? Send details to cm.ed@kelsey.co.uk
News in Brief
Melett warns that loose shaft nuts playing increased role in turbocharger failures Turbo specialist Melett has highlighted the devastating consequences of loose shaft nuts within turbocharger assemblies, warning to be wary of the effects. If a vehicle is suffering from rattling or grinding noises during operation, and drivers experience loss of engine power, this could be due to a loose shaft nut on the turbocharger. In a turbocharger assembly, the shaft nut, also known as a ‘locknut’ or an ‘impeller locknut’, plays a critical role in holding the compressor wheel and rotor group parts to the shaft. To ensure proper functionality, the shaft nut must be tightened using the correct procedure and setting. If there is any kind of resistance or locking up within the rotor, the centrifugal force will continue, and the shaft nut will come loose. Overspeeding can cause excessive radial expansion of the impeller wheel but shortens its length. This relaxes the tension on the shaft, which in turn results in loosening of the shaft nut. Foreign object damage to the compressor or turbine wheel can affect the balance of the assembly, which may cause abrasion with the housing and loosen the shaft nut. A blockage in the oil feed pipe can cause the bearing system to 'grab' onto the shaft, preventing it from rotating, this in turn causes the shaft nut to loosen. What’s more, scoring to bearings, potentially caused by oil contamination, allows the impeller wheel to rub and ‘stall’ against the housing, eventually loosening the shaft nut. It is also important to note that in most turbochargers, the shaft nut thread direction is opposite to the direction of rotation on the shaft. Contact melett_enquiries@ wabtec.com to find your local repair specialist or visit www.melett.com
LKQ Academy’s January sale The aftermarket’s leading training provider, LKQ Academy is offering 25% off a range of courses this month giving garages a head start on upskilling in 2024. The standout course included in this offer is the IMI level 2/3 Hybrid and EV training. With 72% of techs yet to be trained, this is a must have. LKQ Academy offers more than 80 different courses, covering everything from technical skills to business management, and innovative courses like “technical for non-technical staff” – designed to help front-of-house team members grow their knowledge and deepen trust with customers, and included in the January sale. Training is delivered across more than 25 UK sites, including brand new LKQ training centres in Glasgow and Manchester, with two more state-of-the-art centres due to open in the next six months, in Tamworth and Reading. Garages and technicians can also take advantage of LKQ Academy memberships, that start from just £649. The most popular individual membership costs £999 – which includes unlimited training. If you want to see how the helpline can support you take up the one month free trial by visiting www.lkqacademy.co.uk
Three new Clarke Micro Jump Starts! Small enough to fit in your glovebox, but powerful enough to save the day and keep you on the move, Machine Mart’s range of Clarke Micro Jump Starts are essential bits of kit for anyone who relies on their vehicle for travel! Now, Machine Mart can announce that three new models have hit the shelves to help you get through the winter months. JSM600 JSM1000 JSM1200 Max Engine Starting (Diesel) 2.0-litre 2.5-litre 3.0-litre Max Engine Starting (Petrol) 4.0-litre 5.0-litre 5.5-litre Peak Amps 600 1000 1200 Starting Boost (Amps) 300 500 600 Lithium Polymer Battery Size 7.2Ah 10Ah 12Ah 5V USB Output Yes Yes Yes LED Torch Yes Yes Yes Weight (without leads) 300g 365g 498g Price (inc VAT) £59.98 £71.98 £83.98 As well as being perfect for starting either petrol or diesel engines, all three new models have USB 5V charging capability which makes them ideal for charging phones, cameras or tablets. A 3-way device adaptor cable is included, with iPhone Lightning, USB C and Micro USB outputs to suit most mobile phone connectors. The JSM600 has one USB slot whereas the larger JSM1000 and JSM1200 models both contain two. Each model also comes with a powerful LED torch with the choice of Illumination, Strobe and SOS modes in case of emergencies. All three come supplied with a heavy-duty smart cable with clamps, 12V USB car adaptor, and 3-in-1 USB to Micro USB/Lightning/USB-C cable. The JSM600 also comes with a USB-C to USB-A charging cable, whilst the JSM1000 and JSM1200 are both sold with a handy carry case. Each unit has a 12-month Manufacturer’s Warranty.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Insider FEBRUARY 2024.indd 19
News in Brief
Exol Lubricants makes £1m investment to reduce waste Leading lubricants and oils supplier Exol Lubricants has invested one million pounds into a state-of-the-art automated liquid transfer system, delivered to reduce waste product lost during the blending process. Following investigative work into product losses during production, a new, sustainable project called a Pigging Line has been installed at Exol Lubricants’ blending plant in Rotherham. Pigging refers to technologies that use specialist projectiles to recover, rather than waste, residual liquid in pipelines. Liquid product recovery is used to reclaim product from pipelines, to reduce waste, increase yields and capacity, and improve the efficiency of manufacturing and production processes. Simon Matthews, Product Development Manager at Exol Lubricants, comments: “Following the initial commissioning process, losses of up to 50,000 litres per day have been recovered, with multiple transfers speeding up loading times by up to 50%. “The projectile that is used in the pipeline makes a squeal similar to a pig when in use, which gives the system its moniker.” For more information on Exol Lubricants, visit: https://www.exollubricants.com/
COMPETITION WINNERS GAS HEATERS N HILL P RICHARDSON D HINDS Q What is the weight in kilogrammes of the Devil 700? A 5.3kg
Car Mechanics 19
February 2024
09/01/2024 16:45
Tales from the workshop Fixing advice from our garage proprietor Steve Rothwell AUDI A3
Fuel filter change
I have probably mentioned before, but the smell and feel of diesel is not one of my favourite things. Changing the diesel filter on some vehicles can be a messy business. The fuel filter on a wide range of VAG vehicles such as this 2009 Audi A3 1.9 TDI is, though, a much easier job than many, and the bonus is that the bleeding out of the filter is simple and normally goes without any problems. Having said that I did once have a filter housing top that refused to seal, and I have also come across them with the securing screws damaged. The process on this Audi was painless and once the old filter had been removed and the housing cleaned out, the new filter and seal were fitted. The top can then be secured down, and the bleeding process is to simply turn the ignition on, wait a few seconds, before turning it off and on again a The diesel fuel filter on the Audi few times, this allows the in-tank pump to push A3 is easily accessed and simple the new fuel through into the filter and the air is to change and bleed though. forced back through the return to the tank. The sound of the returning fuel can normally be heard confirming that the system is bled, and the engine can be started.
HONDA CIVIC TYPE R
MERCEDESBENZ VITO
ABS sensor blown apart
Alternator pulley
When the ABS light came up on this 2005 Honda Civic 2.0 Type R, the owner was hoping that it may go off again of its own accord, but a week’s motoring later and the light had continued to show. At this stage the owner knew it was going to need attention and so they phoned me to book the Honda in for the needed work. Once it arrived the scanner was plugged in, and the problem was displayed as the right front speed sensor open circuit. Normally a few more checks would have been made to ensure this was not a connection or wiring problem, but once I saw the condition of the sensor, I was in little doubt that it needed changing. The body of the sensor had been knocked out exposing the copper coils, I suspect that debris thrown up from the road had come between the sensor on the pick-up ring, pushing it out of place. The new sensor was ordered up and fitted, and after a short run up the road the ABS system had reset, and the light was off.
One of the big changes over the past few years is to the technology of the humble alternator pulley. Instead of being a fixed drive, the modern alternator pulley on a wide range of vehicles now has a clutch or overrunning alternator pulley – this is The pulley can be also described as a decoupler. This is fitted to improve the smooth operation changed in situ and help with fuel consumption and like without the need to remove the alternator everything its great till things go wrong. from the vehicle. This Vito was becoming a little sluggish to start in the mornings and the owner decided to go out and get a new battery – that solved the problem for around three weeks then it returned to the sluggish starting. He popped in to ask me to check the charging. I discovered that the battery was only charging up to a point, then when revving the motor up the battery voltage dropped back to 12.4 volts. At this point I was suspicious that the alternator over-run pulley may be the source of the van’s problems. Removing the auxiliary drive belt, I was then confident from the feel of the pulley that this was the issue. The pulley is available separately and can be replaced in situ. Once fitted and with the auxiliary belt back in place, the charging rate was again checked. This time it continued to show over 14 volts when the engine was revved.
The old sensor had blown apart possibly as the result of debris pushing it out – or it may have been frost damage.
20 Car Mechanics
February 2024
Workshop Tales FEBRUARY 2024.indd 20
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 09:08
Tales from the Workshop Follow Steve on Twitter: www.twitter. com/cmtips
ROVER 25
Battery clamp bolt
BMW 3SERIES
The parking brake shoes had worn down and the brake disc was in a poor condition. Once renewed, the parking brake and the foot brake efficiency were improved.
Parking brake shoes The parking brake on this 2010 BMW 320d had been making a few strange noises for a little while now, but the owner was not too disturbed all the time it did hold the motor on a hill. In theory the parking brake shoes on any vehicle that has a separate parking brake, should last a very long time – they should not be used to stop the vehicle but only to secure it when stationary. But some drivers do have a habit of pulling the handbrake up while still moving – and this owner from the condition of the parking brake shoes was possibly one of these drivers.
The parking brake had now deteriorated. Not only was it making a few more noises, but it was also not to be trusted when the BMW was parked on a hill. This escalation of the problem led the owner to bring the BMW in. Stripping off the rear brakes I advised new brake shoes, pads and brake discs were needed on the rear to bring things back to a reasonable standard, and the owner was happy to accept my recommendation. Once all back together I did also mention to the owner that being stationary before pulling up the handbrake would help ensure that things didn’t deteriorate so quickly again.
FORD TRANSIT
Bearing problems Some van owners treat their works van with the same attention they pay to the family vehicle. Others do not and consider it just a workhorse, and as long The hub bearing should have been attended as it’s going, then that to when the noise was first heard, but now good enough. it had failed completely and collapsed. The owner of this 2010 Ford Transit 2.4 TDCi had been hearing a noise from the front wheel for a little while, he had glanced at the brake pads, and they were good, and so no further thought was given to the source of the noise. That was until the noise developed and the volume increased. The next symptom that presented itself was that the brake pedal needed pumping before the brake would work. Realising that this issue did now need dealing with, the owner drove along to see me. Jacking the front up showed the nearside wheel to have an abundance of movement and it didn’t need the help of Sherlock Holmes to conclude that the front wheel bearing, which had been the source of the noise, had now collapsed. A new hub bearing and flange were needed to remedy the problem, and the owner decided that while it was in and stripped down a new set of brake discs and pads would also be a good option.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Workshop Tales FEBRUARY 2024.indd 21
Often the simple jobs can turn out to be a little more involved, and I was concerned that the battery change on this 2005 MG ZR was going to be one such job. The owner had called up and explained that the battery was flat and asked for a price for me to fit the replacement. While she was on the phone her other half shouted out to her that it was OK and after a jump-start the MG was now running. I did say that the battery would probably still need checking but she was happy that they could sort that out themselves. Then around four hours later I received a second call, we have the battery can you pop it on for us? I was slightly reluctant, but the owner was the daughter of one of my good customers, and so in the name of customer relations I agreed. She turned up with the new battery around thirty minutes later and I was prepared for corrosion or rounded of bolt heads, but no, the job was straightforward, and I got to keep the old battery for the scrap value, so a much better result than I was expecting, but as I was always told “expect the worst, hope for the best”.
The bolt securing the battery clamp did come undone without issue, but I was well aware that this bolt may have been corroded below.
Car Mechanics 21
February 2024
08/01/2024 09:08
Tales from the Workshop VOLKSWAGEN GOLF
The outer door panel is removed to expose the workings of the window.
Wound up window
The owner of this 2007 VW Golf had heard a few strange noises as he operated the driver’s window just before it packed up completely which he described as “crunchy sounds”. This description to me instantly made me think that the Bowden cable drive system was failing, and the noise was the breaking cable as it went around the drive unit of the window mechanism. Whilst the window motor is accessed from inside the vehicle after removing the door card, the access to the window mechanism on this Golf requires the outer door panel to be removed, which does sound quite strange, but in effect it is quite a good setup. The process of replacing the winder mechanism is given a book time of 1.1 hours. The removal of the outer door panel requires the outer door handle and the 18 securing screws to be removed, but once this is done the whole mechanism is accessible and unimpeded by any obstructions. The drop glass can be disconnected, and the drop glass removed, then the two window runners and the plate containing the motor and winder mechanism can be removed. The motor then needs to be disconnected from the old regulator plate, before fitting the new one. Once all back together the operation can be checked before replacing the outer door panel.
BMW 1SERIES
FIAT 500
Coolant keeps on leaking
Leaking clutch damper
For the past couple of months, the owner of this 2006 BMW 120d had been topping-up the coolant reservoir to ensure it maintained the correct level. At first it only required a small amount of coolant to keep the level correct, but over the past couple of weeks it had swallowed up the rest of the coolant he had purchased for the job. At this point he decided it was time to get the leak fixed and brought the 1-Series along to me. Before I had even got the system pressure tester in place, the stains left by the escaping coolant could easily be spotted. The water pump was surrounded with the pink dust left by the evaporating coolant. The job time for replacing the pump is 2.25 hours, but the danger on this one is that the securing bolts may also be corroded and sheer off when undoing. With the engine warm and a little penetrating fluid around the bolt heads before attempting to remove them the job did go without incident. Once the new pump was in place the job of bleeding out the system was completed, and the little BMW was once again back in good order. The traces of escaping coolant had left a pink dust around the water pump, but would the bolts come undone OK?
22 Car Mechanics
February 2024
Workshop Tales FEBRUARY 2024.indd 22
The feel of the clutch had been getting progressively worse for some months, but it was only when this little 2012 Fiat 500 0.9-litre, refused to go into gear that the owner decided it was going to get even worse if not attended to. Bracing herself for the cost of a new clutch, the owner asked me to have a look and give her a price for the repair. I could feel that the problem was hydraulic and knowing that the slave cylinder on this Fiat is external I was not expecting to have to remove the gearbox to fulfil the repair. My first check was to access the slave cylinder at the top of the gearbox, and I expected to find this in a mucky state with clutch fluid leaking out. To my surprise it did appear to be bone dry. I was next going to move onto checking the clutch master cylinder, but I then spotted that this Fiat had a clutch damper fitted in the hydraulic line. These are intended to help dampen any feedback from the clutch and ensure a smooth operation but can often be the source of clutch problems when they fail due to air entering the system. This unit is built into the clutch pipe, and once replaced and the system bled out, the clutch operation was returned to its former self. The clutch damper was leaking, and this was the source of the failing hydraulic problems with the clutch operation.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 09:08
Tales from the Workshop The alert on the dashboard was quite alarming for the owner but didn’t actually concern a mechanical failure.
SKODA SUPERB
SOS warning – is it still OK to drive? Over the years many of my customers have updated their vehicle and many decide to buy a new showroom model. This normally means that I don’t see them for a few years, but many return once the warranty on the new vehicle expires. One such customer had purchased a new Skoda Superb a couple of years ago and although he didn’t pop in for servicing, he often came by for a chat now and again. One morning I received a call asking for a bit of advice. He explained that the dash was displaying 'SOS visit workshop' on the dash, and he was concerned about driving the vehicle in this condition. Thanks to the wonder of modern technology, he was also able to send me a picture of the dash
LAND ROVER DISCOVERY
Brake locked on
displaying this alarming warning. Thankfully I could then put his mind at rest. The SOS system is built into modern vehicles and in the event of a collision, this SOS system will send an automated signal to the call centre indicating that the vehicle had been in a collision and its location. The call centre could then alert the emergency services. This system utilises an E-SIM to send this message, and when the ignition is turned on, the system carries out a self-check to ensure this system is working. This warning was showing as the E-SIM system did not connect. So, as I reassured my customer, this does not affect the mechanical operation of the vehicle, but as it is under warranty this was something the dealer should rectify.
The Discovery, unlike some electric parking brake systems, does have a manual release hidden beneath the centre console cup holder.
I may be repeating myself here, but I have mentioned before I am not the greatest fan of electric parking brakes. Whilst they do mainly work fine and operate without issue, when a problem does occur it can leave the owner stranded. The owner of this 2014 Land Rover Discovery 4 SDV6 3.0 had recently had a problem with the battery draining down overnight. This turned out to be an aftermarket dashcam system that he had fitted, but the issue was that with a flat battery he was unable to move the vehicle as he couldn’t release the parking brake. His Land Rover was sitting on the drive blocking in his wife’s Vauxhall Astra, and she was keen to get to work. Thankfully on the Land Rover Discovery 4 there is a method of releasing the brake when the battery is flat. As he does live within a short distance from the garage, I popped round and released this for him. All that needs to be done is to lift out the centre cup holder panel and then underneath there is a release cable, pulling on this using a screwdriver or short bar, the brake will release. It is important though to chock the wheels or be prepared for the vehicle to move, remembering that the footbrake will have no servo assistance and the steering will be very stiff without the engine running. With the parking brake released the customers wife could now move her Astra.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Workshop Tales FEBRUARY 2024.indd 23
FORD FOCUS RS
Backplate noise
A constant light rattling sound could be heard when driving this 2017 Ford Focus RS, and it was certainly rattling the owner’s cage. Although only a very light noise, this was grating on the owners’ nerves and he wanted it gone. My first thoughts were that this was going to be the antiroll bar link, but after hearing the noise, it had the tinny elements of an exhaust shield. The source of the sound turned out to be neither of these things but was in fact a light rattle coming from the front brake disc backplate. This one took a little searching to find, but once located a light tap on the edge of the brake backplate confirmed the issue. Removing the brake disc, I discovered that the securing bolts were not fully tight, but decided rather than just nip them up, whilst the disc was off it would be prudent to remove the backplate fully and ensure it was OK. The backplate and hub flange were both cleaned, and the backplate refitted and secured. Once all back together the RS was given a quick road test to confirm it was now rattle-free.
The backplate needed to be resecured to the hub flange to silence the unwanted rattling.
Car Mechanics 23
February 2024
08/01/2024 09:08
WIN
WIN
WIN
WIN
WIN WIN WIN WIN
worth more than
CHT641
toolkit
3
to be WON!
WITH CANTILEVER TOOLBOX Each steel toolbox comes complete with tools. Cantilever design
is ideal for easy access and organisation of tools. Features five compartments. Kit contains a selection of the most commonly used tools offering great value. This toolbox is lockable (supplied with three keys and padlock) for security and has easy to carry handle.
CHT641 RRP
incl VAT
All contained in a cantilever toolbox 465 x 210 x 235mm with a brass padlock
WIN
HOW TO ENTER: Entry is free. ONLY ONE ENTRY PER HOUSEHOLD PLEASE. Follow the instructions below. No correspondence can be entered into. The three correct entries chosen at random will win a toolkit. Closing date for entries is February 28, 2024. Results will be published in the April 2024 issue, due out March 15, 2024.
WIN
Adjustable Spanner 200mm (8") 100mm Screwdriver Blade 200mm Crimping Tool Voltage Tester 25 x 175mm Cable Ties 6 x Precision Screwdrivers Mini Hacksaw Plastic Torch (takes 2 x AA Batteries, not supplied) Roll PVC Tape Utility Knife
£104.39
WIN
10 x ¼" Drive Sockets 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13mm 10 x 3/8" Drive Sockets 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19mm 6 x Combination Spanners 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17mm 10 x ¼" Drive Sockets 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2" 8 x 3/8" Drive Sockets Imperial 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4" 6 x Combination Spanners 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16" 3/8" Drive Ratchet Handle 3/8" Drive 75mm (3”) Extension Bar 3/8"(F) x 1/4"(M) Adaptor 16mm (5/8"), 21mm (13/16") Spark Plug Sockets ¼" Drive (star) Sockets 1/4, 5/16, 3/8" Ratchet Screwdriver Handle 60mm ¼" Hex Bit Holder 20 Screwdriver Bits 8 Hex Keys Metric 8 Hex Keys Imperial Ball Pein Hammer 5 Pairs Pliers: Combination Pliers 150mm (6") Long Nose Pliers 150mm (6") Diagonal Cutting Pliers 150mm (6") Groove Joint Pliers 250mm (10") Locking Plier 250mm (10")
WIN
WIN
3 £313 PRIZES
WIN
WIN
COMPETITION
WIN
WIN
WIN WIN
Win 199-piece
WIN
To enter this competition simply go to the website below and input your details Please visit our website
https://bit.ly/48Jb2QU
and follow the instructions on the page to enter the Clarke competition Type the above into a browser address line and NOT a search engine Car Mechanics magazine will only use the data you supply on your entry to contact you if you are the winner. The winner’s details will be passed on to Clarke International Ltd for the sole purpose of organising the delivery of your prize. All competition entries will be held securely until the prize draw has been made and then securely disposed of within seven days of the winners being chosen. The winners’ details will be held for a period of one month until the prize has been dispatched and received, then they will be securely disposed of.
Clarke Comp 199pc TOOLKIT.indd 24
05/01/2024 15:06
VARTA® THE BATTERY YOU CAN TRUST.
• VARTA are the worlds largest supplier to vehicle manufacturers • Reliable precision technology that delivers best-in-class manufacturing quality • VARTA recommend to regularly test your battery and maintain accordingly to ensure maximum performance
These car manufacturers fit VARTA®: Audi Bentley BMW Bugatti Chevrolet Chrysler Citroën Ferrari Fiat Ford GMC Honda Hyundai Jaguar Kia Lamborghini Land Rover Maserati MercedesBenz Nissan Peugeot Porsche Renault Seat Škoda Tesla Toyota Vauxhall Volkswagen Volvo
OE
DE
ORIGINAL SPARE PART
MADE IN GERMANY
It all starts with www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb
Clutch Clinic
BMW 1, 3, 5Series Andrew Everett replaces a worn dual mass flywheel on his 2006 118d – the process is very similar on all post-2004 BMW’s, petrol or diesel.
W
hen I bought my 2006 118d from Copart (see Our Cars, p88-89), I knew straight away that the DMF didn’t have long to live. Not just the growl as the clutch pedal was depressed, but a pretty horrendous rattle at idle that was awful when cold and slightly less so when warmed up. Towards the end, there was also clutch judder (again improving when warmed up) and whilst it was OK on the move, a distinct vibration under load in sixth gear on the motorway said that all was not well. When a flywheel finally lets go, it will probably destroy the gearbox as well so it’s worth renewing it. Clutch changes are similar on all BMW’s with both this engine (M47 diesel) with 1, 3 and 5-Series cars being all but identical. A 525d or 530d is much the same and the later 2007 onwards N47’s are even easier as the starter motor is near the bottom of the bellhousing making access easier. The four- and six-cylinder petrols aren’t much different either and we’ll give a few pointers along the way. The pedal on this 118d was still quite light and bites where it should but there is no point in replacing the flywheel and keeping the existing clutch unless you really are on a tight budget. The LuK self-adjusting clutch cover uses a ratchet on the clutch cover – three lightly sprung arms gradually adjust their way around the clutch cover on toothed ratchets between the outer cover and the friction diaphragm. As the clutch plate wears and becomes thinner, the clutch cover diaphragm adjusts itself to compensate. That means the clutch doesn’t get heavier, but it still wears out. Blue Print do a non-adjusting clutch kit and we’ve used this. It goes back to the first days of the dual mass flywheel when a standard clutch was used, albeit without the springs in the clutch plate. The T60 Torx flywheel bolts are not stretch bolts, and you can reuse them – but new ones have thread sealer on them to prevent hot engine oil from working its way through and getting onto the clutch. If you’re in doubt, just buy new ones. BMW first used a dual mass flywheel in 1986 on the new E32 730i and 735i. 26 Car Mechanics
February 2024
CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1-3-5-Series.indd 26
The centre of the flywheel is sprung for radial movement and smooth take up, replacing previous sprung clutch plate springs. Positives? On a diesel, a DMF certainly smooths out the fourcylinder engines. A 1995 318tds flywheel and clutch weighs 22kg, and so does the 118d setup with a lighter flywheel but heavier clutch. The Blue Print non-selfadjust clutch weighs about a kilo less. Clutch replacement is simple but laborious. At least there is no subframe to remove or fighting with driveshafts. It’s doable on the ground with tall axle stands but a ramp makes life much easier. The end result is a 118d with a silent flywheel and a light, bitey clutch that works well. A lot of work, but it’s transformed the car.
TORQUE SETTINGS Flywheel bolts
120Nm
Bellhousing bolts (M8)
22Nm
Bellhousing bolts (M10) 49Nm Clutch cover bolts (8.8) 22Nm Clutch cover bolts (10.9) 34Nm Clutch cover bolts (ZNS) 15Nm + 90° Propshaft Giubo nuts
Propshaft centre mount 21Nm Prop to diff Torx (4-bolt) 40Nm + 40°
ESSENTIAL TOOLS Breaker bar
Socket set
Screwdrivers Torque wrench Two- or four-post lift Long-reach trolley jack Axle stands
Hammer
Male and female Torx set
64Nm
PARTS PRICES Blue Print Dual Mass Flywheel £391.00 Blue Print 3pc clutch kit £136.95 Flywheel bolts (11227520706) £10.31 Clutch arm pivot (21511223328) £5.77 Gear change clip (25117571899) £1.90
BMW 1-3-5-Series DMF & Clutch
Remove the exhaust system or at least disconnect the front flexy joint. These can be knackered by this stage and it’s worth getting a new one to fit just in case. Ours was OK but the sleeve joint had been welded – we left the exhaust on but disconnected the rear mounts allowing it to drop just enough.
1
On petrols, remove these four downpipe-to-manifold nuts that can rust and round off like this. Use a grinder or a good sharp cold chisel to split them, if rotten, to save the studs. Order four new nuts from the dealers or parts shop.
2
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 08:55
CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1, 3, 5-Series Remove the two 13mm nuts and bolts with their rubber insulating washers that secure this exhaust bracket to the bracket on the gearbox on some models. Unplug any exhaust sensors from the engine loom as well as the reverse light switch connector plug.
3
Use a suitable Torx socket to remove the four bolts that secure the transmission tunnel reinforcing bracket. They can be quite rusty and round out so use the best Torx socket you have. Pre-2007 cars like ours use 13mm bolts. Ours were rusted in and took extreme care with lots of penetrating fluid to gradually ease out.
4
If the rear exhaust is sound, remove the two bolts securing the rear exhaust box to the rest of the system. If it looks a bit corroded, remove the complete exhaust. There are three rubber hangers and a retaining bracket on the diff with an 18mm nut. Be aware that not all exhausts have a detachable rear box like this one.
5
The heat shields can now be removed as well as the engine undertrays to access the propshaft centre bearing. These cars generally have a full length plastic undertray or just a front section that needs to be removed. They are all secured by 10mm bolts. Have some big washers in stock to fix a corroded alloy heat shield.
6
The propshaft comes off next. You can unbolt the whole prop from the diff or slacken the centre collar, mark the two halves for alignment and slide the front part off. Start by slackening the two 13mm centre bearing bolts (torqued to 21Nm) but leave them in loosely for now.
7
If you want to disconnect the prop from the diff, there are four Torx E12 bolts on the four-cylinder petrols and pre-2007 118d. Others have a rubber six-bolt Giubo at either end. The ‘four-bolt’ prop needs to be prised from the diff with a hammer and screwdriver but DO NOT hit the UJ with a hammer!
8
Disconnect the prop from the gearbox – the Giubo couplings use six 18mm nuts and long bolts. It doesn’t really matter if you remove the prop with the coupling attached or leave it on the gearbox flange. The bolts are torqued to 64Nm.
9
Disconnect the gear linkage 10 from the gearbox – not an easy
task due to a lack of room but a sharp flat-blade screwdriver is perfect. The gearchange operating rod from the gearlever is retained by a single clip that is easy enough to remove. Don’t lose it though!
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1-3-5-Series.indd 27
Car Mechanics 27
February 2024
08/01/2024 08:55
CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1, 3, 5-Series
BMW 1-3-5-Series DMF & Clutch CONTINUED Unbolt and remove the clutch 11 slave cylinder from the side of
the gearbox, held on by two 13mm nuts – no need to disconnect the fluid hose. Tie it well out of the way with a cable tie because when the gearbox is being refitted you can guarantee it’s going to be in the way.
Now we can undo the gearbox 12 retaining Torx bolts, generally
E12 and E14 and sometimes the side bolts into the block are the bigger size. Hammer the socket on good and hard as you really don’t want to be rounding off one of these, particularly the top ones. With the bellhousing bolts 13 removed, you will need to take
the weight of the gearbox (45 kilos) either on a trolley jack or a transmission stand and remove the four crossmember mounting bolts. Do not try to do this without a jack – I had a serious cut and five stitches last year when a BMW gearbox landed on my hand. The 2006 original flywheel 14 did well at over 170,000 miles.
The centre section, though, was both seized almost solid and had collapsed about 3mm into the outer section – there will be broken bits inside it. Notice how the flywheel bolt holes are not aligned with the bolts. We moved it with a screwdriver to access the bolts. Clean excess clutch dust 15 out with brake cleaner and an
airline. Note how the steel spring clip fits to keep the clutch operating arm in position. Before you fit the new release bearing, clean the guide tube with wet and dry paper and fit the bearing with a light smear of grease as well as both contact points on the release fork. If the propshaft front rubber 16 Giubo coupling is cracked and
looking tired you should fit a new one. Make sure the arrows moulded into the side of the coupling align with either the bolt heads or the flange as shown here. If you get it wrong the coupling will fail quickly.
Here’s the 17 new Blue
Print flywheel with 3-year manufacturer guarantee. Don’t be tempted by a single mass flywheel conversion. Some of the better ones are alrightish but they’re rarely brilliant. The cheaper ones are absolute rubbish. I’d rather fit a decent secondhand DMF than risk a single mass conversion.
28 Car Mechanics
February 2024
CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1-3-5-Series.indd 28
release bearing on some cars has two different 18 The mounting lugs to give different heights for different
applications. Compare the new and old bearings BEFORE you remove the old one! The release bearing on the Blue Print non-self-adjusting clutch is different.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 08:55
CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1, 3, 5-Series
Remove the six 20 5mm Allen bolts
Blue Print clutch kit comes with this handy 19 The illustration for fitting the new release bearing – in this
case you fit the release bearing on its shallowest setting. Get this wrong and the clutch biting point will be wrong and may overheat and destroy the bearing and clutch cover.
securing the clutch cover to the flywheel. As you undo them, the cover will decompress – to prevent de-adjusting it (if you are reusing it) remove it very carefully and perhaps use small grips on the ratchets.
Our old clutch was still 21 quite decent with lots of
life left. But because the flywheel centre had collapsed inwards slightly, the clutch cover adjuster ratchet had wound itself fully out, basically rendering it scrap. For the cost of a new clutch kit, it’s rarely worth trying to reuse a clutch. You’ll need a breaker bar 22 as well as a close-fitting
T60 Torx driver bit to remove the old flywheel. The bolts are very accessible yet incredibly difficult to drill out if you round one out so use the best T60 you have. New flywheel bolts are advisable. Examine the back of the 23 engine and rear crank oil
seal. Ours was fine, and the oil found around the sump gasket is the usual leak from the cam cover gasket working its way down. A new seal is only £25 from BMW and simple enough to replace. Clean the new flywheel of 24 protective oil as well as the
crank mating surface and fit the flywheel. The bolts are fitted and tightened to 120Nm. They are not stretch bolts. The threaded holes in the crank are not blind and YOU MUST use threadlock or sealer – if not, oil will leak through onto the clutch. Here is the new Blue Print 25 non-self-adjusting clutch
kit. Not shown here is the release bearing but it does come with one of course. A new release fork is included. This clutch is a direct swap for the original type and is very slightly lighter than the self-adjusting type. The plastic clutch fork 26 pivot can wear down
resulting in a clutch that doesn’t disengage as it should, biting low. It’s worth fitting a new one in from BMW as they’re cheap enough. Just drive the old one out and knock the new one in. Add a dab of grease before fitting the arm.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1-3-5-Series.indd 29
Car Mechanics 29
February 2024
08/01/2024 08:55
CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1, 3, 5-Series
WITH THANKS TO Ferdinand Bilstein UK Ltd www.partsfinder. bilsteingroup.com
BMW 1-3-5-Series DMF & Clutch CONTINUED
Parkside Garage (Worksop) 01909 506555
Fit the new clutch plate with a 27 special aligning tool or a socket
extension built up with masking tape. It fits into the spigot bearing in the end of the flywheel and into the centre of the clutch plate. Get it as right as you can by eye if you don’t have the correct tool. The clutch cover is fitted next. 28 This is a petrol model with the self-
adjusting cover – notice the three plate green springs on the self-adjust ratchets are fully compressed meaning that the adjuster is fully wound in. The Allen bolts are torqued to 34Nm. The centre piece is removed with a Hex tool from a gearbox/diff drain plug kit and is turned anti-clockwise until it springs out. This is a petrol E46, but the best tip 29 ever is to have a couple of threaded
studs wound into the block – slide the gearbox onto these and they will take the weight whilst you wiggle the output shaft (’box in gear) to engage the gearbox and clutch splines. Once engaged, the gearbox will slide on so you can refit the bolts. Not part of a clutch change, but 30 it’s always worth slackening the
drain and refill plugs (refill plug first!) and doing a gearbox oil change. Our 118d gearbox oil was pretty grim so we drained and refilled with fresh EP75/90. Drain plugs differ as do oil quantities – this six-speed box requires 1.5 litres.
T: 01706 620082 E: info@cjautosheywood.co.uk C J Autos Heywood Ltd, Mission Street, Heywood, OL10 1HY
CT02 AUTOVIP
CT04 NBN CHASSIS
CT01 BASIC CAR ROLLER
CL01 TILTING CAR LIFT
CL01 2 TON
CR01 HYDRAULIC CAR RAMPS
CR06XHD HYDRAULIC CAR RAMPS
CL22 MINI SIDE CAR LIFT
CM02 HYDRAULIC WHEEL SKATES
CM22 ADJUSTABLE MECHANICAL SKATES
CM02R RATCHET WHEEL SKATES
CM23 ADJUSTABLE HYDRAULIC SKATE
CM05A STANDARD MOBILE AXLE STANDS
CM05B HEAVY DUTY MOBILE AXLE STANDS
CM04 DOLLIES WITH STEEL WHEELS
DOLLIES WITH NYLON WHEELS
SEE WEBSITE FOR ALL PRICES WWW.CJAUTOSHEYWOOD.CO.UK 30 Car Mechanics
February 2024
CLUTCH CLINIC BMW 1-3-5-Series.indd 30
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 08:56
SUBSCRIBE TODAY
SAVE £45 PLUS! GET A FREE BEANIE HAT *
SAVE 20% ON THE SHOP PRICE & NEVER MISS AN ISSUE
10 pages of your car problems solved by our experts
BLUETOOTH engine fault code readers App-based FCRs compared
6
on test
SAVING YOU MONEY SINCE 1958 Project LEXUS IS 250
DAMPER SWAP
DPF CLEANING Diesel Particulate Filter on-and-off car cleaning options demonstrated ■ ✓ What is a DPF? ■ ✓ How do DPFs self-clean?
HALDEX
Gen 4 oil & filter change
■ ✓ How blocked DPFs damage other parts ■ ✓ Step-by-step guides to on-car & off-car cleaning methods
WIN Tool Chest
or a
2
prizes
worth over
£317
24
FEBRUARY 2020 January 2024
£2.95 £4.99
FEBRUARY 2020
£2.95
KELSEYmedia
SERVICE
BUYING USED
BMW 335d
Kia Stinger
xDrive upkeep
Quick & good looking
£2.95
Tool Kit
SEE PAGE
By subscribing to Car Mechanics, you'll start saving money straight away. Paying £47.88 via direct debit means that each KELSEYmedia issue received over the next 12 months costs you £3.99 (saving £1 on the cover PROJECT KELSEYCAR media price). Plus, for a limited period, we will send you a warm and cosy Car Mechanics Range Rover V8 beanie hat free-of-charge. KELSEYmedia MOT'd & ready to sell Martyn Knowles, Editor KELSEYmedia
KELSEYmedia
KELSEYmedia
£2.95
KELSEYmedia
3 EASY WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE 1 Go to shop.kelsey.co.uk/CME224 2 Call us 01959 543747 quote CME224 3 Scan the QR code
Hotline open: Monday to Friday 8.30am-5.30pm. Calls charged at your standard network rate. Terms and conditions: *UK Direct Debit offer only. You will pay £47.88 per year (12 issues). Offer ends 31st March 2024. Savings based on the standard cover price of £4.99 plus Kelsey’s standard postage price (£2.75) per issue for one full year (12 issues). Other UK offers available. For offers outside the UK visit shop.kelsey.co.uk/CME. Your subscription will start with the next available issue and you will receive 12 issues in a year. Prices correct at time of print and subject to change. If you decide to cancel your subscription we will put a stop to any further payments being taken and will send the remaining issues that you have already paid for. Free gift while stocks last. Image of beanie above is for illustrative purposes and actual beanie you receive may vary. For full terms and conditions, visit shop.kelsey.co.uk/terms. Data protection: We take great care in handling your personal details and these will only ever be used as set out in our privacy policy which can be viewed at shop.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy
CM SUBS WP FEBRUARY 2024.indd 31
08/01/2024 09:36
Mercedes-Benz/Renault diesel EGR filter clean
Low-pressure
EGR filter clean CM reader, Tim Baker, looks at a 2017 Mercedes-Benz C200 with the OM626 (Renault R9M) diesel engine with an illuminating Engine Management Light (EML).
W
ith the Engine Management Light (EML) illuminated, this MercedesBenz was checked for error codes. P0401 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow insufficient detected.
The vehicle owner said that the car had been to a Mercedes-Benz dealership some time previously and they “had to work on a sensor”. As luck would have it, the owner had kept the invoice, and the detail recorded the same error code we had – and the report indicated that the EGR filter was replaced.
I wanted to begin by retracing the steps of the dealer repair. The error code was the same, and because the labour amount on the dealer invoice was reasonable, this suggested that the repair must have been completed within an hour – so the filter must be located somewhere accessible. Seemed like a good place to start. How the engine looks in a Mercedes C200.
D
F
B E
C
A
32 Car Mechanics Merc C200 EGR Tim Baker.indd 32
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 09:04
Mercedes-Benz/Renault diesel EGR filter clean G
F
H
It appears that two EGR circuits are employed on this engine: low-pressure and high-pressure. The high-pressure EGR valve may be found under the air inlet duct adjacent to the engine bay bulkhead on the inlet side of the engine at point ‘D’. The low-pressure EGR valve is located adjacent to the turbo at position ‘E’. We began work by removing the inlet air duct ‘A’. The MAF sensor is connected to ‘A’ at the junction with ‘B’. Disconnect the harness connection to the MAF sensor. Here is a caution for air duct ‘B’. This is a hard plastic duct and has no flexibility. The joint between the MAF sensor and duct ‘B’ has no rubber or flexible section, and you may find that the duct ‘B’ has shrunk with age. With duct ‘B’ being of hard plastic, I found it difficult to initially remove ‘A’ and impossible to reconnect ‘B’ to the MAF sensor when reassembling the air inlet duct. Clever design. As this duct ages, it may shrink sufficiently to cause it to split open at either end. On duct ‘B’ there is a rubber support mounting midway along the unit adjacent to the bulkhead. When I came to remove this, I found it had already been broken away from ‘B’, with one of the cable clip mounting points for one of the sensors attached to ‘B’. Before removing ‘B’, loosen the jubilee clip at the connection with the EGR mixer at position ‘F’. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose and all harness connections to the sensors installed in ‘B’. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Merc C200 EGR Tim Baker.indd 33
Here’s the flexible section in the high-pressure trucking ‘C’. This hose clamp requires a special tool to release it, and if you do release it (I used mole grips) you’ll find the hose itself is very difficult to move. Much quicker to disconnect it at the vertical run behind the radiator and save yourself some time.
The duct ‘B’ connection to the EGR mixer will be very tight due to the shrinkage of this duct. Begin by carefully rotating the free end upwards to break the friction at the joint, and carefully work the air trunk off the connection with the EGR mixer body. There is a rubber sleeve at this point which allows some flexibility for reassembly, but this joint is still very difficult to remake. This joint may be so tight that you could be led to believe that there is a connection or a bolt that you’ve missed, but there is only the jubilee clip. Remove ‘B’ from the engine bay once fully disconnected. Remove the high-pressure air duct ‘C’. This is secured at the upper end with a single bolt and at the lower end (behind the radiator) with a second bolt. At each end of ‘C’ there is a wire clip securing the duct to the turbo outlet at the upper end and the intercooler connection at the lower end.
I The hose connection between the low-pressure EGR valve and the EGR mixer. The witness marking on the hose clamp was a good sign for me because it indicated that my work was taking place in the same area as the previous dealer work. There were also witness marks on the bolts that I had removed.
Car Mechanics 33
February 2024
08/01/2024 09:04
Mercedes-Benz/Renault diesel EGR filter clean With the inlet duct removed, you can now see the EGR mixer ‘F’, which must be removed to access the low-pressure EGR valve located underneath. To access ‘F’, you must first remove the turbo actuator solenoid valve ‘G’ and the electrical connector support bracket ‘H’ in order to access the rear mounting bolt ‘I’ for the EGR mixer.
Here’s the EGR filter in position. It does not look too bad from this view, but this is the ‘clean’ side.
Now remove the EGR mixer, which is secured by two bolts (circled), and slide off the turbo inlet, also releasing the low-pressure EGR hose.
Lifting the filter out shows how much soot has accumulated on the inlet side. This filter screen is a metal mesh, and is easily cleaned with a small nylon brush or an old toothbrush. With the low-pressure EGR mixer removed, you can now access the low-pressure EGR valve. The filter is located at the inlet to the low-pressure EGR valve.
And with very little effort will quickly look like this. Having cleaned the filter and the mounting faces, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. During reassembly, I cleaned the loose soot from the LP EGR valve before replacing it.
I would be interested to learn from other readers their experience with this inlet air duct. In 40 years of working with cars, it’s the worst I’ve ever experienced. The final act is to clear the error codes and extinguish the EML.
Special notes about reassembly The reattachment of inlet trunking ‘B’ was very difficult at the EGR mixer body, even with a light smear of engine oil on the rubber gasket sleeve. The broken mounting for the duct ‘B’ was drilled to allow it to be secured to the main duct with a cable tie (right).
To access the EGR filter, it is necessary to remove the LP EGR valve. There are four bolts, of which two are through-bolts securing the EGR elbow. In this image I have already removed one bolt. The rear-most flange bolt was accessible through an access hole in an engine bracket, via a deep ¼in-drive socket, with a ¼in to 3/8in adaptor and a 3/8in UJ. The remaining two bolts are more readily accessible. With the mounting bolts removed, lift the LP EGR valve away from its installed position.
34 Car Mechanics Merc C200 EGR Tim Baker.indd 34
February 2024
No amount of force could persuade the MAF sensor to reconnect with the air duct, due to shrinkage of the hard plastic of the duct. What you see here (left) is the MAF sensor partially engaged within the duct and the temporary measure of the use of adhesive tape to prevent unfiltered inlet air bypassing the MAF sensor.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 09:05
Save 5% Discount Code Exclusively For Car Mechanics Readers CAR0124 - www.jlmshop.co.uk
JLM Professional
Diesel / Petrol / Hybrid /Oil J03175 – E10 Fuel Treatment J06055 – Engine Oil Stop Leak J02360 – Diesel Extreme Clean J03195 – Petrol Hybrid Treatment J02385 – Diesel AdBlue Plus
Your car is protected with JLM.
“Here at Lawson Autotech we use JLM Lubricants' DPF products. Our workshop now uses all JLM products in many aspects of our work from servicing to turbo faults." #liquidtools #moreofthegoodstuff
Barry Lawson
Lawson Autotech
For more information:
t: 01273 891 162 e: info@kalimex.co.uk w: www.jlmshop.co.uk Car Mechanics Ad 133x190 HR.pdf
1
02/05/2023
9:49 am
THE COMPLETE FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM CLEANER. FUEL TANK INJECTORS CATALYTIC CONVERTER OXYGEN SENSORS EGR VALVES DPF/PPF COMBUSTION CHAMBER IINTAKE NT VALVES REDUCE EMISSIONS • RESTORE PERFORMANCE • IMPROVE FUEL ECONOMY Results may vary subject to vehicle/fuel type, driving style/cycle and climate conditions.
Brake disc skimming investigation
Warped Thinking?
Pro-Cut brake lathe in action. Tecalemit says a typical skim takes around 30 minutes but as the caliper must be removed and secured out of the way it’s no quicker than replacing a disc.
When your vehicle’s brake discs are worn what’s the best repair – replacement or refacing the existing ones? The answer’s perhaps not as ‘clear cut’ as you first imagine, suggests Alan Anderson.
W
hat motorist hasn’t experienced brake judder. That steering shimmy which wants to shake your hands from the steering wheel? The cause is usually patently obvious – worn or warped brake discs. But it’s how the problem is eradicated which needs more thought than you’d initially credit. According to the Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency (DVSA), brake faults account for some 20% of MOT failures and discs can fall foul on the visual examination as well as a poor brake balance test. Replacing worn brake discs is
Using febi parts, we replaced this Audi’s discs due to judder, yet they don’t look worn. Problem solved, although on-car skimming would also have alleviated the chance of future run-out issues by matching disc to hub.
36 Car Mechanics Disc Skimming.indd 36
February 2024
now almost as much a service requirement as fitting spark plugs as both their typical service lives are around 60-80,000 miles – or after the third brake pad renewal. In the majority of cases, disc replacement as opposed to refacing existing components is the default as well as the most cost-effective choice on run-of-the-mill cars and light commercials. Thanks to cut-throat competition, a new axle set of discs can sell at under £60 depending upon make, model and disc manufacturer. In contrast, a typical brake resurfacing costs between £120-£200; a price which makes resurfacing old units unpalatable and illogical to most motorists at least at first glance.
Spin doctors Brake skimming has come a long way since the days of garages having an old lathe tucked away at the back of their workshops – the modern way is to carry out resurfacing with the disc still attached to the hub. Mind you, older readers may recall back in the late 1970s when Ford wanted owners to do the job for them. Four-cylinder Cortinas and Capris in particular were experiencing excessive disc run-out from the showrooms – so much so that special brake pads featuring an abrasive surface (which wore away within a couple of hundred miles to hone the disc to the hub) were fitted as a warranty repair.
Looks ripe for replacement but as the ‘after’ picture shows, this brake disc was actually easily reclaimable. However, the majority of us would have probably renewed it for peace of mind.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 08:53
Brake disc skimming investigation As a typical brake disc is good for at least one skim, apart from the obvious environmental attraction of recycling perfectly serviceable components, brake lathe manufacturer Tecalemit Garage Equipment (which has produced Pro-Cut brake lathes since 1999) says having a brake disc resurfaced in situ ensures that the disc runs true to within one thousand of an inch, compensating for both normal axle wear as well as misalignment, the latter caused by kerbing and pothole damage. According to skimmydisc.co.uk, EBC Brakes claims one in seven vehicles may suffer from Disc Thickness Variation (DTV) or excessive run-out meaning even if replacement discs are fitted the problem will eventually return perhaps resulting in double the repair bill unless they are also skimmed. However, as far as skimming new discs is concerned, the main advantage is not so much to eliminate DTV but ensure that the disc is matched to the hub claims Tecalemit. “Whether or not to skim brake discs is an interesting question”, says Adam Hilton, sales and marketing director of Tecalemit Garage Equipment. “For some, it is seen as an old-fashioned practice, a relic of the days when mechanics would strip down parts, only replace damaged components, and they would spend time investigating faults. Today, the approach taken is replace, replace, replace. So now, when an engine fails, replacing the whole thing with a reconditioned unit is considered easier than repairing the existing one. This attitude and the influx of cheap aftermarket replacement parts have changed the motor trade’s approach to fixing cars. “If you take brake judder, one of the most common causes is disc thickness variation (DTV). For effective braking, the disc needs to have the same
thickness throughout. If not, the pad only has intermittent contact with the disc. DTV can easily be fixed by skimming discs, but most brake disc manufacturers only suggest renewing the discs and pads as the remedy. Generally, brake discs last 2-3 times longer than pads, and when a workshop replaces only the pads, that is the ideal time to skim the discs”, he told CM. Car Mechanics regularly publishes articles on changing brake discs and one of the points we ram home is the need to scrupulously rid the hub face of dirt and rust so the new disc sits as true as possible preventing the possibility of future premature run-out issues.
Vanity and value Finding a garage which provides this service is made easier by the website skimmydisc.co.uk. Phillip Bird of PJ Bird, based in Billericay Essex, told us that initially his brake lathe was paying for itself due to the fact a local high-end
One of the best ways to reduce the chance of premature disc run-out is to thoroughly clean the hub’s mounting face so that the new disc sits true. Some even advocate having brand new discs skimmed in situ!
A growing trend, some high-end dealers, perhaps with their own equipment, have the brake discs skimmed as part of their pre-sale build up so that they complement the refurbished alloy wheels.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Disc Skimming.indd 37
prestige car dealer was having his stock’s discs routinely skimmed purely for cosmetic reasons – so much so that it almost became a part of the pre-sale preparation. However, with the dealer now gone, Bird admits the equipment isn’t called upon much these days but it’s a service few other workshops in the locality provides. Some prestige dealers, says Pro-Cut, have even gone so far as to purchase their own on-car brake lathe to reduce pre-sale prep costs because the need for brake resurfacing is becoming as essential as alloy wheel refurbishments to create that vital X factor. So, what’s best – replacement or refurbish? Anyone who has carried out a disc change must have thought what a waste it is to discard what may be perfectly reclaimable components if it wasn’t for the fact that new replacements may be cheaper than having the old ones reconditioned! Also, with brand new, there’s the benefit of a guarantee, which in the case of partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com is a reassuring three-year warranty. In contrast, a brake skim guarantee is down to the individual repairer. Our view? Editor Knowles says, “disc reclaiming is a far more popular practice abroad, especially in Spain, than here in the UK.” Yet price considerations aside, we’d certainly suggest giving this alternative to default replacement more thought than before because it could result in a more thorough repair. “As a final thought”, says Hilton, “it’s worth remembering that motoring is undergoing one of the most significant changes ever seen as we move away from fossil fuels. While how we power vehicles will change, how they stop will likely remain the same. Brakes may be one of the few areas garages (and home mechanics, Ed.) can still service”.
So long as enough ‘meat’ remains, all types of discs, including grooved, drilled and slotted designs are catered for. Due to their higher costs performance types become more economically viable to skim.
Car Mechanics 37
February 2024
08/01/2024 08:54
DIY WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DIY wheel alignment Peter Clayton reports.
N
ot often will wheel alignment be on the minds of the average motorist. It does not form part of any particular service regimen or MOT test. Some will be reactive to problems resulting from poor alignment such as when steering or handling are adversely affected, or when uneven tyre wear becomes apparent after a few thousand miles of driving. Others will be slightly more proactive with regard to the alignment process – for example they may have it checked after a tyre replacement for peace of mind against their new purchase. A vehicle with an alignment that falls within the specifications of the manufacturer will not only enhance the roadholding capability but improve fuel consumption, so its role should not be underestimated. With the abundance of so-called ‘fourwheel alignment’ services typically seen in many fast-fit centres across the country I investigated whether such an alignment process can be performed by a DIYer and if any potential savings can be made in the process. As you will see over the next few pages, I ran an alignment on my 2006 BMW 130i in my home garage using the string method without the need for any expensive equipment.
What is wheel alignment? While there are many components that make up a vehicle’s suspension system, they all perform a specific function to ensure the road wheels are in the best
orientation. Not only does a wheel turn left and right, which the suspension must accommodate for, it also tilts inwards and outwards as the chassis moves up and down. Each of these movements can be tweaked in relation to each other to ensure maximum contact with the road surface is accomplished improving handling, fuel economy and avoiding uneven braking. As components wear, such as track control bushes, or even when the suspension system is subjected to harsh forces (eg. driving over potholes) the ideal angles that the manufacturer sets at the factory begin to deviate away from the ideal. The alignment process
attempts to correct any deviations back again, although it is not a substitution for poor quality or worn-out suspension; the alignment should be made once these parts have been replaced. The adjustment of various suspension and steering components is performed through changing three main alignment angles – toe, camber and caster. The first two of these affect tyre wear and handling the most. Assuming that the steering wheel is fixed dead-straight, adjusting toe will control how much the wheels point forward independently. If viewing the wheels from above, ‘toe in’ (a positive number measured in degrees)
DIY FOURWHEEL ALIGNMENT: WHAT YOU WILL NEED The following illustrates what you will require to perform your own alignment at home. Two stiff poles that exceed the width of the vehicle. I chose thick-walled aluminium tubing for around £20, but anything from wood, copper or PVC pipe can also be employed as long as it doesn’t easily bend. Thin string or cord. I chose a reel of 15lb monofilament fishing line in a bright colour for £8. Four small weights around 100g each. I used 100g scale calibration weights, but fishing line sinkers work well here too. Adjustable axle stands. Pieces of scrap cardboard or sheets of wood. Laser level. Not strictly necessary but helps to ensure your working environment is level and one can be picked up for as little as £30. Masking tape and marker pen. A long cable tie.
38 Car Mechanics DIY Wheel Alignment.indd 38
February 2024
Rope (or pedal depressor – not necessary but useful). Measuring tape. Small spirit level. Ruler or Vernier caliper gauge. A straight edge or camber bar (the Y-configuration bar costs as little as £30). Camber level or digital inclinometer (the digital version can be picked up for £15). Cutting wheel or hacksaw Plastic carrier bags. When a light oil such as WD40 is sprayed inside they act as great turntables. Alternatively, you can pick up a pair of the real things from Rally Design for £140. Four sturdy ramps with a flat top. I used a thick sheet steel over my car dollies to give me working height but any suitable flat surface that can raise each road wheel off the ground greater than around 20cm can be used.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 09:46
DIY WHEEL ALIGNMENT will have the wheels pointing slightly towards the middle of the vehicle, while ‘toe out’ (a negative number) will have them pointing slightly outwards. A vehicle set with zero or neutral toe means the wheels are perfectly straight ahead. The camber angle is where either the upper part of the wheel is closer to the centre of the vehicle than the bottom part (a negative number measured in degrees), or the opposite (a positive number). Finally, much like the wheels on a shopping trolley, caster is a measurement of how far forward or back the wheel is in relation to its pivot point (eg. an upper and lower balljoint). When the wheel is trailing, a negative number in degrees is measured; when the wheel is leading, it’s a positive number. Caster plays a
part in ensuring the steering remains centred, improving stability, and is the same mechanism at play when the wheel turns back by itself after performing a turn. This alignment component does not often get addressed unless a full geometry setup is required and so will not be discussed further in this article.
Tracking vs four-wheel alignment A common type of wheel alignment is referred to as ‘tracking’. When a garage performs this on a vehicle they are only focussing on the front two wheels ensuring that the toe, in relation to each other, is set correctly, ie. the angle required as per manufacturer’s guidelines.
The rear wheels’ positions are not taken into account and so there is a risk that the overall alignment will still be out, and the vehicle may pull to the side or cause uneven tyre wear. There are various DIY tools, such as TrackAce, that measure the front tracking and is useful when you know the rear geometry is still optimal and the front axle requires adjusting only. A four-wheel alignment considers the rear wheels to ensure that the entire vehicle will point in the right direction when in motion and allows the rear camber and toe to be additionally set. If presented with a choice at a garage it is better to go with this method over a simple tracking adjustment, especially if you do not know the existing state of the rear axle.
Making the initial measurement Ascertain whether your garage or driveway is suitable for conducting a wheel alignment. It should be level and have enough room for you to manoeuvre yourself around all four corners. Measure the width of your vehicle from the outer edge of the left wheel to the outer edge of the right wheel on the same axle. Some vehicles have different front and rear tracks so note the widest one. Lay the measuring tape out such that this length plus ten centimetres can be marked when the tape is placed in the middle of each pole. You should make a mark either end of the pole so that is around five centimetres wider each side than the width of your vehicle.
1
Using a hacksaw or other cutting tool, carefully make a thin deep cut into each mark – these grooves will hold the string in place. It is very important that the cuts made are identically spaced on both poles, so take your time here. In the photo shown, two cuts each side have been made to accommodate for different cars’ widths – ensure you use the same inner or outer groove all round!
2
Place your oiled carrier bags or turntables on the ramps. Drive or jack up your vehicle on to the ramps (then remove locking pins if you have turntables), push down against each corner of the vehicle a few times to level out the suspension and ensure the steering wheel is pointing dead straight from inside the car.
4
With your ramps in place, you can use a laser level to check height differences at each wheel. A few millimetres won’t make much difference but if you’re counting centimetres then ensure a safe method of levelling this out. I cut sheet steel shims to adjust the height of the dolly platforms.
3
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME DIY Wheel Alignment.indd 39
Car Mechanics 39
February 2024
07/01/2024 09:46
DIY WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Using a pedal depressor against the steering wheel can help secure it (left pic), or alternatively use clean rope or luggage straps and anchor it around the back of the seat (above pic).
5
To aid visually checking the position of the steering wheel, wrap a cable tie around the top middle and allow the end to rest on top of the dashboard. With some masking tape you can then mark this position to ensure no movement occurs.
6
7
Check all tyre pressures ensuring they are correctly set for normal loads – data for this is usually inside the door shut or fuel flap.
Place the poles at the front and rear of the vehicle resting each end against the axle stands. Tie your string to a weight and feed it over the top of the pole at the front of the car and over the other pole on the same side at the rear. Tie up or add a weight at the other end and allow the string to sit in the grooves you cut earlier. The string should be pulled taught with the weights not touching the floor. Perform the same thing on the other side of the vehicle, boxing it in. Move each pole sideways until there is approximately the same gap between the string and the wheels each side.
8
40 Car Mechanics DIY Wheel Alignment.indd 40
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 09:46
DIY WHEEL ALIGNMENT
note of the length of your vehicle’s 9 Take wheelbase (from the centres of the front and rear wheels), or alternatively consult your vehicle’s manual for the information. Adjust the height of the axle stands and use cardboard or wooden sheets underneath for finer adjustment (I’m using leftover sheet steel shims in this photo), until the string is at the same height as the centre of both wheels. You can use masking tape on the axle stands and over the grooves in the poles to minimise any movement.
small strips of masking tape, cover 10 With the far edges of each wheel (avoid
applying to the tyre) that is in line with the string. Using a spirit level to help, mark on the masking tape the point of the string’s height. You may have to perform this step a few times if large adjustments are made later on. It is also worth pointing out that badly scraped alloy wheels can make getting an accurate measurement difficult! Make a note of the diameter of the wheel from the two markings just made. Some vehicles have larger wheels on one axle than the other, so measure those too if so.
a ruler or Vernier caliper gauge, 11 With measure the eight distances from all
the points marked on the wheels to the strings, keeping note of which measurement was taken from which wheel. A mini spirit level can be attached to the gauge to avoid having to use marks on the wheels, however using markings on tape is quicker to repeat measurements.
Go to this website https://robrobinette.com/ DIYAlignmentCalculator.htm and enter the values you measured earlier (all using the same unit of measurement). This includes the wheelbase, distance of the markings on the front and rear wheels, and the distances between the string and the wheel markings. Once you click the ‘calculate’ button it will provide you with the toe angles of all the wheels, completing your alignment check! Once the website is loaded on a laptop (or smartphone) for example, it does not require internet connection so if needed you can take this to your area of work and continue making adjustments and recalculating the figures quickly.
12
The last set of measurements for 13 camber do not require calculating
and can be taken at each wheel while the vehicle is on level ground. For this you will require either a straight edge to place against the wheel vertically, or a camber bar as illustrated. A digital inclinometer is placed on the side of the bar to ensure it is vertical (within 1/10th of a degree is more than acceptable). Without disturbing the camber 14 bar, move the inclinometer to
the front portion to take the camber measurement. The photo shows -1.63°.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME DIY Wheel Alignment.indd 41
Car Mechanics 41
February 2024
07/01/2024 09:46
DIY WHEEL ALIGNMENT
UNDERSTANDING THE VALUES If you use the website provided, you will note that the toe angles shown are all in decimal degrees, eg. 1.32. Some manufacturers may provide alignment data in the same format, in which case a comparison can be easily made. However, some sources will provide degrees in a different format using degrees and minutes, with each degree being split into 60 minutes. If this sounds like too much maths, fear not as there are useful websites such as this one that can convert between decimal and minutes:
Making the adjustments Now you know the initial values you can set about correcting the alignment if measurements are not within specification. As changing one dimension will often affect another, it is important to make changes in a specific order to reduce this effect. If the manufacturer doesn’t specify the order, it’s best to ensure camber on all four wheels are set first (should you be adjusting this), then the rear toe can be set, followed by the front toe. You must also ascertain whether adjustment is even possible, as some makes and models have fixed geometries that cannot be tweaked, such as rear toe. Assuming an adjustment is
Adjustments
https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/number/degreesto-degrees-minutes-seconds.html Most manufacturers will stipulate the total toe for each axle. BMW, for example, state that the front total toe on my 130i should be 0°16’±10’, that is to say the total on the front axle should add up to positive zero degrees and 16 minutes within plus or minus ten minutes. This means that the toe on each side is ideally set to positive eight minutes, plus or minus five minutes.
possible for your vehicle, you should examine the condition of the suspension components, arms and adjustment fixings to ensure the mechanism can move freely. Components of poor condition, seized bolts or aged rubber bushings should all be renewed in axle sets before attempting to adjust. A final point to make is that many manufacturers stipulate that the vehicle is loaded with a specific weight. Over 220kg is required for my 130i for example, distributed between the front and rear seats and boot. As most fast-fit places omit this step anyway (and potentially use slightly different values to compensate), I have also for interest in better comparison.
Camber on the rear of the 130i can be adjusted by loosening an eccentric bolt (circled) that adjusts the camber control arm – see step 6 below for rear toe which is a similar procedure.
1
Some vehicles have fixed rear toe, but aftermarket shims (arrowed) can be purchased to place between the stub axle and subframe to control this. Both toe and camber can be altered using the shims depending on the angle you place them.
2
Front camber on the 130i is adjustable via the top mount bolts, but the pin holding the strut in place has to be removed/cut.
3
On some other vehicles the front camber can be adjusted by loosening the lower balljoint fixings and moving the hub in or out slightly.
4
Alternatively, the front camber may be adjusted where the strut attaches to the hub knuckle on some vehicles. Some aftermarket components can replace the standard bolt for an eccentric one to provide a slight alteration to the angle when tightening.
5
Once camber has been checked, with the toe arm adjustment nut loosened at the rear axle, it is possible to turn the eccentric bolt which moves the arm in and out. Ensure adequate support is in place by way of further axle stands when under the vehicle. Also ensure not to disturb any of the alignment jig even slightly as this will change all the figures you have measured, and you will have to measure all four corners again! Remeasure the values of the wheel adjusted and take note of the results in the online calculator. Repeat for the other side on the rear until the measurements are close to manufacturer’s specification. Do not fine tune at this stage.
6
42 Car Mechanics DIY Wheel Alignment.indd 42
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 09:46
DIY WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Moving to the front of the vehicle, loosen the locking nut against the track rod end (TRE), but ensure to clean up the threads for smooth adjustment first. In this example the TREs were replaced with new febi ones turning them back to approximately the positions of the old set as a starting point. Be sure to remove the outer boot clip to stop the boot from twisting when you begin adjusting!
7
FINAL NOTES
While counter-holding the TRE, turn the hexagonal portion of the track rod to extend or shorten it. When fine tuning, as little as 1/16th of a turn can have a measurable effect on the toe.
8
When happy with the alignment, tighten up the locking nuts for all components to manufacturer’s torque specification, ensuring to counter-hold any adjustment screws so they do not move. Don’t be surprised if the alignment measurements have changed after tightening things down as components can shift slightly.
9
Verdict While a good amount of time was spent preparing the 130i, it didn’t take too long to adjust the front and rear to nearly within manufacturer’s tolerance. I managed to correct the offset steering wheel and the car’s handling seemed very good after the initial adjustment. To confirm my figures, I popped down to my local Kwik Fit to see how close my readings matched their laser machine; turns out, fairly close. Camber on the front was accurate within less than five minutes (1/12th of a degree). The rear left camber was a little less than half a degree different (it may be due to the alloy wheel’s edge being scuffed), while the rear right was shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME DIY Wheel Alignment.indd 43
After adjusting the front TREs, glance at the steering wheel zip-tie indicator to ensure it is still pointing in the middle. If not, now is the time to move the steering wheel back until it is centred. Be careful not to touch the string or jig! Remeasure the values of the wheel adjusted and enter in the online calculator, repeating for the other side if necessary. You may start to see calculated values changing slightly on other wheels, which takes into account the total alignment of the vehicle. Repeat steps 6-8 until you are within manufacturer’s specification. If a large adjustment was made it is always worth rechecking the marks on the sides of the wheel are still perpendicular to the string. If not, erase the marks and using a spirit level remark the locations. Once the vehicle is lowered, perform a test drive, checking for any pulling or veering. When in doubt, always have your suspension checked by a professional. A Kwik Fit alignment printout. Comparing my figures to the ‘before’ values shows the DIY measurements were quite close to what the Hunter laser machine calculated. The front camber was not adjusted and was purposely left more negative at my request, hence them appearing out of spec.
just nine minutes of a difference. The total front toe was within 12 minutes (1/5th of a degree) and the total rear toe was within one minute (1/60th of a degree)! In terms of both time and cost, there is an initial investment in acquiring and setting up some equipment, but cheaper alternatives are available if budgets are tight, and it can certainly be an affordable option. As far as time is concerned after the initial setup, to get a figure close to manufacturer’s specification will take between five and ten attempts with trial and error. If you have tight space to work, it can be tricky to navigate around all corners of the car without disturbing the jig. Plan for at
least two or three hours, especially if it’s your first go, but don’t expect to get all the values dead-on. With a lot of fast-fit centres offering free alignment checks it may make sense to go here first to see whether alignment is even needed. With Kwik Fit’s four-wheel alignment costing £90.90 (for 15 minutes’ work adjusting new components) and considering that alignment should be checked after most major steering or suspension components have been renewed, costs can add up especially with multiple cars to run. Overall, the DIY process does work as long as you’re patient and can save you money in the long run.
Car Mechanics 43
February 2024
07/01/2024 09:47
Rover 75 alternator fix Make no mistake about it, space is tight for doing this job, but given a potential saving of three hours labour and £100+ parts cost, it’s worth a try.
Alternative
ALTERNATOR Fix
Though it didn’t actually work for him, it has for others, and Peter Simpson therefore reckons this in situ repair of a defective diesel 75 alternator is still worth a try.
M
ost cars have jobs that are unusually difficult, and these can sometimes catch out the unwary. For example, someone who doesn’t ‘know’ Rover 75 diesels, and sees one advertised as needing an alternator might assume it’s a quick and easy job. It isn’t. If you want to see first-hand just what doing all this can involve, then I strongly recommend YouTube, and “Hubnut’s” two videos on the subject. Basically though, you’ve got to remove the main drivebelt which is accessed by removing the offside front wheel and wheelarch protector, and then, at the front, by removing the radiator and power steering pump pulley. But even after all that, it’s still not exactly easy to extract the alternator. Garage book time to remove and refit is four hours, and this of course assumes no seized, stuck or breaking of bolts. As a DIY job you’re probably looking at the best part of a day. Or more. There is, though, an alternative approach which is being promoted 44 Car Mechanics Rover 75 alternator repair.indd 44
February 2024
by Southampton-based Discount MG Rover Spares, one of the leading parts supply specialists in all MG/Rover products including the 75. In a nutshell, their method involves renewing the alternator’s brush and rectifier pack – which come as one unit – with the alternator still in place. This is quicker and also cheaper, as a rectifier pack costs only around £35 compared to £130 upwards for a complete alternator.
Easier approach Another advantage of this method in a DIY environment is that the whole job is done from on top; the full swap involves raising the front of the car and going underneath as well as into the offside front wheelarch. I do, though, need to mention three caveats. First, because only one part of the alternator is renewed, there isn’t actually any guarantee that it will work. Brush and/or rectifier pack failure are probably the most common causes of
alternator failure, but they are by no means the only one – and if, for example, the main issue is worn slip rings or bearings, or a fault within the stator wiring, it won’t work. Second, changing the rectifier pack in situ is far from easy – in fact not to put too fine a point on it, it’s extremely fiddly and potentially knuckle-grazing due to the lack of space around the back of the alternator. It definitely helps to have small hands. There’s also no guarantee how long the repair will last. If, for example, it was worn brushes that finally stopped the thing from working, but the slip rings were almost worn out as well, it may give you just a few months longer. But with those provisos, and if you are competent mechanically and/or the sort of person who enjoys working on cars, then it’s probably worth a try. There are two types of rectifier pack. One, with three terminals on the back was, in theory, used up to 2003. After that a different type with two terminals shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 06/01/2024 13:54
Rover 75 alternator fix was used. As usual with MG Rover though, published component changeover dates are little more than a rough guide; I’ve seen supposedly old-style connectors on 2004-on facelifted cars! The big problem, though, is that the connection boxes on both types look identical from the outside, the end is completely invisible, and the only way of telling which you have is by using a small mirror on a stick! Alternatively, MG Rover Parts are quite happy for people to order – and pay for – both types and then send the one they don’t need back for a credit. The picture-sequence shows the key stages, though with barely enough room to get hands in, hands plus a camera was out of the question, and I’ve had to show some of the stages with the alternator off the car. Hopefully though, by seeing the parts out of the car you’ll be able to find the various bolts and connections. In all, it took us just over an hour. Don’t forget to disconnect the battery first of all – fortunately a lot of Rover
sound systems including the highline system on our car aren’t code-protected but check first and maybe invest a fiver or so in a plug-in memory saver, as with Rover having now been a defunct manufacturer for 18 years, stuff like radio codes may not be easy to find.
It’s worth a try Sadly, though, in our case it didn’t work. After the swap the charge-light stayed on, exactly as it had before the repair. So, we had no choice but to do a full alternator swap, and when we got the old one off, it was pretty obvious why it hadn’t worked; our slip-rings were totally shot! You can renew those separately too – a set costs about £22 – but frankly by that point, and especially if the bearings are shot too, you’re getting to the point where an exchange unit is more cost-effective. But despite it not working for us, I still think it was worth a try. I do know of several cases where it has worked, and the suppliers do make clear that it’s
a try-it-and-see solution rather than a guaranteed one. It’s probably most likely to succeed where an alternator has been damaged due to human error such as incorrect battery charging, or on a low mileage vehicle. Treat it as something that’s worth trying before going to the expense of a new unit. One final thing. Taking this car to the garage for repair involved driving it with a non-charging battery, and I imagine a few 75 owners will want to know how far you can go without the battery being charged. Well, I started with a fully-charged battery, and with initial start-up off a booster box so as to retain as much battery power as possible. The garage is just under 15 miles away, and I just about made it. For the last mile or so though a few non-essential electrics stopped working, and a few dash warning lights came on. Don’t panic – it’s just the car being clever, and switching off stuff that you don’t actually need, in order to maximise your chances of getting home.
First job is to determine whether you have a two or three-contact alternator plug. Remove the connector on the back of the alternator, and then use a mirror-on-a-stick – you won’t be able to see the end without one.
1
This is the connector you are looking at – off the car here so you can see it. Both two and three-connector types are in identical-sized boxes.
2
You also need to move the power steering reservoir out of the way by undoing the three bolts holding its bracket down. These can snap off, so penetrating oil is recommended.
4
3
A certain amount of deck-clearing is needed. Specifically, the top engine cover has to come off, followed by the complete air intake assembly seen here.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Rover 75 alternator repair.indd 45
Car Mechanics 45
February 2024
06/01/2024 13:54
Rover 75 alternator fix
From now on, I need to show you what to do with the alternator off the engine due to lack of camera-access space. After disconnecting the main alternator terminal, remove the alternator back-cover, held on with two 7mm bolts.
5
The rectifier pack is held on by a further three 7mm bolts, after which it can be teased off. You need to move it down and out at the same time while also twisting slightly. The next three photos show the shape of what you are removing.
6
With the rectifier pack out, a possible cause of the problem was immediately apparent. The alternator brushes were in a very bad way indeed, and at this stage we were optimistic that renewing them might bring the alternator back to life.
7
The replacement rectifier pack; complete with ‘free gift’ from Discount MG Rover Parts!
8
From the other side, showing the size of the new brushes. Fitting these over the slip rings requires care, and temporary removal of the black plastic cover – a high degree of manual dexterity helps!
9
THANKS TO
Discount MG Rover Spares Unit 25, Glenmore Business Park, Lime Kiln Lane, Southampton, Hants SO45 2AR. Tel: 02380 001133 www.dmgrs.co.uk email sales@dgmgrs.co.uk Dawson Motors Unit 24, Second Drove, Fengate Peterborough PE1 5XA. Tel: 07504 552063
Sadly, in our 11 case the repair
a useful technique which 10 Here’s I recommend when removing and fitting
the various alternator bolts. Use strong doublesided tape. Even if you KNOW that you won’t drop that particular bolt into the engine bay and have to take the belly tray off to retrieve it!
46 Car Mechanics Rover 75 alternator repair.indd 46
February 2024
didn’t work, and once the old alternator was off, the reason was clear for all to see. The slip rings were completely worn out. You can change these with soldering to the wiring, but it’s fiddly, and as the main bearings were also worn, we decided to just fit a new one.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 06/01/2024 13:54
ADVERTISING DOESN’T COST,
IT PAYS!
TO ADVERTISE, CALL NAT ON: 01732 445674 OR EMAIL:
5% Discount off List Price
on Presentation of this Advert
NATALIE@TALK-MEDIA.UK
Car Mech_2023_03_Mar_Mech-Mate Motorpits_QP.indd 1 Car Mech_2023_03_Mar_Mech-Mate Motorpits_QP.indd 1 Car Mech_2023_03_Mar_Mech-Mate Motorpits_QP.indd 1
31/01/2023 15:08 31/01/2023 15:08 31/01/2023 15:08
Car Mech_2023_03_Mar_Mech-Mate Motorpits_QP.indd 1
31/01/2023 15:08
INTELLIGENT BATTERY CHARGING RSCP3024
Smartcharge Pro 30A Battery Charger
12V and 24V compatible battery chargers ideal for intensive use with fleets of mixed vehicles including cars, LCV and HGVs, plus in commercial garages and workshops.
Smartcharge Pro 60A Battery Charger & Starter
RSCP5024
12/24V
12/24V
LCD Voltage
RSCP60T
Display
Battery test
Alternator test
Battery recondition
Rapid Charge
Smartcharge Pro 50A Battery Charger IDEAL FOR
MIXED FLEET DEPOTS
RSCP10024
Smartcharge Pro 100A Battery Charger OUR
FASTEST CHARGING UNIT
100A
Contact your local Ring stockist www.ringautomotive.com 14979-08 CarMechanics ad 188x132mm.indd 1
/ringautomotive 22/02/2023 13:48
Your Letters DIY MECHANICS DOWN UNDER
My son lives in a rural Australian community about 30 miles north of Melbourne and has a Subaru Forester petrol 2/4WD about 10 years old. He has had some issues with slight shimmy from the brakes but not easily identifiable as to cause. A full set of discs and pads were ordered up and I prepared for the struggle of removal from experience of UK cars. The first axle took two hours once I had the layout of fixings, etc. The remaining three were then done in 1.5 hours and cured the problem. Very little rust to sieze anything, just dust to brush off. The next job was to fit a towbar – kit duly ordered and it came with three fastening, for the towball and new exhaust hanger as well as a wiring harness. A simple fit with no need to remove the rear bumper, etc. About eight M12 bolts were removed from the chassis and the towbar, with about 1mm trimming on the corners with an angle grinder, it fitted nicely. Replacing the bolts did not feel quite right and on inspection it was revealed that these bolts were only engaging about two threads into the captive nuts in the chassis. Fortunately the local DIY stores were able to supply high-tensile M12 fine bolts in longer sizes. These were plated and looked like brass! All reassembled and working fine, but no warnings in the instructions about sourcing new bolts. In the UK these bolts would have been supplied with the kit. In Australia there is a lot of trade protection and licenced technicians; but electrical, plumbing, automotive spares are easily available in DIY outlets. While their cars last a lot longer due to lack of salt on the road, there is no MOT as such, only an inspection if/when the car is sold. Transfers in a family are not considered a sale, so there are some right heaps on the roads; but also some superb classics. Unleaded fuel sold in Australia has up to 20% ethanol and again apparently cheaper, but lower MPG. Examining the combustion process, this is based on a given mass of fuel being burnt, but we buy fuel by volume (litres). Ethanol is a lower density liquid than fuel (Kg per litre), so in simple terms a litre of fuel with ethanol has less fuel to burn than a litre of fuel without ethanol; hence you get less fuel for the small reduction in fuel price. It would be interesting to know how well this fits in with the lower price and I suspect the lower cost of materials. The only real guide would be to compare cost of fuel with MPG achieved. It looks like a profit margin riding on the back of “helping the environment”. Ed Dining
NO FLUID TOPUPS
Following JE Kirby’s letter (CM, July 23) about topping up brake reservoirs; I wholeheartedly agree. I have always been wary of doing this ever since having the brake fluid overflow once when pushing back pistons. So for the past 30 years I have never added brake fluid at a minor service; simply just checked the level. As he says, the level should slowly go down, although in my experience the fluid is renewed before much of a level drop is noticed. I am glad I am not the only one who has saved the opening of the bottle of brake fluid for doing renewals or after repairs. Ian Hildrew
OIL LIKE TAR
Getting into some DIY tasks as a very amateur home mechanic has been hugely rewarding. I’m nowhere near tackling anything too tricky and will still resort to a professional where needed, but I’m getting more confident and love getting stuck into routine tasks. The trouble is, word obviously gets around that you ‘can do cars’ and I had a neighbour approach me last week and ask me to take a look at their motor. He said he knew nothing at all about cars, which is fine, and hadn’t had his in for a service for a few years and it was starting to run poorly. Alarm bells started ringing but I agreed to have a quick look. My first thought was he was likely well overdue for an oil change if it hadn’t been serviced for a while so I checked the dipstick and was definitely not happy with what I saw. Up the car went and I cracked open the sump plug to have what I can only describe as tar come folding out. Turns out it hadn’t been changed in about 35,000 miles! I pointed him straight to the garage and he has told me today that he’s awaiting collection of a new car now as he was told his was completely ruined. Nothing wrong with not being able to do things yourself, but I’ll never understand why people neglect simple preventative maintenance. I’ve agreed to keep on top of the new one for him moving forwards as apparently he doesn’t trust garages! Chris Stott
EV OBSERVATION
I have a couple of comments on the Tesla Model 3 article you printed in the December 2023 issue: Sunroofs sticking – the model 3 has a fixed glass roof which doesn’t open. I think the sticking roof comments apply to the sunroof equipped Model S. Also if buying or owning a car which is coming to the end of its 5-year, 50,000 warranty, particularly if at the higher mileage end, it is worth getting an independent inspection carried out a couple of months before warranty end. Cleevely EV seem particularly knowledgeable on what to look for. A number of people have had quite a lot of work done to their Teslas, some into thousands of pounds. Usually worn suspension joints, etc., carried-out under warranty as a result of furnishing inspection reports rather than paying out themselves later in ownership. Steve Everitt
48 Car Mechanics
February 2024
Your Letters FEBRUARY 2024.indd 48
Please send your letters either by writing or sending an email...
E-MAIL to: martyn.knowles@ kelsey.co.uk
WRITE to:
Martyn Knowles, Car Mechanics, Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL. Please include a postal address with letters submitted by email.
ICE AGE
I’ve been reading the articles on ‘Long Time Readers’ with great interest and thought the attached photograph might give you a laugh. Free gifts on car magazines used to be a regular thing back in the day. My collection of ‘smiley’ mugs are long gone but the ice scraper still works even though I’ve had it since 1982! I’m retired now but still carry out the odd oil change and disc/ pad renewal – so I really enjoy the Service Bay section. Keep up the good work. Alan McVicker Martyn Knowles responds: Thanks Alan, nice to hear from you and glad you are still keeping the spanners active as well as yourself. Yes, front cover gifts were all the rage back in the day. Bigger gifts or extra magazines tended to be placed inside a see-through bag, but that had the opposite effect on magazine sales – mostly because potential readers couldn’t ‘thumb’ through what they were about to buy. Unfortunately, if the cover gift went missing from the magazine cover, the publishers had to find a way of sending out extras to those who complained. In the end, gifts were being pinched from the covers – that put a nail in the coffin of them being an incentive to attract extra readership.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 13:20
OE FUEL FILTER
STAR
LETTER
I refer to the Diagnostics Doctor letter (CM, Nov23, p95). I had a rather similar experience with a 2012 Hyundai i30 1.6 diesel. It was way down on power, sluggish when overtaking and, when travelling up a minor hill a downshift was necessary. The car was due a service. It was serviced – all filters were changed. After the service the cars performance had improved – but was not back to normal. I was stumped as to what was the issue. It was starting perfectly every time. About 800/900 miles after the service I pulled in to a filling station, which has a garage attached. One of the mechanics was on the forecourt, dealing with another person. When he was finished I told him of my difficulty. His first question was – has the car been serviced at its due date. It had been. He then asked me if I had fitted a genuine Hyundai/Kia fuel filter. I could not remember the make of the fuel filter I had fitted, as I had got it at the Motor Factors – but it was not a genuine Hyundai/Kia fuel filter. Straightaway he told me that was the cause of my issues – a spurious fuel filter. He told me to get a genuine Hyundai/Kia fuel filter and fit it. He went on to tell me that the garage had come across this issue with spurious fuel filters, and that they only fit genuine Hyundai/Kia fuel filters when carrying out services. I got a genuine Hyundai/Kia fuel filter. I took off the one I had put on round 800/900 miles previously – the filters looked identical, apart from each being a different colour. I fitted the genuine Hyundai/Kia fuel filter. The i30 was back to its normal self – no hesitancy running and driving perfectly. Michael Carty
BYGONE ACCESSORIES
Having just read the article on 30 accessories (CM, October 2023) from times gone by, I just had to raise the following as not included in your listing. What about those DIY alarm systems popular in the late 80s by Moss. Depending on budget you could buy differing systems or could even add to your existing alarm with ultrasonic sensors or shock sensors as you saved up some money. One squelch for armed and two squelches for disarmed. Also the humble road atlas where you would sit down and plan your journey for holidays before setting off. I remember hard-backed atlases by the AA and the likes. Also those black sun louvre guards you could buy for your rear window and normally fitted to Ford Cortinas with the raised suspension you mentioned. Bodykits were also widely available from the likes of Ripspeed, the catalogue being a wishlist for how you could hot up your motor. And big rear shelf mounted speakers by Goodmans, no less than 100 watts would do. And what ever happened to the Motor World franchise? John Wadamson
HOT WASHERS
After reading your ‘Top 30 car accessories from the past’, one accessory I fitted to my 1990 Fiat 127 GT was a windscreen washer fluid heater. You cut out a section of the hose leading to the heater matrix and put in a metal pipe. The pipe had a plastic reservoir around it and connections for the pipes from the washer pump and to the washer jets. The hot water going to the heater warmed the fluid. It did work. On a cold day the washer fluid would steam. Some high-end cars have heater elements in the washer reservoirs but I haven’t seen this accessory since I bought one. John Fisher
WHAT DO PEOPLE THINK IS MEANT BY A VEHICLE SERVICE?
The term ‘Vehicle Service’ is used to describe many different levels of maintenance. So, it’s hardly surprising some people think it only involves an engine oil change, but other people think it is an in-depth inspection and full reconditioning of their vehicle. I’m now happily retired, but was a manager in charge of a vehicle workshop maintaining a large fleet of emergency vehicles. An apparently intelligent senior officer once demanded that I sign a written guarantee that all serviced vehicles returned from the workshop would never develop any faults, or break down,
until they were due for their next scheduled vehicle service. I told the senior officer that even the manufacturer’s warranty on a new vehicle does not guarantee that it won’t develop faults or break down – they only say that faults that develop on the vehicle during the warranty period will be repaired free-of-charge. He was absolutely adamant that he was correct, so he contacted the vehicle manufacturer to confirm his opinion, who politely informed him that the manufacturer’s warranty did not guarantee their
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Your Letters FEBRUARY 2024.indd 49
new vehicles would not develop faults or break down. He never discussed the subject with me again, because he was far too arrogant a person to ever admit that he was wrong. Jim McLaughlin Martyn Knowles responds: Like Christ Stott on the opposite page, I can never understand why some people spend thousands on a vehicle, then don’t follow a service plan. My neighbour thinks the MOT test is a service. £40 well spent. Lucky, for her, I’m here to service their Qashqai once a year!
STAR
LETTER The reader awarded the STAR letter will receive a Sealey LED318G lamp Features stepless dimmer switch for both the main COB and the LED torch. Featuring a super bright 5W COB LED light source, which gives an even and constant spread of light, producing up to 400 lumens. Built-in emergency power bank to charge mobile devices. Top 3W high power LED torch producing up to 100 lumens. Integral hanging hook/belt clip and a magnetic base which can rotate through 180° for handsfree applications. Features a battery level indicator. Rechargeable 3.7V 1.2Ah Li-ion battery for longer life, no memory effect and a much slower discharge than traditional Ni-MH batteries.
SCAM
I forgot to renew my VED (Road Tax) on the 1st of the month so, to do it as quick as possible, I went online and paid through the DVLA website. I’d never done it this way before. Always went into my local subPost Office. It went through with no problems with credit card transaction though I did have to put in contact details including my mobile phone. Three days later, I get a text message – DVLA: As part of our routine check, we need to verify your driver’s licence record. Act on: my-dvla. national-uk.com. Needless to say I won’t be clicking on that link! Also, my car insurance is due. I got the renewal quote in the post and nearly had a heart attack – up from £149 to £423. A phone call managed to get the price down to £352 but I’m still not happy. Going through one of the many comparison websites secured a quote at £159 on similar terms with the advantage of slightly lower excess – an hour well spent. Colin Waterman
Car Mechanics 49
February 2024
08/01/2024 13:20
Buying, Owning & Improving
Ian Cushway searches out new and used parts prices
Jaguar XJ (X351) For a dream mix of luxury, looks and performance you’ll be more than content with the last of the line XJ.
I
f traditional Jaguar buyers were taken aback by the XF when it was rolled out as a replacement for the S-TYPE, the firm’s treatment of the new XJ in 2009 was even more controversial. Like the old car, it was sleek and easy on the eye – but here’s the rub. It couldn’t have looked more different to the old X350, a design that had gently evolved over the past five decades since the first XJ appeared in 1968. Like most of us, Jaguar had learned to keep a close eye on weight and had pioneered the use of aluminium, magnesium and composite alloys on its previous XJ. However, to add refinement and create more room inside, the firm made the X351 both wider and longer,
which resulted in the new car being heavier than its predecessor. And this probably explains why Jaguar didn’t bother with the puny 240bhp 2.0-litre four-cylinder here, thinking it would have been a step too far for diehard XJ enthusiasts. Instead, initially there was the naturally-aspirated 5.0-litre V8 and the 3.0d V6 twin-turbo diesel which offered punchy performance and the potential for 40mpg. A supercharged version of the V8 appeared in the XJR version from 2013 and soon after Jaguar added its supercharged 3.0-litre AJ V6 petrol engine to the line-up. Alas, in a market where versatility is key and SUVs continue to attract the biggest
slice of buyers, luxury five-seater saloons have become increasingly niche and even the XJ’s supercar-like performance couldn’t save it from extinction. Indeed, by the end of 2018 monthly XJ sales had dwindled into their hundreds – hence the decision to call a halt to XJ proceedings in July 2019 with the last, unsold cars being registered in 2020. Visually the X351 changed very little throughout its production lifespan, although there was a revision in 2012 when more alloy components were added to the suspension to improve handling and the eight-speed ZF auto transmission from the XF replaced the original six-speed ’box. Then, in 2018, there was a more substantial refresh when all models received a revised cabin with a 10in touchscreen and more safety equipment which now included Autonomous Emergency Braking.
Those sweeping LED rear lights gave the X351 a much different look to previous XJ models.
NOTHING COMPARES TO THE ORIGINAL OE REPLACEMENT FROM GERMANY’S PREMIUM OEM
50 Car Mechanics
February 2024
BUY + OWN JAGUAR XJ X351.indd 50
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:38
Buying/Owning/Improving Jaguar XJ X351
Which model?
BILSTEIN range
WATER PUMP Main dealer £194.24 Independent from £55.84
BILSTEIN B6. THE OE UPGRADE. The yellow BILSTEIN B6 gas pressure shock absorber delivers OE replacement with additional performance – for all those who do not want to make any compromises in terms of performance and comfort even in situations of increased stress for the component.
BILSTEIN B3. THE COIL SPRING BENCHMARK. Our OE replacement spring range BILSTEIN B3 offers the compelling quality of original equipment of German top automobile manufacturers.
workshop.bilstein.com
SPARK PLUG EACH Main dealer £23.05 Independent from £12.18
Visit our workshop portal
04.04.22 13:28
bilstein.com
V6 twin-turbo 3.0d XJ351 is quick, frugal and by far the most common in the classifieds.
BILSTEIN B3
Bilstein B4 – AMC Damper 44-240578 For pneumatic suspension vehicles Rear axle – £1052.16 (ea). Bilstein B4 – AMC Damper 26-240565 For vehicles with electronic suspension control Front axle – £311.04 (ea).
While radically different to what had gone before, one tradition the X351 did carry over was the XJ’s propensity to shed value, which is good news for today’s buyers because prices start at £5000 for an early diesel with plenty of miles under its belt. If that sounds like a tempting prospect, read on to find out what’s it like in terms of running costs, reliability and parts…
The X351’s track record is good when it comes to reliability. That said, watch for leaky coolant header tanks, cracked inlet manifolds and damaged breather pipe O-rings (where they locate in the throttle body), the latter two of which could result in the engine bay showing traces of oil mist. For the 2016 model year, Jaguar restyled the front-end – this is a 3.0d in Portfolio trim.
BILS-OER-DIV-017-21_AZ_Image_Terminplaner_A4_EN_220328_RZ.indd 1
OIL FILTER Main dealer £43.43 Independent from £23.98
Bilstein replacement dampers are available for the whole X351 range (except diesel models). More details on the Bilstein website.
Engines
thyssenkrupp Bilstein GmbH, August-Bilstein-Straße 4, 58256 Ennepetal, Germany
Engine component prices
BILSTEIN B4. THE GAS PRESSURE PIONEER. For over 60 years, the BILSTEIN B4 monotube gas pressure shock absorber has been delighting customers with its outstanding comfort. Today, it is available for almost every car model – even as a twin-tube variant.
BILSTEIN B4 AIR SUSPENSION MODULE. THE HIGH-TECH SOLUTION. Jointly with Mercedes-Benz, we have developed the revolutionary BILSTEIN B4 air suspension module for maximum driving comfort. It combines damping, suspension and level adjustment in one component – for active and passive systems.
Trim levels start with the Autobiography, followed by the Luxury, Portfolio, Premium Luxury, R-Sport, XJR, Supersport and Ultimate, not forgetting to mention the 50th anniversary 3.0d XJ50. Even the base model will make you feel spoilt as all XJs are laden with luxuries. Sought after options include massaging rear seats, Sports and Speed packs which add visual drama in the form of black gloss trim and 20in Venom alloys, and the Meridian 825W sound system if you like your music. Engine choice is down to personal preference, but we’d be tempted to push the boat out and go for the V8; it’s the engine that best suits the plutocratic nature of this car. Either way, we’d broaden our budget to buy a post-2012 example which is considered a sounder prospect when it comes to reliability and boasts the superior eight-speed auto.
Replacement spring range to OE spec shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME BUY + OWN JAGUAR XJ X351.indd 51
Car Mechanics 51
February 2024
07/01/2024 11:38
Buying, Owning & Improving
Brake component prices FRONT DISCS PAIR Main dealer £286.07 Independent from £235.98 (Brembo)
CONTINUED
FRONT BRAKE PADS Main dealer £342.92 Independent from £117.99 (Brembo)
There’s ample room for weekend luggage in the 520-litre capacity boot.
Steering/suspension component prices REAR AIR DAMPER Main dealer £1291.02 Independent from £674.99
Panoramic roof is nice, but its frame can corrode – tackle any rust before it takes hold.
FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM FRONT MOST
Main dealer £279.24 Independent from £143.99
Running costs
What to pay Diesels abound in the classifieds, so these will be the most affordable XJs from this era, with as little as £5000 being enough to buy an early one with at least 100,000 miles under its belt from a private vendor. In our opinion though it would be wiser to spend at least double this on a newer car with fewer miles from a dealer so there’s at least some comeback if there’s an issue. The cheapest V8 we spotted was £12,000, but again it might be worth spending more on a post-2012 example. 3.0-litre V6 petrols are a rare sight in the classifieds, and these start at £20,000. As a guide, the very last XJs will be £45,000 if you shop at a main dealer.
, August-Bilstein-Straße 4, 58256 Ennepetal, Germany
The ubiquitous diesel is quick and should return 30mpg in town and close to 50mpg on a long journey. At the other end of the spectrum, the supercharged V8 is unlikely to do much more than 25mpg on a run. The V6 supercharged petrol is a good compromise as it feels quicker than the diesel but will still do 30mpg. The cheapest XJ to insure is the 3.0 V6 petrol which comes in at group 48, the rest are group 50, while annual VED ranges from £200 for the diesel to £695 for the V8, depending on year.
Suspension/steering Like its predecessor, the X351 boasts air suspension at the rear with variable damping and an electronically-controlled rear diff which offers excellent body control – although some comment that the previous car’s magic carpet ride has been compromised to an extent in favour of safer, more balanced handling at higher speeds. Moreover, those air struts have been known to leak and rattle over time and news ones are pricey. Still, it’s a good setup and by utilising conventional coilovers at the front allied to a quick-ratio power steering, the car feels surprisingly light, responsive and easy to drive. Worn front control arm and rear lower arm bushes can cause uneven tyre wear, while upper wishbone bushes can also let go on high-mileage XJs. Jaguar sell only the complete arms, though if you’re just replacing the bushes, then go for uprated Powerflex items which are £113.90 a set. If there’s knocking on a test drive suspect the anti-roll bar 04.04.22 13:28
bilstein.com
required 35,000 miles. Water pumps can fail, too, especially on the V8 and supercharged 3.0-litre V6. Coolant gets into the bearing, causing the impeller to run out of true and wear the seal, so watch for low coolant warning lights and leaks near the coolant pulley. Transmission-wise, that eight-speed ZF auto from 2012 was more reliable than the unit it replaced but it helps to replace the fluid and filter every 80,000 miles or ten years to keep things shifting smoothly. Various companies, including Celtic Tuning, offer remaps for the V6 diesel with a claimed increase from 271 to 322bhp and a useful extra 52lb ft of torque.
BILSTEIN B4. THE GAS PRESSURE PIONEER. For over 60 years, the BILSTEIN B4 monotube gas pressure shock absorber has been delighting customers with its outstanding comfort. Today, it is available for almost every car model – even as a twin-tube variant.
BILSTEIN B4 AIR SUSPENSION MODULE. THE HIGH-TECH SOLUTION. Jointly with Mercedes-Benz, we have developed the revolutionary BILSTEIN B4 air suspension module for maximum driving comfort. It combines damping, suspension and level adjustment in one component – for active and passive systems.
The diesel XJs had a cambelt which is usually due for replacement every seven years or 112,000 miles, the V8s and supercharged 3.0 V6 had chains. A known issue on early examples of the latter engines is chain jump caused by worn tensioners, so be wary of tell-tale rattles. Missed maintenance or the use of the wrong oil can lead to the same result, so listen out for this when viewing older, well-travelled cars for sale because replacing the chain will be at least £2000. There’s been reports of crankshaft failure due to oil starvation on the 3.0-litre diesel, so listen for any knocking from the bottom end. Also on the diesel, be sure that the service reset has been performed because the diesel particulate filter relies on this information when determining when to conduct a regen procedure and if this isn’t done when required, fuel can be dumped into the engine oil and can wreck the engine. The V8’s direct injection can result in carbon build up around the inlet valves so insist on looking through receipts to ensure those oil and filter regimes have been religiously adhered to and that the spark plugs have been replaced at the
BILSTEIN B4
Comfort for over 60 years
February 2024 EIN B6 gas pressure shock s OE replacement with mance – for all those who do e any compromises in terms and comfort even in situations ss for the component.
ENCHMARK. ent spring range rs the compelling quality ment of German top ufacturers.
BUY + OWN JAGUAR XJ X351.indd 52
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 11:38
EN_220328_RZ.indd 1
52 Car Mechanics
04.04.22 13:28
bilstein.com
BILSTEIN B4. THE GAS PRESSURE PIONEER. For over 60 years, the BILSTEIN B4 monotube gas pressure shock absorber has been delighting customers with its outstanding comfort. Today, it is available for almost every car model – even as a twin-tube variant.
Other component prices
Brakes
There’s discs all-round and an electronic parking brake on the XJ, the latter of which can drag if there’s servo motor issues which will cause excessive pad wear and the discs to overheat.
USEFUL CONTACTS Bilstein www.bilstein.com
We’ve included prices here for known brand aftermarket discs and pads as it always pays to choose the best quality items you can. As far as upgrades go, there’s really little reason to stray much beyond fitting a set of EBC Red Stuff pads (£93.99 from ECP) which are competitively priced compared to main agent pads.
Other issues
The glass sunroof frames can corrode which, if caught early enough, can be rubbed down and treated (a tape is available to finish things off).
Jaguar XJ X351 2009-2019 Engine (cc) Power (bhp) 0-60mph (sec) Top Speed (mph) Average fuel (mpg)
3.0d 2993 295 5.9 155 35.7
3.0 V6 2995 335 5.7 155 30.0
BILS-OER-DIV-017-21_AZ_Image_Terminplaner_A4_EN_220328_RZ.indd 1
droplinks, mounts or lower mounting bush for the front coilover.
thyssenkrupp Bilstein GmbH, August-Bilstein-Straße 4, 58256 Ennepetal, Germany
ALTERNATOR Main dealer £937.55 Independent from £264.99 Eurojag £102 (used)
BILSTEIN B6. THE OE UPGRADE. The yellow BILSTEIN B6 gas pressure shock absorber delivers OE replacement with additional performance – for all those who do not want to make any compromises in terms of performance and comfort even in situations of increased stress for the component.
BILSTEIN B3. THE COIL SPRING BENCHMARK. Our OE replacement spring range BILSTEIN B3 offers the compelling quality of original equipment of German top automobile manufacturers.
BILSTEIN B4 AIR SUSPENSION MODULE. THE HIGH-TECH SOLUTION. Jointly with Mercedes-Benz, we have developed the revolutionary BILSTEIN B4 air suspension module for maximum driving comfort. It combines damping, suspension and level adjustment in one component – for active and passive systems.
Interior represents the height of opulence; sought after options include rear massage seats, DVD players and upgraded audios.
5.0 5000 502 4.7 155 25.0
XJR 5000 566 4.2 186 25.0
Berkshire Jag Components 0118 978 7896 www.berkshirejagcomponents.com Celtic Tuning www.celtictuning.co.uk Euro Car Parts www.eurocarparts.com Eurojag www.eurojag.com
While rust won’t be an issue, don’t buy a car with accident damage that extends beyond the plastic bumpers because many panels are glued and riveted making them tricky to repair. Finally, alternator failure on diesels isn’t unheard of so check there’s no dash warning lights.
Verdict Some will see the X351 as largely irrelevant, while for others it represents a chance to savour a luxury Jaguar saloon at its finest for not very much money. It’s a sophisticated beast, though, so only buy one with an impeccable service history. As we’ve shown, reliability is good, but a warranty will offer extra peace of mind. There’s scope for shopping around for parts, but you can’t cut corners with a car like this so only opt for the best aftermarket products if you shop outside the main dealer network.
BILSTEIN B6
Performance OE replacements shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME BUY + OWN JAGUAR XJ X351.indd 53
Car Mechanics 53
February 2024
07/01/2024 11:38
Dealer’s Diary
Peter Simpson provides us with an insight into the automotive sales trading world – and beyond.
A mistake?
I may have boobed slightly on a recent purchase. The car in question is a 2003/53 Saab 9-3 Aero saloon which, on paper, seemed to have pretty-much everything going for it; two owners from new, warranted 64,000 miles and an absolutely fabulous service history. It’s also the full turbo 210bhp petrol version. It was BCA listed as Grade 3 – unusual for a 20-year-old car – and came with a clean ‘Essentials’ report. But it was that history which really sold the beast to me – 15 stamps on a 20-year-old low-mileage car that’s supposed to be done every two years. Better still, when I collected the Saab, I saw that it had been serviced by a main dealer until 2010 and thereafter by a highly respected south east London Saab specialist. Who, it seemed, had also sold the car to its last owner. I drove the car back from Enfield, London; BCA’s delivery charges seem to have gone up a fair bit recently so, as the Saab seemed to have three-quarters of a tank of fuel, I reckoned five hours of time and £30 on the train was more cost-effective than £200 for a transporter-delivery. Be careful though, BCA Enfield is just inside the ULEZ zone – fortunately the Saab 9-3 turbo, despite being 20 years old and having 232g/km emissions, is ULEZ-compliant. I paid very strong money for this Saab – my thinking being that a Saab enthusiast somewhere would recognise that a car on which everything; spec, mileage, service history and overall condition – was worth paying a bit extra for. But an ad on eBay resulted in lots of lookers but no takers. And mentioning it on a Facebook Saabs for sale site was a huge mistake. On reflection I should perhaps have put a bit more effort into preparation; I put a year’s MOT on it (with only one advisory for a greased brake pipe) and had it cleaned inside and out, but that was basically it. But once one Facebook person had said – politely and probably with justification – that I could have improved the car significantly at little cost by fitting new Saab badges,
Saab 9-3 Aero about to be driven to South Lincolnshire from BCA Enfield.
blacking the bumper inserts and changing a couple of worn switches on the heater control panel, all hell broke loose! Comments like “bet it’s got cheap Chinese tyres” (no – it’s got Pirellis on the front and Continentals on the back), “probably paid a grand for it” (double that and add a bit) “worth £1500 tops” and “it’s an auto, should be a manual” came thick and fast. Maybe the market for these cars isn’t yet ready to accept that they are worth preserving, and that when buying with long-term ownership in mind, it really is better in the long run to pay more at the start for something a bit special. Anyway, the current plan is to try again on eBay at £2795 once I’ve fitted new badges (which cost all of £8.99 delivered) and applied some black to the appropriate places. But as I’ve said before here, advertising cars in Facebook groups does seem to require the thickest of thick skins.
Old Pete’s Almanack As this is the first issue to be published in 2024, here are my personal predictions for what might or might not happen, motor trade wise, over the next twelve months. Like the back row bargains though, these are all ‘as seen and without warranty.’ Firstly, I think used car prices will fall in 2024 as supply chain problems are resolved and the main issue currently affecting take-up of electric vehicles (a lack of charging points where they are needed) becomes easier. I also think that the muchpublicised recent drops in the price of some electric cars will further increase uptake, and the (quite literal) switchover will continue. Yes. there have been teething troubles, but that happens with most new technologies. A lot of people know this and wait until such problems are resolved before buying; my gut feeling is that we’re on the cusp of take-up taking off. And more widespread availability of electric cars will inevitably increase pressure on petrol and (especially) diesel car prices. But at the other end of the value-spectrum, I think the minimum price for a roadworthy/worthwhile car is likely to
54 Car Mechanics
February 2024
DEALERS DIARY FEBRUARY 2024.indd 54
settle at around £500 and that’s for something which might well not get through another test. The days of the £250 banger to drive forever are over; most cars are now worth more than that for scrap! And with today’s cars containing far more valuable metals (alloy wheels, catalytic converters, etc., and modern methods meaning much more is recovered for recycling, the days of scrap cars having low or even negative values have, I’m sure, gone for good. On the dealer side of things, I reckon we’re going to see further rationalisation – the past twelve months have seen something of a polarisation in terms of profitability, with some groups having record years and others seeing massive year-on-year drops. Interestingly, there seem to be old and new, corporate and privately owned, and traditional and online-based groups in both camps! There is, though, little doubt that the overall car retailing environment is going through massive change. We’re seeing the rise of agency sales of new cars – where the ‘dealer’ simply
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 05/01/2024 13:55
Dealer’s Diary
London pride
Over the past few months, I’ve seen increasing numbers of 40+ year old – and thus MOT-exempt and free road tax – cars being advertised as ‘ULEZ exempt’ or similar. I’ve also seen some evidence of people who are adversely affected by ULEZ zones in London and elsewhere buying classics in order to avoid paying the charge and/or having to buy a newish car. As a classic car enthusiast, I’ve got mixed feelings about this. On the one hand, anything that brings more people into the hobby has to be good news. Old-car ownership is in real danger of becoming an older-person’s hobby as those of us who remember Morris Minors, Ford Cortinas and so on in daily use suddenly find that we are Young No Longer. But I’ve also got concerns. The main one is that the classic car movement’s case for exemption was based on the cars being retained for historic purposes, and not being used as everyday transport. If the authorities see that changing, it would be easy and, I suppose, quite justifiable, to end the classic exemption. The other concern is that many people who buy a classic to get round ULEZ may not fully appreciate what ownership actually involves. Cars of the 1960s, 1970s and early 1980s were, typically, designed to last 10, 12 or at most 15 years. Keeping one going past its 40th birthday therefore involves exceeding that design-life three or four times over! It also requires a fair degree of mechanical sympathy and a willingness to constantly keep on
top of minor repairs. These days far fewer people are willing to do this, and London isn’t exactly the most DIY carrepair friendly place on earth. For some at least, the classic car ULEZ-beating dream could quickly turn sour. Finally, there are better and cheaper ways of becoming ULEZ-compliant than by buying a classic – provided you avoid anything with a diesel engine. For petrol cars, the cut-off is Euro IV emissions or better, and anything from 2006-on should be fine. However, Euro IV cars have been available since 2001, and an awful lot of 2001-2005 petrol cars are ULEZ-compliant. What’s more, this includes a lot of cars with interesting performance – including the 210bhp 2003 Saab Aero Turbo mentioned opposite. Yes, these cars are thirstier than comparable diesel models. But then again, so are 40+ year old classics! Finding out what is and is not
Some people affected by ULEZ zones are turning to classics as a way round the new rules. A risk, though, is that not all these people will understand the realities of classic car ownership, leading to non-working vehicles parked up all over the place.
compliant is dead-easy. For London go to https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ check-your-vehicle/, and for ULEZ zones elsewhere in England and Wales go to https://www.gov.uk/clean-airzones. To check for Scottish ULEZ zones go to https://www.lowemissionzones. scot/vehicle-registration-checker
takes orders on behalf of the manufacturer and is paid a fixed fee by said manufacturer for handling, preparation and handover. We’re also seeing the continued emergence of car buying services. It seems that most people prefer the convenience of a sale to firms like webuyanycar.com to the fact that, by their own admission, firms like this don’t pay the best prices. I therefore see a situation emerging where main dealers only take in part-exchange for new cars stuff that they can retail themselves; with no marginflexibility they’ve no reason or need to mess around with stuff that they’ll simply punt out to the trade anyway. Sticking my neck out a bit, I also reckon we’re going to see the demise of at least one big-name retailer in the next 12 months. Who it will be I honestly don’t know, but rationalisation is clearly underway, and rationalisation always has losers as well as winners. Will the rise of car buying services and the switch to agency sales lead to a significant drop-off in the number of main dealer part-exchanges being sold at auction? It’s possible, though we certainly hope not.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME DEALERS DIARY FEBRUARY 2024.indd 55
Car Mechanics 55
February 2024
05/01/2024 13:55
The Toyota GR86 – an absolutely lovely driving experience with cheeky compact looks.
Catch ’em while F you can! We take a look at new cars you can still buy that bring a smile to your face, don’t break the bank and looking to the future, make sense to the DIY savvy motorist who wants nothing more than an internal combustion engine.
Mike Humble tries out the new Toyota GR86 and rumour has it he’s still grinning too.
ront-engined rear-wheel-drive – a driveline chosen and engineered for sheer simplicity is how it’s always been looked upon. Volvo stuck with it for years, Ford built up their market supremacy throughout the ’60s, ’70s and most of the ’80s and Mercedes-Benz still use it on most of their mid-to-large passenger cars to this day. The current landscape of motoring now whizzes by quicker than the view from a train window with its (some say) hysterical obsession with economy and emissions. Today, it’s all about electric and hybrid cars and it probably won’t be long before they bring back the ritual of throwing rotting fruit and vegetables on village greens at drivers of petrol or diesel cars. But you still can go out and buy a car that doesn’t require copious amounts of
refined animal urine – namely AdBlue or to be defibrillated from the mains socket to keep running. You may recall our recent Survival Guide for the Toyota GT86 which has struck a chord with one or two readers. Well, it just so happens that my other motoring-related activities involve road testing various cars and commercials, that found me testing the GT86 replacement – the new GR86 recently. Having driven the original not long after its launch here in the UK back in 2013, I’d rather foolishly not bothered to try the GR model, merely writing it off as a biggerengined replacement – until recently. As before, the car is a joint venture with Subaru and the format of it being a compact and tail happy little bundle of joy remains. Only this time round however, the engine is now a Boxer four Subaru 2.4 developing 230bhp – a significant
Neat looking boot spoiler and snazzy tailpipes – which just so happen to be 86mm wide – spot a theme?
56 Car Mechanics Catch 'em while you can.indd 56
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 01/01/2024 21:23
Catch ‘em while you can!
The Subaru flat-four has been bored out to 2.4 litres to develop 230bhp and makes a glorious noise on full chat. Piston Stroke is 86mm.
increase over the GT86’s 204. Again, as before, there is no fancy force-feeding from a turbocharger or supercharger, just good ’ol fashioned multipoint fuel injection. The biggest improvement to the way it gets down the road is a marked increase in torque – there’s now 250Nm of grunt developed at what seems a peaky 3700rpm. Despite the revvy nature (max power incidentally comes up at a heady 7000rpm), off-the-boil driving is improved to a level where the car is a joy to drive around town almost as much as at speed. The new engine has a wardrobe full of bottom-end pulling power – something the old model lacked somewhat. And the Toyota supplied six-speed gearbox has possibly one of the sweetest selection actions I’ve ever experienced this side of a Mk1 Ford Escort. The skinny tyres from the Prius have given way to some slightly wider rubber but nonetheless, tail happy tail wagging fun is still there in spades. Other grin inducing features include a fabulous induction roar when your Quality greatly improved and virtual dash features ‘G’ meter and lap timer functions. Poor cruise siting though and no sat-nav.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Catch 'em while you can.indd 57
Good size anchors offer amazing stopping prowess with zero fade. Sticky 18in Michelins bring taught handling but a bit of noise in the cabin at speed.
driving slippers turn into hobnail boots – if Brian Blessed gargled petrol instead of mouthwash, THIS would be the noise. The simple and mundane task of accelerating for a motorway slip road brings a soundtrack that has you thinking the rest of the traffic can hear too. The moment you set the cruise there’s a decent level of hush but the rear tyre roar at speed is always there, especially on concrete surface road tops. Interior ergonomics are pretty good and there’s a marked improvement in the quality over the GT model. Sadly though, the lovely retro-looking rocker switches you’d tend to find in a ’60s Alvis are no more, replaced by a bank of push-on push-off buttons. The only thing I could point a stick at inside is Toyota’s use of a poorly-sited cruise control stalk that lacks night-time illumination. It’s awkward and takes a while to fathom without taking your eyes off the road. Despite the compact dimensions, the front elbow, leg and headroom are pretty good, but unless your rear seat
passengers are Douglas Bader or Warwick Davies, the rear seat is best used for supermarket shopping or somewhere to throw your coat such is the lack of legroom. Boot space is ample for a weekend adventure and up front you’ll find an ample amount of hideyholes for cups, loose change and other small goods and chattels. I particularly like the new dashboard with virtual and digital gauges, you can even change the appearance of the fonts, select a digital ‘G force’ feature and even time your own laps just in case you fancy a trip to the Nürburgring rather than visit your Aunt in Kettering. A track mode button turns up the smiles even further by altering the throttle mapping, backing off some of the power steering assistance to give a bit more feel at the rim and giving the instruments a menacing reddish hue. What else? Well, there’s excellent fadefree brakes and an old-school ratchet handbrake. It really is a car for all moods. Some might say the GR86 is a little frantic and urgent for some. Yes, it’s true that it really wants to get a move on and can be a little bit jerky in heavy traffic, but once mastered, I found little to complain about overall. From a workshop bay point of view, it looks like the bulk of its servicing items seem straightforward to access when it comes to DIY fettling. Changing the plugs seems like a task requiring it be done under the car as opposed to under the bonnet as the motor is mounted really low in the engine bay in order to keep the centre of gravity at lowest. Toyota claims a 0-60 time around six seconds and will take £32,495 for the privilege, but for the fun, the handling and sheer joy it’s one to buy now while you can. Cars like this new are disappearing fast!
Car Mechanics 57
February 2024
01/01/2024 21:23
Service Bay Overall difficulty rating
THANKS TO
2021 MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI
AES York Ltd 01904 780149 autoelectricsyork.co.uk
3-cylinder W SUV AES near York recently had a 999cc 3-cylinder turbocharged petrolpowered MG ZS in their workshop for a full service. Rob Hawkins volunteered to help.
e admittedly had reservations about servicing the Chinese-manufactured SUV-styled ZS from MG Motor UK. Why? Well at the time of writing, Autodata had no technical information on it, so whilst we could find out what oils to use from various suppliers, we initially had no information on the torque settings for the sump drain plug, for example, and no idea about the recommended minimum thickness of the brake discs. Furthermore, the major motor factors didn’t stock or had a very limited stock of serviceable items for a vehicle that first appeared in 2017. Luckily, dealerships for MG Motor UK do stock
Underbonnet layout AIR FILTER HOUSING
COOLANT RESERVOIR
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR
ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK ENGINE OIL FILLER CAP
SCREENWASH
FUSEBOX
parts, but they are typically more expensive than expected – a sump drain plug and new spin-on oil filter costs a little over thirty quid, which isn’t too bad for genuine parts, but if a rear axle beam bush needs replacing, we discovered the only solution is to fit a new axle beam, which costs £461. Despite our initial reservations over the technical information (the press office for MG Motor UK came to the rescue), the ZS is a very straightforward vehicle to work on with space to access everything. We could even inspect the fuel filler hoses and pipes without having to remove any covers. And the cabin filter is one of the best designs we’ve seen, making it simple to change.
Rob says The service indicator can be reset using diagnostic equipment or via the arrowed buttons on the steering wheel (the ones with a centre button labelled OK). To reset the service indicator using these steering wheel buttons, first switch on the ignition, but do not run the engine. Repeatedly press the left or right arrow until the gear symbol is highlighted on the dashboard. Next, press the OK button to confirm this selection. Scroll up or down using the relevant buttons until the service information is displayed on the dashboard, then press OK. Finally, hold down the OK button until a new service interval is displayed, then release the button and switch off the ignition.
Restore the original performance and efficiency of the engine with Injection Cleaner 58 Car Mechanics
February 2024
SERVICE BAY MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI.indd 58
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 09/01/2024 23:20
Service Bay 2021 MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI UNDERBONNET CHECKS
1 TOP-UP SCREENWASH
2 CHECK COOLANT LEVEL
3 CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL
Lift a blue-coloured flap in the offside front corner of the engine bay and top-up the screenwash. The filler neck is quite long, and we discovered ours was leaking through its seals. Operate the windscreen wipers to check the spray pattern on the glass and headlights.
Shining a torch on the header/expansion tank can help to check the level of the coolant inside, but if it’s difficult to see, providing the engine is cold, release the pressure cap to look inside. Test the freezing and cooling capacity with an antifreeze hydrometer.
Shine a torch on the side of the brake fluid reservoir in the offside rear corner of the engine bay to ensure the level is up to the marker on the side. If you can’t see the level, wipe around the cap before unscrewing it and looking inside.
4 TEST BATTERY
5 INSPECT FUSES & RELAYS
The 12V vehicle battery is in the nearside of the engine bay. Make sure its terminals are clean and secure – apply petroleum jelly to them to help prevent corrosion. Check the battery is also securely fitted. Measure its voltage with a multimeter or battery tester.
There’s a fuse and relay box in the offside of the engine bay. Release the plastic lid to see inside. Look for water ingress, corrosion and blown fuses. There’s a diagram on the underside of the lid to help identify the fuses and a plastic tool to extract and fit them.
SPARK PLUGS
6 SQUEEZE HOSES Look for the coolant hoses inside the engine bay and if the engine is cold, squeeze them to check for perishing and leaks. Look over their connections to spot any pink residue, which may indicate a leak.
AIR FILTER
7 REMOVE ENGINE COVER
8 REPLACE SPARK PLUGS
The spark plugs should be replaced every 24 months or 30,000 miles. First, remove the upper engine cover, which is secured with a single 8mm bolt and sits on locating lugs – prise it up and off after undoing the bolt. Remove the soundproofing material between the cover and top of the engine.
There are three spark plugs to replace. Undo the 10mm bolts that secure each coil pack to the top of each spark plug. Carefully prise the coil pack off, then use a spark plug socket to undo and replace each spark plug, tightening them to 22-28Nm. Refit the coil packs and engine cover.
9 UNDO LID The air filter should be replaced every 24 months or 30,000 miles. It’s contained inside a black plastic housing in the offside of the engine bay. First, undo six crosshead screws that secure the lid of the housing. The screws won’t fall out of the lid, so fully undo them.
Which oil is the right one? Check out the online oil guide at www.liqui-moly.com shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SERVICE BAY MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI.indd 59
Car Mechanics 59
February 2024
09/01/2024 23:20
Service Bay 2021 MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI AIR FILTER CONTINUED
CABIN FILTER
10 REPLACE FILTER The lid of the air filter housing can only be lifted up a little, but it should be enough to be able to extract the old air filter. Clean inside the housing before fitting a new one. Make sure the rubber edges of the new air filter sit inside the housing to avoid being trapped by the lid. Refit the lid and its securing screws.
11 FIND THE CABIN FILTER Open the glovebox and use a flat-blade screwdriver to turn the two large plastic fastenings/stops clockwise. Extract both of them to allow the glovebox to drop further down and provide access to the cabin filter behind.
OIL & FILTER
12 REMOVE ACCESS PANEL With the glovebox lowered, look for an oblongshaped black piece of plastic, which is a cover or access panel for the cabin filter. Feel around the sides of it for a plastic release clip. Carefully pull one of the clips out a little to release the cover and see the edge of the cabin filter.
TOP TIP Release the oil filler cap and dipstick to increase airflow when draining the oil.
13 REPLACE CABIN FILTER The old cabin filter should have a flap on its exposed edge to grip and help pull it out. Make a note of the airflow arrows on the side, which should be pointing down. Clean inside the housing, check the new cabin filter is the same shape and size as the old one, then fit it. Refit the cover and reassemble the glovebox.
14 DRAIN ENGINE OIL Run the engine for a few minutes to help warm up the oil, which will help with draining it. Switch off and, with a drain tray or container positioned below the sump, undo the Torx T40 drain plug. Leave the oil to drain for several minutes.
17 FIT NEW OIL FILTER 15 UNDO OIL FILTER
16 LEAVE TO DRAIN
Whilst the engine oil is draining, use an oil filter strap to undo the spin-on oil filter close to the drain plug. Space is a little tight but providing you can squeeze your arm around the surrounding undertray, there’s more space to slacken the filter.
The old oil filter will be full of oil, so after unscrewing it a few turns, oil will start to seep out. Have a drain tray underneath and leave it to drip out for a few minutes instead of getting your hands covered (wear gloves). Once it has finished dripping, remove and discard it.
Check the new oil filter is the same size as the old one. Our genuine filter had instructions printed on the side that recommended cleaning the mating surface on the engine and to NOT add fresh oil to the filter’s gasket (rubber seal). It also recommended 4-5 turns once the filter was fitted and its seal had made contact, or to tighten it to 30Nm.
Sticky manual transmission? Gear Oil Additive can help 60 Car Mechanics
February 2024
SERVICE BAY MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI.indd 60
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 09/01/2024 23:20
Service Bay 2021 MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI
18 REPLACE DRAIN PLUG It’s worthwhile fitting a new drain plug, which should be supplied with a new rubber washer. Tighten the drain plug to 21-29Nm.
19 REFILL ENGINE OIL
20 CHECK DIPSTICK
Measure 4.1 litres of 0W-20 fully-synthetic engine oil into a clean jug (check with your supplier for the correct type of oil), then pour the correct amount into the engine. Release the dipstick to help with airflow. Use a funnel to avoid spilling the oil over the top of the engine.
Extract and clean the engine oil dipstick, then reinsert and remove it to check the oil level, topping-up if required. Run the engine and check any low-level or low-pressure warning lights don’t remain displayed. Switch off, check for leaks and recheck the level on the dipstick.
BRAKE & SUSPENSION CHECKS
21 WIGGLE ROAD WHEELS
22 INSPECT FRONT COIL SPRING
23 CHECK REAR COIL SPRINGS
Raise a corner of the vehicle and support with an axle stand or raise the entire vehicle on a ramp to check the suspension, steering and wheel bearings. Wiggle each raised road wheel from top-to-bottom and side-to-side to identify any excessive play. Spin the rear wheels to listen for wheel bearing noise.
The condition of the front suspension springs can be checked by looking at them over the tops of the tyres (there’s more room when a front corner has been raised and supported). Look for corrosion in the springs and fractures. Do not touch the springs in case you trap your fingers.
The rear coil springs can be visually inspected from underneath the back of the vehicle. These are fitted separately to the telescopic dampers. Just like the front coil springs, look for corrosion and fractures, but don’t touch them. Brush or blow out any dirt from around the base of each spring.
26 MEASURE REAR DISCS 24 LEVER DAMPER MOUNT
25 LUBE HANDBRAKE
Use a pry bar to check the lower mounting bush for each rear telescopic damper. Excessive play in this bush could result in a knocking noise when driving. Inspect the body of each damper for misting, which could indicate a leak.
There’s a mechanical handbrake on the MG ZS we’re servicing, so spray grease over the end of the cables at each rear brake caliper and the ratchet mechanism on each caliper. This will help to reduce the risk of the mechanism seizing.
There’s a gap in each rear disc guard to be able to inspect the back of each brake disc and measure its thickness with Vernier calipers or digital Verniers. The minimum recommended thickness is 7mm. The thickness of the brake pads isn’t so easy to check, so will require the road wheels to be removed.
Extra wear protection for the engine with Cera Tec shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SERVICE BAY MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI.indd 61
Car Mechanics 61
February 2024
09/01/2024 23:21
Service Bay 2021 MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI BRAKE & SUSPENSION CHECKS CONTINUED
27 CHECK TRAILING ARM BUSHES
28 CHECK FRONT LOWER ARMS
29 SHAKE FRONT DROPLINKS
With a beam axle at the rear, check the frontmost mounting bushes, which form part of a trailing arm arrangement. Look for perishing of the large bush, which could result in handling issues. Replacement bushes were not available at the time of writing, only a new beam axle at £461.
There’s a lower suspension arm at each front wheel, so check the inner mounting bushes by levering against them with a pry bar and also check the outer balljoint. The bushes and balljoint cannot be replaced individually, so if there’s excessive play in any of them, a new genuine suspension arm costs £134.
The front anti-roll bar is attached to each suspension strut via a droplink. Use a pry bar to check for movement in the ARB’s mounting bushes and shake the droplinks to check for excessive movement. Any movement could result in a rattle when driving. A genuine front droplink costs nearly £50 each.
30 SQUEEZE TRE BOOTS Squeeze the rubber dust covers for the balljoints on the ends of the steering track rod ends (TREs). Look for cracks in the rubber, which could allow water and dirt to get inside, leading to premature wear.
31 SQUEEZE DRIVESHAFT BOOTS Squeeze the corrugated rubber gaiters around the outer ends of each driveshaft to look for cracks, which could let dirt and water in, resulting in premature wear.
32 CHECK FRONT DISCS There’s enough room to be able to inspect the condition of the front discs through the spokes of the wheels and to also use digital Verniers or Vernier calipers to measure their thickness. The minimum recommended thickness is 20mm.
OTHER CHECKS
33 MEASURE BRAKE PADS There’s also enough room to manoeuvre a brake pad thickness gauge into position to measure the thickness of the friction material on the pads. We recommend at least 2mm to comply with the MOT test’s minimum of 1.5mm.
34 CHECK EXHAUST Inspect all the mounting points along the exhaust system to look for excessive corrosion and broken fixings. Make sure any rubber hangers are intact. If it’s safe to run the engine and stand underneath the vehicle, listen for leaks from the exhaust system.
Upgrade your oil change with Engine Flush Plus
62 Car Mechanics
February 2024
SERVICE BAY MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI.indd 62
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 09/01/2024 23:21
SERVICE SCHEDULE EVERY 15,000 MILES or 12 MONTHS
36 CHECK GEARBOX OIL LEVEL 35 LEVER GEARBOX MOUNT Use a pry bar to check for excessive movement in the lower gearbox mount shown here. Visually inspect the condition of the rubber bushes to look for perishing.
On the nearside of the manual gearbox, there’s a drain plug with a filler/inspection plug above it. Both can be undone using the square end of a 3/8in ratchet. Check the oil level is just below the filler/inspection hole. Top-up with Castrol BOT 503 and tighten the plugs to 20-30Nm.
Change engine oil & oil filter Check coolant level & test concentration Check tyre condition, pressure & tread Top-up screenwash fluid Check battery Check wiper blades & washer jets Check all underbonnet components & hoses for fluid leaks Inspect brakes Check steering & suspension components Check auxiliary drive belt Inspect exhaust system & mountings Check operation of all electrical systems Lubricate all locks & hinges Check brake fluid for moisture content
EVERY 24 MONTHS Change brake fluid
EVERY 30,000 MILES or 24 MONTHS Renew air filter Renew cabin filter Renew spark plugs
EVERY 60,000 MILES or 48 MONTHS Renew coolant
EVERY 90,000 MILES or 72 MONTHS Renew auxiliary drive belt
Don’t forget to also CHECK ALL EXTERIOR LIGHTING
including the side repeaters in the door mirrors.
CONNECT A FAULT CODE READER
37 INSPECT FUEL TANK HOSES The hoses and pipes from the fuel filler neck to the tank are all visible from underneath the rear of the vehicle. Check their condition, looking for perishing of the rubber, broken fastenings and corrosion.
39 INSPECT TYRES Check the tread of the tyres is sufficient and evenly worn. Inspect the sidewalls for damage. Spin a raised road wheel to look for buckling of the wheel around the inner and outer rims.
to look for logged diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
38 CHECK WIPER BLADES
CONNECT THE AIRCONDITIONING
Inspect the condition of all wiper blades (front and rear), looking for splits in the rubber and damage. Replace any that drag across the glass or do not clear it effectively.
TIGHTEN THE ROAD WHEEL BOLTS
40 LUBE LOCKS Spray grease over the bonnet-locking mechanism to reduce the risk of it seizing. Spray more grease over the tailgate and door locks along with their hinges to help keep them moving freely.
for a regas to check the pressure and lube the seals. to 120-130Nm.
41 INSPECT FILLER CAP SEAL Release the fuel filler flap (there’s an electronic button on the driver’s side of the dashboard) and unscrew the cap to check the condition of the rubber seal on the inside of it. If it’s perished or damaged, it could result in petrol fumes escaping.
Oil droplets under the car? Motor Oil Saver regenerates brittle seals shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SERVICE BAY MG ZS 1.0 T-GDI.indd 63
Car Mechanics 63
February 2024
09/01/2024 23:21
Help!
Your non-diagnostic vehicle-related problems solved by Steve Rothwell GENERAL
GENERAL
Diagnostic scanner
Q
Are there any reasonably-priced scanners out there that can show up ABS sensors? One that would cover most vehicles would be good. Stuart Anderson
A
Unlike the EOBD systems, the ABS systems on vehicles can use different systems according to the manufactures discretion and so the scanner needed to cover a range of vehicles does have to be loaded with a better software library. This does of course increase the cost. But it is often worth paying for the scanner as it will over the years certainly pay for itself. The Launch CRP123 Premium at £180 would cover the ABS applications on most vehicles. As would the Foxwell NT680 Lite 4 Systems Scan Tool which is around £199. Either of these should carry out the functions you require.
Torque wrenches
Q
My question is around my torque wrenches. I have a few: Norbar TTi200 40-200Nm ½in-drive 30-150lbf-ft. TTi250 50-250Nm ½in-drive 40-185lbf-ft. Halfords 8-60Nm 3/8in-drive 6-44lbf-ft. 40-200Nm ½in-drive 30-150lbf-ft 60-330Nm ½in-drive 45-243lbf-ft. Teng 140-700Nm ¾in-drive. Also, I have just bought a Sealey ½indrive digital wrench to try out a digital rather than the click-stop drive. The question is that given I use them infrequently (once or twice a year maybe) and always wind them back on the spring should they be recalibrated? The reason I ask is that I’ve investigated getting them recalibrated locally and it’s £40 (plus VAT) which is probably quite reasonable but obviously tots up to a fair amount for all. Your opinion would be greatly received. Arnold Holmes
A
JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
Engine rebuild
Q
I was recently driving my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD uphill when there was a dramatic loud bang from the engine and smoke billowing out the exhaust. The engine kept on running despite turning the ignition off. My Jeep was recovered and the garage believe the turbo collapsed and was ingested into the engine causing terminal damage. As the vehicle is in very good condition I wanted a good reliable replacement unit or a competent firm to rebuild the engine. To my surprise salvaged engines are in short supply and no local garages are prepared to undertake the work. Other than scrapping an excellent vehicle I have no other option I feel. Are you aware of a competent company that repairs Jeep engines or any other options I may have? Grateful for any help. Roger Hughes 64 Car Mechanics Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 64
February 2024
I have been asked a few times lately about engine re-manufacturing and this is something which has almost disappeared, but it may be the case that as vehicle life does seem to be extended, may again be something that will be financially viable. There are companies which advertise that they will fit a replacement engine, but unfortunately I have heard too many horror stories of owners being left without the vehicle for months, or the price suddenly increasing when the engine has been removed and the vehicle immobile. Unfortunately, I have not had a report of any company who are worthy of a recommendation. VEGE https://www.vege.info/ and Ivor Searle https://ivorsearle.co.uk/Contact
A
The official recommendation is every 12 months or 5000 cycles, whichever occurs first. You should also get the torque wrench recalibrated if it has been overloaded. This can occur if using it to tighten a fixing at above the top-rated torque of the wrench. For example, if you used a torque wrench to tighten up a fixing that was above the calibrated value, in order to use the torque wrench as a bar – this is of course not advisable, but I do know it has been done when a suitable bar is not available. As you already do, the torque wrench should always be slackened off after use to relax the tension. As you have several wrenches it's possible to check the accuracy to some extent, by tightening a fixing to 45-50Nm, and then checking this using another of your wrenches. By using each of your torque wrenches to tighten a bolt to this level, and then using the next torque wrench to confirm that the wrench clicks, and the bolt does not turn, if the bolt does move, then this would be an indication that the previous torque wrench was under performing. Whilst this is not a substitute for calibrating the torque wrench, it does give a good indication of the accuracy of the tool. are both engine remanufacturers who would supply a good unit with a guarantee and it would be worth contacting them possibly via a local factor to obtain the price and availability of such a unit. If they do not have one in stock they do often carry-out an own unit repair which would be of a high-quality. Having fitted numerous units from both companies over many years I would certainly be happy to recommend either of them. The fitting of such an engine is I am sure something many independent garages would be happy to undertake. Although your engine has suffered quite intensive damage with the ingestion of the turbo components I would still expect the block to be in a serviceable condition.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 02/01/2024 12:35
Help! JEEP RENEGADE
Window problem
Q
I have a 2016 Jeep Renegade 1.4 – this has recently developed a fault with the passenger side power window. The window is capable of winding down, but will not come back up. The down signal works as expected with the one-touch control from either the driver’s side control panel or the passenger side control panel. I know the motor is working OK as I managed to get the window back up by removing the control module from the motor drive and connecting a 12V source to the exposed motor terminals. The motor functions correctly when 12V polarity is swapped, driving the window both up and down. Therefore, I assumed the control module controlling the motor drive has failed, possibly the internal relay as I could not hear this toggling when the UP signal was given. However, after a quick check, both coils on the internal relay of the module were OK showing around 154ohms. So possible the electronics controlling the internal relay? I managed to source a working used motor and control module from eBay (part no. C37722-103). I fitted the module only to my existing motor drive and now the passenger window operates correctly up/down from the passenger side control panel. However, the action is now reversed, ie. the UP signal moves the window down, and the DOWN signal moves the window up. The one-touch function also operates correctly, but again with the switch operating in the reverse way. But now the passenger window will not operate at all from the driver’s side panel, either up or down, with the switch toggled in either position. So changing the module has allowed the passenger window to at least be open and closed. But the switch logic is reversed and the driver’s side control is now not operable at all. I managed to find some schematics for the window controller and the system is very complex for the simple function that it is doing. The system involves several control modules to realise the power window function. There appears to be some form of communication signal between the several modules involved in the system, given this I am now unsure if the replacement module I fitted needs to be programmed or coded to work with the existing system. However, this seems strange given the passenger side control is now part functional. Is there any simple diagnostic tool which can be plugged into this system to pick up error codes, etc. Changing out all of the modules and switch controls could be an expensive fix. The other three power windows in the system all function correctly from their control panel and the driver’s side control panel. The problem has only affected the passenger window. Any additional guidance would be appreciated? Jon Simpson
A
The system is as you have mentioned very complex, as seems to be the case with most modern electrical systems. The driver window switch pack when operated will instruct the body control module that the window needs to be moved up or down. The body control module should then carry out the instruction feeding the motor in the necessary manor to operate the window. If the passenger switch is operated, this then has to first seek permission from the drivers switch pack which will then give the instruction to the body control module. The MaxiECU system for Jeep diagnosis. In short, most problems that occur with the window operation, if they are not direct wiring faults, such as a broken loom between the door and the body, are often due to a driver's switch pack fault. The complexity of the systems does make simple testing with a voltmeter difficult, as the circuits are not clearly defined. The package that should allow you to fully test the system as well as perform many more functions is the MaxiECU for Jeep cars – USB at £129 available here https://bit.ly/CMaVJRd This does need a laptop running windows software, but the functionality of the programme will certainly cover all your requirements. The full list of which can be seen at this webpage https://bit.ly/CMXtJPl Using this program you will be able to ascertain if the window switching operation is being fulfilled by the switch pack, and this will make the diagnosis of the problem much easier. Having the software for any future issues will also be a great advantage.
JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
Immobiliser light on
Q
I have a strange problem with my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2.7 CRD. The car starts and drives normally, but the immobiliser light near the radio continues to flash. When this happens, neither the wipers nor the radio works. Also, the lights on the overhead console that indicate the outside temperature, the ones on the radio that show the time and the ones below the radio which show the interior temperature remain blank. The other lights and the indicators work as normal. When this problem first started, if the Jeep was driven more than 20 miles there would be a ping, the immobiliser light went out and everything worked again. After stopping and restarting, the problem was there again. When my local garage shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 65
used their code reader on the Jeep, there were no error codes. Kathy Atherton
A
The fact that your immobiliser light continues to flash but the vehicle will start and drive is quite an anomaly. As the systems normally restore after a 20-mile drive, I would check that the battery and charging system are operating correctly and that the battery is holding a good charge. One of the common problems associated with the Grand Cherokee is the ignition switch. This normally prevents the vehicle from starting or, if it does start, the immobiliser light should be extinguished. Another symptom of a poor ignition switch is that some circuits, such as the wipers, may not connect. I would check the ignition switch before moving on to other measures – if it is failing you may be able to detect a burning smell from the switch. This is
something I would have expected the garage to check, though. The other two components that may be at fault are the body control module (sometimes called the front control module) and the sentry key immobiliser module. The front or body control module communicates with the integrated power module which connects to the battery. It controls power to a host of systems via the CAN network, including the wipers. The SKIM module is the immobiliser unit, although when this fails it normally prevents the vehicle from starting. Before condemning either of the units, I would clean the connecting plugs using an electrical cleaner spray, checking for any signs of corrosion on the terminals. Failing that, ecutesting.com may be able to test the body control module, which is located at the left front corner of the engine bay. The SKIM module is rather more complex and is a one-time fit and code unit.
Car Mechanics 65
February 2024
02/01/2024 12:35
Help!
VOLVO D2
Brake pad replacement
Q
I have a 14-reg Volvo D2 with the V40 1.6 D2 engine type and 42,000 miles. As time goes on I will need new brake pads on all four wheels, but do I require a piston rewind tool for this or can it be done with a G-clamp? Also, how do I reset the service indicator light after I perform the next service? WJ Gatt
A
The front caliper pistons can be pushed back gently using a G-clamp, but the rear pistons will need to be wound in using a rewind tool – these are available for around £30. If your vehicle is fitted with diagnostics for oil level/quality, then the service light can only be reset using diagnostic equipment. The Foxwell NT414 Pro All Makes 4-System Scan Tool at £199 from Gendan (01792 9290200) should cover this function. If this system is not fitted, then the service can be reset as follows: Insert the remote into the ignition slot and, without pressing any pedal, push the start/stop button once to put the ignition to position 1. Press and hold the button on the end of the left-hand stalk and hold the start/stop button for approximately two seconds to switch on the ignition. Wait for 10 seconds. When the information light on the dash starts to flash, release the button on the end of the stalk. There should be an audible signal to confirm the reset.
VOLVO V50
Clutch travel
Q
Can you please advise on a possible clutch problem with a 2009 model year Volvo V50 (VIN204292457051), B4163S engine and IB5 gearbox? I have had this car for just under three years and changed the clutch using a Valeo 826935 2-part kit and slave cylinder Valeo 810117. This was because of a noisy release bearing and the impression that the friction plate was near the end of its life, because the clutch only engaged fully when the pedal was near the upper end of its travel. There was no apparent slipping of the clutch. Mileage then was 96,500. A new crankshaft and gearbox spigot shaft seals were fitted. When I examined the old clutch (Ford 161878077401) I was surprised to find that there still seemed to be a reasonable depth 66 Car Mechanics Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 66
February 2024
of friction material, at least 1mm depth above the rivets at the shallowest. There was no sign of overheating on the friction material, the flywheel or the pressure plate and the friction plate shock absorbing springs are in good condition. There is a record of main dealer servicing up to 86,000 miles, but no information about any previous clutch replacement. Once the new clutch was fitted the clutch take-up point was around mid-travel of the pedal and quite smooth. Since then, over around 1000 miles, the take-up point has gradually become higher until it is now near the top end of the pedal travel again, but there is no sign of any slipping. The only other significant component in the clutch system is the slave cylinder which I would not have expected to affect the system in this way. There does not appear to be any loss of clutch/brake fluid. Can you say please if this is normal for this clutch for which there seems to be no provision for manual adjustment? Peter M Munro
A
Having replaced the clutch cover and plate, along with the concentric slave cylinder and release bearing assembly, I would not expect the travel of the pedal or the biting point to have reverted back so quickly to the position which led you to replace the original clutch so quickly. One of the problems that may have caused this would be a worn flywheel, but I’m sure that this would have been apparent at the time the clutch was replaced. The fact that the original release bearing had become noisy may be an indication that it was being held in contact with too greater force when the clutch was not being operated. This may indicate that the master cylinder is at fault, and as the master cylinder is not an expensive item, I would be inclined to replace this to ensure that this is not the cause of the premature failure. If the master cylinder is not fully releasing the pressure it will effectively pump up the system keeping the release bearing in contact and setting the biting point of the clutch to a too higher level as you now have.
VOLVO V70
Low oil pressure
Q
Could you please help me with a problem I have with my 2001 Volvo V70 2.4 engine? The problem is the low oil pressure light comes on when the engine gets to operating temperature. I have renewed the oil sensor and the water coolant sensor and have also changed to a thicker oil. I have also flushed the radiator. Thank you for any help you can give. Terry Burrell
A
Having already changed the sensor and I am presuming when the oil was changed so was the filter, then it may be the case that the oil light is showing because the oil pressure is reduced. The first check would be to see if this was the case by using an external oil pressure gauge on the engine. This will then determine if the problem is an electrical fault or if the engine does have an oil pressure problem. The oil pressure on your Volvo should be 3.5 Bar at 4000rpm. If the oil pressure is reduced then the first move may be to remove the sump and check the condition of the oil-pickup – it is very often the case that sludge and oil deposits can accumulate on the pick-up strainer, reducing the flow of oil and so also reducing the available pressure in the engine. If no problems are found at this stage, it would need to be considered that perhaps more serious wear is evident in the engine or the oil pump was not performing correctly.
VOLVO V40
Rough ride
Q
I have a 2016 Volvo V40 CrossCountry diesel. I am very pleased with this motor and is the first Volvo I have ever had, but the ride is on the firm side. I have done some 35,000 miles in it, but it is still harsh on country roads – is it possible to get a softer ride? Any ideas please, if it means swapping suspension legs and shockers, what sort of cost would this involve? T M Parr
A
You have the Cross-Country version of the V40 and this with its slightly higher road height was built with a firmer chassis configuration than the standard V40. The manufactures do design the vehicle to be stable on the road and part of that design does mean that the suspension will be firm – this is needed with the added height to prevent body roll. Although there are plenty of options to stiffen-up the suspension on many vehicles, there are no conversions that can soften the suspension. This is mainly because to do so would compromise the road handling of the vehicle. There are various options of wheel and tyre configuration on your vehicle and according to the data I have your Volvo should be fitted with 16in wheels running on 205x55x16 tyres. If this is not the case and you have the 18in wheels you may find moving to the higher profile 16in or even 15in wheels will give a slightly softer drive. The replacement wheels and tyres would though cost around £1000 for the vehicle and may only make a marginal difference. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 02/01/2024 12:35
Help! VOLVO 240
Low rear end
Q
I own a 1989 Volvo 240 GLT which has covered 77,000 miles and now has become very low at the rear end. Could you please advise me what heavy-duty springs I require to get it higher at the rear? I don’t really want to purchase the standard coil springs because when I purchased the Volvo with 6000 miles on the clock it always looked on the low side. If you can advise me could you give me the technical specifications for the coil springs and where I may purchase them from? Would the estate version solve the problem? D Kentish
A
There are a number of springs listed for your Volvo and the three Volvo part numbers are 1206750, 271476, 1212231. Unfortunately, due to the age of your Volvo the technical details are difficult to obtain and I have needed to cross reference to obtain the details. From this the estate version of the spring does appear to be sufficiently different to not be viable. The specifications I have arrived at are a spring with a length of 430mm and a diameter of 130mm using a wire diameter of 13mm. The KYB part number is KYB RF5139, but there does only appear to be original specification springs available. The Lesjöfors Coil Spring part number is 4295819. Lesjöfors are a highly reputable spring manufacturer and do have a UKbased technical support contact – John Graham, who can be contacted on 01422 370770 or by post to: Lesjöfors Springs (UK) Ltd, Spring Moor, Lindley Moor Road, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire HD3 3TD. I am sure they will be able to fully advise on the best replacement unit to fit, which must take into consideration not only ride height but also the comfort of the ride.
VOLVO S90
Rear brakes
Q
The Volvo dealer told me that the rear brake pads on my 2017 Volvo S90 2.0 D4 auto need replacing (at 28k miles). This is something that I’m able to do but need a bit of advice please. I know that the rear calipers incorporate a handbrake electric motor to apply the pads. I understand that the piston can’t be manually wound back, there are two options. 1) Remove the electric motor and then wind-back the piston manually via the pin that engages with the motor. Will this need a new gasket and new Torx screws? 2) Leave the motor in place but apply 9V (or 12V) to the two pins which would make shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 67
VOLVO C70
Roof and boot issues
Q
I wonder if you could help regarding my 2008 Volvo C70 2.4 D5. I am a competent mechanic but the problem I have is electrical, which I am not too good at. I have owned the Volvo for just over two years and have no problems with the roof but in the boot is a yellow loading assistance switch. When the roof is open and folded inside the boot, you can press this switch and it raises the roof up about four inches so you can put small items in, you then press the switch and the roof drops back down. The switch has never worked since I have had the car (it is illuminated all the time like it should be) so I thought I would remove the trim that the switch is mounted in and check for any faulty wiring. I reconnected it and went to open the roof only to get a red triangle and the message ROOF FAILURE on the display. I disconnected and reconnected the battery and everything works fine. I bought another switch from a Volvo breaker and connected it and got the same problem. I have unplugged the switch for the time being. Could you offer any advice on what to check before I take it to an auto electrician. The pages relating to the fuses in the owner’s manual does not mention this switch. Thank you. Bryan East
A
The switch does as you say raise the roof sightly when folded and is for loading assistance. One press on the button should start and stop the raising or lowering process. It does also mention in the Volvo manual that it may take several seconds before the movement starts. If there is a problem with the system and the roof does not move, then a signal will sound indicating an issue, and a message will be displayed on the dash to indicate the problem. As you do have the warning triangle indicating that a problem is present, this does confirm that the switch itself is operating. The switch operation is controlled within the roof system and the most likely scenario is that one of the 14 sensors used in the operation of the roof, is not operating correctly. The sensor fitted near the rear hinge located at the nearside rear of the roof mechanism would possibly be the one that is causing the issue. Using diagnostic equipment with the suitable Volvo software should conform this, but as a first check it may be worth checking the security of the sensors, and ensuring that poor positioning or an unsecure sensor is not the cause of the issue. The sensors are all secured using screws, and it may be the case that a loose screw is the source of the issue. The basic method of accessing all the sensors is to open the roof to the midway point to expose the operating frame and sensor, then to disconnect the battery. After the checks are complete, the roof should be closed, then opened fully and then closed again. the motor wind the piston fully back. Which would you recommend? The S90 is reasonably rare in the UK which is why I am getting different advice, but I understand the running gear is based on the more popular XC90. David Carabine
A
The correct method of replacing the rear brake pads as advised by Autodata is as follows: Activate service mode, this can only be activated using diagnostic equipment. Draw off sufficient brake fluid from brake fluid reservoir to enable rear brake caliper pistons to be reset. Remove rear wheels, remove brake caliper retaining clip. Detach rear brake caliper from caliper carrier. Move brake caliper aside and support with wire.
Remove rear brake pads. Press rear brake caliper piston fully in. Tool No. 999 5782. Fit brake pads. Fit rear brake caliper to caliper carrier. Tightening torque: 28Nm. Fit brake caliper retaining clip. Fit rear wheels. Top up brake fluid. Deactivate service mode this can only be deactivated using diagnostic equipment. If you do not have the necessary equipment to deactivate and reactivate the service mode, then your first method would be the best to use and no new gaskets or Torx screws will be required. If using this method after the pads have been fitted the footbrake should be pumped until the pads are set in position, then the handbrake should be applied on and off three times. This should then correctly reposition the motor.
Car Mechanics 67
February 2024
02/01/2024 12:35
Help!
CITROËN DS3
Torque settings
Q
Can you please tell me the torque wrench settings required for changing a front spring on a 61-plate Citroën DS3 1.6 HDI? Thanks in advance. Craig Christie
A
The tightening torques I have from Citroën are as follows: Anti-roll bar link arms 43Nm, centre hub nut 245Nm if 72mm and 325Nm if 82mm, lower balljoint to hub carrier 40Nm, strut to hub fixing 55Nm, top nut on suspension leg 75Nm, track rod end 35Nm, brake disc to hub 10Nm, brake caliper to carrier 30Nm, brake caliper to carrier 105Nm, road wheels 100Nm. This should cover all you need to remove and refit in the spring replacement.
CITROËN AX
Oil seal
Q
I have a 1989 Citroën AX 1.0 which is going well but I have noticed a slight leak from the offside driveshaft oil seal. This is pretty annoying because I changed the seals when I fitted the driveshafts a couple of months ago, and I used Corteco seals which I understand are good quality. I also cleaned the surface of the shaft where the seal runs. I wondered, before I do the job again if there is anything I have missed? It has been suggested that I could use grease on the seal when I fit it. I did lubricate the seal with gearbox oil when I fitted it last. James Robbins
A
Unfortunately, it is not unique to have a new oil seal leak. Although technically everything seems to go well it can only take a slight distortion on the seal as it is fitted, or the shaft can catch on the new seal and cause a tiny tear. The key points are that everything is perfectly clean and the new seal is put in place as evenly as possible. The oil you used on the seal face when fitting it should have been sufficient for the shaft to have been able to slide into place without causing any damage to the seal. Some people do like to use grease which will also give the seal a little extra protection in the first few revolutions of the shaft. You should also check that the internal spring is correctly in place. I have known this spring to have been knocked out or stretched during installation which can cause the new seal to leak. 68 Car Mechanics Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 68
February 2024
You should also ensure that the new seal is fitted to the correct depth. If the seal is in too far or not far enough it may be running on a rough area of the shaft, which has not been machined to accept the seal face. You should also ensure that the gearbox breather is not blocked – if the breather is blocked then the internal pressure of the gearbox will build-up and however well the seal has been fitted the oil under pressure may still find its way through.
CITROËN BERLINGO
Rear lights
Q
The rear side lights on my 2011 Citroën Berlingo van 1.6 HDi 75 are doing some strange things. The left-hand side flashes constantly until I either, open the driver’s door or turn on the interior light in the cabin. The rear right side light randomly comes on when the van is locked up. Popping my voltmeter on the live wire for either of the bulbs when playing up results in a reading of around 8V. With my limited knowledge I checked around the BSI and surrounding area and could not see any signs of water ingress. The only two earth points I could find are in the engine bay, either side by front lights. These were wire brushed, and all ring connectors sanded clean. Still no joy. I’ve tried to find out where any other earth points are – I asked on social media groups and forums and have been met with a total silence. Even a certain common repair book seems lacking in basic info as to where earth points are. Pretty sure they used to list the locations. Do you have any recommendations what to check – and where any other earth points could be? Early Citroën ownership is proving quite frustrating and the online community somewhat unhelpful. Darren Lane
A
The position of earth points on the vehicle did used to be information that was always listed. Having checked Autodata I can see that your Berlingo has nine earthing points. They are in the following positions: under the carpet on the lefthand and right-hand sill’s level with the front of the front seats, under the centre console towards the rear of the gear lever, the engine bay behind the lefthand and right-hand headlamps, and also the left-hand chassis leg, the front of the engine, the rear left-hand load area – and also by the rear left-hand light unit. The symptoms you have do point to an electrical problem that could be either as you suspected – an earthing problem or a BSI problem. I would first though check and remove the bulbs in the lamps to ensure that the contact points are good, and a failure of the circuit is not due to a bulb incorrectly connecting. Having then checked and cleaned all the
earthing points, I would next attempt to reset the BSI, this may be the source of the problem and a reset may rectify the fault. This is done as follows: First ensure you have the radio code for the vehicle if needed, then open the driver’s window and ensure that all auxiliary equipment is switched off. Switch off the ignition and open the bonnet. Close the driver’s door (ensure all doors are closed). Reaching in through the open window remove the key from the ignition. After three minutes disconnect the battery, and leave disconnected for around thirty seconds, before reconnecting again. Wait a further 15 seconds before reaching in through the open driver’s window and placing the key in the ignition, turn on the sidelights then turn on the ignition (do not start the engine). Hold the lock button on the key down for ten seconds, then remove the key from the ignition, then open and close the driver’s door. Start the engine. The central locking and the lights should now be checked, hopefully to discover that the faults have been rectified.
CITROËN C3
Engine oil
Q
I have just purchased a new (2023) Citroën C3 Aircross with a 1.2 130bhp engine. On reading reviews etc., the engine oil spec seems very important, but in the UK I am finding it difficult to decide what oil to use for topping-up between dealer services. I only cover about 5000 miles a year. Roy Middleton
A
From the details I have this should have the engine code HNS (EB2ADTS), and the specified oil recommended is SAE 0W-20 Synthetic, confirming to PSA B71 2010. This is a mid-SAPS (Sulfated Ash Phosphorus and Sulfur) oil. The capacity of the engine is 3.5 litres. I would not expect the engine to need topping-up between services, but of course it is important to check. Citroën normally recommend Mobil oil and the oil I would use is Mobil Super™ 3000 Formula P 0W-30 – this conforms fully to the requirements of your engine.
CITROËN C4
Oil details
Q
I’ve recently bought the newest car I’ve ever owned – a 2016 Citroën C4 Cactus 110 PureTech. Annoyingly it seems the manufacturer doesn’t want you to do any maintenance yourself, as the manual has no such information, even shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 02/01/2024 12:35
Help! DACIA DUSTER
Glow plug circuit
Q
The RAV4 which you have helped me with in the past has now ceased to be (or at least it will shortly) having failed us on a mountain road in Wales. Although the broken propshaft would clearly have been replaceable, the bodywork was so poor I decided not to spend more money and cut our losses. After very little searching (I know, probably not the best way to do things), we bought a 2015 Dacia Duster 1.5 dCi (K9K 856 engine) with 78K on the clock, basically on the grounds of it having very clean bodywork. Although the seller assured us (without paperwork) that the timing belt had been changed by the previous owner at around 60K, I removed the suspension mount and checked for myself – only to find the original Renault/Gates timing belt was still in place. I have ordered the replacement parts and hope to carry out this work (and water pump/auxiliary belt) later in the week – though the current belt looked reasonable, I don’t want to risk it! I do however have one problem on which I would like to ask your advice. Shortly after purchase I carried out a code-check on the car with my Autel scanner. This came up with a P0380 507E8 code (Glow Plug Heater circuit A). I tried clearing the code, but it immediately returned. Only a few days later (on re-reading the handbook) I realised that what I had taken to be the glow-plug preheating lamp on the dash, was in fact the engine management pre-start check-light and so, the glow-plug/preheating lamp is not actually lighting when the ignition is turned on, prior to starting. Unfortunately, I have little detail regarding the engine as the driver’s handbook is typically short of detail. I have checked all of the fuses, both in the engine compartment and the passenger door panel but found no fault (other than a blown fuse for the cigar lighter which after replacement now works). Could you possibly give me some pointers on where to start looking to address this P0380 ‘problem’? The car currently starts OK – maybe it’s a little slow to fire, but nothing significant but I would like to have the car firing correctly for the winter period. John Bentley
A
The code P0380 is showing that the glow plugs, circuit A has a malfunction. The first point to check would be the glow-plug relay and this is a separate unit which is away from the fusebox. Unfortunately, neither Autodata or any of my other sources actually give me a location for the unit, but I suspect given the size and shape, that it should be either on the bulkhead or possibly near the battery. Once located, the first check would be to ensure that it has a feed and that the terminals are good and clean. As the glow plug light is not operating, the problem should be due to the operation of the glow plug relay, but as the previous owner was less than honest about the cambelt replacement, and as the glow plug warning light does also give the indication of engine faults, it is possible the bulb has been The glow plug relay on the Dacia removed, and with this in mind, I would consider checking the fitment of the bulb first. If the bulb has been removed, you may find that once replaced, the code will clear, as the circuit will be restored. Duster 1.5 dCi. I then received a reply from John Thank-you so much for your advice. It was helpful and successful! To avoid the hassle of trying to get to the dash bulb, I actually began on your first point – searching for the glow plug relay. Online searches seemed to indicate it being mounted to the offside of the battery (and sometimes call it confusingly the 'pre-post-heating unit') but on this car, it was fixed forward of the battery, just behind the radiator. Removing the unit was a little fiddly as the connector, being below the unit and in a tight space, was hard to remove but once out, it was simple to clean up prior to refit. To be honest, although in a fairly exposed position near the front of the car, it didn’t seem too bad and the connectors looked OK, so I did wonder if there was an internal problem such that I might need a new unit. However with a tiny squirt of WD-40, I refitted and tried the ignition – the glow plug light came on and the engine started fine. I checked the fault code with my reader (showing as a stored code), cleared it and tried again – this time the code didn’t return, so I’m hopeful that the problem is (at least for the time being) resolved. of the basics! Neither could I persuade my local Citroën dealer to share their workshop manual! Sadly, no Haynes guides are available either and I can’t justify an Autodata subscription for just this vehicle. I’d like to change the gearbox oil next, as the gear change isn’t very smooth. Please can you confirm the oil spec and required quantity please? It’s the manual, five-speed gearbox on the 1.2 three-cylinder turbo petrol engine. Presumably there’s a level shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 69
One minor thing I overlooked was the radio requiring a code once the battery is disconnected (which I had done). Unfortunately, nobody in the past had thought to write the code in the car handbook or radio manual so I had to resort to ‘google’ advice and removed the radio to get to the radio label and the serial number. I then downloaded a freephone app (Renault Radio Code Generator), entered the serial number (with internet access required) and the four-digit number was returned. I followed the radio manual’s guidance on entering the digits and was relieved that it worked! Looking online it seems there are plenty of free websites where the radio code can be found if the serial number is known. Though it clearly defeats the whole point of the security code if stealing the unit gives the thief all the information, they require to find the unlock number! Anyway, the problem is now sorted so I’m just left waiting for a crankshaft locking pin set to arrive before I can have a go at the timing belt/water pump replacement. Again, thank you for your help. John Bentley
plug (I haven’t got under to look yet) for filling, or is it from above, within the engine bay? I see a little oil collected on top of the gearbox (under the battery) currently, could this have vented out of a gearbox breather? Rob Steele
A
You will be pleased to hear that a level plug and a drain plug are fitted to the gearbox, and the recommended filler point is at the vent at
the top of the gearbox. The level plug is at the end of the gearbox and would be best accessed from the wheelarch, and the drain point is at the base of the diff housing. The capacity of the gearbox is 1.8 litres, with a note that if filling from dry, (when new) the capacity would be 1.9 litres. The oil type did alter between 2012-15, but as your Citroën is a 2016 model this can be confirmed as HBVFE 2 75W – this is a monograde 75W oil.
Car Mechanics 69
February 2024
02/01/2024 12:35
Help!
PEUGEOT RCZ
Oil consumption worries
Q
I would like to ask your opinion with regards to the oil consumption on my 2012 Peugeot RCZ 1.6 petrol (THP 156bhp). I am generally pleased with the vehicle, but it seems to use a little more engine oil (about a pint roughly per month/ six weeks) than I would have expected. Is this normal, and if this is normal does the engine need to use oil? George Kemp
A
The general rule with engine oil use is that around 1 litre to 3000 miles is acceptable with some engines using far more at a rate of 1 litre per 1000 miles. It will depend on your monthly usage as to whether the one pint every four-six weeks is acceptable. If your annual mileage is around 8000
miles this would mean about 900 miles every six weeks. With these figures the oil usage of your engine would be around 1 litre every 2000 miles, which is an acceptable figure. The oil usage is part of the lubrication of the engine and whilst some engine will run quite happily without consuming oil in use, others will burn off a small amount of oil as it slips up past the piston rings when lubricating the bores. Different oils will also effect the rate of which the oil is consumed and it is important to ensure you always use the correct oil for your engine. The oil grade I have listed for your Peugeot is fully synthetic 0W-30. Peugeot specification OEM PSA B71 2312.
PEUGEOT 308
DPF worry
Q
Due to the current restrictions on driving my 2013 Peugeot 308 1.6 HDi, I am concerned about the DPF as I can’t take it for a quick blast up the M1 to regenerate it. I have seen it said that letting the engine tick-over for 15 minutes would do the job. I live in a hilly area and when I go to the shops I do a bit of a detour
PEUGEOT 406
Clutch trouble
Q
I need help with a bamboozling problem with my 1999 Peugeot 406 Coupe V6. I’ve fitted a new clutch – but it does not work. It’s a pulling clutch – my problem is getting the clutch releaser to locate in the clutch cover plate. I used a long hook to locate around the clutch actuating arm and pulled back sharply on it, there was a distinctive click, which I took to be the snap ring in the releaser locating in the clutch cover. Unfortunately, that turned out not to be. The clutch pedal had no feel and wouldn’t return at all – despite multiple bleeding attempts. I found that the clutch slave cylinder didn’t have enough travel to push the clutch actuating arm. I removed the gearbox again; the releaser was not located in the clutch cover – and the clicking noise when trying to locate it in the cover was the sound of it breaking. Before I fit another clutch releaser, a part that is not readily available – I hope to be better informed about how to locate it – without it breaking! I notice that there are three cross-threaded holes in the gearbox bellhousing around the hole where the slave cylinder locates. I suspect it’s to locate a service tool for this job. Please can you shed any light on this? Andrew Hopper
A
There is, as you suspect, a The tool part number special tool for the job of 0216-K used to locate the clutch locating the clutch release release bearing into the cover once bearing onto the centre cover, but this the gearbox has been replaced. is purely a rod with a square on the end which locates into the release arm (part number 0216K) and is used to pull the arm forcing the release bearing snap ring, to fit into the clutch cover. The instructions are then to push the tool to ensure the release bearing is clipped firmly into place before then twisting and removing the tool. The clutch slave cylinder should then be fitted. This is an operation I have always carried out with a hook, as you have done, and it may have been that the release arm, did have a defect which was not easily visible. I would also check while the gearbox is out, that the snap ring on the release bearing is free and that the sleeve does appear to locate into the clutch cover easily. The Peugeot manual also suggests a small amount of Molykote BR2 Plus grease should be applied to the bearing guide tube and the two fork supports.
70 Car Mechanics Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 70
February 2024
up hills in a low gear at fairly high revs for a few minutes. Am I wasting my time? Will Beck
A
I will first say that leaving the engine ticking over for 15 minutes will do nothing to help regenerate the DPF and would very likely have the opposite effect. A run up a hill in a lower gear to enable the engine to rev higher will help keep the DPF cleaner, but if the regeneration process begins the only way to complete it is to then drive the vehicle at a minimum speed of 40mph until the DPF warning on the dash is extinguished. Your Peugeot does use an additive system to help reduce the possibility of a DPF blockage and if the regeneration fails then a further journey could be made or the system can be regenerated using diagnostic equipment. If you are aware of repeated DPF regeneration attempts which have failed you should also check the engine oil level, as a failed regeneration can cause the oil level to rise as it is diluted by diesel which has entered the sump.
PEUGEOT 208
Infotainment centre
Q
I have a 2014 Peugeot 208 diesel automatic 1.4 HDi. The radio infotainment unit went completely dead, not coming on. It’s on warranty, so Peugeot said they replaced the unit, but it went dead again after a few cycles. I took it back and they initially said it needs an additional part. Now they are saying it could need a software update. This they said wasn’t possible on the radio in the first visit. It’s now booked in again. Do you know if any updates are possible that might remedy this fault, or are they just wasting time? Paul Ashford
A
For the screen to go completely dead, this does sound as though it is more of a problem with the screen as opposed to the software, but it is possible that an issue with the software could cause this. But as the unit has been replaced, I would expect the new unit to have the latest software edition installed, or if not for this to have been updated when fitted. I suspect that this may be a communication issue and they are requesting the return of the vehicle more to allow them to have another look, than to actually update the software. As this is under warranty then they will hopefully rectify the issue at the next visit, even if this involves work which they are not at this point intending to need to carry out. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 02/01/2024 12:35
Help! PEUGEOT BOXER
Flashing odometer
Q
I have a 2016 Peugeot Boxer 2.2 150bhp. With a Ford diesel engine? I have no idea unfortunately what ECU is fitted, sorry. We bought the vehicle about four months ago (it is a Moto-Trek EB). I had the radio from my exchanged Fiat Ducato, a Pioneer AVH-Z3200DAB to be installed. I bought a kit to install it as I was told it needs to be in CANbus for the steering wheel controls to work correctly. An Autowatch 695RLC was also fitted. Both items where installed by professionals. Not long after these items were fitted the odometer starting flashing with the ignition on. I googled this and many people replied that the Body Control Module requires ‘resetting’. I have a cheap OBDII reader but I get an error of ‘no connection’. One other suggestion was to disconnect the vehicle negative battery lead to allow the BCM to ‘sleep’. I did try this by sitting in the vehicle with everything off for 15 minutes. It did not work! Since then it has transpired that if it had worked lots of settings could be lost which would require a visit to a dealer for reprogramming. So, can you help please and perhaps recommend a OBDII scanner that could do the job for a reasonable cost? We intend to keep the vehicle for some time. Peter Evetts
A
As the problems did occur not long after the audio system and the alarm system were fitted, it is possible that the fault is related, yet the The Autowatch 695CAN alarm is a Thatcham-approved CAT 2-1 upgrade alarm system, designed to be used on full CANbus, semi-CANbus or conventional wiring systems, and being professionallyfitted I would not expect the problem you have to be a result of this. The first step I would take is the basic BCM reset procedure which is as follows: Open the bonnet and the driver’s window. Turn-off the ignition and remove the ignition key. Also turnoff any other circuits that may be in use, then wait three minutes before disconnecting the battery. Disconnect the battery and wait for at least 15 seconds before reconnecting, then wait a further 10 seconds before reaching in through the driver’s window and turning on the vehicle lights. Then again reaching in through the driver’s window and without opening the doors, turn on the ignition. Now hold the lock button on the key down for 10 seconds. Remove the key from the ignition open and close the door and test the central locking system. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 71
PEUGEOT 307
Non-start situation
Q
I have a 2005 Peugeot 307 1.6 which has 99,000 miles on the clock. I purchased it from the main dealers in 2010 with just 28,000 miles. I am a self-employed window cleaner, and I do a lot of short journeys, I probably stop/start the vehicle on average around fifteen times a day. I have recently had new spark plugs fitted, what has suddenly started happening is that in the last month it’s refused to start, the engine turns over (the battery is well charged). So, after the second turn of the key I call out the RAC, then after 15-30 minutes, I turn the key again and would you believe it, it starts first time, as it always has done over the years I have had it. This has happened five times in the last month. This morning the RAC man said, let me check your ECU for any fault codes. None were found. He said he thought it might be my fuel filter or crank position sensor. He recommended that I take it to a garage for a check-up. I looked in Haynes manual, it gave about five reasons for if the engine turns over but won’t start. I disregarded four of them but the fifth said low compression. It’s a good engine with excellent acceleration. Also, this problem is not temperature dependant. On the first occasion I had driven five miles from home, cleaned some windows then got back in the vehicle, the engine was still warm, but it would not start. When the RAC came out an hour later it started on the first turn of the key. The last time the problem occurred it had been standing all night on the street, it was quite cold and again it would not start. I only every try it twice as I do not want to run the battery down. I always give it regular oil changes so I thought I would write to you before taking it in. By the way I am not online and so cannot view any links, can you give me any insight? Keith Smith
A
There are a number of reasons for the non-start situation listed on Autodata, but these involve the blowing of a fuse, which would need to be replaced to remedy the situation. As your Peugeot does start on its own after a rest, then none of these scenarios would be the cause of the problem on your 307. The crankshaft sensor which One component that could give the may be part of problem you encounter without leaving the problem. a code in the engine control unit, and that could give the intermittent issue you have, is the crankshaft position sensor, as mentioned by the RAC operative. I would start by checking the wiring to the sensor and the plug terminals to ensure all is clean, and as this is not an expensive unit, I would consider renewing it as a matter of course. The other point mentioned by the RAC was the fuel supply and whilst I would not expect this to be a filter issue, which would in my mind give more of a problem whilst driving, it may be related to the fuel pump relay in the underbonnet fusebox. The feed for the fuel pump is fed from the relay via fuse number 2 in the underbonnet fusebox, and if you cannot hear the fuel pump when turning the ignition on to start, then checking that the fuse 2 has a feed would be one way to eliminate or expose the relay as the issue. If the fuse does have a feed but you cannot hear the fuel pump running when the ignition is turned on, then it may be the pump itself which is sticking. Start the engine and complete the system’s check. Although I am not confident this will solve your issues, it should be completed first to eliminate the possibility. If the problem does persist, the fault may be within the speedo head unit, this is a common fault and one which needs a repair of the instrument cluster to rectify. www.ecutesting.com can test and repair your unit for £175. Plus shipping and VAT. www.autotronics.co.uk are showing a price on the earlier Boxer (2006-2014) of £110 but it may be worth
contacting them for details of your model. With regard to the software for code reading if you wish to carry out any reprogramming the most cost-effective solution would be a software package connected up to a suitable laptop. The PSA-COM Advanced Peugeot/Citroën package at £425 from this website would probably be the best choice https://bit.ly/CM0gPsw I would, though, discuss this further with the site owners who are best placed to ensure you get the correct product for your needs.
Car Mechanics 71
February 2024
02/01/2024 12:35
Help!
RENAULT MEGANE
Overheating warning
Q
A friend’s 2006 Renault Megane diesel has been showing an overheating warning from time to time. They put it into a garage for checking and were told they could find nothing wrong with it. Which is reassuring if they’ve done their job properly. My friend asked if I could do a coolant change. I said this was unlikely to cure an overheating issue, but they said they wanted it done anyway, as a precaution. I agreed in principle and did some research and found out that Renault put a special coolant in their cars that doesn’t like being mixed with other fluid. Can you comment on this? These special types are usually expensive and I would need to drain and flush the system thoroughly to get all remaining Renault coolant out if I was to use a cheaper brand, say Bluecol. Also, are there any special techniques or bleeding procedures with this car? I believe it has two bleed points in the system. Gary Mills
A
The coolant in your friend’s Renault should be Glaxceol RX Type D. There are really only three different antifreeze types – IAT, OAT and HOAT – and they all come in different colour variations, but this is only a dye. IAT is Inorganic Additive Technology. This is the ethylene glycol type which was in standard use for many years, containing silicates and phosphates as corrosion inhibitors. OAT is Organic Additive Technology and is the coolant used by many modern vehicles, including your friend’s Renault. Its formula has changed since its first introduction due to the original mixture being associated with the failure of rubber seals in certain cooling systems. It should not be used in older vehicles which have copper or brass components. HOAT is Hybrid Organic Additive Technology and is more of a bridge between IAT and OAT than a formula in its own right. It still cannot be used in older vehicles due to its corrosive properties, but is more suited to cast iron than alloy engines. There are also waterless coolants, but they are mainly used in low-use classic vehicles. The way that the coolant works chemically is also very different, but to prevent this being a four-page feature, 72 Car Mechanics Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 72
February 2024
I will stop there. As you are going to completely replace the coolant, you can use a coolant such as Comma Xstream G30 or any similar proprietary brand. This is an ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and coolant with OAT inhibitors and has a five-year service life. Renault have a special tool for the changing of the cooling system, but in practice this is not necessary. The cooling system can be drained by removing the expansion bottle cap and the bottom hose. Antifreeze is harmful to animals and humans and old coolant should be recovered using a suitable container and disposed off at your local recycling centre. Once the system is drained down, flushing through with a hose will ensure all the old coolant has been purged from the system, as well as confirming that the system is flowing freely. You may also wish to remove the top hose and flush through from the top radiator entry point. When the water is running clearly from the bottom hose, it can be allowed to drain before connecting up the hose. The bleed screws on the heater hose should then be undone before refilling the cooling system with the correctly mixed coolant. When the coolant begins to run from the bleed screws, they should be tightened. Once the expansion tank has been topped up, the engine should be run with the pressure cap off until the engine is up to temperature and the thermostat has opened. The bleed screws should not be opened with the engine running. After this, the pressure cap can be refitted and the vehicle given a quick drive to ensure the heater is operating. Then leave the engine to cool before rechecking the coolant level.
RENAULT KANGOO
Handle & lock removal
Q
I recently had to replace the driver’s door on my 2003 Renault Kangoo. When I came to remove the door handle and lock assembly, what I thought would be a two-minute job took a lot longer and I managed to break the plastic body at one point before it came out. The barrel of the lock (which was the next thing to remove) seemed to come out very easily after that, but it is one of those situations where I am not sure how I did it. I am looking to remove the handle assembly on the replacement door, but I’m concerned I will accidentally break this one as well, as I am looking to put the barrel from my old door handle assembly into the undamaged handle assembly on the replacement door. I removed one screw and it seems to me that should have been enough to release the handle, but it appears that part of the plastic body is locking it into
the door somehow, although I can’t figure out how it is fixed – having large hands doesn’t help and Renault seem to have designed the door to make access awkward! Clive Charles
A
When removing the door handle assembly, the lock barrel should be the first part to be extracted. First, detach the lock barrel cover on the exterior of the unit. Then, looking at the side face of the door, just above the door catch mechanism and level with the door handle, you should see a small blanking plug. After removing this plug, the lock assembly is detached by undoing the bolt which is accessed through the visible hole. Once this bolt is undone, the lock barrel assembly should pull out of the door, leaving just the handle in place. The handle is secured by a clip from inside the door panel and this needs to be released to allow the handle to be removed. Once the handle is out of the way, refitting should be easier as you will be able to visualise the locking mechanism as you replace it. The securing bolt for the lock barrel assembly should be tightened to 2Nm.
RENAULT LAGUNA
Early clutch failure
Q
I seem to have a problem with the clutch assembly on my 2007 Renault Laguna 1.6. The clutch was replaced about 20,000 kilometres ago, but is already showing signs of slipping. It's quite heavy to operate and the biting point is very high through the pedal travel. All elements were replaced with quality Sachs parts, including the pressure plate and the releaser. Is it possible that a thermallydamaged flywheel is the culprit? Greg Piwowarski
A
The clutch operation on your Laguna is hydraulically-operated and generally this should give a fairly light clutch compared to a cable system. It could be the case that an overheated and damaged flywheel is giving a lower coefficient of friction, allowing an earlier than expected failure of the clutch, but if this was the case I would not normally expect the pedal to feel heavier as a result. It’s possible the clutch cover or the concentric slave cylinder have failed prematurely or that the splines in the input shaft were not clean when the clutch was assembled, so the centre plate has been sticking on the splines. As the clutch will need to be replaced, a close inspection of the old assembly may reveal the problem. Inspect the clutch cover diaphragm spring for any signs of unevenness. You should also check the centre plate for any uneven shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 02/01/2024 12:35
Help! RENAULT CLIO II
Trouble finding correct wishbones
Q
I’ve come up against a bit of problem regarding the wishbones on my 2004 Renault Clio II 2.0. Renault have now discontinued them, and it would seem not released the pattern to the aftermarket. Entering my reg number into every single aftermarket supplier website, the ones they list all have the wrong anti-roll bar connection. See attachments. However, after much web searching I stumbled across some Delphi ones TC740/741 that had the right connection. Looking at their e-catalogue it shows they were fitted to a 2003 2.0 8v Megane and speaking to their technical helpline the advisor said there was a good chance they’d match up. Got some today but I noticed that the balljoint mounting bolts are a smaller diameter than mine, I can’t give you exact shank diameters but the head size of the bolts on Delphi arm are 17mm and mine are 19mm. This meant I couldn’t put the bolts through the arm mounting holes and balljoint holes, nip them up and measure the distance between them, as this IMO is the crucial dimension, which if both dimensions matched up on both arms would indicate they’d fit no problems. So, I came up with the idea of putting both arms on top of each other with both in contact with the wall and put a set square up against the end of the joint to see if they both made contact with it. It looked like the Delphi ones were going to be a bit short but not by much, see photos. I think I’m right in saying, if I were to fit them it would effectively reduce track width by a few millimetres. What effect, if any, would this have on the rest of the geometry. Also I’d have thought a Megane would have at least the same if not wider track than my car given it’s a bigger car. Anthony Pattinson
A
The effective change in a different size lower wishbone, would be in the camber of the vehicle, and so this would affect tyre wear and the road handling. It is very difficult to measure the two arms by sitting one on top of the other, and this may not give an accurate measurement. The distance between the back of the arm and the bush may vary and this would distort the measurement affecting the final position of the hub. It should also be noted that the size of the arm The readers pictures showing the anti-roll bar mount slot and the measurement of the two arms. is less a consideration on the overall track, than the front subframe, so a wider subframe with a shorter lower arm could alter the distance. Looking through the Delphi catalogue I note that the arm TC1256 also has the same slotted anti-roll bar link fixing. The full Delphi catalogue can be accessed at this website https://bit.ly/CM4jDP2. This does give many dimensions and may be of greater help finding the correct arm. It does not though appear to list an arm specifically for your Clio. It may be worth filling out the contact us form on the Delphi website at this link https://bit.ly/CMipDcP and the technical department may be able to give more details on the fitment. wear or broken or missing reaction springs. There is a slight possibility that the hydraulic system is to blame, although this is quite rare. I would also ensure that the fluid in the clutch hydraulic system is not becoming contaminated with fragments due to a failing seal.
RENAULT MEGANE
Window woes
Q
Need some help with the electric windows on my 2008 Renault Megane 2 16v. The Megane has been standing and I have recently fitted a replacement engine and it is now running again, but none of the electric windows will work. Working on the driver’s door I have checked the motor, with a direct 12-volt feed and this worked fine. I have replaced Temic module twice, still nothing. At the 6-pin connector to the Temic module I have: PIN 1 – earth when switch is activated PIN 2 – earth when switch is activated PIN 3 – NEUTRAL shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 73
PIN 4 – 12V supply PIN 5 – NOT USED PIN 6 – 12V supply It must be a common problem in the system affecting all windows, from the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual PIN 6 goes back to the UCH. Could this be the issue, should it be 12V? I would appreciate any advice you can give. Ivan Stockton
A
The window system on the Renault is a very complex system and even with the benefit of the wiring diagram I have, it only shows the connection on number 6 terminal, to the multiplex module, but does not indicate its purpose or the current flow. The other problem is it does not show the internal workings of the Temic module, which would help to ascertain why Renault needed such a complex unit for a simple reverse polarity motor. Although the UCH (Unite Centrale Habitacle) can prove problematic, this normally has a wider range of faults attached to it and for this reason, unless you have any further problems with the vehicle such as indicators or light problems, I would be hesitant to go down that road.
The Temic module does only control the motor it is connected to, though, and as none of the vehicles windows are operating I would look at another possible and very likely suspect, the driver’s window switch. I have encountered problems in the past which have resulted in the switch being the source of the problem. If you do take this route and source a second-hand unit, do be sure to get the correct one. There are variations and a switch from a different model will not work. I say this from experience after a Megane was bought into the garage with a similar problem (no windows were operating). The owner told me he had replaced the switch first, but still nothing worked. After extensive testing I discovered that the new window switch fitted was the wrong one for the vehicle – the correct switch was fitted and the windows then worked. Finally, even though you do appear to have the correct feeds showing at the Temic unit I would also check the wiring between the door and the body carefully. The short loom between the door and the body does have a habit of breaking and the wires can short-out or become open circuit.
Car Mechanics 73
February 2024
02/01/2024 12:35
Help! RENAULT TRAFIC
Hot engine start problem
Q
I have owned my 2006 Renault Trafic SL29 1.9 dCi from January 2011 and it has now covered 225,000 miles. During my ownership, it has had an oil and filter change every six months regardless of mileage (I do about 10,000-12,000 miles per year) and has received a new air and fuel filter and a bottle of fuel system cleaner every 12 months. Prior to me, it was owned by the AA, so it has a very good service history. About nine months ago, I noticed that when the engine was hot – say, after doing a 20-minute drive or more – it would take two or three times more cranking before the engine would start. But from cold after being left for several hours or overnight, it always started instantly. This anomaly persists today and doesn’t seem to have gotten any worse. About a month ago, while travelling down the A10 at about 60-70mph, I noticed a faint tapping/rattle, especially under load. If I released the throttle just a tiny bit, it sounded like top-end/valve rattle, as if the valve train had been starved of oil, although this isn’t the case. Since then, the van is definitely down on power. It feels OK around town, but trying to build speed quickly on a motorway slip road or pulling out at busy roundabouts it is very sluggish compared to before. It will still manage 80mph, but at a slower/noisier pace. The tapping/rattle has got worse and louder and now occurs even under light load and while driving around town, although it can’t be heard while idling or revving when stationary. It still starts perfectly from cold at the first turn of the key. At first, I thought it was just due to a worn engine, given its mileage, but considering how it has progressed, I’m beginning to think there’s a fault with the fuel/injection system, maybe diesel knock. I have no evidence of the high-pressure pump or injectors ever having been replaced. There are no engine warning lights and no fault codes according to my Foxwell NT644. The fuel pressure at the common-rail is showing 340-350 Bar at idle. I’m not sure where to go next. Do I replace the injectors, as they seem to be the likely or should I get them tested first? Should I replace the pump or have it tested? Ben Nickless
A
Before reaching too deeply into your pocket, I would try replacing the crankshaft sensor. I have come across quite a few of these that give problems without failing completely. The sensor is located at the front of the gearbox bellhousing and is held by a 10mm bolt. It is easily replaced and a new sensor is not that expensive. 74 Car Mechanics Help FEBRUARY 2024.indd 74
February 2024
If this does not cure the problem, the next part to check would be the camshaft sprocket. This will be more involved and if the engine is due for a timing belt soon, I would combine the two jobs. I would also mention that, if the timing belt was recently changed, the problem may have developed due to the work carried out. These engines are prone to failure due to the camshaft sprocket key allowing movement in the sprocket. This, in turn, allows the sprocket to move and results in the valve timing becoming misaligned. This would explain the tapping/rattling noise. According to Autodata, the fuel rail delivery pressure should be 1350 Bar, but this does not specify the engine speed. I would normally expect any associated fuel delivery problems to result in smoke from the exhaust. As you do not mention any smoke, the fuel system would be the least likely culprit and I would check out the other two possible causes first. I would also advise that the fuel system components be tested if possible, as opposed to simply replacing them. This will give a better understanding of the problem and may save unnecessary expense.
RENAULT MASTER
Blower motor
Q
I’m having some problems with my 2018 Renault Master LWB van. The van is running/driving fine, but out of the blue yesterday the blower stopped working – aircon switch is lit up but when pressed won’t turn off – no fan at all on any setting. At the same time, the ABS light came on the dash along with ESP and there is no speedometer working either. After plugging in to see what fault codes were present, there was only one, which is DF 263 and it’s constantly active straight after trying to clear it. I have also noticed that I can’t communicate with the ABS system, it goes to 50% on the scanner then just jumps straight to the airbag system. I have checked the battery voltage and it’s charging fine, even connected to a charger in case the alternator was intermittently failing. All fuse links and connections at the battery are clean. Earths under engine bay are clean (I removed them and cleaned), the only one I didn’t remove was the earth strap at the gearbox to chassis. All other fuses are good, unless there is a hidden one I have not found. There are some hidden deep down under the engine bay fuse board, but these are OK. With the plug removed from the ABS unit, I had hoped to get many fault codes but nothing appears for the ABS system – as if it isn’t getting power or has failed. Not too sure where to go or check from here... James Fraser
Have a problem vehicle? GET IN TOUCH... If you have a problem vehicle, Car Mechanics has the answer in the shape of our technical editor STEVE ROTHWELL. Contact Steve, as detailed below, for FREE advice on all car-related problems. Please help Steve to help you by giving as much information on the symptoms as you can – including the VEHICLE REGISTRATION NUMBER. As Help! is a free service, some complex questions may require more time and resources than we can reasonably allow – when this is the case we will let you know. Steve will reply to all queries as quickly as possible, but please allow up to 28 days for a reply. Difficult/ complex questions or those requiring research may take a little longer – please be patient. Neither Kelsey Publishing nor Steve Rothwell can accept any liability for loss, damage or injury resulting from replies to readers’ queries. To access the listed web addresses starting with http://bit.ly just type these into your browser address line, rather than the search engine and they should work as intended.
E-MAIL: carmechanicshelp@yahoo.co.uk Please include your postal address
WRITE (enclosing a SAE): HELP! QUERIES, CAR MECHANICS KELSEY MEDIA, THE GRANARY, DOWNS COURT, YALDING HILL, YALDING, KENT ME18 6AL
A
Given the wide range of electrical problems this does sound like a main terminal or earth connection at some point which is connecting the different systems. The code DF 263 is indicating a short circuit to earth and the problem is most likely to be in the fusebox under the floor by the battery. I would disconnect the battery and remove and check this fusebox and the various feeds that come from it, ensuring the terminals are clean before refitting. If nothing can be found then I would refit the fusebox and remove all the fuses – from the details I have there are only six. Then reconnect each fuse in turn and check for the fault code and the operation and connectivity of the ABS system. Given that such a wide range of problems is present on the different systems I would suspect that this fusebox or a connection within the fusebox is at the root cause of the problems. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 02/01/2024 12:35
EARLY BIRD SPECIAL LOW PRICES OFFERS END 31st JANUARY 2024
South of England Showground, Ardingly, West Sussex, 12th May 2024
EUROPE'S LARGEST CLASSIC FORD EVENT SAVE 60% UP TO
ON TICKET PRICES
TICKETS START FROM From the publisher of
£10
BOOK ONLINE BEFORE 31st JANUARY 2024 FOR THE BEST TICKET PRICES!
classicfordshow.co.uk T&C’S: Book online at www.classicfordshow.co.uk . Earlybird tickets: £10 (club tickets) and £15 (public tickets). Early bird ticket offer ends 31st January 2024. Booking fee applies. All attractions are subject to change. See website for all ticket prices, offers and other terms and conditions.
Classic Ford Early Bird.indd 3
15/12/2023 10:12
Diagnostics Doctor Steve Rothwell answering your ENGINE MANAGEMENT queries FORD CMAX
Self-revving engine
Q
I have a problem with a 2004 Ford C-MAX 1.8 petrol. The problem we have is an intermittent problem. You can start the engine with no foot on the accelerator and it will rev up to 5500-6000rpm on its own and won’t stop – so you have to turn it off. Turn it back on and its fine but doesn’t do it all the time and the temperature make no difference. There are no fault codes so I have changed the throttle body for a second-hand one in case the potentiometer was faulty, but this has made no difference. There are no air leaks. Any ideas would be good to point me in right direction. Mark Deane
A
Having ruled out the possibility of any air leaks, I would first check the EGR valve to ensure that this is not sticking. The fitment of an EGR valve is not as common on the petrol engine as on the diesel, but from the details given I see that this 1.8 engine does have an EGR valve fitted at the back of the cylinder-head. If this is not the issue then it would also be worth checking the EVAP valve located in the same area. Either of these components could allow an air leak that may not be detected under normal conditions. If both these sources can be dismissed, then I would check the accelerator pedal – this may the source of the issue and I would expect this to be visible using live data on a suitable diagnostic scanner.
FORD FOCUS
Is the catalyst at fault?
Q
I have a 2012 Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost. A few months ago, the engine warning light came on, using an OBD adapter and FORSCAN software on my laptop I was able to read the code P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. I cleared the code, but it returned a few weeks later. I again cleared the code though this time put a bottle of Cataclean in before doing a 200-mile journey. Again, the code returned a few weeks later. My first thought is the catalytic converter has failed – however I’ve heard that this could also be caused by one of the O2 sensors giving a bad reading. I can view the live data from the sensors using FORSCAN. Will I be able to tell if a sensor is faulty? If so, what sort of waveform should I be looking for? The Focus has only done 48,000 miles, which seems low for the catalytic converter to have failed. Could there be another underlying issue which has caused the cat to fail prematurely without giving a different fault code? Any help is appreciated. Daniel Barker
The O2 sensor may be the cause of the problem and should be checked.
A
The code P0420 does equate to the catalyst convertor showing as being under efficient, but this may be due to the O2 sensor at the rear of the convertor which is faulty. The code will come up when the up-stream and down-stream O2 sensors are giving a similar reading, indicating that the catalytic convertor is not operating. The waveform you will be looking for on your FORSCAN is a steady switching pattern from the front sensor and a steady pattern from the rear sensor, but if the cat has failed, then the rear sensor will if operating correctly mimic the front sensor as the gasses pass through the system. An exhaust leak in the manifold or between the manifold and the cat can be the cause of the code, as this allows air to enter and distort the reading. In this case you may see a very shallow waveform from the front sensor, indicating it is not reading the mixture adjustment. It is also possible that a poor connection on the O2 sensor connecting plug is causing a voltage drop and allowing an incorrect reading, and so the connecting plugs should be checked. Another possible scenario is that a blockage in the exhaust is causing back pressure, and this can also cause the code to appear, but if this was the case it is likely that you would feel a difference in the performance. As you kindly supplied the registration number, I can see that the MOT is due in a couple of months, I would be inclined to wait for the exhaust emissions to be tested before any replacement of the catalytic convertor, as this will be a more definitive test as to if the problem is a poor sensor or a failed cat. Providing the EML is off when the vehicle goes in for the test, then the system should be working correctly, and if at this point the emissions do not meet the specified requirements, this may give a better insight. Damage to a catalytic convertor can occur due to a number of reasons, but as you have mentioned at the mileage on your Focus, this would be unusual. As the code does take a while to return, I suspect this may be more likely due to a sensor or air leak, or even a possible weeping injector, rather than the catalytic convertor.
76 Car Mechanics
February 2024
Diagnostics Doctor FEBRUARY 2024.indd 76
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 10:38
Diagnostics Doctor HONDA HRV
Exhaust gas temperature sender
Q
I have a 2001 Honda HR-V 1.6 petrol with CVT transmission. Until recently everything has been fine. I used a cheap code reader when the check engine light came on. The error code given was P1473. Looking this up in download workshop manual it says that it is a faulty EGT sensor. The light comes on when driving about 55-60mph with the aircon on or off. Sometimes it doesn’t come on. Two things really. Where is the sensor located? I can’t seem to find it. Also, I can’t locate a new EGT sensor. It is unavailable according to the Honda website that I checked. I assume that it is the sensor, and it would be a pity to have to scrap the car. Thanks for your help. Chris Gaskell
The fitting hole for the temperature sensor can be seen at the centre of the cat.
A
The code P1473 does refer to the exhaust gas temperature sensor and indicates that the voltage is high. This may be a faulty sensor or it may be due to the wiring to the sensor. The details I have list the sensor as being located towards the centre of the catalytic convertor, under the vehicle floor. Looking at the images of the catalytic convertor, this should be central on the main body of the unit, as shown in the picture. I did locate a sensor at this website https://bit.ly/CMN6EgT and it may be possible to find via other factors.
NISSAN NOTE
Fault code
Q
You recently advised me on our 2016 Nissan Note 1.2 petrol with a Lambda fault which failed the MOT on the emissions. This was resolved as a misfire, cured with new plugs/coils, and manifold plus throttle body gaskets. I’m sorry to say I’m looking for advice so soon again. The Nissan has done 250 miles since, and now has the EML lit with fault code P0137 (O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2). The engine has had a petrol smell on cold starting after the previous work, so I checked the engine bay for anything obvious that I’d maybe not tightened. The only possible reason was the jubilee clip on the throttle body rubber pipework which I tightened. I should also mention the code came on shortly after running over the plastic back of a car mirror on a narrow road. I cleared the fault code but exactly one week and less than 10 miles later, the EML came back on, with the same code. I’ve checked under the car – the post-cat sensor wires seem undamaged (thought maybe the mirror back I’d run over had caught them) and nothing else is obvious. My local garage seems to think it’ll just be the O2 sensor that needs changing, but I’m just wondering if this could be connected to my previous troubles. It’s booked in with them next week as the car still has an aftersales warranty. I just wondered if you’d think it could be more than a sensor? On a general note, the engine tickover always sounds rough to me, but it’s the first petrol car we’ve had in 25 years and as it’s a 3-cylinder presume its maybe just me. The fault code reader I have, although relatively cheap does have live data on some functions, although to be honest I don’t understand most of it, but interestingly it says there’s no report of any misfires on all three cylinders, and tickover fluctuates between 788-800rpm if this helps. Sorry to waffle on, but after years of diesels that run forever this car is becoming the bane of my life. Roger Kretzschmar
A
The code P0137 indicates that the heated oxygen sensor 2, bank 1 is reading a low voltage. This can be due to the sensor itself, a wiring issue – but it can also be caused by an exhaust system leak.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Diagnostics Doctor FEBRUARY 2024.indd 77
The sensor can be checked using an ohm meter and with an exhaust system temperature of around 25°C the readings between the terminals 3 and 4 (green and black wires) should be 1.9-2.7 Ω. If this is correct the next test would be to ensure that the terminal 4 (black wire) has a feed of battery voltage with the ignition on. As the vehicle did have the earlier fault, it is quite plausible that a leak in the system is contributing to the issue, but it would be difficult to say. It is also possible that the mirror back that was run over, has flung up and may have compromised the wiring, and so this is the reason I would advise that the tests are done first to ensure that the fault is with the sensor and not due to a wiring/feed issue. Hopefully once these tests are completed the full diagnosis can be made. I would comment that the 3-cylinder engines do have a less smooth tickover than the 4-cylinder engines, and this is true of both petrol and diesel versions. I would also add that if a misfire was present on a 3-cylinder engine, you would be left in no doubt, and this would give a very uneven feel to the running of the vehicle. I would conclude by saying that as the vehicle is under the warranty, I would be happy to allow them to replace the 02 sensor if that is their conclusion, and if this does not rectify the issue, then they will of course need to look deeper into the issue.
Car Mechanics 77
February 2024
07/01/2024 10:38
Diagnostics Doctor
Diagnostics Doctor
CONTINUED NISSAN MICRA
Body control module
Q
My friend has a 2007 Nissan Micra convertible which has been off the road for a few weeks now because the local garage, who is also the Nissan agent, is at a loss for any repair. Seemingly the BCM (Body Control Module) has failed, and no one can find a replacement, or knows of anyone who can repair or provide an exchange unit. Can you help? Allan Turner
A
There are a few companies who should be able to provide a repair service for the BCM. As you have written in, I suspect you may not have internet access and so I will list the companies and the telephone numbers for you. The companies listed in alphabetical order to try are: Actronics 01206 849920 Autotronics 0116 276 7054 ECU Testing 01773 535638 I would hope that one of these companies would be able to test and either repair or supply an exchange unit. All offer a by post option and so distance is not an obstacle.
Diagnostics Doctor is a FREE helpline service for CM readers – including trade readers – who are struggling with diagnostic/engine management related faults. Steve Rothwell will answer all your queries. He will need as much detail as possible: MAKE, MODEL, YEAR, ENGINE CODE and NUMBERPLATE of your vehicle – and the type of management system installed. Obviously, Steve will not be able to assess the vehicle up close, so his answer will be on the basis solely of your description. This is a FREE service and it may take some time to respond to certain problems. If you would like to receive a personal response via post, please enclose an SAE. e-mail:
cmdiagnostics@yahoo.co.uk Write to:
DIAGNOSTICS DOCTOR CAR MECHANICS, KELSEY MEDIA THE GRANARY, DOWNS COURT YALDING HILL, YALDING, KENT ME18 6AL
VOLKSWAGEN BORA
EML sporadic appearance
Q
The EML sporadically comes on in my 2001 VW Bora 1600 petrol SE Automatic, VW model code 1J2, engine type AVU and engine code BFQ. Usually accompanied by the ‘Emissions – Workshop’ legend on the indicator panel. Fault codes are: 16555 – Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean; 17811 - EGR System Control Difference; 17698 – A/C Engine Coolant (ECT) Sensor Radiator Outlet Signal Too Low; 16514 O2 Sensor Circuit, Bank 1, Sensor 1 Malfunction. There are also codes for misfires although these vary and include 16685 – Cylinder 1; 16686 - Cylinder 2; 16684 – Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire. The car runs extremely well – no misfiring although it can be a little rough when cold until it warms up. The car has had fitted a new: EGR; Lambda sensors both before and after the catalyst; camshaft sensor; coil pack; spark plugs and leads; pipe between the secondary air pump and EGR (it had a small split); radiator temperature sensor. Even after all this work, the EML still lights up. There doesn’t appear to be any consistency as to when it lights up. I reset it and then a few hours, days or even a couple of weeks it pops up again. I am at a loss I’m afraid as to what the problem could be. The car is a fine old motor and is a pleasure to drive. Any help you can offer would be really appreciated. Andy Thompson
A
Given the work that has already been undertaken and the components that have been changed, it is highly likely that the problem will be due to either a poor connection on the engine control unit multiplug, or a fault within the engine loom. You do already have the translations of the codes, and these are accurate. The only exception is that the code 17811 indicates: Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system - control difference, and this is due to the basic setting not carried out. Whilst the general area of the codes other than the CTS can all be connected to the fuel system, with the codes still showing for the EGR valve and O2 sensors which have been replaced, this does suggest that a communication issue is more likely than a component issue. For this reason, I would start by checking the engine control unit multi-plug to ensure this is perfectly clean and that no verdigris is present on the terminals. It can be surprising how much resistance a dirty connection will cause, and this can be the source of many issues. If after examining the plug, the terminals all appear to be in a good clean condition then I would check the continuity of the loom, checking back to the O2, CTS, EGR, injector and coil packs. This may show up the problem. If after these tests nothing has been revealed, then it may be the case that the engine control unit (ECU) is at fault, and this will need testing. 78 Car Mechanics
February 2024
Diagnostics Doctor FEBRUARY 2024.indd 78
Common abbreviations ATS
Air Temperature Sensor
AFM Air-Flow Meter – not a MAF type (see below). It could be, for example, a vane type CAS Crank Angle Sensor CPS
Crank Position Sensor
CTS
Coolant Temperature Sensor
ECT
Engine Coolant Temperature
ECM Electronic Control Module ECU Electronic Control Unit EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation – meters exhaust gas back to the intake manifold EML Engine Management Light EMS Engine Management System EPC
Electronic Power Control
FCR
Fault Code Reader
HT
High Tension – ignition output to the spark plugs
IAV
Idle Air Valve
ISCV Idle Speed Control Valve – usually operated by a motor controlled by the ECU LOS
Limited Operating Strategy – if the ECU detects a malfunction, it runs a programme to allow the car to still go, but at reduced efficiency
MAF Mass Air-Flow meter MAP Manifold Air Pressure MIL
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation – takes crankcase gases and recycles back to the inlet system TBPS Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor – used by the ECU to regulate turbo output TPS
Throttle Position Sensor
VSS
Vehicle Speed Sensor
WOT Wide Open Throttle
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 10:38
@topdonofficial
7 The Old Mill, Reading Road, Pangbourne, Reading, UK, RG8 7HY
Electronic Diagnostics
FIAT 500 1.2 PETROL
Tracing and fixing faults in electronic engine management systems Rob Hawkins visits Italian car specialist Turin Motors of Leeds to discover some of the common engine management issues on the popular 1242cc 69bhp Fiat 500.
L
aunched in 2008, the long-awaited Fiat 500 became an instant hit. The one we’re looking at is from 2012 and is powered by a four-cylinder 1242cc single-cam engine that’s also fitted to the Mk2 Ford Ka. In fact, both the Ka and 500 were assembled at the same Polish production plant. Regular CM readers may recall the Survival Guide on the 500 in the April 2017 issue, which explained, “The 1.2 is reliable, although some software fixes have been needed to cure hesitation at low speeds. Also, the breather pipes can split on early engines leading to oil/petrol fumes in the cabin. When removing the airbox on this engine it pays to be careful as the fitting for the second smaller breather pipe on the rear snaps off easily.” Nearly seven years since that Survival Guide and the list of potential issues has grown, so we visited a specialist that deals with the 500 on a regular basis, Turin Motors of Leeds in West Yorkshire, to find out more.
Our list of eight common problems won’t apply to every 500 with a 1.2 motor but should help to work through issues as and when they arise. Quite often, problems are not so straightforward to diagnose and can easily lead you off in the wrong direction.
1242cc 4-cylinder petrol
FUSEBOX IGNITION COILS
UNDER AIR FILTER HOUSING
VVT SOLENOID
➌
PRECAT LAMBDA SENSOR
80 Car Mechanics ED337 FIAT 500 1.2.indd 80
February 2024
ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 11:10
IN ASSOCIATION WITH TOPDON
TECH SPECS 1242cc single-cam VVT petrol Engine oil 5W-40 fully-synthetic Oil capacity (with filter) 2.8 litres Coolant capacity 4.8 litres Engine
TORQUE SETTINGS Sump drain plug 20Nm Oil filter 26Nm (+/-2Nm) Road wheels: steels 86Nm (+/-9Nm) alloys 98Nm (+/-10Nm)
Typical FIAT 500 COMPONENTS
The EOBD port is to the right of the driver’s side of the dashboard (on a RHD model). Unclip a small trim panel to reveal what’s shown here. There will probably be a small plastic cover over the yellow port which needs to be removed to access it and connect a fault code reader.
1
The vehicle battery is in the nearside of the engine bay. When connecting diagnostic equipment to the vehicle, the battery’s voltage can drop, resulting in unwanted anomalies, so attaching a boost pack will help to maintain its voltage and avoid such issues.
2
ArtiDiag900 BT Professional Diagnostics within reach
The ArtiDiag900 BT empowers technicians to break free from the limits of wires, providing unparalleled flexibility and convenience. Supporting 28 maintenance services and full system diagnostics for 130+ brands, the ArtiDiag900 BT unlocks maximum productivity and efficiency in your vehicle repairs. ECU coding helps to optimise your car’s performance and customise its features; Bi-directional control allows technicians to communicate with vehicle systems and components to locate the vehicle’s issue with efficiency and accuracy. All of these functions are performed without one cable, instead using the wireless Bluetooth VCI to bring more flexibility for wireless diagnosis. Designed with comprehensive functionalities including AutoVIN, FCA Gateway Access, and graphical data displays, the ArtiDiag900 BT is a reliable and convenient solution for DIYers, professional mechanics, and auto shops.
There are several earth points close to the battery, which are secured to the chassis leg inside the engine bay. These are known to corrode along with the main earth strap that’s here (see Fault 7), so make sure they are clean, secure and free of rust.
3
There’s a fusebox on the nearside of the engine bay. The instructions on its lid state to slide it back to release it, then it can be lifted out to reveal several fuses and relays underneath. Look for corrosion and water ingress.
4
The ECU is next to the battery in the engine bay. Two quick-release connectors are attached to it. Turin says that ECU problems are rare, but they have dealt with a few of them where they have had to send them away to be fixed. See Fault 5 for more details.
5
There are two Lambda sensors, one in clear view from the front of the engine bay (pre-cat) and one that can be seen lower down to the right which is a post-cat. See Fault 1 for more details on what Turin Motors finds other garages have done with these sensors.
6
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME ED337 FIAT 500 1.2.indd 81
Car Mechanics 81
February 2024
08/01/2024 11:10
Electronic Diagnostics 2012 FIAT 500 1.2
Typical FIAT 500 COMPONENTS
At the back of the engine bay, underneath the air filter housing to the nearside, there’s a throttle body (easier to see if the air filter housing is removed). This has a throttle position sensor (TPS) attached to the top of it. Turin Motors has found that if the TPS fails, a complete throttle body must be purchased instead of only the sensor.
Thanks to Turin Motors 0113 245 8787 www.turinmotors.co.uk
7
Underneath the air filter housing, there’s a bank of coil packs with short HT leads to the spark plugs. Whilst there are what appears to be individual coil packs, they are one assembly, so must be replaced as a complete unit if one or more has failed.
9
sensor that’s fitted into the 11 This camshaft cover is for the variable valve
timing (VVT) solenoid. Turin Motors says that in some cases a camshaft position sensor may be fitted nearby on the top of the cam cover (closer to the plastic timing belt covers), but...
82 Car Mechanics ED337 FIAT 500 1.2.indd 82
February 2024
Below the throttle body mentioned in the last step, there’s a bluecoloured fuel pipe routed to it and a fuel pressure sensor below it. This is shown in our photo here, below where the blue pipe ends.
8
injectors are not so easy to spot, but they are fitted 10 The alongside the spark plugs and can be accessed by removing
the air filter housing.
also seen it attached at the 12 ...we’ve back of the engine, such as on this
1242cc motor in a Mk2 Ford Ka (see April and May 2021 issues of CM). Notice the coolant temperature sensor below it, which is also on the Fiat 500’s engine.
manifold absolute pressure 13 This (MAP) sensor is fitted to the inlet
manifold and can be accessed from the offside of the engine bay. It incorporates an air temperature sensor.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 11:10
Electronic Diagnostics 2012 FIAT 500 1.2
Typical FIAT 500 FAULTS WRONG DIAGNOSIS
FAILED BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
FAULT
Turin Motors says they have seen many Fiat 500s where another garage has attempted to fix a problem, such as a fault code relating to a lean or incorrect fuel mixture, by replacing one or both of the Lambda sensors, only to discover it hasn’t helped. This often happens when the vehicle fails the MOT test due to high emissions. The cause of such problems is often an air leak, such as a split breather hose, or even failure of the catalytic converter, which opens another can of worms. A failed cat could be caused by a misfire that hasn’t raised an issue, such as a broken spark plug or seized injector, resulting in unburnt fuel contaminating the cat. The problems can often keep going.
1
FAILED THROTTLE PEDAL
FAULT
3
FAULT
There are several causes of a misfire, so it’s worthwhile starting at the spark plugs and working back, testing the HT leads, coil packs and making sure one or more of the injectors hasn’t seized. In some cases, faults won’t be raised, so it’s a process of testing where possible and elimination, but Turin Motors has found a handful of cases where the ECU is the problem, and it has had to be repaired (a used ECU with a lock set costs around £400).
5
If the brake lights, heated rear screen and wipers don’t work (or one or more of them has failed), then the wiring routed through the top of the tailgate may be the problem. The wires are quite thick and prone to turning brittle, resulting in them breaking down. In most cases, all the wires are black and difficult to trace, so it’s not an easy job to fix. Turin Motors fits an aftermarket section of loom that’s more pliable and they charge £207 to supply and fit it.
7
One of the first checks to conduct if a Fiat 500 won’t start is to look at the condition of the earth strap in the nearside front corner of the engine bay. If it looks as bad as the one shown here, or worse, attach a jump-start lead from the engine to the bodywork (making sure both points are metal and capable of conducting electricity), then try to start the engine again. If it runs this time, that earth strap is the problem. Turin Motors has lost count of how many Fiat 500s have been towed to their workshop with this problem.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME ED337 FIAT 500 1.2.indd 83
FAULT
4
FAILED STOP-START
If the vehicle battery is in good condition, but the stop-start system doesn’t work and the EML is illuminated on the dashboard, then Turin Motors has found the gear lever position sensor may have failed. This is used for the stop-start system, but also the display message on the dashboard that tells the driver when to change up or down a gear. If this is no longer displayed, then it’s likely this sensor has failed, which activates the EML and switches off the stop-start system. Whilst owners may accept no stop-start and gear selection advice, the EML will fail the MOT test.
NON-STARTING
FAULT
2
CHAFED TAILGATE WIRING
If a fault code relating to the accelerator potentiometer is raised, this often means the fly-by-wire sensor on the pedal has failed. A new throttle pedal is the answer, which costs around £60. Further issues can arise with the throttle position sensor on the throttle body, which Turin Motors says is only available as a complete assembly (throttle body and TPS).
MISFIRES
FAULT
There’s a brake light switch on the brake pedal. If this fails, the ECU thinks the brakes are permanently on, so it raises an engine management light (EML) on the dashboard when the accelerator pedal is used (braking and accelerating at the same time shouldn’t happen). Replacing the brake pedal switch usually fixes this.
FAULT
6
NO COOLING FAN
FAULT
8
With a coolant temperature sensor attached to the thermostat housing at the back of the engine (see step 12 in the previous section), the switch for the radiator cooling fan is nearby. Turin Motors has found that the resistor shown here corrodes and the fan may not run when it needs to (when the coolant gets too warm). Bridging the connections with a paper clip will help to run it and check it hasn’t failed, but the resistor needs to be replaced for it to work automatically.
Car Mechanics 83
February 2024
08/01/2024 11:11
BOOK NOW FOR LOW-PRICE ADVANCE TICKETS!
TICKETS START FROM
£25
SAVE THE UK’S
BIGGEST & BEST VW SHOW MARCH 16-17, SANDOWN PARK,
UP TO
33%
ON TICKET PRICES
ESHER, SURREY
Featuring
BOOK ONLINE FOR THE BEST TICKET PRICES!
VOLKSWORLDSHOWS.COM Headline Sponsor Terms &Conditions: Book online at www.volksworldshows.com. Advanced day tickets from £25, weekend tickets from £40. Camping: £25 per person. Children 14 and under camp for free. Booking fee applies. All attractions are subject to change. Advanced ticket booking closes Midnight Friday 15th March 2024 or earlier if availability is sold out See website for all ticket prices, offers and full terms and conditions.
ADVANCE TICKETS VolksWorld 2024 adverts_New sponsor placement 2 2.indd 2
14/12/2023 15:07
Classic Car Insurance the Goodwood Way
I T ’ S A PA S S I O N W E S H A R E
From the moment we fall in love with the joy of motoring, to owning the models we dreamt of as children, our relationship with cars shifts gear as life unfolds. No matter where you are on the journey, you can rely on Goodwood Classic Solutions to take care of quotes and policies, leaving you to enjoy the ride. Because Goodwood understands that insuring a classic car is about more than just cover; it’s about protecting your lifelong passion.
01243 913333 goodwood.com/insurance
Goodwood Classic Solutions is a trading name of Herts Insurance Consultants Ltd. Herts Insurance Consultants Ltd are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority under registration 309073
Spotlight
See
vax.co.uk
for more details
Car Mechanics reviews equipment available to help us motorists.
VAX SPOTWASH HOME CORDLESS REVIEWED BY STEVE HOLE Crikey, not sure about you but back in the seventies I remember my dad proudly spending half of his week’s wages on a big old ‘wet ‘vacuum cleaner. A massive thing. He’d grown fed up with the lounge carpet being filthy and he was too tight to buy a new one, even though one of his mates ran a carpet shop. The basic theory with what looked like an oversize vacuum cleaner with a water tank was that you soaked your carpet and hoped that it would clean whatever detritus or crud was trodden into it. His one seemed to work – sort of. It could well have been a VAX T something or other or maybe it was a Bissell. It was a long time ago and I recall that it got chucked in the back of the shed for what seemed like years. What I do remember is that when he did finally manage to get most of the gallons of water out of the carpet, it did look cleaner. However, it dried very strangely and seemed rough to the touch thereafter. It also seemed to get dirty again very quickly. It was almost as if he’d sucked all the goodness out of the wool. Anyway, scroll forward many years and the new VAX SpotWash Home Cordless. Times have changed greatly and, this little device refreshingly isn’t the size of one of those old huge TV sets and you don’t have to lug it about as it is very light. The latest technology means that this machine is simple to use and, it is really effective. The missus had bought one of the latest VAX ‘stick’ vacuum cleaners last year and it is so effective and easy to use that even 86 Car Mechanics SPOTLIGHT VAX Spot Wash.indd 86
February 2024
£199.99
I have a daily run round with it, so when Michelle, the very nice PR lady at VAX, told me about their new SpotWash and asked if I’d like to try it out, I jumped at the chance. I must confess though that I thought of my old dad when I first turned it on. I could almost hear him moaning, groaning and turning the air blue as he flooded the front room carpet! Fact is, a machine like this is perfect for us DIYers. It is small enough to reach into tight places and easy to use to clean carpets, soft trim and upholstery – including delicate Alcantara seats.
Its size makes it perfect Sure, you can buy very good vacuum cleaners that can suck up water, but I find that these can be cumbersome and, I think they can only remove water, they can’t agitate stains for example, whereas this VAX can. When you use the attachments that have scrubbing brushes on them it is doubly effective. You can also still get new generation wet vacs, which are good but when all is said and done are ideally suited to domestic use around the house. Whereas the VAX SpotWash is so much more versatile. This VAX SpotWash Home Cordless costs £199.99 (they offer various models – see https://www.vax.co.uk/carpet-cleanersand-washers/spot-washers) and it comes with four attachments enabling you to tackle most jobs. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 10/01/2024 10:48
Four attachments are included in the pack enabling you to clean in all sorts of hard-to-get-to places.
It is cordless so no pesky wires to trip over – VAX’s ONEPWR battery system is very good – and powerful. You’ll typically get about fifteen minutes running time on a full charge. Battery fits behind this cover.
The unit has two ‘tanks’ – this one is the dirty water container. It is amazing how much filth comes out of the carpet.
You’ll find a couple of indicators on the clean water tank (warm water is recommended for best results, by the way) depending on the severity and size of the area you are trying to clean. You also add the cleaning solution to this tank, too. Don’t use too much, as a little goes a long way.
The oily stain on the carpet in my garage has driven me bananas for months. The VAX got to work, and you keep going until the water runs clear. There’s something satisfying about seeing filthy water being collected.
Yuk! I couldn’t believe how much filth was in that collection tank. Not bad for a five-minute going over. The VAX did a great job and I reckon another session with a fully-charged battery would remove the stain completely. It was oil and grease that it had to remove.
I used the smallest one to shift an annoying stain on my boot carpet that I just couldn’t get rid of because I couldn’t fully get to it. The VAX managed it. You won’t fall over it and likewise when it’s in your car it shouldn’t fall over as it‘s stable and well balanced. VAX engineers have clearly thought about this one. It is also cordless. VAX’s ONEPWR battery system has plenty of shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME SPOTLIGHT VAX Spot Wash.indd 87
Little trigger (on the rear of the wand) enables you to apply a jet of warm water to the soiled area.
oomph particularly if you use the 4.0-amp battery. No wire to trip over or to get all twisted up. I hate that. Anyway, if you are looking for a new and useful device for the garage/car/house that will do a great job, work excellently – and also keep the missus happy then I’d thoroughly recommend it. Remember to shop around as you might be able to find it cheaper.
Car Mechanics 87
February 2024
10/01/2024 10:48
Our Cars Andrew Everett Special Contributor
Damaged purchase
I
t’s almost a year since I had the bodywork done on my green 1994 BMW Compact (report CM May 2023) that involved painting the complete nearside plus the bonnet and both bumpers. But I was aware that the rear sills were looking decidedly flaky. They’d been patched up before a few times and it was when I was probing underneath that my screwdriver went straight through on both sides. Whoops. Another winter would not do it any good at all, so I got it into the workshop and started cutting the rot out. That resulted in a big hole both sides but to be fair it wasn’t as bad as it could have been. The vertical sill sections are still very good, and both of the actual jacking point structures are intact – though one more miserable salty winter might have changed that. Before it came off the road, I had to find a replacement. This turned out to be a 2006 BMW 118d E87 bought from Copart. A 170,000-miler. It cost me £275 plus buyer’s fees – and was only at Sandtoft (the other side of Doncaster) – so didn’t cost much to collect.
As arrived, the 118d was looking decidedly sore, but there are the makings of a useable car there.
The damage was down the driver’s side, involving both doors and the front wing. I was lucky because my favourite breakers yard had a Sydney Blue 120d in stock and I whipped both doors off for just £40. The original wing was rusted though so I bought a black one along with a custom-made rattle can and some clear coat lacquer. 1-Series and 3-Series E90 doors are easy enough to swap over – a single 7mm for the loom connector plug on the pillar, a Torx for the check strap and then two more Torx hinge pins. I had to swap over the rear door window regulator as the 118d ES has a wind-up glass and the donor door was electric. That took about 15 minutes, if that.
In the workshop, the car was stripped of the damaged panels in not much more than an hour – they are quite well constructed.
The wing was perfect, so I rubbed it down with a Scotchbrite pad and on a warm day (remember those?), gave the wing four light coats of Sydney Blue basecoat with five minutes between each coat. Then a light coat of lacquer went on followed by a full double coat and it was left to harden for a couple of days whilst I attended to the rest of it. This amounted to renewing a broken glovebox latch and replacing the rubbish wheels with a set of Z4 alloys with almost new budget tyres, although I need to get the winters on now. While the wing was off, I removed and cleaned out the screen washer tank that lives inside the driver’s side wing. This is a horrible job to do with the wing fitted
The new doors were the right colour – I made sure they were still available before I bought the 118d though!
Fix your car with Quality Components | www.blue-print.com 88 Car Mechanics OC AE BMW 118d.indd 88
February 2024
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 07/01/2024 10:56
Our Cars Andrew Everett
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
My DIY wing paint job looks good, especially after a flat and polish. I did adjust the wing to door gap later though.
on a 1-Series and the 3-Series E90 just love to block the filter on the pump – sorting that means removing the wheel, fighting the rusty arch liner bolts and wrestling the thing out before fighting it to the death to get it back in. This one had no filter – probably previously discarded – and it’s a very good idea to delete this stupid filter and fit a febi inline filter into the washer pipe under the bonnet for easy access. I removed and cleaned up the rear screen washer tube so that works as well. The car arrived with seven months MOT and almost a full tank of diesel – that’s 50 quid on its own. Pressing the 118d into service. It got about three miles before the car dropped in power and the dash lit up like a
The oil and filter were changed using this suction pump – it’s so much easier than grovelling underneath for sump plugs.
Christmas tree. Great! I was driving to Parkside Autos in Worksop anyway to get the oil good and hot before using their suction pump to do an oil and filter change. A scan with diagnostics revealed a faulty NSR ABS sensor but it’s never just that. I pulled the driveshaft out and sure enough, the CV joint had rusted, swollen and expanded the ABS ring so that it was both out-of-shape and rubbing on the sensor. I got a new febi sensor and Parkside keep the ABS rings in stock as they are such a common fault now. The new ring was supposed to be a heat shrink fit, but the CV joint was so rusty it had to be glued on with special Würth bearing lock fluid. With that done the car was driving OK but I could tell it had a dodgy rear damper as you could feel the car corkscrewing on bends. Still, the air-conditioning worked well and a
cursory glance under the car showed that the discs were good with meaty pads and the front struts were very recent KYB replacements. The rear subframe is rusty but seems solid enough for now. The dual mass flywheel is very noisy which is a bit concerning (see pages 26-30). I ordered a pair of rear dampers from eBay at £44 the pair delivered and fitted them in about an hour. The top mounts are accessed easily with the boot side trims pulled back and the lower mount is a pin through a rubber mount, bolted to the lower wishbone. The offside rear damper was a good recent replacement but the passenger side unit was absolutely finished. With a new pair fitted the car drove much better. Even so, the fuel economy of 42mpg average is a bit disappointing but I noticed that the heater doesn’t get that hot – time for a new pair of thermostats then. More next time!
Here’s the driveshaft with a new ABS trigger ring fitted to the outer CV joint – it had to be glued on with Würth bearing lock and seal.
A nice new febi ABS sensor was fitted (easy job) and with that, the ABS and DSC problems are cured – for now.
Online Cataloge | partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME OC AE BMW 118d.indd 89
Car Mechanics 89
February 2024
07/01/2024 10:56
Our Cars Peter Clayton Special Contributor
Crosscountry prep
I
t was that time of year already with a family visit ‘down south’ to Shropshire looming. While the Clayton household’s wee 2013 Skoda Fabia 1.2 hatchback wouldn’t bat an eyelid at the 300-mile journey from Scotland, my stiff back and legs would have something to say, owing to the rather uncomfortable driving position this otherwise very good little runabout has to offer. After the hours spent getting my 2006 BMW 130i M Sport into service, it only seemed right to designate the Beemer with its superior comfort to the task! Some final jobs had to be completed first, however.
Headlamps akimbo A few issues back I had replaced a defective driver’s side headlamp with a good second-hand replacement. Thinking no more of it until driving at dusk I could tell the aim was much higher than the left unit. While I didn’t get the ‘flashing of shame’ from oncoming drivers it was worth adjusting it before the trip. Luckily, as the headlamps are basic halogen variants, all that was involved was to ensure the interior adjustment
dial is set to zero, and then the plastic height adjustment screw on the headlamp can be turned until the desired height is set. As I knew the left lamp passed the MOT only a few months prior, I managed to correct the height of the right headlamp to match. Rudimentary, but a test drive at night revealed that the pattern was where I’d expect.
Steering fluid change This particular generation BMW was one of the last to have a mechanicallydriven power steering pump, and while the automotive press will have you believe that it allowed for a more direct and responsive feel through the wheel compared to its ‘inferior’ electric counterpart, it doesn’t make it immune to normal servicing requirements. At 140,000 miles not only was the fluid brown but the pump itself was whining (a little like me every time it came to low-speed parking). I wasn’t hoping for
On a level driveway I used a mark on a straight edge to compare headlamp aim height.
much, but a fluid change was all that was needed to silence the noise! After sucking up the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster I disconnected it and one of the power steering lines which was attached to the far left of the engine bay. A little fiddly to push the tab in and then to disconnect, but old fluid then began to flow into a container I held underneath. With the front end raised off the ground I gave the steering several full turns until most of the fluid was drained. Before filling back up with the recommended green CHF11S, I fitted a brand-new oil reservoir from febi. Over time the reservoirs can collect a lot of grime, and many have filters built in that cannot be removed. Given the condition of the old fluid it was a good investment to keep the system as clean as possible by renewing it. With everything bolted back up, it was just a series of topups and lock-to-lock turns, followed by a final engine-on bleed to get the pump moving the fluid around the system.
Oil and filter change
The PAS fluid reservoir is quite straightforward to unbolt and detach from the system. Those hydraulic lines have very stiff connectors however!
Having already completed an oil change last year, I wanted to beat my time this year by implementing some time-saving strategies. Last year for example, I had to remove the entire undertray to access the sump because the access flap had so much ingrained dirt the locking tab refused to move! This year it was clean, and a good spray of silicone ensured I could access the sump bolt quickly. So far, so good… Upon draining the oil this year, I upgraded to an all-in-one drain pan and storage container. The idea being you undo a plug in the side, throw it under the sump, it collects the oil, plug back in
More than 48,000 different spare parts in OE matching quality 90 Car Mechanics
February 2024
OC PC 130i cross country prep.indd 90
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 06/01/2024 21:39
Our Cars Peter Clayton Draining was somewhat successful with the all-in-one drain pan container but a crack in the cap left a right mess.
and you’re done. You can do two or three services this way before then going to your local recycling centre, opening the main cap and upending the container into the ‘used oil’ tanks at the centre, ready for reuse. Unfortunately, the brittle plastic of the container’s main cap had cracked and surreptitiously began leaking oil on the only uncovered part of my monobloc driveway. After a Benny Hill-esque run around the garage looking for spare canisters, the oil had finally been drained and captured in various forms! The filter replacement was just a case of using a 16-flute cup tool to grab the plastic cap and allow it to be screwed off. A febi oil filter comes as a kit which replaces not only the O-ring of the screw cap, but also the smaller O-ring of the internal filter piece that helps prevent the oil from draining down. It even comes with the copper crush washer for the sump – very handy! With containers of febi 5W-30 Long Life oil ready to dispense, another tool I thought would save time was an oil filling funnel that attaches directly to the valve cover. It is essentially an oil cap with a hole in the middle and a big funnel
so you can pour oil in quite liberally and wait for it to drain down – the faster, mess-free alternative to bending over the engine bay for five minutes at a time (did I mention my bad back?). Well, the reality became apparent: when screwing on the funnel the metal locking section parted ways and dropped inside the engine. Poking around with a grabber I could just about grip the thing which was sprawled over a valve spring. Back to the oldfashioned way to finish things off, then! At least last year I measured the drained oil to be exactly 6.5 litres, so I knew the precise amount of fresh stuff to pour in saving me the electronic dipstick game. On this BMW not only do you not have a physical dipstick whatsoever, the electronic one only begins functioning after the oil has warmed up and you have driven it on a level surface for a good few miles. I was pleased to see on first go the digital read-out suggested it was on the ‘full’ mark.
Wiper blades I will never forget the words of my driving instructor when it came to preparing a car for a long journey: just
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
A fluted tool sat above the filter housing to undo the cap.
remember POWER. This referred to a basic checklist to run through: Petrol, Oil, Water, Electrics and Rubber. The last one categorises not only the tyres (which I had just replaced) but also the wiper blades. The original Bosch ones were beginning to age; the sea lion noises they were making were rather off-putting too! It was a bit of a revelation to me that Blue Print actually provide OE quality replacements, so I simply searched for my make and model in bilstein parts catalogue (partsfinder.bilsteingroup. com) and the correct size wipers were presented to me. A lovely feature of these wipers are the instructions printed on the back of the box, taking some of the embarrassment away from what should be (but never is) a simple task. As the blade is designed to be accepted by a range of vehicles, the wipers come as a kit that may not all get used. I actually found the how-to videos, linked from the box, the best way to figure out how they fit together. Once clicked in place, I was blessed with silence once more – something I was grateful for considering the rain that battered us on the way back to Scotland!
Instructions provided on the Blue Print box, and the wipers clicked into the arms.
Trust my luck – oil funnel tool broke off inside the valve cover!
Searching becomes finding!
Register for free...partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME OC PC 130i cross country prep.indd 91
Car Mechanics 91
February 2024
06/01/2024 21:39
BOOKAZINE SERIES! The publishers of Car Mechanics magazine have produced these quarterly ‘yellow’ bookazine series titles, providing top-level advice to anyone interested in vehicle maintenance. Professional top tips on engine work, transmission rebuilds, working on bodywork and electronic diagnostics, Car Mechanics Expert aims to provide detailed hints and tips to enable enthusiasts to keep their cars on the road for longer and for less money. The series is also intended as a useful introduction for anyone considering entering the motor trade and is sure to be a highly useful reference guide for many years to come. Solving common problems on
Demystifying
MODERN Exterior & interior VEHICLE EXPERT DIAGNOSTICS EXPERT CAR CARE EXPERT ENGINES STOP RUST FROM TAKING A HOLD
UNDERBODY RUSTPROOFING
TRACING FAULTS ACCURATELY
MULTIMETER MASTERCLASS
STUDYING THE ART OF WELDING
DEALING WITH DENTS
AUTOMOTIVE WIRING EXPLAINED
USING OSCILLOSCOPES
MAKE PATCHES & REPAIR PANELS
ALLOY WHEEL REFURBISHMENT
TROUBLESHOOTING ECUs
WORKING WITH SCAN TOOLS
INTERPRETING FAULT CODES
ESSENTIAL 12V BATTERY CARE
LEARN NEW SKILLS
REAR SILL & WHEELARCH REPAIRS
UPHOLSTERY MADE GOOD
AFFORDABLE DIY PAINTING OPTIONS
DETAILING: INSIDE & OUT
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES SOLVING COMMON PROBLEMS ON MODERN ENGINES
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
DIY DIAGNOSTICS INDEPTH CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES EXTERIOR & INTERIOR CAR CARE
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES DEMYSTIFYING VEHICLE DIAGNOSTICS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTICS MADE EASY
ALLOY WHEEL REFURB
LEARN NEW SKILLS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
UNDERSTANDING ENGINE OIL
OVERHAULING CRANKSHAFTS
CHANGING TIMING BELTS & CHAINS
REBUILDING STARTER MOTORS
EXPLORING VARIABLE VALVE TIMING
LOOKING AFTER FUEL INJECTORS
FRONTEND AUXILIARY DRIVE SYSTEMS
REMOVING STUCK INJECTORS
RECONDITIONING ALTERNATORS
DECOKING CLOGGED ENGINES
LEARN NEW SKILLS
RENEWING TIMING BELTS & CHAINS CHOOSE THE CORRECT OIL FOR YOUR ENGINE
ENGINE ECU REPAIRS
Cover KELSEY.indd 1
USING MULTIMETERS
PROTECT FROM RUST
VITAL BATTERY CARE 1.indd 1
DEMYSTIFYING VEHICLE DIAGNOSTICS
DIY PAINT RENOVATION
UPHOLSTERY FIXES
1.indd14:48 1 07/12/2021
EXTERIOR & INTERIOR CAR CARE
11/06/2021 12:34
£8.99
ALTERNATOR REPAIRS
FUEL INJECTION FIXES
SOLVING COMMON PROBLEMS ON MODERN ENGINES
15/09/2021 12:02
Working on
EXPERT
EMISSION SYSTEMS Overhauling EXPERT
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS EGR VALVE INVESTIGATION
FIXING EXHAUST SYSTEMS
FLUSHING & BEYOND
WET DPF & SCR EMISSIONS SYSTEMS
FUEL & OIL ADDITIVES
CATALYTIC CONVERTER & DPF REPAIRS
EXPLORING ALTERNATIVE FUELS
STOPSTART TECHNOLOGY
LEARN NEW SKILLS
LEARN NEW SKILLS
EXPERT
LEARN NEW SKILLS
RUSTPROOFING and CURING SURFACE RUST
Get to grips with
TRANSMISSIONS BODYWORK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES GET TO GRIPS WITH BODYWORK
2.7 TDV6 CATALYTIC CONVERTER FIX
DEMYSTIFYING STOPSTART TECH
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES OVERHAULING TRANSMISSIONS
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES WORKING ON EMISSION SYSTEMS
EMISSIONS EDUCATION
CLUTCHES & DUAL MASS FLYWHEELS
BECOME A GEARBOX GURU
FULLY AUTOMATIC GEARBOXES
SINGLE & TWIN CLUTCH AUTOMATED MANUALS DEMYSTIFIED
UNDERSTANDING CLUTCHES & DMFs
REPAIRING DIRECT SHIFT GEARBOXES DSG & MECHATRONIC UNITS
OVERHAULING DRIVESHAFTS ALLWHEELDRIVE SYSTEMS
MANUAL GEARBOX INSPECTION & REBUILD
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
A GUIDE TO RUSTPROOFING
REPAIRING PLASTIC BUMPERS
PAINT CORRECTION & PROTECTION
SORTING PANEL DENTS
BUDGET PAINT JOBS
RESTORING CHIPS & SCRATCHES
DIY SILL & PAINT REFURBISHMENT
BUYING SALVAGE VEHICLES
TACKLE BUDGET PAINT JOBS
PLASTIC BUMPER REPAIRS
JAGUAR XF ‘CAT S’ REPAIR
DIY SILL REFURBISHMENT
AUTOMATED MANUALS
DSG MECHATRONICS
EGR VALVE STUDY 1.indd 1
WET DPF SYSTEMS
EXHAUST FIXING
£8.99
WORKING ON EMISSION SYSTEMS 92 Car Mechanics
CM promo Bookazines DPS.indd 92
February 2024
1.indd 1 13/06/2022 13:21
£8.99
FULLY AUTOMATIC
OVERHAULING TRANSMISSIONS
12/09/2022 12:36 1.indd 1
£8.99
GET TO GRIPS WITH BODYWORK
11/12/2022 11:21
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 08/01/2024 10:53
EXPERT
Renewing NEW TIMING BELTS
Overhauling
Making repairs to
STEERING & SUSPENSION
EXPERT
BRAKING SYSTEMS
EXPERT
& CHAINS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR DIY MECHANICS
UNDERSTANDING VEHICLE SUSPENSION
STEERING BOX STRIP & REBUILD
DIY BRAKE MAINTENANCE
HANDBRAKE REPAIRS
GENERAL GUIDE TO WORKING ON TIMING BELTS & CHAINS
STEERING SYSTEM FAULTS
WORKING ON AIR SUSPENSION
SERVICING DISCS/PADS & DRUMS
ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM FAULTS
UNDERSTANDING VARIABLE VALVE TIMING
DIY SPRING & DAMPER REPLACEMENT
RUBBERTOMETAL BUSH RENEWAL
MAINTAINING BRAKE HYDRAULICS
BRAKE UPGRADES
STEPBYSTEP TIMING BELT & CHAIN SWAPS ON POPULAR MODELS:
FAULTFINDING PAS SYSTEMS
TOP STRUT MOUNTS VW BEETLE
OVERHAULING HYDRAULIC CALIPERS
BMW X5 BRAKE OVERHAUL
STEERING RACK REPAIRS
JAGUAR AIR SUSPENSION PUMP SWAP
BRAKING TASKS BEST PRACTICE TIPS
FLUID BLEEDERS & TESTERS REVIEWED
AUDI TT FORD MONDEO TDCi PEUGEOT 206 & 207
CHRYSLER PT CRUISER HYUNDAI COUPE RENAULT CLIO
STEERING SYSTEM FAULTS
DIY BRAKE MAINTENANCE
FIXING COMMON TIMING BELTS
ISSUE 10
ISSUE 9
RUBBER BUSHES
AIR SUSPENSION
TOP STRUT MOUNTS
SERVICING DRUMS
£9.99
MAKING REPAIRS TO STEERING & SUSPENSION
001.indd 1
21/06/2023 13:18
ANTILOCK BRAKES
WORKING ON TIMING CHAINS TIMING BELT TECHNIQUES
VARIABLE VALVE TIMING
ISSUE 11
BRAKE UPGRADES £9.99
OVERHAULING BRAKING SYSTEMS
FORD Ka Mk2 JAGUAR XF SUZUKI JIMNY
LEARN NEW SKILLS
LEARN NEW SKILLS
LEARN NEW SKILLS
FIAT PUNTO JAGUAR AJ V8 ROVER KV6
£9.99
RENEWING TIMING BELTS & CHAINS
ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTICS REPRINTS Volumes 1and 2
Learn new skills VOLUME
2 EL ELECTRONIC EC TR O N IC Vol. 1 contains EXPERT DIA GNOSTICS EXPERT DIAGNOSTICS 17 models from BMW VOLUME
1
BMW 318i E90 CITROËN C3 1.6
MAZDA2 1.5 MERCEDESBENZ ML280 NISSAN MICRA C+C 1.6
CDi
PEUGEOT 407 1.6 HDi RENAULT CLIO 1.2 16v
TOYOTA COROLLA 1.6 VAUXHALL TIGRA B 1.4 VOLKSWAGEN EOS 1.4 TSI VOLKSWAGEN FOX 1.2 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 2.0 VOLVO S40 2.0 BIFUEL
FSI
£8.99
LEARN NEW SKILLS
VOLUME 2
STICS VOLUME 1
SKODA OCTAVIA 1.9 TDI PD smart fortwo 599cc
ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTICS
SERIES ELECTRONIC DIAGNO
CITROËN C5 2.2 HDi HONDA ACCORD 2.0 i-VTEC
E90 to Volvo S40 Vol. 2 contains 18 models from Audi A4 to VW Golf MkV
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT
A compilation of ENG INE MANAGE MENT GUIDES from Car Mechanics magazine
A compilation of ENG INE MA GU IDES from Car Mechan NAG EM ENT ics magazine AUDI A4 2.0 TDI
BMW 1SERIES 2.0D CITROËN C4 PICASSO 1.6
HDi
FIAT 500L 1.6 MULTIJET FORD FIESTA 1.0 ECOBO
OST
FORD GRAND C-MAX 2.0 TDCi FORD TRANSIT 2.2 TDCi HONDA CRV 2.2 i-CTDi HONDA JAZZ 1.4 i-DSI JAGUAR STYPE 3.0 NISSAN QASHQAI 1.5 dCi PEUGEOT 206 1.9D PORSCHE BOXSTER 2.7 RENAULT MEGANE II 1.4
ISSUE 8
SEAT IBIZA 1.4 SKODA OCTAVIA 2.0 TDI VAUXHALL ASTRA H 1.6 Turbo VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1.6 FSI
£9.99
1.indd 1 12/03/2023 21:03
Buy a Print SINGLE ISSUE at £9.99 each or a Digital SINGLE ISSUE at £8.99 each Or purchase a subscription at £35.96 per annum (4 x bookazines) Shop today: visit: shop.kelsey.co.uk/single-issue/car-mechanics-expert-magazine Or call: 01959 543747 Lines open Monday-Friday 8.30am-5.30pm. Calls are charged at your standard network rate Full terms and conditions can be found at shop.kelsey.co.uk/terms Offer of £9.99 applies to UK. Overseas prices also available.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME CM promo Bookazines DPS.indd 93
Car Mechanics 93
February 2024
08/01/2024 10:53
CLEVELAND Ron Payne & Son, Baltic Street, Hartlepool TS25 1PS. Tel: 01429 273646.
CORNWALL Dale Brett Autos, Gilston Road, Saltash, Cornwall PL12 6TW. Tel: 01752 849448. Family owned and run. 10/10 everytime. Ferris Garage Ltd, Truro TR3 6RE. Tel: 01872 862218. M Clark Motors, Polperro Road, West Looe PL13 2QP. Tel: 01503 265511. MOTs, servicing, welding, tracking, bodywork, exhausts, batteries.
CUMBRIA Cleator Moor Auto & Body Repairs Ltd, Ennerdale Road, Cleator Moor, Cumbria, CA25 5LD. Tel: 01946 811800. Service is brilliant and the mechanics very knowledgeable.
This listing is published every THREE months and will next appear in our May 2024 issue. We welcome further nominations (from satisfied customers only please, no self-nominations) of businesses to be included, so that we can make this listing as useful as possible to readers throughout Britain and Ireland. Please write to: Car Mechanics Good Garage Guide, Kelsey Media, The Granary, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL. Or email: martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk
AVON Lockleaze Service Station, Lockleaze Road, Bristol BS7 9RU.
BERKSHIRE Mike Farina Auto Services, 21 Sedgewell Road, Sonning Common, nr Reading, Berks RG4 9TA. Tel: 0118 972 4036. Servicing, repairs.
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE Stokenchurch Service Centre, Wycombe Rd, Stokenchurch, Bucks HP14 3RR. Tel: 01494 483355. Servicing, repairs, tuning, MOTs, welding, exhausts, batteries. M D Autocare, 54/55 Rabans Close, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire HP19 8RS. www.md-autocare.co.uk
CAMBRIDGESHIRE D.L.M. Autos, 63a Orchard Road, Great Shelford, Cambs CB22 5AA. MOTs, servicing/repairs on modern & older cars.
Riverside Garage, Holmrook, Cumbria CA19 1UH. Tel: 01946 724228. Friendly helpful and professional service. Wheatsheaf Garage, Low Road, Brigham, Cockermouth CA13 0XH. Tel: 01900 825946. Excellent service. Classics welcome, especially Minor & MGB. www.wheatsheafgarage.com
DERBYSHIRE The Service Garage Ltd, Engineering Services, 51 Derby Road, Borrowash, Derby DE72 3HA. Tel: 01332 663982 or 677131. Walgrove Garage Ltd, Walgrove Road, Brampton, Chesterfield, Derbyshire S40 2DS. Tel: 01246 278181. French & VAG specialists. MOTs, tyres and welding. Walkers Motors Servicing & Repairs. 9 Platt Street, Padfield, Glossop SK13 1EB.
DEVON Racecourse Garage, Babbage Road, Totnes Industrial Estate, Totnes, Devon TQ9 5JA. Tel: 01803 862297. Offers excellent service and competitive rates. Tuned Auto Repairs, Newcourt Barton, Clyst Road, Topsham, Exeter EX3 0DB. Excellent customer service at cheap rates.
DURHAM Skipbridge Garage, Hurworth Moor, Darlington, County Durham DL2 1QL. Tel: 01325 720498.
ESSEX
G Nice and Sons Ltd, 3 Chapel Street, Waterbeach, Cambs CB25 9HR. Tel: 01223 860241. Isuzu specialist, MOT testing, aircon specialists.
Bennetts BMW Specialists, Unit 1, Haltgate House, Hullbridge Road, South Woodham Ferrers, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 5NG. Tel: 01245 328601, www.bennettsbmw.co.uk BMW specialists, also all-makes repairs.
Kings of Witcham, The Slade, Witcham, nr Ely, Cambs CB6 2LA. Tel: 01353 778403, email: info@kingsofwitcham.co.uk. Independent Volvo specialist since 1996.
The Bodyshop, 31-37 Tomswood Hill, Barkingside, Essex IG6 2HL. Tel: 020 8500 9228 bodyshop.uk.com
Saabmaster Garage Services, Unit 7, Robert Davies Court, Nuffield Road, Cambridge CB4 1TP. Tel: 01223 420055. Independent Saab specialists.
D & A Autos, Unit 1A, Pools Lane, Highwood, Chelmsford, Essex CM1 3QL. Tel: 01245 248317.
Swift Car Care, 145-147 St Pauls Road, Peterborough. Tel: 01733 897080. VW Technics, Unit 10, Highgate Farm, Over Road, Willingham, Cambridge CB24 5EU. vwspecialistcambridge.co.uk
CHESHIRE Andy Stockton Autocare Ltd, Unit 26, Heron Business Park, Tan House Lane, Widnes WA8 0SW. Tel: 0151 420 2838. asautocare.co.uk Vauxhall specialist.
94 Car Mechanics GGG FEBRUARY 2024.indd 94
Frank Shaikley and Sons, Hawkins Road, The Hythe, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY. Tel: 01206 796657. Halfway Garage, behind Frinton Gate Motors, Colchester Road, Tendring, Essex CO16 9AA. Tel: 01255 831285. Service, repairs, MOTs incl motorbikes. Motorvation 2000, Unit 13 Stondon Road, Hallsford Bridge Industrial Estate, Ongar, Essex CM5 9RB. Tel: 01277 364241. Engine rebuilds, MOT, servicing, electrics.
February 2024
Oakdene Autos, Daniels Farm, Wash Road, Laindon, Essex SS15 4AZ. Tel: 01268 280909. www.oakdeneautos.co.uk Bodywork, welding, MOT & servicing work. Pristine Bodyworks/RR Automotive, Scaldhurst Farm, Larkhill Road, Ashington, Essex SS4 3RU. Tel: 01702 257177. Family run – one brother handles mechanical work, the other bodywork.
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
LINCOLNSHIRE Corten Miller Performance Centre, Friskney Eaudykes, Skegness, Lincs. Very knowledgeable highly-skilled staff. Derek Chapman Motor Services, 13 High Street, Alford, Lincolnshire. Tel: 01507 462571. An excellent and friendly garage and bodyshop. G Harniess (Louth) Ltd, Bolingbroke Road, Fairfield Industrial Estate, Louth LN11 0WA. Tel: 01507 603341. gharniess-louth.co.uk
Stonehouse Exhaust, Unit 1, Orchard Place, Stonehouse, Gloucestershire. Tel: 01453 822971. Excellent garage. Good old-fashioned service!
HAMPSHIRE
Huttoft Service Station, Mumby Road, Huttoft, Lincs LN13 9RF. Tel: 01507 490283. Village garage with all usual repair facilities plus LPG stockists.
Keylink Systems Ltd, 15/16 The Calvert Centre, Woodmancott, Winchester SO21 3BN. Tel: 01256 379150. Mercedes/BMW specialists but will take care of anything.
W H Brand and Son, Whaplode Drove, nr Spalding, Lincs. Tel: 01406 330265. Daewoo/Chevrolet franchise and independent MG Rover specialists.
SJB Autotech, Unit 3, Beresford Centre, Wade Road, Baskingstoke RG24 8FA. Tel: 01256 477 411. sjbautotech.co.uk Jim, the owner, is extremely experienced with the VAG range. Mendem Motors Ltd, Unit 4, Stacey Industrial Park, Silchester Road, Tadley RG26 3PY. Tel: 0118 970 2222. mendemmotors.co.uk Everything from aircon to wheel alignment. Wes & Co, Shootash Garage, Salisbury Road, Romsey, Hants SO51 6GA. Tel: 01794 515003. MOT station, servicing.
LONDON (GREATER) Barnet Service & Tuning Centre, 1 Motor Way, Margaret Road, New Barnet, Herts EN4 8DW. Tel: 020 8441 6667. All usual garage services plus MOT testing. www.scimitarmotorservices.co.uk
MANCHESTER (GREATER)
DC Rogers Auto Repairs, Unit 11, Beech Business Park, Tillington Road, Hereford HR4 9QJ. Tel: 01432 264200.
Phoenix Close Honda, Unit 208 Phoenix Close Industrial Estate, Heywood OL10 2JG. Tel: 01706 366500. pchondaspecialists.co.uk Proprietor Chris assisted by Phil are both Honda trained. Mechanical & diagnostic work. Wouldn’t take our CR-V anywhere else.
HERTFORDSHIRE
MERSEYSIDE
Broxbourne MOT and Motorist, Unit 1, Bridge Works, Nazing New Road, Broxbourne, Herts EN10 6SG.
Village Auto Repairs, 6a Greenes Road, Whiston, Prescot, Merseyside L35 3RF. Tel: 0151 426 0999. Servicing and repair of cars & light commercials. Also a Class 4 MOT testing.
HEREFORDSHIRE
KENT Bexley Lane Garage, 33-47 Bexley Lane, Crayford DA1 4DD. Tel: 01322 527279 bexleylanegarage.co.uk Lockheed Authorised Brake Safety Centre, MOTs, servicing. Chelsfield Motor Works, Court Lodge Farm, Warren Road, Orpington BR6 6ER. Tel: 01689 890689. Mechanical repairs, MOTs, bodywork, aircon, diagnostics. Hartley Garage Services Ltd, Ash Road, Longfield DA3 8EL. Tel: 01474 706501. All usual garage services plus MOTs/aircon. Ivydene Garage Ltd, Unit 99, Ellingham Way, Ellingham Ind. Est., Ashford TN23 6LZ. Tel: 01233 636081. Mechanical repairs, servicing all makes, MOTs, aircon, Bosch diagnostics.
LANCASHIRE Mick’s Garage, Unit 2A Old Station Yard, Kirkby Lonsdale LA6 2HP. Tel: 01524 237785. http://micksgarage.net/ Proprietor Mick Gudgeon is a time-served MB tech but also works on all other makes. MOT station up to Class 7 with a 6.5m bay.
LEICESTERSHIRE & RUTLAND Broad Street Garage, The Old Forge, Brook St, Enderby, Leicester LE19 4ND. Tel: 0116 286 1416. L&H Exhausts MOT & Service Centre, 4 Charlotte Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 1NA. Tel: 01664 562684. lhexhaustsmotcentre.co.uk Very good independent garage. Tarsel Motors Ltd, 173 Church Hill Road, Thurmaston, Leicester LE4 8DH. Tel: 0116 693333. J. T. Tilley and Son, 3 Lutterworth Road, Burbage, Hinckley, Leics LE10 2DJ. Tel: 01455 239303.
NORFOLK Herring and Palmer, Hewett Yard, Hall Road, Norwich. Tel: 01603 666585. BMW specialists, all makes catered for. Threeways Garage, Watton Road, Shipham, Norfolk IP25 7PE. Tel: 01362 820430. Independent Citroën specialist, also repairs/services other makes. MOTs. S & R Motors, Sunset Lodge Industrial Units, St. Germans, Kings Lynn. Tel: 01553 617696 or 07788 268121. Run by Steve Smith. Service is excellent. Stone Chips Ltd, 12 Garden Street, Norwich NR1 1QU. Minor paintwork repairs, bumpers, etc. Valeting, interior repairs, alloy refurbishment.
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE Rob Price Automotive Services, 146 Northampton Road, Broughton, Kettering, Northants NN14 1NS. Tel: 01536 790901.
NORTHUMBERLAND JT Auto Services, The Old Works, Red Row, Morpeth, Northumberland NE61 5AU. Tel: 01670 761711. Repairs, servicing.
NOTTS PVS (Professional Vehicle Servicing), Glaisdale Drive, Nottingham NG8 4GY. Tel: 0115 928 3333. Repairs, servicing, reasonable prices, helpful staff. Wright Engineering Co Ltd, 332 Colwick Road, Nottingham NG2 4BG. Tel: 0115 950 2284. wright-engineers.co.uk Automotive services including milling, turning, grinding, and fabricating.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 09/01/2024 15:29
OXFORDSHIRE
SUSSEX
Oxford Autogas, Tiddington Garage, London Road, Milton Common/ Tiddington, Oxon OX9 2NU. Tel: 01844 279588. oxfordautogas.com LPG installation and servicing. MOT, service and repairs.
Coles Automotive, Browns Meadow, Edburton Road, Edburton, Henfield, West Sussex BN5 9LN. Tel: 01273 857520. colesautomotive.co.uk Land Rover ralliers.
SHROPSHIRE
Rew Auto Services, Unit 13, Eastmead Industrial Estate, Lavant, Chichester, West Sussex PO18 0DB. Tel: 01243 839520.
Bridgnorth Motor Services, Station Lane, Hollybush Road, Bridgnorth, Shropshire WV16 5DP. Tel: 01746 762562 or 07708 167346. Mark is an ex-Ford mechanic and seems very experienced.
Cradle Hill Motors, Unit 16, Cradle Hill Ind Est, Seaford, East Sussex. Tel: 01323 890737.
Vasstechnik, Unit 2, Potts Marsh Est., Eastbourne Road, Westham, Pevensey, East Sussex BN24 5NH. Tel: 01323 438754. vasstechnik.co.uk Servicing/repairs to VAG and MG/Rover.
SOMERSET
SURREY
Hatley Garage, 86 Kewstoke Road, Kewstoke, Weston-super-Mare, North Somerset BS22 9YH. Tel: 01934 622495. Specialising in classic Mini’s.
MCM, Station Lane, Milford, Surrey GU8 5AD. Tel: 01483 424815. VW/Audi, BMW, Mercedes – all quality car specialists.
N S Autos, Prowles Cross, Yeovil, Somerset, BA22 9RG. Tel: 01935 872891. nsautos.co.uk
STAFFORDSHIRE Midland VW, 21 Conduit Road, Norton Canes, Cannock, Staffs WS11 9TJ. Tel: 01543 495700, midlandvw.com Snows Garage (Hanley) Ltd, 706 Leek Road, Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffs ST1 4NP. Tel: 01782 215544. Squire Automotive, Unit 2A Zone 2 Ring Road, Burntwood Business Park, Burntwood, Staffs WS7 3JQ. Tel: 01543 672247. squireautomotive.co.uk
SUFFOLK Barrett-Lee Ltd, 4 Byford Road, Sudbury, Suffolk CO10 2YG. Tel: 01787 468900. DN Autos Mobile Mechanic, based Saxmundham, Suffolk – but travels. Tel: 07895 078447. Trustworthy bloke, reasonable prices. My family’s go-to mechanic.
Elmwood Vehicles Ltd, 278 Kingston Road, Ewell, Surrey KT19 0SH. Tel: 0208 394 2847 carservicerepairssurrey.co.uk
Melksham CarCare Centre, Bath Road, Melksham SN12 8DB. Tel: 01225 703014.
WORCESTERSHIRE
SCOTLAND
RK Services, Lower Leys, Evesham, Worcestershire WR11 3AB. Tel: 01386 48935. rkservices.com
YORKSHIRE Hargreaves Jeep Specialists and MOT Centre, Bradford Road, Sandbeds, Keighley, West Yorks BD20 5LY. Tel: 01274 569262. hargreavesgarage.co.uk Horbury Garage, 35 Westfield Rd, Horbury, Wakefield WF4 6HS. Tel: 01924 265283. Pure Car Mechanics, Westgate Carr Business Park, Westgate Carr Road, Pickering, North Yorkshire YO18 8LX. Tel: 01751 475794. purecarmechanics.co.uk The garage is female-friendly. RTN Auto Services, 11 Waggon’s Way, Stainforth, Doncaster, South Yorks. Tel: 01302 351167. Peugeot/Citroën specialist.
TYNE & WEAR
W Sykes & Son Ltd, Lower Wortley, Leeds LS12 6AB. Tel: 0113 263 9388. MOTs, servicing and repairs. Small family garage.
Gavin Reed Ltd, Sunniside Garage, Front Street, Sunniside, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne NE16 5EE. Tel: 0191 488 7298.
Victoria Motors, Victoria Street, Stocksbridge, Sheffield S36 1GY. victoria-motors-stocksbridge.co.uk
Scotts Bank Motor Services, Scotts Bank, Southwick, Sunderland. Tel: 0191 549 7500. Volvo-trained.
Yorkshire Vehicles 24-7, Unit 5 Sunshine Mills, Leeds LS12 3HT. Tel: 0113 318 5259. yorkshirevehicles24-7.co.uk
WEST MIDLANDS
NORTHERN IRELAND
Cottage Garage, Brandon Way, West Bromwich B70 9PW. Tel: 0121 525 4413.
T.F. Cars (Tommy Fegan), Motor Engineers, 35-39 Parkmount Road, Antrim Rd, Belfast BT15 4EQ. Tel: 028 9037 1868. A father and son outfit, doing mechanical and MOT work at reasonable rates.
GW Motors, 172 Sockfield Road, Acocks Green, Birmingham B27 6AU. Tel: 0121 706 2327 or 0121 706 4770. Family-owned and “friendly, helpful and no bullshit.”
WILTSHIRE FJ Chalke Ltd, Talbot Garage, Mere, near Warminster Wiltshire BA12 6HE, Tel: 01747 860244 www.fjchalke.co.uk. Kia agent, before that Austin then Rover.
McKay Motor Works, 616a Antrim Road, Newtownabbey BT36 4RF. Tel: 07787 806597. Toyota Master Technician.
Greenend Motors, 20 Sunnybank Terrace, Lower London Road, Edinburgh EH7 5TW. Tel: 0131 661 4825. Lewiston Garage, J A Menzies & Sons Ltd., Lewiston, Drumnadrochit, Inverness IV63 6UL. Tel: 01456 450212. Good village garage, MOTs. Excellent and helpful. Lothian Motors, 68 Lothian Street, Bonnyrigg, Midlothian EH19 3AQ. Tel: 0131 663 1076. Family-run, electronic and aircon repairs, servicing and MOT. Sutherland Arms Garage, Victoria Road, Brora, Sutherland KW9 6QN. Tel: 01408 621721. Vauxhall specialist, MOTs, aircon and servicing to all makes. The Garage (Wishaw) Ltd, 70A Elison Court, Motherwell, Scotland ML1 2DN. Tel: 01698 265303. Japanese performance specialist, MOTs. Excellent diagnostics.
WALES MB Motors, Cowbridge Road, Brynsadler, Pontyclun, Mid Glamorgan CF72 9BT. Tel: 01443 229522. The Olde Pounde Garage, Penperlleni near Pontypool. Tel: 01873 880312. MOTs, plus general repairs/maintenance. Three Arches Services Ltd, Heathwood Road, Cardiff CF14 4HT. Tel: 02920 752101. AJ Autos, 2a Gaskell Street, Newport, Gwent NP19 0GH. Tel: 01633 250513.
IRELAND Harkin’s Garage, Gleneely, nr Carndonagh, Co Donegal, Ireland.
This listing is provided as a reader service and based on recommendations and information supplied by Car Mechanics readers. We have not ourselves visited, used or in any way tested the companies listed, and as always, potential customers must make their own enquiries and decisions. While every care has been taken in the compilation of this list, Car Mechanics and Kelsey Media cannot accept responsibility for the actions of any of the companies listed here, nor can we become involved in any disputes between readers and companies on this list, though reports – good and bad – are always welcome. We would also appreciate being told if readers discover any garages listed here are no longer trading so we can verify this and, if appropriate, remove their entry.
NEXT MONTH
HYBRIDS Wheel Bearing What are they? Low and high voltage types described
Ford Focus Mk2 front bearing swap ● LOOKING AT ENGINE OILS ● DIY DSG GEARBOX SERVICE ● FITTING A FLEXIPIPE TO A VAUXHALL ● BUYING & OWNING AN ALFA GIULIA ● SERVICING A SUZUKI SWIFT 1.3 ● CITROËN C5 2.0 HDi DIAGNOSTICS
Safety considerations Mild Hybrid repair and maintenance overview Lexus high voltage repair detailed
MARCH 2024 issue out FEBRUARY 16th
To ensure you receive every issue of Car Mechanics, place an order with your local newsagent. Once setup, your copy will be held for you to collect, saving you the time and the frustration of having to search the newsstand. Some newsagents may even offer a home delivery service, making it even easier to obtain your copy. So don’t miss an issue, simply complete the form below and take to your local newsagent today.
❒
*delete as appropriate NEWSAGENT ORDER FORM Please reserve/deliver* a copy of CAR MECHANICS on a regular basis, commencing with the ................................................ issue for
Mr/Mrs/Ms............................... First name ......................................................................... Surname ..................................................................................... Address ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. Postcode ...................................................................................... Daytime Tel No ................................................................................................................ GGG FEBRUARY 2024.indd 95
Bentley Flying Spur
3-part project – can we fix it, er, possibly! 09/01/2024 15:29
BACK ISSUES
ORDER DIRECT via shop.kelsey.co.uk/single-issue/car-mechanics-magazine
JANUARY 2024
DECEMBER 2023
NOVEMBER 2023
OCTOBER 2023
SEPTEMBER 2023
AUGUST 2023
JULY 2023
JUNE 2023
MAY 2023
APRIL 2023
MARCH 2023
FEBRUARY 2023
JANUARY 2023
DECEMBER 2022
NOVEMBER 2022
OCTOBER 2022
SEPTEMBER 2022
AUGUST 2022
On-and-off Car DPF Cleaning • Project Modifying your Car • Project Lexus IS Kit out your Workshop Supplement • DIY Servicing • Project Lexus IS 250, Pt3 A Guide to Aircon • Project Lexus IS 250, An introduction to ECUs • Project Lexus Lexus IS 250, Pt6 • Project Range 250, Pt5 • Project Range Rover L322 Vehicle Networking • Project Lexus IS • Project Range Rover L322 4.4 V8, Pt5 Pt2 • Project Range Rover L322 4.4 V8, IS 250, Pt1 • Project Range Rover L322 Rover L322 4.4 V8, Pt8 • Haldex Gen 4.4 V8, Pt7 • Clutch Clinic: Ford Mondeo 250, Pt4 • Project Range Rover L322 4.4 • Buying + Owning: Vauxhall Insignia Pt4 • CM Visit: Burton Power • Buying 4.4 V8, Pt3 • Summer Fun! • Buying + 4 Coupling Oil & Filter • Product Test: 2.0 TDCi Mk4 • Buying + Owning: Tesla V8, Pt6 • Saving a BMW Z3 • Buying 2008-2017 • Product Test: Cordless + Owning: VW Beetle 2012-2018 • Owning: Toyota GT86 2012-2021 • Timing Bluetooth FCRs • Buying + Owning: Kia Model 3 2017-on • Pothole Problem • + Owning: Nissan GT-R 2009-2022 • Vacuum Cleaners • 30 Car Accessories BMW Front Lower Suspension Arms • Belt Clinic: Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi • Service Stinger 2017-on • Service Bay: BMW Service Bay: Citroën C3 1.2 • Electronic Service Bay: Volvo C70 D3 • History of and Practices from long ago • Service Clutch Clinic: Vauxhall Astra J • Service Bay: Vauxhall Astra J 1.6 • Electronic 335d xDrive • Electronic Diagnostics: VW Diagnostics: Jaguar F-PACE 3.0 TDV6 • UK Registration Numbers • Electronic Bay: Suzuki SX4 S-Cross 1.6 • Electronic Bay: Skoda Citigo 1.0 • Electronic Diagnostics: VW Golf 1.4 TSI DSG • Golf 1.6 TDI • Previous Project Cars, Pt2. Previous Project Cars, Pt1. Diagnostics: Mercedes-Benz C320 CDi. Diagnostics: Audi A3 8P 2.0 TDI. Diagnostics: MINI Cooper S D F55. Diagnostics Case Study: BMW 7-series.
30 Used Cars for under £10k • Fixing Hard Tackling Smart Repairs • Project Tops • Project Range Rover L322 4.4 V8, Range Rover L322 4.4 V8, Pt1 • Pt2 • Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt6 Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt5 • • Hybrid Faults & Fixes, Pt2 • Buying + Hybrid Faults & Fixes, Pt1 • Buying Owning: Fiat 124 Spider 2016-2019 • + Owning: BMW i3 2013-on • DIY Service Bay: Toyota Avensis 2.2D • Product Garage Makeover • Service Bay: Test: Ratchet Spanners • Electronic VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI • Electronic Diagnostics: Peugeot 208 1.2 non-turbo. Diagnostics: Honda CR-V 2.2 i-DTEC.
Lighting – keep your vehicle street Additives – should you use them? legal • Project Fiat Panda 100HP, • Project Fiat Panda 100HP, Pt2 • Pt3 • Project Kia Sportage, Pt6 • Project Kia Sportage, Pt5 • Buying Buying + Owning: Mercedes-Benz + Owning: MINI Clubman 2015-on • A-Class 2013-on • Love a Lock-up? • MINI R50 Getrag 5sp Gearbox Repair Service Bay: Land Rover Freelander 2 • (Pt2) • Nine Screwdriver Sets on Test Electronic Diagnostics: Jaguar XE 2.0D • Service Bay: MG6 1.9D • Electronic • Xmas Fun! Diagnostics: Citroën C6 2.7 V6 HDi.
Understanding AdBlue & SCR Systems Getting to grips with Grease • Project Glow Plugs • Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 Cooling Systems • Project Ford Mondeo • Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt4 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt3 • Project TDCi, Pt2 • Project Fiat Panda 100HP, 2.0 TDCi, Pt1 • Project Fiat Panda • Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI Oil Pump Chain Fiat Panda 100HP, Pt6 • Ford Bonnet Pt5 • Ford Bonnet Lock Fix • Buying 100HP, Pt4 • Buying + Owning: Volvo Failure • Swapping Front Control Arms Lock Fix • Buying + Owning: VW Golf + Owning: BMW Z4 2003-2008 & XC60 2008-2017 & 2017-on • Past • Buying + Owning: Porsche Cayenne Mk6 2009-2016 • Product Test: 21 Car 2009-2017 • Residential Garage Innovations • Service Bay: Kia Sportage 2011-2018 • Service Bay: Jaguar XKR Shampoos • Service Bay: Jeep Wrangler Damp-Proofing • Service Bay: MINI F54 2.0 CRDi AWD • Electronic Diagnostics: 5.0 • Electronic Diagnostics: Citroën JK 3.8 V6 • Electronic Diagnostics: Land Clubman Cooper S 2.0 petrol • Electronic Citroën C4 1.6 HDi • Our Cars: 2013 DS3 1.6 THP. Rover Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6. Diagnostics: Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi AWD. BMW 5-series & 2007 Skoda Fabia TDI.
Dream Workshop (32 extra pages) • Project Fiat Panda 100HP, Pt1 • Project Kia Sportage, Pt4 • MINI R50 Getrag 5sp Gearbox Repair (Pt1) • Service Bay: VW Polo 1.2 TSI • Buying + Owning: Nissan X-Trail 2014-2021 • Electronic Diagnostics: Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost • Readers' Motors: Jaguar X-TYPE.
Diagnostics for Beginners • Project Kia Maximsing your Brakes • Project Kia Air Suspension • Project Kia Sportage, Sportage, Pt3 • Project Mercedes-Benz Sportage, Pt2 • Project Mercedes-Benz Pt1 • Project Mercedes-Benz SLK 350, SLK 350, Pt6 • Timing Belt Clinic: SLK 350, Pt5 • 10 Inspection Cameras Pt4 • Made in 1962 • Buying + Jaguar XF 2.2D • Buying + Owning: on Test • Buying + Owning: Ford Owning: Jaguar F-PACE 2016-on • Vauxhall Mokka/X 2012-2019 • Mondeo 2014-2022 • Spotlight: Shock/ Vauxhall Zafira B Central Locking Fix • Spotlight: Shock/Contact Alarm • Contact Alarm • Service Bay: Land Service Bay: Skoda Yeti 2.0 TDI 4x4 • Service Bay: Porsche Cayman • Our Rover Defender 2.5 • Summer Fun • Our Cars: BMW 730i and 318i Compact Cars: Vauxhall Meriva and BMW 5-series. Our Cars: Ford Focus Mk1 and PT Cruiser. and Ford Focus Mk1.
10 pages of your car problems solved by our experts
BINDERS
JAGUAR AJV8
TIMING CHAIN RENEW MERC SLK PROJECT
DISCS & PADS Brembo replacements
SAVING YOU MONEY SINCE 1958
BMW5SERIES
ROAD SPRING
VAUXHALL ASTRA 1.6
BRAKE HOSE
WIN
SAVE MONEY on your 8 MOTORING
50 TOP TIPS
✓DRIVING ■ TECHNIQUES ✓MAINTENANCE ■ ✓BUYING ■ & SELLING ✓5 FALSE ■ ECONOMIES FEBRUARY £2.95 June 20222020 £4.70
KELSEYmedia
3 prizes £541 worth over
SEE PAGE 24
SERVICING
Peugeot OTA Audi KELSEYmedia updates RS3 2.5 RCZ KELSEYmedia
FEBRUARY 2020
£2.95
KELSEYmedia
2010-2015 models KELSEYmedia
JUNE 2022 KELSEYmedia
Over-the-air mods
£2.95
JULY 2022
KELSEYmedia
BUYING USED KELSEY mediaTECHNOLOGY £2.95
Parts Washers
PAGE SPECIAL
COST SAVERS
5-cylinder tasks
MAY 2022
APRIL 2022
MARCH 2022
Electric & Hybrid Vehicle Supplement • 50 Cost Savers • Project Mercedes-Benz Bargain Buys for under £10k • Oil Analysis Get your Car Back on the Road • Project Towing – the basics • Project Vauxhall Buying Salvage • Project Mercedes-Benz SLK 350, Pt2 • Project Vauxhall Astra J, • Product Test: Battery Chargers • Project Vauxhall Astra J, Pt3 • Project Citroën DS3, Astra J, Pt2 • Project Citroën DS3, Pt5 SLK 350, Pt3 • Project Vauxhall Astra J, Pt5 • Over-the-Air Updates • Timing Mercedes-Benz SLK 350, Pt1 • Project Pt6 • Nissan Qashqai Mk1 Boot Handle • A Guide to Rustproofing • Buying + Pt6 • Product Test: 15 Oil & Fluid Drains Chain Clinic: Jaguar AJ-V8 • BMW 5-Series Vauxhall Astra J, Pt4 • Tailgate Strut Repair • MINI R50/R52/R53 Strut Top Owning: Audi TT Mk2 • Product Test: Aids • Buying + Owning: Chrysler 300C Front Coil Spring Replacement • Buying Mount Repair • Driving Towards 2030: Mounts • Driving Towards 2030: Hyundai 27 Glass Cleaners • Service Bay: 2002 2005-2010 • Living with a Bentley or + Owning: Peugeot RCZ 2010-2015 • Synthetic Fuel • Buying + Owning: Saab BAYON on Test • Buying + Owning: Honda Suzuki Jimny 1.3 • 10 pages of Q&As • Rolls-Royce • Our Cars: BMW 5-Series Service Bay: Audi RS3 2.5 • Our Cars: 9-5 2010-2012 • Service Bay: Renault Jazz Mk2 • VAG W12 Engine Profile • Our Cars – BMW 5-Series F10 and VW F10 and a rescued Citroën Xsara. Chrysler PT Cruiser and Skoda Fabia TDI. Megane 2.0 Sport RS. Service Bay: 2004 Rover 45 2.0 TD. Touareg V6 TDI. Back Issues.indd 96
£10.95 (UK) plus postage higher rates for overseas
holds 12 issues
Visit: shop.kelsey. co.uk/product/ car-mechanics-binder 07/01/2024 00:39
INDEX A AUDI A3 2.0 TDI, Electronic Diagnostics, Oct 23, p82-86
B BMW 5-series, front suspension rebuild, Sept 23, p46-48 7-series, suspension failure case study, Aug 23, p74-75 i3, Buying + Owning, June 23, p42-45 Z3, Saving from scrapyard, Nov 23, p40-43 Z4, Buying + Owning, Mar 23, p42-45
C Car accessories from long ago, Oct 23, p54-58 CITROËN C3 1.2, Service Bay, Dec 23, p62-66 C4 1.6 HDi, Electronic Diagnostics, Feb 23, p72-75 DS3 1.6 THP, Electronic Diagnostics, May 23, p70-73 CLUTCH CLINIC: Ford Mondeo Mk4, Clutch Clinic, Dec 23, p40-46 Vauxhall Astra J, Clutch Clinic, Sept 23, p50-54 CM Visit British Motor Museum, Nov 23, p76-77 Burton Power, Sept 23, p38-39
D Damp-proofing a Garage, Mar 23, p48-50 DIY Garage Makeover, June 23, p48-52 Driving Towards 2030 Maximising EV range, Jan 23, p52-53 More ways to go electric, Feb 23, p50-51 Suzuki Jimny, Nov 23, p44-45 VW Arteon, May 23, p18-19
E Electronic Diagnostics Series: Audi A3 2.0 TDI, Oct 23, p82-86 Citroën C4 1.6 HDi, Feb 23, p72-75 Citroën DS3 1.6 THP, May 23, p70-73 Honda CR-V 2.2 i-DTEC, June 23, p72-75 Jaguar F-PACE 3.0 TDV6, Dec 23, p82-85 Jaguar XE 2.0D, Jan 23, p62-65 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi, Mar 23, p70-73 Land Rover Discovery 4 TDV6, Apr 23, p68-72 Mercedes-Benz C320 CDI, Nov 23, p98-101 MINI Cooper S 2.0D F55, Sept 23, p72-75 Peugeot 208 1.2 VTi non-turbo, July 23, p102-105 Volkswagen Golf 1.4 TSI DS, Aug 23, p70-73
F FIAT 124 Spider, Buying + Owning, July 23, p78-81 Panda 100HP Project Pt3: Timing belt, Jan 23, p30-34 Pt4: Rear bumper repair, Feb 23, p34-37 Pt5: Paint, headlamp resto, alloy wheels, Mar 23, p34-38 Pt6: Seat rebuild, plugs and filters, Apr 23, p34-38 FORD Bonnet lock repair, Mar 23, p40-41 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Project Pt1: Introduction, Feb 23, p28-32 Pt2: Rear suspension work, Mar 23, p28-32 Pt3: Front dampers and brakes, Apr 23, p28-32
(January-December 2023)
Pt4: Turbocharger replacement, May 23, p28-32 Pt5: Turbo boost valve, headlights, June 23, p32-36 Pt6: Aircon condenser, bumper repairs, July 23, p36-40 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Timing Belt Clinic, Aug 23, p46-50 Front Control Arm swap, May 23, p40-41
M
H
MERCEDES-BENZ A-Class, Buying + Owning, Jan 23, p42-44 C320 CDI, Electronic Diagnostics, Nov 23, p98-101 MINI Clubman Cooper S 2.0 F54, Service Bay, Mar 23, p52-57 Cooper S 2.0D F55, Electronic Diagnostics, Sept 23, p72-75
HONDA CR-V 2.2 i-DTEC, Electronic Diagnostics, June 23, p72-75 Hybrid Faults & Fixes, Pt1, June 23, p38-41 Hybrid Faults & Fixes, Pt2, July 23, p22-25
NISSAN GT-R, Buying + Owning, Nov 23, p80-83
N
I
P
INSTANT EXPERT SERIES: AdBlue, May 23, p6-17 Air-conditioning, Sept 23, p6-17 Cooling, Feb 23, p6-17 ECUs, Aug 23, p6-17 Glow Plugs, Mar 23, p6-16 Grease, Apr 23, p6-17 Hard Tops, July 23, p6-17 Lighting, Jan 23, p6-18 Modifications, Dec 23, p6-16 Secrets of successful Servicing, Oct 23, p6-18 Smart Repairs, June 23, p6-17 Vehicle Networking, Nov 23, p6-16
Past Innovations, Feb 23, p46-48 PEUGEOT 208 1.2 VTi, Electronic Diagnostics, July 23, p102-105 PORSCHE Cayenne 958, Buying + Owning, May 23, p42-44 Pothole Problem, Dec 23, p56-57 Previous Project Cars, Part 1, Dec 23, p86-90 PRODUCT TESTS Car Shampoos, Apr 23, p46-50 Cordless Vacuum Cleaners, Oct 23, p48-52 Ratchet Spanners, July 23, p88-92
J JAGUAR F-PACE 3.0 TDV6, Electronic Diagnostics, Dec 23, p82-85 XE 2.0D, Electronic Diagnostics, Jan 23, p62-65 XKR 5.0, Service Bay, May 23, p52-56 JEEP Wrangler JK 3.8 V6, Service Bay, Apr 23, p52-57
K KIA Sportage 2.0 CRDi Project Pt6: Aircon condenser & stereo amp, Jan 23, p36-40 Sportage 2.0 CRDi, Service Bay, Feb 23, p52-57 Sportage 2.0 CRDi, Electronic Diagnostics, Mar 23, p70-73 Kit out your Workshop Supplement, Nov 23, p50-68
L LAND ROVER Freelander 2, Service Bay, Jan 23, p54-59 Discovery 4 TDV6, Electronic Diagnostics, Apr 23, p68-72 Range Rover L322 4.4 V8 Project Pt1: Introduction, June 23, p26-31 Pt2: Coolant hose fix, rear wiper, July 23, p30-34 Pt3: Smaller jobs, Aug 23, p32-36 Pt4: Fitting new head unit, Sept 23, p32-36 Pt5: New driveshaft, Oct 23, p36-40 Pt6: Front discs/pads & new caliper, Nov 23, p34-38 Pt7: Valley Pan Gasket, Dec 23, p34-38 LEXUS IS 250 Project Pt1: Introduction, Aug 23, p26-30 Pt2: Servicing, Sept 23, p26-30 Pt3: Brakes all-round, Oct 23, p30-34 Pt4: Automatic transmission service, Nov 23, p28-32 Pt5: Alloy wheel refurbishment, Dec 23, p28-32 Love a lock-up?, Jan 23, p46-48
R READERS’ MOTORS Fiat Panda & Volvo S60, May 23, p48-49
S SKODA Citigo 1.0, Service Bay, Sept 23, p56-60 Fabia 1.4 TDI oil pump chain, May 23, p34-36 SPOTLIGHT reviews Ring Fast Charge Jump-Starter 360, Mar 23, p58-59 SUZUKI SX4 S-CROSS 1.6, Service Bay, Oct 23, p62-66
T TESLA Model 3, Buying + Owning, Dec 23, p50-53 The Good Old Days, CM is 65!, Apr 23, p78-80 Top 30 Used Cars £2k to £10k, July 23, p43-74 TOYOTA Avensis 2.2D, Service Bay, July 23, p82-87 GT86, Buying + Owning, Aug 23, p42-45
U UK Registration Numbers, History of, Nov 23, p102-104
V VAUXHALL Astra J 1.6, Service Bay, Aug 23, p52-58 Insignia, Buying + Owning, Oct 23, p42-45 VOLKSWAGEN Beetle, Buying + Owning, Sept 23, p42-45 Golf Mk6, Buying + Owning, Apr 23, p42-45 Golf 1.4 TSI DSG, Electronic Diagnostics, Aug 23, p70-73 Tiguan 2.0 TDI, Service Bay, June 23, p54-60 VOLVO C70, Service Bay, Nov 23, p70-74 XC60, Buying + Owning, Feb 23, p42-45
To order back issues of CM please visit our website:
https://shop.kelsey.co.uk/ single-issue/ car-mechanics-magazine shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME Index 2023.indd 97
Car Mechanics 97
February 2024
01/01/2024 20:34
In my
Humble Opinion
Mike Humble shares a motoring near miss experience many of us may have encountered.
It’s all about
TIMING
Even though I have owned many cars (over 100) I promise you when I say I have never blown up an engine – yet. For sure, I have bought project cars in the past with knackered engines, but I have never had one implode, explode or otherwise expire during my incumbency. The reason for this mumble is that just this morning, I had a long phone call with an old sparring partner from my younger days where I was his metaphorical shoulder to cry on. The car in question is nothing to really worry about as he paid next to nothing for it, the used values are about as much as my shirt, and he’s already found and bought a replacement. So off to meet the great Griffin in the sky goes his 1.4 Vauxhall Astra Mk3 thanks to a seizure of the water pump that in turn stripped the cambelt. According to Graham, “it made a hell of a row” when it died. As stated, I have never had the fun-packed experience of turning an engine into its component parts, though I did have one very close experience that still makes the hairs stand up on the back of my neck when I think about it. Quite a while ago I bought a showroom condition Rover 214 SEi in Nightfire Red from a mate in the north. They were a really cracking motor with 15in alloys, sports seats in half cloth/half leather and lashings of burr walnut bedecking the doors and dash. Peter Rowe sold it to me, and I had known Peter since my brochure collecting and work experience days at Sherwoods of Darlington when he was a used car salesman. Peter had suffered ill health and was taking things a little easier working at one of those bomb site used car emporiums that nowadays are slowly dwindling in numbers.
Deal on a cambelt swap Everything with the car was spot on, and it was really cheap. The only fly in the ointment was the fact it had no service history and showed eighty odd thousand miles. The timing belt was possibly due for changing and the engine mounting bolts, etc., showed no signs of spanner rash that gives a clue someone has been ‘at it’ recently. I tried to haggle some extra mates’ rates discount, but Peter baulked at the notion. After a little small talk, Peter offered to get the cambelt done by their trusted garage if I handed over an extra £100. I couldn’t really argue with this, and a firm handshake ensued. A couple of hours later he rang me to tell me where and when to take the motor for the cambelt and a trip to the mechanic took place the day after. Arriving at the workshop my heart sank. To say this place looked horrendous was putting it mildly and the mechanic in question looked like a cross between Benny from Crossroads and a neanderthal man. The chap knew I was coming and stated I could hang around and wait while he did it or pop back in an hour or so. With hindsight, I should have opted to stay with the car but watching over the shoulder of someone else working on your car isn’t good professional practice no matter how tempted it 98 Car Mechanics IMHO FEBRUARY 2024.indd 98
February 2024
“In the morning daylight I popped the bonnet and was greeted with a vista that almost made me feel physically sick”. may seem. So off I toddled around the corner of this Darlington business unit site to call upon my old schoolmate Dave Turnbull who runs an independent tyre centre. We had a cuppa, chewed the fat for a while and it was soon time to pick the Rover up from the workshop. A quick look under the bonnet proved all had been attended to and I paid the chap the £100 as Pete had asked of me. His dot matrix printer spewed out a receipt and I was off round a relatives for a catch-up before the threehour drive back down to Northamptonshire. Very quickly, the car settled down into a fuss-free cruise on the A1M, M18 and M1. I was as happy as Larry rolling along in what seemed to be an utter bargain well worth the 400-mile round trip. A few weeks passed by, all without fuss or problem. That was, until one evening I went to drive over to a lady friend’s residence in Wellingborough. I had spent most of that day fitting in a smart-looking Sony head unit and boot-mounted 10-disc CD changer and I was looking forward to a pie and pea supper with some ‘owz yer father’ for dessert. Literally a few miles short of the destination on the busy A45 (near Whitworths flour mill for those who know the borough of Wellingborough) there was an alarming clatter and a clunk. This, allied to a glowing red charge light and stiff steering, told me the alternator belt had gone but I wasn’t too concerned as I carried a few tools in the boot, and I could get a new belt the following morning and have it all sorted in a jiffy. In the morning daylight I popped the bonnet and was greeted with a vista that almost made me feel physically sick. The previously described clatter and clunk was actually the bottom pulley falling off the end of the crankshaft taking the alternator belt with it. How the hell the timing belt sprocket managed to stay in situ was a miracle. Once the pulley is removed, the sprocket simply slides onto the crank located by a woodruff key that’s cast into the crank. If that had slid off, the engine would have been toast. Matey boy mechanic clearly hadn’t done up the pulley bolt to spec causing the problem – £100 well spent? Luckily, a main dealer in Bedford, Marshalls, had a pulley and bolt in stock, those with a new alternator belt cost me guess what? A shade over another £100. What close shaves have you had? Write in and tell us! shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME 01/01/2024 20:19
PERFORMANCE IS OUR DRIVE.
BILSTEIN B12
BILSTEIN EVO R BILSTEIN B14
BILSTEIN EVO T1 BILSTEIN EVO S
BILSTEIN B16
BILSTEIN PERFORMANCE BILSTEIN performance suspension systems put you at the forefront of driving pleasure. We combine the best technologies, components and parts for you, your style and your demands. The same ones that we develop and test for our customers like Porsche, BMW or Mercedes-Benz and refine them to perfection in our BILSTEIN road tests under motor sports conditions. performance.bilstein.com
Car Mech_2023_03_Mar_ThyssenKrupp Bilstein GmbH_FP.indd 1
01/02/2023 09:56
We sell everything but . . .
WWW.CAARPARTS.CO.UK
WITH OVER 350,000 PARTS & ACCESSORIES FROM OVER 300 INDEPENDENT MEMBER STORES
CLICK & COLLECT
Not all member stores currently offer buy online / collect in store but all stores offer a telephone ordering service.
Mech_2021_10_Oct_CAAR Parts_FP.indd 1 1 Car Mech_2022_05_May_CAAR Parts Ltd_FP.indd
31/08/2021 17:17 14:36 16/03/2022