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candidate at Stanford University, 29, ‘ulu will be recognized with has studied ‘ulu for years. its own festival at the Amy B.H. The most powerful chiefs, Lin- Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden. coln said, gravitated toward the Now in its second year, the festival productive areas. drew 1,500 people to its inaugural “It’s all about food,” he said. event last fall. Another ‘ulu festival “The more control over food and in March, hosted by Kua O Ka Lä other natural resources, the more charter school in Puna, attracted powerful and influential that chief more than 1,000 people. would be. It’s not an accident that The festivals, which are free and the development of these ‘ulu sys- open to the public, are organized by tems were also the political centers Ho‘oulu ka ‘Ulu, a project to reviof the island. It definitely signified talize ‘ulu as an attractive, delicious, political organization.” nutritious, abundant, affordable It wasn’t and culturally until Europeans appropriate food arrived with disthat addresses eases that wiped Hawai‘i’s foodout much of the security issues. population and Ho‘oulu ka left fewer people ‘Ulu is a project to manage the of the Hawai‘i groves that the Homegrown groves started Food Network to die off. and the BreadIn addition, fruit Institute as land was of the National parceled out to Tropical Botanicultivate coffee, cal Gardens. pineapple and “People are sugar, ‘ulu paid getting more a price. interested – how “That’s really Angelina McCoy, left, and Hanora Lapiyalur, to cook ‘ulu, when the dry right, of the Mau Piailug Satawal ‘Ohana caring for the lands collapsed shared their deep knowledge of ‘ulu at the trees, harvestas a system,” 2011 Breadfruit Festival. ing, how and Lincoln said. “ when to plant, ‘Ulu was defipruning, all nitely still used, but it wasn’t a aspects,” said Andrea Dean, board food as much favored by the Euro- member of Hawai‘i Homegrown peans.” Food Network. “There is an interLegend has it that in his parting est in … using traditional foods like words to his wife, Kü said, “Eat ‘ulu for food security and as a comsome, feed the keiki.” mercial crop.” Dean pointed to the number of Because the ‘ulu tree reproduces through its own roots, those ancient tree saplings sold at the previous groves continue to propagate. festivals as an example. Farmers “You can still see wild trees pop up and backyard gardeners snapped in macadamia nut fields and ravines up 300 trees at the Kona festival on the Big Island,” Lincoln said. and 200 more earlier this year at “Those are remnant trees, which is the Puna event. technically the same tree.” The theme of this year’s Kona festival is “Breadfruit Festival Goes ‘ULU REVITALIZATION Bananas” and features a cooking Centuries after its fabled introduc- contest, an art contest, music and tion to the Hawaiian Islands, the ‘ulu storytelling, as well as workshops is making something of a comeback on caring for ‘ulu and banana trees, as more and more residents are look- and a cooking demonstration with ing to buy local, eat local and expand celebrity chef Sam Choy. their culinary palettes. One of the featured presenters In Captain Cook on the west side of Hawai‘i Island on Sept. See ‘ulu on page 27
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