SEASONS THE MASTER CHEFS
seasons THE MAGAZINE FOR THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE
SUMMER 2013 | £2.95
the master chefs
Close to the bone
Mayfair’s meat mogul on cooking like a butcher
viva argentina A taste of Tango country
Beck Aikins Darroze Roux Jnr Blumental
breaking bread with paul hollywood
Inside the kitchens of Britain’s biggest chefs SEASONAL RECIPES The Masters_Cover.indd 1
ART & ANTIQUES
LUXURY TRAVEL 09/07/2013 17:33
8. The Review
We bring you the best news, launches and reviews of the season.
11. Kitchen Wish list
These top kitchen gadgets ensure you can cook gourmet cuisine with ease.
12. Close to the bone
Justin Preston lends his expertise and passion for all things meat in a bid to get Britain searing to perfection this summer.
16. Breaking bread with Paul Hollywood We provide a sneak preview into the new book from Britain’s favourite master baker.
23. Chef profile: Michel Roux JR Masterchef Michel Roux JR chats to Seasons about dream dinner guests, expensive purchases and Eric Cantona.
30. Chef profile: Alain Roux
Chef-Patron Alain Roux shares his thoughts on what has made The Waterside Inn the success it is today.
36. Chef profile: Heston Blumenthal
An insight into The Hinds Head and Dinner by Heston.
49. Chef profile: Heinz Beck Caroline Kent goes behind the kitchen doors at Apsleys – a Heinz Beck restaurant at the Lanesborough Hotel.
56. Chef profile: Tom Aikens
Is the Paris-trained powerhouse a pussycat these days?
60. Chef profile: Hélène Darroze
An exclusive insight into the kitchen and the mind of one of France’s most important contemporary imports.
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64. Angela Hartnet t: Paving the way
This busy lady takes time out of her hectic schedule to talk family, fame and downtime.
PUBLISHER & CEO Kevin Harrington
68. James Martin: Life in the fast lane
EDITOR Caroline Kent
One of the country’s most loved chefs is suprisingly as modest as he is talented.
70. A very British picnic
Kathryn McCann presents your absolute must-haves for outside dining during the summer season.
FEATURES WRITER Kathryn McCann SUB EDITOR Glenda McCauley
SENIOR DESIGNER Reneta Bozhinovska DESIGNER Juliana Martinhago
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Julia Vasel Regina Essl
76. At home with Hix
This British chef and restaurateur talks British cuisine, emerging restaurant trends and his enduring friendship with Damien Hirst.
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Jo Harrington PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Helen Shaw
78. Mark Hix’s cocktail masterclass
ADMINISTRATORS Linda Young Jessica Samuels
Bring Hix into your home with these exclusive cocktail recipes.
COMMERCIAL MANAGER Tony Ditri For editorial enquiries call 020 7870 9090 © Damson Media 2013
80. Viva Argentina A taste of tango country.
All rights reserved. All material in Seasons: The Master Chefs is wholly copyright, and reproduction without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly forbidden. Neither this publication nor its contents constitute an explicit endorsement by the featured chefs or by Damson Media, of the products or services mentioned in advertising or editorial content. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, neither the featured chefs nor Damson Media shall have any liability for errors or omissions.
86. Tour de wine
The 100th anniversary of the Tour de France passes Europe’s best vineyards and prime wine country. Seasons guides you through the top spots.
91. Five minutes with Alfons Schuhbeck We talk summer cuisine with this top German chef.
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY Damson Media
92. Area spotlight: St James’s Street Explore the best this area has to offer.
94. Seasons Loves
From the latest gourmet products to delicious delicacies, indulge in just a few of our favourite things.
97. Go Slow
Slow Food Alliance brings food back to basics.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: With special thanks to everyone who helped make this issue possible, including all featured chefs. Cover image: Apsleys at The Lanesborough.
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What s Happening We bring you the best news, launches and reviews of the season.
beauty on board
Being off dry land is no longer a reason to neglect your usual beauty regime now Carol Joy London has launched their Beauty on Board service. The expert professional beauty and hair team can visit you on your yacht at a time convenient for you. Choose from a comprehensive range of hair and make up services, manicures, pedicures, facials and body treatments – all available at the touch of a button. Prices start at €55. www.caroljoylondon.com
Brit Pop: English Sparkling Wines are top of the pops
British bubblies demonstrated their star quality at the 30th annual International Wine Challenge (IWC) with four wines being awarded a gold medal. In a record year of success three English sparkling wines received the much-coveted medal, with a sweet white wine from Surrey also taking gold. Medal winners included a 2008 sparkling Chardonnay Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs produced in Kent, while the bubbly blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (2008) for Nyetimber Rosé is grown in West Sussex. Completing the sparkling golden trio is a 2009 Classic Cuvée from Furleigh Estate in Bridport, Dorset. The warm temperatures and chalky soil in the South of England are similar to those found in the Champagne in France, making it perfect for creating stunning sparkling wines. Charles Metcalfe, Co-Chairman of the International Wine Challenge is pleased with the success of Britain’s winemakers. “The gold medal winning wines are absolutely stunning. They have been tasted against thousands of contenders so it is a tremendous achievement that will catapult their product to an international audience. The IWC is the most influential wine contest in the world and we are thrilled that our home grown talent is really shining.” 8 seasons the master chefs
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don’t fake it
William Chase, founder of the awardwinning Chase Vodka brand and the new Williams Great British Extra Dry Gin, has criticised ‘fake’ distilleries across the UK. “It’s time to expose the fakes. If it’s factory-produced then don’t advertise it as ‘homemade’. If it’s the same beverage, don’t change the label just to increase the price,” he said. “I don’t want people to see my product and, because of cheap imitators, think its just another one of those mass-produced beverages you can buy in bulk.” Chase’s vodka and gin is produced with a traditional still that also has a bespoke rectifying column as part of the batch distillation process (versus the continuous distillation process). It helps mix the vapour and the liquid, producing the condensate that is the vodka’s starting point.
Monikers are launching a weekend brunch with a difference – the Sunday Drunch. ‘Hair of the dog’ is often touted as the best hangover reliever, and now we can practice what we preach with convivial dining and drinking at this Hoxton Square establishment. The Sunday Drunch menu will range from snack-sized bites to a selection of larger plates served alongside restorative Bloody Marys, expertly mixed cocktails, craft beers, champagne and wine. Book your hangover cure at www.monikers.co.uk
FORAGE FOR YOUR FOOD If you love food and prefer to get your hands dirty rather than sit back and watch the professionals on telly, Food Safari’s hands-on, in-the-field courses offer the chance to bring out those hunter-gatherer instincts. Learn wild foraging or butchery and make jam and bread from scratch! There are different courses available, from game butchery courses to coastal foraging, preserving and brewing. Skin a rabbit and eat it over a delicious game lunch or learn the art and science about preserving and producing jams, jellies, curds and chutneys. Food Safari courses make great presents and gift vouchers are available.
Sake on Saturdays
Sake No Hana, the modern Japanese restaurant by the internationally renowned Hakkasan Group, will launch an exclusive ‘Initiation To Sake’ this summer. Running from 11am, the half-day event will offer an unparalleled introduction to the history of Japan’s national drink, an understanding of the culture of sake, with a particular focus on how and when to drink it. The event, hosted by Hakkasan’s Head Wine Buyer, Christine Parkinson and well-known wine guru, Anthony Rose will no doubt provide a compelling insight into one of Japan’s most famous exports. Don’t miss out! Book your place for one of the following dates: August 3, September 7 and October 5. www.sakenohana.com
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Roux Scholarship: Winner announced Paul O’Neill, Senior Sous Chef at Ashdown Park Hotel, has won the prestigious Roux Scholarship after beating off tough competition from five other finalists. Each was given two and a half hours to cook an Escoffier inspired recipe – a whole Scottish salmon stuffed with a hake and mushroom forcemeat, braised with red wine, garnished with spinach subrics and potatoes, served with a red wine sauce. In attendance was a stellar line-up, which included Rick Stein, Brian Turner, Angela Hartnett, James Martin, Raymond Blanc, David Nicholls and the first ever Roux Scholar – Andrew Fairlie. Commenting on the win, Michel Roux Jr said: “Paul is undoubtedly a great chef and an assiduous one at that, but his unflappable nature along with his generous comportment make him the perfect Roux Scholar.” Following the guidance of the Roux family, Paul has chosen to hone his skills with Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. www.rouxscholarship.co.uk
Sacla’, the leading Italian food brand, has launched a cocktail with a difference to mark the 150th anniversary of the first recorded Pesto recipe. ‘The Pestini’ is a cocktail using key pesto components: basil, pine nuts and Parmesan cheese. Blending gin, basil, Limoncello and a specially made pine nut syrup and served with the perfect accompaniment of a crunchy Parmesan and basil crisp, the aperitif is a delectable summery delight, which packs a flavoursome Italian punch. The Pestini:
40ml Hendrick’s Gin 30ml Limoncello 5ml specially made pine nut syrup Splash of lemon juice to taste Dash of basil infused water Fresh basil to garnish
Yamazaki by Bill Amberg
World-renowned London designer Bill Amberg has partnered with Yamazaki Japanese Whisky to create two limited edition leather pieces for its iconic Yamazaki 18 Year and Yamazaki 25 Year single malt whiskies, which embody the pioneering spirit of the House. For the 18-year-old whisky, Amberg sought to create a bold yet simple statement piece reflecting the infinite respect the Japanese hold for each element found in nature – where nothing is added or taken away. The 25-year-old whisky reflects the three elements of this unique partnership: oak, leather, copper and is inspired by the three rivers of Yamazaki. Both are available from October 2013. www.suntory.com/whisky
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Kitchen Wishlist These top kitchen gadgets ensure you can cook gourmet cuisine with ease. Words by Kathryn McCann
A Perfectly Chilled Tipple Teroforma Whisky Stones are designed to perfectly chill cask-aged spirits without diluting or over-cooling the drink. These solid, handcrafted cubes of soapstone are nonporous and impart neither flavour nor odour, ensuring that the integrity or flavour of your favourite dram is never compromised. Teroforma £16 www.teroforma.com
Dry Your Eyes
Ensure the kitchen remains a tear-free zone with these white onion goggles by Eddingtons. One size fits all and they are stylish too! John Lewis, £23 www.johnlewis.com
A favourite kitchen essential of many celebrity chefs, the SuperFast Thermapen™ has an easy to read digital display that gives an accurate temperature reading in just three seconds. Stylish and easy to use – you’ll wonder how you ever cooked without it. Thermapen, £57.60 www.thermapen.co.uk
Take food preparation to the next level with this quirky bamboo cutting board from Mocubo. The three storage containers guarantee your kitchen worktops remain mess-free. John Lewis, £39.99 www.johnlewis.com
Wave goodbye to those hard to remove wine stains with this remarkable red wine stain remover, made of 100% natural ingredients. Non-flammable, biodegradable and contains no bleach or phosphates. Cream Supplies, £6.26 www.creamsupplies.co.uk
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“I’ve still got
far more to achieve Masterchef Michel Roux Jr chats to Seasons about dream dinner guests, expensive purchases and Eric Cantona.
What is your favourite dish to eat and to cook? My God, that’s a tough question to answer! When people have asked me before what would be my last meal I always say a roast lobster with garlic butter and fat chips. I love lobster, and I suppose a baked or a roast lobster would be ideal. In terms of cooking, it would have to be on a barbecue at my house in the south of France or on an island with a nice beach, so the location is important as well. As a chef, do you feel a responsibility to promote small, artisan producers? Most definitely. Sustainability is high on the agenda. We do hunt out small farmers, holdings and producers, and where possible we will use them. The difficulty is, of course, using them as a constant source. For example, if somebody knocks on my door delivering two or three pieces of lamb, which are beautiful and perfect, I can only use them on special menus, I can’t put them on permanently because it’ll never be the same. There’s a particular biodynamic farm in Dorset called Heritage Prime. Their produce is quite extraordinary and I take anything and everything, from eggs to chickens, turkeys, hogget lamb, pork and a bit of beef. They don’t produce masses, but what they do produce is extraordinary.
Sustainability is high on the agenda. we do hunt out small farmers, holdings and producers, and where possible we will use them.
You’ve cooked for prime ministers and A-list stars, who haven’t you cooked for that you would like to in the future? Eric Cantona, being a Manchester United fan. He likes his food and he is just such a legend. Which is your favourite restaurant in the world? El Celler de Can Roca. Founded by
the three Roca brothers it’s in Girona, north of Barcelona. The food is, obviously, great. That’s a given. But what is extraordinary about the place is the lovely warmth and the aura that you feel because it’s run by the three brothers; a very warm family feeling. I went for the first time last year and have been three times since. Which three people (past or present) would you
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like to have as dinner guests? Other than Eric Cantona, I’d also like Chris Robshaw, the England rugby captain. He’s such a charming guy. And my third choice would be Paul Bocuse, the granddaddy of French gastronomy. It would be lovely to see him and raise a glass with him. If you wanted to have a night off, who would you have cook for you? Cook for me? There aren’t many people I could trust! I wouldn’t mind my daughter, she could cook for me. That way I could see how she’s progressing [Michel’s daughter, Emily is training to become a chef in Monaco at the Alain Ducasse restaurant]. What would you have on the menu? I love Alain Ducasse’s rhum baba so if she could replicate that I would be very happy. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Anywhere in the Indian Ocean. I love the weather obviously, but the people as well. Be it the Seychelles, Mauritius or in the islands of the Maldives, it’s just a wonderful destination to go to. I try to go once a year if possible, but it’s not easy. Do you prefer relaxing beach-type holidays or thrill-seeking adventures? I like both. I do like to chill out on a beach and read a book because I never get enough time to read as much as I’d like to, but I also enjoy the cultural side of holidaying. So if I’m staying in a city for example then I like to explore the sights and visit museums. What one item do you have to always pack? My trainers, always. I enjoy running and they’re ideal to have when exploring. What is your favourite book? At the moment I’m reading an autobiography from Harvey Thorneycroft, who was a rugby player that used to play for the [Northampton] Saints and for England. It’s really intriguing because it’s set around that moment in time
cook for me? there aren‘t many people i could trust! i wouldn‘t mind my daughter, she could cook for me. when rugby changed from amateur to professional, and he’s got a real insight into it. He’s got some lovely stories to tell, which makes it a really interesting read. I do enjoy reading autobiographies. The Alex Ferguson one was great. I tell you one book I couldn’t put down – Cod by Mark Kurlansky. It’s about how cod shaped the world we live in now. Even for those who are not interested in food, it’s a great read. Favourite film? I like Quentin Tarantino films; Reservoir Dogs , Pulp Fiction , Kill Bill . They’re pure escapism. They are gory, bloody and horrible, yes, but there’s actually a story to them and there’s a lot of black humour. I just love the way
he directs his films. Favourite song/musician? I’m a big [Pink] Floyd fan. Heavy metal as well; [Deep] Purple, [Led] Zeppelin, I’ve got them all. In fact my ringtone is one of Zeppelin’s songs! Favourite artist? At the moment I am collecting a few drawings from Rachel Goodyear. She’s based in Manchester and she does some beautiful drawings. Black and white illustrations with flashes of red, they’re stunning. Each drawing tells a story and I think art should tell a story. Your house and car aside, what is the most expensive purchase you’ve ever made? Probably wine. Or it could be art. [Consults David Galetti, Le Gavroche’s head sommelier] David, how much would you say a case of Eken ’67 would cost? [David’s response: More or less £12,000]. So around a grand a bottle? So no, it would be the art! [Laughs].
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Summer Menu GRILLED TIGER PRAWNS WITH CUCUMBER SALAD AND PISTACHIO YOGURT DRESSING salt and place in a colander to drain. After about 30 minutes the salt will have leeched the water out of the cucumber. Lightly squeeze the cucumber strips, place them in a bowl and divide the yogurt in half. Finally, season with a generous amount of pepper.
Serves 4 12 medium-sized tiger prawns 1 large cucumber 120g peeled pistachios 150g plain Greek-style yoghurt
Put the rest of the yogurt in a blender with half the pistachios. Season with salt and pepper, then blitz to a fine puree â€“ you can also do this in a mortar. Finely chop the rest of the pistachios.
Olive oil Salt and pepper Method
Peel the tiger prawns, leaving the tip of the tail intact. Using a sharp knife, cut down the back to remove the intestine. Peel the cucumber, cut it in half lengthways and remove the seeds. Cut in half again to give four pieces, about 14cm long. Using a Japanese vegetable slicer, cut the cucumber into fine, long julienne strips, season with
Smear a little olive oil on a very hot non-stick pan. Place the prawns in the pan and cook over high heat for two minutes on each side. Season with salt and pepper. Using a kitchen fork, make twirls of cucumber, as you would pasta, and place one in the centre of each plate. Arrange three tiger prawns around the cucumber, drizzle on some yogurt sauce and sprinkle with chopped pistachios.
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GRILLED MARINATED BEEF CANTONESE BARBECUE STYLE
Serves 4 500g beef sirloin (trimmed weight), no fat or sinew 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 1 tbsp clear honey 1 tbsp dark soy sauce 1 piece fresh ginger 4cm long, peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 tbsp coarsely ground black/white pepper 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp sesame oil Method Slice the beef against the grain into thin, 3mm slices. Mix all the remaining ingredients together to make the marinade. Cover the beef with the mixture and leave to marinate for at least two hours but no more than 12.
Remove the meat from the marinade. Cook over high heat on a barbecue or in a non-stick pan to caramelise and serve immediately. Great served with a crisp lettuce salad or in a baguette as a spicy sandwich.
MANGO AND BERRY JELLY Serves 8 2 large Alphonso mangoes 150g strawberries 150g raspberries 80g black berries 1 small knob of fresh ginger 500ml sweet wine, Sauternes or similar 6 gelatine leaves 80g sugar
ÂŠ LE GAVROCHE & TOM HOWARD
Method This can be made in a terrine or set in individual glasses. If making in a terrine line with cling film and then line again with thin slices of mango. Arrange the rest of the fruit in the recipient you are using.
Bring the wine and sugar to the boil then add the chopped ginger and gelatine, stir until dissolved. Once cooked, pour over the fruit and leave to set in the refrigerator. Delicious as it is or with a scoop of ice cream. 29 seasons the master chefs
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Like a duck to water
Alain Roux may have spent eight years honing his culinary skills in France, but there is no doubt that this chef-patron now has his roots firmly in the Thames-side village of Bray. Buoyed by The Waterside Inn’s Michelin success, he continues to provide world-class cuisine in a picturesque location.
The Waterside Inn remains the only establishment in the UK to have retained its three Michelin stars for over 25 years. What’s the secret to your success? There are no secrets behind The Waterside Inn’s three star Michelin success. We are fortunate to have excellent team leaders and we all try our utmost to make our customers happy. As we all know, when something is done well, rewards usually follow. Our success is the result of daily hard work, quality and consistency. The achievement is a credit to the whole team, including front of house, but we all know, the challenge is to maintain these high standards. The Michelin stars are very important and denote recognition from an established international food guide, which is customer-based and is renowned for its professional, fair ratings.
if you visit bray, you are truly spoilt for choice when it comes to good restaurants. Jesus Hospital, a red brick group of almhouses, founded in 1609 by William Goddard to look after the village’s poorest aged members, which is now run by The Donnington Hospital Trust. There is also a wonderful community here that enjoys facilities including a Village Hall which hosts many exhibitions and concerts and the village green
which offers the perfect site for the summer fayre with all its stalls and games. The residents take great pride in maintaining an attractive environment and the village has been a finalist in the ‘Britain in Bloom’ competition for many years running and has won the best small village category. Bray is also famous for the many celebrities who live here, and the stretch of luxury riverside properties has been coined ‘Millionaires’ Row’. Below: The most popular dish served at The Waterside is pan-fried lobster mediallions with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne.
What makes the village of Bray so special? Why do you think it has become such a centre of culinary excellence? The village of Bray is very special and unique. It occupies a unique and beautiful position on the River Thames, a picturesque village with pretty Tudor-style black and white cottages and many outstanding features including St. Michael’s Church, which dates from the 13th century and looks fantastic in its position next to the cricket ground. Another historic feature is The 30 seasons the master chefs
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u did yo
inn terside The wa only e h t s remain ent blishm uk esta ree h t tain to main s for r a t s in Michel s. 25 year
Of course, the village is now world famous for its excellent restaurants, boasting two of the four threeMichelin starred restaurants in the UK, The Waterside Inn and Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck. There are two gastro pubs, The Crown and The Hind’s Head which are owned by Heston plus the renowned Caldesi in Campagna, which used to be a pub and The Monkey Island Hotel. So if you visit Bray, you are truly spoilt for choice when it comes to good restaurants. You spent eight years gaining experience in France. How has this experience helped you during your time at the Waterside Inn? Would you ever be tempted to return to the country? The experience I gained training and working in France has undoubtedly
The fact that French wine is so great seems to be a fact of life and will probably remain so forever.
helped me a great deal and offered me my first steps into the industry. France offers some of the best apprenticeships and training opportunities for aspiring chefs, whether it is to work in a pâtisserie or a restaurant. I was very lucky and achieved the C.A.P. as a Pastry Chef and Chef Cook. As an apprentice at Pâtisserie Millet, I learned a great deal. It was my first job and I was privileged to work with Jean Millet, one of the greatest, most talented professional pastry chefs. I learned everything about pastry from him at Pâtisserie Millet, a Pâtisserie Traiteur, specialising in sweet and savoury pâtisserie. He was a tough teacher but as a man, he is a godfather to me. My apprenticeship here was a fantastic, formative experience, which has informed my career. I worked in five Relais & Chateaux restaurants in France before joining
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attitude towards their colleagues and peers, the judges. As we all know, in a competition such as this, so much depends on performance on the day and there will always be outstanding competitors who perform well. It is often difficult to decide and every year the standards get higher and higher, however the eventual winner inevitably stands out clearly on the day of the final. How likely is it that these young chefs may gain a permanent post at a Michelin starred restaurant when the three-month scholarship ends? The young chef scholar will immediately improve his CV with such an achievement. The Roux Scholarship is respected nationally and internationally, which helps any scholar to reach their goals. The judges and the entire Roux family will always be there to help the winner gain a position in a Michelin-starred restaurant of their choice if we think it is the right move for them. We are always very happy to help them progress in their career as a chef.
my father at The Waterside Inn. I also spent my military service at the Palais de l’Elysée, Paris working for Président Mitterand, his close family and staff and I am proud to be a Master Pâtissier in the International Association Relais. I worked with my father for many years in the family business at The Waterside which gave me a clear idea of what to expect when I came to run it as Chef Patron, working as part of a team and taking over from my father. Could I be tempted to return to France? Yes, I would never rule this out, perhaps one day. You are one of the judges
of The Roux Scholarship. What qualities do you look for in an up and coming young chef? Have there been any times when you’ve found the decision extremely difficult? During the course of The Roux Scholarship competition, we meet many talented young chefs. When we judge, we observe how each of them works, not only looking at their cooking skills but also their flair in the kitchen, whether they organise themselves well and work tidily and scrupulously. An aspiring scholar should display not only excellent cooking skills but also an outstanding
What is the most popular dish served at The Waterside Inn? What is your own personal favourite? There are a number of popular dishes served at The Waterside Inn. The most popular is probably ‘tronçonnettes de homard poêlées minute au porto blanc’ – pan-fried lobster medallions with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne. My favourite dish is new and features in the current summer menu – ‘tournedos d’A ngus grillé au charbon de bois, tatin aux échalotes et girolles sautées, jus à la sarriette du jardin’ – barbecued fillet of Angus beef served with caramelized shallot tart tatin, sautéed girolle mushrooms and savory scented jus. This is prepared using our newly acquired Big Green Egg barbecue, my new toy in our kitchen. How does the menu change according to the different seasons? We change the à la carte and tasting menus four times a year according to
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I decided to train as a chef early in my life. i made a firm personal choice rooted in my deep love and interest in food. the season – spring, summer, autumn and winter. On average, we include 2030% new dishes on each new menu. The Menu Gastronomique, or lunch specials menu, is decided every morning according to the market availability of freshest ingredients so this menu has a truly seasonal feel. We commonly use ingredients that may have a very short season. You exclusively serve French wine. What makes French wine so great, and what is your favourite tipple? It is true; we only serve French wines at the restaurant. There are such a variety of fantastic wines in France so it is easy to find a perfect match for our cuisine, which is classic French in style and origin. The fact that French wine is so great seems to be a fact of life and will probably remain so forever. Quite simply, I love champagne and I could drink it any time with anything and everything! Your father of course, is the great Michel Roux. Did this make your decision to train as a chef an inevitable one? I decided to train as a chef early in my life. I made a firm personal choice rooted in my deep love and interest in food. I never knew my dad was ‘great’ and I still don’t think he is! My father was ‘over the moon’ when I chose to work in the catering industry and progressed well. The best culinary advice I have received from my father is to remember not to cook for yourself but to cook for the customer. You do of course have a highly accomplished career of your own, but do you still go to your father for advice? I often seek advice, not only from my father but also my right-hand-
man, Fabrice Uhryn, our Head Chef and Diego Masciaga, my restaurant manager. The Waterside Inn is a family business and I am very lucky to have my father close at hand who of course can offer a huge wealth of experience and advice for which I am very grateful. As a family we have always pooled our knowledge and advice, which is a major benefit.
Top: Alain on the terrace at The Waterside. Bottom: Chilled avocado soup, served with a sea trout tartare and yellow peach, garnished with a Charolais soft cheese croûton. Opposite Page: Grilled tender rabbit fillets, served on a celeriac fondant with glazed chestnuts and Armagnac sauce; warm golden plum soufflé.
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A decadent dessert Courtesy of Valrhona
DULCEY AND EXOTIC MARMALADE PANNACOTTA Serves 20 Dulcey Pannacot ta 250g milk
25g glucose 5g leaf gelatin 425g Dulcey chocolate 32% 500g whipping cream 35% Method
Melt the chocolate at 40 o C and add the glucose. Bring the milk to a boil. Add the soaked and drained gelatin. Strain. Gradually pour onto the melted chocolate to obtain a glossy and elastic texture. Add this to the cold cream. Process for a few seconds. Leave to set in the refrigerator.
50g soft flour 50g almonds flour 50g dry butter 84% fat Method
Cut the butter into small cubes. Sift together the dry ingredients. Add the butter and process in a freestanding mixer with a paddle attachment. The mixture will form large crumbs before coming together into a dough. Stop processing and put the dough in the refrigerator for a minimum of 30 minutes. Pass the dough through a 4mm screen or a candissoire rack to obtain even-sized pieces.
Keep in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to cook.
ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING
Bake at 150-160 o C with the damper open until golden brown.
Spread some tempered Dulcey chocolate between two silicone sheets and cut into 1.5 x 10cm rectangles with an extendable wheeled cutter.
When the streusel is cold, spray with a chocolate spray gun mix to protect from humidity. MANGO BANANA MARMALADE 140g mango pulp, 375g fresh mango, 50g banana pulp, 40g soft brown sugar Method
Cut the mango into 1.5cm dice. Bring the mango and banana pulps to a boil with the sugar. Add the diced fresh mango and set aside in the refrigerator.
Pipe 30g mango banana marmalade into each verrine and set aside in the freezer for five minutes to freeze the surface of the marmalade. Immediately pour the tempered pannacotta into the glass and set aside in the refrigerator in the fridge. When ready to serve, add 10g of almond streusel crumbs and a couple of Dulcey chocolate decorations.
ÂŠ ALAIN ROUX AT THE WATERSIDE INN, VALRHONA
ALMONDS STREUSEL 50g soft brown sugar
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Life in the fast lane Born into humble beginnings as a farmer’s son, and driven by his ambition to own a Ferrari by the time he was 40-years-old, James Martin has transcended even his own boundaries of success.
n 1994, at the tender age of 22, James took the head chef position at the Hotel and Bistro du Vin, where he changed the menu everyday – demonstrating his real passion and talent for food. After stints in London, France and at the 5 red star Chewton Glen, TV came calling, and James has rarely been seen off screen since 1996. He now pulls in record viewing figures of 3.5 million, presenting BBC1’s hugely successful weekly show, Saturday Kitchen. His pure British cooking and irresistible desserts have established him as one of the country’s most loved chefs, but surprisingly he remains as modest as he is talented.
At college you were offered jobs by a host of high-profile chefs. Why did you join Anthony Worrall Thompson? At that particular time Queens Gate in West London was a buzzing place. It was known about even as far north as we were, 350 miles away. It was kind of an instant decision, but the right one. By the time you were 22 you were a head chef, how did
Michel Roux inspires me probably more than anybody. He’s a legend, an absolute legend. that level of success feel at such a young age? That was the most successful time of my career. Success isn’t financial, success is what you believe is your most successful time, and for me that was when I became head chef for the Hotel Du Vin (in Winchester). It wasn’t by any means financial, but I had achieved a life goal, I had achieved everything I wanted to achieve.
What advice would you give budding chefs? Don’t do it! (laughs) You get what you put in really. If you want to be the best chef, you’ve got to work with the best chefs, and if you want to work for the best you’ve got to put up with a lot. If you’re prepared for it, and if your willing to stick at it, you’ll get there in the end. When you work with young catering students, you teach them that all this TV stuff is great, but fundamentally you’re a chef at heart and that’s where it should always end up. Like I say to Chris, if it all crashes down tomorrow, we grab our knives and we walk back into the kitchen. Do you have a personal philosophy that you live by? Watch what the masses do and do the opposite. I’ve said no to a lot of things in my career because you just end up doing what everyone else is doing. I mean look at Gordon and Jamie, fantastic, you can earn an awful lot of money, but the hassle that comes with it is just immense. I mean, do you really want that? No. I come back to my little house and take my dog for a walk, it’s great.
© HOWARD SHOOTER
Have you always wanted to be a chef? I had two career aspirations when I was young, becoming a vet was one of them, and being a chef was the second. My dad said I was too thick to be a vet, as I wasn’t very academic – even if you failed almost everything at school but got enough qualifications, you could get into catering college. And that was it, from the age of about nine or ten years old, I wanted to be chef.
Has anyone particularly inspired you in your culinary career? There are several people; Michel Roux inspires me probably more than anybody. He’s a legend, an absolute legend. What he’s achieved in his life, you can’t help but be in awe. Whatever your job is, hopefully there’s always somebody that you aspire to, and for me that’s probably him. But there are others, Ken Allanson – he was my lecturer at college, and Pierre Chevillard, who was head chef at Chewton Glen.
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PICNIC IN STYLE
A suitably luxurious location, thrilling entertainment, high-end accessories and delectable produce are essential accompaniments to a British picnic. Kathryn McCann presents your absolute must-haves for outside dining during the summer season.
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A treasured experience
Why not pay a visit to one of The Treasure Houses of England, and immerse yourself in spectacular surroundings at one of the country’s grandest palaces, houses and estates. There are ten in total, including Blenheim Palace, Castle Howard and Holkham Hall. Each building is an architectural masterpiece, surrounded by beautiful parklands and gardens that are open to the public in return for a small fee. Experience some of England’s top outdoor theatre and classical music underneath the stars at Burghley, which showcases its 9th annual Battle Proms Concert on Saturday 6 July, offering an evening of soul stirring classical music. Indulge in some outdoor theatre with Lord Chamberlain’s men performing As You Like It on the 11 August, and Treasure Island on the 22 August at Hatfield House or take in classical favourites performed by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by John Rigby on the 13 July at Leeds castle. For more information visit treasurehouses.co.uk.
A fancy flutter The next big event after Royal Ascot for Ascot Racecourse is the Betfair Weekend (26-28 July) where afternoon tea, picnics and Pimm’s are order of the day. Set amongst the mature trees of the Crown Estate, Ascot’s beautiful lawns offer the perfect backdrop to a day of traditional English festivities and top class racing. On the Sunday guests will be treated to a family Fun Day with a quintessential British picnic themed affair. The Betfair Weekend comprises a competitive six-race card, including the John Guest Brown Jack Stakes. The race commemorates the racing legend, who won at no less than seven different Royal Meetings. Also on the card is the Listed Woodcote Stud Valiant Stakes. For more information on Ascot Racedays please visit ascot.co.uk.
A global performance
Location, location, location
For the ultimate operatic experience, a visit to the annual Glyndebourne festival is an event simply not to be missed. Lounge in the grounds of this very English institution and enjoy globally recognised opera. Al fresco dining is part of the tradition here, many choose to picnic in the garden, sprawling on rugs or sitting at tables and a traditional menu is available from Leith’s restaurant. Full eveningwear is essential here, reflecting the eccentricity, which is part of Glyndebourne’s charm. The 2013 festival runs until 25 August and further information is available at glyndebourne.com.
The great English countryside presents surroundings glorious enough to ensure that a few clouds can’t dampen your enjoyment.
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Cuisine fit for a king
High quality food and drink are the last essential piece of the luxury picnic puzzle. Whether you chose to purchase a hamper, or would rather buy your own ingredients to create that extravagant feast, you can ensure mouth-watering cuisine is on the menu with these foodie delights.
SNO™ ‘Nitrate free’ G4 Rated Glacier Water from Iceland SNO™ ‘Health in a bottle’; Iceland Glacier Water with zero nitrates. The Dietary Supplement News gives it it’s highest G4 rating and says SNO™ with Zero Nitrates may be one of the purest drinking waters on Earth. SNO is naturally filtered through layers of volcanic lava rock and does not come from the ground as a spring to pick up impurities, giving it its unique health attributes, natural balance and a crisp, clean taste. Available at Wholefoods and Tree of Life.
A right royal cheese Royal cheesemonger Paxton and Whitfield have released delicious ‘retro’ pots of British artisan cheese which are perfect for a summer picnic and come in two flavours – Cheddar Rarebit and Stilton with Tawny Port. The best way to eat these scrumptious pots is with crusty bread or some crackers, but they can also be enjoyed as a starter or a light lunch. £5.95/£6.50, Paxton and Whitfield
Award-winning fizz Picnic in style with this sparkling wine from the Gusbourne estate in Kent, which recently scooped a prestigious gold medal at the International Wine and Spirit competition (IWSC). The 2008 Brut Reserve has aromas of hazelnut and toast, with an underlying delicate redcurrant fruit and a hint of rose. At 12 percent it’s a light and refreshing wine to drink on a summer’s afternoon. £24.99, Harvey Nichols
A gourmet gala The Swangrove Picnic Gift Hamper represents the pinnacle of al fresco opulence and comes with beautiful plates, glasses and cutlery. The delightful delicacies include smoked duck, kiln-roasted salmon, piquant olives and tasty nuts, juicy jams, chutneys, marmalades and a selection of French and British cheeses from renowned producers including Godminster and Le Rustique. Wine disciples will revel in the selection of reds and whites on offer. There’s also champagne from Veuve Clicquot and a duo of fruity pressés from Bottle Green. £460, Regency Hampers
A different kind of cupcake
Godiva Chocolatiers have created the sumptuous strawberry dipping experience, whereby juicy strawberries, picked at the peak of ripeness, are coated with a delicious layer of dark fondant chocolate (Perles de choc noir 72%). For an extra level of indulgence, Godiva offers additional special toppings, including fresh coconut shavings, chocolate flakes, honey roasted almond pieces or speculoos, the famous Belgium biscuit. Available across all UK stores from June to September. £69 per kg, Godiva
With decadent cupcakes – the foodie fashion ‘must have’ at the moment – the English Cheesecake Company has got in on the act with these deliciously indulgent cheesecake cupcakes. Choose from a box of a single flavour or a combination of flavours including: Toffee Pecan, Chocolate Profiterole Smash, Sicilian Lemon and New York Baked Vanilla – there’s sure to be a flavour to suit every sweet tooth. £36, The English Cheesecake Company 72 seasons the master chefs
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Alfreso dining pas excellence The Gourmet Trotter Company present their range of luxury picnic hampers for those prestigious outdoor events. Innovatively providing a sophisticated solution to the heavy hamper by ingeniously gaining mobility from an inclusive golf trolley. It is beautifully equipped with china, linen napkins, glassware and cutlery for four people. £399, The Gourmet Trotter Company
Pret ty and practical This Newbury Picnic Blanket expertly meets the task of al fresco dining with its fun and playful designs, and functional materials. Comes with a cotton side for comfort and a reverse side made of oilcloth for practicality. A removable polyester insert means comfy sitting and easy cleaning, and with two cotton strings attached to tie the blanket together when rolled up, you’re all set to go! Available in three colours. £35, Urbanara
Enough horsing around This equestrian style silver tray is certainly one to admire. Beautifully made, simple and finished to perfection – definitely a picnic accessory that makes an impression. Made of shiny nickel with soft brown leather stirrup handles, simply exquisite! £209.95, DesResDesign
The king of the coolers A beautifully crafted cooler for either wine or champagne. Crafted from nickel and featuring exquisitely carved lion heads – the ultimate in luxurious style. Height: 21cms. £120, Black Orchid Interiors
Top of the range This 28-piece Aston Martin picnic hamper combines luxury and functionality to complement the lifestyle of its owner. The inspiration is the elegance, craftsmanship and engineering excellence built into every Aston Martin vehicle since 1913. The simple, yet enduring design ethos influences every piece within the hamper, from the sleek stainless steel cutlery set to the Irish damask linen table cloth, Scottish lamb’s wool rug and fine bone china plates. Available in blue, pillar-box red and tan. £2,750, Aston Martin
Products we love…
In order to achieve that perfect picnic, these luxury accessories are an absolute must.
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um i H a loin ac h p S a n d d w it h sal a n e y ho m in t a n d s in g s e r d
Encon S au s aga Ro l l s e
Do it yourself picnic recipes…
Serves 16 – 20 small / 6 – 8 large
Prep 20 mins Cook 10 mins Serves 4
30g/1oz butter 100g/31/2oz button mushrooms, finely chopped 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp Encona Hot Pepper Sauce 1 tbsp dried thyme 450g/1lb good quality sausage meat Salt and freshly ground black pepper 450g/1lb ready-rolled puff pastry 1 free-range egg, beaten
1 block of haloumi sliced 1 bag spinach 1 punnet tomatoes 1/2 red onion finely sliced Handful of mint leaves 1 tbsp Gourmet Garden Parsley 50ml honey 4 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp olive oil Cracked black pepper
Method Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.
© LEIGH SIMPSON; REGENCY HAMPERS LIMITED; 123RF
Melt the butter in a large frying pan and fry the mushrooms until soft. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the Worcestershire sauce, Encona Hot Pepper Sauce, thyme and sausage meat and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mix until thoroughly combined. Roll the puff pastry out into a large rectangle, then cut into two long rectangles. Place a layer of sausage meat mixture down the middle of each pastry rectangle, then brush each with beaten egg on one edge. Fold the other side of the pastry over onto the egg-washed edge. Press down to seal and trim any excess. Cut each pastry roll into 8-10 small sausage rolls. Brush with rest of egg-wash. (For an additional kick add a couple of drops of Encona Hot Pepper Sauce to the egg-wash.) Place the sausage rolls onto a baking tray and transfer to the oven to bake for 15-20 minutes, or until crisp and golden and the sausage meat is completely cooked through.
Preheat oven to 200 C, add oil to baking tray then place cherry tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Bake tomatoes for 20 minutes or until starting to get soft. Either fry haloumi strips or grill until golden brown. Place on plate with the spinach and onion. To make the dressing, whisk honey, chopped mint and Gourmet Garden Parsley in a small bowl. Whisk in vinegar, oil and cracked pepper. Test and adjust depending on flavour preference – sometimes we like a little extra honey! Toss spinach, haloumi and onions with the tomatoes and dressing.
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At home with
Mark Hix is a man on a mission. Seemingly untouched by the economic meltdown, this British chef and restaurateur has opened a grand total of seven restaurants in the last five years alongside launching a gallery and publishing a number of bestselling cookbooks on British cuisine.
reviously Chef Director at Caprice Holdings – the group behind The Ivy and Scott’s Mayfair – for 17 years, he now writes a monthly column in Esquire , and has a weekly slot in The Independent . It’s enough to make your head spin. But in true Hix style, nothing fazes the man himself. Kathryn McCann pinned him down for a chat about British cuisine, emerging restaurant trends and his enduring friendship with Damien Hirst. You are known for your love of British food, and all your restaurants are British themed. What would you say is so special about the food here? It’s about the ingredients really. Compared to ten years ago, we can get almost anything in this country. We are no longer limited to what we can get imported in from somewhere else. For example we have great chickens now, whereas before the best chicken was coming from France. We have great duck. We even have homegrown white asparagus widely available for the first time this year. It’s a great time for British food; everything is on our doorstep. Do you think this is a result of a cultural change? Yes, it’s a result of a change in how we cook in our restaurants and as a result of increased interest from the general public. They want to know where their food is coming
A lot of people said I must be mad. from. The menus in Hix restaurants are full of providences – if you read a dish on the menu, you know immediately what cut it is and where it comes from. Whether it’s a piece of asparagus or a piece of beef. I think the most important thing when you are writing a menu is to give the customer as much information as possible without it being too much. Some American menus can be four or five lines long!
You have opened seven critically acclaimed restaurants in the last five years – many would say this was a big risk, opening new restaurants in the midst of A recession… London is slightly different than anywhere else in the UK. In the city there are new restaurants opening all the time that you don’t even know about. On the first day I opened Hix Soho, the street outside was a building site. Now all the building work is finished, Jamie Oliver’s Diner is just around the corner, there’s a
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I don’t just go out and buy pictures there’s always a story behind the artwork I have in my restaurants. great Danish steakhouse (MASH) across the road – this is a good area to be in. Did you receive any dark predictions? A lot of people said I must be mad, but there are a few corners in London where business will always be good. This is why I opened restaurants in Mayfair and Soho. If you do decide to take risks, then its only rational to open in an area that’s always busy and full of tourists.
© IMAGES COURTESY OF THE HIDEOUT; DAMIEN HIRST 2012; DANNY ELWES
What piece of advice would you give to a young chef who is just starting out? Today there are a lot of chefs that climb the ladder very quickly without having the knowledge that an old kind of training could have provided. Young chefs today need to learn as much as they can while they are just starting out, so don’t look for a promotion too quickly. Make sure you are armed with all the knowledge you need before you start to climb the ladder. Why do you think there is a lack of classical training today? There are more and more restaurant openings, a shortage of staff, a shortage of knowledge, together with quite young chefs who are keen to climb the ladder. I also think that the quality of catering colleges is not as good as it was years ago and food training should begin at school. Schools should have food and cooking on the curriculum. Kids learn about a lot of stuff that isn’t going to be useful – we all eat food but don’t know anything about it! What qualities do you tend to look out for when hiring younger chefs? Common sense is crucial. Creativity as well, although this usually comes later. Above all it’s important that a
Above: The Damien Hirst centrepiece at Tramshed. Left: Diners can choose between chicken and steak.
person is willing to work hard and has common sense. You are a great lover of art, and have an impressive collection of British art in your restaurants, and in the Cock ‘n’ Bull gallery. Why do you think art and food make such a great combination? It doesn’t always! There’s plenty of bad art in restaurants. I don’t just go out and buy pictures, there’s always a story behind the artwork I have in my restaurants, usually it’s because I know the artist or I commissioned it especially for the restaurant. At the Cock ‘n’ Bull gallery, I have employed Rebecca Lidert to run it and curate on my behalf. We don’t tend to show established artists because they all have galleries of their own and don’t need the exposure. We showcase young emerging talent or show artists who are in between galleries.
Who’s your favourite artist? I haven’t got a favourite artist as such, but the works I’ve got in the restaurants by friends such as Mat Collishaw, Harland Miller and Damien Hirst are important to me. I know they enjoy coming to the restaurant and enjoy dining somewhere where they can see their work hanging on the wall. Do you have any plans to expand on your current restaurant portfolio? Yes, I want to open more chicken and steak restaurants, along the same line as Tramshed. I want to expand with more restaurants that follow this simple, minimalist concept, opening some in London, and in other UK cities like Brighton and Manchester. What emerging restaurant trends do you think we might see more of over the next few years? We have exhausted most of the trends. We will probably see more restaurants that are serving just one or two things.
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Cocktail Masterclass Bring HIX into your home with these exclusive cocktail recipes.
Bloody hot black cow
“I named this cocktail after the Princes – as in the food writer Rose and her husband Dominic who regularly bring me quinces from their Dorset home. This infusion lasts well and can be used for all sorts of drinks.“
“I don’t really want to mess around with classic drinks like a Bloody Mary, but sometimes a pre-dinner drink requires a lighter touch so you can fit the second one in! Isle of Wight tomatoes are a fantastic early season addition to our menus and their tomato juice really freshens up a mixed drink like this. How much heat you want in this drink is up to you so feel free to spice it up with more chillies and Tabasco.” Serves 4-6
150-250ml Black Cow Vodka 6 pickled guindillas (whole pickled chillies) A few drops of Tabasco (green or red) 400-500ml Isle of Wight tomato juice Ice cubes 4-6 ice spheres or cubed ice A couple of good pinches of sweet Spanish pimenton or paprika Method Line a fine strainer with muslin or use a jelly bag. Pour in the tomato juice and leave overnight to strain and extract a clear juice. Smash up two of the chillies (or more if you wish) with the vodka in a jug using the end of a rolling pin. Add the tabasco and strained tomato juice and mix well. Put the ice spheres into martini glasses and strain the liquid over the ice. Sprinkle with the pimenton and serve.
Serves 2 For the quince gin: 500g quinces, coarsely grated 1ltr gin 50g sugar
For the morning after…
Coffee Bean Heaven Martini A delectable cocktail suggestion brought to you by Elizabeth Powell, Coffee Bean Heaven www.coffeebeanshop.co.uk Serves 1 30ml Cariel vanilla vodka
20ml Kahlua coffee liqueur 15ml white cacao liqueur Single shot of espresso (‘Jamaican Blue Mountain’ coffee beans) Method Shake hard with ice to form a nice thick frothy top, dress with a cream swirl, a Kenyan peaberry and Nicaraguan elephant beans. Created by the Jake Alder, resident mixologist at the The Albert Cocktail bar, Whitstable Kent.
To serve: 150ml of the quince gin 150ml sugar syrup Juice of 1 lemon 1 egg white Method
Mix the quince, gin and sugar together and store in a sterilised airtight container such as a kilner jar for 3-4 weeks. Strain through a fine sieve and store in airtight bottles until required. To serve, half fill a cocktail shaker with ice, then add the quince gin, sugar syrup, lemon and egg white and shake vigorously for 10-15 seconds. Strain into tumblers or large stemmed glasses.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT: ARGENTINA
Viva Argentina Argentinaâ€™s rich culture, large and varied landscape, great sporting achievements and dramatic history mean this is a country that can boast of attractions to entertain even the most discerning visitor. By Kathryn McCann 80 seasons the master chefs
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Others prefer to chase down some sultry Argentine Tango – renowned as the world’s ultimate romantic dance – in the lively, bustling back streets of Buenos Aires. Sold? You should be. Let Seasons guide you through the best of what the world’s eighth largest country has to offer…
ome associate this grand nation with fast and furiously played football, others with its history of fearless female leaders – the former First Lady Eva Perón and current President Cristina Fernández. Visitors from all over the world come to sample the fine cuisine on offer including the famous Argentinian beef asado (roasted) from a parrilla (grill) restaurant, washed down with a bottle of Mendoza’s excellent wine.
The Argentine wine industry has long been among the largest outside Europe, and the country is the fifth most important wine producer in the world, with the annual per capita consumption of wine among the highest. The Mendoza region, an arid province that lies to the North East of the country, has numerous bodegas nestled in the shadows of the Andes and is at the heart of Argentinian wine making. It is most famous for its variety of Malbec grape, which although it has its origins in France, has found an ideal environment in the Province of Mendoza to successfully develop and become the world’s best Malbec wine. Mendoza accounts for 70% of the country’s total wine production, and provides many variations of ‘wine tourism’. Visitors also flock to Mendoza to experience the impressive landscape of the Cordillera de Los Andes and the highest peak in the Americas, Mount Aconcagua, at 6,960m (22,837 ft) high.
Top: The famous Argentinian beef Asado roasting on a parrilla. Middle: Mount Aconcaguaga. Bottom: Carlos Gardel painted on a colourful house front in Buenos Aires.
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asking around. A preferable period to visit is during harvesting in March and April, and if you chose to stay in the city, the famous winemaking regions of Luján de Cuyo and Maipú are a mere 100km away. These areas also produce Mendoza’s most famous varieties of Malbec as well as impressive Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots. Anoek Petit, Travel Consultant at Sunvil Traveller , explains why Argentina has become such a great wine country: “One
Many of the major bodegas (Norton, Rutini etc.) offer tours and wine tasting events are extremely common in the area. There are a large number of operators offering organised tours of the vineyards, but you can also do it independently – although if you are, it is advisable to book in advance as many bodegas only open for pre-arranged visits and close at weekends. You will find plenty of information in the culture section of local newspapers or by
of the main factors is the ideal conditions for grape growing in the area – dry, keeping it from many of the diseases found in other wine regions, differences in altitude due to being close to the Andes, which makes for more solar radiation through a cool temperature, and taking advantage of the Andean runoff for irrigation. These ideal conditions allow Argentinian wines to be of a high quality.” Although your plan may be to
24 hours in Mendoza…
Mendoza is recognised worldwide as ‘wine country’, so you cannot possibly visit the region without making a trip to the famous vineyards outside the city. Malbec Symphony Wine Tours provide interesting and educational wine tours, directed by sommelier Julian Dlouhy and his knowledgeable staff. Options include learning about traditional irrigation systems in Luján de Cuyo, visiting the Rutini Winery museum in Maipú or meeting organic wine producers, taking cooking classes and horseback riding through the vineyards in the Valle de Uco. www.malbecsymphony.com
A trip to Mendoza wouldn’t be complete without sampling
food cooked by the city’s most famous chef, Francis Mallmann. His flagship Restaurante 1884 is considered to be one of Argentina’s top dining establishments and was recently voted the 7th best restaurant in the world. The Spanish style building inside the Bodega Escorihuela uses an array of different cast-iron grills, such as the parilla, a barbeque grill, or a plancha, a cast-iron griddle. 1884 uses a wood-fired oven in the winery’s courtyard to prepare roasted meats and empanadas. Mallmann changes the menu every two weeks and prepares dishes with matching wine selections. www.1884restaurante.com.ar
Rest your weary head at the Park Hyatt Mendoza Hotel, Casino and Spa. This prestigious luxury hotel has a beautifully restored 19th century Spanish colonial façade and is conveniently situated in the heart of Mendoza, looking onto Plaza Independencia and
offering stunning views of the Andes mountain range. The hotel is ideally located a mere 20 minutes away from Mendoza International airport, and is also close to the most important vineyards and wineries of the region. Park Hyatt offers a wide range of activities including Mendoza wine tours, a premier casino and luxury spa services at Kaua Club and Spa. www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com
If time is tight, stay in the city and sample hundreds of Argentinian wine at Vines of Mendoza . The tasting room features about 100 producers and is the only spot where you can try so many different types in one place. The servers are multilingual, well-trained and knowledgeable. Sample a flight of malbecs, Mendoza’s most famous grape, for 75 pesos or experience some of the other regional varietals including torrontés, merlot, bonarda and a couple of the blends. Tours and barbecues to the Valle de Uco can also be arranged here. www.vinesofmendoza.com
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get lost in the sprawling vineyards or to tackle the daunting Mount Aconcagua, ensure you also make time to explore the city itself – to miss this would be a mistake. For starters, Mendoza city far exceeds expectations of what to expect from a municipal with a location in the middle of a desert. This lively, bustling city is bursting with greenery and impressive fountains thanks to the acequias (irrigation ditches) that run beside every main road. There are plenty of sprawling piazzas, five in total, lined with cosmopolitan cafés and bars
serving a mixture of cocktails and empanadas to satisfy every palette. Take time to sample all the staples of Argentinian culture – drink Malbec from Maipú, enjoy grilled Argentine meat and try the tango – but remember the party doesn’t start until late!
All hail Buenos Aires No doubt your trip to Argentina will include its magnificent capital city, Buenos Aires – the cultural and historic centre of the country. Anoek agrees: “Buenos Aires is very
elegant, with a lot of green space for such a metropolitan city. It is home to the Pink House (the Argentinian version of the White House), the tango, galleries and designer shops, colonial architecture and the brightly coloured houses of the La Boca neighbourhood.” Most of Argentina’s activity is concentrated in this single city, which boasts a wide range of nightlife, restaurants and pubs to ensure you will be completely spoilt for choice. There are three million inhabitants and 48 districts called barrios (neighbourhoods).
Explore the city… stores, fashionable boutiques and the best restaurants in the city. Magnificent architecture, impeccable service and European elegance combined with cutting edge technology, ensure The Alvear Palace keeps its place as one of the world’s best hotels. www.alvearpalace.com For the last 27 years, the Rodizio restaurants have been THE place to go if you want to eat the world famous argentine asado. The three branches in Buenos Aires are distinguished by the high levels of cuisine and a unique cooking system. Splurge on the highest quality steak available in the city, which is served in ‘swords’. www.rodizio.com.ar
The Alvear Palace Hotel , Buenos Aires, is said to be the most luxurious hotel in South America. Located in the affluent barrio of La Recoleta, it is surrounded by antique
Tango, as the national dance of Argentina, can be found all over the city. However Tango is best experienced not in La Boca and on Calle Florida, but in the Milongas. A Milonga is both a place where a Tango dance will take place, as well as a specific type of the dance. Expect the party to start late – Milongas
officially begin at 11pm, but don’t usually fill up until 1.30am and can go on until five or six in the morning. Some Milongas to note are: Salon Canning, El Beso and Porteno y Bailarin. These are frequented by milongueros –expert tango dancers looking for a partner, and can be found on the free distribution guide ‘TangoMap’ along with the location and times of all the milongas in the city. The guide is edited by Caserón Porteño, a Tango Guest House in Buenos Aires. www.caseronporteno.com
If you want to quench your thirst after a heavy Tango session, look no further than the Gran Bar Danzón. The vast wine and cocktail list is enough to keep visitors amused for hours and the food is delicious. Try a Hemingway Daiquiri, a Jagermeister Mojito, or a Classic Long Island Ice Tea. www.granbardanzon.com.ar
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Vicente López 3
Some of the most famous barrios are: 1 Microcentro – The buzzing downtown district of the city, near to the main historical and shopping spots. Florida Street is a famous pedestrian street in this part of the city and Galerias Pacifico on Avenida Cordoba is an upscale shopping mall. 2 La Boca – Buenos Aires’ most colourful neighbourhood, which still retains a strong European flavour, with many residents of mixed European descent. A favourite with tourists due to its rich history and vibrant red, blue, yellow, purple and green buildings. 3 Recoleta – Recoleta is an affluent
district of the city, and an area of great historical and architectural interest. It is also a distinctive
gastronomic area, with numerous first class restaurants. The famous Cementerio de la Recoleta, where all the rich families of Buenos Aires are buried, is well worth a visit for the ornate tombs. The cemetery is also the last resting place of Eva Perón. 4 Boedo – One cannot visit Buenos Aires without experiencing Argentine Tango, the country’s national dance. The barrio of Boedo is one of the main Tango and historical spots in the city. It’s traditionally a working class district which is known for its influence in tango culture and its numerous cafes which were important meeting places for the country’s famous writers and musicians. 5 Puerto Madero – The antique
port of Buenos Aires has been
renewed and now contains a mixture of high-end restaurants and luxury hotels. This area has some great architectural scenery and is a great place for a long walk. If you are looking for some greenery, look no further – Reserve Ecologica Castenera Sur is an expansive park and wildlife reserve popular with hikers, joggers and bird watchers. Take to the water and travel to Uruguay and other destinations from the Buquebus ferry terminal at Darsena Norte.
Top: The colourful La Boca neighbourhood. Bottom (L-R): Map of the most famous barrios in Buenos Aires; Iguazu Falls; The Pink House – La Casa Rosada.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT: ARGENTINA
© SUNVIL TRAVELLER
What else does Argentina have to offer?
If you have given yourself enough time to properly explore, other highlights include: the Iguazu Falls, Argeninian Estancias, the Lake District, Peninsula Valdes, El Calafate and Ushuaia. Anoek urges travellers to pay a visit to the Iguazu falls in particular: “This is one of the world’s most amazing waterfalls and is twice the size of Niagara. The 275 falls thunder down from a height of 82 metres and stretch for more than one and a half miles. The falls can be viewed from both the Argentinian and Brazilian sides.” The Argentinian estancias range from traditional cattle ranches, farms and plantations, to elegant villas and country houses. The majority are located in the pampas, a vast area of land stretching inland from Buenos Aires for hundreds of miles. In the Lake District you can experience great tranquility among the glacial lakes, snow-capped mountains and dense Northern Patagonian forests (home to four National Parks). An area of exquisite natural beauty stretching along 30 crystal lakes that vary between aquamarine blue and emerald green, with a backcloth of majestic extinct volcanoes traversed by silent forests, it offers a magical way to enter a pristine, timeless environment. If you want to get up close and personal with wildlife, Anoek recommends Peninsula Valdes: “This is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most significant marine reserves on the planet. Large colonies of Magellan penguins can be observed at close quarters from September to March. Between June and December, daily whale-watching boat trips take place, and between August and April, sea lions and elephant seals may be seen. Bird life is abundant with plenty of eagles, owls and lesser rheas. Guanacos scatter this wild territory.” The town of El Calafate is the base for exploring Los Glaciares National Park and the monumental glacier
other highlights include: the iguazu falls, argentinian estancias, peninsula valdes, el calafate and ushuaia. of Perito Moreno. This glacier has a surface of 257 square kilometers and stands a towering 50-70 metres high, while reaching a depth of 137 metres. There are many platforms and trails from where you can view the glacier and hear the ice cracking
continuously. Ushuaia is the world’s southern most city. With elements of a frontier town with an indigenous heritage, it has increasingly adapted to its modern position as a focal point for the exploration of the subpolar region. Apart from cruises to Antarctica, you may explore a cruise along the Beagle Channel or to Punta Arenas in Chile.
For more information on Argentina, contact Sunvil Traveller, www.sunvil.co.uk, or Tel: 020 8748 4774
Left: Wine tasting in the Province of Mendoza. Below: La Plaza Fuerza Aerea Argentina, Buenos Aires.
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Tour de Wine A hundred years in the spotlight The world famous Tour de France is usually associated with bikes, yellow jerseys and Bradley Wiggins. But the race also passes through some of Europe’s best vineyards and prime wine country. Seasons Magazine guides you through the top spots. By Kathryn McCann
he year 2013 sees the 100th anniversary of the world famous Tour de France, which, for the first time in ten years, will remain entirely within the country’s borders. The race began on Corsica, also known as ‘The Isle of Beauty’ on 29 June and for three weeks, the Tour, its riders; support staff, spectators and viewers will cover a total distance of 3,360-km. This distance encompasses seven flat stages, five hilly stages, six mountain stages (with four summit finishes), two individual time trial stages, and one team time trial stage – finishing at dusk in France’s capital city. The race passes through many UNESCO World Heritage listed sites, including the Corsican Calanques de Piana, the gardens of the Château de Versailles, the Albi Cathedral and the historical centre of Lyon. France is the world’s largest wine producer, so it is fitting that the race will also travel through several of the world’s biggest and best wine regions and appellations. Top wine spots include Provenance, which has a rich history of winemaking, and LanguedocRoussillon, which is the single biggest wine-producing region.
Corsica: The Isle of Beauty
To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Tour de France, the island of Corsica hosted the start of the race; a first in its history, and a surefire way to ensure that the year is a memorable one. The Island of Beauty
[Montpellier] is the single biggest wine-producing region in the world, responsible for more than a third of France‘s total wine production. was the only region of France that had yet to be crossed by the race but this year it hosted the ‘Grand Départ’, as well as the first stages of the race in the cities of Porto-Vecchio, Bastia, Ajaccio and Calvi. Corsican wines remain a closely guarded secret, however the island boasts an impressive range of original grape varieties. One of the most important grapes on the island is Nielluccio, a variety thought to be a close cousin of Tuscany’s Sangiovese. The principal white variety is Vermentino, which is also called Malvoisie, and Sciacarello is a red unique to the island. The largest private vineyard owner on Corsica is the Skalli family, with the 220ha Terra Vecchia vineyards on the eastern coast below Bastia. Famous blends include the Nielluccio-Merlot and the Chardonnay-Vermentino. Grenache, Cinsaut, Carignan and Pieds-Noirs also continue to feature in the island’s appellations. In 1968, Patrimonio was established as Corsica’s first Appellation (or Appellation d’origine contrôlée) and today the island has a total of
Wine fa c
t The Fre nch em p eror Napole on Bon aparte was bo rn to a Corsic an win emakin g family in Ajaccio .
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nine AOC regions, including the island-wide designation Vin de Corse. However, the island itself is very mountainous and most of the vineyards are located in coastal areas. The majority of the wine exported from Corsica falls under the Vin de pays designation, Vin de Pays de l’Île de Beauté, which translates as: ‘country wine from the Island of Beauty’ – an apt title.
Nice and Marseille The next stops on the 2013 Tour were the cities of Nice and Marseille in the South east of France. These two cities belong to the French wineproducing region of Provence, the warmest wine region of the country. It’s close to the Mediterranean and produces mainly rosé and red wine. However the AOC region of Cassis, in Provenance, does specialise in white wine production. This region has a rich history of winemaking, with wines made in this region for at least 2,600 years. The main grape variety is Mourvèdre, however Provence makes over 1,000 kinds of wines, often blended with Grenache and Cinsault, Braquet, Calitor, Folle
and Tibouren. The major white wine grapes of Provence include the Rhône varieties of Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache blanc, Marsanne and Viognier, as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Semillon Rolle and Ugni blanc. The best vineyards in the Provence region include the Château de Beaucastel, owned by the Perrin brothers, which grows all 13 varieties of grape allowed in the Châteauneufdu-Pape appellation. The Domaine de Fontavin, set six miles north of Carpentras is also worth a visit. This vineyard is one of the leading producers of the heady, sweet desert wine Muscat des Beaumes de Venise.
Montpellier is the capital of the Languedoc-Roussillon winemaking region in southern France. This region is dominated by 740,300 acres of vineyards, and has been an important winemaking centre for several centuries. It is the single biggest wine-producing region in the world, responsible for more than a third of France’s total wine production. As a result of the sheer size of this region, it produces most of France’s cheap bulk wines. Languedoc-Roussillon is a major contributor to Europe’s wine lake – the continuing surplus of wine
Wine fa c
t Langue docRoussil lon is t he single bigges t wine-p roduc ing region in the world . in the European Union. The region is home to numerous varieties, including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Traditional Rhône grapes include Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Voignier. Roussanne, Vermintino, Grenache blanc and Maccabéo are just some of the varieties that can be found here. Fitou is one of the oldest vineyards in LanguedocRoussillon, most of these grapes are red and produce a dark, fleshy red wine.
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The Loire Valley
The mid-way point of the Tour brings competitiors through the Loire Valley. This is quite a large region, and is often split into three different parts. The Upper Loire includes the Sauvignon Blanc dominated areas of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and the Middle Loire is dominated by Chenin blanc and Cabernet franc wines which are found in the regions around Touraine and Vouvray. Wines of the Melon de Bourgogne grape dominate the Lower Loire. Historically, the vineyards of the Loire Valley were small, family owned operations, however the 1990s saw a sharp rise in co-operatives, and now around half of the wines in the Sancerre area are bottled by either co-operatives or wine merchants.
The Rhône wine region is in Southern France, and is the second largest French AOC region in terms of surface area and production. It consists of two smaller regions – Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône. The northern region tends to produce red wines from the Syrah
grape, and white wines from the Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier grapes. Southern Rhône specialises in producing an array of red, white and rosé wines, often blended into the renowned Châteauneuf-duPape, a mixture of several grapes. The regional temperature variations affect the type of wines grown – the northern Rhône is characterised by a climate with harsh winters but warm summers. Syrah or Shiraz, is the only red grape variety permitted in red AOC wines for this region, it is very popular with consumers and can be used exclusively, whereas other reds must be blended together with the white wine grapes. The south of the region has a more Mediterranean climate with milder winters and hot summers, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape produced in this region can contain up to 19 varieties of wine grapes (ten red and nine white). Many private wineries also produce wines of their own creation which include sparkling and fortified wines and single varietals from the Syrah grape.
The last stages of the Tour de France 2013, before its finish in Paris, are the most gruelling of all. Competitors race through the mountainous regions of Gap, Alpe-d’Huez, Bourg d’Oisans and Le Grand-Bornand. This route travels through the Savoie wine region in the far east of France. The geography of this region has defined the character of the wines here – fresh, crisp and white. The
act The Ch âteaun eufdu-Pap e prod uced in the R hône w ine region can co ntain up to 19 varietie s of wine g rapes (t en red and nin e white ). Above (L-R): Saint- Jean-d’Aulps in the Haute-Savoie department; Wine cellar in the Loire Valley.
region’s wine labels usually bear a white cross on a red background, the flag of both Switzerland and Savoie. Most of the region’s wines (around three quarters) are whites due to the cooler climate. Jacquere is the most widely planted white grape, although Altesse or Roussette produces Savoie’s finer wines, specifically under its own Roussette de Savoie and Rossette de Bugey appellations. The standout red wine in this region is Mondeuse, which produces deep coloured, peppery wines that can be quite bitter. Vineyards are located on the steep, sub-alpine slopes of the Combe de Savoie valley – around the villages of Arbin, Montmelian, Chignin, Apremont and Cruet. However unfortunately, as a result of its isolated location and the phylloxera crisis of the 1870s, very little Savoie wine actually makes it onto the international markets.
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Five minutes with Alfons Schuhbeck
We talk summer cuisine with this top German chef.
Rasberry Slices (Himbeerschnit ten) Serves 4
© THOMAS EFFINGER
ummer offers a richness of flavours. The variety of fruits and vegetables reflect the fullness of the season – everything becomes ripe and life is colourful, juicy and sumptuous. Now is the ideal season for eating outside – take advantage where you can. Be more adventurous. You can’t go wrong, most people believe food tastes better when eaten outside. There are so many options for outside dining – eat on the balcony, terrace, while away a few hours outside or take the whole evening. Indulge in a summer festival or treat yourself to a summer holiday in warmer climes. Healthy summer cuisine is light and well-flavoured. Vegetables, if done properly, can add variation and excitement to a boring dish. Even adding one rosemary twig will vitalise, orange or lemon zest gives an elegant freshness and a bit of garlic will spice up any recipe. As we tend to drink a lot in the summer, and for those who are bored of drinking water during the day, I recommend switching to icetea or herbal tea. Make your ice-tea glass look more appealing by adding fresh fruit, just like a real cocktail.”
Short Pastry Base 90g Soft butter 40g Icing sugar Paste of 1/2 vanilla bean Zest of 1/2 lemon Salt 1 Egg yolk 125g Flour
For be st result s Seas ons recom mends Nethe rend Fa rm But te r.
Mascarpone Cream 1 Egg yolk
30g Icing sugar 125g Mascarpone 50g Cream 1g Egg white Completion of the slices Black pepper from the pepper mill 1 Bowl of big raspberries 1-2 TBSP raspberry puree, sugared
Method 1. For the short pastry base knead all ingredients into a smooth soft pastry dough, wrap in cling film and let it rest for two hours in the fridge.
2. Put half of the dough on a floured worktop and roll until it’s a thin plate; cut out four rectangles with ca. 3x8cm. Put it in the pre-heated oven, and heat on 175 o C for 12 minutes until the dough is golden-brown. 3. Beat the egg yolk and icing sugar in a bowl for a few seconds, until thoroughly mixed. Beat in the mascarpone until you have a custardcoloured cream. With a clean whisk, beat the egg white in a clean bowl until it stands in stiff peaks, and then fold into the creamed mascarpone mixture. 4. Shortly before serving, gently mix the raspberries with the raspberry puree. Spread some cream on the short pastry base, add a bit of black pepper and put the raspberries on top.
RECOMMENDATION Feiler-ARTINGER RUSTER AUSBRUCH 2008
This wine is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Blanc. A bright golden yellow, the Ruster Ausbruch is a beautiful bouquet of honey, mellow stone fruits and orange zest. Thick and very complex, with a fine acidity on the palate and a very long finish. Ideal for deserts and raw milk cheeses.
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ST JAMES’S STREET
St James’s Street St James’s Street stands proudly as a bastion of the capitals ability to seamlessly merge style, pleasure and history as one.
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ld and new London exist together in perfect harmony – long established masters of craft and traditional English gentleman’s clubs sit comfortably alongside bars and restaurants providing local Londoners with a taste of something more exotic. Seasons brings you the highlights from one of central London’s grandest streets.
1 The Wolseley 160 Piccadilly
A short stroll from St James’s Street will take you to the doors of The Wolseley – a café-restaurant that brings a taste of the grander European tradition to the streets of London. The Venetian and Florentine influences can be seen in the towering pillars, arches and stairways that adorn a building originally designed to be a prestigious car showroom. Now diners are more likely to find an eclectic lunch and dinner menu encompassing a feast of European classics. The Wolseley offers a choice of breakfast, morning coffee, afternoon tea and all-day food in the surroundings of its spectacular listed interior.
Sake no Hana
28 St. James’s Street Sake no Hana offers modern authentic Japanese dining in the heart of London’s Mayfair. Executive Chef Daisuke Hayashi, a protégé of Yoshihiro Murata – Japan’s highly respected Michelinstarred chef and world-renowned authority on Japanese cuisine – oversees the kitchen. À la carte menus provide a variety of hot and cold appetizers, charcoal grill, Toban and Kamameshi dishes, while sushi and sashimi are prepared to order at the sushi bar. ly A carefullydil selected list of sakes, a c Japanese Pic whiskeys, wines, spirits and liqueurs complement the dishes served in the restaurant.
Stern Pissarro Gallery
66 St. James’s Street Established in 1963 by Meir Stern, the Stern Pissaro Gallery moved from the Notting Hill area in 2009 to St. James’s – the heart of London’s art establishment. It focuses on English and European oil paintings, mainly from the second half of the 19th century, as well as a very active 20th century department covering a wide range of movements including Post-Impressionist, School of Paris, East European y and Modern dill British. Featured a c artists iinclude Pablo Picasso and Pc Max Liebermann.
5 3 Dukes London
St. James’s Place Dukes London is a hidden gem in the heart of St. James Mayfair, where quintessential British Charm and the finest luxury mix together to create a timeless atmosphere. Restaurant Thirty Six offers refined, British cuisine by Nigel Mendham, and the legendary bar is internationally renowned for its famous martinis and personalised cocktails. Visitors to Dukes bar would be advised to keep an eye out for James Bond author y Ian Fleming. dill The bar is rumored a c to be the inspiration for the line, Pic not stirred.’ ‘shaken,
John Lobb Bootmaker
9 St. James’s Street John Lobb is one of the greatest shoemaking companies in the world and upon entering the St James’s Street store; you will definitely find yourself among good company. This bootmaker has served everyone from wellheeled kings, to actors, singers, politicians and business moguls. Described as ‘the most beautiful shop in the world’ by Esquire magazine, the firm today proudly holds two Royal Warrants to His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh and His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales.
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ST JAMES’S STREET
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8 Wheeler’s of St James’s
72-73 St. James’s Street
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From the modern to the traditional, Wheeler’s of St James’s is the world’s oldest and finest fish restaurant in the heart of London. Marco Pierre White and Sir Rocco Forte have reworked, updated and improved the classic seafood recipes of the original Wheeler’s brand, which has been in the capital since 1856. Head chef Matt Brown, who has an impressive history ranging from the Savoy, L’Escargot and The Grosvenor House Hotel in Dubai, has revamped the menu to include traditional dishes such as gravalax, fish pie and oysters, as well as a few meat options.
Lock & Co. Hatters 6 St. James’s Street
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7 Berry Bros and Rudd
3 St. James’s Street
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Berry Bros and Rudd is Britain’s oldest wine and spirit merchant, with cellars beneath the shop virtually unchanged since it was built in the 17th century. They were enlarged in the 1730s and it is believed that at that time they were linked by a door to St James’s Palace. Louis Napoleon, later to become Emperor Napoleon III of France, famously plotted his return to the country from these cellars during his exile in the 1840s. The wine and spirit merchant sells a diverse range of more than 4,000 wines and spirits.
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Established in 1676, James Lock & Co. Ltd. is the oldest hat shop in the world, as well as being one of the oldest family owned businesses still in existence. Sir Winston Churchill, Charles Chaplin, Sir Anthony Eden and Admiral Lord Nelson have all purchased various pieces of headwear from the store, which provides its customers with a wide selection to ensure they get through each season in style. With traditional and functional products sitting alongside more fashionable and current trend-led pieces – you are sure to find a hat that can cater to your every whim.
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Seasons Loves From the latest gourmet products to delicious delicacies, indulge in just a few of our favourite things.
Tea experts Newby of London bring quality and convenience together in their Pyramid Infuser Range. The finest and most flavoursome looseleaf teas and herbal infusions are housed in spacious silky pyramid bags and are individually wrapped for freshness. The award-winning range has something for every mood and occasion, from floral Himalayan Kan- Junga to sensual Jasmine Princess.
Perfecting pasta since 1886, De Cecco continue to maintain their Italian tradition, untouched from mill to table. Using a coarse grain semolina flour which is then milled and kneaded with the purest cold water, De Cecco pasta is bronze drawn, slowly dried and always ‘al dente’.
Keeping With Tradition
Fire Up The Flavour with Encona!
With more and more people looking for exciting condiments to spice up their meal times, Encona Sauces (£1.39-1.99) are the ideal addition to any cupboard. Inspired by recipes from around the world, these versatile sauces can be used for a wide range of occasions; whether it’s an ingredient for cooking, a marinade before grilling, a pour over on the BBQ, or simply as a delicious table sauce for all your favourite foods. Try them drizzled over rice dishes or stir-fries, stirred into soups, mixed with mayonnaise to make a delicious spicy dip or added to pasta sauces to give them an exciting kick! www.enconasauces.co.uk
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A Chocolatey First
Taking inspiration from the legendary Nordic gods of old, Highland Park Loki whisky is the second in The Valhalla Collection of four unique whiskies from the award-winning brand. Interestingly, the 15-year-old limited edition single malt, bottled at 48.7% abv, comes housed in the same unique wooden frame as Thor, echoing the fearsome contours of a traditional Viking long ship.
Eight years ago at Valrhona’s Ecole du Grand Chocolat, Frédéric Bau forgot some Ivoire chocolate in a bain-marie as he prepared to demonstrate a recipe. Ten hours later the white chocolate had become blond, a colour he had never seen. He had just accidentally invented Dulcey: the world’s first blond chocolate boasting toasty notes and a pinch of salt sure to tantalise your taste buds.
Coffee lovers, rejoice! Get your hands on some of the greatest Peruvian coffee you will ever taste. Collected from the finest growing regions located between Villa Rica and Oxapampa, these Yanesha Coffee beans boast a slight nutty aftertaste with full-bodied richness of both chocolate and berry. www.coffeebeanshop.co.uk
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In this fast-moving, modern world, the value of something is often judged by how quickly we can get our hands on it. Business, transport and technology rely on abiding by this rule of thumb. However, the movement of those going against the grain is growing, and the Slow Food Alliance is at the fore.
Above and right: The endangered Badger Face Welsh Mountain Sheep and Medlar are just two of the six ‘forgotten foods’ recently added to Slow Food Alliance’s Ark of Taste list.
n our junk filled modern diet, Slow Food is a voice of calm reason and quality – working to promote the greater enjoyment of food through a better understanding of its taste, provenance and production. Born in Italy in 1989, the organisation has gone global with thousands of members and supporters from 150 countries internationally. The aim of the non-profit Slow Food Alliance is to bring food back to basics, and reconnect people with where their food comes from and how it is produced. It’s hoped this will encourage people to choose nutritious food, from sustainable local sources instead of binging on unhealthy, convenience-driven meals.
It is fitting that Slow Food’s home country is Italy – the country that celebrates good food, an enjoyment of eating and a slower pace of life.
Food activist Carlo Petrini, who boasts many achievements in the food industry, founded the alliance. He is responsible for Terra Madre, a groundbreaking meeting of 5000 food producers from all over the world, which is held in Turin, Italy, every two years and aims to promote mutual co-operation throughout
farming communities. Petrini, who was also behind the creation of the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences, is the author of several books and contributes regularly to varying newspapers and publications. This all makes him a formidable expert in the field of good food, and its relation to sustainability and
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environmental issues. It is no wonder then that in 2004 he was named a European hero by Time magazine and in 2008 he was the only Italian to appear in the Guardian’s list of ‘50 People Who could Save the World’. Slow Food UK reaps the benefits of having friends in high places through its Chef Alliance. Many of the top British based chefs actively support the cause by championing small-scale producers and working within their local communities to promote good quality local and sustainably produced food. They also create special Slow Food menus in their Michelin starred restaurants. Angela Hartnett, Mark Hix, Michel Roux Jr., and Tom Aikens are just some of the chefs involved. There are currently 83 leading chefs in England, Scotland and Wales who are members of the Chef Alliance. Wellknown commercial partners including Neal’s Yard Remedies, Lavazza coffee and Highland Park whisky also support the charity.
Slow Food Week 2013
As a result of all this support, early
The aim of the non-profit Slow Food Alliance is to bring food back to basics, and reconnect people with where their food comes from and how it is produced. June (1 – 9) of this year saw the biggest Slow Food Week yet, the theme of which was ‘leftovers’ dinner parties. The idea was to host a ‘leftovers’ dinner party, and charge your friends and family – then donate this amount to the Slow Food UK charity. This idea fulfills the alliance’s aim towards promoting sustainable food and raising awareness of national food waste. “It is estimated that half the national food waste comes from our homes. If we can encourage people to use their culinary creativity and
Above: Cornish Saffron Cake, another ‘forgotten food’.
initiative to entertain with food that may have been thrown away for no good reason, we hope we can start to change these habits,” said Prue Leith OBE, a Slow Food UK Board Member. Another important aspect of Slow Food Week was showcasing six ‘forgotten foods’ from Britain by adding these to the organisation’s Ark of Taste, which champions artisan food producers, traditional preparation methods and ‘endangered’ foods. Badger Face Welsh Mountain Sheep, Cornish Saffron Cake, British Lop Pig, Sea Lavender Honey, Goosnargh Cake and Medlar have all been added to the list, bringing the grand total to 61 foods. It is hoped that this promotion will revive these foods and raise awareness about them so they may be rediscovered and returned to the market through top UK restaurants including Corrigan’s Mayfair, Murano, Pizarro, the Cumberland Bar and Newman Street Tavern.
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